Sampler Jacket Designed by Meg Crowther for Blacker Classic Aran yarn

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1 Designed by Meg Crowther for Classic Aran yarn A fun Ladies Jacket full of interesting textured stitches, fastening front and back

2 Level of difficulty: intermediate A delightful fun jacket, designed by Meg Crowther and worked in Yarns Classic British Aran yarn, this is an exercise in cable and textured stitch designs and comes in three sizes. The main body which is knitted in just two parts, left and right sides, uses four different stitch patterns, and, optionally, has buttons up both front and back (so you will never be confused!). The set-in sleeves each have a different cable pattern running up the centre, so you can either choose one for each sleeve or just select one and make the sleeves the same. We also provide a plain stocking stitch sleeve option. To complete the garment the buttonhole bands and the scarf collar are knitted in garter stitch. Measurements Size: Small Medium Large To fit up to bust cm inches Finished chest size: cm inches Length at back cm inches Note: to obtain a larger size without doing too many sums, you can work with Chunky yarn on 6.5mm needles and adjust lengths as required. This will also work for intermediate sizes, and conversely for a smaller size, work in DK on 4.5mm needles. Materials: 15 (17, 20) 50g balls Yarns Aran yarn we suggest British Classic Aran Fawn, however pattern will also work in other Yarns woollen spun Aran yarns, such as the specific breeds, like Galway, Ryeland, Manx, Norfolk Horn, North Ronaldsay or Portland you will find that a medium or paler colour will show off the designs better. 1 pair 5.5mm needles, plus 1 spare for 3 needle cast off 1 80cm 5.5mm circular needle 4 stitch holders 10 buttons, approx. 2cm/1 inch Darning needle for sewing up Tension/gauge 17 sts by 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 inches) worked in main body pattern on 5.5mm needles To check the tension knit a swatch 36 sts and 48 rows and measure tension centred across the change of the four patterns. Adjust needle size to give correct tension. Stitches and abbreviations st, sts = stitch, stitches k = knit, p = purl RS = right side WS = wrong side Stocking Stitch, alternate rows knit and purl Garter Stitch, every row knit on 2 needles Moss stitch = k1, p1 to last st, k1 k2tog or p2tog = knit or purl the next 2 sts together mk 1 = make 1 st by picking up and knitting into the loop of the stitch from the previous row before the next st sl 1 = slip 1 st purl wise psso = pass the slipped stitch over Decrease: work next two sts together Yon = yarn over needle Cable stitches (see charts) C3F = slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front, k1, then k2 from cable needle C3FP = slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front, p1, then k2 from cable needle C3B = slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at back, k2, then k1 from cable needle C3BP = slip next stitch onto cable needle, hold at back, k2, then p1 from cable needle C4F = slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at front, k2, then k2 from cable needle C4B = slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle, hold at back, k2, then k2 from cable needle MFl = make flower k the next 3 sts tog, and without dropping them from the left needle k the first of these sts then knit the 2nd and 3rd sts tog, dropping the original sts from the left needle Note on working through this pattern: Please read all the way through first as we have simplified things! The instructions for each part of the garment are listed first and then we provide the details for the individual sampler panels with written and charted instructions together with a layout for the designs. Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 1

