Fibre Properties in Wool Manufacture. Gary Robinson
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1 Fibre Properties in Wool Manufacture Gary Robinson
2 Traditional: Horizontal Structure Greasy Wool Combing = Top Spinner = Yarn Fabric Manufacturer Garment Manufacturer Retail
3 Greasy Wool Recent Trend: Vertical Structure > Fabric Manufacturer > Garment Manufacturer > Retail
4 Communication Gates Finance F Technical Trade Transport TE TD TR Company Buyers F TE TD TR F TE TD TR Process Managers
5 New? Greasy To Garment Retail Problem: Expertise in all areas Solution: Communication (Managed Teams)
6 Fibre and Wool Growing Make Money Finer Wool Increase Fleece Weight (Changes Crimp)
7 FIBRE DIAMETER
8 Yarn Linear Density, g/km, and Fibre 60 Diameter Yarn Weight (tex) fibres 70 fibres Fibre Diameter (Micron)
9 Fabric Weight, Fibre Diameter and Weave 400 Fabric Weight (g/m 2) Fibres 70 Fibres 2/2 Twill Plain Weave Fibre Diameter
10 Fibre Diameter and Comfort 100 (Knitwear) 100% Comfortable Fibre Diameter, Micron
11 Fibre Diameter and Comfort 5 (Knitwear) Softness Ranking Fibre Diameter, Micron
12 Coeff of Variation In Fibre Diameter CVD Smaller effect than Fibre Diameter Need a change of 6% in CVD = Small Change in Handle
13 Mean Fibre Diameter Ø Significant effect on handle/softness Ø Significant effect on fabric weight Ø Effects process variations
14 FIBRE LENGTH
15 Fibre Length Hauteur: Number x Cross-section Equal Visual Barbe: Weight-biased Distribution Barbe is always greater than Hauteur B = H (1 +V 2 ) V = Fractional Coeff. Variation of Hauteur
16 Fibre Length and Yarn Tenacity YT cn/tex ~ H YT cn/tex Hauteur mm
17 Fibre Length and Spinning Ends-down ~ H EDMSH Hauteur mm
18 Mean Fibre Length - Hauteur (ref - Toptech 96) For yarn tenacity & ends down, 10mm = 1µm For yarn evenness, 25mm = 1µm For fabric handle no trade-off
19 Savings 10mm of Hauteur can allow (approx.): a 10% reduction of twist, or a 7% increase of spinning speed, or a cheaper (1µm coarser) wool
20 Coeff. of Variation of Fibre Length Industry generally claims CV(H) is very important Longer staple length and lower strength gives a high CV(H). As does blending a wide range of fibre lengths Shorter staples give less breakage Controlled industry trials reveal it is the shorter H not the high CV(H) that matters
21 STAPLE STRENGTH and POB
22 Hauteur, Staple Strength, and POB 70 Hauteur (mm) B 35T 48M (22 µm) N/KTEX
23 Noil, Staple Strength, and POB B 34T 48M % Noil (22µm) N/KTEX
24 Spinning Breaks, Staple Strength, and POB EDMSH R 2 = R 2 = Hauteur (mm) 8k spindle rpm 11.5k spindle rpm Linear (11.5k spindle rpm) Linear (8k spindle rpm)
25 VEGETABLE MATER
26 VM Base and VM in Fabric VM F Per Kg 80 Burr VM Base % S/S
27 Vegetable Matter (VM) Line VM Base % VM Top (Per Kg) >3mm >10mm Holes in Fabric (per kg) Total Due to VM B, AAA B, Pcs K, AAA K, Pcs
28 FIBRE CRIMP
29 Ø fleece Fibre Crimp 1. Problems with Measurement sample history/preparation Ø combed Ø relaxed
30 Fibre Crimp 2. Effects Process Variation Ø Yield 0.5 to 1.0 % increase in Romaine for each 10degree/mm increase in curvature.
31 Fibre Crimp 2. Effects Process Variation Ø Ø Fabric Dimensions - higher crimp wool increase dimensional stability in use Fabric Weight - fabric weight clearly increases as fibre crimp increases - an increase of 85 to 100 deg/mm caused a 10gsm in 200gsm, (5%), increase.
32 Fibre Crimp 3. Effects Product Quality Ø Pilling higher crimp pill less Ø Bulk higher crimp gives greater bulk and cover (warmth?) Ø Handle higher crimp tends to give stiffer handle
33 Consumer Needs/Preferences Preference share % Soft Next to skin* 19 Machine Washability 13 Shape Retention 12 Soft to Handle* 11 Light Weight* 11 Resist Pilling 10 Crease Resistant 9 Easy Ironing 9 Tumble Drying 6 *41% - Fibre diameter related
34 End - Use Finishing and Fabric Structure >>Fibre Properties
35 Prickle Property Importance Fibre Diameter 10 CVD (>27 micron) 3 Fibre Length 2 Yarn Count 0 Cover Factor (knit) 4 Finishing 10
36 Wrinkle Recovery, WR WR - depends on relaxing stress - lesser extent, fibre-fibre friction Finer Wools Worse (small) Fibre crimp Higher crimp better (small)
37 Pilling Property Relative Effect Fabric Tightness 10 Yarn Twist 5 Fibre Diameter 5 Fibre Crimp?
38 White, bright, pastel (Ladies Wear) - need white wool Dark Shades - Colour is less important - Uniformity of colour
39 Fibre Diameter and Abrasion Resistance (AR) 20 AR (x 1000 rubs) Fibre Diameter, Micron
40 Fibre: Processing and Product Greasy Wool Property Processing Fabric Fibre Diameter XXXX XXXX Yield XXXX X Staple Length XXX X Staple Strength/POB XXX X Vegetable Matter XXX X Clean Colour XXX XX Dark Fibres XX XX Fibre Diam. Variation XX X Crimp/Curvature XX XX Tip X X Horizontal ü? Vertical ü ü XXXX (Most Importance) X (Least Importance)
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