PRO CYCTM PRO CYC, INC. SYSTEM 1.5 FS

Transcription

1 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Congratulations on your decision to use the world s most advanced and user-friendly cyclorama system. We have taken a great deal of care to create and ship your cyc, so please take a minute to visually inspect the crate before you sign the receipt to accept the shipment. Are there any signs of damage, including puncture holes in the crate, or shattered or stressed wood? Are the leg assemblies bent? If there is visible damage, insist that the damage be noted on your bill of lading and that either the delivery person or a representative from the delivery company be present when you open the crate. All Pro Cyc crates are custom made for each order. Pro Cyc will not honor claims for damage if the bill of lading has been signed without noting and alerting the carrier of damage to the crate or to the bundle of leg assemblies. The only exception is if the damage is internal. In that case, keep the crate so it can be inspected. Let s Assemble Your Cyc: 1. Tools You will need the following tools & supplies for assembly of the cyc: Sockets and drivers; 1/2 & 7/16 Clamps or vise grips 24 long level Carpenter s square 9/32 drill bit and drill motor 1/8 drill bit Roto-hammer with 5/32 masonry drill bits (only if attaching cyc to concrete wall or floor) Counter sink Canned air Liquid Nails construction adhesive (One ten-ounce tube for every 32 linear feet of cyc floor length) Dry mortar mix (One 80- pound bag for every 12 linear feet of cyc floor length) 3M Super 77 spray adhesive (One can for every 60 linear feet of cove-to-cove or cove to floor joint length) Framing hammer Screwdrivers (Phillips & flat) Palm sander w/60-grit & 30-grit sand paper Clean shop towels or cloths Sheetrock knife Drywall tools Spray bottle Pro Cyc s Grey Bonding Primer Paint Paint supplies The following items are used only if cyc modules need to be trimmed to length: Chalk line Circular saw Trimming Part #4C: 1/8 inch drill bit Counter sink 1 inch x 2 inch wood (to be used as a brace along cut edges) Trimming Fiberglass Parts: Sikaflex -291 Polyurethane Adhesive 2. Inventory Review your Pro Cyc module inventory and your leg assemblies to verify that you have all the pieces you need. For example, if your system is nine (9) sections long (including cove & corner sections) you will need 10 leg support assemblies. 3. Sanding the Modules Sand the entire surface of each cyc module with 60-grit sandpaper. This will provide for better paint adhesion. Sand the outside edges and the side flanges with 30-grit sand paper. This will provide for better joint-compound adhesion and help create a non-slip surface when bolting the modules together. Sanding before assembly will help make sure outside edges coming in contact with the joint compound are not missed. After sanding, clean each module with a damp cloth. Dust from the sanding process can interfere with paint and joint compound adhesion. This is also a good time to clean the sanding dust from your studio. 4. Leg Support Assembly Using 5/16-18 x 3/4 bolts, bolt together the leg support assemblies. Bolt the steel stud to the angle base (foot) so that the stud is standing on the inside bottom of the foot. Next, connect the flat bar diagonal brace. (See Figure 2 on Page 5.) Use a level or carpenter s square to make sure the foot is perpendicular to the stud. You should notice that one foot has a reversed configuration compared to the rest of the feet. This is so that each end of the cyc can have a flat, smooth side of the stud facing outward. Using 5/16-18 x 3/4 bolts, connect the flange brackets to the stud columns using the pre-drilled holes. Make sure the brackets attach to the outside (smooth side) of the studs. (See Figures 1 through 5.) If your cyc is going to be placed flush against an existing wall, the portion of the foot that extends behind the steel stud can be cut off to provide sufficient clearance. However, make sure that you PATENT PROTECTED Page 1 of 8

