Ecuador: The Andes Introtour and High Andes extension

Transcription

1 Ecuador: The Andes Introtour and High Andes extension Main tour: February 10 th -16 th, 2014 Extension: February 17 th -19 th, 2014 Guided by Cameron Cox assisted at Tandayapa Bird Lodge and Milpe by Pablo Cervantes Birds highlighted in red within the text are species that have photos within the trip report Crimson-rumped Toucanet Northwest Ecuador is marvelously diverse and beautiful. It is loaded with birds and is particularly blessed with beautiful tanagers and gaudy hummingbirds. In fact, some of the most spectacular birds in the world are found here and many were seen during this tour. Much of the trip was focused on the bird rich Tandayapa Valley and surrounding areas with a trip farther afield to the lowlands around Rio Silanche. The extension focused on the High Andean region east of Quito and touched on a little of temperate zone on the eastern slope of the Andes. Tropical Birding 1

2 This tour was based primarily at Tandayapa Bird Lodge. This allows us to focus on seeing and enjoying new birds rather than spending our time constantly pack and unpack as we change location. The first and last night were spent in Quito and one night was spent at Guango Lodge on the east slope of the Andes during the extension. Highlights from the Tandayapa Valley included stunning hummingbird diversity including the captivating Booted Racket-tail at Tandayapa Bird Lodge, a pair of Strong-billed Woodcreepers foraging only a few feet from our faces at Tandayapa Bird Lodge s blind, a Crested Quetzal in the mist in the upper Tandayapa Valley, the odd but stunning Ocellated Tapaculo on the Research Station Road, and trumpeting Toucan Barbets along the main Tandayapa Road. Hilghlights from Milpe included lekking Club-winged Manakins, a surprising pair of Long-wattled Umbrellabirds, and a Spotted Nightingale-Thrush. Several stunning Choco endemics dominate the day at Mashpi including Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Indigo Flowerpiercer, and Glistening-green Tanager. Rio Silanche produced, among many, many other things, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, a rare Choco Woodpecker, and killer looks at Northern Barred-Woodcreeper. Our morning at Paz del Aves gave us up close and personal views of an Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek, Cloudforest Pygmy-Owl, Common Potoo, Lyre-tailed Nightjar, and three species of antpitta. On the High Andes extension the Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe was the biggest hit, but Torrent Ducks, Andean Condor, and Carunculated Caracara also were very exciting. In all had had 263 species on the main tour and added 42 more on the extension. Combining the main tour and extension we had 46 species of hummingbirds and 47 species of the tanager family. A hearty thanks to our bus driver Luis who knew the area perfectly, always got us safety to our destination safely, and when above and beyond every day to help me and everyone on the trip. Thanks Luis! February 11 th : Yanacocha Winding our way out of Quito as the sun rose we took in our first views of the western Andes. Soon though we arrived at the road leading up to the temperate forest reserve Yanacocha and got our first taste of Ecuadorian birds. A Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant hovering around the guard house became our first notable species. It perched on a building long enough for scope views but quickly vanished and we continued on to the parking area at the entrance to the reserve. Here we were greeted by a noisy, active flock of Tufted Tit-Tyrants that gave fantastic views. We next called in the resident Tawny Antpitta which also obligingly gave great views. While Tawny Antpitta is certainly one of the easiest antpittas to see, views of any antpitta are always exciting and this bird got us all in a good mood. We began hiking the Inca Trail which initially was a bit quiet on this chilly, windy morning. It became less quiet when we ran into the first of several flocks of Yellow-breasted Brush- Finches right along the road. From below us the weird wavering whistles of Undulated Antpitta could be heard while more Tawny Antpittas sounded off above us. Farther on we were lucky enough to encounter two Plainbreasted (Sharp-shinned) Hawks, a dark-morph adult and a rusty juvenile, soaring right above us. We began to get quick glimpses of small flocks of showy Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers; just enough to whet our appetites but few satisfying views. Arriving at the main portion of the reserve we took in the hummingbird show at the feeders. Both Sapphire-vented Pufflegs and Golden-breasted Pufflegs were coming in regularly. Every Tropical Birding 2

