INSTRUCTION. for assembling a deck boat «St. Gabriel», ref. МК0301, scale 1:72

Transcription

1 INSTRUCTION for assembling a deck boat «St. Gabriel», ref. МК0301, scale 1:72

2 Contents Instruction for assembling a deck boat «St. Gabriel», ref. МК0301, scale 1:72 1. General recommendations 2. Assembling the frame of the hull 3. Rough covering of the hull 4. Processing of hull 5. Finishing covering 6. Hull fittings 7. Sparring 8. Rigging 1. General recommendations Most of the details of the set cut by laser cutting. This method of cutting has two key features: the formation of dark soot on the carved details and slight taper cut. Both these features are used to construct of model. For example, when cutting boards on a deck or shell, it soot makes it easier to stand seam. Also, for example, when you install the hull plating the taper of cut allows better to fit the strips of the shell to each other without removing the bevel. Side of the part, to which fell down laser beam at the time cutting, will be called the party of cut. When cutting parts, engraving is applied only by the party of cut. This term will be used regularly in the instruction further. When assembling the frame of hull and rough shell, soon to clean off is not necessary, since all will be closed roughing and finishing coverings accordingly. In places adjoining the cut line to the flat surfaces the cutting line can handle a little sandpaper for a snug fit to the plane. Before removing of the part from the plates, be sure to number them in pencil on the front side in accordance with the scheme of arrangement of the parts in the plates. Attention! Front side many of the parts is the side, opposite the side of the cut. Accordingly, these items must be numbered from the outside, the reverse side of the cut. Example roughing and finishing covering. We do not recommend you to check out all parts of the plates at once. Carefully read the instruction, schedule scope of work and remove only the necessary details. Material on the plates of a thickness exceeding 1,5 мм, in order not to damage the part, the jumpers need to make an incision on both sides. After removing the parts gently grind their places of attachment (jumpers) on the details. Attention! In the instruction text in many places, the need for removal of bevel explicitly specified will not be. At the same time on the details engraved bevel. 2. Assembling the frame of the hull 2.1. From the plate remove turning frames (5-10 R/L, R/L), the frames (17-23), false keels (2 R/L) and the putting on false keel (3, 4, R/L). From turning and straight frames clear bevel, where it is drawn (fig. 1). From frames (17-23) bevel is desirable to remove more precisely, from the others can be a bit is concentrated. Attention! Turning frames has quite fragile sites (example, the lower part of the frame 7).They are better at removing the bevel until you touch it. From false keels and putting bevel no need to remove. Remove from plates bow and stern insertions (12-15 R/L, R/L). Bevel from insertions do not need to remove On central false keel 1 to glue putting on sternpost 4 so, that its upper part was a continuation of the ledge to the false keel 1 (see fig.2). To grind off the superfluous lower corner along bottom edge false keel and glue the lower putting 3 to the false keel 1. Align the end of putting 3 along putting on sternpost 4 Next, glue the right and left false keels 2, as well as stern putting 62 and 63 (fig. 2). To control the accuracy of positioning the right and left false keels by holes and applied on the stern and bow risks. Try to glue false keels as 1

3 symmetrically as possible. Alternatively, to align the false keels in the holes you can temporary insert the appropriate (fig. 4, 5, 6) insertions In the assembled false keel glue the frame 17 and 23 and insertions 13 и 41 (right and left, see fig. 4). Pasting these insertions with frames can more accurately align the frames relative to false keel. On the frames 17 and 23 are engraved on 2 parallel lines. They are designed to more accurately placing the frames relative to the false keel. Also glue the frames 18 and 22. The accuracy placing of frame 12 is controlled by slots in the frame 23 (fig. 4). Attention! Frames 17 and 18 are glued side of the cut (bevel) to the bow, 22 and 23 to the stern At this step makes assembly the bow and stern sets of the insertions and turning frames (fig. 5, 6). It is better to hold the assembly of segments select a segment, say, the left bow, and with liquid adhesives only collect it, gluing insertions and, not waiting for complete drying of the adhesive, glue turning frames. Gluing must be very carefully not be allowed to enter and drying of glue in the slots of insertions dried, it can interfere with the proper installation of turning frames. We recommend that before gluing required to assemble segment of «dry», that is, without adhesive. Frames must be to enter in the slots easily and does not interfere with each other. Possible option, that the frames are inserted into slots «dry», and then the joints spreads the liquid adhesive, so that an adhesive would be got into all the cracks. Attention! Note, that the turning frames adjacent each other at acute angles. Since the thickness of the material the frames can «float», the neighboring frames can interfere with each other to sit tight all the way into end of the slot in the insertions. To avoid this, the pilot of «dry» assembles to grind off the needed edge of the dorsal sides of corresponding frames (example at fig. 1 passage marked with a yellow). The procedure of gluing insertions: At first in the bow is glued insertion 14, so that you can to squeeze it tightly to the already glued insertion 13. Then glued insertions 12 and 15. In the stern to the insertion 41 on each other glued insertions 42, 43, 44, then 40, 39, 38. Then glued insertion 45. Attention! Although all the insertions marked with the letters R or L, just in case, here is a rule of gluing: they are all glued the cut side down, except the insertions 38. Rule gluing the turning frames: they all turned the cut side of the bow, except for stern turning frames 33. Attention! Planting density of the turning frames (especially in the stern) can be conveniently controlled by the smoothness of the line scratches, indicating top and bottom of the rubbing strip (see fig. 1). It is also convenient to control the correct position of the turning frames using the marks made by pencil on the ends of the frames. For this purpose, each bow and stern turning frames draw a pencil line continue the lower edge of the cutout for the horizontal insertions as shown on the left. At the point of intersection of this line and the face of frame to make a note, that when installing the frame should be combined with the line of lower plane of the respective insertion Glue steps of the mast 11 (fig. 5) and frames (19-21) (fig. 7). Frame 21 is glued to the aft of the cut side, rest to the bow. Without waiting for the drying glue to the frames, glue stringers 46 (fig. 6). End face of stringers need a little rounded, in accordance with a form of frames. Also glue fastening for window-panes (16 R/L) (fig. 10) and bow and stern additional insertions (24-25 R/L) (fig. 7). The holes for the window panes need to grind off needle file on the outside bevel at the cone to install them on the hull (fig. 16). The edges of window glasses 167, you need to grind off at the opposite cone. Taper glass will lock into the desired depth and do not fell inside. Remove the blue protective film from plastic of window. 2

