Naturetrek Tour Report 9-23 April 2006

Transcription

1 Naturetrek 9-23 April 2006 Report compiled by Geoff Carr Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Jordan Tour leaders: Mohamed al Shamleh (Ground agent leader) Shakeeb Said (Driver) Geoff Carr (Naturetrek leader) Tour participants: Christine Carr John Sharpe Linda Sharpe Steve Davis Karen Baker Kay Hale Rae Daley Nev Morgan Janine Marchant Day 1 Sunday 9th March Heathrow to Amman Everyone met up and through the usual security and other procedures at the airport, onto our Royal Jordanian flight to Amman. A trouble free flight and arriving just after midnight local time then quickly ushered through passport control with the excellent help of Nadder, one of the ground agent staff and then on to the Shepherd Hotel in Amman. Day 2 Shuna Dam Kafrein Dam Dead Sea Monday 10th April Sunny 28c A Laughing Dove and Blackbird were the trip first birds at the hotel entrance. After breakfast we headed off to Shuna Dam where we had Spur-winged Plover, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Kingfisher, all of the swift species (lots of Alpines), Red-rumped Swallow, Blackcap, Orange Tufted Sunbird and Jackdaw. Next stop was Kafrein Dam with Black-necked Grebe, Long-legged Buzzard, Osprey, Black Stork, Pied Kingfisher, White-breasted Kingfisher and Great Grey Shrike. From the Kafrein Dam to the Dead Sea and the New Rest House for an excellent buffet lunch and then a birding session, finding Sand Partridge and giving excellent views, lots of migrant Blackcap, Tristram s Grackle and Fan-tailed Raven. From here we went to the old Resthouse on the northern shore to look for Dead Sea Sparrow. There had been some disturbance and scrub clearance and this appeared to have moved the sparrows away although there were some old nests about. We did find Rufous Bush-chat, Graceful Warbler and good numbers of Olivaceous Warbler singing. Naturetrek June 06 1

3 Back from here to the Shepherd Hotel and our evening meal. Day3 Zarqa River King Tatal Dam Dibbin Forest Jarash Tuesday 11th April Sunny 22c This morning we travelled north of Amman and our first stop was along the Zarqa River where we had a number of Buzzard over, Long-billed Pipit, Black-eared Wheatear, Orange Tufted Sunbird and eastern race Jay. A further drive brought us to King Talal Dam and a few more Steppe Buzzards over, Hobby, Red-rumped Swallow and Scrub Warbler. We drove on for our picnic lunch in the Dibbin Forest which produced Great Tit, Wren, as well as various Orchids, Cyclamen and a Tortoise. From here we visited the magnificent Roman ruins at Jerash for the rest of the afternoon. Jerash is possibly the best example of a past Roman city in the world and improving each year with various restoration works and rebuilding. Blue Rock Thrush and Black- eared Wheatear were evident at the site. Day 4 Qasr Karana Qasr Amra - Wadi Al Butm Azraq Wednesday 12th April Sunny 25c After departing from the Shepherd Hotel in Amman, our first stop was in the eastern desert where we had a few Lesser Kestrel,two Cream-coloured Courser, Isabelline Wheatear, Short-toed and Lesser Short- toed Lark, Temminck s Lark, Yellow Wagtail of the races feldegg and beema and Ortolan Bunting. Then a stop a little further on at Qasr Karana, a fine example of what is thought an Ummayed Palace set in the Eastern Desert with commanding views all around and Black-eared Wheatear and Desert Finch. After a while here we drove on and visited the Ummayed bath house at Qasr Amra with the elaborate paintings on the ceilings of people, animals and birds. A number of birds were in the scrub around the bath-house, Wryneck, Nightingale, Redstart, lots of Lesser Whitethroat and Chiffchaff. We drove to the nearby Wadi al Butm for some shade and our lunch with similar species all around in the trees and scrub but with the added bonus of White-throated Robin. From Wadi al Butm on to Azraq and to the nature reserve there. We had a couple of hours here before dusk and found Squacco Heron, Montague s Harrier, Marsh Harrier, Little Crake, Water Rail, Namaqua Dove, 2 Bluecheeked Bee-eater and White-eared Bulbul. At dusk we drove to the Resthouse, our accommodation for the next two nights. 2 Naturetrek June 06