3 few minutes one of the huge Great Sapphirewings would arrive to drink its fill. Finally a quick view of a Swordbilled Hummingbird increased everyone s excitement levels. We waited a bit longer and the Sword-billed came in a few more times. We walked the steps to the upper feeders where many of the same hummingbirds were feeding but could now be viewed at point-blank range. The water feature attracted a ceaseless parade of Masked Flowerpiercers punctuated by a few Cinereous Conebills, and once by a stunning Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager that snuck in and was gone before everyone saw it. We began the trek back to the bus, but soon stopped to enjoy a Streaked Tuftedcheek. A bit farther on we played hide-and-seek with a Barred Fruiteater. It hid and we sought, but unfortunately it won the game. Soon though we finally got the looks at Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager we had been hoping for all morning and that gave us a boost. Our next find was an Andean Guan scrambling through the treetops on the downward slope so it was just at our eyelevel. Overhead we were entertained by flocks of the colossus of the swift world, White-collared Swift. While common, no one scoffs at a swift with an over twenty inch wingspan. Soon enough we were back at the entrance to the reserve where we grabbed our packed lunches out of the vehicle and enjoying a well-deserved rest from our hike. After lunch we found a Tyrian Metaltail coming into the nearby feeder. Loading back into the vehicle we continued on towards Tandayapa Bird Lodge. We made several stops on the way, with a major highlight being a stunning Crimson-mantled Woodpecker on the old Tandayapa Road. Another highlight was looking across a deep river valley to watch a distant lek of Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks. We could hear the loud calls of the males and occasionally one of the glowing red birds would come into view. Even at a great distance Andean Cock-of-the-Rock is a stunner, but we had plans to see them closer later in the tour. We arrived at Tandayapa Bird Lodge with enough time before dinner to unpack, unwind, and enjoy the show. The show at Tandayapa is the hummingbirds! If you haven t been there you haven t seen anything like it. Hundreds of individuals representing sixteen species were buzzing in and out while we were there, many of them absolutely spectacular. Registering high on the absolutely spectacular end of the scale were a number of Booted Racket-tails, many Violet-tailed Sylphs (photo next page), and a single Velvet-purple Coronet. There were plenty of other hummingbirds to look at and we kept looking at them until it was time for a tasty dinner. After dinner we had a little time to relax, but the following morning was coming early so soon we all retired. Tropical Birding 3

4 Violet-tailed Slyph looking flashy even without flash at Tandayapa Bird Lodge February 12th: Upper Tandayapa Valley Before breakfast we were marching down the trail that leads to Tandayapa compost pile/black light/blind. The black light attracts moths while the compost is loaded with worms and these tasty morsels attract birds at dawn. We took our places in the blind before the show had begun and waited. Soon we had Spectacled Redstarts and Three-striped Warblers snatching moths near the black light, a pair of Zeledon s Antbirds hopping everywhere, several crisply patterned Chestnut-capped Brush-Finches scratching at the ground, and a gaudy White-throated Quail-Dove strutting about. That would have been enough, but the real highlight was the pair of enormous Strong-billed Woodcreepers that were picking off large moths and beetles that had come into the light. The phrase Unforgettable experience gets thrown around and placed on things that completely forgettable, but being just feet from one of these giant woodcreepers as it bashes a sphinx moth into oblivion is truly an experience you will never forget. Walking back to the lodge we disturbed a Central American Agouti, a small mammal related to the guinea pig, which is infrequently seen in tropical forests. Back at the lodge we enjoyed a Masked Trogon while eating breakfast then gathered our things and took the bus up to the upper Tandayapa Valley. Tropical Birding 4

5 When we arrived the Upper Valley was shrouded in clouds and the bird activity was a bit slow. As time passed though we began to rack up more and more birds. Early on we had a special encounter with a Crested Quetzal, which at times was little more than a dark shape with a distinctive crest in the mist, but breaks in the mist would reveal the stunning green and red of its plumage. Walking the Research Station Road the number of calling Ocellated Tapaculos was unbelievable, they were all around us. We joined forces with three local birders and soon everyone was enjoying great views of the odd, pumpkin-colored tapaculo with silver spots. We had good luck with Ocellated Tapaculo so we decided to see if that luck would extend to one of the more typical, dull and skulky tapaculos. It did! We were able to call in a Spillman s Tapaculo and against all odds everyone got at least a reasonable glimpse of it. A mixed flock contained a Black-capped Tyrannulet, Barred Becard, as well as some of the expected tanagers including Golden Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, and Hooded Mountain- Tanager. An angry group of birds included our first Collared Inca and Speckled Hummingbird, but what was all the fuss about? Then we spotted the reason for the commotion, an Andean Pygmy-Owl. We were able to get a scope on the tiny owl before the angry avian mob drove it off, flying past us, across the road and disappearing. A very cool and unexpected surprise. The morning had worn on and it was time to start back to the lodge for lunch, but not before scanning for raptors for a few minutes. The clouds had opened and the sun was finally warming the mountain ridges. Several Swallow-tailed Kites were enjoyed by the group and then Dean spotted a distant Gray-barred Hawk that eventually floated much closer and gave good views. We thought this was our last highlight of the morning but it wasn t even our last raptor. Eagle-eyed Dean spotted several migrant Broadwinged Hawks from the bus as we drove back. Then pandemonium erupted as the unmistakable loud hooting of Toucan Barbets sounded next to the road. Jumping out of the bus we were able to call them in to the trees near us and obtain fantastic scope views of this colorful specialty. Tropical Birding 5

6 Red-headed barbet at Tandayapa Bird Lodge Back at Tandayapa Bird Lodge we had lunch and picked up a few more birds. Red-headed Barbets and Orangebellied Euphonias were coming to the fruit feeders. Later as we walked back down to the bus we picked up a Crimson-rumped Toucanet before loading up and winding back up the road for an afternoon of searching for more birds in the Upper Tandayapa Valley. Along the way up the Valley we stopped to view a noisy flock of Turquoise Jays. Large flocks of Blue-headed Parrots were commuting up and down the Valley now that the mist was gone. A quick stop at some hummingbird feeders at the top of the road added Gorgeted Sunangel to our growing list of hummingbirds and gave us better views of Collared Inca. Along the road we ran into a large mixed flock that contained a number of tanagers including Silver-throated Tanager, and the stunning Berylspangled Tanager, but the highlight was several glowing Grass-green Tanagers, a specialty of the Upper Tandayapa Valley. The flock also contained the charming Pearled Treerunner and, to the groups delight, Tiffanie picked out a Plushcap, another Upper Tandayapa specialty. We were also fortunate to run into a Golden- Tropical Birding 6

