Swift assembly guide

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Hugo Carr
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pdf Sample kit shown with aluminium bells (available

1 Swift assembly guide Download the assembly guide at Sample kit shown with aluminium bells (available with the Deluxe kit) Shown here without main tanks Version 10/12/2010 Page 1

2 This kit contains 106 resin parts (colour may vary) Plus 15 bells and sensors in aluminium (Deluxe kit) or resin (Standard kit) (Parts shown with a red X are not included) Version 10/12/2010 Page 2

Plus brass and aluminium rods and tubes, wires and decals (not shown) Working with resin Resin dust is harmful to your lungs so wear a protective mask when sanding. Wet sanding is recommended.

3 Plus brass and aluminium rods and tubes, wires and decals (not shown) Working with resin Resin dust is harmful to your lungs so wear a protective mask when sanding. Wet sanding is recommended. Before handling resin parts wash them in warm (not hot) soapy water and let them dry. This step is necessary to remove the mould release agent used during casting. Resin must be glued with "super glue" (cyano acrylate glue) or alternatively epoxy glue. You will probably noticed that Wave black CA glue was used to build the sample kit in this guide. To glue parts together hold them in place and drip thin glue along the seam instead of trying to align the pieces with glue on them. If warping (distortions) occurs in some parts, use hot water or a hand held hair dryer to soften the area. Hold the piece in place and cool it with cold water. You may have to repeat this process more than once to correct the shape. Always use an appropriate primer before painting your resin model. Imperial to Metric conversion Dimensions throughout this guide are imperials. However, you can convert them to metrics using this rule: 1 inch = 25.4 mm (example: 0.25 = 6.35 mm) Version 10/12/2010 Page 3

Rear engine assembly Smooth the flat surface of the three rear fuel tanks (a

hole in the center of the flat surface of each of the three auxiliary engine

The little ears on the tanks go at the rear.

Glue the detail plates onto the tanks; the two identical ones go on each

DO NOT glue the main bell at this point, but make sure it fits properly.

Insert into that hole a 3 tube of 5/32 brass tube (supplied with the kit).

4 Rear engine assembly Smooth the flat surface of the three rear fuel tanks (a carpenter file works great ) Using a 1/4 bit, carefully drill a 1/4" deep hole in the center of the flat surface of each of the three auxiliary engine pods. Glue the tanks and the pods onto the main engine cylinder. The little ears on the tanks go at the rear. The tank with no widgits goes at the bottom. Glue the detail plates onto the tanks; the two identical ones go on each side tanks, while the third one goes onto the bottom tank (not shown below). DO NOT glue the main bell at this point, but make sure it fits properly. Using a 5/32 bit, drill a hole trough the center of the main engine cylinder. Insert into that hole a 3 tube of 5/32 brass tube (supplied with the kit). Make sure the brass tube exceeds a little into the main bell shaft as well (see red arrow). Secure the brass tube with super glue. Version 10/12/2010 Page 4

Body assembly Make sure the front and rear sections of each side pod align properly by reworking

To help the adhesion of the glue, scratch surfaces that will be glued with a coarse sand paper to

Brass rods were cast inside the side pods as an armature to avoid sagging of the model overtime;

Glue the rear sections of the side pods (those without access hatches).

main body. There are also guides at the back of the pods to ensure positioning.

5 Body assembly Make sure the front and rear sections of each side pod align properly by reworking the joints between them if necessary. To help the adhesion of the glue, scratch surfaces that will be glued with a coarse sand paper to make sure the glue gets a good grip. Brass rods were cast inside the side pods as an armature to avoid sagging of the model overtime; those rods may be visible at the tips of the side pods. Glue the rear sections of the side pods (those without access hatches). The pods should easily rest leaning against the square guide that runs along the length of the main body. There are also guides at the back of the pods to ensure positioning. Note the alignment of the rear section to the main body (see red arrow). Once the rear section is fixed glue the front section. The exterior of the joint between the front and rear sections is not meant to be flush but rather a little more raised at the front section (see red arrow). Version 10/12/2010 Page 5

Because of the weight of the model, the side pods need to be fixed

Using a 5/64 bit, drill three 1 deep holes into each pod and insert 0.

Secure the rods with super glue, cut them flush to the surfaces and

Glue the neck attachment (see red arrow) to the body with its flat

5 deep hole into the center of the neck.

