ALL ABOUT SOCKS AND LEGWEAR

Transcription

1 ALL ABOUT SOCKS AND LEGWEAR

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS THEN How socks are made Sourcing & Distribution Manufacturing & Construction Knitting Construction Diagram Construction Terms Fashion & Style Men s Styles Women s Styles Construction & Finishing Yarn & Fiber Finishes Terms of Yarn & Fiber Frequently Asked Questions Notes NOW

3 HOW SOCKS YARN Yarn is received in either a raw (natural) or predyed (ingrain) form and stored awaiting knitting. ARE MADE FROM THE YARN TO SHELVES KNITTING Knitting is the primary process by which socks are made. Yarns and synthetic fibers are extremely sensitive to temperature and humidity; these conditions must be carefully controlled. Socks are knit on a cylindrical knitting machine. The number of needles around the cylinder determines the needle count of the sock. The greater the number of needles, the finer the sock; the fewer the number of needles, the thicker or bulker the sock. When socks come off the knitting machine, they are said to be in the greige (pronounced gray). In greige form, the sock has an open toe but in other respects, looks much like a completed sock.

4 TOE CLOSURE DYING/WASHING The next step is toe closure, where the toe of the sock is sewn closed. There are a few different ways to sew the toe, the two most common are: 1. Rosso toe closure machines are the closest to hand-linked toe. 2. Hand-linked toe leaves the flattest seam and is the most comfortable toe closure. Once the sock is right side out, the next step is for the socks to be batched for washing and dyeing. If the sock is to be white and is cotton, it is bleached. If the sock is to be coloured, it is then dyed unless it has been knit with a pre-dyed (or ingrain ) yarn. TURNING After the toe has been successful closed, socks are then turned right side-out. BOARDING/ PRESSING The next step is boarding. In this operation, the sock is stretched either dry or moist over flat metal forms conforming to the desired sock shape and size. It is then pressed between two heated surfaces. This gives the sock its shape and a smooth appearance.

5 EXAMINING/ REPAIRING PACKING Packaged socks are then packed in either poly bags or boxes, generally by the half dozen and are stored, ready for shipping. The boarded sock is then paired. Socks made in the same size on the same machine and dyed in the same batch will vary slightly in size. Socks are matched with others for size and then separated into pairs. At this stage, they are given a final check for quality (most mills inspect their goods more than once at the knitting mill, in all areas: dyeing, boarding, and pairing). FINISHING/ PACKAGING SHIPPING When orders are received, product is pulled from storage to fill the order and then shipped out to the customer. The sock is then ready either to receive decorations such as heat transfers, trim or embroidery if needed otherwise it is sent directly to the packaging department for labeling.

6 SOURC- ING AND DISTRI- BUTION Extensive international network spans all major manufacturing countries, including the U.S., U.K., Pakistan, Japan, China, Italy, South Korea, Vietnam, Turkey and Portugal to locate diverse quality sources and unique materials to fulfill special product requirements. Global distribution and information-based SAP full EDI and EDIFACT capabilities.

7 MANUFACTURING & CONSTRUCTION Construction is the way a sock is fashioned and is therefore an important element of style as well. One common denominator in all socks is that they are produced on circular knitting machines. KNITTING CONSTRUCTION DIAGRAM During production, fabric is constructed by the knitting of yarns, using knitting needles mounted in either single cylinders (for flat knits) or double cylinders (for ribs). A double cylinder machine has two cylinders, one on top of the other, which creates the rib pattern between the two cylinders. Depending upon the type of equipment and the style of sock being made, cylinders create stitches at a rate between 50 and 500 revolutions per minute. KNITTING CONSTRUCTION Vertical rows of stitches are called wales, while horizontal rows are called courses. The number of wales per inch depends on the size of the yarn used and the total number of needles mounted on the circumference of the machine s cylinder(s). This is known as needle count. For example: a very fine, lightweight men s sock may have a needle count of 200, while a coarse walking or biking sock may have a needle count of 60. KNITTED-IN DESIGNS Unlike detailing, knitted-in designs are produced on the knitting machine and take two forms: 1. Single color dimensional designs such as cables, clock patterning, basket weaves or crochets. 2. Multi-color designs which often have both dimension and more than one shade or colour.

