Fabric Requirements Queen Quilt Lap Quilt Blue Purple Red Fabric 1 1/2 yard Fabric 1 1/4 yard 2201-01 (P1) 2201-01 (P1) 2202-02 (P72) Fabric 2 1 yard Fabric 2 1/3 yard 7424-06 (P2) 7424-06 (P2) 4795-21 (P61) Fabric 3 1 yard Fabric 3 1/2 yard 8868-01 (P3) 8868-01 (P3) 6931-27 (P127) Fabric 4 1/2 yard Fabric 4 1/4 yard 0691-06 (P31) 8737-10 (P142) 7427-25 (P124) Fabric 5 3/4 yard Fabric 5 1/3 yard 8737-05 (P32) 7424-13 (P141) 8737-08 (P121) Fabric 6 4 7 /8 yards Incl. binding Fabric 6 2 7 /8 yards Incl. binding 5868-15 (P33) 5868-20 (P140) 9410-03 (P120) Fabric 7 4 yards Fabric 7 2¼ yards 3287-04 3287-03 3287-05 Fabric 8 2¾ yards Fabric 8 2 yards Pattern may not be reproduced or distributed by mechanical or electronic means without express written permission of the copyright holder. 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 0 2795-04 2795-05 2795-06 Backing Lap Quilt - 4¼ yards Queen Quilt - 9 3 /8 yards Fabric 6 suggested for each colorway.
Log cabin quilts are classic. Jinny Beyer s Spanish Steps is a fresh take on the design, featuring center medallions made from border print fabric and a pretty stripe in every other round of strips. Suitable for the confident beginner and beyond. Please read the entire pattern before beginning; pattern assumes basic quiltmaking knowledge. All seam allowances are ¼-inch. Press all seams after sewing. WOF = Width of Fabric (assumes 40"); LOF = Length of Fabric. Instructions are for the lap size; changes for the queen size are indicated in parentheses ( ). Step 1: Make Template A & Cut the Fabrics 1-7 Make Template A as instructed on page 5. For Fabrics 1-5, 1¼" strips are first cut from the WOF, then sub-cut into the lengths required for the blocks. Fabric 1 - Cut 4 (9) WOF strips, then cut: 16 (36) 4¼" pieces and 16 (36) 5" pieces - Cut 32 (72) - Cut 16 (36) - Cut 16 (36) - Cut 32 (72) - Cut 16 (36) - Cut 16 (36) - Cut 32 (72) - Cut 16 (36) Step 2: Cut Fabric 8 Separate the wide and narrow stripes by cutting in the center of the seam allowance area between the stripes. Wide Stripe Fabric 2 - Cut 7 (24) WOF strips, then cut: 16 (36) pieces and 16 (36) 8" pieces Fabric 3 - Cut 11 (24) WOF strips, then cut: 16 (36) pieces and 16 (36) 11" pieces Fabric 4 - Cut 5 (10) WOF strips, then cut: 16 (36) 5" pieces and 16 (36) pieces Fabric 5 - Cut 7 (17) WOF strips, then cut: 16 (36) 8" pieces and 16 (36) pieces Fabric 6 - This fabric is used for blocks, Borders 2 and 4, and binding. Refer to the Lap or Queen Cutting Layout on page 4 to cut the pieces required. Fabric 7 - The mini-stripe fabric has 34 stripes across the width of fabric; each stripe is separated by ¾" of solid black. Separate the stripes by cutting in the center of the black, which will allow 3/8" of black along the edges of each stripe. Border 3. Cut four Narrow Stripe narrow stripes measuring 66" (95"). (These are oversized and will be cut to fit later.) If necessary, trim the black seam allowance to ¼" along both sides of the stripes. Block Medallions. The log cabin blocks feature center medallions with a variety of designs. Each medallion is made from four identical triangles; the look of the medallion changes based on the fabric design captured by the triangles. Following the Note on Cutting Border Print Patches on page 5, cut a total of 16 (36) sets of four identical triangles from the wide stripes and the remaining narrow stripes. (All the sets will not match; see the various designs possible on page 5.) Step 3: Make the Medallions Make a medallion by sewing two identical triangles together, carefully matching the fabric design and pinning before sewing. Repeat to make a second identical pair. Lastly, sew the two pairs together. Repeat to make a total of 16 (36). First, cut four (six) pieces measuring 51½" (77") for the horizontal sashing and four measuring 55" (80") for Border 1. Next, cut the pieces for the blocks as follows, cutting the longest pieces first. Sew identical triangles together in pairs, then sew the pairs together to make a center medallion. (4¼" incl. seam allowances.) 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 1
Step 4: Make the Log Cabin Blocks There are two different blocks in the quilt. Blocks 1 and 2 are made using identical fabrics, but the strips in the blocks are added to the center in a different order. Also, traditionally there would be one last Fabric 7 stripe at the bottom of each block. To speed up construction and preserve the continuity of the fabric design, this fabric is added as a sashing strip after the blocks have been sewn together in rows. Separate the center medallions into one set for Block 1 and a second set for Block 2. Try to ensure that each set has a roughly equal number of each design. (It is not a problem if the sets differ by a few.) Referring to the illustrations below and the Color & Strip Guide