2 attach the top of the cyc to your permanent wall for stability. This is especially important if your cyc is a straight-wall configuration. 5. Assembling the Bottom Row You will find it easier to assemble as many cyc sections together as you can on the floor before attaching them to the corner module. To begin assembly of the cove modules, align the top and face of the first two pieces. When you are certain that both surfaces are flush, use vise grips to clamp them together. Beginning at the top of the first cove module, drill a hole through both cove modules approximately 1 from the top flange and as close to the face of the cyc as practical. Using a 1/4-20 x 1 bolt with a 1/4 flat washer on it, insert the bolt through the hole. Secure it with another 1/4 flat washer and a 1/4-20 nut. Repeat this procedure every four inches, always making sure that the faces of the parts are flush. It is best to work your way from one end to the other, that is, from the top to the bottom. At the bottom, where you will encounter the taper that rests on the floor, be certain that the washer does not prevent the cyc cove module from meeting flush with the floor. To place the bolt as close to the end of the cove module as possible (for added strength) it is acceptable to eliminate the washers on this last bolt. Connect each cove module in a like manner, including the last cove module that will be attached to the corner cove module (if applicable to your installation). If you are attaching a corner module to a straight wall, proceed to remove the cove module of the straight wall that will be attached to the corner cove module. You will need to do this with each wall that attaches to a corner, that is, on both sides of the corner. Making certain that you have the correct cove module section to attach to the corner cove module, align, clamp, drill, and attach the cove module to the corner cove using the same procedure used to attach the cove modules to each other. Once this has been done for each side of the corner cove module, you will have one cove module attached to each side of the corner cove module for the bottom row of the cyc. Next, slide two leg supports (previously assembled) into the corner group, with the flange resting on the first horizontal bracket. You will need to remove the top bolt assembly on the cyc to make this possible. Make sure the top flange has a 1/4 space between it and the vertical steel support. Before final installation, make certain that the end of the cyc can rest on the floor without being held off the floor by the tapered flange. If it is held off the floor, either cut or grind the flange taper, such that the flange no longer holds the end of the cyc off the floor. Drill through the bracket hole and the cyc. Using a 1/4-20 x 1 bolt, a 1/4 flat washer and a 1/4-20 nut, bolt the cyc to the support through the bracket. Next, clamp the diagonal bracket to the flange. (See Figure 7.) Make sure the flange is attached to the smooth side of the support foot and is resting on the floor (not the foot!). Reattach the straight cove module sections to the corner group, repeating the procedure to attach the leg support assemblies to each section where the flanges are bolted together. ***Important note: Make sure that the flange of the cove module does not rest on the foot of the leg support assembly. If it does, there will be a bow in your cyc where the cove meets the floor. Place the flange on the clear or open side of the foot. Slide the assembled group or cove row close to the area where the cyc is going to be installed, but leaving enough room for rear access. Making sure the leg support assemblies are vertical, drill through the hole in the diagonal bracket and through the flange. Using a 1/4-20 x 1 bolt, secure the diagonal bracket to the flange. You may want to remove the bolts that hold the flanges together in this area. If you don t remove them, make sure it is the bolt head that is up against the diagonal bracket and not the shank end. Repeat this procedure on every leg support. Remove the clamps. 6. Going up Attach each of the vertical cove modules above the corner cove module, using the same method used to attach the cove module pieces together. Always make sure that the adjoining surfaces are flush. After the corner modules are all bolted together, begin installing the flat modules. The flat modules come pre-drilled. Begin on the first row of flat modules, working from the corner outward. Make sure that the faces of the flat modules are flush with the ground row (cove modules) then clamp them in place. Drill through the existing holes in the flat modules into the cove modules in the ground row and bolt them together as in previous procedures. Make sure the faces of the flat modules are flush with each other, and then bolt them together using the holes provided. To secure the flat modules to the leg support assemblies, drill through the brackets, making sure PATENT PROTECTED Page 2 of 8