8 CONSTRUCTION TERMS RIBBED Ribbed is the most popular construction. This traditional sock construction method is popular because it has visual and tactile appeal in addition to giving a sock needed elasticity. These are knit on a double cylinder machine. Ribbing is the vertical profile of the weave known as the rib. Socks may be knit in a variety of rib patterns for either function or styling purposes.a rib may be composed of one or more rows of stitches. To determine rib construction of a sock, stretch it slightly as it would appear on the foot, and the ribs will become apparent. FLAT KNIT Flat knit is the second most popular construction. For a flat knit sock, the fabric is knitted on a single cylinder machine, producing a fine, smooth surface with a jerseylike appearance. Flat knits are often used for casual and dress socks of all types; also seen in socks with treatments such as embroidery, or small neat patterns. ARCH COMPRESSION Arch Compression can also be called a support. Arch Compression is a strong spandex(elastane) band which is knit-in the foot of the sock and goes around the arch of the foot; this prevents the sock from slipping in the shoe and adds additional support. CUSHIONED Cushioned refers to the looping of the knit, generally in the sole of the sock (called terry pile) on one side of the sock, and a ribbed or plain knit on the surface. In most cushioned socks, especially those used for the purpose of athletics, the cushioning will be found on the foot portion of the sock. The cushioning is meant to reduce the shock of running or jumping, as well as prevent foot fatigue. Cushioning is common among socks for athletic purposes, although more recently has been seen in dress socks for men and women. JACQUARD Jacquard is a process for knitting in patterns, designs, or textures into the sock fabric. Jacquard equipment is slower than conventional knitting machines and the lower productivity is of course reflected in cost. MESH Mesh refers to the construction of the sock with an open texture either fine or coarse, this is primarily used in women s but can be found selectively in men s.

9 FASHION & STYLE AESTHETICS Aesthetics refers to the combination of color, detailing (such as patterns) or knitted-in designs (such as stripes or argyles). Aesthetic constructions such as ribs or mesh offer an almost endless array of styling possibilities. COLOUR Socks follow colour trends very closely and are able to offer lines of merchandise that coordinate with all current ready-to wear colour styles. With today s dyes and dyeing methods, there is virtually no colour or colour effect that cannot be achieved in a sock. DETAILING Detailing consists of any material applied to the sock body during or after manufacturing, to create a specific look. This may include lace, stitched monograms, embroidery, sewn-on cuffs, printed patterns or ironed-on decals.

10 MEN S AVAILABLE SIZES : STANDARD 7 TO 12 SHOE SIZE WOMEN S AVAILABLE SIZES: STANDARD 6 TO 9.5 SHOE SIZE NO SHOW Socks that hide inside the shoe. LINER Socks that do not show above the shoe. NO SHOW Socks that hide inside the shoe. LINER Socks that do not show above the shoe. QUARTER/ANKLETS Socks that just touch the bottom of the ankle. QUARTER/ ANKLETS Socks with a top designed to cover the ankle bone and extending less than one-third of the way up the largest part of the calf. MID CALF/CREW Socks with a top extending beyond ankle length but not beyond the largest part of the calf. OVER THE CALF (OTC)/ EXECUTIVE Socks with a top extending beyond the calf but not over the knee. MID-CALF/CREW Socks with a top extending beyond ankle length but not beyond the largest part of the calf. KNEE-HIGH/ TROUSER Socks with a top extending beyond the calf but not over the knee. TIGHTS Tights cover full leg and foot. CAPRI LENGTH Tight that extends under the knee. LEGGING Tight that extends under the calf.

