Raggedy Ruff Designs. Sweet peas. Finished size 8.5 by 8.5 (or 12.5 by 12.5 )

Transcription

1 Raggedy Ruff Designs Raggedy Ruff Designs Sweet peas Finished size 8.5 by 8.5 (or 12.5 by 12.5 ) 1

2 You will need: Background fabric: Given in background section. Wadding: 10 by 10 for the smaller size, and 14 by 14 for the larger size. I like to use Hobbs Premium heirloom which is a poly cotton blend and easy to hand quilt as well as machine quilt. Backing fabric: 10 by 10 for the smaller size and 14 by 14 for the larger size, minimum. I used a Moda Bella Natural. Stabiliser: 8 by 8 for the smaller size, and 12 by 12 for the larger size. There are lots of types of stabilisers. For this project, I used a medium weight cut away stabiliser and just left it in when I had finished. When I am hand quilting, I use a papery tear away one. It isn t as nice as the cut away one but you can get it out easily and then quilting is much better. I don t like the soluble ones as I find they stick a bit on the machine and don t move as easily but that is a personal choice. Thread: I used the following threads by Wonderfil: Colour I used Purpose Alternatives Soft lime green (V) Tutti 50wt cotton Cow parsley stems TU30 TU29 Off white (V) Tutti 50wt cotton Daisy petals and cow s Designer polyester TU41 parsley DS115 Dark Moss green Designer Polyester Daisy stem Designer DS848 DS846 Light turquoise/grey Fabulux polyester Shading on the cow s DS242 (V) FB40 parsley Moss green (V) Tutti TU32 Sweet pea stems DS847 Warm dark purple (V) Tutti TU18 Sweet peas Rayon R5112 Light warm purple (V) Tutti TU17 Sweet peas Rayon 5105 Dark taupe Designer DS891 The underneath of the cow s parsley and stems Saddle brown Designer DS893 Outlining most parts Konfetti KT804 Fuchsia (V) TU16 Pink sweet peas Pale blue (V) TU21 Forget-me-nots Rayon R225 Pale yellow TU03 Daisy centre DS144 You don t need to use these colours, just have a look through your thread box and see what you have. If you switch between types of thread like I do, then you may need to keep adjusting your tension as you sew. Some of the quilting threads I use are quite thick and I must turn my tension wheel to half of what I normally do so that I don t get the bottom thread coming up. Tension problems show up a lot more when you free motion than normal sewing, so if you get loops on the bottom either your upper tension is probably too loose or it isn t threaded correctly. I recommend using pre-wound bobbins. Wonderfil do some lovely ones called Decobob pre-wounds and they take a lot of the stress about tension from your project and don t really cost very much more than winding your own. Applique Fabric: You can use any fabric you like but I would heartily recommend batiks for raw edge applique. The thread count is higher so they stay together while you are sewing and don t fray nearly 2

3 as quickly. I like to use hand dyed batiks with no printed pattern. They give a lovely water colour effect. I use the Kota batiks by Moda, Timeless treasure tonga blenders, Hoffman water colours and Sew Simple Batiks. For this embroidery, I used: Code Item Colour Size for 8 Size for 12 A1 Kota Vanilla Daisy Light cream 3.5 by 2 6 by 3 A2 Kota baby lilac Sweet peas Light warm 2 by 2 3 by 3 purple A3 Kota jungle lavender Sweet peas Lilac 2 by 2 3 by 3 A4 SSB030 Sweet peas Mid pink 2 by 2 3 by 3 A5 Kota dark pink Sweet peas Dark pink 2.5 b by 4 A6 SSB100 Sweet peas Lavender 2.5 b by 4 A7 SSB094 Sweet peas Dark purple 2 by 2 3 by 3 A8 SSB090 Sweet peas Warm bright 1 by by 1.5 purple Freezer paper: Freezer paper is ideal to trace the pattern pieces and then you can iron them (warm iron) onto your fabric and then cut them out and carefully peel away the paper. Bottom bobbin threads: Just a note here to say that I am lazy so I only ever use either a dark brown/grey/cream thread on my bottom bobbin. I adjust my tension to make sure I don t get any noticeable thread colour coming up from underneath. I recommend using pre-wound bobbins. Wonderfil do some lovely ones called Decobob pre-wounds and they take a lot of the stress about tension from your project and don t really cost very much more than winding your own. Free motion foot and ability to either drop or cover up your feed dogs: Everyone s machine is different and I m not going to try and explain all the different types of free motion sewing foot. But you are going to need one. And to know how to use it! This one is mine. I have a Pfaff Creative 2056 (which is getting on a bit.) I used to have the proper free motion foot for it but I broke it so I am back to the darning foot the machine came with, but to be honest it works just as well so I haven t bothered changing it. At the back of the instructions there are the outline drawings. If you wish to construct the embroidery using needle turn applique you will need to add seam allowances on as they are not included. I am not going to give the instructions for needle turn applique but if you follow the same order as for the raw edge applique and remember to add on your seam allowance you should be fine, and you could embroider the extra details or smaller pieces by hand. 3