6 Because of the weight of the model, the side pods need to be fixed more securely with brass rods. Using a 5/64 bit, drill three 1 deep holes into each pod and insert brass rods (see red arrows). Secure the rods with super glue, cut them flush to the surfaces and fill the holes with putty. Glue the neck attachment (see red arrow) to the body with its flat side at the bottom. Using a 3/16 bit, drill a 3.5 deep hole into the center of the neck. Insert a 3/16 brass tube and cut it flush to the hole and secure it with super glue. Note that the brass tube also act as an armature to reinforce the model. Glue the front struts hinges part onto the flat surface underneath the neck attachment (see red arrow). Using a 5/64 bit, drill a 0.5 deep hole at the center of each hinge at about a 45 o angle (second picture). Version 10/12/2010 Page 6

That hole must be PERFECTLY ALIGNED with the hole in the neck of the body, so

Insert a 3 tube of 5/32 brass tube and let it exceeds by about 1.

DO NOT glue the command module to the body yet. Using a 3/16 bit, drill a 2.

5 tube of 3/16 brass tube flush to the hole and secure it with super glue.

7 Using a 5/32 bit, carefully drill a 1.5 deep hole into the center of the command module. That hole must be PERFECTLY ALIGNED with the hole in the neck of the body, so that the command module sits correctly onto the neck (see red arrow). Insert a 3 tube of 5/32 brass tube and let it exceeds by about 1.5 and secure it with super glue. DO NOT glue the command module to the body yet. Using a 3/16 bit, drill a 2.5 deep hole trough the center of the rear engine support. Insert a 2.5 tube of 3/16 brass tube flush to the hole and secure it with super glue. Glue the fuel coupling onto the rear engine support (grey part). DO NOT glue the small parts that go on each side of the engine support as picture shows (red X). These parts will be glued later on. Version 10/12/2010 Page 7

8 Glue the fuel lines to the three rear engine pods as shown below and make sure they align correctly with the three holes on the main body (second picture). DO NOT glue the fuel lines to the main body but only to the rear engine assembly (first picture). Landing gear assembly Using a small hobby drill, make holes trough the center of each of the ten hinges. Pin hole markers indicate where to drill on most parts (see red arrow). Using a small rod, position and glue the ten hinges as indicated in the examples below. Version 10/12/2010 Page 8

Using a 3/32 bit, carefully drill 1/4 deep holes into the four

inner rear (do not drill the four hinges underneath the side pods

in the step above and carefully secure those with super glue (see

CORRECTION: Because the rear inner hinges will receive the 0.

9 Using a 3/32 bit, carefully drill 1/4 deep holes into the four hinges at each end of the side pods and into the two hinges at the inner rear (do not drill the four hinges underneath the side pods yet). Using a hobby knife, cut six 1/4 tubes of the 3/32 aluminium tube supplied with the kit. Insert those tubes into the hole of each of the six hinges drilled in the step above and carefully secure those with super glue (see red arrow). CORRECTION: Because the rear inner hinges will receive the brass rods, it is necessary to carefully enlarge the aluminium tube with a 5/64 drill bit. Glue the following resin part under the four hinges on each ends of the side pods (see red arrow). Using a 5/64 bit, drill a 1/4 deep hole into each of the four hinges underneath the side pods (second picture). Version 10/12/2010 Page 9

On a cutting mat or cardboard base, position the

Make a temporary stand that will hold the body

Picture below is just an example of the result you

10 On a cutting mat or cardboard base, position the body and mark the emplacement of the four footpads. Make a temporary stand that will hold the body assembly at exactly 1.22 from the ground. Picture below is just an example of the result you should have a few steps later on. Version 10/12/2010 Page 10

Front struts specifications (left side shown only) This page shows the struts sub-assemblies for the FRONT landing gear. Bend and assemble the struts using the pictures below.

Use these specifications to make the right side struts, which are mirrored from the left side.

11 Front struts specifications (left side shown only) This page shows the struts sub-assemblies for the FRONT landing gear. Bend and assemble the struts using the pictures below. Rulers and grids are pictured to help you extrapolate dimensions (notice the 1/4 references). Use these specifications to make the right side struts, which are mirrored from the left side. The ends of the struts that are being inserted in the hinges underneath the side pods are bent about 130 o (second picture). The FRONT legs are made out of aluminium tubes with a brass rod. Cut tubes and rod as follow (first picture): o o o o 1.73 x 3/32 alum. tube 1.14 and 0.12 x 1/8 alum. tubes 0.68 x 5/32 alum. tube 2.95 x brass rod Version 10/12/2010 Page 11

picture). The REAR legs are made out of aluminium tubes with a brass rod.

