Colombia January 2016 Paul Noakes

Transcription

1 Colombia January 2016 Paul Noakes Recurve- billed Bushbird. This report covers a 29- day trip from 09/01/16-06/02/16. There were initially going to be four of us but unfortunately one member had to drop out at very short notice so that left myself, Chris McGuigan and Ewan Urquhart. I had designed this trip to try and see as many Colombian endemics as possible and also to target many of the near endemics. I had visited Venezuela 25 years ago and we had all been to North West Ecuador in the past few years so were fairly focused on what we wanted to see. I was also keen to try and see Rosy Thrush- Tanager as some people have recently elevated this species to a new family. I only have a few families left to see and so this was an important bird for me. Logistics. I had been recommended to use Pablo Florez of Multicolor Birding to set everything up including guides, transport, lodging etc. He also suggested a few changes to the itinerary as there is now an accessible Indigo- winged Parrot site near Manizales and Blue- billed Curassow is currently reliable at El Paujil, so these sites were added. As a result we lost a bit of time at other sites such as Santa Marta but the changes were worthwhile. The ground arrangements were faultless with very good guides. Hernan Arias in particular being excellent, knowing the sites inside out, having exceedingly sharp eyes and being very focused on finding the birds we needed. Both he and Pablo had back up sites for various species if we dipped at the main ones. The only problem we had was an internal flight that was delayed by one hour but it did not really cause any problems. When Pablo was not with us he was in almost daily contact to make sure things were going ok. I would whole- heartedly

2 recommend him. Please note if you do use him he can take some time to reply to e- mails as he is out in the field so much. Transport The drivers were also really good and were able to look after all the gear in the car when we were out. Juan Julio who drove us over half the time was particularly good company, was really into birds himself and had radios to call us if he found anything interesting. Bear in mind that travel in the Andes is very slow. We did have some long travel days particularly travelling from the Cerulean reserve to El Paujil, not helped by taking a wrong turn. However travelling straight up the Magdalena valley from Rio Claro to Ibague was really fast as it was as good, straight, flat road. Guides We had six different guides in all. Pablo used guides who were the local experts such as Hernan in the western and central Andes, and Gabriel in the Caribbean. This worked really well as their local knowledge proved extremely useful. Cost We flew with Avianca direct from London Heathrow for 830. The total ground costs were US$5950 each. This included everything such as food and drinks, plus unlimited and copious quantities of snacks during the day, which kept Chris very happy. I changed 150 at the airport but never used any of it apart from for tips and gifts at the end. So costs were dramatically lower than using a British tour company. As we were in a party of just three plus guide we had few if any problems getting on to birds. Weather. Colombia was experiencing an exceptional drought in part due to El Nino. States of emergency had been declared in many states. These dry conditions certainly seemed to reduce bird activity with many not singing and only limited responsiveness to tapes. As a consequence we missed quite a few species we had expected to get. Luckily with expert guides and being just three highly focused birders we nevertheless did pretty well. Colombia is excellent for hummers, we saw 69 species including this Golden- breasted Puffleg and Rainbow- bearded Thornbill.

3 Birds Endemics seen Chestnut-winged Chachalaca Colombian Chachalaca Cauca Guan Blue-billed Curassow Chestnut Wood Quail Gorgeted Wood Quai Bogota Rail Tolima Dove Santa Marta Screech Owl Indigo-capped Hummingbird Santa Marta Blossomcrown Black Inca White-tailed Starfrontlet Dusky Starfrontlet Black-backed Thornbill Green-bearded Helmetcrest Buffy Helmetcrest Santa Marta Woodstar White-mantled Barbet Santa Marta Toucanet Grey-throated Toucanet Greyish Piculet Beautiful Woodpecker Yellow-eared Parrot Rufous-fronted Parakeet Fuertes's Parrot Santa Marta Parakeet Brown-breasted Parakeet Rusty-headed Spinetail Silvery-throated Spinetail Streak-capped Spinetail Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner Santa Marta Antbird Parker's Antbird Brown-banded Antpitta Urrao Antpitta Santa Marta Tapaculo Stiles's Tapaculo Brown-rumped Tapaculo Pale-bellied Tapaculo Alto Pisones Tapaculo Antioquia Bristle Tyrant Santa Marta Bush Tyrant Apical Flycatcher Chestnut-capped Piha Apolinar's Wren Antioquia Wren Niceforo's Wren Munchique Wood Wren Hermit Wood Wren Bang s Wood Wren Velvet-fronted Euphonia Santa Marta Warbler White-lored Warbler Yellow-crowned Whitestart Red-bellied Grackle Sierra Nevada Brush-Finch Santa Marta Brush-Finch Yellow-headed Brush-Finch Flame-rumped Tanager Black-and-gold Tanager Gold-ringed Tanager Santa Marta Mountain Tanager Multicoloured Tanager Turquoise Dacnis Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer Sooty Ant-Tanager Crested Ant-Tanager

4 I had originally planned the itinerary so that it gave us the chance of seeing over 70 endemics. That was with fairly radical taxonomy such as splitting the Wood Wrens, Toucans and Santa Marta Rufous Antpitta. Mountain Grackle was theoretically possible but highly unlikely at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. In the end we recorded 72 of these, seeing 69 of them between us but I actually only saw 68 endemics. So overall we were pretty successful, although with a bit of luck it could easily have been more. We also saw some brilliant near- endemics such as Saffron- headed Parrot, Bicoloured Antpitta and possibly bird of the trip Recurve- billed Bushbird. In all we recorded 725 species and I saw 158 new species. Endemic Dips Unfortunately we dipped on the following endemics. Sapphire- bellied Hummingbird. Only one hummer was present at Barranquilla and it was Sapphire- throated. There is some doubt that this is actually a valid species and not just a morph of Sapphire- throated Hummingbird. Tolima Blossomcrown. No sign at Combeima Canyon of this recently split species. Chestnut- bellied Hummingbird. No sign below Cerulean Reserve. The third time Pablo had dipped this month. Santa Marta Antpitta. We heard several but could just not see any. Santa Marta Rufous Antpitta. Not yet split, we heard a couple but no response to tape although we did not have time to try really hard. Paramillo Tapaculo. Four heard at Colibri del Sol. A movement was glimpsed at the base of a bush that one was calling from but then a wren flew out! Magdalena Tapaculo. Ewan did see one of these at the Cerulean Warbler reserve but neither Chris nor I got onto it. Mountain Grackle. Can occasionally be seen at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. We tried in some highland forest outside Bucaramanga but no sign. Bronze- brown Cowbird. No sign near Barranquilla. Gabo seemed very vague about seeing these and I feel we did not really try hard for this species. The taxonomic status of this species is debatable. The weather conditions most certainly did not help us. Almost all sites were bone dry with very low levels of bird activity. We only had any rain on three days. Once a brief spell of light drizzle, another time 10 mins of proper rain and lastly as we were leaving Ibague it chucked it down. As a result the wellington boots we had brought with us were totally unnecessary. The only bonus was there were no landslips or floods that can cause problems in some years. Although we did well with many of the specialities we did miss quite a lot of birds as they were just not calling or were not tape responsive. Many birds only came into tape silently. Similarly we often had to spend so much time getting the endemics that we ran out of time for other species. We also did not target many

5 of the birds that we had previously seen in Ecuador so there are quite a few other species that do not appear on our totals that should normally be seen with a little effort. Itinerary Jan 9 Arrived Bogota 5am, Pedro Palo Forest and below at Grand Via, pm Chicaque Jan 10 Chingaza, Bio Andina, Guasca late pm Jan 11 Florida am 09:50 flight to Riohacha. Pm birding scrub towards Los Flamencos Jan 12 Flamencos, 11 am drive to Taironaka lodge then Minca late pm Jan 13 Coal road near airport at dawn for Rufous- winged Chachalaca, then Salamanca Mangroves and marshes nearby. Pm above Minca. Jan 14 birding up from Minca to El Dorado for lunch. Pm just below El Dorado Jan 15 ridge up above El Dorado am. Pm lodge area and below. Jan 16 birding a few Km above El Dorado. Left El Dorado 10 am lunch at Minca, flight from Santa Marta 16:45 via Bogota to Pereira. Delayed 1hr. Picked up by Juan and driven to Otun Jan 17 Otun all day. Jan 18 Owling pre- dawn, drive to Santa Rosa de Cabal. PM Nevada del Ruiz and Hotel Thermales area. Jan 19 birding below Hotel Thermales am, around hotel grounds after lunch birding lower levels before driving to Manizales arriving after dark Jan 20 arrived Rio Blanco at first light staying until after dark for owling. Jan 21 long drive to Cauca valley, birding for several hours, Jardin for lunch, birding above Jardin in afternoon before Cock of the Rock lek. Jan 22. Yellow- eared Parrot site for dawn and then birding back down to Jardin. Stop in Cauca valley then long drive to Las Tangaras. Jan 23 All day Las Tangaras Jan 24 All day Las Tangaras Jan 25 early search for Crested Ant- Tanager drive to Tanager Finch reserve then to Urrao and walk/ride to Colibri de Sol arriving an hour or so before dark. Jan 26 Colibri de Sol Jan 27 walk out took 1.5hrs, Cauca Valley and then drive via Medellin to Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. Jan 28 all day Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. Jan 29 early morning Piha reserve. Drive out stopping at Porce river Canyon. 15:50 flight from Medellin to Bucaramanga. Overnight Govan. Jan 30 birding outside Bucaramanga, and en route to Cerulean warbler reserve. Jan 31 Cerulean Warbler reserve Feb 1 Cerulean Warbler reserve early morning then drive to El Paujil. Feb 2 El Paujil am. leaving after lunch for Rio Claro Feb 3 all day Rio Claro Feb 4 early am Rio Claro drive to Canyon de Combeima with stops en route. Feb 5 Canyon de Combeima am and near Ibague, drive to Bogota late pm. Feb 6 Sumapaz, pm back to Bogota. Flight back to UK 23:04

6 Daily Log 9/1/16 We arrived at 04:30, got though customs pretty smoothly and were met by Dave Geale who was guiding us for our first few days. We drove straight out to Laguna Pedro Palo. Here we failed to find any Black Incas or Turquoise Dacnis but the highlight was good views of Short- tailed Emerald, which we knew would be the only one of the trip. Bar- crested Antshrike Next we had lunch at Chicaque where some really good feeders were attended by good numbers of hummers including the stunning Golden- bellied Starfrontlet. Golden- bellied Starfrontlet

7 We then headed down to a lower elevation in the hope we might find Velvet- fronted Euphonia, which can occasionally be found there but failed. We did get good views of Bar- Crested Antshrike and Spectacled Parrotlet though. A walk along the road was deathly quiet although we did manage views of Blackish Tapaculo. The fog then descended so we called it a day and headed back through the horrendous Bogota traffic to our hotel. Best bird Short- Tailed Emerald. 10/1/16 left at 5am for Chingaza national park hoping for goodies such as Rufous- browed Conebill, Bronze- tailed Thornbill and others. However it was dead. A couple of Plushcaps added interest but it was very hot and bone dry with little activity. So we decided to head over to Bio Andina to try for Brown- breasted Parakeet and Pale- bellied Tapaculo. We soon got a reaction to a tape of the Tapaculo and were able to get good views of this slightly different species. First endem down. We knew the Parakeets could be a different matter but within a few minutes Dave had found a perched group and we got great views. However, from then on things dried up. Brown- breasted Parakeet The heat meant very few things were calling and although we did find one good flock we could not find any of our main target, Coppery- bellied Puffleg. A local had a feeder out in his garden and he said he did often get the Puffleg there. However he had been away for two weeks and the feeder had only been put back up two days earlier so not many birds were using it. A female Blue- throated Starfrontlet was very good though. One likely candidate for a Coppery Bellied Puffleg appeared for a fraction of a second. I was fairly sure it had a brown belly before it was kicked off by a Glowing Puffleg, never to reappear.

8 We eventually ran out of time, so we headed off to Guasca gravel pits to try and see Bogota Rail. Soon after arriving we got views of two very close birds that came into tape in thick reeds and later had one out on the edge of a pond. Guasca can be good for Noble Snipe but the only birds we flushed were clearly Wilson s. Another long journey through the Bogota traffic saw us back at our hotel and sushi at the local Restaurant Wok. Here we met up for a quick chat with Pablo who was there with another one of his groups. 11/1/16 We had one chance on this trip to see Subtropical Doradito, which I had dipped on twice before in Ecuador. So at 7 am we were at the gates to the Golf course at La Florida for an attempt to see this and also Apolinar s Wren. Unfortunately the reedbeds were really dry with very few of them being green but mostly a dried out brown. Needless to say there was no sign of the Doradito or Wren and for the first time at this site for Dave, absolutely no Yellow- headed Blackbirds either. The single highlight was a male Andean Siskin that dropped out of the sky to feed on some seed heads right in front of us. Similarly there was no response to tapes of either Rufous- browed Conebill or Silvery- throated Spinetail. It was now dawning on us that we were going to miss quite a few species on this trip as a consequence of the drought and that we would seriously have to adjust our expectations as to what we were going to see. Our flight to Riohacha went smoothly, although checking in without a ticket seemed a little odd but this happened on all our flights without any problems at all. We arrived at Riohacha airport and were met by Gabriel Utria. He was originally going to be our guide for the entire part of our trip in the North but he had been given a last minute opportunity to go to the Spanish Bird Fair so he was only going to be with us for three days. We dropped our bags off at the hotel and got some lunch at a beachside restaurant in town. At 3 pm we headed out west to Los Flamencos and what appeared to be an old road for our first dry country birding. It was hot but there were new birds everywhere. Trinidad Euphonias were calling as soon as we stepped out of the car and almost immediately I picked up a pair of Rufous Piculets and then Black- crested Antshrikes. Chestnut Piculet Black- crested Antshrike A pair of Vermillion Cardinals was more difficult to pin down with only the female being seen well. Bare- eyed Doves were seen flying over but the only perched one was a bit distant. Really smart White- whiskered Spinetails

9 performed and must surely rank as one of the best- looking Spinetails. Other species included Pileated Finch, Straight- billed Woodcreeper and Scaled Dove. We then headed further west to an area of slightly thicker forest where Gabriel hoped to get Rufous- vented Chachalaca. While we were driving along at high speed Gabriel mentioned that this was a good area for Double- striped Thicknee. Just as he mentioned this I spotted a couple standing in a field right next to the road! Screeching to a halt we reversed back to see a group of Southern Lapwings but luckily for me there was indeed a small group of Thicknees just the other side of the fence. A smart tick for Ewan. Tweny minutes later we were at our destination and soon had picked up yet more goodies. Possibly best of these was the stunning Russet- throated Puffbird, but Glaucous Tanager, Northern Scrub Flycatcher, Grey Seedeater and Scrub Greenlet were all good. Russet- throated Puffbird Double- striped Thicknee As the light started to go some Chachalacas appeared but were extremely wary and took some time to get views off. They are clearly heavily persecuted here. Really happy with what we had managed to achieve so quickly this afternoon we headed back town for food and our hotel. 12/1/16. Before dawn we set off for a different area of dry scrub near Los Camarones in Flamencos National park where we were meeting Jose, a local Indian guide. Soon Gabo had heard a Venezuelan Flycatcher calling and we got looks at this uncommon Myiarchus flycatcher. Once again new birds flowed thick and fast. Orinocan Saltators performed well, Northern Scrub Flycatchers showed closer than yesterday, Slender- billed Inezias were good but we could not locate any Pale- tipped Inezias, which Jose said were particularly difficult at the moment. Orinocan Saltator Slender- billed Inezia.

