Fancy Yarn Technology for superior flexibility

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Willis Curtis
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1 Fancy Yarn Technology for superior flexibility

MARZOLI Fancy Yarn / Market Potential & the Slub Effects HIGH MARKET POTENTIAL HIGHER CONTRIBUTION MARGINS FOR SPINNERS RISING DEMAND FOR FANCY YARNS STATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGY FOR YARN SLUBBING

draperies. As demand for complex fabrics with distinguishing characteristics increases, so will the demand for fancy yarns. these effects.

2 MARZOLI Fancy Yarn / Market Potential & the Slub Effects HIGH MARKET POTENTIAL HIGHER CONTRIBUTION MARGINS FOR SPINNERS RISING DEMAND FOR FANCY YARNS STATE OF THE ART TECHNOLOGY FOR YARN SLUBBING Market potential & Marzoli s competence For several years fancy yarns have been essential components of modern fashion and have been gaining more importance in the clothing sector, in furnishing and draperies. As demand for complex fabrics with distinguishing characteristics increases, so will the demand for fancy yarns. these effects. These fabrics, often created by fashion designers, provide a higher contribution margin when compared with traditional fabrics, so more and more spinners are including fancy yarns in their product range by employing new and more advanced integrated slubbing devices. Fancy yarn for fashionable fabric Rising demand for denim fabric Thanks to modern spinning plants, yarn regularity has reached very high levels, allowing to create even and homogeneous fabrics. Some applications, however, require a certain irregularity to give fabrics a sense of movement and a unique look. Slubbing devices create intentional defects in the yarn, in order to produce Demand for denim fabrics has grown sharply and denim has gone from a basic, simple and durable fabric for work clothing in the 70s and 80s to a fashion fabric with exclusive designs used for all occasions. World production in the last 10 years has increased by over 50% and it is estimated that each year a pair of jeans is sold for every inhabitant of the planet. Moreover with increasing global population and middle classes, the demand for denim fabric will likely grow also in the coming years, even at a higher rate. Marzoli slubbing device Marzoli was the first manufacturer to introduce a fully integrated fancy yarn device on its spinning frames. The close cooperation between Marzoli and some of its customers, who are world-wide leaders in the production of denim fabrics, has led to the continuous improvement of Marzoli s slubbing device which today represents state of the art technology for yarn slubbing. Worldwide denim production capacity Billion meters

TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN ANY SLUB EFFECT EASY SETTING OF THE SLUBBING DEVICE SLUBS SHORTER THAN 20mm ANY TYPE OF VISUAL EFFECT ON THE FABRIC Slub effects There are four basic slub effects: slub,

3 TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN ANY SLUB EFFECT EASY SETTING OF THE SLUBBING DEVICE SLUBS SHORTER THAN 20mm ANY TYPE OF VISUAL EFFECT ON THE FABRIC Slub effects There are four basic slub effects: slub, multi-count, multi-twist, and reverse slub. The various combinations among these four can create infinite yarn and fabric designs. image 01 The slub effect The slub effect is obtained through continuous variations of the main draft. With Marzoli s system to create a slub is as simple as setting its length in millimeters, its thickness (multiplier) as a percentage of the base yarn and its pause (distance between one slub and the next) in millimeters. Usually slubs have lengths between 30 and 100 mm, but in some cases slubs are even shorter to produce an effect called malfile, i.e. small and frequent slubs that create an effect of natural irregularity. Thanks to last generation electronics, high efficiency motors and special acceleration ramps (less than 0.1 seconds), Marzoli s slubbing device is capable of producing slubs shorter than 20 mm without compromising yarn quality and strength. image 02 image 03 The multi-twist effect The multi-twist effect does not entail count variations in the yarn: it only entails twist variations. The twist differential changes the yarn diameter and its response to dyeing. This creates interesting light and dark areas in the yarn and fabric. case, does not have a constant count nor a constant twist: for each count a different desired twist, based on a selected constant α, is applied. The combination of the multicount and multitwist effects is obtained through a variation of the main draft to modify the count and a variation of the first cylinder speed to modify the twist. (image 01) (image 03) The multi-count effect Multicount & Multitwist combination The reverse slub effect The multi-count effect is obtained through prolonged variations of the main draft. The result is a yarn that has different counts but constant twist. Usually the multicount and the multitwist effects are used together as their combination entails very interesting effects on the fabric. The yarn, in this Reverse slub is obtained through continuous variations of the main draft that, unlike the slub effect, are negative and reduce the yarn thickness. (image 02) 3