12 Rear struts specifications (left side shown only) This page shows the struts sub-assemblies for the REAR landing gear. The ends of the struts that are being inserted in the hinges underneath the side pods are bent about 130 o (second picture). The REAR legs are made out of aluminium tubes with a brass rod. Cut tubes and rod as follow (first picture): o o o o 1.61 x 3/32 alum. tube 1.10 and 0.08 x 1/8 alum. tubes 0.68 x 5/32 alum. tube 2.95 x brass rod Version 10/12/2010 Page 12

Struts fabrication example (use as reference to build all

a 0.079 brass rod (supplied with the kit) and a resin

Cut the following parts from the 1/8 plastic tube: 2 x 1/4

Using a nail or other fixed guide, fully bend the 0.

13 Struts fabrication example (use as reference to build all four struts) For each strut you will need a full length of a brass rod (supplied with the kit) and a resin sleeve as shown below. Cut the following parts from the 1/8 plastic tube: 2 x 1/4 and 2 x 1/8 tubes. Using a nail or other fixed guide, fully bend the brass rod by hand at approximately the third of its length. Bend it completely with pliers and at approximately 1/4" from the elbow, move apart each side at the correct angle (refer to appropriate struts specifications in pages above ) Version 10/12/2010 Page 13

Insert the resin sleeve and four plastic tubes

Mark where to bend the rod using tape (see red

Using a 1/16 bit, drill a hole trough the struts

Test-fit the strut onto the main body OFTEN and

14 Insert the resin sleeve and four plastic tubes (cut in steps above) into the brass rod BEFORE going any further. DO NOT glue these parts at this point. Mark where to bend the rod using tape (see red arrow). Using a 1/16 bit, drill a hole trough the struts elbow. Test-fit the strut onto the main body OFTEN and make adjustments as needed. DO NOT glue anything at this point. Assemble the aluminium leg as shown on the pictures above. Detail the main cylinder with stripes of tape. Notice that the rear legs are a little shorter than the front ones (marked with a yellow tape). Version 10/12/2010 Page 14

15 Test-fit the leg along with the resin parts shown in the second picture (see red arrows). At this point, glue the resin sleeve and the plastic tubes on the brass struts. To position these parts correctly refer to the struts specifications in earlier pages. Version 10/12/2010 Page 15

To make the struts brace, cut brass rods and plastic

Glue the plastic tubes onto each ends of the brass

079 brass rod (FRONT) 4 x 1/4 of 1/8 plastic tube

braces to take measurements and cut each ends at the

Use a rolled up piece of sand paper to make rounded

16 To make the struts brace, cut brass rods and plastic tubes as indicated bellow. Glue the plastic tubes onto each ends of the brass rods but only HALF WAY IN as shown on the first picture. o o o 2 x 1.46 of brass rod (REAR) 2 x 1.38 of brass rod (FRONT) 4 x 1/4 of 1/8 plastic tube With the struts temporarily in place, hold the braces to take measurements and cut each ends at the right angle (see red arrows). Use a rolled up piece of sand paper to make rounded joints (second picture). At this point glue the struts, legs and the following resin parts (see red arrows) to the main body assembly. Version 10/12/2010 Page 16

VTOLs engine assembly Using a 3/32 bit, drill 3/16 deep

the ends of the side pods (see red arrows).

45 pipes from the 3/32 plastic tube WITH the rod inside.

paralleled to the side pods (and not perpendicular to the

Side/Rear Using a 1/4 bit, carefully drill a 1/4" deep hole

17 VTOLs engine assembly Using a 3/32 bit, drill 3/16 deep holes into each of the four VTOL pods AND also underneath the ends of the side pods (see red arrows). Markers indicate where to drill on each part. Cut four 0.45 pipes from the 3/32 plastic tube WITH the rod inside. Glue these pipes into each of the four VTOL pods. DO NOT glue them to the main body yet. Notice on the second picture that the VTOL pod pipes are paralleled to the side pods (and not perpendicular to the ground) so drill holes and install the VTOL pods accordingly. Right side/rear Right side/front Left side/front Left Side/Rear Using a 1/4 bit, carefully drill a 1/4" deep hole in the center underneath each of the four VTOL pods (where the bells will be inserted). With the landing struts in place, adjust the VTOL pods to make sure they fit properly. If needed, smooth out and repair any dents to the struts (Flex files are great tools for that ) Version 10/12/2010 Page 17