4 Background instructions for 8 panel Below are the fabric requirements for the 8 patchwork background. The placement for each piece are indicated in the chart by the reference number. All the patchwork seams are constructed using a ¼ inch seam. I would highly recommend labelling with G1 etc which you have cut out your pieces so you don t get muddled! Code Description Pieces to cut Fabric size supplied G1 Bella Mint Mint green plain 5.5 by by 6 G2 Amelia green Bright light green plain 5.5 by 2.5 time 2 6 by 6 G3 S&S Aqua Dark green pattern batik 5.5 by 1.5 times 2 6 by 4 G4 SSB066 Dark teal batik 1.5 By by 2 G5 Hoffmann Parakeet Dark teal pattern batik 1.5 By 2.5 times 2 3 by 4 G6 SSB075 Light turquoise batik 2.5 by by 3 Background instructions for 12 panel Below are the fabric requirements for the 12 patchwork background. The placement for each piece are indicated in the chart by the reference number. All the patchwork seams are constructed using a ¼ inch seam. I would highly recommend labelling with G1 etc which you have cut out your pieces so you don t get muddled! Code Description Pieces to cut Fabric size supplied G1 Bella Mint Mint green plain 8 by 8 9 by 9 G2 Amelia green Bright light green plain 8 by 3.5 time 2 9 by 8 G3 S&S Aqua Dark green pattern batik 8 by 2 times 2 9 by 5 G4 SSB066 Dark teal batik 2 By by 2.5 G5 Hoffmann Parakeet Dark teal pattern batik 2 By 3.5 times 2 5 by 4 G6 SSB075 Light turquoise batik 3.5 by by 4 Piecing Instructions G1 G2 G3 G3 G4 G5 G5 G6 G2 4

5 This is the pattern layout. I like to use grids and really you can construct this in any way you like but I have put instructions on the next pages to show an order with pressing directions as well. Both the larger and smaller panels have the same layout, although the size of your blocks will vary. G3 G4 G5 G1 G2 G3 2. Stitch G3, G4 and G5 together. Press seams the opposite way as in step 1 (G3 seam on to G4) 1. Stitch G1, G2 and G3 together. Press seams to the right (G2 seam into G1 fabric) 3. Stitch G2, G5and G6 together, pressing G5 seam onto G2 etc. 4. Nesting seams, stitch the top two rows together. Press the seams upwards. G5 G6 G1 G2 G3 G2 G3 G4 G5 5. Stitch the bottom row, pressing the seam downwards G1 G2 G3 G3 G4 G5 G5 G6 G2 5

6 Embroidery Instructions At the back of the instructions there are the outline drawings. If you wish to construct the embroidery using needle turn applique you will need to add seam allowances on as they are not included. I am not going to give the instructions for needle turn applique but if you follow the same order as for the raw edge applique and remember to add on your seam allowance you should be fine, and you could embroider the extra details or smaller pieces by hand. Video links (In addition to the written instructions I also have videos on my YouTube channel. Please go to or search for Raggedy Ruff Designs on YouTube. There isn t a specific one for this pattern but the other tutorials might be helpful.) Basic cutting out guidelines To use freezer paper, you do the following: Trace your design with a pencil on to the matt side of your freezer paper. Cut out your shape with paper scissors (or if you are naughty like me you can just roughly cut out the shape with your fabric scissors and trim it down properly when you cut your fabric. This isn t great for the life of your scissors but it does improve your cutting accuracy.) With a warm iron, press your shape onto the right-hand side of your fabric. You can fussy cut if you want but make sure that you have all the shapes fitting onto your fabric before you cut, you don t want to find that you only have enough fabric left for half a mouse! Cut the shape and peel off the freezer paper. I like to build up my designs through layers where possible to reduce the amount of raw edge seams cutting across a shape and make positioning easier. So, trace out all the design lines unless they are clearly embroidery only (like the eyes or the mice paws, bird s legs etc.). I try to show embroidery lines with a thinner pen line, and fabric changes with a thicker pen line. When you peel off the freezer paper, you can then trim down the shape to the next layer of fabric and reuse it. If you are using a fabric kit to make this panel, please remember that some of the applique fabric pieces will be used in different parts of the embroidery. It would be a good idea to trace out of the designs and cut out all the pieces for one applique fabric colour at a time so that you ensure you position the pieces optimally or you may not have sufficient fabric later. Adhesives I don t use any adhesives on my appliques. I don t like the feel of them and I like the freedom to keep arranging my pieces as I go along. You can pin your pieces down if you like or use adhesive but I won t be mentioning them in the patterns as it isn t how I work. To stop the pieces from puckering, I keep smoothing the applique fabric pieces away from the machine needle with my fingers. It is one of the reasons I like to layer my fabric so if anything does shift a little bit, you don t end up with a gap between sections. 6