4 3. Rough covering of hull 3.1. Cut to size and glue to 6 strips of the rough covering 220 (fig. 8) on each side of the hull. Before gluing of the strip need to hold its a few minutes in water to give them greater flexibility. Strips we recommend to fix nails 242 with a tool for sticking nails (nailer). Nails should not bury the entire length (fig. 8-10), so that after the glue has dried you can easily pull from the rough shell On the strips of the rough covering (58-61 R/L) with a pencil mark their direction and the number. On the scheme location of details in the plate the ends of strips, which must look to the stern, marked with the letter «K». Attention! These strips are glued back side of the cut outside, so they too must be mark on the reverse side. Attention! Strips 58 and 59 have longitudinal slits to improve their flexibility. Large bridges between the slits do not need to cut Glue first upper strip of the covering 58 on each side of the hull and to fix it with nails. It is positioned by lower edge of the middle insertions of bulwark (50-53 R/L) (fig. 9). Insertions at this stage do not need to glue just insert them «dry» for positioning the first strip. Insertions of bulwark after installation of the strip must be removed Consistently the other strips of the shell glue from top to bottom (fig. 10). The width of the last strip 61 is given with a reserve. If necessary, it should narrow to its bottom side Abundantly grease of the glue all the rough shell the inside to give it added strength to the bend. Allow the hull to dry at least 12 hour Glue the decks (47 and 48), fixing their nails to make the necessary longitudinal and transverse bending (fig. 12) Place a few minutes in warm water bow and stern insertions of bulwarks (49, 54, 55). Once they will acquire the necessary flexibility to bend and glue them (fig. 11). The degree of the bending to control, putting insertions in place of their installations (fig. 12, 13). If necessary, sharpen their edges. If in the process of the soaking plywood to delaminate the beginning just glue the problem area Glue assembled bow and stern insertions of bulwarks (fig. 12, 13). Their inner part should coincide with the interior of adjacent top-timbers. When gluing the bow insertions, insert anything into the slot of stem, in order to insertions 54 did not break top-timbers during installation. Attention! Make no mistake, when installing stern insertion 49. It should stand as shown in fig. 11 a thinner part over the hole is directed upward Glue the middle insertions of the bulwarks (50-53 R/L) (fig. 9, 13). Their upper part is positioned so that the internal line of the insertions coincided with the beginning of a «step» in the adjacent to the insertion top timber (fig. 13) Check the ease of entering the top part of frames in slots false gunwale. If necessary, grind off the plane frame of the needle file, but not false gunwale slots. Soak in water and gently glue false gunwale (56-57 R/L) (fig. 14). After it dries glue additional top timbers (30-32) (fig. 14), which in cross section have the shape of the curve trapezoid. Let the hull dry. After drying the hull is ready to processing. 4. Processing of the hull 4.1. We recommend that you start to handle the hull with coarse sandpaper on stern and bow insertions, as they are made of birch plywood, which is stronger compared with lime, from which is made covering of the middle part of hull. Then you can start skins finer sandpaper also the rest parts. Check the correctness of the hull form need to bevel on the frames and insertions. Be careful with the aft part of the sternpost area. Flatness of hull during the processing of difficult places of the stern convenient to control, putting him a thin strip in either direction a strip should lie smoothly without dips and knolls (fig. 16). Also do not forget to handle the false gunwale (56-57 R/L) and the inside of the bulwark (at the top timbers) (fig. 14) After processing hull can glue remnants of strip 220 and waste linden plywood plates 1,6мм in the slots between frames and insertions, cut into their respective size pieces. After drying, the projecting parts of insertions in the slots need sending (fig. 18, 19). These inserts will help to more accurately handle the hull and more accurately put finishing covering After the final processing of hull to the keel and sternpost glue putting from veneer (70 and 71, fig. 15). Putting 70 is put to the stern of the restriction. Puttings will be needed during the installation finishing covering Put a strip of paper between the marks on the false keels and central frame and draw on it 2 parallel lines (fig. 19). These lines are necessary to position the cutting finishing covering In the pre-grind off hole in the cone windows glue the glasses 167 (fig. 16, 19). You can then proceed to finishing covering adhesion. 3

5 5. Finishing covering of the hull 5.1. Take the plate with cutting of shell and, not remove from them parts, draw a pencil on it two parallel lines on the marks (see fig. 20). The lines should be carried out on the front side, for some strips of the shell this side, reverse cut side (see hereinafter referred to as). Positioning of finishing in the rough shell is just using the combination of these lines and lines, drawn on the rough shell (see fig ). Attention! Strips finishing covering P1-P17 R/L glue cutting side to the hull, so the lines should be done in pencil on the reverse side of cut, which will be outside Attention! Before gluing the all elements of the veneer, we recommend that you first to spread them pasted side of a thin layer of liquid white glue. After drying, they will gain additional strength and elasticity. Soaking with water, they can be bent are less likely to break. Remove from the plates covering elements 64, 65 and 69 R/L and sanding remnants of jumpers the fine sandpaper (fig.54). Soak and bend them to shape of hull (see fig ). How to bend the veneer of arms is shown in fig. 53 of the photo instruction. Begin to glue covering from element 65 (see fig. 22). At the stern this board put up on the top of the line of marks on turning frames (see fig. 1). Without waiting for the glue, glue item 64. When gluing element 64 the other side trim in place of the joint, in order to joint got exactly the center of the hull. Glue the rough rubbing strip 69 and start to cover symmetrical the hull covering boards P1 P17 (R/L) (fig. 25). Covering is recommended to put alternately first board on one side, then the same board to another and so on. Control the symmetry of installation boards left and right sides of the bow and stern on the position on the elements of insertions. This will help to more smoothly glue boards. The last board P17 compensation, its width is given with reserve After drying the shell gently cut slots under the stem, keel and sternpost (see fig. 28 и 33). Sands and varnish exterior shell is better a little later after gluing the finishing deck and interior finishing shell Glue the finishing deck 88, positioning it in the markup on a rough deck (fig. 26). Attention! We strongly recommend to glue the deck, using adhesive on the anhydrous bases (for example, БФ-2 ). It is advisable to choose the glue to the maximum setting time, and before the final gluing grounded with adhesive glued surfaces. Attention! It is possible to use water-based glue (for example, white glue), but in this case, the following problem: When spread coating the adhesive surface of the veneer, the material expands in size, especially in the transverse direction. If you apply the glue on the floor of the finishing deck and at once attach it to the rough deck, then cut of holes in the floor because of the swelling of veneer does not coincide with the holes in the rough deck. To avoid this problem, you MUST pre-spread of the underside of the floor to the gluing coat of the white glue and allow it to dry COMPLETELY. After spread coating parts can bend that s okay. After drying veneer to restore 95-98% of its former size. Dry adhesive creates a protective layer against water penetration into the pores of the veneer the final gluing. After the glue has dried attach the flooring on the rough deck and make sure the holes match of the flooring with the corresponding holes and marking on the rough deck. Also, to reduce the effect of the residual expansion the finishing deck can be cut along the seams of planks in 3 parts. Before final gluing to attach all three pieces of the flooring on the rough deck to control matching holes. After that spread the adhesive of the central part of rough deck and put the central part of finishing deck, controlling the matching of the holes and marking. Smooth the flooring along and BE SURE TO LET DRY COMPLETELY. If you do not give a dry completely, then gluing of the side of deck to the center, the joint may break up, when dry the central part. Smooth comfortable of wooden bars деревянным бруском, which has a rounded end face with simultaneous a hair dryer drying. Next, glue the same right and left sides of the deck plating. Almost all of the above problems can be avoided, if you use glue on the anhydrous basis On the covering of the bulkhead 67, pre-sanding of fine sandpaper glue the door of the entrance vestibule 79 (see fig. 26 and 32). The hinges of the door can be blackened with ink, pant and felt-tip pen. Glue the covering of the bulkhead 67 on the hull Then you can glue the poop deck plating 89. It is overlapping on the bulkhead 67. 4