7 headed Quetzal to make it a two quetzal day. Too soon the day was drawing to a close and we headed back to Tandayapa to enjoy a bit more quality time with the hummingbirds before dinner and bed. February 13 th : Milpe Our first lengthy day trip caused us to roll bed early, wolf down some food, and climb onto the bus in the dark. Pablo Cervantes, Tanadayapa s Lodge Manager and chief Photo Guide, joined us this morning and his knowledge of Milpe helped greatly. We had several locations to cover in the area, but we started soon after sunrise at Milpe Gardens. Milpe Gardens is a beautiful property right across from Milpe Bird Sanctuary with trails and many flowering plants. When we arrived it was really hopping and we enjoyed nonstop action for about forty-five minutes. Our visit got off to a hot start when a mixed flock netted us Guira Tanager, Fawn-breasted Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager, and our first Ecuadorian Thrush. We saw several Common Tody-Flycatchers and then lucked into a Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher. A very cooperative Tropical Parula caught our attention next, followed by a Smoky-brown Woodpecker. Things were really rolling along! Working our way into taller trees we came across a small flock that included a pair of Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaners, a Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, and another Pearled Treerunner. Foraging in the same area was a Cinnamon Flycatcher. Towards the back of the reserve we made our first acquaintance with Variable Seedeater, the first of many, and enjoyed Yellow-bellied Seedeaters as well. We got to compare the similar White-lined Tanager and White-shouldered Tanager. We put the scope on several Chestnut-mandibled Toucans (now lumped with Black-mandibled) and heard their distinctive calls. A singing Olive-crowned Yellowthroat put on a show with a little prompting from the tape. Crowned Woodnymph with something stuck to its bill at Milpe Tropical Birding 7

8 Having cleaned up at Milpe Gardens we walked across the road to the Mindo Cloud Forest Foundation s Milpe Bird Sanctuary to try our luck there. The birding began in the parking lot with a stunning Collared Aracari, a perfect introduction to Milpe The hummingbird feeders were buzzing and we added several new species. Tiny Green Thorntails were everywhere as were Crowned Woodnymphs. A treat to see though it was only coming in briefly every few minutes was a White-whiskered Hermit. While we were drinking coffee and viewing the hummingbirds a Golden-olive Woodpecker flew in and gave good views. One of the main attractions of Milpe is the manakin leks deep in the forest. Soon we were working our way slowly down a muddy trail with manakins on our minds. On the way we stopped to view a Spotted Woodcreeper, but little else distracted us. Soon we began to hear he odd tooting of Club-winged Manakins. It took a while, but we finally found several cooperative males performing their ritualized dance on horizontal limbs high in the trees. Their entrancing performance kept us spell-bound for quite a while, but eventually the persistent calling of a Choco Trogon nearby drew most of the group away. With a little prompting the Choco Trogon was seen well. We were about to continue down the trail when two large dark shape flew in and landed in the trees above us. With a little maneuvering I was able to get my binoculars on one of them. LONG-WATTLED UMBRELLABIRDS! A complete and exciting surprise. One member of the group had asked earlier if we had a chance to see umbrellabird and I had replied that the chance was slim, but here there werel. They stayed high in the trees and were mostly Long-wattled Umbrellabirds perched in the most backlight spot imaginable at Milpe Tropical Birding 8

9 backlit, but we got the scope on them and everyone enjoyed the views. Finally they flew off and we continued on. We spent a long time waiting for the Golden-winged Manakin to arrive at his normal perch but were unsuccessful. One member of our group, though, was a dedicated manakin-lover and lingered behind when the group continued and did finally see the bird. Down the trail we encountered a Collared Trogon that allowed scope views. As the trail turned back toward the entrance to the sanctuary we came across a column of army ants. Often army ants trigger some of the best mixed flocks in the Neotropics, but the leading edge of the ants, where many of the birds concentrate, was too deep in the forest for us to see. It was an interest experience though, and we did pick up a small group of Choco Warblers and a pair of Zeledon s Antbirds following the ants. We made it back to the entrance of the Sanctuary and after enjoying the hummingbirds for a few more minutes we headed to lunch at the restaurant Mirador Rio Blanco. After birding hard all morning it was great to sit for a few minutes at the restaurant, but as soon as we had ordered it was back to birding. The restaurant is named for the view off the back deck. The Rio Blanco is far below at the bottom of a steep ravine and the view of the river and opposite mountain slope is absolutely breathtaking. From here we viewed graceful Swallow-tailed Kites soaring along the opposite ridge and spotted a Neotropic Cormorant in the river far below. The best birding though was at the fruit feeders they have set up specifically for tanagers. While we were there we saw the expected Golden and Golden-naped Tanagers but also Bay-headed Tanager, Blue-capped Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, and most beautiful of all, Emerald Tanager as well as Thick-billed and Orange-bellied Euphonias. It was a spectacular show to go with a great lunch. After lunch we birded another part of the Milpe Bird Sanctuary for a few more hours before heading back to Tandayapa. Things got off to a bang with a Spotted Nighingale-Thrush hopping along the trail ahead of us. With its black head and bright yellow belly it was hard to believe it is closely related to the somber, spotted thrushes that breed in North America. Nearby we lucked into a pair of Broad-billed Motmots. Next we encounter the first of many Ornate Flycatchers, a common, expressive flycatcher that can only be accurately described as cute. Farther down the trail came across a massive flock made up mostly of furnariids, just as a massive downpour struck. We were soaked almost instantly so there was no point in going back to the bus, we toughed it out and tried to follow the flock. Unfortunately trying to identify fast moving, dark birds in a dark forest with wet binoculars tends not to go well, but we did manage to pick out Streak-capped Treehunter, Scaly-throated Foliage-Gleaner, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Slaty Antwren, and a Tawny-breasted Flycatcher. Many, many others got away from us though. It was a fast-paced, frustrating, exhilarating, but, mostly extremely wet experience. Having had all the excitement we could take for one day, we loaded back on the bus returned to Tandayapa for a hot dinner. Tropical Birding 9