11 CONSTRUCTION & FINISHING BLEACHING A process that removes colour from a fabric or sock, leaving it white. BOARDING An operation to create the shape of a sock. The sock is heated and formed on a board to form shape and a smooth surface; this process is very similar to ironing ( see page 6). CIRCULAR KNIT The circular knit is the primary knitting method for socks. A single or double cylinder knitting machine produces the sock in one operation. COURSE The horizontal row of stitches across any knitted fabric. CROSS-STRETCH The measurement of the amount of across-the-leg (or foot), as well as the stretch in a sock. CUFF The cuff is the top opening of the sock; generally the sock has elastic added to hold the sock up. CUSHION Any construction with a terry pile surface on one side and a ribbed or plain knit surface on the other. DYEING The permanent application of colour to a yarn or fabric. ELECTRONIC PATTERNING Use of an electronic device to control certain needles in knitting to create a pattern. FINISHING The final stages of finishing includes all sock manufacturing steps following knitting: bleaching, scouring and dyeing, boarding, pairing, ornamentation, folding, and packaging. TOE CLOSURE There are various types of closure methods: HAND-LINKED A labour intensive process where loops are joined together by chain stitch. LINTOE TM An automatic simulated hand-linked toe closure. ROSSO TOE A double stitched fine seam on the last course of knitting. FISHMOUTH TOE A method for closing a non-reciprocated toe pocket in which the seam runs parallel to the bottom of the foot rather than across the top of the toe. Used mostly on trouser socks and tight.

12 CONSTRUCTION & FINISHING RECIPROCATED In the usual knitting process, the sock is started at the top and knitted toward the toe. When it gets close to the heel, the machine begins to move more slowly in a semi-circular ( reciprocated ) fashion to produce the heel pocket. All socks do not have reciprocated toes and heels. REINFORCED Toe and heel areas are often strengthened usually with nylon or polyester to improve abrasion resistance and increase durability. RIBBED The most common pattern for sock fabric, composed of vertical ridges or wales. Ribbing also provides an element of elasticity. SCOURING A process (soap bath) that removes chemicals, tints, impurities and foreign matter from socks during finishing. SOFTENERS A chemical agent added in the wash cycle to add softness. TERRY A looped pile construction used inside most athletic socks and some work socks. TUBE A Symmetrically-knitted sock having no heel or toe pockets, i.e. non-reciprocated heel and toe. WALES Vertical rows of stitches in a knitted construction. WELT A fabric knitted separately and machine-sewn to the top of the sock.

13 YARN & FIBER The main generic types of fibers used in socks are: Acrylic, Cotton, Nylon (Elastane), Spandex (Polyamide), Polyester, Rayon from Bamboo (Viscose from Bamboo) and Wool. Each one of these fibers have unique properties; each has variants providing certain specific functional or aesthetic characteristics. Following is a brief description of each and the characteristics they bring to socks.

14 YARN & FIBER ACRYLIC Acrylic fiber is a man-made fiber spun into yarn, used extensively in men s and women s casual, dress, and athletic socks. Acrylic has excellent shape keeping properties and resilience, softness, easy care, low-shrinkage, rich colorations, does not itch, and permits a variety of aesthetics. One of its other advantages in active sports socks is its ability to move sweat away from the foot, transporting rapidly through the sock and top or to shoe surfaces where it can evaporate. This is important in strenuous sports use because sweat-soaked socks become hard and matted, ultimately causing discomfort and contributing to the possibility of blistering. CASHMERE Luxuriously soft, expensive yarn made from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat. COOL-ON Cool-On is a moisture wicking microfiber yarn that is designed to let air in and move moisture out; adding high performance and comfort. Attribute include: fast moisture absorption, quick dryness and silky touch. COOLMAX COOLMAX fabric is the performance fabric that includes an effective fiber-based moisture management system. The system can move perspiration away from the body, and through the fabric, where it can evaporate quickly, allowing the wearer to feel cooler. COOLPASS Coolpass is a high-performance polyester fiber. The X shaped channels speed up the moisture absorption and diffusion. Moisture is quickly drawn away from the skin and transferred to the outer layers for evaporation keeping your feet cool, dry and comfortable. SILK The luxury natural filament produced by silkworms. Characterized by high luster, soft hand, high tensile strength, and thermal properties. SORBTEK Sorbtek is a moisture wicking polyester yarn that helps keep feet dry. An incredibly efficient catch, move, release system keeps your feet cool, dry and comfortable. COTTON A soft and heat-resistant vegetable fiber used in garments since 3000 B.C. Cotton absorbs and retains moisture, and is readily washable. Like other fibers, cotton has several family members. These include: Sea Island, Egyptian, Upland, Pima, Mercerized and Combed cotton. Unlike man-made fibers which offer consistent quality, cotton has many grades, quality standards, and performance levels. COMBED COTTON Specially treated before it is spun into fiber and as a result an extremely soft version of cotton. EGYPTIAN COTTON Egyptian cotton comes from where its name suggests Egypt. Egyptian Cotton falls under the classification of an ELS (extra-long staple) Cotton. Their long length (about twice the size of other cotton fibers) allows them to be spun into very fine yarns. These yarns are soft and lustrous, yet very durable. MERCERIZED Mercerizing is a chemical heat process that results in the swelling of the cell wall of the Cotton fiber. This adds a sheen to the surface, gives the fiber a softer feel and is more color fast. PIMA Grown in similar climates as Egyptian Cotton, Pima has ELS (extra-long staple) Cotton. The yarn is woven multiple times into a piece of fabric to create a dense, soft fabric WOOL Wool is the soft, curly hair of a sheep which is spun into yarn. The Wool family includes Shetland (Scottish) and Merino (Spanish) Wool which are soft and of high quality. But most woolen yarn used in socks is made from standard grades produced in the U.S., Australia and elsewhere. (Alpaca and cashmere are animal hairs but are not properly called wool). Wool is warm, sturdy, and durable. It has a crisp, resilient hand and has excellent insulating properties. The quality of Wool is measured by the micron (thickness of the fiber). MERINO WOOL Comes from the Merion Sheep, and is known as one of the finest and naturally softest wool s. Merino Wool is great for sensitive skin as one of its properties is non-allergenic.

