JAVA & BALI. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Java & Bali

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Java & Bali JAVA & BALI Saturday 18th September Sunday 3rd October 2010 (16 days) Leader: Craig Robson Group Size Limit: 9 Java and Bali are the smallest and southeasternmost of the Greater Sunda islands, biologically one of the richest and most complex regions on earth. Both are lands of great beauty, dominated by their mountainous interiors, where high peaks and smoking volcanoes are flanked by forests and fertile terraced fields that trip down the slopes like giant steps. The birds here have more in common with those of mainland South-East Asia than with those of eastern Indonesia, beyond Wallace s Line, which have shared affinities with the Australasian avifauna. Boasting over 300 species, of which 35 are strictly endemic and many others endemic to the Greater Sundas as a whole, Java and Bali offer a birding and cultural experience not to be missed. Java, with its population of around 100 million, plays a central role in Indonesia s economy and culture. Besides Javan Hawk-Eagle (Nik Borrow) being the geographical and political hub of the country, and hosting Indonesia s three largest cities, many of Indonesia s most significant historical developments took place here, including the struggle for independence. The peoples of both islands are Malay in origin, but the Muslim faith of the Javanese is in stark contrast to the Hindu beliefs of the adjacent Balinese. Bali s geographical location and the tides of history have served to isolate it from the Hindu mainstream in the Indian subcontinent, but this very isolation has been responsible for the extraordinary vitality of its culture. From the wonderful costumes and dances to the incredible number of temples (in some districts there seem to be more temples than houses!), Bali and its friendly people constantly fascinate and delight the traveller. Our journey begins in Jakarta, where we will look for such specialities as Sunda Coucal, and from there we travel inland to National Park, named after the sister volcanoes Gede and Pangrango which tower to over 3000m and which are still active to this day. With its hot springs, spectacular waterfalls, billowing plumes of sulphurous gases and beautiful moss-encrusted montane forest, this amazing national park holds nearly all of Java s endemic birds, including Javan Hawk-Eagle, Chestnut-bellied Partridge, Javan Trogon, Orange-fronted and Brown-throated Barbets, Javan Whistling Thrush, Javan Tesia, Crescent-chested Babbler, Javan Fulvetta, Rufous-tailed Fantail, Pygmy Tit, Javan Grey-throated White-eye and the exquisite White-flanked Sunbird. Next we travel to the more remote Gunung Halimun National Park, the largest tract of true rain forest on Java, and the only place where we can go birding in intact lowland rain forest. Based at a comfortable research station inside the forest, we will search for the many specialities of this beautiful and little-known protected area, which include Sumatran Green-Pigeon, White-breasted Babbler, Spotted Crocias, Whitebellied Fantail, and Javan Sunbird, as well as one of Java s few healthy populations of the endangered Javan Gibbon. As something of a contrast, our last birding in west Java will involve a boat trip to Pulau Rambut, a small island in the Java Sea off Jakarta, where we hope to find the declining Milky Stork as well as other coastal species like Christmas Frigatebird and Pied Imperial Pigeon. Leaving Java, we come to the emerald isle of Bali where we will search for the beautiful but sadly extremely endangered Bali Myna, as well as Javan Plover, Javan Kingfisher and the endangered Black-winged Starling. During the final part of our journey we will take the ferry across the narrow Bali Strait to east Java, where we will begin with a visit to Baluran National Park. Here, with the extinct Baluran volcano looming over us, we will explore the dry savanna and open woodland which, with its several species of large grazing mammals, seems strangely out of place on this tropical Asian island. Highlights here include the magnificent but endangered Green Peafowl, Green Junglefowl and the rather less dramatic Grey-cheeked Tit- Babbler. From Baluran we will travel a short distance to the south-west, and spend a couple of days exploring the wonderful forests flanking the eastern slope of the Ijen Plateau, famed for its sulphur production. Here we will be looking for the highly distinctive Whitefaced Partridge, which is only found in east Java, along with the beautiful Pink-headed Fruit-Dove, Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot and Blackbanded Barbet. Birdquest has operated tours to Java and Bali since 1984.