10 February 14 th : Mashpi Mashpi is a reserve at roughly the same elevation as Tandayapa so many of the birds are the same, but in recent years it has become a popular location because it hosts several rare Choco endemics. It is almost two hours from Tandayapa Bird Lodge so once again we were up early. Almost as soon as we got off the bus at Mashpi we picked up a couple of Glistening-green Tanagers (photo above), a Mashpi specialty and a particularly gorgeous one. A short ways down the road we connected with Mashpi s most celebrated specialty, a pair of Orangebreasted Fruiteaters. The excitement levels were particularly high as we watched this stunner, and it was a happy and excited group that continued down the road post-fruiteater. The best way to test how well your day is going is to try to get a group of birders on an antbird, so when an Esmeraldas Antbird start calling we gave it a try. Just as we thought, we were having a good day, the antbird came right it and even posed out in the open for a moment so its glowing red eye could be seen. We were having a good day, but there are limits, and apparently the bird gods drew the line at solitaires. We hear Andean Solitaire repeatedly but it refused to show itself. To make up for the solitaire the bird gods gave us another Mashpi specialty, a flock of 3-4 Moss-backed Tanagers. Farther down the road we spent some time calling in a Slaty Spinetail, a common but attractive spinetail. We made it to the end of the road and started back lacking only one of the Mashpi targets and we were almost back to the bus before we found it. A brilliant blue Indigo Flowerpiercer began calling and soon we had seen several well. Back at the bus we were feeling good about our morning when the piercing call of a raptor drew our attention to a Barred Hawk soaring overhead. Our final bird before boarding the bus was a migrant Olive-sided Flycatcher foraging from the top of a tall tree just as they do in the boreal forest of North America. Tropical Birding 10

11 Female Orange-breasted Fruiteater We arrived back early so instead of going back to Tandayapa Bird Lodge, we took a detour onto the Nomo- Mindo Rd. This immediately paid dividends when we spotted a White-capped Dipper bobbing along a fast moving mountain stream. Everyone enjoyed long views of this sharply-patterned dipper as it worked slowly down the steam. Up the road we were overjoyed to find a flock of Beautiful Jays that gave us fantastic views. Just up from the jay flock, a pair of Golden-headed Quetzals showed off in the scope. These became the first of SIX Golden-headed Quetzals we would see over the next hour. Finally we made our way back to distant Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek we viewed on our first day. Even at a distance the brilliant red males drew smiles from everyone. February 15 th :Rio Silanche The long drive to Rio Silanche requires the earliest morning of the tour, but it is well worth it to be able to sample the avian wealth of the lowlands. Rio Silanche is the lowest elevation that this tour visits and the birdlife is diverse and quite different from the Andean foothills. The road that leads to the preserve is largely disturbed habitat, a mixture of fields, pasture, and little woodlots, but is still quite birdy so soon after dawn on the fifth day of our trip the group gathered on this road enjoying our first good scope views of Bronze-winged Parrots. Both Chestnut-mandibled Toucans and Choco Toucans called loudly and allowed us to compare them in the scope. Near a small house we encountered the charismatic Pale-legged Hornero and the odd little Masked Water-Tyrant. A number of Gray-rumped Swifts cruised over the small valley to our west and we occasionally glimpsed a few Lesser Swallow-tailed Swifts among them. Farther down the road Tiffanie came through for us by finding a Great Antshrike that we were able to coax into the open. Our next find was a small group of Thickbilled Seed-Finches, the males singing from exposed perches. Then a surprise, male Hooded Siskin perched long enough for a good view. Rio Silanche is an odd place for any siskin, but there it was! As we got closer to the Tropical Birding 11

