From goats and fiber to products and markets

Transcription

1 From goats and fiber to products and markets Liba Brent Key moments in fiber production, harvesting, processing and marketing in Badakhshan Spring 2012

2 73 crossbred kids of Altai bucks produced in crossbred kids produced in 2012* *Manymore kidswere conceived but most of them died (~75%) because of severe winter weather. Progress in breeding Some crossbred kids are starting to produce good fiber in a larger volume. The households are pleased with the results and want to continue breeding the best crossbred offspring and cull inferior bucks. The imported bucks are having a positive impact on the local flocks. Long term improvement in fiber volume & quality can be expected especially if the processing & marketing component succeeds and there is a sustained ddemand dfor combed cashgora

3 Project team established successful collaboration with the communities The project has a full support at the sites. Villagers work actively with the project team on all activities and share the goals of improving breeding and setting up fiber processing. Over 160 Women collaborate with the project on goat breeding and fiber harvesting; 50 additional women are being trained to spin and knit.

4 Progress and problems in fiber harvesting & collection Purchasing system worked very well in Villagers actively participated and can organize fiber purchase themselves in In 2012 the team collected less fiber and the New combs did not fiber was of lower quality because of the severe work as expected winter weather and malnutrition of the goats.* were not tested Tajikistan lost 30% of livestock in winter and spring Villages in ahead of time. Bdkhh Badakhshan were severely affected by shortages of winter feed. Under good conditions (women have good combs, funds are available on time, collection points are functioning) the project can expect to collect ~200 kg of combed fiber at the pilot villages for approx $4,200 in 2013.

5 Fiber collection in Roshkala Th j i dfib ll i i h R hk l ll Th l fl k f The project organized fiber collection in the Roshkala valley. There are larger flocks of pure cashgora goats in Roshkala and the fiber is of better quality than in the Ishkashim pilot area. Large percentage of Roshkala fiber can be processed into sock yarn without dehairing.

6 Over 100 kg of fiber (sorted into white, grey and dark grey) was sent to Herat, Afghanistan for dehairing with the help of AKF in July. 55 kg of the Progress in dehairing dehaired fiber will be processed into The dehaired fiber looks very good ~50 kg of yarn for the full results will be available after export in winter spinning & testing yarn and products Fiber was scoured, disinfected and dehaired for $5/kg within one week and sent back. The scouring yield was 92%, dehairing yield was 60%. In 2013 fiber will be dehaired in a new plant in Faizabad.

7 24 Electric spinning machines were delivered from Asht to Badakhshan. The best spinners will be selected and certified to spin two types of fiber: 1) undehaired cashgora fiber that will be used to make yarn for Jurabe socks. 2) dehaired cashgora fiber that t will be processed into yarn for export and for luxury knitwear. Progress in spinning The lead spinning group in Andarob village organized training in spinning on the new electric machines for women from all pilot villages. The women use sheep wool for training. 40+ women are currently learning how to spin.

8 The image cannot be displayed. Your computer may not have enough memory to open the image, or the image may have been corrupted. Restart your computer, and then open the file again. If the red x still appears, you may have to delete the image and then insert it again. The project is organizing knitters in several villages. The knitters will develop a new type of the Jurabe socks that combine traditional patterns and contemporary design in the fall The knitters will use yarn from the undehaired cashgora fiber for the Jurabe. They can make 5 6 pairs of Jurabe from 1 kg of yarn. One pair of Jurabe will cost ~$20 to produce: $15 for knitting + $5 for yarn. Progress in knitting The Jurabe will be used for the local tourist market and for export. First samples will be test marketed in The project will develop other luxury knitted products such as sweaters and hats from the dehaired cashgora yarn.

9 From 1 kg of clean, raw fiber that does not require dehairing women can earn: $20 for selling 1kg of I. category combed fiber; $1.5 for scouring the fiber; $1 for carding the fiber; $1.5 for dyeing the fiber; $28 for spinning 800g of fiber; $15 x 4 = $60 for knitting 4 pairs of socks from 750g of yarn; Total: $112. Earnings from fiber From 1kg of raw fiber that needs dehairing women can earn: $14.50 for selling II. category fiber; $17.50 for spinning 500g of dehaired fiber; $60 for knitting 10 hats; Total: $92. If the households collect and process 200 kg of combed fiber they will earn approximately $20,000. The project can scale up fiber collection and processing by expanding combing and by purchasing and dehairing sheared fiber in addition to combed fiber.

10 Product pricing Approximate production cost of 1kg of dehaired yarn & marketing will be $65: $30 for will be $85/kg: $50 for dehaired fiber + $35 for spinning. Production cost of 1kg of undehaired yarn fiber + $35 for spinning. Dehaired cashgora yarn will be sold in the USA. Marketing venue for the yarn is being developed. Strong demand is expected regardless of high h price point due to softness & durability. Undehaired cashgora will be processed into socks and gloves. 4 groups of products will be developed in Badakhshan dehaired yarn; sweaters, hats & shawls from dehaired yarn; underharied yarn; Jurabe socks & gloves from Models of Jurabe socks and gloves from the undeharied cashgora will be developed in the fall 2012 and testundeharied yarn. marketed in

11 Key challenges Sustainable community breeding structure with Altai offspring has to be established. Women have to be trained to spin perfect yarn on electric spinning i machines in winter The project needs to purchase a carding machine to card undehaired cashgora. Dyeing workshop for yarn has to be set up. Spinning andknitting groups have to be effectively organized and managed. Products from the two yarns need to be made and test marketed.