10 A single Dickcissel was the only one of the trip. Jose then took us to some flowering bushes where a couple of Buffy Hummingbirds fed at close quarters. This subtle species can be quite difficult so it was good to get it under our belts. Egrets and Ibises abounded and we eventually got to see a Caribbean Hornero. A search for the tough Crested Bobwhite proved fruitless though. We then headed back to the village and the beach area to check the waders and gulls. A big group of Royal and Cabot Terns contained a few Laughing Gulls but two larger birds proved to be a Kelp Gull and Lesser Black- backed Gull. The former was a new bird for Gabo. A feeding group of Back Skimmers was nice but there was nothing unusual amongst the Marbled Godwits and Willets and distant presumed Semi- ps. Having had our fill of gulls and waders we headed further west to a different scrubby site to search for Tocuyo Sparrow. It was now getting hot and activity was noticeably quieter. After half an hour there was no sign and as we were walking along a fenced road through the scrub there was little chance of just bumping into one. However, Jose soon heard a Crested Bobwhite quietly calling and a couple flushed but gave totally un- tickable views. A bit of gentle tape playing brought them back again and I managed to get some views through the bushes of a very scruffy, shy bird, crest and all. The Sparrow though looked like it was destined to be yet another of our dips but I noticed a small path through some better- looking forest and suggested to Gabo we tried it. Within minutes Gabo had heard the quiet contact calls of a bird. Soon we were getting glimpses of this demure Sparrow and after a bit of time it came right out in the open and gave great views. Buffy Hummingbird Tocuyo Sparrow So apart from Pale- tipped Inezia we had cleared up on all the dry forest specials and headed off towards Santa Marta. We stopped at a small river and got a small boat for a ten minute ride up to Taironaka lodge. This is in an area of moist forest at the base of the Santa Marta Mountains. Here we ordered lunch and while waiting wandered around the lush grounds picking up species such as Pale- bellied Hermit, Black- chested Jay and Buff- breasted Wren. After lunch Gabo took us for a short walk and soon we had picked up our targets of Southern Bentbill and White- bellied Antbird as well other goodies such as Lance- tailed Manakin and Orange- crowned Oriole. Successful again we caught the boat back out and headed for Santa Marta Mountain proper and eventually Minca. A stop to look for the localised Black- backed Antshrike was unsuccessful although Gabo said there was another

11 chance. Traffic outside Santa Marta was dominated by the most amazingly high number of blue buses but eventually we got past them all and headed up to Minca. A stop part way up was at first unsuccessful but just as we were leaving a bird started calling and so we managed to get decent views of a pair of Back- backed Antshrikes. Arriving at the Minca hotel shortly before the light went gave us time to watch the multiple hummingbirds on the feeders. These were dominated by Steely- vented Hummingbirds and White- vented Plumeleteers. There were smaller numbers of White Necked Jacobins, Rufous- tailed Hummingbirds and just one Rufous- breasted Hermit present. Amazingly the restaurant was not open that evening so supper was taken up the road where we planned what to do the next day. Gabo was not aware that we really wanted to get the endemic Chestnut- winged Chachalaca so we changed the plan slight to get this near the airport at dawn before heading off to Los Flammencos for the specials there. We reckoned that the endemic Sapphire- bellied Hummingbird would be active all day if present. 13/1/16. Before first light we were on the road near the airport and had already glimpsed a few silhouettes of Chachalacas in the Cecropia trees. Gradually as it got light we were able to get some features on them and make out their bright rufous wings. The rumbling of coal trucks on the road was somewhat off putting so soon after sunrise we headed off towards Barranquilla hoping for Sapphire- bellied Hummingbird. The taxonomic status of this form is very debatable with some thinking it is just a morph of Sapphire- throated Hummingbird. There are estimated to be less than 250 so the only chance is if the trees around the headquarters are in flower. An hour later we were at the HQ headquarters of Salamanca Reserve and unsurprisingly there were no flowers in sight. A single hummer was perched up which Gabo confidently announced was just a Sapphire- throated. Never mind it was still a tick for me. Some very obliging Panama Flycatchers were good but best for us Brits were the multiple Prothonatory Warblers. The mangroves held plenty of these along with many Northern Waterthrushes. Other species included a close, roosting Lesser Nighthawk, Bare- throated Tiger- Heron, Straight- billed Woodcreeper and Smoky- brown Woodpecker. Sapphire- throated Hummingbird Panama Flycatcher We had to admit defeat on the hummer and headed out to an area of marsh and farmland nearby. Gabo seemed very vague about Bronze- brown Cowbird just saying that it was very difficult. Its taxonomic status seems equally vague

12 usually being treated as a slightly different form of Bronze Cowbird. Anyway arriving at a farm full of Water Buffalo, a big flock of Cowbirds looked promising. However there were no contenders, all just being Screaming Cowbirds with a load of Carib and Great- tailed Grackles. Other birds abounded and so Gabo suggested we walk out across the marshes. Having birded the Llanos of Venezuela I knew that there was little out there that was likely to be new for me except for Northern Screamer which was guaranteed later in the trip. However it was a tick a minute for Chris and Ewan as Stripe- backed Wrens competed with Cattle Tyrants, White- headed Marsh Tyrants, Wattled Jacanas, Black- collared Hawks, Snail Kites and numerous waterfowl. However, after a few hundred metres we flushed a Dwarf Cuckoo, which conveniently flew along the path and perched up for us. Although not endemic it can be very difficult to see outside Colombia and I knew was likely, as it subsequently proved, to be the only one of the trip. So a much smarter bird than a dodgy Cowbird proved to be bird of the morning. The other highlight was a distant pair of Northern Screamers, which obligingly decided to fly right past us and land out in the open. It was now pretty hot and we were aiming to get back for an afternoon s birding above Minca so headed back via blue bus land. Northern Screamer Dwarf Cuckoo After lunch we drove a couple of km up the road to start searching for some of the specials of the lower Santa Marta range. Quickly Gabo had found us Pale- eyed Pygmy Tyrant, Santa Marta Foliage Gleaner, Rufous- and- White and Rufous- breasted Wrens. There was no response at all to tapes of one of my main targets Rosy Thrush- Tanager. Gabo felt that it was highly unlikely we were going to get this species in view of the dry conditions. He also said that unfortunately he was going to have to leave early, as he had to get ready to leave for Spain the next day. He suggested we headed back to the hotel but there was still plenty of daylight and decent bird activity left. So we decided to bid our fair- wells now and walk back later. In the last hour of daylight we managed to find a few birds including Cocoa Woodcreeper but nothing particularly exciting. I picked up a Golden- faced Tyrannulet in one bird group but knowing that this had recently been split as Coopman s gave the tape a quick play. The bird responded at once but to be quite honest it really did look just like any other Golden- faced Tyrannulet. We then ambled back down the hill. Most interesting was watching A Red- crowned Woodpecker incongruously reversing into its roost- hole in a roadside fence post. Arriving at the hotel after dark we met up with Roger who was guiding us for the rest of our stay on Santa Marta.

13 14/1/16. We set of with Roger early the next morning working our way up to El Dorado aiming to get to the lodge for lunch. Quickly we found Santa Marta Antbird, Brush- Finch, Bang s Wood- Wren, Sierra Nevada Brush- Finch and with bit of effort got great views of Santa Marta Tapaculo showing off its white forehead patch in a small gully. Unfortunately again there was no response to Rosy Thrush- tanager. Roger also felt that the dry weather meant that a lot of birds were just not vocalising or responsive. Santa Marta Antbird Santa Marta Brush- Finch We steadily headed up the mountain stopping at intervals at areas Roger thought would be good. I knew the mid elevations were supposed to be good for Rusty- breasted Antpitta but we failed to get any response to tape. Roger pointed out where he had seen one two days earlier. We did manage this time to get a response. It refused to show from the track though so we had to go in. It almost landed on top of my foot as it came in but still proved difficult to get good views of. Eventually it perched on a low branch and with relief we were able to move on. A stop at some flowering bushes outside a small shop enabled us to not only get a drink but a chance to wait for a Blossomcrown to come in and show itself to us. Duly one did the business, although it had to sneak in to avoid the local bully- boy Crowned Woodnymph. There was no sign of any Coppery Emeralds though so we carried on picking up a couple of Golden- breasted Fruiteaters a little bit below the lodge. Arriving at the lodge we were greeted by fruit cocktails served by a waiter in white gloves. Not quite what I was expecting! Lunch was ready but it had to wait while we looked at the feeders with numerous Blue- naped Chlorophonias, Black- capped Tanagers and Band Tailed Guans. Best of all was a male Black- backed Thornbill perched in a tree above the feeders. This can be the toughest of the Santa Marta endems to see but for a few weeks in January/early Feb birds do visit the feeders. This male was to give great views over the next couple of days. Lunch was very good, possibly the best anywhere so far and was followed by more great birds around the feeders including a stunning male White- tailed Starfrontlet which has to be once of the best of this great genus of spectacular hummers.

14 White- tailed Starfrontlet Black- backed Thornbill It was soon time to take our stuff up to the rooms. As there was a large birding group arriving the same day us we had been given the luxury rooms up the hill. A ten- minute hike to them at first struck me as a bit of a pain but the wow factor on seeing them changed my mind. The rooms were luxurious, clearly designed for visiting tourists rather than budget birders and had the most amazing view out over the Caribbean towards Barranquilla. George suggested we spend a few hours at a lower elevation in a private garden looking for Santa Marta Woodstar and a few other species. Arriving at the garden we could see at once how it could pull in the hummers as it was full of spectacular flowering shrubs. A Blossomcrown put in a couple of brief appearances and after about half an hour I picked up a perched female Woodstar. We unfortunately failed to find any Coppery Emeralds, nor anything else of note apart from some nesting Cinnamon Flycatchers, which do look different to those elsewhere in the Andes. So we headed back up to the lodge and watched the birds at the feeders. Soon after dark the tour group arrived having spent the last hour at the same garden. They, however, had scored with Black- fronted Wood Quail, Black- headed Tanager, Yellow- billed Toucanet and Coppery Emerald; gutting. A bit of owling after dinner proved totally unsuccessful with only one Santa Marta Screech Owl showing a vague interest in the tape but it was certainly not prepared to show itself to us. The next morning was going to be an important one as it was our only chance to get high up on the ridge where a sack full of endemics awaited us. With the tour group of 12 also doing the same site it was going to be a bit of a scrum. We needed to be there for first light to get the Santa Marta Parakeets as they came to their traditional post- roost tree before leaving for the rest of the day. I could not

15 wait. We had some concerns about the number of people but I felt at least it gave us more eyes to get probably the toughest bird i.e. Santa Marta Bush- tyrant. 15/1/16 A 4am start for probably the worst road I have ever been driven on. We got on the track before the others as I had hoped we would just in case an Antpitta showed itself. The road was really just a load of rocks and boulders up which we crept at maybe 5 miles per hour rocking and rolling around in the back of our 4X4. No chance of dozing off here! After two hours covering the short distance to the vantage point we pulled ourselves out of the cars grateful we were doing this only once. The prospect of repeating it just for a couple of hours birding the next morning did not appeal and we were determined to get everything we could in this one go. The other four jeeps were only a few minutes behind us and soon we had a noisy crowd of American and Canadian birders plus their drivers and us tucking into breakfast before the sun rose. It was not long though before two groups of Santa Marta Parakeets flew into a close eucalypt. Santa Marta Bush- Tyrant Santa Marta Mountain- Tanager Santa Marta Parakeet White- tipped Quetzal Badly backlit they were not exactly great views but at least we had seen them so we could now get birding. New calls were coming from everywhere and we walked up the track away from the others. Immediately a Russet- headed Spinetail called from right next to us but would not show; unfortunate as we failed to see one all day. Santa Marta Warblers and Streak- crowned Spinetails quickly showed and some taping brought in a Brown- rumped Tapaculo to investigate our blue- tooth speaker. A call from back down the track alerted us to the presence of a confiding Santa Marta Bush- Tyrant, the birding group had

16 really helped us out with this one. As the sun came up a group of Santa Marta Mountain Tanagers showed off their yellow and blue outfits and a couple of Yellow- crowned Whitestarts showed themselves to us. Heading up higher we found a tame female White- tipped Quetzal and a group of feeding Santa Marta Parakeets. Playing a tape at a likely looking open area pulled in a silent Paramo Seedeater, a species I had managed to avoid previously. Things were going really well but there was not a sniff of an Antpitta. Unfortunately this really did not change all day. A couple of birds called and one came in really close but it was on a sheer vertical section with incredibly thick vegetation giving us virtually no chance of seeing it. Another bird late in the morning was in a better location but just would not come in. Similarly Rufous Antpittas barely called and did not respond in any case. The bone- dry conditions were not helping us. Slowly we made our way back down the mountain seeing very little but the heat did not lead to ideal birding conditions. Lunch back at the lodge was next on the agenda where we met up with the other birding group who had fared no better apart from seeing Wood Quail again. Watching the feeders after lunch gave us nothing new but great views of the male Black- backed Thornbill were nice. George disappeared off to check on a roosting Santa Marta Screech Owl, which transpired to still be at its usual spot. Views of just its arse from 30 ft. below were not particularly inspiring so Chris and I manoeuvred ourselves up the slope to be able to look at the bird on the horizontal which was far better. For some reason Ewan headed back up without seeing the rest of this great little ginger ball. Santa Marta Screech- Owl Santa Marta Woodstar The rest of the afternoon we birded around the lodge and also the garden a few hundred metres below it where the other group had done so well the day before. Ewan picked up a group of four Yellow- billed Toucanets but apart from a couple of Sooty- capped Hermits it proved pretty disappointing. A covey of Wood Quail called close by but just would not show. As darkness fell we headed back to the lodge for an excellent dinner. Typically the other birding group had watched four Wood Quail go to roost but searching for them by torchlight proved totally fruitless. It had been a pretty good day but we still needed Rusty- headed Spinetail and Santa Marta Antpitta so these were our target species for the morning.