4 Day 5 Shaumari Azraq - As Safawi (Basalt Desert) Thursday 13th April Sunny 28c After an early breakfast at the Resthouse we then drove to the nearby Shaumari Reserve. On the approach to the reserve we had a number of Buzzard sat out in the desert, Yellow Wagtail, Nightingale and Woodchat Shrike. Inside the reserve there was a Golden Oriole singing, Spanish Sparrow and Ortolan Bunting. From here we drove to the east side of Azraq to where previous heavy rainfall had produced a shallow lake (Qa) and this had a good selection of various species of birds. Here we found Pintail, Shoveler, Garganey, Avocet, Collared Pratincole, Dunlin, Ruff, Slender-billed Gull, White-winged Black Tern, Black Tern and Desert Finch. After a buffet lunch in Azraq we drove out to the Black Basalt Desert beyond As Safawi and found Creamcoloured Courser and Brown-necked Raven. Back to the Resthouse in the late afternoon for dinner. Day 6 Mt Nebo Madaba - Wadi Mujib Karak Castle Wadi Dana Friday 14th April Sunny 28c We left Azraq and drove back towards Amman and to Mt Nebo from where Moses could see the Promised Land across the Dead Sea and adjacent the Franciscan church with a landscape mosaic and other historical features. Here we had a number of Steppe Buzzards over and Spanish Sparrow. From here to Madaba to look at the first map produced as a mosaic of what is now Israel, Palestine and Jordan. We stopped for lunch as we descended Wadi Mujib with Buzzards passing over, good numbers of Lesser Kestrel, Mourning Wheatear and Blackstart. On the south side of the Wadi Mujib we stopped to photograph Black Iris, the national flower of Jordan,with a Montague s Harrier drifting over the cereal fields. On then for a quick late afternoon tour of Karak Castle built by the Crusaders in the 12th century and later used by the Mamluks. Steppe Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Alpine Swift and Blue Rock Thrush were around the castle. We arrived at the Camp Site at Wadi Dana at dusk and after a welcome meal had and early night to bed. Day 7 Wadi Dana Saturday 15th April Sunny/cool wind 25c At first light Cuckoo and Chukar were calling in the deep Wadi below and our pre-breakfast walk near the camp site produced Rock Martin, Orange-tufted Sunbird and Raven. It was fantastic scenery and rock formations with views out towards Wadi Araba and Israel in the distance. Naturetrek June 06 3

5 After breakfast we walked the nature reserve trail and found Griffon Vulture, a superb male Pallid Harrier, 5 Steppe Eagle, Lesser-spotted Eagle, Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Quail, Bee-eater, Woodlark, Long-billed Pipit, Orphean Warbler, Tristram s Grackle, Tristram s Serin and Cretzschmar s Bunting. Other interesting finds during the were Blue Agama Lizards, 4 Tortoise, 3 Camelion, Golden Spiny Mouse, Gerbil and a Porcupine quill was found to prove that these nocturnal animals do exist at Dana. After an excellent and scenic day a rewarding meal at the camp site with 2 Scop s Owls calling after dark. Day 8 Dana Village Shawbak Little Petra Sunday 16th April Cloud cover/cool wind 10c A cold pre-breakfast walk produced the early morning Chukar s, 3 Griffon Vultures overhead (who says that vultures need hot air thermals!), a few Steppe Buzzard, Lesser Kestrel, good numbers of Lesser Whitethroat and Wood Warbler. After the usual excellent buffet breakfast we left Dana and headed south across a steppe landscape and found Northern Wheatear and Isabelline Wheatear. At Shawbak Crusader Castle, with a commanding view over the surrounding landscape and the main trade route at that time we spent some time exploring the site before unseasonal heavy rain cut short the tour. Rock Sparrow are usually found in good numbers here but we only found one bird sheltering from the rain. On the slopes below the castle there were a flock of Linnets, Goldfinch and amazingly, a flock of over 20 Tristram s Serin. After lunch we moved on to Little Petra as the rain stopped and the sun came out and explored this northern part of the much larger ancient Nabatian city of Petra. Ancient traders stayed at Little Petra as they were not allowed into the main city. Here we found Fan-tailed Raven, Rock Martin and our first Sinai Rosefinch. The rain started again and we moved on to our hotel at Wadi Musa near Petra. Day 9 Petra Monday 17th April Sunny/cool wind 20c After breakfast we had a full day, with clear sunny weather, looking around the legendary ancient Nabatian city of Petra with quite a number of other tourists in the area. Our guide, Yousef, took us round and explained the history of the site in detail and showed us features overlooked by many of the other tourists. Amazing carved structures and colours giving many photo opportunities and memories. 4 Naturetrek June 06