12 reserve we began to enter a more heavily wooded area and it was here we stopped the bus to view several gorgeous Scarlet-rumped Caciques. While we were enjoying the caciques we noticed several other large dark birds nearby - Purple-throated Fruitcrows. We spent some time watching these strange cotingas interact with one another, their metallic purple throats sometimes catching the light, particularly when they called. Just outside the sanctuary and small group of tanagers included Bay-headed Tanager and our first Rufous-winged Tanager. Purple-throated Fruitcrow at Rio Silanche Arriving at Mindo Cloud Forest Foundation s Rio Silanche reserve we immediately picked up a Black-cheeked Woodpecker hammering away in the trees above the bus. Initially things were quiet; a walk around the trails produced a Chestnut-backed Antbird that had no intention of letting us get so much as a glimpse of it, though it came in quite close. In an opening we had great scope views of perched Mealy Parrots and a distant Plumbeous Kite. We called up a group of Bay Wrens that gave us our best view yet of this loud, boisterous wren. Our luck improved when we spotted a pair of Northern Barred-Woodcreepers that allowed everyone long scope views. A mixed flock soon afterwards contained our rarest bird of the trip, a male Choco Woodpecker that stuck around just long enough for some of us to get views in the scope. This flock also added Streaked Xenops to our tally. While eating lunch in the canopy tower we enjoyed great views of Orange-fronted Barbets cavorting in the nearby trees. We also got the scope on a cooperative White-tailed Trogon that perched near the tower for over half an hour. After lunch we had crushing views of a Choco Trogon on a different set of trails across the road. Back near the entrance to the sanctuary an absurdly confiding Squirrel Cuckoo gave us all a thrill. We searched through numerous Purple-chested Hummingbirds and final found a Blue-chested Hummingbird. Just before boarding the bus to start making our way back we came across a large mixed flock of birds where we picked up Russet Antshrike, Cinnamon Becard, and Masked Tityra along with many others. Tropical Birding 12

13 Squirrel Cuckoo-Rio Silanche Working our way back along the Rio Silanche Road it apparently was large woodpecker time. We obtained great views of the imposing Guayaquil Woodpecker and when had some quick looks at several Lineated Woodpeckers. We arrived back at Tandayapa Bird Lodge with just enough time to once again enjoy the hummingbird show on our final night at the Lodge. February 16th: Paz de las Aves A morning at Angel Paz s private land is always one of the high points of this trip due to the effort Angel has put into making his property a place where antpittas and many other species thrive. This morning there was an extra element of excitement as road work was being done at the bottom of the valley that leads to Paz Del Aves and our bus became mired in deep mud almost immediately! We weren t going to let this spoil our birding though, so we hiked up the road a short ways and met Angel who would be our personal guide for the morning. Still dark, Angel led us down a narrow trail to a makeshift viewing area where we waited as the light slowly grew. Soon our target was performing right in front of us, a lek 5-6 male Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks. We had enjoyed Tropical Birding 13

14 Yellow-breasted Antpitta giving us a skeptical eye at Paz de las Aves our distant views of this spectacular icon of South American birdlife, but seeing them from just a few feet away was a whole new experience. As the light continued to increase the males displayed more vigorously and the spectacle only became more impressive. We enjoyed the lek for quite a while but there was more to see. Down near where the bus had gotten stuck Angel called out a very cooperative Yellow-breasted Antpitta, our first antpitta of the morning, but not our last. Since the bus was still stuck Angel called some relatives to ferry us up to the farm in small trucks. Once at the main part of Angel s property, our first stop was his hummingbird feeders where most of the species were the same as Tandayapa. However instead of a single Velvet-breasted Coronet, a hummingbird even more beautiful than its name suggests, there were many, and we added a new species, Empress Brilliant. Toucan barbet enjoying some banana at the Paz del Aves fruit feeder Tropical Birding 14

15 Next we stop were the fruit feeders where Crimson-rumped Toucanets snatched the grapes that had been left for them. We waited for a bit and our patience was rewarded when a troop of Toucan Barbets visited the feeders so close they were hard to photograph. While we were enjoying the barbets Angel was scouting. Soon he was back to bring us a short ways down the trail to where he had located a Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl. We walk along a slippery slope and got into position, training our scopes on the tiny owl! While we were all enjoying the owl when an Olivaceous Piha flew in and we were able to scope that as well. We still had more great birds to see and our next stop netted us our second antpitta of the day. This time a gorgeous little Ochre-breasted Antpitta. Next Angel brought us to a roosting Common Potoo. Through the scope we could see the little slit in its eyelid that allows it to keep track of all that goes on around it even while sleeping. Our ehhh s and ahhh s made enough noise that it half opened its eyes grumpily. Through some extreme bit of luck or possibly black magic, Angel coaxed a Gray-breasted Wood-Wren out onto the edge of the trail. We had heard many of this tiny skulker but this was the first we had seen well. We started back up the farm house but soon stopped to enjoy a small group of Sickle-winged Guans along the way. Once back at Angel s home we were served a fantastic brunch and fresh coffee, a fitting reward for trekking up and down trails all morning. We weren t quite done yet though so we loaded back into the trucks and headed to a slightly higher elevation. Here Angel called out our third and final antpitta of the morning, an absolutely striking Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. Then it was time to head back down the hill. We arrived back at the bus to find our bus driver, Luis, had gotten our vehicle unstuck and turned it around. Well done Luis! There may have been a little black magic involved there too as his clothes weren t even dirty. Angel had one more parting gift for us before we left though, a female Lyre-tailed Nightjar roosting on a cliff high above us. After our scope views of the nightjar we loaded back on the bus to return to Tandayapa for a final lunch. Ochre-breasted Antpittas are small but pack a lot of attitude Back at the lodge we gathered our belongings and ate while everything was loaded on the bus. We started back to Quito, but stopped along the way several times. We saw nothing new but enjoyed White-capped Dipper once again and encounter a flock of tanagers that included a number of Hooded Mountain-Tanagers. We returned to the hotel in Quito at dusk and enjoyed the final meal of the main tour, but three of us were continuing on to the High Andes extension early the next day so, bidding fair well to the member of the group that were leaving us, we called it a night. Tropical Birding 15

