Summer Day Teddy. DecoArt Paints. Dazzling Metallics Ice Blue, Splendid Gold Sharon Chinn Page 1. by Sharon Chinn

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1 DecoArt Paints Traditions Artist Acrylics or Titanium White - DAT35 Carbon Black - DAT42 Dark Grey Value 3 - DAT41 Medium Grey Value 6 - DAT40 Burnt Umber - DAT46 Raw Sienna - DAT43 Yellow Oxide - DAT12 Naphthol Red - DAT02 Ultramarine Blue - DAT26 Multi-Surface Sealer - DATM03 Americana Acrylics Snow White - DA01 Lamp Black - DA067 Zinc - DA304 Slate Grey - DA068 Burnt Umber - DA064 Honey Brown - DA163 Mustard Seed - DA264 Naphthol Red - DA104 Ultramarine Blue - DA099 Multi-Purpose Sealer - DS17 Dazzling Metallics Ice Blue, Splendid Gold 2015 Sharon Chinn Page 1

2 Surface I used a birch plywood panel with rounded corners (8-1/2 x 11 ). You can order this surface from I like doing designs that are adaptable to a variety of surfaces. You can paint this design on any surface of your choice which has a painting area of approximately 8.5 x11 (or you can enlarge or reduce the pattern). This design would be suitable for a picnic basket lid, Roclon banner, a box lid, arched welcome sign, etc. Royal Langnickel Brushes Royal Fusion Series R3150 Flat - #2 Series R3160 Angle - 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 Series R3250 Round - #2 Series R3700 Wash - 3/4 Series 3585 Script Liner - #20/0 Royal Sabletek Series Round - #14, #20 (assorted sizes for dry brushing) Royal Soft Grip Series SG1400 Mop Brush - 3/4 (optional) Miscellaneous Supplies Star stencil with various sizes of stars 1/2 to 1 Water basin Gray graphite paper Tracing paper Fine tip stylus Wet and Wax palette DecoArt Duraclear Matte Brush On Varnish DecoArt Dimensional Effects Paintable Texture Paste PREP Base the surface with a generous coat of Traditions or Americana Multi-Surface Sealer. Let dry, then lightly sand. Base with 2 coats of Titanium White. Let dry, then lightly sand. Transfer main pattern outlines with gray graphite Sharon Chinn Page 2

3 PAINTING THE DESIGN Background We are going for a watercolor effect background of deep navy blue which is a deeper color at the outer edges and fades to nothing leaving a glow of white background around the design at the sides and top of the board. Using a 3/4 flat brush, apply a clean film of water over an area (I work in sections of about 1/4 to 1/3 of the board). Next using a 3/4 angle brush, load the long tip with a brush mix of Ultramarine Blue + a tiny touch of Black blending the colors together on your palette. Apply this color to your dampened background blending it into the water you previously applied. The area under the design will have this dark color applied from the bottom of the design down to the bottom edge of the board. At the sides and top, you with have the darkest color applied at the edges and walk it in toward the design letting it fade to nothing. As you work a section, you can tap the wet color with a large mop brush to soften your brush strokes. Don t try to develop the full strength of color in one layer, apply the color all the way around, let dry, then reapply. I built the density of color up in at least 3 layers. After the teddy bear and basket are based in you can further darken below them with floated layers of Black to create deeper shadows. Teddy Bear Base body, leg, pad of foot, sides of face, and inner ear with Dark Grey. Base arm, outside of foot, muzzle, forehead, and outer ear with Medium Grey. Soften the two colors together on the side of the forehead where the colors meet. Float shade with Black around muzzle, under hat, and under mouth, along arm on body and leg, and around edge of foot pad. Most of the teddy bear is stippled grey values that are slightly lighter than the base coat. Use the dark and medium grey values and mix in a little white as needed. Except on the bottom of foot is stippled with a gray that is a little darker to shadow. Base nose and eyes with Black. Highlight with White. Eyes are highlighted with dots at upper right and a fine crescent line at lower left. Nose has light horizontal thread lines. Float shade left side of nose with Black. Float highlight upper right side of nose with White. Dry brush footpad and above nose with White to strengthen highlights. Base hearts with White. Then paint again with Yellow Oxide. When dry, float Naphthol Red along sides of heart this may take 2-3 coats to build up. Base hat with white. Float shade with Medium Grey, then Dark Grey, walking the shading on the sides of the hat in a little bit toward the center. Strengthen shading with Ultramarine Blue. Pull some shadows along stitch lines following contour of hat brim. Add very fine stitch lines of Black. Dry brush hat with White to soften stitching and strengthen highlights Sharon Chinn Page 3

