ARCHITECTURAL KNITS TREND COLLECTION S/S 2013
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1 ARCHITECTURAL KNITS TREND COLLECTION S/S 2013
2
3 ARCHITECTURAL KNIT FROM ANCIENT TIMES, THE LANGUAGE OF ARCHITECTURE HAS INSPIRED FASHION DESIGNERS, AND ITS INFLUENCE IS STILL STRONGLY FELT TODAY. FASHION AND ARCHITECTURE ARE MOST STRONGLY LINKED IN CONSTRUCTION. BOTH CREATE DESIGNS FROM THE COMBINATION OF AREAS, FORMS, MATERIALS, SURFACES, AND TEXTURES. BOTH CHARACTERISTICALLY USE PLAIN EDGES, PLEATS, AND CURVES. PIERRE BALMAIN ( ) ONCE SAID, DRESSMAKING IS THE ARCHITECTURE OF MOVEMENT, AND THE CREATIONS OF MANY DESIGNERS CONTAIN REFERENCES TO BUILDINGS AND ARCHITECTURAL CONCEPTS. THE ARCHITECTURE OF FASHION IS ALMOST SCULPTURAL AND CLEARLY DELIBERATE. OUR SPRING/SUMMER 2013 TREND COLLECTION UNVEILS NEW POSSIBILITIES TO INCORPORATE EDGES, PLEATS, FOLDINGS, AND PLISSÉ EFFECTS INTO KNITWEAR. THE SOFTNESS USUALLY ASSOCIATED WITH KNITWEAR IS NOW TRANSLATED INTO A SHARP, SEVERE CHIC. THE DOUBLE JERSEY TECHNIQUE IN ITS MANY DIFFERENT FACETS IS THE SOURCE OF OUR NEW STRUCTURES; THIS TECHNIQUE IN NO WAY RESTRICTS THE PROCESS OF DEVELOPMENT, BUT RATHER ENABLES IT TO REFLECT THE WIDE SPECTRUM OF KNITTING TECHNOLOGIES. THE COLOURS OF THE COLLECTION INTERPRET THE MATERIALS OF MODERNISM AND ITS CAPRICIOUS APPEARANCE: GREY CONCRETE TURNS INTO BEIGE WHEN IMMERSED IN SUNLIGHT, WHILE THE REFLECTIONS OF THE BLUE-GREY SKY ON COOL GLASS LIGHTEN OTHER AREAS. THIS INTERACTION OF LIGHT AND SHADOW EMERGING FROM WITHIN THE FOLDS IS THE BASIS OF OUR SUMMERDARKS. MATTE AND GLOSSY YARNS GIVE CONTRASTS LIKE STONE AND METAL SURFACES, AND THE USE OF LINEAR YARNS MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO REALIZE NEAT, CLEAR EDGES. THE RESULTING SILHOUETTES SHOW CLEAR, STRONG, AND CLASSIC LINES IN A LANGUAGE OF MASCULINE FORM: THE URBAN FICTION OF ANCIENT TIMES. THIS MAY INSPIRE COLLECTIONS WHOSE INTENTION IS TO BE MODERN. HOWEVER, THESE ORNAMENTAL DESIGNS BEGIN, NOT WITH INTENSE TECHNICAL STITCH DEVELOPMENT, BUT WITH A VOLUME OF EMPTY SPACE. IN THAT SPACE, WE CONCENTRATE ON THE ESSENTIAL: A TAILORING FREED FROM SUCH TECHNIQUES AS DRAPING AND SEWING. WE STEP FORWARD IN THE DIRECTION OF COUTURE IN ITS PUREST FORM.