3 Right Side Using 5.5mm needles, cast on 77 (95, 113) sts Work 6 rows of moss stitch ending with RS facing Now work the sequence of designs as listed and sketched on page 7/8. Note: the larger sizes have 1 (2) extra panels of designs respectively. Next row: starting at row 1, st 1 of Chart C: Pattern Layout, pattern to last 5 sts, moss st to end Next row: moss st 5 sts then follow chart row 2 starting at st 72 (18, 36) and pattern to end. For the second and third sizes, you will need to work 1 and 2 additional panels respectively (see page 6, with detailed chart instructions, for more details) so for the Next row: moss st 5 sts then follow chart row 2 starting at st 72 (18, 36) so the additional 65 (68, 70) cm, 25.5 (26.75, 27.5) inches, from the start of the work ending with RS facing Pattern 14 (16, 20) sts then cast off the remaining 16 (18, 24) sts Place the 14 (16, 20) sts onto a stitch holder Right Front With WS facing rejoin the yarn to the remaining 32 (41, 49) sts and keeping the continuity of the pattern decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next row and every following alternate row 3 (10, 8) times and then on every 3rd (0, 0) row 4 (0, 0) times, leaving 24 (30, 40) sts Continue without shaping until work measures 16 (16.5, 17) cm, 6.25 (6.5, 6.75) inches, from the start of the armhole shaping ending with RS facing Right Front Neck Shaping Cast off 4 (6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next row, pattern to end Work 1 row without shaping Cast off 2 (3, 2) sts at the beginning of the next row, pattern to end Work 1 row without shaping Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 1 (1, 2) alternate rows, leaving 16 (19, 28) sts Decrease 1 st at the neck edge of every following 4th (3rd, 3rd) row 2 (3, 4) times, leaving 14 (16, 24) sts Continue in pattern without shaping until front measures the same as the back to the shoulder Place the 14 (16, 20) sts on a stitch holder. panels start at the right places, and then work across the panels as in the chart to end This sets the position for the designs in each size from Chart C with a moss st border at the centre back Continue working in pattern with moss st border until work measures 41 (42, 42.5) cm, 16 (16.5, 16.75) inches, from start, ending with RS facing Divide for armhole Keeping the continuity of the pattern, work 32 (41, 49) sts, cast off the next 7 (9, 11) sts and pattern to end Place the first 32 (41, 49) sts on a holder and continue on the remaining 38 (45, 53) sts Keeping the continuity of the pattern decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next row and every following alternate row 3 (10, 8) times and then on every 3rd (0, 0) row 4 (0, 0) times, leaving 30 (34, 44) sts Continue without shaping until Right Back measures Left Side Using 5.5mm needles, cast on 77 (95, 113) sts Work 6 rows of moss stitch ending with RS facing Next row: starting at row 1, st 1 (55, 37) of Chart C: Pattern Layout, pattern to last 5 sts, moss st to end Next row: moss st 5 sts then following chart row 2, starting at st 72 and pattern to end This sets the position for pattern from Chart C with a moss st border at the centre front Continue working in pattern with moss st border until work measures 41 (42, 42.5) cm, 16 (16.5, 16.75) inches, from start, ending with RS facing Divide for armhole Keeping the continuity of the pattern, work 33 (40, 48) sts, cast off the next 7 (9, 11) sts and pattern to end Place the first 33 (40, 48) sts on a holder and continue on the remaining 37 (46, 54) sts Keeping the continuity of the pattern, decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next row and every Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 2