7 Cutting out 1. Trace around all the pieces. Mark all the changes in fabric colour but don t worry about embroidery lines. 2. Cut the daisy from the off white. 3. Cut the buds from the bright purple, and the baby lilac (lightest purple.) 4. For the open flowers, Cut the whole flower shape from your first darker shade. Then peel away your freezer paper. 5. Trim the template down to show the upper most petals and choose a lighter shape. For the flower face on you will need to repeat this a third time. I know this seems a little wasteful of fabric as we are making multiple layers but it is a lot easier than trying to jigsaw the pieces of fabric back together again. And if a piece shifts a bit when you are sewing, it won t matter. Put your pieces to one side for now and we are going to stitch 7

8 in the cow s parsley. Put your stabiliser underneath. Thread your machine with a soft lime green thread. Take a deep breath and with all the free motion settings engaged correctly on your machine, position your needle at the base of one of the flower heads. A few stitches on top of each other fastens your end for you. Each time you get to the end and want to cut off your thread remember to do a few stitches to lock the thread so it doesn t undo. With free motion sewing there is no need to stop and turn around, you can sew in all directions. After a few stitches, I find it helpful to cut off the upper thread end so I don t keep sewing over it. For this kind of stitching I find it helpful to turn your top tension down a little. It doesn t need much. Sew slowly and move the fabric smoothly so you get approximately 2mm long stitches. The stems are straight and you can broaden them by going up and doing a few times, being careful not to pull too quickly so that your fabric gets puckered. There are little leaves at the base of the flower heads. Stitch the flower stems with a gentle curve. At the top move to the next stem and come back down so you keep those stems nice and thin and delicate. Change over to an off-white thread (TU41) and stitch in the flowers. These are basically just scribbly stars. Don t worry about getting them exact, you are after creating a flowery impression, not neat little flowers. Add some above the others to create a nice domed shape to the flower heads. Change to a taupe thread (DS891) and create a shadow by stitching a few shapes under the white flowers and stitch down some of the stems as well. You don t want to do every one but just every other will be fine to give it some depth. Lastly change to a light grey/turquoise and do a little blending with a few more star/flower shapes between the white and taupe. With those done, grab your applique pieces and arrange them on your fabric. Change to a mid-brown (DS893) and positioning the needle approximately 1mm from the edge, stitch around the inside edge of all the fabric pieces. Go all the way around all the applique pieces, securing all the edges of all the fabric pieces. If you miss a bit don t go back over what you have done, just get back into position as quickly as you can and keep going. If you feel a bit panicky then you can always just sew up and down on the same spot a bit or stop for a second! 8

9 Don t worry about any of the details at this stage. We just want to get all the pieces sew0 n down so they don t go astray! Once you have gone around all the shapes, go around them again, making sure you catch down any edges that you missed the first time. When you reach the petal divides you can add them in. Next change over to a moss green (TU32) and add in all the sweet pea stems, loosely following the template design. Enjoy those curly tendrils! With a darker green (DS846) stitch in the daisy stem. With a pale yellow, you can fill in the daisy centre. (TU03) and use white (TU41) to stitch around the edges of the daisy petals. For the sweet peas, use the lighter purple (TU17) to stitch around the edges of the flowers on the lighter fabric colours. Use a pink on the pink flower (TU16) and use the darker purple (TU18) to create the shadows in the folds and tucks. The forget-me-not stems are stitched in green and the flowers then added with TU21 light blue. Forget me nots have a simple 5 petal 9

10 shape with a little circle in the middle. Don t worry too much about them, they are just to add some extra shades and make it look nice and delicate. Your panel is finished. Depending on what you want to do with it, you can turn it into a mini wall hanging and quilt it, or a cushion cover would be lovely. Neaten up any loose ends on the back, but I generally leave as many of the back threads uncut where possible so that it helps everything stay in place on the front. The templates are included in the following pages. The larger template will need to be cut out and overlapped and stuck together to make the full templates. Have fun! 10

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