6 It should also be glued on the technology of the main deck with a preliminary application and drying of the protective layer of glue Glue the inner coverings 66 and 68 (fig. 26). End face of covering 66 is inserted into the gap between the finishing deck and bulwark. If it is clogged with glue a little clean it Now all the finishing covering can be to sand the fine sandpaper and varnish. We recommend using the semi-gloss water-base varnish. Do not forget to process the hole of the helm port for the tiller, giving it neat oval shape Remove from plating rubbing strip parts 98 and 99, after inflicting on them marking as well as on the other finishing covering boards. Attention! Rubbing strips located on a plate, made of fan-line. The bottom plate is treated of the white glue to reduce possible separation of the material. Therefore, all parts are glued just the lower side (reverse side of the cut). Do not confuse! Spread white glue, soak and bend your hands (fig. 53) rubbing strips to the bend of the hull (fig. 27) Glue rubbing strips 98 and 99 on the hull over an installed rubbing strip 69 (see fig. 23 and 29). Please note that on the strips 99 of the outer layer of rubbing strip marked places for future of the installation of the nails and eyebolts Once dry, trim rubbing strips in the place of installation of stem 115 and stern-post 117 so that they are well inserted in their slots (see fig. 33). Process the end of rubbing strips. To do this, we recommend using fine sandpaper, gluing to a stick (see fig. 27) Drill holes for a rigging and oar ports as shown in fig. 29а. Holes for oar ports, we recommend you drill first a smaller diameter borer, and then bore fine sandpaper, rolled into a tube it will reduce the probability of cracking of the veneer Glue window frame 110. If you broke it or you do not like the color, you can use the spare elements 75. Glue the planks (fig. 29). Before gluing of planks and frames of windows, desirable scratching the varnish coat in place glued for better adhesion surfaces Make a stem as shown in fig. 30. In places, crossing the red line, nails are not driven; there at a latter will be inserted eyebolts. Holes for nails 241 are drilled and countersinked, not drive nails without boring the hole, and the part may break. Part 187 is necessary to bend as shown in Figure 30 and attach with glue for metal. Nails 241 are driven not entirely, but only cut off at an acute angle the upper third with the cap Install the waterway and overhead boards as shown in fig. 31 and 32. Install the covering 81, 114 of the entrance vestibule Glue the stem, keel and stern-post as shown in fig. 33. Attention! Stem, keel and stern-post are glued only after the installation of the finishing covering, rubbing strips and plank-boards 106 on the sides. You can then glue gunwale. Each element of the gunwale (except for the bow) consists of 2 identical layers. Bow part of the gunwale consists of the parts First, glue the bow of the gunwale and install it. Then glue the gunwale in the following sequence: first part 103 (both layers), then 113, then 104 and 105 (see fig. 34 and 35). Glue the roof of vestibule 80, with installed on its hinges 189. (Fig. 33, 34) Attention! Gunwale is glued so that acted outside about 0,8 мм. Handle the outer and inner parts of the gunwale fine sandpaper so that outside of the hull uniformly acted 0,5-0,7 мм; 0,3-0,4мм inside. 6. Hull fittings Preliminary recommendations: On the ship, all metal parts made of iron and had a dark grey color. So if you have the opportunity, you can make of brass blackening chemically or paint it black. But do not necessary. Do what tells you the aesthetic sense Very carefully remove the frame of the rowing ports 112 (given with a reserve) and install them in corresponding places around the holes, after cutting through the strips to them 106, 108 (see fig. 35 and 36). Recommendations: Framing of the rowing ports, as well as other small pieces of veneer glue conveniently as follows. The tip of sharp knife pinhole detail on the front side gently spread the liquid glue with a fine wire the 5