17 16/01/16. A short, half hour drive had us at a known Antpitta territory and it was calling. Unfortunately it was far from interested in coming in and soon fell silent. Another bird performed no better. Luckily a pair of Rusty- headed Spinetails was far more obliging. Eventually we gave up and resigned ourselves to accept that were not going to get two endemics in the form of Santa Marta Antpitta and the must be split one day Santa Marta Rufous Antpitta. We had one more chance of Black- fronted Wood Quail, which had so far failed to appear at the feeders during our stay, so headed back to the lodge. There was no sign of any at the feeder so we checked the road just above and soon both Ewan and Chris glimpsed a bird. Frustratingly I failed to get onto anything and we were leaving soon at 10am to get down to the airport so it seemed I had missed my chance. As the birds seemed to be heading towards the compost heap we decided to get down there but unsurprisingly there was no sign. At 9:55 Roger shouted he had them at the feeder and with great relief we were able to get great views of this near endemic. Ten minutes later they had left and so did we. Black- fronted Wood- Quail A stop at Hotel Minca for lunch broke the journey but we saw few birds on the journey down. Checking in at the airport was straightforward but unfortunately the flight ended up being delayed so we were going to miss our connecting flight to Pereira. Ewan soon sorted this out and got us onto the next one about an hour later. I let Pablo know so he could inform our driver Juan Julio. When we finally arrived at the airport he met us and after collecting Hernan, our new guide, we headed off to Otun Quimbaya. Immediately Hernan asked for our list of target species and I knew we were in safe hands. An hour or so we were there and quickly sorted out rooms and crashed.

18 17/1/16 After a breakfast we drove up the track from the headquarters stopping to tape out both a Chestnut- breasted Wren and then a Stiles Tapaculo which came in incredibly close in the open showing its absolutely massive feet. We then headed up the main trail picking up goodies such as Red- ruffed Fruitcrow (a much appreciated bird having heard but not seen one in Brazil over 10 years ago), Rufous- breasted Flycatcher and an immature Multicoloured Tanager. After that it went a bit quiet and we struggled to get much else. After a quick lunch we had an hour to spare before an obligatory session watching a public information film about the reserve. I wandered off up the track and managed to find a couple of Collared Trogons and a close group of the important Cauca Guans, which are a speciality of this site that we had inexplicably not found this morning. Cauca Guan After the presentation we headed back to the main track seeing more Guans and hitting one really good flock with a smart adult Multicoloured Tanager and were able to sort out the finer differences between Variegated and Marble- faced Bristle Tyrants. However there were no new species for me so the highlight was a Hoffman s Two- toed Sloth doing what most Sloths do: nothing. A short attempt at owling produced no response at all so Hernan suggest we have a go early in the morning. As this was going to be our only chance for Colombian Screech Owl I felt that a 4:30 start was a bit late and gave us too little time for a realistic chance. So I suggested to Chris and Ewan we started at 3:30. Ewan unfortunately was not up for it. 18/1/16 Anyway Chris and I headed off up the track at the allotted time. We could hear two birds calling. The first bird was not moving but the second seemed much closer to the track. Unfortunately it too would not come closer

19 than 30m and with the vegetation being so thick there seemed little chance of seeing it. I decided that the only option was to go in despite the fact that it meant crashing around like an Elephant through the dense forest and inevitably scaring it off. Amazingly it kept on calling despite my best efforts, until I virtually bumped into it. Backing off so I could both look at it and call Chris without flushing it, I managed to get a few photos that did not chop off its tail. Brilliant. Colombian Screech- Owl After getting our fill we headed back to the road from where we could hear it still calling away. I then headed back to find Hernan as we did not want him hanging around for us while we were out birding. I think he was a bit gobsmacked we had already been out and got the bird but at least it took the pressure off him.

20 So once Ewan was up we left in the dark heading off to Santa Rosa de Cabal where we grabbed some coffee and empanadas in a local bakery before heading to a new stake out for the critically endangered Fuertes s or Indigo- Winged Parrot. Juan did his rally- driving best (he does not hang around although is a very safe driver) overtaking another group of Swedish birders. We set ourselves on a slope overlooking the forest and within five minutes of arriving Hernan called out as a pair of Parrots screeched towards us. They came by below us in perfect light and I nearly went for my camera as they gave great views against the trees. Sensibly I resisted the temptation to do this, as no doubt I would have ended up with neither photo nor views. Celebrations all round; the traditional site is currently insecure so this is the new option. A few minutes later they repeated the performance giving almost as good a set of views as before. We called the Swedish group down who had missed them so far and a few minutes later they came back although nothing like as close. I got one bird perched distantly but then they seemed to clear off. Deciding we would be unlikely to do better we headed further up the hill but saw very little else of note. Sierra Nevada del Ruiz was our next destination so it was back into the vehicle and more driving. The Volcano del Ruiz is still active and was gently smoking in the distance as we climbed towards it. The ash- covered snowcap belied its dangerous character, having killed over 23,000 people in the town of Armero in I remember hearing about it on the news back in the UK. Hopefully it was going to stay quiet for the next 24 hrs. Driving straight to the HQ we discovered that the main part of the park was shut because of the eruption risk. Luckily we needed to climb no higher as the HQ area is the best spot for our number one target, Buffy Helmetcrest. Within minutes one appeared and fed from some flowers at our feet. Buffy Helmetcrest Once again I was frustrated by having a fixed length 300m lens, as it was just too close to take pictures. Over the next hour or so it repeatedly came into feed on

21 the Frajilones and some other pink flowers. It was a stunning little bird that you just have to see if you come to Colombia. Birding around the area produced a few common paramo species such as Brown- backed Chat Tyrant, Andean Tit- Spinetail, Many- striped Canestero and Stout- billed Cincloides. We then headed down to the recently re- opened Hotel Thermales stopping en route at some pastures, which Juan said, sometimes held the rare Rufous- fronted Parakeet. Stepping out of the car a party of eleven flew down the hill and one landed in the grass right next to us while the rest fed in a roadside tree! Hernan could not believe our luck (but hey we deserved some at last). After some nonsense when the hotel gave us a tiny room despite being totally empty, we were finally allocated a very spacious one and set off birding. Well actually we just wandered up to the feeders, which were heaving with Hummers. There was only one target for me. Buff- winged Starfrontlet did the genus proud and competed with Great Sapphirewings, Black- thighed and Golden- breasted Pufflegs, Viridian Metaltail and our only Shining Sunbeam of the trip. Despite access to unlimited supplies of hot water from the volcano the hotel was really cold. Some simple pipes could have transformed the hotel to a luxurious oasis of heat high up on the mountain. At least when we sat down to supper we knew that later we could relax in the hot pool and watch the stars through the clear Andean air. No chance! Of all nights they had chosen this one to empty and clean the pool. Although the cleaning did not take long it was never going to be full again until the next morning. Chris and I were gutted and had to make do with the small indoor pool, which was great but not quite the same! The next morning was our one chance for the scarce Crescent- faced Antpitta, a major target for Chris and I, although a long shot. Having got the Parakeet and Helmetcrest so easily we had time to give it a good go the next morning. Hernan did not really rate our chances but they occur so you never know. 19/01/16 Birding the road below the hotel was frustrating. I got brief views of a hummer which I am pretty sure was an Avocetbill but it was just to brief to be sure. The habitat looked really good but we got no response to our tape of Crescent- faced Antpitta. However a Bicoloured Antpitta did start calling and came in giving great close views. We knew they were far from guaranteed at Rio Blanco and it was good to get such a great bird under our belts. Back at the hotel the hummers were the same as yesterday so we headed back up the mountain to drive back to Manizales. A stop near where we had had the Parakeets the previous day produced a larger group feeding in the scattered trees.

22 Rufous- fronted Parrotlet Walking through the open pasture I flushed a Paramo Tapaculo, which perched up on the side of a trunk. Lower down in the forest zone we got great views of Rainbow- bearded Thornbill and a Black- backed Bush Tanager family. We went in after a calling Rufous Antpitta but failed to get close. However a Tawny Antpitta did come in and perch right above our heads. That was it for birding and we headed to Manizales and the Hotel Ventura in the middle of town. 20/01/16 It was a short 20 minute drive to Rio Blanco which is the Antpitta capital of Colombia. The warden Albeiro has habituated several species and the endemic Brown- banded was the one I was really after. It is also a great birding site in its own right with goodies such as Powerful Woodpecker and the stunning Hooded Saltator. We were due to meet to go to the first feeding station at 07:30 so beforehand Hernan took us off to try for the endemic Chestnut Wood Quail. Although we got a group to call back we could not get close enough to see them. By now it was time to meet up so we headed up with Albeiro and two others, the photographer Glenn Bartley and his partner. A bucket full of worms and grubs looked tasty. We just hoped the Antpittas appreciated it. Walking to the first feeding station Albeiro pointed out a calling Hooded Saltator. A pair of these performed really well as did a Black- billed Mountain Toucan. Then it was down to the first station where we settled down. Immediately a pair of Black- and- Green Fruiteaters came in. I had not thought of them as being interested in worms. Soon a couple of Chestnut- crowned Antpittas came in to grubs that Albeiro lobbed to them. A nudge at my shoulder from Hernan indicated for me to look to the side and there was a Brown- banded Antpitta. It was coming to take food from Albeiro s hand. I had to back off in order to focus and could only just fit it in the frame. After a while all the birds seemed to lose interest, no doubt stuffed with the beetle larvae and it was time for the next location and Slate-

23 crowned Antpitta. This took some time but after fifteen minutes or so a pair of these dinky little birds appeared for point blank views. Moving on once again we headed off to the last location for Bicoloured Antpitta. One of these duly obliged but was far less confident than the other three species. Slate- crowned Antpitta Chestnut- Crowned Antpitta

24 Bicoloured Antpitta Brown- banded Antpitta Antpitta feeding over, (Chestnut- naped was not obliging at the time but luckily we had seen it in Ecuador two years ago) so we could now go birding. Highlights were another four Hooded Saltators, even closer than before but a narrow dip on a calling Andean Pygmy Owl was galling, particularly after seeing Glenn s pics just after it flew off. Another attempt for Chestnut Wood Quail proved much more successful with views of a female even if it was somewhat obscured.

25 Lunch at the Lodge was followed by good views of Golden- plumed Parakeets in a nearby tree before we headed back up to the forest. Unfortunately it was pretty quiet although we did manage to pick up both Bar- bellied and Powerful Woodpeckers. Few things were responding to tape. Powerful Woodpecker Chestnut Wood- Quail The plan was to have our evening meal at the lodge before doing some owling and then to go back to the hotel in Manizales. Hernan had to go to lead another tour group so left before supper. We were to meet up with him later in the tour. In the meantime an American group and a couple of English birders had turned up. That meant at least 14 people at the Antpitta feeders tomorrow. Thank goodness we had visited today! After dark everyone walked just a short distance up from the lodge and their guide taped in a White- throated Screech Owl. It clearly did not like the light and was very shy. I suspect it had been taped many times before. It was all very unsatisfactory and I lost enthusiasm to look for Rufous- banded Owl in such a loud, noisy group. We then headed back to our Manizales hotel and crashed out. 21/1/16 Leaving well before dawn it was a three and a half hour drive to meet up with our next guide Juan David at a restaurant in the village of Penalisa near Bolombolo. The dry and narrow Cauca valley has three specials, Greyish Piculet, the recently described Antioquia Wren and the slightly more widespread Apical Flycatcher. A few birds were coming to the bananas at the restaurant but by the time we had eaten and transferred to Juan s vehicle it was getting warm. Birding the road looking for these three species proved tough. Eventually we got an Apical Flycatcher but the other two were another matter. At a damp gulley that actually had some green vegetation amongst the dry, brown hillsides I gave the Wren another blast and finally got a response. We tried a couple of other likely spots along the river and found two more Wrens and another Apical Fly but had to give up on the Piculet and make our way up to Jardin. At Jardin we checked in to the Hotel Casona and ambled across the pleasant square to get some lunch. Even at this altitude it was hot, Juan had never known it like this and it did not bode well for afternoon birding. But we gave it a go anyway. Juan knew of a good location for Red- bellied Grackle in an area of plantations with limited natural vegetation. It did not look great but the birds were there. Another endemic down.

26 Red- bellied Grackle Late afternoon we walked out of town to the local Andean Cock of the Rock lek. It is supposed to be one of the best for viewing in the world and indeed it proved to be excellent, at least twenty males were present, some very close, giving great views and photographic opportunities. I have no idea why there should be so many here as the surrounding areas is farmland without any decent forest for several miles. Andean Cock- of- the Rock

27 22/1/16 An early start to head up the mountain above Jardin. A stop part way up got us great views of Rufous- banded Owl in the dark but we needed to be at the top for the Yellow- eared Parrots as they left their roosts. Rufous- banded Owl We parked at a farm and walked to the viewpoint. There were lots of nest boxes but no parrots anywhere near them. While waiting the lady from the farm brought us some coffee. Noisy groups of Parrots flew over but were far more distant than we had expected. Eventually some landed on the ridge and we were able to get views in the scope that Juan had set up. Binocular views alone would have been disappointing. We were then taken off by the lady to try and see a habituated Rufous Antpitta. Unfortunately Conchita was not going to perform today but Juan did tape in couple of White- browed Spinetails in the thick bamboo, which were much appreciated. Breakfast at the farm was followed by another attempt at Conchita and this time she obliged, coming in looking like a chestnut ping- pong ball on stilts. We then headed down the slope stopping at various points. Some good mixed flocks held species such as Black- capped Hemispingus and Plushcap but we struggled to pick up anything unusual. I did eventually manage to locate a Chestnut- crested Cotinga on a distant snag, which we were able to show to another birding group.

