Hexagonal BBQ Table STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS + MATERIALS LIST

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1 Page 1 of 5 HOME SITE INDEX FAQ DIY WHAT'S NEW MAILING LIST DIY PROJECT PLANS BUILDEAZY FREE PLANS LINKS TO FREE PLANS PLANS FOR SALE EAZY FIND PLANS Scroll down for more links that are relevant to the data on this page or click here. Hexagonal BBQ Table STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS + MATERIALS LIST THE COMPLETE DIY LIST Ads b Glo pric Saw price indu OTHER DIY ALL OTHER STUFF JOKES & HUMOUR PRIVACY POLICY ADVERTISE SEARCH THE WEB SEARCH BUILDEAZY Ad Links by Google Timber king Timber Merchants Picnic Table Timber Flooring Timber Exporters This page contains a few images so might take a tick to load... About the timber sizes. All dimensions are in mm (millimetres) The timber sizes referred to in his project are ex 150x40 and ex 100x50. Ex means the nominal size which is the size of the timber before it is dressed (smooth, gauged, planed). When the timber is dressed, the actual size is then less than the nominal size. For example: 150x40 when dressed may become 140x35 actual size and 100x50 when dressed may become 94x46 actual size. The Actual sizes can vary slightly from area to area but that should not have any effect on the dimensions given through-out this project. What will vary, depending on the actual size of the timber, is the gap between each row of table top boards and seat boards. The Timber cutting list. Seat and tabletop boards. The timber used for the seat and tabletop boards, in the cutting list below is ex 150x40 dressed bevelled treated pine. This timber is available at most timber merchants and is usually used for retaining wall boards. Com thou shop grea Qua Des Con Cov Eng Com from reta com The Timber cutting list. Table frame.

2 Page 2 of 5 The timber used for the table frame, in the cutting list below is ex 100x50 dressed treated pine. This timber is available at most timber merchants. Instructions. Upper and lower frames Make up both the table top support upper frame (d, d1, d2) and the seat support lower frame (c, c1, c2), on flat ground using the materials in the cutting list above. The centre of both frames should be fixed as shown in drawing below, and the end outer points of the frames (6 each frame) should be equal distances apart. Nail two metal strap plates to the top side and to the underside of both frames (8 strap plates in all). See drawing below.

3 Page 3 of 5 To see enlarged table top and seat board lay-out plan click here Instructions. Seat and table top boards. Mark out from the centre of both frames (measurements shown in diagram below) along every arm of the two frames. These are used as guides for placing the boards. Nail the cut tabletop boards (A's) to the upper frame (D's) begining with the outer boards (longest boards). Ensure the joins are in the middle of the frame arms and equal distance from the center point of the frame. Continue around the frame with the next longest board and so on untill the table top is complete. Do the lower (seat) frame (C's) in the same way using the cut seat boards (B's). Use 90mm galvanised flathead nails to fix the boards to the frame. Drill nail holes first to keep timber from splitting. Instructions. The legs. Lay the finished table top upside down on flat ground. Position the finished seat frame upside down above the tabletop. Place packers or blocks under the seatframe so that the seatframe sits 315mm above ground. Position the legs in place as per below drawing. Hold with clamps, drill and bolt. Eazy with a Z

4 Page 4 of 5 MATERIAL USED FOR AMOUNT ex 150x40 bevelled dressed treated pine tabletop boards and seat boards 32 metres ex 100x50 dressed treated pine frame and legs 20m m10x110 galvanised coach bolts bolting legs to frame 12 90mm galvanised flathead nails 1 kg Post comments about this project here User comments It is a great bbq table to sit at. We easily fit 6 adults and 3 children around it. Was unable to source the 150 x 40 at my timber yard (had to order specially and more expensive)so used 150 x 50 which made the table heavier (It is not one to move too often). Also used 100 mm flatheads as they didn't have 90 mm either. I think the h4 and h3 are around the wrong way in the description. A drop saw is quite useful for this project to get the angles right. Still with one I spent about 5-6 hours cutting and measuring (may be I'm slow). Putting together it helps to have 2 people as the seat and table sections are heavy. Found that car jacks were useful for getting the seat section at the right height. Could cost more than $300 for the materials. Paul I've always liked this table design but what suited my requirements was just the table (minus the benches) and provision for an umbrella. The former wasn't all that difficult to figure out... switch the frames over and lose the seating "gap" allowance from the dimensions. Finishing with a centered space for an umbrella in both frames was a bit more tricky but achieved by reinforcing stringers bridging the gap left when breaking the two long 2x4 frame members. The metal strapping had to go but was replaced by screws, glue, bolts and quite a few pocket hole joints. A bonus provided by the use of these extra stringers was being saved the 90" cuts and only having 120" ones throughout. All in all a fun project that combined a good set of plans with some interesting brain work as well. I've already received many compliments for a patio table with a unique design... Brian Hughes Read what people have commented about other projects in the site click here Relevant Links

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