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Java & Bali Itinerary Day 1 Midday flight from London bound for Jakarta. Day 2 Morning arrival at Jakarta for an overnight stay. In the afternoon we will visit a small and diminishing wetland reserve on the outskirts of Jakarta. Amongst the scrub, swamp, mangroves and open pools we shall look for a number of interesting species. High on our most wanted list will be the rare and endangered endemic Sunda Coucal, which can sometimes be found lurking in the undergrowth. Other species we may well encounter include Little Black Cormorant, Oriental Darter, Javan Pond, Black-crowned Night and Purple Herons, Little and Great Egrets, Lesser Whistling Duck, Sunda Teal, Black-backed Swamphen, Ruddy-breasted and Whitebrowed Crakes, Whiskered Tern, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Cave Swiftlet, Collared Kingfisher, Sunda Woodpecker, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Racket-tailed Treepie, Pied Fantail, Bar-winged and Plain Prinias, Javan Myna, Plain-throated Sunbird and Javan Munia. Javan Tesia (Tony Disley) Day 3 In the morning we will have another opportunity to look for birds at the edge of the city. After lunch at Bogor, and a brief exploration of the famous Botanical Gardens, we will travel inland to National Park, the most famous of the few natural forested areas remaining in western Java, for a four nights stay at Cipanas. The drive will take us through a typical cross-section of the Javan countryside. Initially there will be few birds as we cross the seemingly unending expanse of rice paddies dotted with small kampongs (hamlets), although both Long-tailed Shrike and Pied Bushchat appear to thrive in this environment. Gradually, as we ascend from the plains to the impressive Puncak Pass, rice paddies give way to patches of forest and tea plantations perched precariously on the surrounding slopes. We will stop in particular to look for the endemic Pygmy Tit, one of the world s smallest birds. Days 4-6 Gunung Gede- Pangrango National Park is a tribute to the Indonesian conservation effort, especially in view of the overwhelming human population pressures that Java is exposed to. This magnificent reserve harbours virtually all of Java s endemic birds and most are seen here regularly. The early morning can be fruitfully spent birding around the forest edge. Even to those without an interest in natural history, the beauty and richness of Java s montane forests are apparent from the moment one enters their cathedral-like embrace. Starting at 1400m we will follow a well-laid trail which winds upwards through undisturbed forest to the summit of the Gunung Gede- Pangrango volcanic massif. Fortunately it is not necessary to climb to the top in order to see the vast majority Java s montane specialities and we will concentrate on the lower to middle sections. Typically the forest can appear lifeless one moment and the next resound with a cacophony of sound and activity as a mixed species flock sweeps across our path. Led invariably by the ubiquitous endemic Javan Fulvetta, an overwhelming mass of little birds rushes by. Characteristic species in these flocks include Blackwinged Flycatcher-Shrike, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Blue Nuthatch, Chestnutbacked Scimitar-Babbler, the endemic Spotted Crocias (not as easy here as at Gunung Halimun), Whitebrowed and Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babblers, Sunda Warbler, Mountain Leaf Warbler, Indigo Flycatcher, the endemic Rufous-tailed Fantail, the endemic Javan Grey-throated White-eye and the exquisite endemic Whiteflanked (or Kuhl s) Sunbird. If we locate a fruiting tree we may find a gathering of frugivores such as the endemic Orange-fronted and Brown-throated Barbets, and Orange-spotted and Sunda Bulbuls. The open parts of the trail attract the endemic Javan Whistling Thrush, Sunda Blue Robin and Snowy-browed Flycatcher, while the endemic Chestnut-bellied Partridge sometimes scratches about in the leaf litter at the trail margin. Needless to say the forest floor and understorey provides a home for many of the most sought-after species, and we should see Eyebrowed and Pygmy Wren-Babblers, the superb White-bibbed and smart endemic Crescent-chested (or Pearl-cheeked) Babblers, Lesser and White-browed Shortwings, and the cheeky endemic Javan Tesia, perhaps the most obliging member of its genus. Regular scanning of the horizon should result in at least one sighting of the endemic Javan Hawk-Eagle, and there is a slim chance of seeing the rare Giant Swiftlet. As dusk gathers at a spectacular waterfall, we will hope to spot a resting Salvadori s Nightjar and, during the walk back downhill after dark, we will be on the lookout for the elusive endemic Javan Scops Owl, as well as the commoner Sunda Scops Owl (split from Collared). We also have a chance of finding Javan Frogmouth and the endemic Javan Barred Owlet. Amongst the many other birds we may see at Gunung Gede- Pangrango are Sunda (split from Oriental) and Rustybreasted Cuckoos, Orangebacked Woodpecker, Banded Broadbill, Sunda and Lesser Cuckooshrikes, Ashy Drongo, Horsfield s Babbler, Lesser and White-crowned Forktails, Mountain and Olive-backed Tailorbirds, Little Pied Flycatcher, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Streakybreasted Spiderhunter (split from Little), Blood-breasted Flowerpecker and Oriental White-eye. We should also see at least one or two of the park s rarest or most secretive inhabitants, which include Rufous (or Dusky) Woodcock, the colourful but inconspicuous endemic Javan Trogon, the endemic Rufousfronted Laughingthrush, the sultry, fruit-loving endemic Javan Cochoa, Sunda Thrush and Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch. Fire-tufted Barbet, a species previously thought

