ASSESSMENT TO REVIVE CRAFT OF CARPET MAKING AMONG WEAVERS OF SELECT BORDER VILLAGES OF PUNJAB

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1 ASSESSMENT TO REVIVE CRAFT OF CARPET MAKING AMONG WEAVERS OF SELECT BORDER VILLAGES OF PUNJAB Raman Gill (Research Scholar), Department of Anthropology, Panjab University, Chandigarh. ABSTRACT India has rich tradition and culture in its vast glorious history. Handicrafts of India hold universal fame because of their perennial beauty and matchless excellence of the products. Hand-knotted carpets reveal the living glory of the things of the bygone era. With brilliant craftsmanship, gorgeous designs and availability in different sizes hand-knotted carpets provide infinite possibilities in interior decoration. The Indian economy is beyond doubt supplemented by its traditional craft products. The craft of carpet weaving has been a source of earning livelihood for the rural poor. Very few studies have been done to explore the world of carpet weavers particularly of border belt of Amritsar district of Punjab. So, an effort has been made through this paper to provide a brief insight into the socioeconomic status of the community associated with the art of carpet weaving. Further, the paper also examines the potential for development of this craft. Keywords: Handicraft, Carpet, Craftsmen, Rugmark. INTRODUCTION The story of the Indian handicrafts which are the masterpieces of craftsmanship is very old and they have survived through all the odds to the present times as they were the products of the times which did not tolerate superfluity in crafts. India is recognized as a textile rich country and the practice of weaving by hand is among the country s cultural beliefs. (Seth, V. and Manohar, A. M.2013). Indian handicrafts have earned popularity worldwide due to their exquisite deigns, art, quality and functional utility. Handicraft is an important traditional occupation that has generated vast direct and indirect employment opportunities for millions across all over India. From ancient times, handicrafts contributed a lot towards earning the much needed foreign exchange for our country. UK, USA, Germany, Japan, France, Canada, Australia, Italy, East European and Latin American countries are the main places where Indian handicraft products are being exported.the skills of artisans are passed on from one generation to the other in the widely dispersed handicraft industry of India. Crafts like metalware, wood carvings, carpet weaving, ivory carving and so on comprised the Indian handicrafts. All India Handicrafts Board was established in 1952 to advice government on problems related to handicraft industry and suggest activities for their growth and improvement. In year 1980, the All India Handicrafts Board set up two sections: Development Commisioner Handicrafts and Development Commisioner Handlooms under control of Ministry of Textiles, Central government for implementation of all Central government schemes on handicrafts (Jaya, K. R ). By nature, the handmade carpet industry is a handloom, handicraft and cottage industry product. The age old handmade carpet industry of India is highly labour intensive and is basically cottage industry grounded in rural areas. The hand knotted carpets are not produced within the factory premises but also involve several processes and are spread across many villages over lacs of kilometres in the country. The export of handmade carpets were USD million for the year and for the year the target of exports was fixed at USD million (http/: News Magazine). In spite of the fierce competition from the mill made products, there is a great demand even today for the handmade products by people who wish to fulfil their desire to furnish their homes with their beauty, grace and craftsmanship, thus earning a good price for handicrafts even in the today s modern industrialized market. The availability of cheap skilled labour and raw material provides an added advantage to India as a destination to buyers across the globe for buying traditional handicrafts and handlooms. (Narang, H. 2009). The word carpet refers to a patterned fabric woven with a raised surface of tufts (either cut or looped) and used as a floor covering (Barve; 1967).In India, the main handknotted carpet belts comprised of Bhadohi, Mirzapur, Varanasi, Agra, Aurai, Gopiganj, Ghosla, Khamaria, Madhosingh and Shahjahanpur in Uttar Pradesh.Baramullah, Anantnag, Jammu, Leh 98