7 reverse side of the detail and attaches it to the right place. Holding (pressing down) the detail with tweezers, put away the knife. Glue pads 125. The step of the pads must lie on a ledge of gunwale. In the pads (marked with green circle), drill a hole diameter of 1.5 мм for fixing leeboard (see fig. 36) Cut into planks the places for knee of the cathead 161 and for anchor pads 111 (see fig. 37). Install the eyebolt 179 on the stem In the gunwale to cut the seats for anchor pads and install them. They consist of 2 identical layers. Drilled holes and type in the decorative nails 241 in rubbing strip. Nails should be cut at an acute angle cutter for 2/3 of the length (the cutting off part will be used in future). Do not hummer nails into holes of fixing of the eyebolt of vang and futtock iron of backstay (Draw 2, Sheet 1). In the anchor pads drill a hole for the hawses 239 diameter of 2.5 мм. Recommendations: Cut nails from wire 238 or scraps of nails 241 should be with a knife rolling transverse motions in a single location on hard rubber (Fig. 56). Then at the end of a nail there is a small cap Fit to bevel and install the bow knees (see fig. 38) and install on them nails 241 (see fig. 47) Assemble the hinges of the rudder and rudder as shown in fig. 39 and 40. Hinges rudder assemble steps are shown in Fig. 39. The axis of the rudder hinges is made from scrap of nail 241 and glued with adhesive (soldered) into the hole. From wire 238 make the eyebolts 222 of the stern flagstaff fixing and lock of the termination part of tiller, which is inserted into the hole of detail 159. Tiller can be blackened by paint or comical means. Helm tiller 168 smoothly handled with sandpaper and painted black. Before painting the helm of the tiller can be dipped in liquid glue and let dry. Hinges of rudder are connected by a trimmed nails Assemble leeboard as shown in fig. 41 and 42. Note in Fig. 41 red shows, where you have to remove the bevel. By the end face the leeboard bind band 181. In Fig. 42 show with mark the location of band. The band 181 first bends in the form and glued to the end of leeboard. Then the holes in the band 181 are drilled with borer diameter 0,6мм to a depth 2-3 мм in the end. From wire 238 Ø 0,6мм cut nails and glue them in the holes of band 181. The outer fittings also glue adhesive for metal, combining them holes with a holes in leeboard 147 and hummer nails, made from scraps of nails 241, which removed the cap. The lower part of nail of the correct size cut with a knife rolling motion on hard rubber (Fig. 56) Make a stern driver 225 from wire Ø1,0 мм as shown in fig. 43 and 46. Attention! Before you install of the second part 190, on the stern driver 225 is necessary to put sling 175, prebent one ring «eight» with respect to other at 90 degree (Fig. 43) At the end of the channels 146 drill holes for fixing. Fix need for glue and pins, cut with a knife from wire 238 Ø 0,6мм. We recommend sharpening pins 255 to give them a better scale, as shown in fig. 43. To round part of the cathead as shown in fig. 43. In knees 161 of cathead drill tow holes for fixing nails, cut with knife from scraps of nails 241, which removed the cap Make the stands by falconets (see fig. 44). They have a section an octahedron. Glue hoop a narrow strip of black paper on them according with fig. 44. To black paper can paint or felt-tip pen Make a main hatch 134; similar hatch 135 and forward hatch 221 (see fig. 45). The surface of the main hatch must be processed so, that the transverse end face it repeated deflection deck. Comings 145 show a necessary processing. In the eyebolts 179 of main hatch inserted rings, made from wire 238. The diameter of the rings about 1.5 мм. Hinges 188 of the entrance hatch cover are bent as in fig Install the rudder hinges on the hull according with fig. 48. Fixing of hinges and binding of the rudder tiller is glued and nails, cut with a knife from wire 238. Install the wooden cleat 237 in accordance with fig. 46 and 49, as well as drawings. No mistake with the angles of the rotation of wooden cleat. Cleats are attached with glue and pins, cut with a knife from wire Install the mooring bollards 141 and 142 and falconet stands in accordance with fig. 46 and 49. In the center of the upper end of falconet stand drill a hole Ø 0,7мм for fixing the swivels 207, 208. Install the eyebolts 178 into the holes around the mast, pre-drilled to a depth of 3 мм. Glue the pistons 240 in the deck. In the bow install the knees of the catheads 161 to the outside of the bulwark, and the inside of the bulwark install cathead stands 140. Knees 161 attached with glue and nails, cut with a knife from scraps of nails 241, which removed the cap. 6

8 Install the eyebolt 178 on the upper part of the stem and eyebolt of water back stay on the board near with cathead 179 (see fig. 47). Install the forks of bowsprit 164 and hawses 239. Forks of bowsprit 164 attached with glue and nails, cut with a knife from scraps of nails 241, which removed the cap. Install the catheads Assemble the ladder from parts as shown in scheme fig. 49. Assemble the pipe galley from parts and 127 as shown in scheme in this figure. The red dashed line shows the line of processing. Assemble the windlass 209 (instruction and parts are individual set). Assemble the pumps 210 (instruction and parts are individual set) Glue ladder and all the hatches. In the pistons install the bow driver 224 with inserting in them sling 175, twisted by 90 degree, as in the case of stern driver. Glue bow bitts 133, has pre-sharpen by bevel the hole for install of bowsprit 214, as it should be installed at an angle. Install the eyebolts 179 on waterway in the bow as shown in fig. 49 and drawings Glue the windlass and the pipe galley. At the ends of the windlass stands can insert parts of nails, cut with a knife from scraps of nails 241, which removed the cap, to demonstrate mounting bolts. Wind on the windlass anchor ropes 243, one it end lower in the pistons in a similar hatch, another pass through hawses. Between the windlass and bitts 133 install lock bar (comes complete with windlass). Glue bitts 143 and pin-racks on the bitts 165. Attention! This construction, as well as pumps, we recommend that while in the hull does not glue, since otherwise the rig will be very uncomfortable to knit Install the pins 255, falconet swivels and channels 146. Install the chain-plates 206 with crimped those deadeyes 234. Chain-plates are placed according with the slop of shrouds and nailed bottom with cutting off nail 241 with cap. To control the angle of slop chain-plates use a thread stretched between the central hole of deadeye and masthead (the place where the shroud eye-splices are imposed) Glue eyebolts 198 in the keel-blocks by oars 212 and install them according to Fig. 49 and drawings. Install blocks of the leeboards 131 and 132 with glue and nails, cut with a knife from scraps of nails 241, which removed the cap. In blocks 132 with glue insert the eyebolts 198 (see fig. 49). At the installation sites of eyebolts previously drilled the holes Ø 0,6мм The hull ready to be installed spars and rigging. 7. Sparring Before you start making of spars and rigging sew the sails according to the drawings and sew boltrope and cringles from the thread 245 and glue reef-point of mainsail from thread 246. Attention! In Fig.50 of the photo instruction are photos of some of the key elements and techniques of manufacturing of the spars. Familiarize yourself with them before making spars Make a mast 213 from round strip for drawing 1 and install on it the all blocks, cleats, pins and other parts according with the notations on the drawing Make a bowsprit 214 from the laser cut work piece for the drawing 1. Give a square along the length of the bowsprit. Then attaches a square cross-section shape of the octahedron and finally round the edges. Deepen the lower oblong hole of the pulley, like a slotted the laser. Make by drawing 1 from scrap of mahogany veneer and glue to the bowsprit stop-cleats 263. Adjust the rear end of bowsprit 214 for mounting hole in the bow bitts pad 133 (see Fig. 50), so that the bowsprit, passing through the forks 164, stood at a right angle. Glue the flagstaff knee 153; glue to it the cap 154 and helm of the cap 144. Install eyebolt 198. Make the flagstaff from work piece 160 at a drawing. Glue the flag pole 169 to the flagstaff, sanding it fine sandpaper and paint in black. Adjust the thickness of the lower part of flagstaff the fine sandpaper by diameter of the cap hole. Try flagstaff and lay aside it Make a lower topsail yard 215 and upper topsail yard 216 from round strip for drawing 1. Tie to the upper topsail yard 216 the topsail 256 with gaskets of thread 246 (Drawing 4, Sheet 2 and Scheme 14). Tie to the clews of topsail blocks 229 with thread Make a boom 218 from the laser cut work piece for the drawing 1. Give a square along the length of the boom. Then attaches a square cross-section shape of the octahedron and finally round the edges. Deepen the lower oblong hole of the pulley, like the upper, a slotted the laser. Glue the jaws