6 A city that had some 30,000 inhabitants during its peak and traded with China, India and Africa and never conquered but with the abandonment of the city thought to be following an earthquake. We had our lunch in the restaurant within the ancient city of Petra and then free time for individuals to explore more of the area and take more photos. Although we focused mainly on the city we did see Fan-tailed Raven, Mourning Wheatear and more Sinai Rosefinch. After this excellent historical day we re-grouped at the bus park and then made our way back to our hotel. Day 10 Petra Wadi Rum Tuesday 18th April Sunny/windy 25c We left Petra after breakfast and headed for Wadi Rum stopping on route at a small farm growing crops and with a few Acacia trees around the site. Here we had a number of species such as Tree Pipit, Redstart, Black-eared and Mourning Wheatear, Rock Thrush, Wood Warbler Spotted Flycatcher, Tristram s Grackle and Masked Shrike as well as a steady passage of raptors. A little further on into the Wadi Rum we found good numbers of White-crowned Wheatear. We had lunch at a campsite, a few kilometres before the main Rum village, in a Bedouin style tent while being entertained with music and traditional songs. After our lunch we were taken by pick-up to our Bedouin camp for the night out in the Wadi Rum beneath the towering cliffs. Towards late afternoon we had a large raptor migration north and straight over our camp with some 500+ Steppe Buzzard seeking somewhere to roost for the night also a small group of Ortolan Bunting and Trumpeter Finch. Some 14 Brown-necked Raven roosted on cliffs just above our camp. As darkness fell there was an amazing cover of stars in the sky and after our evening dinner we were rewarded with a Hume s Tawny Owl calling quite close to the camp site. The same bird was present and calling at intervals throughout the night. Day 11 Wadi Rum Aqaba Red Sea Coast Wednesday 19th April Sunny 30c It was a cool but pleasant early morning as we searched in vain for the roosting Hume s Tawny Owl. After breakfast we were taken back to the main campsite, birding on route in the desert terrain, for our lunch and further musical entertainments. We found 100+ Steppe Buzzard, Long-legged Buzzard, Desert Lark, Sinai Rosefinch and 20+ Trumpeter Finch. We travelled on down to Aqaba and down the Red Sea to the Saudi border to look for gulls, much warmer now and a strong breeze. Naturetrek June 06 5