MARZOLI LEADING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY GREAT FLEXIBILITY - ANY TYPE OF SLUB SLUB LENGTH BELOW 20mm UP TO 20 SLUBS PER METER NO WEAK POINTS IN THE YARN PERFECT INTEGRATION WITH THE MDS1 SPINNING FRAME

4 MARZOLI LEADING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY GREAT FLEXIBILITY - ANY TYPE OF SLUB SLUB LENGTH BELOW 20mm UP TO 20 SLUBS PER METER NO WEAK POINTS IN THE YARN PERFECT INTEGRATION WITH THE MDS1 SPINNING FRAME Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device Leading-edge slubbing technology Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device was the first integrated device available on the market and, since its birth in 1999, it has been the world leader among integrated slubbing devices. Its market success (over 300,000 installed spindles) has been due to: Great flexibility. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device can produce any type of slub effect and all their combinations (e.g. slub-on-slub, etc.). Its state-of-the-art technology allows to produce slubs with length below 20 mm and make up to 20 slubs per meter. Quality of the yarn. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device does not create any weak point on the yarn thanks to special acceleration and deceleration curves. Perfect integration with the MDS1 spinning frame. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device works in perfect symbiosis without interfering with the performance of the machine. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device Features fully integrated system; high performances and productivity; user-friendly and simple HMI, with values in mm and percentages; great versatility and flexibility; motors acceleration and deceleration ramps up to 10 ms, with sinusoidal shapes to produce yarn without weak points; automatic visualization of the graph related to the present slub recipe in order to check the right execution; automatic control of the slubs characteristics with warning in case of not workable parameters; minimum slub length below 20 mm with a multiplier of 1.80; multiplier up to 5 times the nominal count; up to 20 slubs per meter; slub formation without changing the front roller speed, for a perfect distribution of the twist on the yarn; 500 lines for 500 different slubs in a single recipe; automatic generation of the recipes inserting only the minimum and maximum parameters with a reading choice between random, cycle and Mcch system; up to 10,000 different recipes saved in the machine; connection to YarNet production management platform for the production of slub recipes on a remote PC; with the system Draw your slub it is possible to draw the shape of the slub on the panel. Brief history of Denim The origins of the denim fabric go back to the beginning of the In those times Italian and French weavers were competing to produce a heavy and strong fabric with the unique characteristic of having a white weft and a blue warp yarn died with indigo, which is a vegetable substance derived from the plant indigofera tintoria native of India. The French fabric was named denim after the city of Nimes where it was produced and sewn. In Italy it was named bleu de Genes, which means blue of Genoa, the city where it was produced and gave the name to the blue-jeans. In the mid Nineteenth century, a German tailor by the name of Straub used the Genoese fabric for the first time to produce a pair of strong and hard-wearing work trousers for the workers of the many mines that were being opened in the United States. In a short time those strong and distinctive pants, with double stitching and metal rivets used to strengthen the pockets, became popular all over the world. Today they are the single most diffused item of clothing. (Fashion Magazine, may 2011) 4

TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN NO MECHANICAL MODIFICATION TO THE SPINNING FRAME INFINITE SLUB FORMS AND DESIGNS UNMATCHED PERFORMANCES Fully integrated system & high performance Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device

Twist and draft variations are accomplished by simply modifying the speed on the independent motors that are already installed on the spinning frame.

With Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device, all slub options have unmatched performances. Moreover, thanks to independent drafting motors, high performance electronics, and acceleration ramps up to 0.