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Java & Bali to only occur in the Malay Peninsula and Sumatra, has also been seen on recent tours. In addition to a number of squirrels and tree shrews, we also have a good chance of seeing the endemic Grizzled Leaf Monkey and Javan Langur, as well as Javan Ferret-Badger and Sunda Stink Badger. Day 7 Today we will travel west to Gunung Halimun National Park for a two nights stay. We may arrive in time for some initial exploration. Day 8 Although the forests of the Gunung Halimun massif are the largest tract of true rainforest now remaining on Java, the area s particular importance for wildlife protection was only acknowledged as recently as 1992, when the national park was established. The wide altitudinal range ( m) contributes to the great diversity of habitats and birdlife. In contrast to National Park, the 40,000 hectares of Gunung Halimun National Park, which includes seven peaks above 1450m elevation, have been comparatively little researched; the still strong conviction that the mountains are haunted meant that early researchers Bali Mynas (Craig Robson) found it very difficult to employ guides here! Neatly situated inside the forest, is a comfortable research station with accommodation for visitors, accessed by a rough unsurfaced road. This track enters one of Java s few remaining intact tracts of lowland broadleaved evergreen rainforest some 6 kilometres before the research station, and this is where we will enjoy our first taste of the quite superb avifauna of this hidden gem of a national park. In the early mornings and evenings, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeons can be heard booming from the treetops, and we have a great chance of seeing Sumatran Green-Pigeons perched high on exposed branches or zooming overhead. Javan Hawk-Eagle occurs here also, and we will try and spot one soaring over the canopy. Periodically, as we walk, we will encounter large bird-waves which here often contain several species that are now very hard to find elsewhere in Java, notably the threatened endemic White-breasted Babbler, the endemic White-bellied Fantail and the scintillating endemic Javan Sunbird. Additionally, Sunda Minivet and the garrulous Spotted Crocias are usually much easier to see here than at Gunung Gede. A network of trails leading from the research station will take us deep inside untouched primary forest, where we can search for some of the park s more secretive specialities, such as Javan and Orange-breasted Trogons. In the evening we will look for nightbirds including Javan Barred Owlet and the bizarre-looking Javan Frogmouth. Other species that we will be on the lookout for are Crested Serpent Eagle, Crested Goshawk, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Brown-backed Needletail, Rufous Piculet, Checkerthroated Woodpecker, Malaysian Cuckooshrike, Blue-winged Leafbird, Greycheeked Bulbul, Pygmy Tit, Blue Whistling Thrush, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Little and Streaky-breasted Spiderhunters, and Orangebellied Flowerpecker, as well as the odd catch-up that some of us may have missed at. There is even an outside chance of Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush. There is a healthy population of the endangered Javan Gibbon in the park and their evocative cries can easily be heard emanating from the forested ridges above the research station. We have a good chance of seeing one. Day 9 After some final birding at Gunung Halimun National Park we will head back to Jakarta for an overnight stay. Day 10 This morning we will take a boat trip out to Pulau Rambut, a small island in the Java Sea off Jakarta which is home to the last significant colony of large waterbirds in the region. During the boat journey, or around the island itself, we have a good chance of encountering both Christmas and Lesser Frigatebirds. White-bellied Sea Eagles are regular in this area as well. Once we reach the island, we will be hoping to find the rare and increasingly elusive Milky Stork. Although not by any means certain, we have a reasonable chance, as a few pairs breed in the large heronry and commute to the mainland to feed. Other species we may well find here include Little Black Cormorant, Black-headed and Glossy Ibises, Pied Imperial Pigeon, Asian Koel, Haircrested