15 YARN & FIBER FINISHES CUPRA RAYON (CALVIN KLEIN TECH COOL) Curpra Rayon fiber helps moderate the interior temperature, as its fast, high volume absorption and release of moisture effectively carries heat away from the body. MICROFIBERS Microfiber refers to synthetic fibers that measure less than one denier (a unit of measure for the linear mass of density of fibers). Fabrics made with microfibers are exceptionally soft and hold their shape well. MIYABI (CALVIN KLEIN TECH HEAT) Miyabi is a very fine micro-acrylic fiber that is lightweight, recognized for its heat retaining properties and has a super soft hand. NYLON (POLYAMIDE) Nylon is a man-made fiber derived from coal, water, and air. Nylon has exceptional strength and abrasion resistance. It dyes to a wide color range, has excellent washability, and is fast-drying. It is used primarily in men s dress socks, novelties, and as reinforcement with other fibers. POLYESTER Polyester is a man-made fiber which has abrasion-resistance, excellent wash ability and is fast-drying. Readily heat-settable and dye able. Used in men s and boys dress socks, in decorative applications such as cross-dyeing and jacquards, and as reinforcement. RAYON (VISCOSE) Rayon - A man-made fiber usually derived from regenerated cellulose. Rayon has a soft hand, high moisture absorbency and retention, and good dye ability and wash ability. RAYON FROM BAMBOO (VISCOSE FROM BAMBOO) Rayon from Bamboo gives socks the extra touch of softness. SPANDEX (ELASTANE) Spandex is a man-made, strong, durable, and stretchable fiber. It can stretch to over 5 times its relaxed strength and fully recover. In socks, it is a fiber of extraordinary versatility. Widely used in sock tops for its stretch/recovery properties and stay up holding power. Increasingly used in corespun yarn and as plaiting yarn to replace textured Nylon for better size range, improved fit, and comfort. The best known Spandex in the U.S. is LYCRA Spandex. ANTI-MICROBIAL CONTROL FINISH A chemical that is added to the finish to control odor, as well as reducing bacteria. This helps to keep the feet fresh and odor free. FLAME ON (ULTRA FIT WARMING SHAPER TIGHTS) Flame On treatment contains nano-ceramics which absorb far infrared rays. When the far infrared rays penetrate through the skin, light energy transforms into heat energy. This heat energy increases blood circulation which causes the body temperature to increase. ULTRA-FRESH Ultra-Fresh antimicrobial treatments inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi responsible for creating unpleasant smells. By controlling unwanted microbes, Ultra-Fresh antimicrobials help to keep products fresh, hygienic, and odor free.