5 TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN NO MECHANICAL MODIFICATION TO THE SPINNING FRAME INFINITE SLUB FORMS AND DESIGNS UNMATCHED PERFORMANCES Fully integrated system & high performance Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device does not require any mechanical modification to the spinning frame. Twist and draft variations are accomplished by simply modifying the speed on the independent motors that are already installed on the spinning frame. Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device is therefore capable of producing fancy yarns of infinite forms and designs without requiring any modification to the spinning frame. With Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device, all slub options have unmatched performances. Moreover, thanks to independent drafting motors, high performance electronics, and acceleration ramps up to 0.1 seconds, it is possible to obtain slubs smaller than 20 mm with up to 20 slubs per meter. % 50 1 IPI: -50/+100/+200% Mass diagram m % IPI: -50/+100/+200% Mass diagram m % IPI: -50/+100/+200% Mass diagram m % IPI: -50/+100/+200% Mass diagram m % IPI: -50/+100/+200% Mass diagram m 5

MARZOLI SIMPLE AND IMMEDIATE SETTING HIGH FLEXIBILITY ANY SLUB EFFECT User-friendly interface One of the distinguishing characteristics of

By using a touch screen, users can quickly enter all data needed to create any fancy yarn recipe.

Alternatively, thanks to YarNet platform the operator can insert the slub recipe on a remote PC and send it to the machine.

MT SOS + MC SOS + MT SOS + MC + MT High Flexibility for any slub effect Unlike other less performing slubbing accessories, Marzoli Fancy

6 MARZOLI SIMPLE AND IMMEDIATE SETTING HIGH FLEXIBILITY ANY SLUB EFFECT User-friendly interface One of the distinguishing characteristics of Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device is its ease of use and simple settings. By using a touch screen, users can quickly enter all data needed to create any fancy yarn recipe. Slub recipes can also be easily transferred among different machines using a USB flash drive. Alternatively, thanks to YarNet platform the operator can insert the slub recipe on a remote PC and send it to the machine. Slub combinations S (Slub) MC (Multicount) MT (Multitwist) MC + MT MC + S MT + S MC + MT + S RS (Reverse slub) RS + MC RS + MT RS + MC + MT SOS + MC SOS + MT SOS + MC + MT High Flexibility for any slub effect Unlike other less performing slubbing accessories, Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device can produce all four slub effects and also combine them for an extensive range of designs. Its versatility, ease of use and performance have helped the Marzoli s integrated slubbing device to gain market shares in segments that for a long time were exclusively dominated by specialized accessories. 6

TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN NO WEAK POINTS IN THE YARN HIGHER RESISTANCE FEWER DEFECTS ON THE FABRICS HIGHER EFFICIENCY IN WEAVING SUCCESSFUL SUPPLY TO SEVERAL INDUSTRY LEADERS ALL OVER THE WORLD No

7 TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN NO WEAK POINTS IN THE YARN HIGHER RESISTANCE FEWER DEFECTS ON THE FABRICS HIGHER EFFICIENCY IN WEAVING SUCCESSFUL SUPPLY TO SEVERAL INDUSTRY LEADERS ALL OVER THE WORLD No thin or weak points One of the main challenges of fancy yarns is the formation of thin and weak points at the end of the slubs due to the motor deceleration. Thin and weak points enhance the number of yarn breakages during weaving operations and thus increase the number of defects on the fabric and reduce the efficiency of the machines. Normal curve Marzoli s curve With Marzoli Facy Yarn Device, thin and weak points are avoided thanks to the special curves, developed by Marzoli, for the acceleration and deceleration of the drafting cylinders. Marzoli s world reference Since its launch on the market in 1999, Marzoli Fancy Yarn Device has been supplied successfully all over the world to several industry leaders. TRC Candiani Ital Denim Manifattura di Cene Berto Gruppo Tavex Raymond Spentex Sara Spintex Gruppo Cone Parkdale Glen Raven Canatiba Vicunha Cedro Cotam Group Engine Group Sirikcioglu Bossa Kipas Denim Maritas Gap Phong Phu Riaz DNM Denim de l Ile Argon Spinning Square Texcom Italy Italy Italy Italy Morocco India India India USA USA USA Brazil Brazil Brazil Turkmenistan Turkmenistan Turkey Turkey Turkey Turkey Turkey Vietnam Pakistan Egypt Mauritius Bangladesh Bangladesh 7

MARZOLI Fancy Yarn / Draw Your Slub DRAW YOUR SLUB APPLICATION EASY EDITING OF SLUBS FAST DESIGN OF ANY TYPE OF SLUB The patented Marzoli system to edit fancy yarn recipes In competitor devices

With the innovative and patented Marzoli system, the slub is drawn in a dedicated editor.

new slub (identification number) is recalled into the slub table.

