LESSON 2 FEATHER, SATIN AND LONG & SHORT STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY STRUCTURE 2.0 OBJECTIVES 2.1 INTRODUCTION

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1 LESSON 2 FEATHER, SATIN AND LONG & SHORT STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY STRUCTURE 2.0 OBJECTIVES 2.1 INTRODUCTION 2.2 PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN DURING EMBROIDERY 2.3 FEATHER STITCH 2.4 SATIN STITCH 2.5 LONG & SHORT STITCH 2.6 ASSIGNMENTS CLASS ASSIGNMENTS HOME ASSIGNMENTS 2.7 SUMMING UP 2.8 TERMINAL QUESTIONS 2.9 REFERENCES AND SUGGESTED FURTHER READING 2.10 GLOSSARY

2 2. FEATHER, SATIN AND LONG & SHORT STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY In the previous lesson of this unit, we have learnt about the historical background of embroidery, distinctive embroidery styles of India, different material and tools required for embroidery and finally about the two most basic stitches, namely, the Running stitch and the Stem stitch. In this lesson we will learn about the Feather stitch, Satin stitch and the Long & Short stitch. 2.0 Objectives After going through this lesson you will be able to Understand the precautions to be taken during embroidery. Identify feather stitch, satin stitch and long & short stitch. Understand how to make these stitches and also their various uses. 2.1 Introduction Embroidery is the art of decorating a cloth with needle work. It is the artistic use of needle and thread to create appealing designs. For this a variety of stitches are used. We have already learnt how beautiful designs can be embroidered using stem stitch and stem stitch. In this lesson we will describe the steps involved in doing Feather, Satin, and Long & Short stitches. But before we do this, it will be worthwhile to learn about various precautions to be taken while doing embroidery. 2.2 Precautions to be taken during Embroidery i) During embroidery: The embroidery hoop (ring) should be fitted properly before starting the needle work. It should appear like a drum. The thread should not be longer than 18, otherwise it tends to coil towards the end.

3 A knot should not be used when starting or ending a length of embroidery thread. Needles of appropriate numbers should be used to suit the type of embroidery being done. ii) After embroidery: Do not use hot iron over the embroidered portion. Do not dry the embroidered fabric in sunlight. The various stitches listed earlier will now be considered one by one. 2.3 Feather Stitch Feather stitch is an embroidery stitch, consisting of a line of diagonal stitches, worked alternately to the left and right. Feather stitch can also be defined as a type of stitch in which short stitches project at right angles from a main line of stitching. The various steps to embroider this stitch are: When learning to work this stitch it is useful to draw 4 parallel lines on the fabric. Then we bring the needle out at the top of the first line and hold the thread down with the left thumb. (Fig. 2.2). Now we insert the needle on the third line at the same level and make a small stitch in a downward motion, so that the needle point comes out on the second line. (Fig. 2.2) Keeping the thread under the needle point, we now pull the thread through the fabric to make the stitch. (Fig. 2.2) Next we insert the needle on the forth line at the same level and make a small stitch in a downward motion so that the needle point comes out on the third line now. (Fig. 2.2) Work stitches from the top to the bottom. A feather like look comes from their being open, looped stitches taken alternatively to the right and the left from a central core. Every time the needle is pulled gently pressing the stitch under the thumb. Because of the back-and-forth movement of the needle, care must be taken to keep the stitches even on both sides of the centre line. It is advisable to draw guidelines lightly for the centre line as well as for the side lines before starting the work. A sharp long eye needle of no. 7 to 9 should be used.

4 Activity Fig. 2.1 Feather stitch Fig. 2.2 Steps involved in Feather stitch 1. Select a design which is suitable for feather stitch and embroider it using feather stitches as shown in the picture bellow. 2. On a piece of fabric draw vertical lines and embroider all the three variations of feather stitch using three different coloured threads. Some variations of feather stitch are Single feather stitch, Double feather stitch, Treble feather stitch, as shown in the figures 2.3 and 2.4 below. Fig. 2.3 Example of Feather stitch Fig. 2.4 Feather stitch variations When you work one step to the left and one step to the right then it is called the Single feather stitch. When you work two steps to the left and two steps to the right then it is called the Double feather stitch. When you work three steps to the left and three steps to the right then it is called the Treble feather stitch. Uses - This stitch is used in embroidering handkerchiefs, bibs, saree borders, neck and sleeve outlines of a dress, lines in the gather of a frock, puff sleeve borders etc. This stitch can also be used when we have to give a spiky effect or cacti like effect.

A monogram is usually embroidered with the satin stitch. The various steps used are: Fig. 2.5 Satin stitch Bring the needle up from the backside at one edge of the design.