28 Rufous Antpitta We had to eventually leave and head off to Las Tangaras but stopped en route to try again for Greyish Piculet. Unfortunately once again we failed in the heat of midday and so set off on the long drive to Las Tangaras arriving an hour or so before dark. 23/1/16. It was a 40 min or so drive from the lodge to the reserve where we walked the road, quickly picking up one of my most wanted targets, the brilliant Black- and- Gold Tanager. Loads of other goodies followed such as Indigo Flowerpiercer, Purplish- mantled Tanager and Beautiful Jay. Purplish- mantled Tanager Black- and- Gold Tanager We then headed up the trail to the ridge to look for the other main target Gold- ringed Tanager. Highlights on the way up were White- headed Wrens in the bromeliad- laden treetops, Uniform Tree Hunter and Pacific Tuftedcheek. Once we got up to the ridge we stated starting looking for the Tanager and after some time a high- pitched note had us searching the tops in earnest. Juan picked up a bird and amazingly got it into the scope almost immediately. It did not stay for

29 long and disappeared into a fruiting tree. Despite a lot of effort and false alarms with a male Orange- breasted Fruiteater, we took ages to find it again and then only briefly before it finally vanished. Elated to have got both Bangsia species on our first attempt we headed down to the forest trail. A bit of light drizzle reduced visibility but significantly increased bird activity. Ewan headed down to one of the shelters but Chris and I stayed out and taped in an Alto Pisones Tapaculo. We did not try at all for Narino or Choco having seen them both in Ecuador. Ewan then reappeared to say that Juan had found a Lanceolated Monklet. We managed to relocate it fairly quickly although the light drizzle precluded any decent photos. The drizzle did not last long but definitely produced a surge in activity. Our sumptuous packed lunch that the warden brought up to us was much appreciated. We failed to find much afterwards but our driver pointed out a female Lyre- tailed Nightjar roosting over the road. We spent an hour so at the hummingbird feeders, which were really good for Choco specialities. As we drove out before dusk I suggested we stop at a stream to have a try for Olive Finch. A pair responded immediately although the views were not too inspiring in the gloom. 24/1/16 Arriving back on the road at the top of the reserve at dawn again we had a short list of species to look for including the supposedly easy Yellow- vented Woodpecker and the other far tougher Bicoloured Antvireo. As soon as it got light enough I played the Woodpecker and instantly a bird called from above us and came into a bare tree. A couple of pairs of Olive Finches came out onto the track in response to a bit of pishing but try as we could there was no sign of the Antvireo. We saw a lot of the same birds as yesterday but no more of our target birds. We checked all the streams for Crested Ant- Tanagers to no avail. They were supposed to be easy! I bumped into a female Chestnut Wood Quail, which assumed I could not see it hiding in a gulley. Further down the road the Lyre- tailed Nightjar was back on the same branch and we carried on past it below where we had gone yesterday. It was warming up now and a big kettle of White- collared Swifts was swirling above us. A couple of raptors were gliding towards us joining the thermal, both proved to be immature Broad- winged Hawks. I then picked up a small accipiter following the same line and realised that I was looking at a Semi- collared Hawk. I called to the other two, I knew Chris needed it (unfortunately Ewan was out of ear shot) and he and Juan got onto it as it circled above us. Brilliant. Ewan joined us and Juan called what s this? as a far larger raptor came in and joined the thermal. We struggled to id it but on reviewing photos it was black phase Hook- billed Kite. After a few minutes it drifted off. David then called that there was another eagle over the ridge. This was distant but he was convinced it was an Ornate Hawk- Eagle. I needed this but it was a long way off and it only came slightly closer before disappearing behind the ridge. Almost immediately a bird started calling from the valley below. Juan responded with his tape and a few minutes later we were able to watch as a superb Ornate Hawk- Eagle spiralled up from below us to work its way towards the ridge and follow the other one. What a great ten minutes!

30 Ornate Hawk- Eagle Semi- collared Hawk How could we better this? Quite simply we couldn t. The rest of the afternoon was hot and dead. We searched the streams and gullies for Ant- Tanagers but it was pointless. We knew that there was a pair that roosted at the lodge and fed around the lights every morning so Juan was confident we would get them there. So we headed back to give ourselves a chance of getting them. Juan then left to head back home as Pablo was taking over from the next morning. Typically there was no sign of any birds coming to roost so our last chance of this normally easy endemic would be first thing the next morning. We were not holding our breath. 25/1/16 The original plan had been to leave before first light for the Tanager Finch reserve and then Urrao but after explaining the situation to Pablo we worked the lodge area at dawn. Nothing. He suggested we check the streams again in the reserve but eventually we had to admit defeat. This was a really disappointing dip. We finally reached the Tanager Finch reserve much later than we had originally planned but our main target the endemic Munchique Wood Wren performed immediately. Unlike most of the Wood Wrens so far these were really obliging posing at close range out in the open for prolonged periods. Munchique Wood- Wren

31 It was then a long drive to Urrao for lunch and from there, a little way to our starting point for the hike to Colibri del Sol. We had three horses for our gear and the five of us. We jettisoned unneeded items, loaded up one horse and set off. Chris and Ewan rode while Pablo, the warden and I walked. This was supposed to be a site where mud was often a major problem; this year it was bone dry and dusty! The walk was an hour and forty- five minutes and pretty easy. Unfortunately there were no birds at all to be seen. The lodge feeders, however, were buzzing with hummers. It was soon dark and after a decent meal cooked by the warden s wife we retired to our beds. 26/1/16 There are four endemics at Colibri del Sol; Paramillo Tapaculo, Chestnut- bellied Flowerpiercer, Dusky Starfrontlet and the recently described Urrao Antpitta. This latter has been habituated so after an early breakfast we headed off to the feeding station for this critically endangered species. We sat on the bench as the warden carefully paced the worms in a hole and called to the Antpittas. Soon one came hopping in incredibly close and for the next half an hour we were able to get great views of this rather subdued but mega- rare bird. Urrao Antpitta It was then back to the lodge to get on our horses for the hour or so s climb to the area for the other three target species. Never having really ridden before it was a bit of a bizarre experience but we survived it. Dismounting we had only walked up a little way when a Paramillo Tapaculo started calling right next to the track. It responded initially and a movement was glimpsed at the bottom of a bush but then there was silence. A Mountain Wren popped up and flew out of the bush but there was no further sign of the Tapaculo. Giving up we climbed up to the first set of feeders set in the forest. A brief view of a female Dusky Starfrontlet

32 was promising but the higher feeders were supposed to be better so we headed on up. These feeders were on the edge of the Paramo and had Sword- billed Hummingbird attending them as well as a female Dusky Starfrontlet. A male came in occasionally and on one occasion displayed to the female. Unfortunately he rarely stayed long and it was tough to get decent pics of him. There were plenty of Flowerpiercers though, mainly Black- throated but several slightly larger Chestnut- bellied amongst them. Chris and I headed up higher into the Paramo for the Tapaculo but unfortunately failed to see or hear any. We spent the rest of the day birding around the feeders and the forest below and although we saw a few good birds such as Golden- crowned Tanagers it was slow going in the hot, dry conditions. Ewan decided to head back down while Chris, Pablo and I had one last attempt. A Citrine Warbler of the race richardsonii was interesting but we drew a blank on the Tapaculo. We did manage to hear two other birds but they were totally unresponsive and eventually we too headed back down. Ewan had got there some time before us and had managed to see a Tawny- breasted Tinamou on the way down which was more than a bit gripping, but that s what happens when you split up. Dusky Starfrontlet Chestnut- bellied Flowerpiercer 27/1/16 After breakfast it was an early start to walk out. The first section was though forest and we bumped into three Urrao Antpittas on the track. A calling Streak- headed Antbird came into tape and we also got views of an immature Plain- breasted Hawk lower down. Back at the waiting car we loaded up and headed back down into the Cauca valley. After lunch at the same restaurant as previously, we had one last chance for Greyish Piculet. Pablo took us up a different un- tarmacked road but it was now the heat of the day. However, on getting out of the car I played the tape and saw a bird fly up the hill and perch up in the open. At last! It sat there panting in the heat enabling us all to get decent views before flying off. It did at least make up for some of the disappointment of missing the Tapaculo yesterday. We now had a long drive via Medellin to the Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve. We stopped on the outskirts of Medellin at La Romera mainly to look for the difficult Yellow- headed Manakin. It is supposed to be a good site for Red- bellied Grackle but when we could not even find one of these the chances of the Manakin seemed pretty slim. After an hour or so it was looking grim but as I was staring down the slope a bright golden headed bird popped up onto a low stump. I got my bins onto it and it jumped off. I called it out immediately but too late for Ewan who was standing right next to me. Unfortunately that was all were ever able to get

33 on it and eventually had to leave as it was a long drive to the reserve and we still had to fight through the Medellin traffic. It was indeed a long slow drive made a bit more remarkable by one of the most polluted rivers I have ever seen the world. It was just a long river of bubbles and foam as though it was made of pure washing up liquid; gross. Well after dark we arrived at the lodge. Stepping out of the car there was a Tropical Screech Owl calling from just outside the entrance gate so I wandered over and took a couple of pics of it before we checked in. We then crashed as we had another suite of endemics to get the next morning. 28/1/16 At breakfast there was a Pavonine Cuckoo calling in the dark from near the road. Tracking it down proved impossible and we had to give up when it moved off into the distance. We were more successful with a group of three Parker s Antbirds. Heading onto the forest trails it was real struggle to find birds. No doubt the dry conditions were not helping. A couple of White- crowned Tapaculos showed well without the use of tape. After an age we found a decent sized canopy flock amongst which I picked out a Rufous- browed Tyrannulet. There was nothing else unusual in the flock and working our way up to the ridge we saw very few birds at all. The ridge area is the best place for the eponymous Piha but after an hour or so it was not looking good. Our excellent cooked lunch then appeared courtesy of the warden. It has to be said that Pro Aves do really provide a great service at their lodges. For some reason Ewan then decided to go back down while Chris and I remained, as this was the only chance of this critically endangered Cotinga. Finally one did appear and we got decent views as it perched above us. Chestnut- capped Piha We then headed back as we knew that Colombian Chachalacas normally came into the lodge to the banana feeders around 5pm. We did much better on the

34 way out. Chris got good views of a Multicoloured Tanager, which I only glimpsed. We then picked up pairs of both Moustached Puffbird and the endemic White- mantled Barbet and had good numbers of other birds coming into a fruiting tree. White- mantled Barbet At the lodge we were greeted by thick fog. On cue at five the Chachalacas appeared but the fog did detract somewhat from the views. The Pavonine Cuckoo was calling again but invisible in the fog. A Sooty- headed Wren at the lodge entrance performed much better and came close enough for us to get its features through the mist. A search for nightbirds on the road was totally unsuccessful. Apparently the local Stygian Owl had not been seen for several months. 29/1/16 I decided to get up early to search for owls but the others passed on the fun! I walked a km down the road but got no response at all from Mottled Owl. However a loud wail in response to the Stygian tape got me hoping. It would not come in close enough so I decided to carry on and try on the way back. Twenty minutes later I was back and had spotlighted a Colombian Chachalaca high in a tree. This time the Stygian Owl was closer and after a couple of fly- overs, one of which sent the Chachalaca flying off in a panic, I managed to get distant perched views. It then came a bit closer and I even managed some record shots of it, although spotlighting and photographing distant owls at the same time is never the easiest of things to do. Elated to have finally got this long winged, dark Stygio that had eluded me on so many trips before, I went back to the lodge for breakfast. There was no doubt that the best time to get owls on this trip had been the early mornings.

35 Stygian Owl The Pavonine Cuckoo proved elusive again and a bit of birding in the forest produced little of note. We left mid early morning and stopped at a couple of places lower down where Pablo had in the past seen Crested Ant- Tanager. We did get a pair of Black- headed Brush- Finches to show themselves and then bumped into some Sooty Ant- Tanagers. I got un- tickable, naked eye, flight views though which was a little frustrating. We then headed further down towards Medellin as we had a flight to catch. The plan was to stop on the way for two special birds in the Porce River Canyon. The first species, Yellow- browed Shrike- Tanager, is a near endemic but usually not too tough to see, while the other species, Tody Motmot, is much more widespread. It is right at the edge of the range here and far more difficult. However it is a very distinctive and cute looking Motmot so we were really keen to see it. On our second stop I heard the Shrike- Tanager calling from a little further down the road and very quickly we had located this first target calling from a treetop. The Motmot was of course another matter. We went in on a short trail and soon got a response to the tape but the bird then went silent. Eventually we gave up and tried a bit further down the road. Pablo thought he heard one and then Ewan spotted it flying across the road but it remained silent. Pablo somehow managed to get onto it in some thick vegetation so we were all able to get views of this great little bird. Things were definitely looking up but we had a flight to catch and Medellin to negotiate. Time was tight and a huge queue at some road works meant we were cutting it fine. However, Norelli, our driver took on the challenge like any good Colombian racing driver would and managed to get us there on time. Pablo did have a few words with him about a near scrape we had though.

36 Our flight to Bucaramanga was on time and we were met by Juan again and driven through a surprisingly arid landscape before we reached our hotel on the picturesque square of the town of Govan. 30/01/16 Up early as usual for a short drive to a site that Pablo had up his sleeve for the much wanted Recurve- billed Bushbird. It had clearly been raining overnight, could this bode well for increased bird activity? On reaching the site on the outskirts of town there was already a bird calling up a steep hillside. It looked a tough place to get to with a small stream to cross and thick vines but Pablo was really pleased as he pointed out the trail that went straight to where the bird was calling from. On getting to the spot the bird was still vocal but we took some time to see it. After a few minutes Pablo announced he had got a bird. And there was a bright rufous female right out in the open just in front of him. What an amazing bill, an extremely narrow but deep chisel. After a while it demonstrated how it used this weapon to strip bark off a vine stem. It slid it under the bark and used it to lift off the top layer. The male was calling a bit further down the track so Chris and I slowly snuck down towards it. Incredibly it was only a few feet away and proceeded to give mind blowing views often too close to fit in my camera s frame. Recurve- billed Bushbird We had now got some extra time so Pablo suggested we tried a highland area outside town that would give us a chance for Mountain Grackle. It was a long shot but we decided to give it a go. We spent several hours birding a track though patches of forest but failed to find our target. We did find a nice male Blue- throated Starfrontlet, Striped Treehunter, a pair of Slaty Finches and Moustached Brush- Finch. On the drive to the Cerulean Reserve we made several stops for more widespread species that were not likely to be seen at the reserve. We picked up Jet Antbird, Slate- coloured Seedeater, Black- bellied Wren, Ruddy- tailed Flycatcher and White- bibbed Manakin amongst many others.