4 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION BODY IN 2-COLOUR ALTERNATE RACKED TUCK STITCH PATTERN WITH LINKED ON GORED FRONT FLAP WITH PLISSÉ PLEATS AND INTARSIA PLEAT CONTENT
5 BILD ERWEITERN 5
6 (SEE PAGE 5)
7
8 (TOP SEE PAGE 11) CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 PLATED JERSEY FULLY FASHION TROUSERS WITH LAYERED PURL PLISSÉ PLEATS IN THE FRONT AND KNITTED ON WAISTBAND
9 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION V-NECK SLIP OVER IN 1x1 TUCK RIB, V-STRIPE MOTIF IN ALL NEEDLE KNIT AND WITH NEEDLE SET OUT IN RACKED AND TUCKED PATTERN, FACE TURNED INSIDE OUT 9
10 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 STOLL-APPLICATIONS, STOLL-MULTI GAUGES FULLY FASHION JERSEY TOP WITH KNITTED ON DIAGONAL STRUCTURE APPLICATIONS, PLEATS ARE SHAPED BY GORE TECHNIQUE AND FOLDED OVER THE TOP
11 11
12 12
13 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 PULLOVER WITH CUT AND SEW BODY AND FULLY FASHION SLEEVES IN JERSEY STRUCTURE, TUBULAR INTARSIA PLEATS WITH 3-LAYER TECHNOLOGY, PARTLY SET IN DIAGONAL BY GORING, WAVES MADE BY HOLDING STITCHES
14
15 (SEE PAGE 12) 15
16 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION INTARSIA DRESS WITH BUST DARTS IN GORE TECHNIQUE, DOUBLE JERSEY STRUCTURE WITH NEEDLE SET OUT AND STITCH DOUBLING CREATING BOX PLEATS WITH TRIANGLE PLEATS IN THE BACK, FACE TURNED INSIDE OUT
17 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION CHARLESTON DRESS IN DOUBLE JERSEY STRUCTURE WITH NEEDLE SET OUT AND KNITTED ON SKIRT WITH BOX PLEATS AND INVERTED TRIANGLE PLEATS AROUND THE HEM, FACE TURNED INSIDE OUT 17
18 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 8.2 FULLY FASHION DRESS, TOP PART WITH ARGYLE INTARSIA PATTERN IN JERSEY, KNITTED ON SKIRT IN DOUBLE JERSEY WITH NEEDLE SET OUT AND BOX PLEATS, 31 YARN CARRIERS IN THE FRONT AND 27 YARN CARRIERS IN THE BACK
19 19
20 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 SLEEVELESS FULLY FASHION EMPIRE DRESS, MADE UP ACROSS THE KNITTING DIRECTION WITH FRONT BOX PLEAT, SKIRT PART IN DOUBLE JERSEY WITH GORING AND HOLDING STITCHES, TOP PART WITH KNITTED ON RIBBON FOR DIFFERENT DRAPINGS
21 (SEE PAGE 20) 25
22 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION DRESS, SKIRT PART WITH BINDED OFF PLISSÉ PLEATS ACHIEVED BY STITCH DOUBLING (IN 2 ENDS), TOP PART WITH LAPEL KNIT TO FADE OUT INTO THE BODY WITH BIND-OFF TECHNIQUE (IN 3 ENDS)
23 27
24 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION HALTER-NECK BIKINI IN 1x1 HALF TUBULAR SHAPED BY GORE TECHNIQUE, BREAST PART FORMED BY PLEATS IN JERSEY TUCK STITCH STRUCTURE, INTARSIA TUBULAR EDGES WITH ELASTIC THREAD
25 29
26 (SEE PAGE 29)
27
28 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION V-NECK PULLOVER IN 1x1 TUCK RIB, TRIANGLE MOTIF IN ALL NEEDLE KNIT AND WITH NEEDLE SET OUT IN RACKED AND TUCKED PATTERN, FACE TURNED INSIDE OUT
29 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 STOLL-MULTI GAUGES SHORT-SLEEVED JERSEY WRAP-AROUND CARDIGAN SHAPED BY GORE TECHNIQUE WITH POINTELLE STRUCTURE STRIPES AND KNITTED ON TRIMS AND WAISTBAND, KNITTED IN ONE PIECE, FACE TURNED INSIDE OUT, SIDE SEAMS ARE LINKED CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 PLATED JERSEY FULLY FASHION PANT SKIRT WITH LAYERED PURL PLISSÉ PLEATS IN THE FRONT AND BACK, KNITTED ON WAISTBAND
30 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 FULLY FASHION VEST WITH ZIPPER IN RACKED DOUBLE TUCK STITCH PATTERN, SHOULDER YOKE AND INSET POCKETS IN RACKED HALF CARDIGAN STITCH
31 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 3,5.2 STOLL-MULTI GAUGES FULLY FASHION JERSEY TOP WITH DROP SHOULDER, OVERLAPS AT CENTRE ACHIEVED BY RACKING BOTH YARNS, FRONT OPENING TO A V-NECK THAT WRAPS AROUND THE BACK OF THE NECK, DIAGONAL RUNNING STITCHES BY TRANSFER CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 7.2 SKIRT IN DOUBLE JERSEY WITH RHOMBIC PATTERN ACHIEVED BY DIAGONAL HOLDING STITCHES AND PLEATS BY NEEDLE SET OUT, WAISTBAND NARROWED BY STITCH DOUBLING IN JERSEY INTERLOCK 35