9 Glue on the boom ear and jaws hoops 250, made of paper strip of width 1 мм panted black. Tie to one of the holes of jaws the thread 246 length of 50 мм and the string on it 5 beads of the hank thimble 249. Fix the beads the knot, so they do not get lost. Glue and nail the cleats with the pins, made of wire 238, pre-drilled the holes Ø 0,6мм in the boom. Install the eyebolt to drawing, pre-drilled the holes Ø 0,6 мм in the boom Make a gaff 217 from round strip to drawing 1, glue the jaws 163. Glue hoops 250 on jaws, made of paper strip 1 мм wide, painted black. Tie to one of the holes of jaws the thread 246 length of 50 мм and the string on it 4 beads of the hank thimble 249. Fix the beads the knot, so they do not get lost. Install on the gaff all the blocks and the eyebolts to drawing. Tie to the gaff mainsail with gaskets of thread 246 (Drawing 4, Sheet 2, and Scheme 14) Make from the work piece 219 the stern flagstaff and glue the flag pole 155 to drawing 1. Previously, the tip of a knife in the flag pole to exfoliate half of the thickness inner part of the laser incision of the hole and to clean it with the borer of correct diameter. 8. Rigging When manufacturing rigging of the model, the master of self selects how knitting of the knot in accordance with convenience and in accordance with their ideas about according to the look of a real. The instruction will be offered to specific the knitting knots of rigging options, which do not claim to be the best. Before installing the rigging should be prepared and installed on the spars needed some elements of the rigging. For the sake of brevity refer to the explanations and terms. SEIZING - a special type of binding from a special thin rope for a tight connection of two parallel cables. (Scheme 1). Seizing on the model is knitted the thinnest thread 247. KNOT the bend to the end of the rope or tackle, made a special way to strengthen them. (Scheme 2) You can not knit as on the scheme, and a simpler way, passed several times the end of the thread through loop of ordinary knot, tightening and fixing glue. PENDANT a shot rope with a block or thimble at the end. (Scheme 3). SLING part of the rope, wrapped around the block. (Scheme 3). PURCHASE the rope that passed through the pulley of the block (Scheme 3). LANYARD a device for tensioning gear when mounting. (Scheme 4). FUTTOCK STAVE iron rod to bind to the shrouds of the upper deadeyes to keep the deadeyes in the same plane. (Scheme 6). EYE SPLICE loop is made at the end of the rope. (Scheme 9). To conduct a rigging on the applied drawings 4-7, Schemes and Tables 1 and 2 of rigging. The drawing in a circle has the number of rigging gear as in the table 1 (a number of the gears the designations begins with the letter Т). On the drawing in the boxes specified the original number of thread by specification, with the help of it is determined the required thickness of the treads. We recommend that you stick to the following sequence: 8.1. The preparatory operations 1). Make on the mandrel Ø2,5 мм (borer) the ring for putting of gammoning 257 from wire 238 and insert it in the eyebolt 178 at the end of the stem (Drawing 2). With the help of a needle wind of a thread 247 the few turn on the sector ¼ lengths of the ring near the joint of wire and seal the thread with glue. 2). Pre-drilling a hole Ø0,6 мм, set with glue eyebolt 179 for fixing hook of the vang on the left and right side (Drawing 2). 3). Drill a hole Ø0,6 мм for fixing of the back stay chain plates 176 to the upper hole of the lower end of chain plate (Drawing 2). Nail on the right and left side the chain plate 176 the nail 241, shortened to half its length. Attention: To nail the chain plate 176 need only one hole, so that after installation and tensioning the back stay the chain plate was in line with the back stay. Then you can to fasten down a nail into the second lower hole of chain plate. 8