37 We finally arrived well after dark and had supper. Once again the Pro- Aves accommodation and food was excellent. This was definitely a trip for softies. 31/01/16 We had a 45- minute walk up the hill to get to the feeders at dawn leaving at 5:20. This would be our only chance of the endemic Gorgeted Wood Quail. They can come into the feeder at any time of day but dawn is the only reliable time and we could not spend all day waiting. Arriving at the screen looking down the slope to the feeder we could make out several birds scurrying around the hopper. Unfortunately a combination of steamed up glasses, lack of time to allow my eyes to acclimatise to the gloom and sheer incompetence meant we failed to pick out the single Wood Quail amongst several Lined Quail Doves. I tried to focus on the bird with the whitest head but this proved to be the dominant Quail- Dove and by the time we had worked out what we were looking at the Wood Quail had gone. Pablo was a bit gutted as he had seen it but was hopeful it would reappear. A single Quail- Dove was dominating the feeder and chasing off anything that came near. Over the next couple of hours it seemed to become steadily more and more obese until the next bird in the pecking order replaced it. We managed to see a Black Inca at the sugar feeders. But there was no sign of a Wood Quail so we gave up and decided to do some birding in the forest, as there was the endemic Magdalena Tapaculo to see amongst others. Soon, however, we nearly bumped into a calling group of Wood Quail but typically failed to see them. The forest was pretty quiet but we did finally find a calling Tapaculo. It came into the tape but unfortunately neither Chris nor I managed to get onto it and it never showed again. A Whiskered Wren gave some really poor views before we gave up and headed back down for lunch. Birding around the lodge produced lots of endemic Indo- capped Hummingbirds and after some effort I spotted a Turquoise Dacnis fly into a Cecropia tree. Indigo- capped Hummingbird We then headed down below the lodge to bird the cacao and coffee plantations. These were heavily shaded by orange- flowering trees. There were plenty of

38 birds about but although we heard a couple we could not entice the very local Nicefero s Wren into view. A ten- minute rain shower was a novelty but did not interfere too much with birding as we had umbrellas. A spell watching the lower level hummingbird feeders for Chestnut- bellied Hummingbird was totally unsuccessful. This was the third trip so far this year that Pablo had dipped this endemic. 01/02/16 We had a long drive to El Paujil today but Pablo reckoned we had enough time for another go at Gorgeted Wood Quail. Ewan was not up for it but Chris and I set off at 5am and got there in the pitch dark at 5:45. This time we were settled and ready when the first birds appeared at 6:20. At 6:45 I picked up the round shape of a male Gorgeted Wood Quail. The light was poor but as it improved we were able to pick up the salient features before it disappeared. Flushed with success we thought we would have a last ditch attempt for Magdalena Tapaculo. This time the forest was even quieter and we had to give up and head back. A quick check behind the lodge produced great views of the critically endangered endemic Nicefero s Wren. Nicefero s Wren One performed brilliantly, looking and sounding very similar to the extremely closely related Rufous- and- White and Antioquia Wrens. Below the lodge we found a Beautiful Woodpecker although it was slightly distant. It was then a long drive to Puerto Boyaca. We took the back roads through shaded coffee and cacao plantations. We were hoping to pick up Double- banded Greytail but failed on this front. There were lots of migrant warblers about and we also got another pair of Beautiful Woodpeckers.

39 Beautiful Woodpecker We managed to get lost before finally getting down to the main road and then to Puerto Boyaca. Here Pablo left us and we picked up Hernan once again who was going to be with us for the rest of the trip. From there it was a couple of hours to El Paujil arriving once again after dark. Yet again the food and accommodation was excellent with the usual unlimited coffee, water and fruit juice being particularly appreciated in this much warmer location. 02/02/16 Walking out of my room to join the others at breakfast I could hear a Mottled Owl just a few metres down the track. Two quick blasts of the tape brought the bird straight in landing silently just ten feet in front of me. I put the torch straight on it and watched it, without using my bins, for about ten seconds before it flew off. It was too light now to be able keep it in the beam for long. The plan was for us to head out on the trails after breakfast while Juan stayed behind. He was going to call us on the radio when the Curassows appeared, which apparently was usually around 6:30. Birding the trails close to the lodge we soon picked up Cinnamon Woodpecker and a few other bits and pieces until the radio crackled and we were racing back to the restaurant area. A pair of Blue- billed Curassows was feeding from a bucket put out for them. The female did not hang around long but the male was very obliging, although once again fitting the whole bird into the frame of my camera was a problem. Hernan had spent a year as an undergraduate studying them before Pro- Aves bought El Paujil. Back then the area was under the control of the local militia. In those twelve months he had had twenty- three sightings and now we had just pitched up and watched two at point blank range in less than two hours!

40 Blue- billed Curassow Our main target under our belt meant we were free to search for some of the other goodies that El Paujil hosts. We soon had seen Chestnut- backed and the near endemic Bare- crowned Antbird. The localised Black- billed Flycatcher showed well, as did an endemic Sooty- headed Ant- Tanager as well as Citron- throated Toucan and by wading into the very low river we got great views of Black Antshrike. Black Antshrike Sooty Ant- Tanager After lunch we crossed the river and picked up Stripe- throated and Long- billed Hermit as well as managing to contaminate Ewan s list of previously rare- only Tinamous with the more common Little Tinamou. I even managed to see an unexpected, perched Grey- breasted Dove that we had flushed, but it did not stay long enough for the others to get onto. It had been a great couple of sessions with the only real dip being the normally very responsive Russet- winged Schiffornis but it was now time to leave for Rio Claro. The drive out though grazing land full

41 of odd, low mounds produced Orange- winged and Yellow- crowned Parrots as well as Chestnut- fronted Macaws, Savannah Hawks and several Northern Screamers. The drive took three and a half hours and we arrived at Rio Claro after dark and checked in to our spacious accommodation. Once again we all had separate rooms. I found mine to be massive and luxurious but Ewan unfortunately was not quite so happy with his. A brief spell of owling produced great views of Choco Screech Owl next to our cabins. Choco Screech- Owl 03/02/16. Early morning had us birding long the river canyon where we bumped into a couple of endemic Magdalena Antbirds hopping about on the rocks in the half- light; that was easy! We then picked up a few bits and bobs such as Dusky- faced and Plain- Coloured Tanagers, some dull Bronze- tailed Plumeleteers, and Cinnamon and One- coloured Becards. After lunch we walked a trail up a side river looking for the endemic Antioquia Bristle- Tyrant. We duly found a pair although I failed to get decent pictures of them. Other interesting species were White- whiskered Puffbird, Checker- throated Antwren and Olivaceous Flatbill. However the real highlight was the Grey- cheeked Nunlet that Hernan picked up on the way back.

42 Grey- cheeked Nunlet Back at the rooms I was finally able to tick a calling Acadian Flycatcher. None of the Empidomax we had previously seen had been calling. We then drove a little way up the road so we could visit the Oilbird cave. We had seen them previously in Ecuador but nevertheless it was a worthwhile experience, in particular to hear their amazing calls sounding like demons from hell. Birding around the entrance to Rio Claro produced views of Barred Puffbird and the only Tamarin that we saw all trip. In the evening we hoped to get some fly over Parrots, Rio Claro is a good site for the rare Saffron- crowned Parrot but there was no sign of any. I did get a calling Yellow- throated Toucan at dusk. At the restaurant we got some great news when Hernan met up with some American friends who had just arrived. They had had a group of Saffron- headed Parrots feeding in fruiting tree just outside their room so we planned to look for them first thing the next morning. An attempt at owling was only partially successful when a Crested Owl perched high in a tree. Unfortunately only I got onto it but the views were not exactly brilliant. 04/02/16. The next morning we headed up the river and quickly located the fruiting tree. Hernan s friends very generously let us come up to their room to watch the birds come in to feed. Broad- billed Motmot, White- mantled Barbet and Collared Aracari all appeared and then five Saffron- headed Parrots flew in. Absolutely stunning birds with amazing white goggles it would have been a huge dip not to see these birds. We were so grateful to Hernan s friends for finding them for us and allowing use of their balcony.

43 Saffron- headed Parrot With such a great start we left early, as we had to get to Ibague in time to have a chance at a few new endemics there. We first stopped off a sort distance from Rio Claro to take some tourist snaps of the entrance to Pablo Escobar s old estate. According to Hernan the association of Colombia with the Cocaine cartels embarrasses most Colombians. Luckily that is largely a problem of the past. Chris at Pablo Escobar s old pad.

44 On the map it looked a long way to Ibague but as it was up the flat Magdalena valley and the road was a high quality dual carriageway we made rapid progress. We passed through the remains of the town of Almero devastated by the lahar flow from Nevada del Ruiz. A little way short of Ibague we turned off into a small village. All the vegetation was brown and parched; Hernan said he had never seen it looking like this before. But even as we were getting out of the car I heard the call of our target bird, a Velvet- fronted Euphonia. Very quickly we located a pair feeding in some mistletoe, which seemed to be the only green vegetation anywhere. Velvet- fronted Euphonia We also found our only Barred Antshrike of the trip and were soon able to leave having got back one endemic we had missed on our first day. We had not stayed long in the village but had incredibly failed to see a single person there in the middle of the day! They were not going out in this heat. Arriving in Ibague Hernan said he had a location, which we now had time to visit, where he had previously seen Crested Ant- Tanager. It was only a 50/50 chance but our last one so we gave it a go. It was basically a lightly forested gulley in an area of suburbia on a steep hillside. There was no sign of any there but when we got to the very top Hernan heard a Tolima Dove. This is an extremely tough endemic to get but amazingly Hernan managed to spot it in a thick tree. Incredibly it was then joined by another and started displaying to it! We could not believe our luck but it got even better on the way back. Another Dove was calling and it came in close to the tape but only for flight views. However this was not all. A few metres further on, as we got back to the stream again, Hernan somehow picked out the call of an Ant- Tanager above the roar of the water. There was a pair working their way up the far bank and the male even perched up to show off his bits to us. Three endemics and a near endemic today had far exceeded any possible expectations so the subsequent failure to see the Tolima Blossomcrown at its

45 usual bush in the Combeima Canyon in the last hour before dusk did not seem so bad. We laboriously checked in to the smart looking Hotel Igaima. It all looked good but the restaurant served only a couple of options and our room had no hot water. We discovered the next morning that the adjacent room did have hot water for the shower, which we then used. Why an earth they could have not put us in that room goodness only knows. 05/02/16.Next morning we spent the first few hours staking out the bush where Hernan normally sees the Blossomcrown and also some feeders near the hotel. However it was a complete no show although we did get views of the endemic Yellow- headed Brush- Finch, which was the other bird we had come for. Yellow- headed Brush- Finch. It was then off to the another site containing two species we needed, Cinereous Becard and Rosy Thrush- Tanager. The former is a widespread species I had somehow managed to miss previously and within a few minutes we had found an obliging male. There is supposed to be just one pair of Rosy Thrush- Tanagers at the site but it involved a bit of a scramble down a steep slope to get into position. One responded to a tape but would not come close. Hernan thought that a local photographer had been taping them recently and certainly there were lots of tracks where someone had gone in. Eventually we gave up and did some more birding round the forest. Some heavy rain proved problematical but we thought it might it liven things up a bit. Chris and I decided to give the Thrush- Tanager another go but this time we got into a better closer position and waited a bit before playing a tape. It came closer but boy was it wary. Now it was raining again and we were getting soaked. But suddenly it popped up to my right and sat up for two seconds before dropping down. Chris had not got onto it and although we got a couple of flight views it was clearly not going to perform again. The rain was now becoming torrential and I for one was drenched and decided to head

46 out. None too soon as within half an hour the skies produced some of the heaviest rain I have ever seen by which time we were tucked up in a chicken restaurant. After that it was a drive to Bogota aiming to arrive after the evening number plate cut off time. We ended up getting stuck though in the horrendous traffic as a result. Arriving at Hotel La Casona we were too tired for an evening meal and in any case had earlier stuffed ourselves on Ibague chicken. 06/02/16. This was our last day and we were heading to Sumapaz for a handful of endemics and near endemics, namely Rufous- browed Conebill, Bronze- tailed Thornbill, Apolinar s Wren, Silver- throated Spinetail and the spectacular Green- bearded Helmetcrest. Arriving at sunrise there was a light frost on the ground. The skies were clear and soon a Helmetcrest zapped past. It was un- tickable but a couple of Bronze- tailed Thornbills performed far better feeding from some roadside flowers. A Rufous- browed Conebill showed briefly but close and then I picked up a distant perched Helmetcrest. It came closer and eventually perched up incredibly close to Ewan. It kept coming back to the same spot and really was quite brilliant competing with Recurve- billed Bushbird for bird of the trip. Green- bearded Helmetcrest

47 Sated with point blank views of this stunner we continued up the road picking up Plain- capped Ground- Tyrant, Apolinar s Wren and at a damp area on the edge of dried up pool a Bogota rail right out in the open. A walk around the edge of the pool produced nothing, but from the bushes around the edge I flushed several Noble Snipe. They took of with a deep call and did not fly far. In all we must have flushed some fourteen birds and I even got views on the deck. Other birds we got were a pair of Chestnut- winged Cincloides, several Tawny Antpittas and our only Pied- billed Grebe of the trip, but Sumapaz is all about quality rather than quantity. Bogota Rail We then headed lower down to look for Silver- throated Spinetail in roadside scrub. Once again it was hot and dry and there was very little bird activity. Eventually a couple of Spinetails came in to the tape giving crappy views. So that was our last endemic. Chris however was not happy with the wing colour and on checking the field guide I had to agree that we had been looking at the far more common Azara s Spinetail so we had to start all over again. It took over an hour of searching until finally we had a pair. Far more dully coloured and pretty secretive, the last of 68 endemics had finally hit my list. Our flights were not until after 10pm but Hernan was keen to get to the airport so we could meet up with Pablo who was arriving far earlier, having finished with another tour group. I would have liked to carry on birding for longer but we had little choice and headed off early to the airport getting there at 15:45. We had a really good meal and thanked Hernan, Juan and Pablo for their really great work. It had been a faultlessly arranged trip and we had done brilliantly well, only hindered by the incredibly dry weather conditions that Pablo had never encountered before.