16 TERMS OF YARNS & FIBERS BLENDS The combination of two or more types of fiber in one yarn to achieve improved performance or styling effects such as heathers. BULKING A mechanical process which makes yarns fluff up to increase volume. CAPILLARITY The ability of yarn to transport moisture between or along the fibers for evaporation. CARDING A step in the yarn making process in which the fibers are cleaned, separated, and made parallel in a carding machine. A shorter staple fiber can be used in making a carded yarn. COLORFAST A term that describes fabric with sufficient dye retention so that no significant change in shade takes place during the normal life of the sock. COMBING A process which removes the shorter fibers from cotton after the carding process. Combing produces a yarn superior in quality to cotton yarns which have only been carded. CORESPUN YARN A yarn in which one type of fiber is wrapped or twisted around another. An example is LYCRA wrapped with Nylon. TURBO A process in which large bundles of continuous filament fibers, called tow are stretched randomly, broken, and drafted into sliver form. This sliver, with high shrinkage potential, is blended (or combined) with sliver having low shrinkage potential. After spinning this blend into yarn, the yarn is subjected to steam, and the resultant strains force the low shrinkage fibers to yarn surface as loops. This produces a yarn (and sock) with high bulk, softness,and loft. TWIST The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn. Normally, no more twist is placed in a yarn than is needed for strength and abrasion resistance. WICKING The capacity of a fiber to transport moisture away from itself. WRAPPED YARN A yarn composed of one fiber as a core, wrapped with a filament or spun yarn of another. For example, LYCRA Spandex is frequently wrapped with Nylon to improve strength and durability. YARN COUNT A numerical designation expressing relationship of length to weight. The higher the yarn count the thinner the yarn. YARN-DYED Yarn which has been dyed after spinning but prior to knitting.

17 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Why can t a sock be 100% cotton? If a sock were to be made of 100% cotton it would not hold its shape, therefore not allowing for repeat usage. Cotton has no elasticity, and in order to maintain shape and longevity, a small percentage of Spandex or Lycra needs to be added to the sock. How can wool be a fabric that is worn year round? Wool is very versatile and breathable, allowing it to be worn in the warmest and coolest of climates. Wool repels moisture, but maintains thermal properties to keep your feet warm through the winter, but allowing your foot to breathe and stay moisture free in the summer. How can a sock be non-elastic? Non-elastic socks are very beneficial for those with circulation problems. A sock can be made without elastic by typically using a combination of Cotton and Nylon. The cotton will allow for a soft, non-irritating texture, while the nylon will add the element of shape retention. In many non-elastic socks the Nylon will be in the foot of the sock, while the cotton is seen more from the ankle up. Which type of sock is best to be worn in the summer/ warm climates? When choosing a sock in different climates and seasons, it is often based upon personal taste and lifestyle. Typically, the best sock to be worn in warmer climates would be those that provide breathability and those of natural fibers, such as: Rayon, Cotton and Wool. Which type of sock is best to be worn in the winter/colder climates? Generally in colder climates more synthetic fibers such as Acrylic and Polyester are worn for warmth and comfort. Polyester provides a thermal barrier, and will keep your feet warm. Wool is a popular fiber for the winter because of its thermal properties and ability to repel moisture. How is Bamboo different than Cotton? Bamboo is a form of Rayon. It is a synthetic fiber and is known to be breathable and highly moisture-absorbent; whereas Cotton is a natural fiber. Bamboo is organically grown, and after it is cut it regenerates without the need of replanting and little water. The main difference between Bamboo and Cotton is the time it takes to regenerates after being cut. Bamboo produces a yield faster than you get from Cotton. What does Mercerized mean when referring to Mercerized Cotton or Wool? Mercerization is a chemical treatment that is added to the fabric that gives the Cotton and Wool a lustrous appearance. The treatment causes the fibers to swell, shrinking the overall fabric size. This treatment results in the fabrics becoming stronger, and easier to dye, creating a more intense colour. Mercerized Cotton and Wool will maintain its colour longer after wash and wear, and increase overall longevity of the sock. What is the difference between shoe size and sock size? While socks are being made, they go through a step called boarding (see page 6). In this operation, the sock is stretched either dry or moist over flat metal forms conforming to the desired sock shape and size. It is then pressed between two heated surfaces. This gives the sock its shape and a smooth appearance. Sock size is the size of the boards during this stage; when a pair of socks displays the shoe size, it is simply referring to the size of the shoes you wear.

18 NOTES NOTES

19 MCGREGOR SOCKS 63 POLSON ST. TORONTO,ON CANADA M5A 1A4 UPDATED: MAY 8, 2017