10 4). Make a guard to install the same distance between deadeye of shrouds from the wire 238 (Fig. 55). The guard should provide a distance of about 12 мм between the centers of deadeyes. 5). Glue the two halves of the deadeye for stay 235, aligning the holes pieces of wire 238. After the glue has dried, sand it the fine sandpaper, varnish and clean the holes with wire or a borer. 6). Put the deadeye 234 in the sling with hook 174 and crimp it with tweezers as in Fig.57 7). Make the stand of the details (Scheme 16). Places touch of details 26, 27 of the hull of model it is desirable to glue any soft material. Place the hull on the stand Shrouds 1) Insert the mast in the hole in the deck. Make a 4 pair of shrouds (Drawing 2). Put the shrouds the eye splices in the masthead in the following order (starting from the bow): - the first pair of right side; the first pair of left side; second pair of right side; second pair of left side. Fasten the guard the lower end at the first lower deadeye of right side. At the upper end of the guard fasten the upper deadeye and, going around the deadeye the shroud clockwise, to bind the deadeye to the shroud and to fix the knot a drop of glue. Next, put 2 seizing on shroud higher of deadeye in accordance with drawing 4, fasten with glue and cut off excess end of the shroud. Similarly, repeat the operation with a deadeye of the left side, then the second deadeye of the right side, of the left side, etc. Make sure that during the work mast is not twisted. 2) In accordance with Scheme 4 and Drawing 2, install between upper and lower deadeyes lanyards of the thread 246 and align the mast, pulling or releasing the lanyards. The ends of the lanyards to temporarily fix on shrouds, so that it can be easy to untie Stay and preventer stay. 1). Make from the thread 243 stay Т2 with eye splice and from the thread 244 preventer stay with eye splice (Drawing 2, Scheme 9). 2). Put the eye splice the stay Т2 on stop-cleat 151 of mast. The lower point of the eye slice should be lower then eyebolt 198 of 3-5 мм, so that no further problem with the installation of the halyard of foresail Т14 at this eyebolt. 3). With a piece of wire 238, bent by П, fix a deadeye for stay 235 in regard to the upper part of stem, passed the wire in the central holes of the deadeye and stem. The distance of the fixation to measure on the Drawing 2. 4). Wind the end of the stay around deadeye clockwise, fix the drop of the glue, place the seizing and trim the excess part of the thread. 5). Insert between the deadeye for stay 235 and stem the lanyard from thread 244 and pull the stay with a lanyard. (Drawing 2, Scheme 9). Control the slop of the mast. The end of the lanyard to temporarily fix on the stay, so that it can be easy to untie. 6). Put the eye splice the preventer stay Т3 on stop-cleat 152 of mast. Using the guard (Fig.55) for the deadeyes of shrouds set a preventer stay (Drawing 2, Scheme 9). Pull the preventer stay with lanyard and temporarily fix ends of the lanyard on it. 7). If necessary, align the mast the lanyards of shrouds, stay and preventer stay and finally fix the ends of lanyards. 8). Tie the ratlines from thread 247 to the shrouds the clove hitches in steps of 5 мм vertically (Scheme 5). 9). Tie to the shrouds the futtock stave, made of wire 238 (Scheme 6) Backstay. 1). Make the eye splice of the backstay Т6 and put on the masthead over of the shrouds (Drawing 2). Tie the upper blocks, so that the distance between blocks of tackles was about 35 мм. Spend the backstay tackles and fasten the running end to the pin of the inner side pin-racks (Drawing 3, Scheme 11) Bowsprit. 1). Put the assembled parrel 177 (see fig. 50) on the bowsprit. Insert bowsprit. Next, install gammoning (Т7), water-stay (Т4) and water-backstay (Т5) (Drawing 2, Schemes 7, 8). The bow flagstaff until to glue. Attention! Parrel 177 necessary put before the installation of the bowsprit. 9

11 8.6. Running rigging. Use in a work the Drawings 3-5, Schemes 1-3, 11-14, 1). Insert boom 218 and boom topping lift (Т16). (Drawing 3). 2). Tie mainsail to the gaff and set the gaff on the mast. Insert tackles of the gaff halyard (Т9) and peak halyard (Т10) of gaff. Tie the mainsail to the mast the gaskets (Drawing 4. Scheme 14). 3). Hang the yard 215 with the jeer of lower topsail yard (Т12) (Drawing 3, Scheme 13). 4). Mount the vang (Т17). (Drawing 3). The scheme of the holding of tackles the same as backstay tackles (Т6). 5). Hang the topsail yard 216 with tied sail with halyard of upper topsail yard (Т11). (Drawing 3, Scheme 13) 6). Mount the boom-sheet (Т8). (Drawing 3). Strapping of block 233 metal sling with hook end pin is shown in Fig ). Mount sheet of mainsail (Т18). (Drawing 4, Scheme 12). 8). Tie the foresail 260 to the stay (Т2) with gaskets and mount halyard of foresail (Т14). (Drawing 4, Schemes 12, 14). Strapping of block metal sling with hook is shown in Fig ). Mount sheet of foresail (Т15). (Drawing 4). 10). Mount the sail clifock with halyard of clifock (Т13). (Drawing 4, Scheme 11). Strapping of block metal sling with hook is shown in Fig ). Mount the bunt line of parrel (Т25) and down hauler of parrel (Т26). (Drawing 4, Scheme 11, Fig. 50). The bunt line of parrel passes through pulley of bowsprit. 12). Mount the clew line of mainsail (Т21). (Drawing 4, Scheme 3). 13). Mount the bowline of topsail (Т24). (Drawing 4, Scheme 17). Thimble 196 is bent in the middle to match the holes and glued with adhesive to metal. On the perimeter is obtained the groove, on which the thimble strapped thread ). Make and mount the oars in the keel blocks for oars on the deck and tie them for eyebolts. 15). Mount the leeboard and pass the tackle of leeboard (Т27) (Schemes 12, 18). 16). Mount the flagstaffs, flags and pennant. Recommendations. Before cutting out the flags and pennant spread of the flags very liquid white glue, that is not crisp the edge. An experiment with density of glue on a small piece of the cloth out of the flag. In the future, with hot air of hair dryer will be to give the desired shape of the flags. Attention! A ship in the port raised the bow and stern flags, and in the campaign only gaff flag and pennant. Pennant at the mast is placed with the using of halyard, passed through of the pulley of mast pole and tied to the free upper pin on the mast (Scheme 15). Stern flag is placed with halyard, passed through of the pulley in the flag pole of the stern flagstaff. Gaff flag is placed with halyard, passed through the simple block 228, tied to a gaff ear (Drawing 5). The flag is tied to halyard. The lower ends of the halyard tied together and fastened to the side cleat of boom the knot by scheme 12 without of COIL (Scheme 11, Fig. 11.5) Anchor. 1). Assemble the anchor and anchor wooden stock 166. If necessary, do the needle file deeper around the perimeter of the anchor shank in place stock attachment. At 4-5 мм mandrel (borer) make from wire 238 the anchor ring and insert it in the anchor hole. After this, wind the ring around the perimeter of the circle the thread 247 and spread liquid glue. 2). Mount the anchor in accordance with scheme 10 and Fig. 51. *** Color version of the latest option of photo instruction in PDF format e-book can be downloaded free on the website of firm «Master-Korabel» ( We believe that carefully following our instruction, you will surely assemble the proposed model and enjoy the build process and the final result. Happy sailing to you and seven feet under the keel! The manufacturer reserves the right to make unannounced changes to the design of the kit, the completing materials and instruction. 10