48 Species list Those in bold are new species seen by me. 1) Tawny- breasted Tinamou Nothocercus julius Heard above Jardin and at Calibre del Sol where Ewan actually saw and photographed one. 2) Highland Tinamou Nothocercus bonapartei. Heard at Las Tangaras. 3) Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Three seen at El Paujil. 4) Northern Screamer Chauna chavaria Two near Baranquilla, eight on the drive out of El Paujil and ten south of Puerto Boyaca. 5) Black- bellied Whistling- Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis 50+ near Baranquilla 6) Fulvous Whistling- Duck Dendrocygna bicolor 2 near Baranquilla 7) Blue- winged Teal Anas discors 20 Guasca, 50 La Florida and 500 near Baranquilla. 8) Andean Teal Anas andium 4 Guasca, 1 Nevada del Ruiz 9) Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis 2 La Florida, 4 Nevada del Ruiz, 20 Sumapaz. 10) Chestnut- winged Chachalaca Ortalis garrula. Five on the coal road at dawn outside Santa Marta city. 11) Rufous- vented Chachalaca Ortalis ruficauda. Two near Flamencos 12) Colombian Chachalaca Ortalis columbiana. Four in the Cauca valley near Penalisa, at least eight coming into bananas at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve plus birds seen near El Paujil and Cerulean Warbler reserve. Colombian Chachalaca

49 13) Band- tailed Guan Penelope argyrotis. Up to ten daily at El Dorado. 14) Andean Guan Penelope montagnii. One seen by the others at Colibri del Sol 15) Cauca Guan Penelope perspicax. Eight Otun Quimbaya 16) Wattled Guan Aburria aburri, Heard only at Chestnut- Capped Piha reserve. A brilliant sound. 17) Sickle- winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii. Up to four daily at El Dorado but also seen at Rio Blanco, Colibri del Sol and Las Tangaras 18) Blue- billed Curassow Crax alberti. A pair seen at close quarters coming to food at El Paujil. 19) Crested Bobwhite Colinus cristatus. One seen on the ground at Los Flamencos, a couple of other flushed. 20) Black- fronted Wood- Quail Odontophorus atrifrons. Heard daily at El Dorado, four finally seen at the last minute at the feeders there. 21) Chestnut Wood- Quail Odontophorus hyperythrus. One at Rio Blanco and I also saw one at Las Tangaras 22) Gorgeted Wood- Quail Odontophorus strophium. Chris and I got one at the forest feeder at the Cerulean Forest reserve on the second attempt. 23) Pied- billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps. One on the lake at Sumapaz 24) American Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber. Eight Los Flamencos. 25) Wood Stork Mycteria Americana. Two near Baranquilla. 26) Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens, Common on the Caribbean coast. 27) Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus common on wetlands 28) Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Two on the drive from Rio Claro to Ibague 29) Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis. Common on the Caribbean coast 30) Rufescent Tiger- Heron Tigrisoma lineatum One near Baranquilla. 31) Bare- throated Tiger- Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum. One in the mangroves at Salamanca. 32) Great Blue Heron Ardea Herodias. One near Baranquilla 33) Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoa. Five near Baranquilla 34) Great Egret Ardea alba Common in wetland areas 35) Snowy Egret Egretta thula. Common in wetland areas 36) Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea. Seen near Taironaka, Baranquilla and Rio Claro. 37) Tricoloured Heron Egretta tricolor. Eight near Baranquilla 38) Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens. Two Los Flamencos 39) Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Widespread and abundant. 40) Whistling Heron. Syrigma sibilatrix. One Los Flamencos. 41) Striated Heron Butorides striata. Singles near Baranquilla, Los Flamencos and Rio Claro 42) Black- crowned Night- Heron Nycticorax nycticorax. One Los Flamencos 43) Boat- billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius One near El Paujil 44) White Ibis Eudocimus albus Common at Los Flamencos 45) Scarlet Ibis Eudocimus ruber Common at Los Flamencos 46) Bare- faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus. Common around Bogota and sites near the Magdalena valley. 47) Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja. Five near Baranquilla, two Magdalena valley. 48) Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common. 49) Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common.

50 50) Lesser Yellow- headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Two in the Flamencos area and two at a wetland area near Puerto Boyaca. 51) King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa. Two El Paujil. 52) Osprey Pandion haliaetus One near Baranquilla and again near Puerto Boyaca. 53) White- tailed Kite Elanus leucurus One Urrao. 54) Hook- billed Kite Chondrohierax Uncinatus. One Las Tangaras. 55) Swallow- tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus. One from the car above the Porce river canyon. 56) Black Hawk- Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus. Singles Rio Blanco and Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 57) Ornate Hawk- Eagle Spizaetus ornatus. Two at Las Tangaras were a bonus for me. 58) Black- collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis. One near Baranquilla 59) Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis. Four near Baranquilla 60) Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea. One perched at Minca 61) Semi- collared Hawk Accipiter collaris, Great views of one at Las Tanagaras. 62) Plain- breasted Hawk Accipiter ventralis. One carrying prey at Laguna Pedro Palo and an immature below Colibri el Sol 63) Common Black HawkButeogallus anthracinus. One on the drive out of El Paujil. 64) Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis One near El Paujil 65) Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris. Common and widespread. 66) White- rumped Hawk Parabuteo leucorrhous One Rio Blanco 67) Black- chested Buzzard- Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus. Singles at Chingaza and Nevada del Ruiz and two at Sumapaz. 68) Broad- winged Hawk Buteo platypterus. Seen at multiple sites. 69) Grey- lined Hawk Buteo nitidus. One Jardin. 70) Short- tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus One Minca and one Colibri del Sol. 71) Zone- tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus One Los Flamencos area. 72) Bogota Rail Rallus semiplumbeus Three seen at Guasca and excellent views of one at Sumapaz. 73) Russet- crowned Crake Anurolimnas viridis heard from the lodge at Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 74) Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinicus One near Baranquilla. 75) Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Seen at La Florida and near Barnquilla 76) Spot- flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops. One at Guasca and two La Florida 77) American Coot Fulica americana A couple of hundred La Florida 78) Limpkin Aramus guarauna Several near Baranquilla 79) Double- striped Thick- knee Burhinus bistriatus Two near Los Flamencos. 80) Black- necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus. Just five near Baranquilla. 81) Hudsonian Whimbrel Numenius hudsonicus. One Los Flamencos. 82) Marbled Godwit Limosa fedoa. Five Los Flamencos. 83) Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis. Seen at multiple sites 84) Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Thirty or so near Baranquilla and also seen at marshes in Magdalena valley south of Rio Claro 85) Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius. Singles at Taironaka, in the Cuaca Valley and Las Tangaras. 86) Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Seen at Los Flamencos, near Baranquilla and in the Puerto Boyaca area.

51 87) Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca One Taironaka, and also Los Flamencos and Barranquilla area 88) Willet Tringa semipalmata Several Los Flamencos 89) Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes. Several Los Flamencos 90) Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres. One Los Flamencos 91) Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla. Large numbers of distant waders at Los Flamencos were probably this species. We had no scope and no time to search through them in detail. 92) Wilson s Snipe Gallinago delicate. Several flushed at Guasca 93) Noble Snipe Gallinago nobilis. About 14 seen at Sumapaz. None at Guasca. 94) Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla. Common at Los Flamencos. 95) Lesser Black- backed Gull Larus fuscus. One at Los Flamencos. 96) Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus. One at Los Flamencos. 97) Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Twenty Los Flamencos 98) Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus Common at Los Flamencos 99) Cabot s tern Thalasseus acuflavidus Common at Los Flamencos 100) Large- billed Tern Phaetusa simplex Three near Baranquilla. 101) Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Eight Los Flamencos, six Magdalena valley 102) Pale- vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis. Some near Puerta Boyaca

52 103) Bare- eyed Pigeon Patagioenas corensis. Six Los Flamencos area and three near Salamanca most of them in flight. 104) Band- tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata. Seen at Nevada del Ruiz, Rio Blanco, Jardin, Las Tangaras, Colibri del Sol, Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve and incredibly abundant on the drive to the Tanager- Finch reserve. 105) Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea. Seen at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 106) Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea Heard at Las Tangaras, Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves. 107) Common Ground- Dove Columbina passerine. Just one seen near Riohacha. 108) Ruddy Ground- Dove Columbina talpacoti Seen at multiple sites. 109) Scaled Dove Columbina squammata. Common Los Flamencos/ Riohacha area 110) Ruddy Quail- Dove Geotrygon Montana. One at Minca. 111) White- tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Seen at several sites 112) Grey- chested Dove Leptotila cassinii. I got onto a perched bird that we flushed at El Paujil. 113) Tolima Dove Leptotila conoveri. Three near Ibague, normally a very tough species to get. 114) White- throated Quail- Dove Zentrygon frenata One Rio Blanco 115) Lined Quail- Dove Zentrygon linearis One Rio Blanco, two at Otun and at least five at the feeders at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 116) Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata. Common around Bogota and seen Cauca valley. 117) Dwarf Cuckoo Coccycua pumila. One near Baranquilla

53 118) Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana. Birds seen at Laguna Pedro Palo, Minca, Jardin, Las Tangaras and below the Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves 119) Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia. Two seen at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 120) Pavonine Cuckoo Dromococcyx pavoninus. Heard repeatedly at dawn and dusk at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. Unfortunately we failed to see it. 121) Greater Ani Crotophaga major. Seen at El Paujil and Rio Claro 122) Smooth- billed Ani Crotophaga ani. Seen near Branquilla and Los Flamencos 123) Groove- billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris. Common in mid altitude open areas. 124) Tropical Screech- Owl Megascops choliba. Heard at Otun, one seen well at Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 125) Colombian Screech- Owl Megascops colombianus. Excellent views of one at Otun before dawn. 126) Choco Screech- Owl Megascops centralis. One spotlighted outside our cabins at Rio Claro. 127) White- throated Screech- Owl Megascops albogularis. One at Rio Blanco seen rather poorly. Not a great experience. I was glad I had seen on before.

54 128) Santa Marta Screech Owl Megascops [undescribed form]. One rufous phase roosting at El Dorado and I spotlighted a grey phase early morning with at least six other calling birds around. 129) Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata I had poor views of one at Rio Claro 130) Andean Pygmy- Owl Glaucidium jardinii. Heard at Chicaque and Rio Blanco where we narrowly dipped. Disappointing. 131) Ferruginous Pygmy- Owl Glaucidium brasilianum. Three seen Los Flamencos 132) Mottled Owl Ciccaba virgata. I saw one at El Paujil. We heard one at El Dorado. 133) Rufous- banded Owl Ciccaba albitarsis. One seen pre- dawn above Jardin. 134) Stygian Owl Asio stygius I had one pre- dawn at Chestnut- capped Piha reserve 135) Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis. One roosting at Salamanca. 136) Rufous- bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris One flew over at dusk at Rio Blanco 137) Common Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Heard at multiple sites and several seen particularly at Las Tangaras 138) Lyre- tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra. One female at a roost at Las Tangaras 139) (White- tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis cayennensis. A pair of eyes in the fields at the Cerulean Reserve was probably one but unfortunately no plumage details seen.) 140) Oilbird Steatornis caripensis. Several in their cave at Rio Claro 141) Chestnut- collared Swift Streptoprocne rutile. Fifty over Lago Pedro Palo 142) White- collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris. Seen at multiple sites. 143) Short- tailed Swift Chaetura brachyur. Birds picked out at El Paujil and near Bucaramanga. 144) Grey- rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris. Close birds at Las Tangaras and also at El Paujil and Rio Claro. 145) White- tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus. Some seen in open country near Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 146) White- necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora Seen at Minca, Cerulean Warbler Reserve Rio Claro and El Paujil 147) Rufous- breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsutus Seen at Minca and Rio Claro. 148) Green Hermit Phaethornis guy. Singles at Otun, Jardin, Cerulean and Ibague.

55 149) Tawny- bellied Hermit Phaethornis syrmatophorus. One near Las Tangaras. 150) Long- billed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris. One at El Paujil. 151) Pale- bellied Hermit Phaethornis anthophilus A couple at Taironaka lodge. 152) Stripe- throated Hermit Phaethornis striigularis. One at El Paujil 153) Sooty- capped Hermit Phaethornis augusti. A couple below El Dorado 154) Green- fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicae. Singles at Rio Blanco, Rio Blanco and near Cerulean Warbler reserve. 155) Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae. A single bird coming in regularly at El Dorado and up to seven at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 156) Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus. Common at most higher elevation hummingbird feeders. 157) Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans. Only definitely seen at Colibri del Sol 158) Black- throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis. Common at Grand Via below Lago Pedro Palo and at Cerulean Warbler reserve. 159) Tourmaline Sunangel Heliangelus exortis. Common at Chicaque and the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 160) Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys. Singles at Rio Blanco, Colibri del Sol, Sumapaz and two Cerulean Warbler reserve. 161) Santa Marta Blossomcrown Anthocephala floriceps. Three sightings, 2 at the garden below El Dorado and the other at the shop half way up 162) Long- tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingie. At least three individuals at Colibri del Sol. 163) Violet- tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis Up to eight Las Tangaras. 164) Black- backed Thornbill Ramphomicron dorsale. One male was at the feeders most of the time at El Dorado. 165) Purple- backed Thornbill Ramphomicron microrhynchum. A couple at the Fuertes Parrot site, one Rio Blanco and one Colibri del Sol. 166) Bronze- tailed Thornbill Chalcostigma heteropogon. Three at Sumapaz. 167) Rainbow- bearded Thornbill Chalcostigma herrani. Four lower slopes of Nevada del Ruiz 168) Buffy Helmetcrest Oxypogon stubelii. One at the HQ at Nevada del Ruiz 169) Green- bearded Helmetcrest Oxypogon guerinii. At least four seen, one brilliantly, at Sumapaz. 170) Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina. Three Chingaza, four El Dorado area, up to five Colibri del Sol and four Sumapaz 171) Viridian Metaltail Metallura williami. One at the Hotel Thermales, Nevada del Ruiz. 172) Greenish Puffleg Haplophaedia aureliae. One Otun, up to four daily Las Tangaras and four at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 173) Glowing Puffleg Eriocnemis vestita. Several at Chicaque, Bio Andina and one Colibri del Sol. 174) Black- thighed Puffleg Eriocnemis derbyi Two at the Hotel Thermales. 175) Golden- breasted Puffleg Eriocnemis mosquera. Up to five at Hotel Thermales. 176) Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis. Two at the Hotel Thermales 177) Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena. Seen at Rio Blanco and Jardin. 178) Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni. Up to four daily at Las Tangaras.

56 179) Black Inca Coeligena prunellei. Only seen at the forest feeders at the Cerulean warbler reserve where two or three birds came in. 180) Collared Inca Coeligena torquata. Several seen at multiple Andean sites. 181) White- tailed Starfrontlet Coeligena phalerata at least two males in residence at Eldorado. Stunning. Oddly no females. 182) Dusky Starfrontlet Coeligena orina. 1 male and at least 2 females at Colibri del Sol. 183) Buff- winged Starfrontlet Coeligena lutetiae. Up to five daily at Hotel Thermales.