4 following alternate row 3 (10, 8) times and then on every 3rd (0, 0) row 4 (0, 0) times, leaving 29 (35, 45) sts Continue without shaping until Left Front measures 16 (16.5, 17) cm, 6.25 (6.5, 6.75) inches, from the start of the armhole shaping ending with WS facing Left Front Neck Shaping Cast off 9 (11, 11) sts at the beginning of the next row, pattern to end Work 1 row without shaping Cast off 2 (3, 2) sts at the beginning of the next row, pattern to end Work 1 row without shaping Cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 1 (1, 2) alternate rows, leaving 16 (19, 28) sts Decrease 1 st at the neck edge of every following 4th (3rd, 3rd) row 2 (3, 4) times, leaving 14 (16, 24) sts Continue in pattern without shaping until front measures 65 (68, 70) cm, 25.5 (26.75, 27.5) inches Place the 14 (16, 24) sts on a stitch holder Left Back With WS facing rejoin the yarn to the remaining 33 (40, 48) sts and keeping the continuity of the pattern decrease 1 st at the armhole edge of the next row and every following alternate row 3 (10, 8) times and then on every 3rd (0, 0) row 4 (0, 0) times, leaving 25 (29, 39) sts Continue without shaping until Left Back measures 65 (68, 70) cm, 25.5 (26.75, 27.5) inches, from the start of the work ending with RS facing Pattern 14 (16, 20) sts then cast off the remaining 11 (13, 19) sts Place the 14 (16, 20) sts onto a stitch holder. Sleeves A and B cable versions With 5.5mm needles cast on 40 (40, 42) sts and work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib Next row: Rib1, mk 0 (1, 1), rib 13 (13, 14),*mk 1, rib 4, repeat from * twice more, then mk 1, rib 13 (13, 14), mk 0 (1, 1), rib1, to make 44 (46, 48) sts Sleeve A only Next row: k14 (15, 16), p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k2, p2, k14 (15, 16) This sets the position for pattern from Chart A Sleeve B only Next row: k14 (15, 16), p5, C3B, C3F, p5, k14 (15, 16) This sets the position for pattern from Chart B Sleeves A and B Continue working from either Chart A or Chart B as set, and at the same time increase 1 st at each end of 6th (6th, 4th) and every following 6th (6th, 5th) row until you have 72 (72, 82) sts Continue without shaping until sleeve seam measures 42 (43, 43.5) cm, 16.5 (17, 17.25) inches, ending with RS facing Keeping the continuity of the cable panel, cast off 4 (4, 5) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, leaving 64 (64, 72) sts Decrease 1 st at each end of the following 5 (5, 4) rows, and then on every alternate row 1 (0, 2) times Decrease 1 st at each end of every following 3rd row 2 (0, 7) times and then every alternate row 9 (13, 7) times Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 5 (3, 1) rows, leaving 20 (22, 30) sts Cast off the remaining sts. Sleeve C Plain stocking stitch option With 5.5mm needles cast on 40 (40, 42) sts and work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib Next row, Rib1, mk 0 (1,1), rib to last st mk 0 (1,1), rib1, making 40 (42, 44) sts Starting with a k row work in stocking st, increasing 1 st at each end of 6th (6th, 4th) and every following 6th (6th, 5th) row until you have 68 (68, 78) sts Continue without shaping until sleeve seam measures 42 (43, 43.5) cm, 25.5 (26.75, 27.5) inches, ending with RS facing Cast off 4 (4, 5) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, leaving 60 (60, 68) sts Decrease 1 st at each end of the following 5 (5, 4) rows, and then on every alternate row 1 (0, 2) times Decrease 1 st at each end of every following 3rd row 2 (0, 7) times and then every alternate row 9 (13, 7) times Decrease 1 st at each end of the next 5 (3, 1) rows, leaving 16 (18, 26) sts Cast off the remaining sts. Finishing Block all pieces according to measurements and to match sizes of each piece. Join the shoulder seams using a three needle cast off as follows: Place the front and back left shoulder stitches onto two 5.5mm needles, with the point of the needle pointing away from the neck on both back and front. Holding the pair of needles with the two sets of stitches in the left hand, with the right sides facing Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 3