7 Along the Red Sea we found White-eyed Gull, Great Black-headed Gull, Gull-billed Tern, Common Tern, Caspian Tern, Pied Kingfisher, Orphean Warbler and lots of Blackcap. Late afternoon we drove back to Aqaba and our hotel in the town. Day 12 Aqaba Water Treatment Works Wadi Araba Thursday 20th April Sunny/ windy 30c An early start and we headed off for the Water Treatment Works and after getting our permits from the military we entered the area. A new treatment works costing 30 million JD but retaining some of the old works and habitat as a future bird observatory and migration watch point. It was quite hot as we explored the lagoons, reeds and Acacia with Mohammed who was with us throughout this trip and will be running the observatory in the future. Our first bird was Arabian Babbler which gave Steve his 2500 bird for his world list, it was to be drinks all round in the evening! There were lots of birds passing over on migration and other birds busy feeding in the Acacia trees or around the lagoons before moving on north to destinations in the Russian Arctic, Steppe-land Asia or Eastern Europe. We found Purple Heron, Garganey, Pintail, Marsh Harrier, 50+ Levant Sparrowhawk, Honey Buzzard, Booted Eagle, Collared Pratincole, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, 30+ Marsh Sandpiper, Slender-billed Gull, Great Blackheaded Gull, Little Gull, Gull-billed Tern, Whiskered Tern, Little Green Bee-eater, Roller, Rufous Bush Robin, 100s Blackcap, Eastern Bonelli s Warbler and Golden Oriole. After a picnic lunch at the observatory we went on to Wadi Araba, north of Aqaba. It was very hot as we searched the Acacia scrub for our target bird, Arabian Warbler and were lucky to find a sculking bird close by in the shade. From here we travelled back to Aqaba and to the allotment plots to the south of the town on the edge of the Red Sea and also to do some sea-watching. Here we had White-eyed Gull, Great Black-headed Gull, Roseringed Parakeet, White Wagtail, Nightingale, Upcher s Warbler and House Crow. Back to the hotel for a celebration drink (thanks Steve) and our evening meal. Day 13 Aqaba - Aqaba Water Treatment Works Friday 21st April Sunny/windy 30c After breakfast, another early start to the day with a visit to the bay in Aqaba where we found Brown Booby flying around before alighting on an anchor buoy in the bay. We hired a glass bottom boat to take some of us nearer to get a better view and some photos and got quite close to the bird. From here on to the Water Treatment Works where we had another hot day but with plenty of birds about. Here we had Ferruginous Duck, Black Kite, 200+ Levant Sparrowhawk, 15 Honey Buzzard, Steppe Eagle, Booted Eagle, Collared Pratincole, Curlew Sandpiper, Little Stint, 10 Temminck s Stint, Whimbrel, 30+ Marsh Sandpiper, Heuglin s Gull, Slenderbilled Gull, Caspian Tern, Red throated Pipit, Nightingale, Masked Shrike and Indian Silverbill. 6 Naturetrek June 06

8 We our lunch in a Syrian restaurant in Aqaba then a trip on a glass-bottomed boat down the Red Sea coast to look at the coloured corals and fish with an amazing variety of coral shapes. On the boat journey we had a Stone Curlew fly over, Caspian Tern, Sandwich Tern and Common Tern. Back to the hotel in the late afternoon as the sun dropped towards Eilat in Israel. Day 14 Aqaba Wadi Araba Dead Sea Saturday 22nd April Sunny/humid 30c After breakfast we left Aqaba and travelled north along Wadi Araba and at a café we found Little Green Beeeater. A little later we turned of Wadi Araba and stopped for our picnic lunch at Wadi Fidan. Here we had Desert Lark, Blackstart, Arabian Babbler and Southern Grey Shrike. We continued on route and then along the Dead Sea where we had Fan-tailed Raven, Raven, Tristram s Grackle and Black Redstart. At the northern part of the Dead Sea we stopped and searched the old Rest House area for Dead Sea Sparrow and finally found 5 birds with new nests in Tamarix scrub further west from the old Rest House. Male Dead Sea Sparrow are really smart birds in their breeding plumage. Additionally, at the same site we found 4 Namaqua Dove, Rufous Bush Robin and 30+ singing Olivaceous Warbler. By late afternoon we were back in Amman and our final night in Jordan. Day 15 Sunday 23rd April Amman London After breakfast we departed to the airport and passed through passport control fairly quickly and then our flight back to Heathrow. An unforgettable trip with lots of birds, (191 species), magical historical places and an enthusiastic group. Thanks everyone and in particular to Shakeeb and Mohammed. Naturetrek June 06 7

9 Jordan Bird list April 2006 Common name Scientific name Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 1 3 Brown Booby Sula leucogaster 1 4 Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 2 6 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Little Egret Egretta garzetta Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Black Stork Ciconia nigra 2 12 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Pintail Anas acuta Shoveler Anas clypeata Teal Anas crecca Garganey Anas querquedula Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca 1 18 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 5 19 Black Kite Milvus migrans Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus 1 21 Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus Buzzard Buteo buteo Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Lesser-spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina 1 32 Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Naturetrek June 06 8