4 Basket Inside of basket is Raw Sienna. Outside of basket, rim and handle are Yellow Oxide. Paint reeds on basket with Burnt Umber. Shade basket by floating with Burnt Umber. Repeat as needed to build up shading. Highlight tab on rim by floating edge with White. Repaint every other intersection of the reeds with more Burnt Umber to create a woven effect. With Yellow Oxide + Raw Sienna, drybrush the intersections of the reeds that weave over to highlight. Repeat as need to build up these highlights and a touch of White for final highighlights. Float shade the edges of the Yellow Oxide squares on the front of the basket. These are just randomly shaded. View photo for placement of shading. Add 3 dots of Burnt Umber for tacks on rim of basket. Starfish Base starfish with White, then repaint with mix of White + Raw Sienna (a sand color). While wet, blend in saw Raw Sienna in shadows on left and bottom, and some white into highlights at top and right. Float shade left and bottom edges with a wash of Burnt Umber. To create the spiny look, tap lines of little white dots along the middle of each arm of the starfish, then in vein lines from this center line angling out to the edges (sort of like leaf veins). On the starfish in the basket, I did the little spiny texture on the shadow side using Burnt Umber instead of white to keep this starfish darker (he is mostly covered up by the flowers and foliage. Firecrackers Base with White. Wicks are Dark Grey, highlighted with Medium Grey (line with dark, then over stroke with finer line of medium). Feel free to decorate the firecrackers in whatever patterns you like. Blue stripes are Ultramarine Blue + a touch of Black. Red stripes are Naphthol Red. Polka dots are dots of White. Star is Yellow Oxide, float shaded with Naphthol Red + Raw Sienna. After the decorations have been painted, float shade the firecrackers with a mix of Ultramarine Blue + Naphthol Red (deep purple) to tone them down. To create some shadows behind the firecracker glow you can stipple very lightly with Ultramarine Blue + Black mix. When dry, drybrush a glow of Yellow Oxide in a circular area behind wick. Dry brush a tinier circle of blue just at tip of wick. Pull White lines of varying lengths out from tip of wick into the yellow glow. Add a variety of tiny dots of color through this glowy area with Yellow Oxide, Naphthol Red, and White. Geraniums Using a 1/4 angle brush base flowers with White. Let dry, then repaint with red using Naphthol Red + a touch of Ultramarine Blue for darker ones and a little White to the mix for the lighter ones. With full strength Naphthol Red, paint in some bright red accents here and there on the edges of the flower balls in loose c strokes, letting some go out off the edges onto the 2015 Sharon Chinn Page 4

5 background. Using a small round brush, dab in individual little flower petals within the flower balls using Naphthol Red and Naphthol Red + White to vary the color. Add some White petals for strongest highlights. Dot in some flower centers with Yellow Oxide. Flower buds are a cluster of 3 Naphthol Red petals. You can add a tiny spark of White to some of these to highlight, if desired. Base leaves that will go over something that has already been paint in the background with White so they will be easier to cover. Then paints stems and leaves with a green mix of Yellow Oxide + Ultramarine Blue. Vary this mix so all the leaves aren t exactly the same more Yellow Oxide in the mix will create a more yellow green; more blue in the mix a bluer green. The leaves I painted with a 1/4 angle floating the color around the edges of the leaves so they are lightly in the middle. Add a touch of red or umber to your green mix to darken it, then paint a squiggly line around the leaves just slightly in from the outer edge, and line veins with this color also. Stipple in some loose green foliage as filler in the basket. Flag Base with White. Flag pole is Medium Grey. Ball on top of flag pole is Yellow Oxide. Shade flag pole with a little Dark Grey. Shade ball on top of pole with Raw Sienna + Naphthol Red. Transfer letters on flag. Base them with Naphthol Red using a #2 flat brush. Float shade the left edge of the letters with Naphthol Red + Ultramarine Blue. Float highlight right edges of letters with White (keep this highlight a hair s width in from the edge, so you don t lose the letter into the white flag). I built up the shading on the flag with multiple washy floats of a variety of colors. Start with a transparent wash of Black. Then you can add layers of Naphthol Red and Ultramarine Blue to build up the values and add accents. Accents Float some accents of Burnt Umber, then Ultramarine Blue in the shadows on teddy s body and hat. Wet your background, then brush in some Naphthol Red into different areas, and tap with a mop brush to soften into the background. This will create some more purple areas to the background color and introduce the red into the background. You may need to repeat this a couple of times. Float a wash of Naphthol Red over the shadows of the sides of the basket and handle. You can also float some Ultramarine Blue into the shadows on the front squares of the basket Sharon Chinn Page 5

6 Finishing Let dry thoroughly, then protect with 1-2 coats of DuraClear Matte Varnish. I hope you enjoyed this project. If you would like similar projects, join my DecorativePaintingClub.com. Two new projects each month and at least half will have video instructions along with the epattern. If you have any questions, you can contact me at: Sharon Chinn 726 Meadow View Drive Villa Hills KY sharonchinn11@gmail.com Sharon Chinn Page 6

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