16 February 17 th : Antisana Our first destination on the first day of the extension was Antisana National Park. Antisana is special. While all the locations we enjoyed during the first part of the tour are all fantastic places to see birds and many of them are very beautiful, Antisana truly special. The mountain scenery is beyond the ability of human language to describe, the long stretches of wide open paramo grasslands let your eyes wander far, and the many of the birds are large and spectacular. Soon after entering the park we were enjoying a Shining Sunbeam, a beautiful, bright orange hummingbird of the high Andes. Nearby we flushed an Aplomado Falcon that streaked away at top speed. We were looking for soaring condors but our first soaring raptor was a Variable Hawk. Soon after we got our first view of the symbol of the High Andes, the great Andean Condor. Several condors were circling on a nearby ridge, some coming quite close success! New for the trip but a bit of a come down from Andean Condor, several Black-winged Ground-Doves fed quietly on the side of the road. A stop at the Ecuadorian Hillstar spot produced, Ecuadorian Hillstars. It also gave us good views of Band-tailed Seedeaters. Farther along we stopped near an old building surrounded by a field with shorter grasses than most of the surrounding paramo. Several Black-billed Shrike- Tyrants fought over perches on the abandoned building. Closer to the road we had the chance to closely compare the very similar Stout-billed Cinclodes and Chestnut-winged Cinclodes. Several Agile Tit-Tyrants came in to inspect our tape. Up on the hillside we spotted a Paramo Pipit and were able to watch it in the scope for a while. Farther up the road we drove through a stretch with perfect open paramo grasslands on either side of the road surrounded by towering peaks. Here we first spotted one, then two, then dozens of Carunculated Caracaras (photo next page). This raptor of the High Andes is very striking but also incredibly odd. While many were far up the slope, a few were quite near the road and gave us great looks. In this same area we picked up our first Andean Lapwings, large, strongly-patterned plovers of open grasslands. A flock of Andean Gulls wheeled above us while others stared at us from the paramo. We finally ran into our first small flock of Blackfaced Ibis just as a Carunculated Caracara decided it would be fun to buzz right past them at high speed. This put the whole flock of Black-faced Ibis to flight and we watched as their heavy wingbeats carried them a short distance before they dropped back into the grass. On the ground we were able to take long looks at them in the scope and really enjoy this magnificent bird. A Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle soaring overhead completed the suite of paramo specialties. Farther along, a quick hike around the grounds of the small visitor s center produced several bold Tawny Antpittas hopping around on the grass. Having worked so hard the day before to see antpittas gave new context to just how unusual the behavior of Tawny Antpitta is compared to its fellow. We were given access to the road that leads down to the lake, but only for an hour so we hurried down there and quickly picked up several attractive Silvery Grebes, Andean Teal, Andean Ruddy Ducks, and a few Slate-colored Coots. Tropical Birding 16

17 Carunculated Caracara on its way to cause trouble at Antisana National Park We backtracked out of Antisana and back towards Quito to pick up the road to Guango Lodge were we were spending the night. The plan was to bird around Guango all afternoon, then to go to Papallacta the following day. However as we wound up the road through Papallacta Pass that leads over to Guango I could see that it was clear and sunny at the top of the mountain. These rare conditions are the best for finding Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe so we decided to make an attempt for the seedsnipe right then. Driving up the narrow dirt road we saw few signs of birdlife except for a few Plumbeous Sierra-Finches flushing in front of the car. The top of the road, known as the antennaes is where we began searching for seedsnipe. Tiffanie and Dawn covered one area while I walked higher up the slope. It was uncharacteristically beautiful on the mountaintop that day; I barely needed a jacket, perfect weather for finding a seedsnipe and there they were! A gorgeous pairs of Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes, a short ways up the slope from the trail I was walking. I hurried back and got Tiffanie and Dawn, and we all enjoyed long views of these cryptic, but strikingly beautiful birds. Seedsnipe in the bag, it mattered little that the only other new species we saw was a Many-striped Canastero, we got the seedsnipe. We arrived at Guango Lodge later than expected, but still with a few hours of daylight left. We made them count, starting first at the hummingbird feeders were we picked up Tourmaline Sunangel, Long-tailed Slyph, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, and White-bellied Woodstar. Not new for the trip was Sword-billed Hummingbird, but our views at Guango far exceeded at views from the first day at Yanacocha. The forest was mostly quiet but we saw several Blackburnian Warblers. It is great to see familiar birds making their winter home in the Andes, so far from where typically see them. It gives more perspective to the incredible journey they make twice a year, every year. We ended up standing on the bridge over the rushing whitewater stream behind the lodge for quite a while. We were able to watch a pair Torrent Ducks with juveniles making their way slowly up the stream against the raging current. It was incredibly impressive how they attacked the fast moving water with no hesitation. While we were there, we also saw another White-capped Dipper and our first Torrent Tyrannulet of the trip. Back at Guango, as dusk settled, we relaxed in front of the fire before eating dinner and going to bed. February 18 th : Papallacta On our final morning Dawn decided to relax back at Guango while Tiffanie and I trekked back up to Papallacta, this time to bird at a slightly lower elevation near a hot springs resort. Papallacta was back to normal, cold, damp and a bit grim and for a while the birding was grim too but gradually we picked up some birds. Viridian Metaltail became our first new species. We enjoyed another flock of Tufted Tit-Tyrants, the first since day one Tropical Birding 17