10 April 2006 Common name Scientific name Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus Osprey Pandion haliaetus Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Hobby Falco subbuteo Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Sand Partridge Ammoperdix heyi Chukar Alectoris chukar Quail Coturnix coturnix 2 41 Baillon's Crake Poranza pusilla 42 Little Crake Poranza parva 1 43 Water Rail Rallus aquaticus 1 44 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Coot Fulica atra Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus 1 47 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 6 49 Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 4 53 Spur-winged Plover Hoplopterus spinosus Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea 2 55 Dunlin Calidris alpina Little Stint Calidris minuta Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii Ruff Philomachus pugnax Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus 1 60 Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Redshank Tringa totanus 1 62 Greenshank Tringa nebularia Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Naturetrek June 06 9

11 April 2006 Common name Scientific name Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 2 68 Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus 2 69 White-eyed Gull Larus leucophthalmus Slender-billed Gull Larus genei Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Heuglin's Gull Larus fuscus heuglini 1 74 Great Black-headed Gull Larus marinus Little Gull Larus minutus Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis 1 78 Common Tern Sterna hirundo Caspian Tern Sterna caspia Black Tern Chlidonias niger 2 81 White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus 1 83 Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia * * * * * * * * * * * * * 84 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 4 1 * * 1 2 * * Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis * * * Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Hume's Tawny Owl Strix butleri Scops Owl Otus scops Little Owl Athene noctua 1 93 Little Swift Apus affinis 3 94 Alpine Swift Apus melba Pallid Swift Apus pallidus Swift Apus apus Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 1 98 White-breasted (Smyrna) Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Naturetrek June 06

12 April 2006 Common name Scientific name Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops superciliosus Bee-eater Merops apiaster Roller Coracias garrulus Hoopoe Upupa epops Wryneck Jynx torquilla Crested Lark Galerida cristata * * * * * Woodlark Lullula arborea Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens Temminck's Horned Lark Eremophila bilopha Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cincturus Hoopoe (Bifasciated) Lark Alaemon alaudipes Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Sand Martin Riparia riparia Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Swallow Hirundo rustica * * * * * * * House Martin Delichon urbica Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis White Wagtail Motacilla alba Yellow Wagtail (var. sub. sp) Motacilla flava Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Rufous Bush Robin Cercotrichas galactotes White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Blackstart Cercomela melanura Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Stonechat Saxicola torquata Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Naturetrek June 06 11

13 April 2006 Common name Scientific name Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica Mourning Wheatear Oenanthe lugens White-crowned Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Blackbird Turdus merula Fan-tailed Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Graceful Warbler Prinia gracilis Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus Upcher's Warbler Hippolais languida Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix Garden Warbler Sylvia borin Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca * * *! Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Arabian Warbler Sylvia leucomelaena Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Blue Tit Parus caeruleus Great Tit Parus major White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos * * 6 * * * Arabian Babbler Turdoides squamiceps Orange-tufted (Palestine) Sunbird Nectarinia osea * * Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator Naturetrek June 06

14 April 2006 Common name Scientific name Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Tristram's Grackle Onychognathus tristramii Jay Garrulus glandarius Jackdaw Corvus monedula House Crow Corvus splendens * * * 175 Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis Raven Corvus corax Fan-tailed Raven Corvus rhipidurus House Sparrow Passer domesticus * * * * * * * * * * * * * 180 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis Dead Sea Sparrow Passer moabiticus Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia Tristram s Serin Serinus syriacus Serin Serinis serinus Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Linnet Acanthis cannabina Sinai Rosefnch Carpodacus synoicus Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana Cretzschmar's Bunting Emberiza caesia Indian Silverbill Lonchura malabarica 1 Naturetrek June 06 13

15 Butterflies Small White Spotted Fritillary Wall Brown Large Copper Other species Gekko Blue Agama Sinai Agama Tortoise Chameleon Porcupine Gerbil Golden Spiny Mouse Mole 14 Naturetrek June 06