5 and the needle points together, take the spare 5.5mm needle in the right hand. Push the point of the spare needle through the front of the first stitch on the front needle and the side of the stitch closest to you on the back needle. Knit this stitch onto the spare needle, taking care when easing the two stitches off the left needles. **Push the spare needle through the next two stitches and knit onto right hand needle. Pass the first stitch over the second stitch (as per normal cast off)** Repeat from ** to ** until there is only one stitch on the right hand needle Break yarn and pass through this last stitch. Repeat for the right shoulder. Front Buttonhole Band With RS facing and starting at bottom edge of the right front pick up and knit 96 (99, 100) sts evenly down the Right Front Work 4 rows of garter stitch Next (buttonhole) row: k2, *ktog, yon, k15, repeat from * 4 times more, k to end Work 3 rows of garter st Cast off, taking care not to make the cast off too tight. Back Buttonhole Band With RS facing and starting at bottom edge of the Left Back, pick up and knit 110 (114, 118) sts evenly down the Right Back Work 4 rows of garter stitch Next (buttonhole) row: k16(17, 20) *ktog, yon, k15, repeat from * 4 times more, k to end Work 3 rows of garter st Cast off, taking care not to make the cast off too tight. If you prefer not to have the buttons down the back work the band as above but the buttonhole row knit. Work 15 rows of garter st Next row: RS, k50, cast off the next 10 sts, k to end Next row: WS, k150 (160, 172), cast on 10st, K to end, back to a total of 210 (220, 232) sts This forms the slit for the scarf collar to thread through, placing the slit on the right side. (If you prefer the slit on the left hand side, work as follows, next row: RS k150 (160, 172) cast off the next 10 sts, K to end. Next row: WS, k50, cast on 10sts, k to end). Work a further 15 rows of garter st Cast off loosely. Sewing up Pin and stitch the sleeve seams, and then pin the sleeves into the armholes and stitch in place. Darn all loose ends. Stitch the buttons in place down the front button band and down the back buttonband. Stitch the top three buttons of the back through the buttonhole band, and then stitch the remaining two onto the button band. If you wish the back to open further up, only slip stich the band down as far as the last button hole that you like. If you are not placing buttons down the back slip stitch the back band down as far as you wish and omit the buttons. Charts Read all charts upwards, starting from the bottom right-hand corner and working from right to left on all odd numbered (RS) rows, and from left to right on all even numbered (WS) rows. Stitch symbols Collar and Scarf Lap the back buttonhole band over the back button band and slip stitch the two pieces together along the button band edge down to just above the 4th button position Using 5.5mm needles cast on 70 sts, then with RS facing starting at Right Front, missing the garter stitch buttonhole band, pick up and knit 24 (27, 31) sts up the right front neck, 9 (11, 13) sts across the right back neck, 4 sts across the back buttonhole band, 9 (11, 13) sts across the left back neck and 24 (27, 31) sts down the left front neck, missing the moss st button band. Cast on a further 70sts for total of 210 (220, 232) sts Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 4

6 Chart A: sleeve cable 1, overlaid X s, 16 rows over 16 sts Row 1: p2, k2, p2, C4B, p2, k2, p2 Row 2: k2, p12, k2 Row 3: p2, C3FP, C3BP, C3FP, C3BP, p2 Row 4: k3, p4, k2, p4, k3 Row 5: p3, C4F, p2, C4B, p3 Row 6: as row 4 Row 7: p2, C3BP, C3FP, C3BP, C3FP, p2 Row 8: k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2 Row 9: p2, k2, p2, C4F, p2, k2, p2 Row 10: k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2 Row 11: as row 3 Row 12: as row 4 Row 13: p3, C4B, p2, C4F, p3 Row 14: as row 4 Row 15: as row 7 Row 16: as row 8 Chart B: sleeve cable 2, overlapping V s, 8 rows over 16 sts Row 1: p5, C3B, C3F, p5 Row 2: k5, p6, k5 Row 3: p4, C3B, k2, C3F, p4 Row 4: k4, p8, k4 Row 5: p3, C3B, k4, C3F, p3 Row 6: k3, p10, k3 Row 7: p2, C3BP, p1, C4F, p1, C3FP, p2 Row 8: k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2 MAIN BODY CHARTS, 48 rows over 72 (90, 108) sts The body consists of a series of panels using 4 (5, 6) designs, each 24 rows over 18 sts Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 5