12 Specification [ ] of wooden kit of the Deck-boat «St. Gabriel», Ref.МК0301, scale 1:72 det. Name Quantity Size, мм Material Number of plate 1 Central false keel 1 3 HDF - Details on plate 2R, 2L Right and left false keels 1 3 plywood МК Putting on false keel lower 1 3 plywood МК Putting on sternpost 1 3 plywood МК R-10R Bow turning frames right 1 3 plywood МК L-10L Bow turning frames left 1 3 plywood МК Steps of mast 1 3 plywood МК R-15R Bow insertions right 1 3 plywood МК L-15L Bow insertions left 1 3 plywood МК R, 16L Fastening for window-panes, right, left 1 3 plywood МК Frames 1 3 plywood МК R, 24L Bow additional insertions 1 3 plywood МК R, 25L Stern additional insertions 1 3 plywood МК Support 1 3 plywood МК Top-timbers 16 3 plywood МК Top-timbers 4 3 plywood МК Top-timbers 10 3 plywood МК R- 37R Stern turning frames right 1 3 plywood МК L-37L Stern turning frames left 1 3 plywood МК R-45R Stern insertions right 1 3 plywood МК L-45L Stern insertions left 1 3 plywood МК Stringer 2 3 plywood МК Quarter deck plywood МК Main deck plywood МК Stern insertion of bulwark plywood МК R, 51R The average of the bulwark, right plywood МК L, 51L The average of the bulwark, left plywood МК R, 53R The average of the bulwark, right plywood МК L, 53L The average of the bulwark, left plywood МК Bow insertion of the bulwark, part plywood МК Bow insertion of the bulwark, part plywood МК R Stern false-gunwale, right plywood МК L Stern false-gunwale, left plywood МК R Basic false-gunwale, right plywood МК L Basic false-gunwale, left plywood МК R-61R Rough covering, right side wood МК L-61L Rough covering, left side wood МК R,62L,63R, 63L Stern putting on false keel plywood МК R, 65R Finishing outward covering of the bulwark, right 1 0,6 mahogany МК L, 65L Finishing outward covering of the bulwark, left 1 0,6 mahogany МК R, 66L Finishing inside covering of the bulwark, right, left 1 0,6 mahogany МК Finishing inside covering of the bulkhead 1 0,6 mahogany МК R, 68L Inside covering of the poop bulwark, right, left 1 0,6 mahogany МК R, 69L Rubbing strip, the first layer, right, left 1 0,6 mahogany МК The bottom putting on the false keel 1 0,6 mahogany МК Putting on the stern-post 1 0,6 mahogany МК Stop-cleats of the lower topsail-yard 4 0,6 mahogany МК Stop-cleats of the upper topsail-yard 4 0,6 mahogany МК Stop-cleats gaff 2 0,6 mahogany МК Trim of the stern windows (option 2) 8 0,6 mahogany МК P1R-P17R Finishing covering of the hull, right side 1 0,6 mahogany МК , 77,78 Details of the pipe galley 2 0,6 mahogany МК P1L-P17L Finishing covering of the hull, left side 1 0,6 mahogany МК Doors entrance vestibule 1 0,6 mahogany МК The roof entrance vestibule 1 0,6 mahogany МК R, 81L The covering entrance vestibule, right, left 1 0,6 mahogany МК ,83 Side ladder internal, external 2 0,6 mahogany МК

13 84, 85, 86 The step ladder top, middle, bottom 2 0,6 mahogany МК Pad of the stem slings 2 0,6 mahogany МК Deck plating central part 1 0,6 anegry МК R Deck plating right part 1 0,6 anegry МК L Deck plating left part 1 0,6 anegry МК Poop deck plating 1 0,6 anegry МК R, 91R, 92R, Composite waterway on the starboard side from the bow 1 0,6 anegry МК L, 91L, 92L Composite waterway on port side from the bow 1 0,6 anegry МК R, 94R Composite waterway on the starboard side of the poop 1 0,6 anegry МК L, 94L Composite waterway on port side of the poop 1 0,6 anegry МК Waterway of the bulkhead 1 0,6 anegry МК , 97 Putting boards of the poop deck 1 0,6 anegry МК R, 98L Rubbing strip 2-nd layer, right, left 1 0,6 fine line МК R, 99L Rubbing strip 3-rd the outer layer, right, left 1 0,6 fine line МК , 101, 102 Gunwale of the bow (upper, middle, bottom) 1 0,6 fine line МК Bottom part of the forward pin-rack 1 0,6 fine line МК R, 103L Gunwale of the middle part, right, left 2 0,6 fine line МК R, 105R Composite gunwale of the stern, right 2 0,6 fine line МК L, 105L Composite gunwale of the stern, left 2 0,6 fine line МК R-109R Composite plank-board, right 1 0,6 fine line МК L-109L Composite plank-board, left 1 0,6 fine line МК Trim of the stern windows (option 1) 2 0,6 fine line МК R, 111L Bow anchor pad, right, left 2 0,6 fine line МК Framing of the rowing ports 8 0,6 fine line МК The transition of the gunwale 4 0,6 fine line МК Insertion in the poop deck 1 3 mahogany МК , 116 Stem 1 3 mahogany МК Stern-post 1 3 mahogany МК Keel 1 3 mahogany МК Putting on the stem 1 3 mahogany МК Rudder 1 3 mahogany МК Rudder inserting 1 3 mahogany МК , 123 Masthead 1 5 wood МК Beam of the masthead 1 5 wood МК Leeboard pads 4 5 wood МК R, 126L Bow knee, right, left 1 5 wood МК The basis of the pipe galley 1 4 wood МК Stand bow falconet 2 4 wood МК Stand central falconet 2 4 wood МК Stand aft falconet 2 4 wood МК Block of board leeboard 2 4 wood МК Block of leeboard on the gunwale 2 4 wood МК Bow bitts with the pad of the bowsprit 1 3 wood МК Work piece of the main-hatch 1 3 wood МК Work piece of the similar hatch 1 3 wood МК Longitudinal coming of the similar hatch 2 3 wood МК Longitudinal coming of the forward hatch 2 3 wood МК Transverse coming of the forward hatch 2 3 wood МК Cathead 2 3 wood МК Stand of the cathead 2 3 wood МК Bow mooring bollard 2 3 wood МК Aft mooring bollard 2 3 wood МК Bitt 2 3 wood МК Helm of the cap of the bow flagstaff 1 3 wood МК Transverse coming of the main-hatch 2 1,5 wood МК Channels 2 1,5 wood МК R, 147L Leeboard, right, left 2 1,5 wood МК R, 148L Putting of the leeboard, right, left 2 1,5 wood МК Pad of the boom jaws 1 1,5 wood МК Knee of the pad of the boom jaws 3 1,5 wood МК Stop-cleats of the stay 1 1,5 wood МК Stop-cleats of the moose stay 1 1,5 wood МК Fixing knee of the bow flagstaff 1 1,5 wood МК

