Celtic Knot. Nicola Ritter. Material Yardage Information. Dark brown stone (2) Leaf litter batik 4. ?? Border 1 31.

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Miles Clark
5 years ago
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Celtic Knot Nicola Ritter This is my version of the Celtic Knot on the cover of Celtic Pieced

I didn t buy the book, so I have made up my own instructions.

changed the pattern, which meant I needed some more complicated blocks.

Fabric Requirements I have put question marks for the borders and binding for the simple reason that I

Note that the inches below assume perfectly squared off and un-frayed material.

at least 1 more than the required lengths (depending on the supplier).

1 Celtic Knot Nicola Ritter This is my version of the Celtic Knot on the cover of Celtic Pieced Illusions by Karen Combs. It results in an (Australian) Queen Sized square quilt 9 x 9. I didn t buy the book, so I have made up my own instructions. It should be noted that mine is more complicated than the one on the cover; I wanted it larger and changed the pattern, which meant I needed some more complicated blocks. My apologies in advance if I have got anything wrong! Fabric Requirements I have put question marks for the borders and binding for the simple reason that I never make up my mind about these until I have finished the inner part of the quilt. Note that the inches below assume perfectly squared off and un-frayed material. Given that very few shops cut squarely and pre-washing (for me) always frays, I tend to ensure I have at least 1 more than the required lengths (depending on the supplier). Material Yardage Information Mid brown stone (1) 63.5 ( yds) Dark brown stone () 19 ( 3 yd) Grey stone (3) 3 (1 yd) Leaf litter batik 1 6 ( 3 yd) Leaf litter batik 0 ( yds) Leaf litter batik 3 30 (1 yd) Leaf litter batik 5.5 (1 yd)?? Border (1 yd) 3 border?? Border 31.5 (1 yd) 3 border?? Binding 30 (1 yd).5 binding 1

2 Cutting The cutting instructions below assume the methods for making half-squares and three-quartersquares described in the document HalfSquares.pdf. If you have your own method (and there are many), then you will need to alter them accordingly. Cut the following strips from selvedge to selvedge. Material 3.5 Strips Strips.5 Strips Stone Stone Stone Batik Batik 17 1 Batik Batik 5 Cut the strips above, to give the following numbers of squares. Material 3.5 Squares Squares.5 Squares Out of Extra.5 Strip Stone x squares Stone x squares Stone x squares Batik x squares Batik x squares Batik x squares Batik 0

3 Half-squares The instructions for making half-squares and three-quarter-squares are in the document HalfSquares.pdf. I make all of these up as I go, this gives me more variety in sewing. However you can make them all in advance if you want. I have been pressing all my seams to the stone side, to give an impression of the stone rising above the leaf litter. However I have read that half-squares come out better if you press them open; I haven t tried it yet. Half-Squares Number Three-Quarter-Squares Stone 1 - Batik 1 Stone 1 - Batik Stone 1 - Batik 3 Stone 1 - Batik Stone - Batik Stone - Batik 3 Stone - Batik Stone 3 - Batik 1 Stone 3 - Batik Stone 3 - Batik 3 Stone 3 - Batik Number Stone 1 - Batik Stone 1 - Batik 3 Stone - Batik 3 Stone 3 - Batik Batik 1 - Stone 1 Batik 1 - Stone 3 Batik - Stone 1 Batik - Stone Batik 3 - Stone 1 Batik 3 - Stone

4 Pressing and Blocks On the next page is a diagram showin the blocks that need making and the directions for pressing. Note that having started this way, I am continuing, but sewing them as rows of 3 squares might have been easier! Make each block as three rows of three, pressing the seams in each row to the left or right as shown by the arrow on the left of the picture. Then sew the three sets of squares together to make the block, pressing these seams up or down as shown at the top of the diagram. Pressing this way will ensure that you can lock the seams together as you sew. There are multiple blocks of each type, I find it easiest to make all the similar blocks at once. Note that pressing correctly takes much concentration! (I have unpicked several times already!) I find matching the points easiest by starting a seam, then lifting the right edge slightly to make sure the seams are aligned and then using an awl to hold the centre together as I sew. I find this works better than pinning (for me!). If they end up misaligned, I unpick only what is necessary to have another go. Sew blocks together to make rows. Sew rows together to make the whole quilt. Finishing I plan to add two borders, each 3 wide. I might put corner stones in the second border. I usually use.5 binding, to give a final 1 inch. If the whole thing looks too boring, I may applique the odd frog or lizard! Quilting? Up to you. I think I am going to quilt the edges of the stones, about 1 in from the stone edge, making sure I stop and start appropriately to emphasise the over-under effect. Then I shall stipple all the leaf litter areas and probably the borders. Of course I may change my mind and just stipple the whole thing on a frame! Thanks to all of you for enjoying my quilt! Nicola Ritter

5 The white numbers are the batik numbers (see page 1) and the black numbers are the stone numbers. The arrows show the directions of pressing. If you decide to sew it together as 3 squares instead of blocks, then you can ignore the top arrows. 5

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