57 184) Golden- bellied Starfrontlet Coeligena bonapartei. At least five at Chicaque. A stunning hummer. The Venezuelan birds are sometimes split which would leave this as an endemic. 185) Blue- throated Starfrontlet Coeligena helianthea. One female Bio Andina and a male on the mountain outside Bucaramanga. A near endemic, which just gets into Venezuela where I had seen it before. 186) Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi. Singles at Laguna Pedro Palo, Bio Andina, up to three Hotel Thermales, and several at Colibri del Sol. 187) Sword- billed Hummingbird Ensifera ensifera. One Rio Blanco and four Colibri del Sol. 188) Great Sapphirewing Pterophanes cyanopterus. Poor flight views of several at Chingaza and four at the feeders at Hotel Thermales. 189) Buff- tailed Coronet Boissonneaua flavescens. Common at several sites. 190) Velvet- purple Coronet Boissonneaua jardini. Ten plus at the Tangaras feeders. 191) Booted Racket- tail Ocreatus underwoodii. One Otun, two Las Tangaras and six at the Cerulean warbler reserve. 192) White- tailed Hillstar Urochroa bougueri. The others twice saw one at Las Tangaras. 193) Purple- bibbed Whitetip Urosticte benjamini. Three at Las Tangaras. 194) Fawn- breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides. One Cerulean Warbler Reserve and one Combeima canyon 195) Green- crowned Brilliant Heliodoxa jacula. Common at both Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves. 196) Empress Brilliant Heliodoxa imperatrix. Up to three daily at Las Tangaras. 197) Long- billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris 2 at El Paujil 198) White- bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant. Four Lago Pedro Palo, one Jardin and at least fifteen on view at one stage at Colibri del Sol. 199) Gorgeted Woodstar Chaetocercus heliodor. Two at Lago Pedro Palo

58 200) Santa Marta Woodstar Chaetocercus astreans one female in a garden below El Dorado 201) Purple- throated Woodstar Calliphlox mitchellii. Two Las Tangaras and one Ibague. 202) Red- billed Emerald Chlorostilbon gibsoni. One female Minca and males at Cerulean and El Paujil 203) Short- tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon poortmani. One male at Lago Pedro Palo. 204) White- vented Plumeleteer Chalybura buffonii. One below Pedro Palo and common at Minca. 205) Bronze- tailed Plumeleteer Chalybura urochrysia. A handful of these at Rio Blanco. 206) Crowned Woodnymph Thalurania colombica. Common below Pedro Palo, on Santa Marta and at Cerulean Warbler Reserve and Rio Claro. 207) Buffy Hummingbird Leucippus fallax. Two at Los Flamencos 208) Andean Emerald Amazilia franciae. Seen at Las Tangaras, Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves. 209) Steely- vented Hummingbird Amazilia saucerrottei. One below Pedro Palo and very common at Minca. 210) Indigo- capped Hummingbird Amazilia cyanifrons. Common at the lodge feeders at the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 211) Rufous- tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl. Common 212) Sapphire- throated Hummingbird. Lepidopyga coeruleogularis. One at Salamanca. Gabo was certain it was not a Sapphire- bellied. 213) Shining- green Hummingbird Lepidopyga goudoti. One Los Flamencos area. 214) Golden- headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps. Brilliant scope views of one at Las Tangaras, another seen there and heard at Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 215) White- tipped Quetzal Pharomachrus fulgidus. One female on the ridge above El Dorado. 216) White- tailed Trogon Trogon chionurus. Two at both El Paujil and Rio Claro.

59 217) Gartered Trogon Trogon caligatus. One Taironaka, one Rio Claro. 218) Black- throated Trogon Trogon rufus. One El Paujil. 219) Collared Trogon Trogon collaris. Three at Otun, 220) Masked Trogon Trogon personatus. Seen at El Dorado, Rio Blanco and Jardin. 221) Tody Motmot Hylomanes momotula. After some effort we good views of a bird in the Porce river canyon. 222) Whooping Motmot Momotus subrufescens. Four birds Minca area. 223) Andean Motmot Momotus aequatorialis. Birds seen at Otun, Jardin, Colibri del Sol and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 224) Broad- billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum. Two seen at El Paujil. 225) Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata. One Salamanca. 226) Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazon. One Salamanca and two El Paujil. 227) Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle Americana. One Taironaka and Rio Blanco. 228) White- necked Puffbird Notharchus hyperrhynchus. One heard El Paujil. 229) Pied Puffbird Notharchus tectus. One Salamanca. 230) Barred Puffbird Nystalus radiates. Three Rio Claro 231) Russet- throated Puffbird Hypnelus ruficollis. At least three birds Los Flamencos. 232) White- whiskered Puffbird Malacoptila panamensis. One at Rio Claro.

60 233) Moustached Puffbird Malacoptila mystacalis. A pair at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve followed by another the next day. 234) Lanceolated Monklet. Micromonacha lanceolata. One in the mist at Las Tangaras. 235) Grey- cheeked Nunlet Nonnula frontalis. One Rio Claro was a great find. 236) Rufous- tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda. Seen at Flamencos and Taironaka. 237) White- mantled Barbet Capito hypoleucus. Two Chestnut- capped Piha reserve, one Rio Claro and one Cerulean Warbler reserve. 238) Red- headed Barbet Eubucco bourcierii. One at Grand Via, three Las Tangaras, one below Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 239) Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus. One Las Tangaras. 240) Emerald Toucanet Aulacorhynchus prasinus. One Colibri del Sol. 241) Grey- throated Toucanet A. griseigularis. Two Otun, one Rio Blanco, 242) Santa Marta Toucanet A. lautus. One on the ridge above El Dorado 243) Yellow- billed Toucanet Aulacorhynchus calorhynchus. Four below El Dorado. Normally lumped in Groove- billed Toucanet. 244) Crimson- rumped Toucanet A. haematopygus. Two at Cerulean Warbler reserve. 245) Grey- breasted Mountain- Toucan Andigena hypoglauca. Two Nevada Del Ruiz.

61 246) Black- billed Mountain- Toucan Andigena nigrirostris. One seen Otun, heard elsewhere. 247) Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus. Several below Cerulean Warbler reserve and Rio Claro. 248) Black- mandibled Toucan ambiguous Two birds seen at Rio Claro. (Also known as Yellow- throated Toucan). 249) Keel- billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus. One El Dorado. 250) Citron- throated Toucan. Ramphastos citreolaemus. Three El Paujil. 251) Scaled Piculet Picumnus squamulatus. One near Minca. 252) Olivaceous Piculet Picumnus olivaceus. Two on the way to the Cerulean Reserve. 253) Greyish Piculet Picumnus granadensis. One seen on the third attempt at Penalisa, near Bolombolo.

62 254) Chestnut Piculet Picumnus cinnamomeus. Three Los Flamencos. 255) Beautiful Woodpecker Melanerpes pulcher. Three below the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 256) Red- crowned Woodpecker Melanerpes rubricapillus. The commonest woodpecker seen in most open areas 257) Smoky- brown Woodpecker Picoides fumigatus. One Pedro Palo, one below Colibri del Sol. 258) Red- rumped Woodpecker Veniliornis kirkii. Seen at Minca, Colibri Del Sol, El Paujil and near Cerulean reserve, 259) Yellow- vented Woodpecker Veniliornis dignus. One at Las Tangaras 260) Bar- bellied Woodpecker Veniliornis nigriceps. OneRio Blanco. 261) Golden- olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus. Seen at El Dorado, Otun and Las Tangaras. 262) Crimson- mantled Woodpecker Colaptes rivolii. Seen at Bio Andina, Nevada del Ruiz and Rio Blanco. 263) Spot- breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula. Three birds in the Cauca valley. 264) Cinnamon Woodpecker Celeus loricatus. Two at El Paujil 265) Powerful Woodpecker Campephilus pollens. A pair seen at Rio Blanco. 266) Crimson- crested Woodpecker. Campephilus melanoleucas. One El Dorado. 267) Northern Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway. Common in the Flamencos area, El Paujil and Rio Blanco areas. 268) Yellow- headed Caracara Milvago chimachima. Common on the Caribbean coast, Cauca and Magdalena Valleys. 269) Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans. Heard Cerulean reserve, El Paujil and Rio Claro. 270) American Kestrel Falco sparverius. Just four birds seen. 271) Merlin Falco columbarius. Onenear Laguna Pedro Palo

63 272) Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis. One Salamanca and one Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve. 273) Rufous- fronted Parakeet Bolborhynchus ferrugineifrons. Brilliant views of eleven on Nevada del Ruiz followed by even better ones of forty the next day. 274) Blue- fronted Parrotlet. Touit dilectissimus. Heard Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 275) Barred Parakeet Bolborhynchus lineola. Heard at Las Tangaras. 276) Orange- chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis. Common at Taironaka, Minca, Cerulean, El Paujil and Rio Claro. 277) Indigo- winged Parakeet Hapalopsittaca fuertesi. Two above Santa Rosa de Cabal. 278) Saffron- headed Parrot Pyrilia pyrilia. Brilliant views of six at Rio Claro. 279) Red- billed Parrot Pionus sordidus. Three birds seen above El Dorado. 280) Speckle- faced Parrot Pionus tumultuosus. Heard at Otun. 281) Blue- headed Parrot Pionus menstruus. Seen at Minca and common at Rio Claro El Paujil and Magdalena Valley. 282) Yellow- crowned Parrot Amazona ochrocephala. Two at least on the drive out from El Paujil. 283) Orange- winged Parrot Amazona amazonica. At least six identified on the drive out from El Paujil. 284) Scaly- naped Parrot Amazona mercenaries. Fly overs at Minca and above Santa Rosa de Cabal. 285) Green- rumped Parrotlet Forpus passerines. Two Los Flamencos. 286) Spectacled Parrotlet Forpus conspicillatus. First seen below Lago de Pedro Palo, common in the Cauca valley and also seen at el Paujil and near Ibague. 287) Santa Marta Parakeet Pyrrhura viridicata. Eight on the ridge above El Dorado. 288) Brown- breasted Parakeet Pyrrhura calliptera. Eleven at Bio Andina. 289) Brown- throated Parakeet Eupsittula pertinax. Common in the Flamencos and Salamanca areas. 290) Blue- and- yellow Macaw Ara ararauna. Ten flew over on the drive out of El Paujil. 291) Chestnut- fronted Macaw Ara severus. At least ten on the drive out of El Paujil. 292) Golden- plumed Parakeet Leptosittaca branickii. Distant flight views near Santa Rosa de Cabal but good perched views at Rio Blanco.

64 293) Yellow- eared Parrot Ognorhynchus icterotis. At least fifty flying over the forest above Jardin, with three seen perched. 294) Blue- crowned Parakeet Thectocercus acuticaudatus. Eleven flew over at Los Flamencos. 295) Scarlet- fronted Parakeet Psittacara wagleri. Several groups on the ridge above El Dorado. 296) Rufous- rumped Antwren Euchrepomis callinota. Two at Las Tangaras. 297) Black- crested Antshrike Sakesphorus Canadensis. Four Los Flamencos, one near Minca. 298) Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus. One near Ibague 299) Bar- crested Antshrike Thamnophilus multistriatus. One male on our first day at Grand Via, also birds at Otun, near Jardin and one on the way to the Cerulean reserve. 300) Black- crowned Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha. A couple in the Cauca Valley while looking for Greyish Piculet. I prefer the old name Western Slaty Antshrike. 301) Black Antshrike Thamnophilus nigriceps. A pair by the river in El Paujil 302) Uniform Antshrike Thamnophilus unicolor. Singles at Las Tangaras, Tanager- Finch, Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves. 303) Black- backed Antshrike Thamnophilus melanonotus. A pair finally seen below Minca. 304) Recurve- billed Bushbird Clytoctantes alixii. A brilliant pair giving mind blowing views near Bucaramanga. 305) Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis. One Jardin. 306) Checker- throated Antwren Epinecrophylla fulviventris. Two Rio Claro. 307) Pacific Antwren Myrmotherula pacifica. One Rio Claro. 308) Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor. Two Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 309) Yellow- breasted Antwren Herpsilochmus axillaris. One Las Tangaras. 310) Dot- winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis. Three Rio Claro. 311) White- fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea. One near Riohacha. 312) Santa Marta Antbird Drymophila hellmayri. Two above Minca. 313) Streak- headed Antbird Drymophila striaticeps. Heard at Rio Blanco and one seen at Colibri del Sol. 314) Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina. Heard at the Recurve- billed Bushbird site where Ewan saw one. 315) Parker s Antbird Cercomacra parkeri. Three at Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve.

65 316) Jet Antbird Cercomacra nigricans. One near the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 317) Bare- crowned Antbird Gymnocichla nudiceps. One at El Paujil. 318) White- bellied Antbird Myrmeciza longipes. A couple heard and one seen at Taironaka Lodge. 319) Chestnut- backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul. Two El Paujil. 320) Magdalena Antbird Myrmeciza palliata. Two at Rio Blanco, no tape required. 321) Scaled Antpitta Grallaria guatimalensis. Heard Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 322) Plain- backed Antpitta. Grallaria haplonota. Heard at Las Tangaras. 323) Chestnut- crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla 324) Santa Marta Antpitta Grallaria bangsi. At least three birds heard on the ridge above El Dorado on two dates but we were unable to see any of them. 325) Bicoloured Antpitta Grallaria rufocinerea. One below Hotel Thermales and then another at the feeding station in Rio Blanco. 326) Chestnut- naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis. Heard at Nevada del Ruiz, and Rio Blanco. 327) Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula. One seen above Jardin, heard at Santa Marta where it is almost certainly a different endemic species, also at Nevada del Ruiz. Unfortunately the form we saw seems to be the same one I had previously seen in Ecuador. 328) Tawny Antpitta Grallaria quitensis. One Nevada del Ruiz, at least four Sumapaz. 329) Urrao Antpitta Grallaria urraoensis. Two at the feeding station and three at dawn on the tracks at Colibri del Sol the next day. 330) Brown- banded Antpitta Grallaria milleri. One came in to be hand fed at Rio Blanco. 331) Rusty- breasted Antpitta Grallaricula ferrugineipectus. One above Minca. 332) Slate- crowned Antpitta Grallaricula nana. A pair came in for brilliant views at Rio Blanco.

66 333) Ash- coloured Tapaculo. Myornis senils. Heard at Rio Blanco and below Cerulean Warbler reserve. 334) Blackish Tapaculo Scytalopus latrans. A couple on our first day at Chicaque, including a recently fledged juvenile, which just about managed to fly. Also seen below Hotel Thermales and Rio Blanco. 335) Santa Marta Tapaculo Scytalopus sanctaemartae. Great views of one above Minca showing off its white spot. 336) White- crowned Tapaculo Scytalopus atratus. Common and obliging at the Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve, three easily seen even without tape. 337) Magdalena Tapaculo Scytalopus rodriguezi. We only located one of these in the forest at Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. Ewan and Pablo saw it as it came into tape but Chris and I failed to get onto it. 338) Stiles s Tapaculo Scytalopus stilesi. Great close views of one at Otun. 339) Narino Tapaculo Scytalopus vicinior. Heard at Las Tangaras, we made no real attempt to see one. 340) Choco Tapaculo Scytalopus chocoensis. Heard at Las Tangaras, we made no real attempt to see one. 341) Brown- rumped Tapaculo Scytalopus latebricola. One above El Dorado was very obliging. 342) Spillmann s Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni. Heard at Rio Blanco, Jardin, and above Santa Rosa de Cabal. 343) Pale- bellied Tapaculo Scytalopus griseicollis. One showed well if briefly at Bio Andina. Very different from the other look- alike Tapaculos on this trip. 344) Paramillo Tapaculo Scytalopus canus. Unfortunately only heard at Colibri del Sol. 345) Paramo Tapaculo Scytalopus opacus. I flushed one onto the trunk of a tree in a paddock on Nevada del Ruiz. A bit of a surprise for both of us! 346) Alto Pisones Tapaculo Scytalopus [undescribed form] One came in and showed at Las Tangaras 347) Grey- throated Leaftosser Sclerurus albigularis. Heard above El Dorado. 348) Wedge- billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus. Singles at El Paujil and two Rio Claro. 349) Strong- billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus promeropirhynchus. Three at El Dorado and Otun. 350) Cocoa Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus susurranus. Two above Minca and two more Rio Claro. 351) Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius. Two at Las Tangaras. 352) Olive- backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis. One Cerulean Warbler week. 353) Straight- billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus. Four at Salamanca, also one below Minca, one en route to the Cerulean Warbler reserve and one El Paujil. 354) Streak- headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii. Odd birds at multiple sites. 355) Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger. Three around El Dorado, two Otun, and also at Rio Blanco and Jardin. 356) Plain Xenops Xenops minutus. One below Chestnut- capped Piha reserve and one Rio Claro. 357) Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans. Singles at Las Tangaras and Colibri del Sol. 358) Pacific Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes johnsonii. One at Las Tangaras.