8 MARZOLI Fancy Yarn / Draw Your Slub DRAW YOUR SLUB APPLICATION EASY EDITING OF SLUBS FAST DESIGN OF ANY TYPE OF SLUB The patented Marzoli system to edit fancy yarn recipes In competitor devices the slub recipe is created through a table where the three parameters, length of the slub, multiplier and length of the pause, are manually edited. With the innovative and patented Marzoli system, the slub is drawn in a dedicated editor. multiplier length pause The Draw Your Slub system works as follows: the operator draws the slub through the dedicated editor; the operator gives an identification number to the new slub; the new slub (identification number) is recalled into the slub table. The editor is very simple to use: by making a double click on the panel, the operator creates single points that are then connected with lines. The line shows the trend of the multiplier, i.e. the diameter of the slub (y) as a function of the length of the slub (x). Once the editing is over, the operator gives an identification number to the slub. Then, the operator recalls the identification number in the slub table and inserts the length and the pause of the slub. 8

TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN Example of drawn slub Through the editor we create a slub with a saw tooth shape. We give to this drawing the identification number 5.

In the slub table we create a slub (Slub 1): we recall the slub shape identified with number 5 (ID#), we set 200 mm as slub length and 400 mm as pause length.

9 TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN Example of drawn slub Through the editor we create a slub with a saw tooth shape. We give to this drawing the identification number 5. We close the editor and we go back to the slub table. In the slub table we create a slub (Slub 1): we recall the slub shape identified with number 5 (ID#), we set 200 mm as slub length and 400 mm as pause length. Then, we create a second slub (Slub 2): we recall the slub shape identified with number 5 (ID#), we set 100 mm as slub length and 150 mm as pause length. Slub 1 and 2 have the same shape (saw tooth) but different lengths, the first one 200 mm, the second one 100 mm. This is because at the slub drawing identified with number 5 have been applied two different lengths (line 1 and 2). It is possible to eliminate the pause in order to obtain a completely drawn yarn: it is sufficient to set 0 mm as pause length. This system gives spinners enormous advantages: the most important one is that all kinds of slub drawings and shapes are achievable. In traditional systems (competitors) the slub can only have one constant diameter according to the set multiplier, while with Marzoli system the diameter may vary infinite times on every single slub. Moreover, in traditional systems the acceleration and decelration ramps, that influence the visual effect of the yarn, are pre-setted. With Marzoli system acceleration and deceleration ramps are completely settable, also for every single slub. 3x 2x 1x Slub 1 Pause 1 Slub 2 Pause 2 An additional advantage is that with this system spinners may gradually change the count on long portions of yarn: they may create incremental multicount with a single and simple drawing inserting only the desired length. With the old system hundreds of program lines were required. 200mm 400mm 100mm 150mm 9

MARZOLI Software Platform / YarNet EASY & FAST CONTROL OF EVERY STAGE OF THE SPINNING PROCESS IMPROVED SPEED OF RESPONSE IN PRODUCTION OPERATIONS POWER MANAGEMENT (BEST TRADEOFF BETWEEN EFFICIENCY &

easily monitor and manage from his/her computer each & every machine of the spinning mill.