14 154 Cap of the bow flagstaff 1 1,5 wood МК Flag pole 1 1,5 wood МК Mast pole 1 1,5 wood МК Side pin-racks 2 1,5 wood МК Mast pin-racks 2 1,5 wood МК The termination part of the tiller with a hole 1 1,5 wood МК Bow flagstaff 1 1,5 wood МК Knee of the cathead 2 2 wood МК Jaws of the boom 2 2 wood МК Jaws of the gaff 2 2 wood МК Forks of bowsprit 1 2 wood МК Pin-racks on the bitt 1 2 wood МК Anchor stocks 4 2 wood МК Window glass 2 1 plexiglass МК Helm (handle) of the tiller 1 1 plexiglass МК Flag pole of the bow flagstaff 1 1 plexiglass МК Parts made by chemical milling 170 Sling with hook and nagel of 1pul. block 4 мм brass МК Sling with hook of 1pul. block 4 мм brass МК Sling with hook of 2pul. block 4 мм brass МК Sling with hook and nagel of 2pul. block 4 мм brass МК Sling with hook for dead eyes brass МК Sling «eight» brass МК Futtock of back stay brass МК Ring of the bowsprit parrel brass МК Eyebolt 1х4,2х brass МК a Eyebolt 1х4,2х2.2 on stem for gammoning brass МК Eyebolt 0.8х4,0х brass МК Hook 0,8х4,7 х0,5мм brass МК Fitting of the leeboard s end 2 0,3 brass МК ,183,184,185 External fitting of the leeboard 2 0,3 brass МК Fitting of the leeboard «asterisk» brass МК Fitting of the stem brass МК The hinges of the entrance hatch brass МК The hinges of the hatch of lid entrance vestibule brass МК Fixing aft driver brass МК Sling with hook of 1pul. block 3,5 мм brass МК Sling with hook of 2pul. block 3,5 мм brass МК Hook of the bowsprit parrel brass МК , 195 Details of the bowsprit parrel brass МК Thimble brass МК Hook 0,6х4, brass МК Eyebolt 0.8х4, brass МК , 200 The upper hinges of the rudder brass МК , 202 The middle hinges of the rudder brass МК The lower hinges of the rudder brass МК Fitting of the rudder stock brass МК Not used 206 Chain-plates brass МК , 208 Swivels of the falconet brass МК Separate sets 209 Windlass 1 - misc. 1 set 210 Pump 2 - misc. 1 set 211 Half-galley oars 8 2 wood 2 sets 212 Keel blocks for oars 4 2 wood 2 sets Rigging 213 Mast (round work piece) 1 Ø6х280 wood To make 214 Bowsprit (work piece) 1 4х125 wood To make 215 Lower topsail yard (round or square work piece) 1 3х150 wood To make 216 Upper topsail yard (round or square work piece) 1 2х110 wood To make 217 Gaff (round or square work piece) 1 2х110 wood To make 218 Boom (work piece) 1 3х162 wood To make 219 Aft flagstaff (work piece) 1 2х75 wood To make 3

15 220 Strip of the rough covering (material with reserve) х5 wood МК Separate details 221 Work pieces of the gratings for the forward hatch 8 1х3х60 pear package 222 Eyebolt for the mounting of stern flagstaff 2 Ø0,6 wire, brass package 223, 224, 225 Tiller, bow driver, aft driver 1 Ø1,0х250 wire, brass package 226 Axis of the leeboard 2 Ø1,5х15 wire, brass To make 227 Anchor 2 28х20 metal package 228 Block 1pul. (simple) 8 2,5 мм pear package 229 Block 1pul. (simple) 22 3,5 мм pear package 230 Block 1pul. (simple) 4 4 мм pear package 231 Block 2pul. (double) 2 2,5 мм pear package 232 Block 2pul. (double) 5 3,5 мм pear package 233 Block 2pul. (double) 11 4 мм pear package 234 Dead eyes 24 Ø3,5 walnut package 235 Dead eyes for stay with five eyes (glue 2 halves) 1 Ø6,0 pear 2 halves, package 236 Block «Turtle» 2 7 pear package 237 Wooden cleat 12 7,5 pear package 238 Wire 1 Ø0,6х1000 wire, brass package 239 Hawse-holes 2 Ø2,5х4х6 brass package 240 Pistons 4 Ø1,5х2,5х2 brass package 241 Brass nails Х10 brass package 242 NOT USED POSITION (RESERVE) 243 Rigging thread 2м Ø 0,8 polyester package 244 Rigging thread 5м Ø 0,6 polyester package 245 Rigging thread 10м Ø 0,5 polyester package 246 Rigging thread 10м Ø 0,3 polyester package 247 Rigging thread 20м Ø 0,2 polyester package 248 Percale cloth for sails 1 210х366 cotton package 249 Hank thimble 10 Ø 2 plastic package 250 Hoops х1 painted paper To make 251,252,253,254 Flags: the stern, bow, gaff, pennant 1 set cloth package 255 Pins wood or brass package 256 Barrels of the falconet 6 18 metal package 257 Ring of gammoning 1 In. Ø2,5 wire, brass To make 258 Mainsail 1 to drawing cotton cloth To sew 259 Topsail 1 to drawing cotton cloth To sew 260 Foresail 1 to drawing cotton cloth To sew 261 Clifock 1 to drawing cotton cloth To sew 262 Pin of the block 2 Ø0,6 wire, brass To make 263 Stop-cleats of the bowsprit 3 to drawing mahogany To make 4

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17 Deck-boat «St. Gabriel» Ref.МК0301, Scale 1:1 259 Topsail 260 Foresail Sails patterns 1/2

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19 Deck-boat «St. Gabriel» Ref.МК0301, Scale 1:1 261 Cliff 258 Mainsail Sails patterns 2/2

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