18 of the trip. Farther up the road we encountered several gorgeous Blue-backed Conebills and flocks of Palenaped Brush-Finches. The always exciting Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers brightened our morning. Later we picked up a Blue-and-black Tanager. Our final and most exciting find of the morning though was a cooperative Red-crested Cotinga that perched up high where we could put the scope on it. We had a long drive back to Quito to make that day so we returned to Guango, gathered our things, and just had time for a bit more birding before we left. We picked up Mountain Avocetbill at the hummingbird feeders. Near the river we added the sharply-patterned Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant. Canada Warbler was another familiar species from home to add to our trip list. Finally a Barred Fruiteater led us on a long, merry chase that we eventually had to give up on due to lack of time before catching up with our quarry. We left Guango, threaded our way back through Papallacta Pass were the sun was once again shining, and finally back to the hotel in Quito to wrap up a successful trip. BIRD LIST H: heard only EXT: only seen on the High Andes extension END: Chocó endemic TINAMOUS: TINAMIDAE H Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui DUCKS, GEESE, AND SWANS: ANATIDAE EXT Torrent Duck Merganetta armata EXT Andean Teal Anas flavirostris andium EXT (Andean) Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis andina GUANS, CHACHALACAS, CURRASOWS: CRACIDAE Andean Guan Penelope montagnii Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii GREBES: PODICIPEDIDAE EXT Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis CORMORANTS AND SHAGS: PHALACROCORACIDAE Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus HERONS, EGRETS, AND BITTERNS: ARDEIDAE Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis IBIS AND SPOONBILLS: THRESKIORNITHIDAE EXT Black-faced Ibis Theristicus melanopis Tropical Birding 18

19 NEW WORLD VULTURES: CATHARTIDAE Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura EXT Andean Condor Vultur gryphus HAWKS, EAGLES, AND KITES: ACCIPITRIDAE Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Sharp-shinned (Plain-breasted) Hawk Accipiter striatus ventralis Barred Hawk Morphnarchus princeps Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris EXT Variable Hawk Geranaeutus polyosoma EXT Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranaeutus melanoleucos Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus Gray-lined Hawk Buteo nitidus RAILS, GALLINULES, AND COOTS: RALLIDAE EXT Slate-colored (Andean) Coot Fulica ardesiaca PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS: CHARADRIIDAE EXT Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens SEEDSNIPES: THINOCORIDAE EXT Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe Attagis gayi GULLS, TERNS, AND SKIMMERS: LARIDAE EXT Andean Gull Chroicoce phalusserranus PIGEONS AND DOVES: COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea END Dusky Pigeon Patagioenas goodsoni Tropical Birding 19

20 Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata EXT Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi END (H) Pallid Dove Leptotila pallida White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata CUCKOOS: CUCULIDAE Squirrel Cuckoo Playa cayana Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani NIGHTJARS: CAPRIMULGIDAE Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra POTOOS: NYCTIBIIDAE Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus SWIFTS: APODIDAE White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis HUMMINGBIRDS: TROCHILIDAE END White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui Tawny-bellied Hermit Phaethornis syrmatophorus White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans Green Thorntail Discosura conversii END Western Emerald Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus Crowned (Green-crowned) Woodnymph Thalurania colombica Andean Emerald Amazilia franciae Blue-chested Hummingbird Amazilia amabilis Tropical Birding 20

21 END Purple-chested Hummingbird Amazilia rosenbergi Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides Green-crowned Brilliant Heliodoxa jacula END Empress Brilliant Heliodoxa imperatrix Buff-tailed Coronet Boissonneaua flavescens EXT Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii END Velvet-purple Coronet Boissonneaua jardini EXT Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis EXT Ecuadorian Hillstar Oreotrochilus chimborazo EXT Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi END Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni Collared Inca Coeligena torquata Buff-winged Starfrontlet Coeligena lutetiae Sword-billed Hummingbird Ensifera ensifera Great Sapphirewing Pterophanes cyanopterus EXT (L) Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas END Gorgeted Sunangel Heliangelus strophianus EXT Tourmaline Sunangel Heliangelus exortis Sapphire-vented Puffleg Eriocnemis luciani Golden-breasted Puffleg Eriocnemis mosquera END Purple-bibbed Whitetip Urosticte benjamini Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii EXT Black-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia victoriae Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina EXT Viridian Metaltail Metallura williami EXT Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis Tropical Birding 21