on page 6, make 8 (18) of each of Blocks 1 and 2. # indicates the piecing order. (Note that after sewing, 1/8" of the black will show along the sides of the Fabric 7 strips.) When complete, blocks measure 13¼ x including seam allowances. Block 1 2 F1 2 3 F1 1 F4 1 3 * F4 4 4 Begin by sewing the shortest Fabric 1 (F1) strip to the left side of the center medallion 1. Continue in a clockwise fashion with the longer Fabric 1 strip and then the two Fabric 4 strips. The second round uses the Fabric 7 strips, also beginning on the left side of the block-in-progress. Be sure to orient the stripe so the triangles point towards the center of the block! Complete the block in this way, ending with the Fabric 7 strip on the right side of the block (*). Block 2 2 F1 2 F4 3 F1 1 3 1 * 4 F4 4 Block 2 is made in the same way as Block 1, except the first strip is sewn to the right side of the center medallion 1, and the strips are added counter-clockwise. The last Fabric 7 strip will be sewn to the left side of the block (*). Step 5: Assemble the Quilt Referring to the Quilt Layout illustration on page 4, arrange the blocks on a design surface in four rows of four blocks (six rows of six blocks). Adjust the arrangement as necessary so that the block centers are distributed in a pleasing way in the quilt. Take care to ensure that the blocks are rotated as shown in the illustration. Sew the blocks together into rows, making four (six) rows of four (six blocks). Queen Size Lap Size Block 1 Block 1 Block 1 Block 2 Block 2 Block 2 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 2
Sew the four 51½" (six 77") Fabric 7 sashing strips to the Fabric 6 (darkest) side of each row, ensuring that the tops of the triangle in the sashing design point towards the blocks! Borders 3 & 4. Repeat the process for Borders 3 and 4, making a total of four. Match the crease in Border 4 to the pin in Border 3. (The two possible center mirror-image motifs are shown here.) The sashing design should point towards the blocks. Referring to the Quilt Layout diagram on page 4, sew the rows together to complete the quilt center. Step 6: Prepare the Borders a) The first step is to find the centers of each of the border pieces, as follows. Borders 2 & 4 (Fabric 6). One at a time, fold all eight border pieces in half right sides together, and finger-press a crease at the centers. Step 7: Attach the Borders Going forward, the Border 1/2 pieces should be treated as the first border to be applied to the quilt, and the Border 3/4 pieces as the second border. Trim and add the borders to the quilt following the instructions for a Framing a Square Quilt in Adding Mitered Borders the Jinny Beyer Way on page 7. When positioning the border strips on the quilt center for marking and cutting, keep in mind that the Fabric 6 section should always be the longest part of the miter. Border 3 (Fabric 8). Fold a border piece in half to find the center. Then find the center of the the mirror image motif closest to that center point. Mark it with a pin. Repeat for the remaining three pieces. Note that one of two possible motifs will be closest to the center; the motif marked with the pin must be the same for all four pieces. Border 1. (Fabric 7). Repeat the process used for Border 3 for all four pieces, using the point of the triangle as the center of the mirror-image motif. b) The next step is to sew the border pieces together in pairs. Borders 1 & 2. Pin together Border 1 and Border 2 pieces, matching the Border 1 center pin to the center crease on Border 2. (The ends will not be even.) Ensure that the Border 1 fabric design will point to the Border 2 strip when sewn, as illustrated below. Sew the strips together. Repeat to make four. Step 8: Quilt & Bind Layer the quilt as follows: backing (wrong side up), batting, quilt top (right side up). Baste the layers together. Quilt as desired. When the quilting is completed, trim the backing and batting even with the edges of the quilt top. Use the reserved Fabric 6 to bind the quilt using your favorite method or by following the instructions at www.jinnybeyer.com/promos/binding Before sewing, align the Border 2 center crease with the pinned center of the the Border 1. Video Introduction to Using Border Prints Jinny introduces you to using her border print fabric in several helpful videos. See them at www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 3
QUEEN LAP Quilt Layout Queen Size illustrated; Wall Size framed by white box. Lap Size measures 51½" square including seam allowances. Queen Size measures 77" square including seam allowances. Fabric 6 Cutting Layouts Selvedge Border 4 (4 @ 5¼" x 72") Border 2 (4 @ 2" x 60") Lap Straight-Grain Binding 7@ 2½" x WOF Bias Binding 28" 103½" First cut the borders and either straight-grain binding strips or a square for bias binding as shown. From the remaining fabric, cut sufficient 1¼" LOF or WOF strips to yield the following pieces for the blocks: 11" - Cut 16 (36) - Cut 16 (36) Selvedge Selvedge Border 4 (4 @ x 102") Border 2 (4 @ 2½" x 85") Selvedge Queen Straight-Grain Binding Bias Binding 33" 10 @ 2½" x WOF 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 4 175½"