Drongo, Black-naped Oriole, Oriental Magpie Robin and White-breasted Woodswallow. From Jakarta we will catch an afternoon flight to Denpasar, the capital of Bali, for an overnight stay at nearby Sanur. This exquisite island is everything that has been written about it and far more besides. Day 11 Early this morning we will visit the coastal mudflats, fish ponds and mangroves in the Benoa Harbour area. The priority species here will be the near-endemic Javan Plover (a recent split from Kentish). Depending on the state of the tide, we may also see Pacific Reef Egret, Striated Heron, Pacific Golden Plover, Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Red-necked Stint, Terek Sandpiper, Grey-tailed Tattler, Far Eastern Curlew, Gull-billed Tern, Small Blue and Sacred Kingfishers, Flyeater (or Golden-bellied Gerygone), Scaly-breasted Munia and the glowing Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker. This is also a great place for seeing Savanna Nightjar during the daytime. Later we will drive to the western tip of the island, for an overnight stay at Labuan Lalang, close to Bali Barat National Park. Our journey will at take us through emeraldgreen rice paddies dotted with exotic Hindu temples, the most evident aspect of Bali s rich cultural heritage, and in this habitat we will look out for the magnificent Javan Kingfisher (endemic to Java and Bali). Bali Barat National Park is clothed in open dry woodland with wetter broadleaved evergreen

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Java & Bali patches, and as such holds a number of species that we will not have encountered up to now. Our primary objective here will be to see the endemic Bali Myna (or Bali Starling), surely one of the most beautiful birds in the world. Although it is kept widely in captivity, the number of individuals actually living in the wild in the park (its only home) is currently thought to be fewer than 30 individuals. There is a captive breeding centre in the park, from where small numbers are annually released into the forest. Unfortunately, a combination of high mortality rate (due to being bred in captivity) and on-going illegal capture for the cage-bird trade is making it difficult for the species to build up its numbers again and, at present, the reintroduction project seems to have reached a low ebb. Ideally we would hope to see wild-born offspring from reintroduced birds (no original wild birds have been present for many years now), but even this may be difficult at present. We have a good chance of seeing the threatened Black-winged Starling (virtually endemic to Java and Bali), several pairs of which can still be found near the Bali Starling release site. Some of the other birds we may find at Bali Barat are Black-thighed Falconet, Green Peafowl (Nik Borrow) Barred Buttonquail, Spotted, Zebra and Emerald Doves, Asian Palm Swift, Greyrumped Treeswift, Rufousbacked Kingfisher, Chestnutheaded and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Lineated Barbet, Pacific Swallow, Australasian Bushlark, White-shouldered Triller, Common Iora, Black Drongo, Grey Tit (split from Great), the uncommon Fulvous-chested Jungle Flycatcher, Black-naped Monarch, Mangrove Whistler, Lemon-bellied White-eye, and Olive-backed Sunbird. Along the coast, we may also see Great-billed Heron, Lesser Adjutant, and Beach Thick-knee, while during the boat journeys to and from the park we may encounter fishing Roseate, Black-naped and Greater Crested Terns. Day 12 After some final birding at Bali Barat we will drive to nearby Gilimanuk and catch the ferry across the narrow strait to Banyuwangi in eastern Java. From here we will drive to Baluran National Park for an overnight stay. In the late afternoon we will begin our exploration of the park. Day 13 Baluran National Park is one of Java s oldest national parks and contains a variety of mainly dry savanna-like habitats, dominated by the extinct Baluran Volcano. At dusk and dawn we should hear the loud and unmistakable bugling of Green Peafowl as they venture out of the forest into more open areas. This is probably the most easily accessible site in the world for this spectacular and endangered bird, and we are sure to enjoy some wonderful views. Another speciality of the park is Green Junglefowl, which here occurs alongside the less common Red Junglefowl. In patches of broadleaved evergreen forest we will search for the endemic Grey-cheeked Tit- Babbler, and also have a good chance of seeing another potential endemic, in the form of the highly distinctive local race of the Banded Pitta. Not surprisingly many of the birds in Baluran are similar to those of Bali Barat National Park, but additional species we may find include Brahminy Kite, Spotted Kestrel, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Green Imperial Pigeon, Island Collared Dove, Plaintive Cuckoo, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Blue-eared and Coppersmith Barbets, the impressive White-bellied Woodpecker, Common and Greater Flamebacks, Striated Swallow, Malaysian Cuckooshrike, Small