10 MARZOLI Software Platform / YarNet EASY & FAST CONTROL OF EVERY STAGE OF THE SPINNING PROCESS IMPROVED SPEED OF RESPONSE IN PRODUCTION OPERATIONS POWER MANAGEMENT (BEST TRADEOFF BETWEEN EFFICIENCY & PRODUCTION) EASY MANAGEMENT OF PRODUCTION RECIPES The End2end production management platform: YarNet YarNet is Marzoli s highly innovative production management software which allows the user to easily monitor and manage from his/her computer each & every machine of the spinning mill. Thanks to the simple and logical structure of YarNet, with no complicated and useless functions, the customer can have a clear overview of the entire spinning plant and reach a highly improved speed of response in production operations. Furthermore, when the customer must insert a new production recipe, he can do that while sitting in his office instead of standing in front of the idle machine: this highly reduces the chances of mistakes and machine downtimes. Production monitoring YarNet allows to monitor the entire spinning plant thanks to a multi-window screen. Each window displays real-time production data (count, twist, speed, production volumes, etc.), machines operating conditions (energy consumption, alarms,...) and, thanks to colored progress bars, machines statuses (red=alarm, blue=doffing, yellow=wait, green=run, etc.). This grants a clear overview of the whole plant and allows to immediately identify out-of-control operations, whose causes can then be studied. Moreover, by juxtaposing production and consumption data, the customer can identify the best tradeoff between efficiency and production and adjust machines speed accordingly (Power Management System). Production management Thanks to YarNet, users can download, modify and send production recipes from their computer. Once a production recipe has been sent to a machine, the user can decide to start the new lot production automatically after the next doffing or to send a signal on the machine panel. In this case, the operator at the machine will decide if and when to start the production of the new lot. During the editing of the recipe, the software analyzes the mechanical reduction of each motor and calculates the maximum and minimum tolerance values for each parameter. While the operator inserts the parameter values, the system continuously update and verifies the feasibility of the inserted data. If a parameter value exceeds its tolerance values, the interface warns 10

TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN NO MISTAKES IN PRODUCTION RECIPES LOWER SPINNING FRAME DOWNTIMES GREATER COMFORT FOR THE CUSTOMER REDUCED LEAD-TIME FOR SLUB EDITING the user by highlighting the field in

with fancy yarn production: thanks to YarNet, the operator can create long and complex production recipes sitting in front of his computer in his office/laboratory instead of standing in front of the

11 TECHNOLOGY FOR FANCY YARN NO MISTAKES IN PRODUCTION RECIPES LOWER SPINNING FRAME DOWNTIMES GREATER COMFORT FOR THE CUSTOMER REDUCED LEAD-TIME FOR SLUB EDITING the user by highlighting the field in red. All the advantages of YarNet (lower chances of mistakes in the production recipe, lower downtimes of the machines and, last but not least, higher comfort of the customer) are even more evident with fancy yarn production: thanks to YarNet, the operator can create long and complex production recipes sitting in front of his computer in his office/laboratory instead of standing in front of the touch screen of the idle spinning frame; he can save a potentially unlimited number of production recipes in his computer so that he can recall them and save time during lot changes; he can easily identify mistakes in the recipes before the start of their production as YarNet highlights in red the fields where non-workable parameters have been inserted, it creates graphs that showcase the features of the inserted slub yarn and provides a preview of the related black table. All these features allow the customer to reduce the design lead time of slub yarns, the time required to insert new recipes and to easily spot defects in the yarn design. In other words, YarNet substantially contributes to the achievement of higher standards of efficiency, productivity and flexibility that are key competitive drivers in modern spinning mills and whose importance will grow in the near future. 11

12 MARZOLI MACHINES TEXTILE SRL Italy MARZOLI TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS PVT. LTD India MIX COMUNICAZIONE - MI MARZOLI INTERNATIONAL, INC. USA Legend Marzoli premises Sales & service network Marzoli Machines Textile srl Via Sant Alberto, Palazzolo sull Oglio (BS) Italy Tel Fax sales@marzoli.it Marzoli International, Inc. 100 Corporate Dr., Suite M Spartanburg, SC U.S.A. Tel Fax sales@marzoli.com 666DENI0915E 11/15 Sales affiliates Marzoli Textile Machinery Manufacturers Pvt. Ltd. Shed No 6, Bangalore Main Road SIDCO Industrial Estate Hosur Taluk Krishnagiri District, , Tamil Nadu India Tel A Camozzi Group Company

Compact Yarn Technology for top quality & flexibility

Compact Yarn Technology for top quality & flexibility MARZOLI Compact Yarn / Marzoli Mac3000 OUTSTANDING YARN QUALITY GREAT FLEXIBILITY SUITABLE WITH VARIOUS TYPES OF FIBERS: COTTON, SYNTHETICS, BLENDS