Spider Web Supply List & Pre-class Homework

Transcription

1 Spider Web Supply List & Pre-class Homework There are two variations of this quilt - the traditional version with dark webs and a light background and my version with light webs and split kite pieces that use the webs as the background and showcase the dark two-toned stars. Both are made using the same technique - no foundations required. You can make as may blocks as you want, but I recommend at least 16 to form the pattern. You can always make more blocks if everything is scrappy, but if you re using just one fabric for the background (star) in the dark web version, be sure that you have plenty in case you get hooked and want to make it larger. I ve found this block very addictive! Webs: Eight string pieced triangles of miscellaneous med/dark fabrics make up each dark web and light fabrics make up the light webs. This is a great way to use up pieces that have been left from other projects. Basically, you ll be cutting pieces into strips that range from 1-2 in width (and everything in between) x 8 1/2 to 9 in length. You will need to cut and piece these units beforehand in order to get more done during class. I have included some photos and hints for making cutting these strings quick and easy. Light background stars for dark webs: Four kite shapes make up each background star. I used miscellaneous shirtings for the background stars of my dark version, but almost any light fabric will do. You can use just one single light for the background (not terribly interesting) or go scrappy as I did. Whatever you decide, be sure that you ve chosen something light enough so that there is sufficient contrast. I do not recommend plain fabrics, especially white for this project (this includes white-on-white). The white will shadow through and plain fabrics in general are more difficult to work with because they don t help hide anything. Something with a light background and a very small print in one or more colors gives you a little wiggle room when you re piecing the blocks together - the print tends to take your eye away from small problems. For one-fabric stars: four - 4 x 6 1/2 rectangles for two blocks. For Scrappy Stars: four different 4 x 6 1/2 rectangles which gives you enough for 1

2 two blocks. In the scrappy version, each of the four kites in a block should be a different fabric and the more fabrics that you have, the better. Cut and spray starch these rectangles before class. Split Kites for light webs: To make split kites, I chose two med/dark coordinating fabrics for each star. You need four split kites made from the same two fabrics for each star. Refer to the light web photo if this sounds confusing. For one Split Star: two strips of coordinating fabric that measure 2 in width x 22 in length. Sew the coordinating strips together along the long edge, set the seam, press to one side, turn the strip over and press the seams open. Once the seams are pressed open, spray starch them to hold the seams flat. Have these sewn and pressed open before class. Fabric for border, backing, and binding. You can choose almost anything for the border of one of these quilts, but I really like a scrappy piano key border. Tips for making a successful piano key border without waves will be given in class. Scrappy Periwinkle Star Supply List & Pre-class Homework Fabric: You can make as few as four blocks, but I recommend at least nine in order to appreciate the pattern best. If you ve chosen to make a large quilt, it s not necessary to cut tons of these pieces before class. Cut enough so that you ll have something to work on in class and you can cut the rest at home. Kite shapes for the star: Each star is made from four kite shapes. These can be all one fabric (not very interesting), or four different fabrics (better). For one-fabric stars: four - 4 x 6 1/2 rectangles for two blocks. For Scrappy Stars: four different 4 x 6 1/2 rectangles which yields enough kites for two blocks. The more different fabrics that you have for scrappy kites, the better. Cut and spray starch these rectangles before class. Triangles for each block: Each block requires 8 triangles. For scrappy triangles: one- 4 3/4 x 9 rectangle of fabric. This yields two triangles with some waste. If you cut the strip 4 3/4 x 16, you will get four triangles with very little waste. I recommend at least 24 different fabrics for scrappy triangles, and the more the better. Cut and starch these rectangles before class, but do not cut any triangles. 2

3 Additional supplies for all versions: Sewing machine in good working order with a new needle. This is very important, especially for the Spider Web quilts. In spots, you ll be sewing through quite a few layers of fabric and a new needle makes a world of difference. For piecing the blocks I recommend an 80/12 and for putting the quilt together, I d switch to a 90/14. If you re bringing a travel machine, be sure that it can handle multiple layers of fabric and that you have all the necessary parts. The Periwinkle block does not have multiple layers of fabric, but I still recommend a new needle. 1/4 foot for your machine. I recommend a 1/4 foot but if you don t use one, bring the foot that you normally use for piecing. Rotary cutter with a new blade and cutting mat. Very helpful but not necessary is a rotating cutting mat. If you have one, definitely bring it along. If you don t have a rotating mat, a small cutting mat that you can turn easily is best. Marti Michell Multi-Size Kite Ruler. Quilt in a Day or Nifty Notions Kaleidoscope Ruler. I prefer the Quilt in a Day. You cannot use the Marti Michell Kaleidoscope ruler. The instruction book shows the Kite ruler and the Kaleidoscope ruler working together, but they won t for this project. The Kaleidoscope ruler is also used for the small String Star quilt that can be made from the med/dark string leftovers. Both of these rulers are available at some quilt shops. If you prefer, I can supply you with one or both at a substantial discount off retail. The Quilt in a Day Kaleidoscope is $11, tax included, and the Marti Michell Kite ruler is $10.50, tax included. If you would like to purchase one or both from me, please me by mid-may and I will have them for class. I don t accept credit cards, but do take cash or checks. Any straight edge ruler at least 12 in length. If you ve taken a class from me before and have the 2 x 18 Draft N Cut, please bring it. It s wonderful for this technique. 9 1/2 square ruler with a diagonal center line. An awl or other tool of your choice for holding down fabric while stitching the spider webs. Pins with a large head. Scissors, seam ripper, thread, and other basic sewing supplies. 3