2 and Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir, Haryana s Panipat. Bikaner, Jaipur, Tonk of Rajasthan, Pondicherry city in Pondicherry, Danapur, Madhubani and Obra of Bihar, Gujarat s Valsad, Manipur, Elluru and Warangal in Arunachal Pradesh, Bangalore in Karnataka, Amritsar district of Punjab, Gwalior of Madhya Pradesh, Dharamshala, Shimla and Manali of Himachal Pradesh, Dehradun, Pithoragarh and Chamoli in Uttarakhand. The lack of proper infrastructural facilities in these areas are blocking the path of growth of carpet weaving activities. Ministry of textiles set up Carpet Export Promotion Council in 1982 which is a non profit making organization registered under Section 25 of Companies Act To support, protect, maintain, increase and to promote the export of hand knotted carpets and other floor coverings from India are the fundamental objectives of CEPC. (http/: News Magazine). Consumer labelling programmes RUGMARK Many children work in the Indian hand knotted carpet industry. To rescue the child weavers from the looms. RUGMARK was established in India in 1994 and is a voluntary labelling program which provides assurance that child labour was not involved in making the product. It primarily deals with hand knotted carpet industry and under this initiative inspection was done of ongoing looms and certification program is implemented. The child workers after rescue are rehabilitated and offered educational opportunities. RUGMARK is a non profit sustainable organization which is working world over to eliminate the illegal child labour involved in the carpet business. The inspection and education of child workers is self funded by the carpet industry. The licensed exporters and importers can pay the licensing fee and for supporting such schemes, funding from the private sector is essential. RUGMARK was the first initiative to combat the child labour from hand knotted carpet industry through carpet labelling program. Presently in Pakistan as well as Nepal, RUGMARK program operates for removing the child labour (TED Case Studies, 2004). Other labelling initiatives include Kaleen, which is government of India s program, STEP which is a private collaborative effort of Swiss NGOs and representatives from industry and is presently operating in India, Nepal and Pakistan with further expansion plan towards Iran, Morocco, Egypt and Turkey. Care and Fare which presently works in India, Nepal and Pakistan was created by importers of Germany. In carpet labelling programmes like Kaleen and RUGMARK, labels are attached on individual carpets. But in other labelling initiatives namely STEP, Care and Fair, certification is done for entire companies and not for the individual carpets. The focus and scope of these four labelling initiatives in hand knotted carpet industry are varied. In India, carpet weaving is scattered in far off villages making it difficult to check and observe individual looms, so STEP and Care and Fair labelling programmes concentrate mainly on social programmes for welfare of child workers and their families in carpet manufacturing belts instead of certifying carpets as being child labour free. But RUGMARK and Kaleen do have systems for monitoring looms operating without the use of child labour and besides the other social programs. But violations may occur in spite of vast inspection systems. Goals of RUGMARK It focusses on removal of child labour from the hand knotted carpet industry. It does the monitoring of the looms and there is establishment of certification system for manufacturers producing carpets without the use of child labour. It is also aimed at providing rehabilitation and educational opportunities for child weavers. Main components of RUGMARK PRODUCER LICENSING LOOM MONITORING CHILD WEAVERS ARE HELPED OUT IN REHABILITATION RUGMARK label shows the foundation s logo a carpet with a smiling face and is attached on the back of each carpet. RUGMARK has adhesive backing and is made of silk acetate. RUGMARK is inscribed below the logo and a RUGMARK foundation in India or Nepal assigns a serial number to it through which the exporter besides the loom on which carpet was woven can be identified. No text is written which gives explanation of significance of the label. Kaleen label was established by CEPC in June 1995 in India. A paper with a self adhesive backing makes the Kaleen label and is printed in blue, pink and white. Label 99

3 has a Kaleen logo which is a triangle with the statement The Hallmark of Commitment for Child Welfare and promoted by government of India, CEPC inscribed along the edges. On each label, there are two numbers indicating the fiscal year and a sequential serial number related to the sequence of issuing that label. Labels are placed at any place on the back of carpets and sent directly to the exporters who want them. Features of Kaleen label includes the registration of looms by exporters for eradicating child labour from carpet manufacturing. All registered looms need to be checked by an independent agency and any defaulters to face action. Monitoring body has to collect 0.25 of carpet export value as fees from all the exporters and adequately using all the funds. Time to time evaluation to be done by the Steering Committee which is to be headed by the Development Commissioner for handicrafts ( Punjab is famous globally for the richness of its culture, arts and crafts. Lying between the Gangetic Plain with its agricultural riches and the steppes of Central Asia, Punjab has been exposed to many cultures and its cultural traditions were enriched instead of decaying with multiple invasions and defeats (Pande, A.2001). The colourful handicrafts of Punjab state depicts the colourful and vibrant spirit of people of Punjab ( The craft heritage of Punjab got encouragement everywhere because of its distinguished phulkari embroidery, Punjabi jutti, durries, carpets and