32 36
33 CMS 530 HP MULTI GAUGE E 8.2 FULLY FASHION DRESS, MADE UP ACROSS THE KNITTING DIRECTION, IN GORED HALF TUBULAR STRUCTURE WITH JERSEY STRIPES
34 P. 5/ P. 5/ P. 8/ P P P. 12/ P. 12/15
35 P. 26/ P. 26/ P P. 9
36 P P P P P P. 35
37 P. 20/ P P P. 29/ P P. 33
38 PAGE NUMBER YARN DETAILS 5/6 8/ / FILMAR: TIFFANY, NM 16,5 (54% VI, 46% CO) SESIA: GLACÉ, NM 67 (70% CO, 30% PES) EMILCOTONI: SUVIN HT, NM 90/3 (100% CO) GRIGNASCO: DESERT, NM 40 (100% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) IGEA: FOGLIA, NM 24 (58% VI, 42% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) SESIA: GLACÉ, NM 67 (70% CO, 30% PES) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) ZIMMERMANN: 4495X (94% PA, 6% EA) FILMAR: PERLE MICRO, NM 7 (100% CO) FILMAR: TIFFANY, NM 16,5 (54% VI, 46% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) FILPUCCI: VISCREPE, NM 30 (100% VI) FILMAR: TIFFANY, NM 16,5 (54% VI, 46% CO) FILPUCCI: VISCREPE, NM 30 (100% VI) 19 20/25 26/27 29/ FILMAR: TIFFANY, NM 16,5 (54% VI, 46% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 100/2 (100% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) ZIMMERMANN, 3772X (83% PA, 17% EA) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) ZIMMERMANN: 4495X (94% PA, 6% EA) EMILCOTONI: SUVIN HT, NM 90/3 (100% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) SESIA: GLACÉ, NM 67 (70% CO, 30% PES) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO) LINEAPIÙ: JAZZ, NM 3,8 (96% CO, 4% PBT) LINEAPIÙ: IMAGE, NM 46 (80% VI, 20% PES) EMILCOTONI: SUVIN HT, NM 90/3 (100% CO) IGEA: FOGLIA, NM 24 (58% VI, 42% CO) WGF: COLCOTON, NM 70/2 (100% CO)
39 STOLL HEADQUARTERS GERMANY H. STOLL GMBH & CO. KG STOLLWEG REUTLINGEN T: +49 (0) F: +49 (0) CONTACT@STOLL.COM STOLL FASHION & TECHNOLOGY STOLL FASHION & TECHNOLOGY GERMANY H. STOLL GMBH & CO. KG STOLLWEG REUTLINGEN T: +49 (0) F: +49 (0) CONTACT@STOLL.COM STOLL FASHION & TECHNOLOGY CENTER NEW YORK 250 WEST 39TH STREET (GROUND FLOOR) NEW YORK, NY T: F: INFO@STOLLFTNY.COM 7 STOLL BRANCHES & AGENCIES FRANCE STOLL FRANCE 85-87, AVENUE HENRI BARBUSSE CLAMART T: F: STOLLFRANCE@WANADOO.FR ITALY STOLL ITALIA SRL VIA DEI MANISCALCHI 9/A CARPI (MO) T: F: STOLLITALIA@STOLL.IT USA CANADA STOLL AMERICA KNITTING MACHINERY, INC. 250 WEST 39TH STREET (GROUND FLOOR) NEW YORK, NY T: F: INFO@STOLLFTNY.COM JAPAN STOLL JAPAN CO. LTD. 9F AQUACITY SHIBAURA SHIBAURA, MINATO-KU TOKYO JAPAN T: F: INFO@STOLLJAPAN.JP INDIA STOLL INDIA PVT. LTD. C-25 SECTOR 63, NOIDA UTTAR PRADESH T: F: CONTACT@STOLL-INDIA.COM CHINA HONGKONG TAIWAN THAILAND VIETNAM CHEMTAX (STOLL) COMPANY LIMITED 6/F., GOLDSLAND BUILDING, MINDEN AVENUE TSIM SHA TSUI KOWLOON HONG KONG T: F: STOLL@CHEMTAX.COM
40 YARN MANUFACTURERS EMILCOTONI S.P.A. VIALE DELL`INDUSTRIA PIACENZA (PC) ITALY T: F: FILMAR S.P.A. VIA DE GASPERI ZOCCO D ERBUSCO (BS) ITALY T: F: FILMAR@FILMAR.IT FILPUCCI S.P.A. VIA DEI TIGLI CAPALLE (FI) ITALY T: F: FILPUCCI@FILPUCCI.IT IGEA S.P.A. VIA POLLATIVE PRATO (FI) ITALY T: F: IGEA@IGEAYARN.IT LINEAPIÙ S.P.A. VIA GOBETTI CAPALLE (FI) ITALY T: F: GRUPPOLINEAPIU@LINEAPIU.COM MANIFATTURA SESIA S.R.L. VIA TOSALLI 67/ FARA NOVARESE (NO) ITALY T: F: SALES@MANSESIA.IT WGF - COLCOTON GMBH AM WUPPERSTOLLEN WUPPERTAL GERMANY 8 W. ZIMMERMANN GMBH & CO. KG RIEDERSTRASSE WEILER-SIMMERBERG GERMANY T: +49 (0) F: +49 (0) INFO@ZIMSI.COM BITZER+SINGLE GMBH KOHLPLATTENSTRASSE ALBSTADT-LAUTLINGEN GERMANY T: + 49 (0) F: +49 (0) INFO@BITZER-SINGLE.DE TEXTIL REHM VON WIELAND STRASSE RENNERTSHOFEN GERMANY T/F: +49 (0)
41 EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT: FASHION & TECHNOLOGY ART DIRECTION & GRAPHIC DESIGN: SSAWSTUDIO.DE PHOTOGRAPHY: RAFAELKROETZ.DE HAIR & MAKEUP: RAHELTAEUBERT.COM MODELS: ILVA HEITMANN (PLACE MODELS), RAMON VON ROON (VIVA MODELS) 2012 STOLL GMBH & CO. KG
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