Minivet, Olive-winged Bulbul and Hill Blue Flycatcher. After dark, we will look for Spotted Wood Owl. Much of the park comprises dry woodland and savanna which is more reminiscent of Africa than Indonesia, and there were formerly large areas of grassland that attracted herds of Banteng, a shy species of wild cattle. Unfortunately Nile Acacia Acacia nilotica, a native of Africa, originally planted in 1969 as a firebreak, has now invaded as much as 70% of the savanna area in the park, to the detriment of the grasslands. It is a very fast-growing species, ironically dispersed in the faeces of herbivores, and can spread at the frightening rate of hectares per year! The relevant authorities are currently looking at ways to control it with herbicide and other methods. In the meantime, Banteng are difficult to observe. Fortunately, this sad state of affairs has yet to have any major impact on most bird and mammal life. We should find Javan Langur, Eurasian Wild Boar, Rusa (or Timor) Deer, and Indian Muntjac, and there is an outside chance of seeing a small packs of Dhole (or Asian Wild Dog). In the late morning we will drive to the outskirts of Banyuwangi for a two night stay. This afternoon we will begin our exploration of the Ijen region. Day 14 Today we will again drive up towards the Ijen Plateau, which lies to the northwest of Banyuwangi and is situated in the centre of the Ijen-Merapi Maelang Reserve that extends over much of the mountainous region directly west of Banyuwangi and which borders on Baluran National Park in the northeast. The principal attraction for tourists at Ijen is the large, sulphurous crater lake at about 2300m elevation, and the tough local men that transport baskets full of sulphur blocks entirely on foot. The mine yields 9-12 tons of sulphur per day, and individual loads of up to 70kg are carried the 17 kilometres down the mountain to a factory near Banyuwangi. Fortunately for birders, the entire eastern slopes of the volcanoes, above about 1000 metres, are still clothed in superb montane forests, through which runs the narrow road up to the plateau. We will spend the whole day birding along this road and its side trails. Our main target species will be the restricted-range and highly distinctive White-faced Partridge, which is endemic to east Java. This is a remote and very birdy area, where we will have a good chance of seeing Ruddy Cuckoo- Dove, Pink-headed Fruit- Dove, the restless endemic Yellow-throated Hanging

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Java & Bali Parrot and the endemic Blackbanded Barbet, as well as more widespread species like Banded Kingfisher. Roadsides scrub and tangles provide a home for both Sunda and endemic Javan Bush-Warblers, the latter at the higher levels, and we will have more opportunities for seeing Javan Hawk-Eagle. Orange-spotted and Sunda Bulbuls, Sunda Minivet and White-bellied Fantail are all quite common, and Horsfield s Thrushes feed along shady sections of the Greater Sand Plovers (Michael Hodgson) road at dawn and dusk. Other species that me may see here include Besra, Black Eagle, Red-billed Malkoha, Wreathed Hornbill, Crimson-winged and Grey-and-buff Woodpeckers, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, and Mountain White-eye. We have further chances here for Rufous Woodcock, Javan Barred Owlet and Javan Frogmouth, should we need them. Day 15 This morning we will pay a last visit to the Ijen Plateau before returning to Denpasar in time for an evening flight bound for London. Day 16 Morning arrival at London. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/ lodges are mostly of normal Birdquest standard. At Gunung Halimun (2 nights) and at Baluran (1 night) the lodges are rather basic, with shared, Indonesian-style bathroom facilities and no hot water. Road transport is by small, coach or minibus and roads are mostly good. Walking: The walking effort is mostly easy to moderate, but there are one or two optional fairly strenuous uphill walks at Gunung Gede (including in the dark while nightbirding). Climate: Most days in the lowlands will be hot, dry and sunny, but overcast conditions are fairly frequent and some rain can be expected. In montane areas it will range from distinctly cool to warm. The humidity is often rather high. Bird Photography: Opportunities are worthwhile. Tour Price: 3260, 3847, $5379 London/London (or 2520, 2974, $4158 Jakarta/ Denpasar). Price includes all transportation (including all flights), all accommodations, all meals, bottled water, some drinks, all excursions, all entrance fees, all tips for local drivers/guides and for accommodations/restaurants, leader services. Single Room Supplement: 221, 261, $365. (The lodge at Gunung Halimun has only five rooms, so sharing is likely there. Anyone having to share will receive a small refund.) Deposit: 330, 389, $545. If booking more than 12 months before departure, the initial deposit is only 150, 177, $248. Linking Birdquests: This tour can be linked with Sulawesi & Halmahera or with The Lesser Sundas. Please contact us for further information.