many other crafts. But today due to modernisation the situation has become drastically different and the Punjab s handicrafts and arts seem to be singing their own dirges (Pande, A.2001). Amritsar district of Punjab is famous for Golden Temple, the holy shrine of Sikhs and also for the Wagah Border. The hand knotted carpets of this border district are pieces of intricate beauty and unique craftsmanship. But this cottage industry which once occupied prominent place on the production front is suffering now-a-days due to the constraints of lower wages for the skilled weavers and absence of market intelligence. The hand knotted carpet industry has spread vastly across the border belt of Amritsar. But this carpet weaving profession over the times has become non lucrative to the weavers due to the low wages in this sector and lack of marketing opportunities and knowledge of direct marketing by weavers besides the fact that Rajasansi, a small town having an international airport and hub of this trade fail to fetch the foreign buyers who love to buy these fabulous carpets for their homes. The Ministry of Textiles, having a full fledged handicrafts department has given consideration to hand knotted carpets only for its commercial woes and has done very little efforts aimed at helping weavers create their own market and expelling the middleman from the carpet trade. So, due to the absence of required efforts by the government on the issue of weaving new dreams for the poor weavers and survival of the craft this study was undertaken to highlight the social status of weavers and document the line of action required for the development of this dying craft. OBJECTIVES It is aimed at studying the socioeconomic conditions of carpet weavers and their knowledge regarding marketing potential. Further it focusses on investigating the problems faced by carpet weavers and their awareness regarding RUGMARK. Based on the observations and investigation done during data collection, efforts have also been made to provide recommendations for the welfare of carpet weavers and growth of carpet trade. LITERATURE REVIEWED Bhangu (1979) did a study on handmade floor coverings using various techniques and materials. The objective of the study was finding out the easier and faster methods being used by nonprofessionals for making floor coverings for home. Nine samples were woven with pile and the remaining without pile. Designs were drafted on graph papers before weaving. Preferences were seen for floor coverings made with or without pile in relation to colour, texture and design. Five respondents preferred piled floor coverings and fourteen respondents preferred pile as well as without pile floor coverings. There was only one respondent who did not like to use any floor covering at all. The respondents preferred colour, designs, and texture of the floor coverings made from cashmilon, pure wool, shoddy and polypropylene. Malhi (1983) in her study on durrie weaving in rural Ludhiana explored the gradual development of the art of durrie weaving, its technique, socioeconomic status of durrie weavers and its problems. The study revealed that blue and green or brown and white were the colour combinations used by weavers. Simple phattian and gutt were the popular motifs used in the past whereas contemporary motifs included geometric, floral, figurative, numerical and word motifs. Gradually, pit loom was replaced by adda. Along with panja(weaver s comb), pankh, phatti and mekhe were other accessories being used. In olden times multicoloured yarn dyed with natural dyes was used, but later colour was limited to two or three and yarns were dyed with direct dyes. Some of the handicaps of durries weavers were low dye fastness, lack of designs and undesirable colour combinations. Virk (1984) conducted a study on handmade carpets, durries and khes of Punjab. The study indicated that the carpets were made on khaddi, local name for hand made wooden loom along with other tools locally called punja, khur and kenchi etc. Cotton and wool yarns were used to make Persian and modified Persian designs and knotting technique was used to make carpets. Durries were also woven on khaddi and horizontal pit loom. These were mainly woven for floor coverings and bedding purpose. The accessories used comprised of a beater, wooden plank and punja. Geometric, floral, leaves, animals, trees were the main motifs being used. To finish the raw edges, fringes and knotting technique was used. The khes was made on pit loom and fly shuttle 100