22 Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti Purple-throated Woodstar Calliphlox mitchellii EXT White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant TROGONS: TROGONIDAE Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps Crested Quetzal Quetzal antisianus Blue-tailed (Choco) Trogon Trogon comptus (Western) White-tailed Trogon Trogon chionurus Collared Trogon Trogon collaris Masked Trogon Trogon personatus MOTMOTS: MOMOTIDAE Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum NEW WORLD BARBETS: CAPITONIDAE END Orange-fronted Barbet Capito squamatus Red-headed Barbet Eubucco bourcierii TOUCAN-BARBETS: SEMNORNITHIDAE END Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus TOUCANS: RAMPHASTIDAE Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus END (L) Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena laminirostris Collared (Pale-mandibled) Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus erythropygius Black-mandibled (Chestnut-mandibled) Toucan Ramphastos swainsonii END Chocó Toucan Ramphastos brevis WOODPECKERS: PICIDAE Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani Smoky-brown Woodpecker Picoides fumigatus Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Colaptes rivolii Tropical Birding 22

23 Cinnamon Woodpecker Celeus loricatus Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis FALCONS AND CARACARAS: FALCONIDAE EXT Carunculated Caracara Phalcoboenus carunculatus American Kestrel Falco sparverius EXT Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis PARROTS: PSITTACIDAE Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura pacifica Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidus Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus Mealy Parrot (Amazon) Amazona farinosa TYPICAL ANTBIRDS: THAMNOPHILIDAE Great Antshrike Taraba major Black-crowned (Western Slaty-) Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha Russet Antshrike Thamnistes anabatinus Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis H Chestnut-backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul END Esmeraldas Antbird Myrmeciza nigricauda Zeledon s (Immaculate) Antbird Myrmeciza zeledoni ANTPITTAS: GRALLARIIDAE H Undulated Antpitta Grallaria squamigera Scaled Antpitta Grallaria guatimalensis Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla END Yellow-breasted Antpitta Grallaria flavotincta EXT Tawny Antpitta Grallaria quitensis Ochre-breasted Antpitta Grallaricula flavirostris Tropical Birding 23

24 TAPACULOS: RHINOCRYPTIDAE H Ash-colored Tapaculo Myornis senilis H Blackish (Unicolored) Tapaculo Scytalopus latrans Spillmann's Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni EXT/H Paramo Tapaculo Scytalopus opacus Ocellated Tapaculo Acropternis orthonyx ANTTHRUSHES: FORMICARIIDAE H Black-headed Antthrush Formicarius nigricapillus H Rufous-breasted Antthrush Formicarius rufipectus OVENBIRDS AND WOODCREEPERS: FURNARIIDAE Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sancithomae Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus Black-striped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii Pale-legged (Pacific) Hornero Furnarius leucopus cinnamomeus EXT Stout-billed Cinclodes Cinclodes excelsior EXT Chestnut-winged (Bar-winged) Cinclodes Cinclodes albidiventris Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydorn rufum Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia variegaticeps Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Automolus rubiginosus Streak-capped Treehunter Thripadectes virgaticeps Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger EXT Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata Tropical Birding 24

25 EXT (H) Streak-backed Canastero Asthenes wyatti Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae (H) Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura TYRANT FLYCATCHERS: TYRANNIDAE Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus EXT Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus ophthalmicus Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps EXT Black-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum nigriceps Yellow-margined Flycatcher (Flatbill) Tolmomyias assimilis flavotectus Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erthrurus Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus Tawny-breasted Flycatcher Myiobius villosus Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus Western Wood-Pewee Contopus sordidulus Tropical Birding 25

26 Acadian Flycatcher Empidonax virescens Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans EXT Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris EXT Plain-capped (Páramo) Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola alpinus EXT Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montanus Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus COTINGAS: COTINGIDAE H Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata END Orange-breasted Fruiteater Pipreola jucunda EXT Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristatus Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruvianus Olivaceous Piha Snowornis cryptolophus Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata Long-wattled Umbrellabird Cephalopterus penduliger MANAKINS: PIPRIDAE Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus END Club-winged Manakin Machaeropterus deliciosus H White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus TITYRAS AND ALLIES: TITYRIDAE Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata Tropical Birding 26

27 Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus VIREOS: VIREONIDAE Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus CROWS, JAYS AND MAGPIES: CORVIDAE Turquoise Jay Cyanolyca turcosa END Beautiful Jay Cyanolyca pulchra SWALLOWS: HIRUNDINIDAE Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Brown-bellied Swallow Orochelidon murina Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea WRENS: TROGLODYTIDAE H Scaly-breasted (Southern Nightingale) Wren Microcerculus marginatus House Wren Troglodytes aedon EXT Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus Bay Wren Cantorchilus nigricapillus Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys DIPPERS: CINCLIDAE White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus THRUSHES AND ALLIES: TURDIDAE Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Spotted Nightingale-Thrush Catharus dryas Swainson s Thrush Catharus ustulatus Ecuadorian Thrush Turdus maculirostris Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Tropical Birding 27