7 The small size has 8 panels on each side, the medium has 10 and the large has 12 If you wish to move these around, to make more of one panel than another, for instance, this is very possible. The designs as listed are worked such that the jacket is deliberately asymmetrical, so if you want it symmetrical you will need to reverse the panel arrangement for one of the sides. The arrangement on the chart is as follows, working from right to left, up from the bottom right hand corner: First set of four, (five, six) right to left bottom row Design 1: all stocking stitch Design 2: chevrons of knit and purl, sloping up to the right, 3 sts wide Design 3: flowers, arranged in rows of 3, then 2, then 3, then 2 on stocking stitch background Design 4: stocking stitch with ladders of raised 2 knit sts, at spaces of 4 For second size, repeat Design 1, for third size repeat Design 1 and then Design 2 Second set of four (five, six) right to left top row Design 2: chevrons of knit and purl, sloping up to the right, 3 sts wide Design 1: all stocking stitch Design 4: stocking stitch with ladders of raised 2 knit sts, at spaces of 4 Design 1: all stocking stitch For second size, repeat Design 2, for third size repeat Design 2 and then Design 1 STOCKING STITCH CHEVRONS This in effect makes two vertical panels, each 2 designs wide, which are repeated up the jacket: the first a chequerboard of 2 alternate designs of stocking stitch and chevrons, the second of a chequerboard using 3 designs, with either flowers or stocking stitch, each alternating with ladders Chart C: Design Layout Chart C, Main Body designs and layout: 72 stitchs over 48 rows, in 8 panels FLOWERS Rows Stitches 1 to to to to 72 Rows 25 to 48 Design 1 Stocking Stitch Design 4 Ladders Design 1 Stocking Stitch Design 2 Chevrons 25 to 48 1 to 24 Design 4 Ladders Design 3 Flowers Design 2 Chevrons Design 1 Stocking Stitch Stitches 55 to to to 36 1 to 18 1 to 24 LADDERS Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 6

8 Thus, working across either Right Front or Left Front: - start with row 1 of Design 1, then row 1 of design 2, then row 1 of design 3, and then row 1 of design 4, and work upwards until all 24 rows of these designs are complete - then work row 1 of design 2, followed by row 1 of design 1, then row 1 of design 4 and finally row 1 of design 1 and again work upwards until all 24 rows of these designs have been completed - then repeat all 48 rows upwards and the 72 sts across as necessary - for larger sizes, work row 1 and then continue with Design 1 again until last 5 sts this will create one (two) extra panels, and then row 2 should start at the stitch number indicated in the instructions above Design 1: Stocking Stitch Row 1 and all odd (RS) rows: knit Row 2 and all even (WS) rows: purl Design 2: Chevrons Row 1: k6, p3, k3, p3, k3 Row 2: p3, k3, p3, k3, p6 Row 3: k5, p3, k3, p3, k3, p1 Row 4: k1, p3, k3, p3, k3, p5 Row 5: k4, p3, k3, p3, k3, p2 Row 6: k2, p3, k3, p3, k3, p4 Row 7: k3, p3, k3, p3, k3, p3 Row 8: k3, p3, k3, p3, k3, p3 Row 9: k2, p3, k3, p3, k3, p3, k1 Row 10: p1, k3, p3, k3, p3, k3, p2 Row 11: k1, p3, k3, p3, k3, p3, k2 Row 12: p2, k3, p3, k3, p3, k3, p1 Row 13: p3, k3, p3, k3, p3, k3 Row 14: as row 13 Row 15: p2, k3, p3, k3, p3, k3, p1 Row 16: k1, p3, k3, p3, k3, p3, k2 Row 17: as row 10 Row 18: as row 9 Rows 19-24: repeat rows 7-12 Design 3: Flowers Rows 1 to 4: stocking stitch 18 sts, starting RS with a knit row Row 5: k2, MFl, k3, MFl, k3, MFl, k1 Rows 6 to 10: stocking stitch 18 sts Row 11: k5, MFl, k3, MFl, k4 Rows 12 to 16: stocking stitch 18 sts Row 17: as row 5 Rows 18 to 22: stocking stitch 18 sts Row 23: as row 11 Row 24: purl 18 sts Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 7

9 Design 4: Ladders Row 1: k 18 Row 2: k2, p4, k2, p4 Row 3: k18 Row 4: p3, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p1 Repeat these 4 rows 5 more times, total 24 rows Schematics Left and Right Fronts (RS of right, WS of left) Sleeves Telephone: enquiries@blackerdesigns.co.uk Page 8

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