Footpads assembly Glue the toes to the four pads as show below and make

it (second picture). Glue the footpads in place.

making sure the two sections align correctly.

parts as show below on each side of the rear engine support (see red

18 Footpads assembly Glue the toes to the four pads as show below and make a hole in the center of each footpad, for the legs to sit properly into it (second picture). Glue the footpads in place. Dorsal pod assembly Assemble the dorsal pod (two parts) carefully by making sure the two sections align correctly. Position the dorsal pod onto the main body and glue the small resin parts as show below on each side of the rear engine support (see red arrow). Those parts are leaning against the dorsal pod. DO NOT glue the dorsal pod onto the body yet. Version 10/12/2010 Page 18

Main tanks assembly Cut the resin bells pipes so that

Using a 1/16 bit, drill 5/8" deep holes where the

19 Main tanks assembly Cut the resin bells pipes so that they fit correctly onto the rear of the main tanks as shown below. Refer to references at the end of this guide to see how to position the bells correctly. DO NOT glue the bells yet. Using a 1/16 bit, drill 5/8" deep holes where the saddle rods will be inserted. Markers indicate where to drill (two on each tank). DO NOT glue the saddles to the tanks yet. Version 10/12/2010 Page 19

20 Painting Apply a coat of primer before painting. The following paint scheme is suggested. Tamiya acrylic paint (XF) was used unless noted. Color WHITE RED ORANGE/RED GREY (HATCHES) SILVER (BELLS) Mix XF-2 with a few drops of XF-55 4 x XF-7 + XF-3 2 x XF-7 + XF-3 + XF-6 Model Master 4766 (FS36622) Model Master aluminium metalizer lacquer Version 10/12/2010 Page 20

Decals Use decals from the supplied sheet and from the pieces of decal films supplied with the kit. Before applying decals give your model a gloss clear coat.

21 Decals Use decals from the supplied sheet and from the pieces of decal films supplied with the kit. Before applying decals give your model a gloss clear coat. Decals settle down much better on a glossy surface. A good and cheap gloss finish is Future Floor Wax thinned with 40% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Carefully cut out decal using a sharp hobby knife or scissors. Soak decal in warm water for about 15 seconds and lay the decal on your work surface for about 30 seconds. Pre-wet the surface (using a setting solution is recommended) then slide or push the decal off the paper backing into position on your model - DO NOT peel or pull. Smooth decal surface, expelling any air bubbles and blot dry with a cloth or Q-Tip. Allow decals to dry overnight then apply a coat of flat or semi-gloss clear over the model to seal decals. Final assembly Glue the dorsal pod and the rear engine to the main body. Glue the saddles to the main tanks and fix the tanks onto the dorsal pod (use small screws to fix the saddles onto the pod ) Glue the two resin bells to the rear of the main tanks (see upper red arrow). Glue the auxiliary bells and their inserts to the rear engine (see lower red arrow). Note that the auxiliary bells have three grooves, instead of only two for the seven other VTOL bells. Glue the main bell to the rear engine and fill the interior of its socket with epoxy putty so that the bell and the brass tube are fixed together, then glue the rear bell insert over (see lower left arrow). Version 10/12/2010 Page 21

Glue the remaining bells to the model and glue the four sensor dishes

Glue the main tanks front covers (see upper arrow).

go on top (see middle arrow) and the largest go on each side (see

Final touch :o) Apply weathering using pastels sporadically, mostly on

22 Glue the remaining bells to the model and glue the four sensor dishes into the command module sockets. Glue the main tanks front covers (see upper arrow). Glue the RCS thrusters onto the command module; the smallest thrusters go on top (see middle arrow) and the largest go on each side (see bottom arrow). Final touch :o) Apply weathering using pastels sporadically, mostly on areas like nozzles, bells, thrusters and intakes. Seal the weathering with a dull coat. To enhance realism further, apply a gloss clear to the command module windows. Install the wiring on the side pods and the VTOL pods as shown below. Right side/rear Right side/front Left side/front Left Side/Rear Version 10/12/2010 Page 22

23 Sample kit (use as references for assembly) Version 10/12/2010 Page 23

24 Version 10/12/2010 Page 24

25 Version 10/12/2010 Page 25

26 Version 10/12/2010 Page 26

Blakes 7 DSV-1 Liberator

Blakes 7 DSV-1 Liberator Model kit by Masterpiece Models: www.masterpiecemodels.com Pattern Maker: Alfred Wong Casting: J&S Technologies LLC Parts List Main body 3 Main body nose vanes 4 Main body detail