4 frame loom and prepared in plain, twill, and basket weave. Mainly cotton yarns with natural colours were used and the raw edges were finished by knotting. METHODOLOGY The aim of any study is to acquire knowledge and to know the truth and reality behind the research problem. Various methods can be chosen to conduct any research study. The present study was conducted by survey method as the same could not be subjected to experimentation. For data collection, both the qualitative and quantitative methods were used. Primary data was collected through observation, photography and by administering the interview schedule having simple questions related to the study(as it enabled a direct conversation between the researcher and the respondents, detailed information could be sought and clarification of doubts, if any could be undertaken). Secondary data was collected from various journals, books besides internet sources. Further, convenient sampling technique was used for selecting ten villages namely: Bhuregill, Chamiari, Dhariwal, Kaler, Gujhapir, Harrar Kalan, Khanowal, Tera Kalan, Kukranwala and Kot Sidhu from two blocks namely Ajnala and Harsa Chhinna on the border belt of Amritsar district of Punjab. Sample size consisted of total of 50 carpet weavers comprising of 25 males and 25 females. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS Table No. 1 showing distribution of carpet weavers on the basis of their age group. of Carpet Weavers Age Group (In years) Males Females Frequency age Frequency age Less than 15 Yrs Yrs Yrs Yrs Table No.1 depicts that 60 of the male weavers belonged to 45 to 60years age group as they were involved in this craft since long time back and have become highly skilled and presently carpet weaving was their part time income generation source followed by 28 who were in the 30 to 45 years age category. Only 12 of male weavers were of 15 to 30 years age group as the productivity is more in this age group and they preferred to take employment in other occupations like working in fields, shops or some were auto drivers as they were better paid in other trades than in carpet weaving. Majority of the female weavers were of 30 to 45 years of age. There were only 8 female weavers who were child weavers in contrast to male weavers where no child weaver was found because males of this age group were either studying or employed in other professions as informed by respondents. Plate 1 showing different age groups of male and female weavers involved in carpet weaving Table No. 2 showing distribution of respondents on the basis of their educational qualifications 101

5 Literacy Level of Carpet Weavers Males Females Frequency age Frequency age Illiterate Primary Level Middle Pass Matric Majority of the carpet weavers were less educated or illiterate because of lesser facilities of education in rural areas besides least importance being given to education in earlier times. Fig. No. 1: Bar diagram showing distribution of respondents on the basis of size of family Members 4-6 Members 7-9 Members Frequency It is clear from fig.1 that most of the carpet weavers (62) were having four to six members in their families. 30 of weavers had seven to nine family members and only 8 of respondents had small family size comprising of one to three members. Reasons quoted by weavers for large family sizes was due to illiteracy and lack of awareness regarding family planning. Further, some families were large in size because they were living in joint families. Most of the family members of middle or large families were involved in carpet weaving profession thus contributing to family s income. Fig. No. 2: Bar diagram showing distribution of carpet weavers on the basis of the annual income of their families K - 75 K 75 K - 1 Lac Above 1 Lac Frequency Fig. No. 3: Pie chart showing distribution of respondents on the basis of their caste 102

6 Muslims SC - Sikh Christians Fig. 3 shows that maximum number (58) of carpet weavers were Christians followed by 26 who were SC Sikhs (Mazhbi Sikhs) and only 16 were Muslims. Plate 2 showing carpet weavers belonging to Sikh community Table No. 3 showing distribution of carpet weavers on the basis of source of raw material procurement Raw Material Procurement Frequency From Unit Owners Only From Middleman only Both the Above The investigator found that none of the respondents were aware of RUGMARK labelling scheme. The weavers were told by the researcher about the importance of the RUGMARK labelling initiative so that the weavers and unit owners could opt for RUGMARK as it would increase the opportunity to get direct orders from foreign buyers besides increase in overall sales at domestic and international level. 103

7 Fig.No.4 : Pie Chart showing distribution of carpet weavers on the basis of mode of learning of craft. Inherited Learnt from other Weavers Got Training It is clear from fig. 4 that none of the weavers had got any particular training for weaving carpets. 86 of them had inherited weaving from their forefathers as they all wanted to continue with the profession of weaving only. Only 14 of weavers learnt the craft from other weavers for their own interest and absence of any skilled weaver in their families. Fig No. 5: Distribution of respondents on the basis of source of getting orders for carpet weaving Orders from customers Orders from middleman only Orders from unit owners only Orders from All of the above both middleman and unit owners Frequency All the weavers also informed that they were not selling the carpets made by them directly to the customers in any exhibitions or fairs or have shops or websites showing their products as they are not aware of these modes of selling carpets nor they had any commercial links for increasing trade. Rather they made the carpets for middleman or unit owners who on the domestic front delivered the products to big exporters in Jaipur besides selling them in the Delhi market. Fig. No. 6: Bar diagram showing distribution of carpet weavers on the basis of problems faced by them Low Wages Lack of Exploitation Marketing at the hands Opportunties of Contractors Lack of Govt. Support Related to Loan Poor working Conditions (Like Less Lighting) All of the Above Frequency 104