5 2.4 Satin Stitch Satin stitch (Fig. 2.5 and 2.6) is simply a straight stitch worked very closely together to fill in a solid small background. On completion of the stitch, you will observe that it gives a very fine, smooth and satiny look. That is why it is called the satin stitch. Satin stitch also gives an embossed look to the design. A monogram is usually embroidered with the satin stitch. The various steps used are: Fig. 2.5 Satin stitch Bring the needle up from the backside at one edge of the design. Insert at opposite edge and then again return to the starting edge. Repeat the same process. Take the stitches close to one another pulling the yarn gently. Threads should lie closely side by side, but not overlapping. To embroider small patterns and to give delicacy, take one strand of the yarn. However, if you want to give a little rough effect, then you may take two or three strands, instead of one. Use needle number 5 to 7 with a thin long eye. Do not take very thin or very thick fabric. Fig. 2.6 Satin stitch Fig. 2.7 An example of Satin stitch Uses - Satin stitch (Fig. 2.7) is used to embroider handkerchiefs, bags, pillow covers, sofa backs, saris etc. and for embroidering capital letters. Chamba embroidery of Himachal uses double Satin stitch. In one of the types of Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh, Bukhia, Satin stitch is done on the wrong side. Activity 1. Draw a small flower on a piece of fabric and embroider it with satin stitch. 2. Collect some satin stitch embroidery samples and paste them neatly in your workbook.

2.5 Long & Short Stitch Long & Short stitch is practically painting with the needle. It is a filler stitch that fills the motif. It is a simple modification of the satin stitch.

6 2.5 Long & Short Stitch Long & Short stitch is practically painting with the needle. It is a filler stitch that fills the motif. It is a simple modification of the satin stitch. In this, the length of the stitches is at different levels. The long and short stitches closely follow the shape and the outline of the design. While the satin stitch is used to fill the design areas in smaller sized motifs, the long and short stitch is used when the design area to be coved is comparatively larger. This stitch (Fig. 2.8) is used for shaded embroidery. This stitch appears same on either side of the fabric. The steps to be followed are: Fix the fabric in such a way that the design is in the centre of the embroidery hoop. Make an outline of the design with a running stitch. First make the design using long and short stitches and in one color yarn. Another shade of the color should then be used in such a way that it intermingles properly with the previous shade of the same color. The design is continued to be embroidered. Take stitches very close to one another so that they intermingle. In case of hand embroidery, only one strand of the yarn is taken. Embroidered stitches appear similar on both sides of the fabric. In case of machine embroidery, the outline stitches are made twice. Take care that the bobbin thread is not seen on the right side in machine embroidery. Fig. 2.5 Long & Short stitch Fig. 2.6 An example of Long & Short stitch

7 Activity 3. Collect some samples of Long & Short stitch embroidery samples and paste them neatly in your workbook. Uses - Long & short stitches are used for embroidering photo frames, wall pieces, saris, Punjabi dresses, table covers, bed sheets, pillow covers, sofa backs, handkerchiefs, woollen shawls, sweaters etc. The Bharat Kaam of Rajasthan makes use of this stitch along with other types of stitches. An illustration of this type of embroidery is shown in the Fig Assignments Class assignments i) On the same 8 x12 fabric, embroider straight (horizontal lines) of 6 each. Embroider the lines in Feather Stitch, Satin Stitch and Long & Short Stitches. Retain this fabric for further practice of other stitches. ii) iii) Trace three simple designs on a fabric 8 x12, using any one of the methods discussed in the class, namely: Direct Drawing Methods Using Carbon Paper Using Butter Paper Running Stitch Method After you have completed tracing of the three designs, you may embroider the three designs using Feather stitch in one design, Satin stitch in the other design, while the Long & Short stitches in the third design. Home assignments i) Find and bring a sample of any work done using Feather stitch or Satin stitch or Long & Short stitch. 2.7 Summing Up In this lesson, the precautions to be observed during embroidery were first discussed. Three new types of stitches, viz., Feather, Satin and Long & Short stitches, were then described along with their applications

8 2.8 Terminal Questions 1. What precautions are required during embroidery? 2. What are the main applications of the three types of Stitches, viz., Feather stitch, Satin stitch and Long & Short stitch? 2.9 References and Suggested Further Reading 1. Chattopadhyay, K Indian Embroidery. Wiley Eastern Ltd. New Delhi. 2. Mistry, N. C. Embroidery Designs. Navneet Publications Ltd. Mumbai. 3. Naik, S.D Traditional Embroideries of India. A.P.H. Publishing Corporation. New Delhi Glossary 1. Appealing Attractive or interesting 2. Appropriate Suitable; proper 3. Diagonal Slanting, at an angle as if joining opposite corners of a geometrical figure. 4. Project Stick out beyond something else 5. Strand(s) Single, thin length of thread 6. Treble Consisting of three parts or occurring three times 7. Worthwhile Worth the time, money, or effort spent

LESSON 3 THE FRENCH KNOT, LAZY DAISY AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY

LESSON 3 THE FRENCH KNOT, LAZY DAISY AND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES IN EMBROIDERY STRUCTURE 3.0 OBJECTIVES 3.1 INTRODUCTION 3.2 THE FRENCH KNOT 3.3 BUTTONHOLE STITCH 3.4 LAZY DAISY STITCH 3.5 ASSIGNMENTS 3.5.1