3 the flat modules are vertical. Bolt the flat modules to the brackets. For subsequent rows, simply repeat these steps. Once the cyc is fully assembled and prior to mudding and sanding, the unit should be moved into place. When moving the cyc always push from a low position so as not to tip it over. The feet are not designed to prevent tipping during movement of the cyc. It is a good idea to tie (brace) the cyc to your permanent wall. This is absolutely NECESSARY if you have a straight wall cyc. For a straight wall cyc it is critical because the cyc is very tall in relation to the length of the base. The leg support assemblies are 14 6 tall x 21-1/2 wide at the base. Air conditioning and heating systems move a large volume of air that can be enough to make a cyc unstable. The possibility of an earthquake must also be considered. 7. Securing Cyc to the Floor To secure the cyc to the floor, begin in the corner and work toward each end of the cyc. Drill through the cove modules into the floor. The holes should be centered approximately 3/8 from the front edge of the cove module and spaced 4 apart. If you are attaching to concrete, you should use a roto-hammer and 5/32 carbide masonry drill bits to install 3/16 x 1-1/4 flat-head Phillips concrete screws. Drill the holes a minimum of 1-1/2 deep. If you are fastening into a wood floor, you should use 1/8 drill bits to install #10 x 1 flat-head Phillips wood screws. On the face of the cyc, countersink each hole with a countersink bit so that the head of the screws will end up below the surface of the cyc. Before installing the screws blow out each hole with canned or compressed air. Pro Cyc recommends using multipurpose construction mastic, such as Liquid Nails, between the cove module and the floor when fastening. 8. Finish the Joints and the Tapered Edge at the Floor The tapered edge at the floor may be done either simultaneously with the joint mudding or subsequent to the joints. The completed feathered edge at the cyc-tostudio floor transition will typically extend 4 to 6 in front of the front edge of the cyc modules. This feathered edge completes the radius of the cove module. The process for finishing the joints and the tapered edge at the floor is the same: Make sure that the surfaces of all modules are properly sanded (see Step 3.) and wiped down in order to remove sanding dust. Use a self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape on the joints. Be sure to press the tape into the crack with your finger as you apply the tape. Lightly spray/mist the recessed joint areas with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. Allow the spray adhesive to dry for one hour. This spray adhesive acts as an adhesion promoter for the drywall mud. Use a 90-minute drywall mud such as Durabond 90 Setting Type Joint Compound to mud the joints. DO NOT USE EASY SAND JOINT COMPOUNDS, AS THEY HAVE POOR TACKING QUALITIES. ALLOW PLENTY OF TIME FOR THE MUD TO COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE APPLYING SUBSEQUENT COATS. This is because moisture can only escape through the face of the joint. Wet sand or dry sand the joints and re-coat with the 90-minute mud. Wet or dry sand again. For the third and final coat, use a regular box or bucket mud, such as Beadex All Purpose Joint compound, to float out the seams. Sand and wipe down the cyc one last time before painting. 9. Reinforce the Tapered Edge at the Floor If there is room between the freestanding cyc wall and your building wall, it provides additional support to the cyc to put dry mortar mix underneath the area where the cyc meets the floor. Do this to a height of approximately 1-1/2 as depicted in the drawing below. Use a spray bottle to spray water on the back side of the mortar mix and allow mortar to set. 10. Prime & Paint the Cyclorama Wipe the entire cyc with a clean damp cloth. It is now ready to be primed. Apply one generous coat of Pro Cyc s Grey Bonding Primer using a 9 roller with a 3/8 nap. Use a 3 roller in the corner area. Paint your cyc with either a roller or an airless spray gun. See Pro Cyc s Helpful Construction Hints (available for download on our website) for useful tips on painting your cyc with a roller. Repaint as often as necessary over the life of the cyc. Clean between each coat. Wearing surgical booties and/or putting plastic on the floor coves during rehearsal or studio prep will PATENT PROTECTED Page 3 of 8

4 prolong the time between new coats of paint. 11A. Trimming Your Cyc to Fit Your Studio Flat Modules (Part #4C): Snap a chalk line at the desired length and use a circular saw to cut the module to the size needed. After cutting to size, Part #4C will need to be braced to keep it flat. Cut a 1 inch x 2 inch strip of wood to a length that allows it to just fit between the flanges and flush with the cut edge. Clamp the wood in position and use a 1/8 inch drill bit to drill through the plastic module and into the center of the wood strip every four inches along the length of the cut edge. Countersink each hole with a countersink bit so that the head of the screws will end up below the surface of the cyc. Fasten the wood to the plastic module using #10 x 1 inch flat head wood screws. Next, cut the remaining part one inch from the flanged end so you can re-attach the flange. Clean off any burrs or debris from the fiberglass before using Sikaflex-291 Polyurethane adhesive to fasten the flanged end behind (under) the cut-tolength module. Clamp the parts together until the glue is dry. You will need to trim the floor and/or wall side of the flange back to the point where it will allow you to align the face of the trimmed module with the face of the adjoining module. 12. Questions? Please give us a call at: (503) You can also us at: info@procyc.com Instructions, videos, schematics, helpful construction hints and other recommendations can be found on our website: Cover the screw heads with drywall mud when finishing the joints and tapered edge at the floor. (See Step 8). 11B. Trimming Your Cyc to Fit Your Studio Fiberglass Parts (Part #1.5BF; #1.5BFE; & Part #1.5CE) Snap a chalk line at the desired length and use a circular saw to cut the module to the size needed. PATENT PROTECTED Page 4 of 8

5 PATENT PROTECTED Page 5 of 8

6 Figure 2. PATENT PROTECTED Page 6 of 8

7 Bracket Attachment Examples Figure 3. Figure 4. Figure 5. PATENT PROTECTED Page 7 of 8

8 Assembly Technique Suggestions Figure 6. Figure 7. Figure 8. Figure 9. PATENT PROTECTED Page 8 of 8