Template Trace the pattern onto semi-transparent template plastic, transferring all the lines and markings. Cut the template out on the solid lines. Mirror Line Note on Cutting Border Print Patches As in the illustration, right, when placing a template on border print fabric, center it on a mirror-image motif and align the sewing line just under the arrow with a printed line on the border print fabric. This will create pleasing symmetry and a defining edge when the patch is sewn. To help you cut multiple identical patches, draw a portion of the design motif from the fabric onto the template. Then find that drawn motif elsewhere on the fabric for the next patch. A B A B C D C D Two different designs can be cut from the wide stripes (A, B) and two from the narrow stripe (C, D). As shown, two identical triangles can be cut from each design repeat in the wide stripes. 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 5
F3 - Spanish Steps - Color & Strip Guide Block 1 Block 2 F3 - F4 - F5 - F6 - F4 - F5 - F6 - F3 - F4 - F5 - F6 - F4 - F5 - F6 - F3 - F3 - F3 - F4 - F5 - F6 - F4 - F5 - F6-2017, RJR Fabrics Page 6
Adding Mitered Borders the Jinny Beyer Way Jinny Beyer s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe which coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners. In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance is provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvedge to selvedge, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across the fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus an additional half-yard for a square quilt (2/3 yard for a rectangular one) to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners. Framing a Square Quilt 1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering a motif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minor differences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias edges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a measurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quilt from ruffling at the edges.) 2. To mark the first miter, position a quilter s ruler so the 45 angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print and the ruler touches the point where the top edge of the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in Diagram 1.) Mark then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cut right at the edge of the quilt, the seam allowance is already included.) Center of quilt 45 Line Diagram 1: Mark the miter. 3. Use the mitered angle as a pattern for the other side of the strip as follows. Without disturbing the un-cut side of the strip, bring the mitered side of the border strip to that side, folding the strip over itself, right sides together. Place the top edge of miter at the edge of the quilt, adjusting it a bit if necessary so that the design motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. Mark and cut this second miter. (Using the cut edge, rather than a ruler, as a guide ensures that the design motifs will be an exact match.) 4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, making sure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces. 5. As in Diagram 2, mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of the border strips (wrong side of the fabric). To find the spot, simply draw a short line 1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and the shorter edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. Do the same for each corner of the quilt. Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the first. Mark seam intersection dots on the quilt and the borders. 6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border pieces to the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots on each side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning the border to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt, starting and stopping at the dots. Repeat for the remaining borders. Pin and sew the mitered seams last, starting from the inside dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design elements on both pieces. For a video demonstration of this bordering technique, visit: www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips Reprinted with permission from Jinny Beyer Studio. Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn borders will have designs that flow around the corners. Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way - 1 2016, Jinny Beyer 2017, RJR Fabrics Page 7