8 RECOMMENDATIONS TO ADDRESS THE GREY AREAS: Government should provide a platform for marketing activities through participation in international and national crafts fairs and the circulation of a commercial product catalogue for linking the artisans with the market. Formation of Carpet Weavers Welfare Association or Weaver s Cooperative Society ensuring the occupational safety and working towards welfare of weavers. To protect their rights weavers can register themselves as an association or society through which they can easily get subsidized loans besides availing other schemes of government aimed at providing them adequate facilities. Awarding prizes by the state government for the individual weavers for their excellent work and contribution towards Indian economy. Collective efforts of public and private sector aimed at creating awareness among weavers of the importance of RUGMARK and adoption of the same. Hoardings near the periphery of Rajasansi International airport displaying information about addresses of weavers engaged in direct selling of hand knotted carpets besides opening of shops strictly showcasing and selling products based on local crafts. Both the government and private bodies or NGOs working for the benefit of weavers should provide the carpet weavers the information regarding importance of creation of individual brands or private labels for carpet retailing besides opening carpet weaver training centres. Our textile and fashion design and technology people need to take motivation from Fatima Bano who is pursuing development studies course from Sussex university and is a winner of Himachal Pradesh Life Entrepreneurship Award for setting up a Weaver s Hut as a platform to market the beautifully handwoven handicrafts made by Julahas who belonged to Muslim artisan community of Uttar Pradesh. The Weaver s Hut also imparts training to weavers besides connecting them to markets in urban areas and selling the products on foreign lands. CONCLUSION Textile industry plays an important role in the Indian economy. The economic survival of rural poor weavers is dependent on village crafts which also preserve the rich cultural heritage of India. The traditional expertise of weavers is essential for maintaining the cultural diversity. At the domestic and international front, there is lack of availability of a platform for hand knotted carpet retailing contributing to profits out of sales within India. So, initiatives are required for strengthening the livelihood of artisans. The changes and initiatives are required both by government and private bodies for helping weavers regarding issues related to marketing and building good trade relations which is the need of the hour for the survival of the hand knotted carpet trade which is dying a slow death due to enormous changes brought about by urbanisation, modernisation and boycott by foreign buyers due to presence of child weavers in this business. REFERENCES [1.] (Seth,V.and Manohar, A.M Tangaliya The lesser known Textile craft of Saurashtra Gujarat) [2.] Jaya K. R A Study on the Impact of the Kerela state Handicraft Apex Cooperative Society on the working of handicraft cooperatives in Kerela, PhD Thesis in Commerce, Mahatama Gandhi University. [3.] News Magazine [4.] [5.] Narang, H Designing and Construction of quilt covers using Patchwork technique. M.Sc.(Clothing and Textiles) Dissertation, submitted to Panjab University, Government Home Science College, Chandigarh. [6.] Barve, V. R Complete Textile Encyclopaedia. Bombay: D.B. Taraporevala Sons and Co.Private Ltd, p.45. [7.] Trade & Environment Database : Case Studies, Rugmark& Child Labour, Case no. 510, Journal of Indian School of Political Economy,Vol.16,Nos.2 and 3,pp (Source:Rugmark Foundation, Washington). [8.] (Hand - Knotted Carpets Report published by U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of International Labor Affairs, Retreived on , 23.53pm) [9.] Pande,A Folk Music from Mustard Fields in Indian Folklife, Vol.1, Issue 4, pp [10.] [11.] Bhangu A Study on Handmade Floor Coverings using various techniques and materials. M.Sc.(Clothing and Textiles) Master s Dissertation, submitted to Panjab University, Government Home Science College, Chandigarh. [12.] Malhi Durries weaving in Rural Ludhiana with a view to study the gradual development of the art of durrie weaving, its technique, socioeconomic status of durrie weavers and its problem. M.Sc.(Clothing and Textiles) Master s Dissertation, submitted to Panjab University, Government Home Science College, Chandigarh. [13.] Virk A Study on Hand Made Carpets, Durries and Khes of Punjab. M.Sc. (Clothing and Textiles) Master s Dissertation, submitted to Panjab University, Government Home Science College, Chandigarh. 105