4 String Spider Web- Some tips for cutting strips This project uses strips that are left from other quilt projects or if you re not a scrap saver, it can be cut from miscellaneous scraps, fat quarters or yardage. The key is to have as large a variety of fabrics as possible. I can t stress that enough. If you re short on variety, try trading with friends or find a quilt shop that will cut in 1/8 yard pieces. The exact yardage is almost impossible to quote since we re using small strips and there will be some waste from piecing and cutting, but I do recommend strongly that at least 40 different fabrics is a bare minimum and more is always better. Don t be afraid to include some of that ugly stuff that you bought and have never cut. When everything is pieced together you won t notice individual fabrics, but rather the sum of the pieces. With string piecing, it s also easy to add additional fabrics at any time in the process. Since we re not using a foundation for this block, really poor quality fabric shouldn t be included. It s often not stable enough and can be difficult to work with. Save it for a project that uses a foundation. Matching is definitely against the rules for this piece. For the dark webs, lots of different colors will be the most interesting. It s OK to mix fabric types such as reproductions with batiks and homespuns as long as the colors don t fight and you re happy with the mix. If you re making the light web version, all kinds of lights work. Just keep in mind that getting too dark in a sea of light strips will tend to make the webs the focus and take your eye away from the split stars. We ll be using strips that range from about 1-2 in width and everything in between (slightly more or less is OK in small doses) and lengths no less than 5 1/2, but most cut to approximately 9 in length - this will make sense when you see the attached photos. If you find that you have a lot of strips that measure between 8 1/2 & 9, by all means use them for the longer length piles of strips! Many of them will work for the leftover projects. Mine were all cut at 8 1/2 and many of the leftovers worked, but I did have a few that were slightly too short so decided that cutting at 9 is a little safer. If you don t think that you ll be doing the leftover string star, 8 1/2 is just fine. As you can see from the following photos, the pile of pieces longer than 9 should be cut into 9 long strips. Once this is done, take anything 5 1/2 or more and add it to the 5 1/2 pile. Note: There is no need to trim these down to 5 1/2. Only the 9 pieces need to be cut to size. Everything else that s less than 5 1/2 can be saved 4

5 for another string piecing project or might possibly be used for a piano key border like I made for the light webs. If you want, bring these pieces along and we ll see what you might want to do with them. The 9 pieces will yield two triangles for the Spider Web and the 5 1/2 pieces yield one triangle so if you have a choice, the 9 length if best. I only include the 5 1/2 length so that you can make use of shorter pieces. Be sure to notice in the following photos that I haven t agonized over exact placement in my piles or even whether ends are perfectly stacked. That s the beauty of string piecing. You can use pieces that are less than perfect, sew them without worrying about an exact 1/4 seam allowance, and put together combinations of fabric that might not be what you call beautiful. Cutting Strips from Miscellaneous Scraps Gather scraps of all shapes and sizes. Stack the pieces with one edge and one end even. For viewing purposes, in this photo I have the bottom edge of all the strips aligned as well as the right side. I normally align the top edge and the right side since I m right-handed, but do whatever is comfortable for you. Trim the aligned end. It s not necessary to trim the long edge, just the end. This gives you a fairly even edge to use for measuring later on. I find that it also helps me line up the ruler for the next cut shown in the next photo. 5

6 Turn the pile and place a ruler along the aligned long edge. Begin cutting the pile into strips. My first cut here is at approximately 1 1/2 but it could be anything between 1 and 2. The ruler should be fairly straight but if it isn t, don t worry about it! Just place it and cut. Hint: I cut about 10 pieces at a time and stack them on the ironing board before cutting. I then press the stack with a hot iron and if necessary use a shot of spray starch to glue the pieces together. Set aside the cut pieces and make another cut along the same edge. This time I cut at 1 3/4 but again, whatever you choose is OK. Sometimes it s a good idea to check how much width is left and plan your cutting widths so as to get the maximum number of strips from the stack. Repeat this process until you ve made all the cuts that you can. Be sure to vary the widths with every cut. If you happen to have strips left from bindings, sashings, or jelly rolls and these measure 2 1/4 or 2 1/2, don t bother to cut the width. We can easily deal with them in class. If pieces are 3 or more, they should be trimmed. You should now have strips of varying lengths and widths. Divide the pieces into those that are 9 long or longer and those that are from 5 1/2 long to 8 1/2 long. Set aside the pile of 5 1/2 to just under 8 1/2 pieces. They re ready for class as is - no further trimming is necessary. 6

7 Stack the 9 and longer pieces into a pile, aligning one long and one short end. In this photo, the top and the left end is lined up. The right side shows all the different lengths in the pile. Trim the stack to 9 in length. Notice that the top piece still has selvedge attached. This is OK as long as it s not too wide. If there are still 9 long pieces in the pile, continue trimming. If some of the remaining pieces are 5 1/2 or more, add them to the shorter length pile. Pieces shorter than 5 1/2 can be used for a piano key border or other string project. Keep the two piles (9 strips & 5 1/2 - approximately 8 1/2 strips) separate and bring them to class separated. Note again that it s not necessary to trim the 5 1/2 - less than 8 1/2 strips to 5 1/2. Also note that the measurements given don t need to be exact. Since we re cutting in piles, some will be slightly shorter and some slightly longer - no problem! It s also not necessary to press these pieces before class as long as they re only slightly wrinkled. We ll be pressing and starching after we sew them together. Cutting Strips from Yardage If you re cutting from yardage such as fat eighths, fat quarters, or other larger pieces, a good idea would be to cut one strip from each piece and then cut these strips into 9 pieces. Vary the widths of each cut from 1 to 2 and everything in between. I ve found that cutting an inch or so off pieces in my stash is never missed and it s a great way to really increase the variety of your strips. Once again, don t worry about cutting slightly crooked, bends in the fabric, or about frayed edges, etc. String piecing is a fairly stress-free and forgiving technique. 7