67 359) Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii. Singles Nevada del Ruiz, Rio Blanco, and Colibri del Sol. 360) Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens. Singles at Las Tangaras and near the Tanager- Finch reserve. 361) Caribbean Hornero Furnarius longirostris. One at Los Flamencos. A split from Pale- legged Hornero. 362) Chestnut- winged Cinclodes Cinclodes albidiventris. Two Sumapaz 363) Stout- billed Cinclodes Cinclodes excelsior. One Nevada del Ruiz 364) Buff- fronted Foliage- gleaner Philydor rufum. One at Las Tangaras and two Colibri del Sol. 365) Scaly- throated Foliage- gleaner Anabacerthia variegaticeps. Two Las Tangaras. 366) Montane Foliage- gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis. One Lago Pedro Palo and one Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 367) Lineated Foliage- gleaner Syndactyla subalaris 368) Santa Marta Foliage- gleaner Clibanornis rufipectus. One above Minca. 369) Uniform Treehunter Thripadectes ignobilis. One Las Tangaras. 370) Flammulated Treehunter Thripadectes flammulatus. Heard at Rio Blanco but we failed to see it there or elsewhere, an annoying dip. 371) Striped Treehunter Thripadectes holostictus. Two seen above Bucaramanga. 372) Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger. Seen at several sites 373) Andean Tit- Spinetail Leptasthenura andicola. Two at Nevada del Ruiz. 374) White- browed Spinetail Hellmayrea gularis. Two in some bamboo above Jardin and I had another at Colbri del Sol. 375) Many- striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata One at Nevada del Ruiz. 376) White- chinned Thistletail Asthenes fuliginosa. A couple at Chingaza 377) Red- faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops. Common at Las Tangaras and Colibri del Sol. 378) Streak- capped Spinetail Cranioleuca hellmayri. Three above El Dorado. 379) Ash- browed Spinetail Cranioleuca curtata. One at Laguna Pedro Palo 380) Yellow- chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomeus. Two in the marshes near Barranquilla. 381) Silvery- throated Spinetail Synallaxis subpudica a pair eventually tracked down below Sumapaz. 382) Azara s Spinetail Synallaxis azarae. Common by voice in the high central Andes sites and Sumapaz. Four birds seen.

68 383) Rusty- headed Spinetail Synallaxis fuscorufa. Two finally seen above El Dorado. 384) White- whiskered Spinetail Synallaxis Candei. Eleven seen at Los Flamencos. 385) Brown- capped Tyrannulet Ornithion brunneicapillus. One en route to the Cerulean Reserve. 386) Southern Beardless- Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum. One en route to the Cerulean Reserve and one Rio Claro. 387) White- banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus. Seen at Lago Pedro Palo, common at Nevada del Ruiz and also at Jardin and Colibri del Sol 388) White- throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys. Common at the high altitude sites. 389) Agile Tit- Tyrant Uromyias agilis. The others saw one at Nevada del Ruiz 390) Mouse- coloured Tyrannnulet Phaeomyas murina. One in the Cauca Valley. 391) Yellow- crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus. Three Rio Claro. 392) Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata. Heard at El Paujil. 393) Yellow- bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster. Three Grand Via, with birds in the Cauca Valley and Ibague. 394) Mountain Elaenia Elaenia frantzii. Seen at Bio Andina, Rio Blanco, Jardin and Cerulean Warbler reserve. 395) Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea. One seemed very out of place on the pools at Guasca 396) Streak- necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis. Seen at several sites. 397) Ochre- bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous. Seen at Minca, Rio Claro and Jardin. 398) Sepia- capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus. One El Paujil and two Rio Claro. 399) Slaty- capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris. Two at Rio Claro. 400) Rufous- breasted Flycatcher Leptopogon rufipectus. Four at Otun and one Rio Blanco.

69 401) Variegated Bristle- Tyrant Phylloscartes poecilotis. One at Otun. 402) Marble- faced Bristle- Tyrant Phylloscartes ophthalmicus. At least six at Otun. 403) Antioquia Bristle- Tyrant Phylloscartes lanyoni. Two at Rio Claro. 404) Rufous- browed Tyrannulet Phylloscartes superciliaris. One possibly two at Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve 405) Sooty- headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps. Singles at Pedro Palo, Minca, Jardin and El Paujil. 406) Black- capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus. One Bio Andina and three Rio Blanco. 407) Plumbeous- crowned Tyrannulet Phyllomyias plumbeiceps. One at Otun. 408) Golden- faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops. Seen at multiple sites. 409) Coopman s Tyrannulet Zimmerius minimus. One responded to tape above Minca giving decent views. Looks pretty similar to previous species.

70 410) Northern Scrub- Flycatcher Sublegatus arenarum. At least seven seen in the Los Flamencos area. 411) Slender- billed Tyrannulet Inezia tenuirostris. Four Los Flamencos. 412) Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus. Common at Las Tangaras and also seen at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 413) Bronze- olive Pygmy- Tyrant Pseudotriccus pelzelni. One at Otun and four at Las Tangaras 414) Rufous- headed Pygmy- Tyrant Pseudotriccus ruficeps. One Rio Blanco. 415) Scale- crested Pygmy- Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus. One near Ibague. 416) Pale- eyed Pygmy- Tyrant Atalotriccus pilari. One at Minca. 417) Southern Bentbill Oncostoma olivaceum. Singles Taironaka, Rio Claro and Cerulean Warbler reserve. 418) Pearly- vented Tody- Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer. One Los Flamencos. 419) Black- throated Tody- Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis. One El Dorado and one Tangaras- Finch Reserve. 420) Rufous- crowned Tody- Flycatcher Poecilotriccus ruficeps. One heard at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 421) Slate- headed Tody- Flycatcher Poecilotriccus sylvia. Singles El Paujil and Rio Claro. 422) Common Tody- Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum. Several seen in more open and lower areas. 423) Black- headed Tody- Flycatcher Todirostrum nigriceps. Two Los Flamencos, and also seen en route to the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 424) Olivaceous Flatbill Rhynchocyclus olivaceus. Four at Rio Claro. 425) Yellow- olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens. One at El Paujil. 426) Yellow- margined Flycatcher Tolmomyias assimilis. Three in the Cauca Valley.

71 427) Yellow- breasted Flycatcher Tolmomyias flaviventris. One El Paujil, one Cauca Valley. 428) Ruddy- tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus. One en route to the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 429) Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus. Common, including the distinctive race on Santa Marta. 430) Handsome Flycatcher Nephelomyiaspulcher. Seen at Las Tangaras. 431) Black- tailed Flycatcher Myiobius atricaudus. One El Paujil. 432) Black- billed Flycatcher Aphanotriccus audax One El Paujil 433) Olive- sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi. One Magdalena Valley. 434) Smoke- coloured Pewee Contopus fumigatus. Seen above Jardin, at Las Tangaras and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 435) Western Wood- Pewee Contopus sordidulus Heard Lago Pedro Palo 436) Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus. Birds seen at several sites. Many unidentified to species as all three occur. 437) Acadian Flycatcher Empidonax virescens. Heard at several sites and several probables seen but not calling. One bird seen and calling at Rio Claro. 438) Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans. Common near water. 439) Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus. Seen at many open country locations. 440) Plain- capped Ground- Tyrant Muscisaxicola alpinus. Two seen at Sumapaz. 441) Streak- throated Bush- Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis. One on at Bio Andina, one on the ridge above El Dorado and two Jardin. 442) Santa Marta Bush- Tyrant Myiotheretes pernix. One on the ridge above El Dorado. Beware confusing the previous species with it. 443) Pied Water- Tyrant Fluvicola pica. Two on day one at Grand Via and several in the Los Flamencos and Baranquilla areas.

72 444) White- headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala. On near Baranquilla. 445) Crowned Chat- Tyrant Ochthoeca frontalis. Two at Nevada del Ruiz. 446) Yellow- bellied Chat- Tyrant Ochthoeca diadema. Two at El Dorado. 447) Slaty- backed Chat- Tyrant Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris. One above Santa Rosa de Cabal and above Las Tangaras. 448) Rufous- breasted Chat- Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis. Birds seen at Bio Andina, Nevada del Ruiz and Jardin. 449) Brown- backed Chat- Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor. Two daily at Nevada del Ruiz and two Colibri del Sol and Sumapaz. 450) Long- tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus. Singles en route to Cerulean Reserve and Rio Claro. 451) Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosa. Not uncommon in lowland open areas. 452) Bright- rumped Attila Attila spadiceus. A couple at Rio Claro. 453) Dusky- capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer. Singles at Minca, Chestnut- capped Piha reserve and en route to Cerulean Warbler reserve. 454) Venezuelan Flycatcher Myiarchus venezuelensis. One Los Flamencos 455) Panama Flycatcher Myiarchus panamensis. Seen below Minca and four at Salamanca. 456) Apical Flycatcher Myiarchus apicalis. Two seen in the Cauca Valley above Bolombolo. 457) Pale- edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes. Seen at Rio Blanco and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 458) Great- crested Flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus. Seen below Cerulean Reserve, in Cauca valley and Rio Claro. 459) Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus. Common. 460) Boat- billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua. Seen Cerulean Reserve and El Paujil. 461) Rusty- margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis. Common. 462) Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis. One at Grand Via on day one. 463) Golden- crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus. Seen at El Dorado and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 464) Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus. Seen in the Cauca valley, El Paujil and Rio Claro. 465) Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius. Two in the Combeima Canyon. 466) Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus. Widespread and common. 467) Grey Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis. Common in the Caribbean lowlands. 468) Fork- tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana. One Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve 469) Green- and- black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii. Four at Rio Blanco, two Jardin and two Colibri del Sol.

73 470) Golden- breasted Fruiteater Pipreola aureopectus. Two seen El Dorado where others heard. 471) Orange- breasted Fruiteater Pipreola jucunda. Five at Las Tangaras. 472) Scaled Fruiteater Ampelioides tschudii. One heard at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. A big dip. 473) Chestnut- crested Cotinga Ampelion rufaxilla. One distantly above Jardin. 474) Andean Cock- of- the- rock Rupicola peruvianus. At least twenty males at Jardin. 475) Olivaceous Piha Snowornis cryptolophus. One at Las Tangaras. 476) Red- ruffed Fruitcrow Pyroderus scutatus. Seven at Otun.

74 477) Chestnut- capped Piha Lipaugus weberi. One on the ridge at its namesake reserve. 478) Yellow- headed Manakin Chloropipo flavicapilla. I saw one briefly at La Romera. 479) Lance- tailed Manakin Chiroxiphia lanceolata. One at Taironaka. 480) Golden- winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus. A female at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 481) White- bibbed Manakin Corapipo leucorrhoa. One male on the way to the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 482) Blue- crowned Manakin. Lepidothrix coronate. A female at Rio Claro. 483) White- bearded Manakin Manacus manacus. A female at El Paujil and at least Six Rio Claro. 484) Striped Manakin Machaeropterus regulus. A female at Rio Claro. 485) Wing- barred Piprites Pipritis chloris. One heard Cerulean Warbler reserve. 486) Black- crowned TityraTityra inquisitor. Three at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 487) Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor. Four at Las Tangaras. 488) Cinereous Becard Pachyramphus rufus. One male Ibague. 489) Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus. Two Rio Claro. 490) One- coloured Becard Pachyramphus homochrous. Four Rio Claro. 491) Yellow- throated Vireo Vireoflavifrons. One below the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 492) Brown- capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys. Common Pedro Palo, also seen near Las Tangaras and Cauca Valley. 493) Red- eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus. One in the Cauca valley. 494) Yellow- green Vireo Vireo flavoviridis. Seen near Minca. 495) Rufous- naped Greenlet Hylophilus semibrunneus. Two at Otun, plus birds in the Cauca valley, in the Chestnut- capped Piha and below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 496) Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus. One Rio Claro. 497) Scrub Greenlet Hylophilus flavipes. Two near Los Flamencos. 498) Golden- fronted Greenlet Hylophilus aurantiifrons. Three at Minca. 499) Yellow- browed Shrike- Vireo Vireolanius eximius. One in the Porce River Canyon, heard below the Cerulean reserve and at Rio Claro.

75 500) Rufous- browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis. One on the way to the Cerulean Warbler reserve and one Magdalena Valley. 501) Black- billed Peppershrike Cyclarhis nigrirostris. Seen at Jardin and Las Tangaras. Heard elsewhere. 502) Beautiful Jay Cyanolyca pulchra. Three at Las Tangaras. 503) Black- chested Jay Cyanocorax affinis.. Seen at Taironaka, Minca, Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves.

76 504) Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas. Two seen at Otun but heard at many other sites. 505) Blue- and- white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca. Common. 506) Pale- footed Swallow Orochelidon flavipes. The others saw some. 507) Brown- bellied Swallow Orochelidon murina. Common at the higher sites. 508) Southern Rough- winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis. Common at the lower elevation sites. 509) Brown- chested Martin Progne tapera. A few noted as several sites. 510) Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica. One near Barranquilla. 511) House Wren Troglodytes aedon. Common. 512) Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis. Singles at Nevada del Ruiz and Colibri del Sol. 513) Grass Wren Cistothorus platensis. Singles seen at Chingaza and Nevada del Ruiz. 514) Apolinar s Wren Cistothorus apolinari. Three at Sumapaz. 515) White- headed Wren Campylorhynchus albobrunneus. Six at Las Tangaras. 516) Band- backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus. One Rio Claro. 517) Stripe- backed Wren s nuchalis. One near Baranquilla. 518) Bicoloured Wren Campylorhynchus griseus. Several seen near Baranquilla and Minca and also at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 519) Sooty- headed Wren Pheugopedius spadix. A pair at the Chestnut- capped Piha lodge.

77 520) Black- bellied Wren Pheugopedius fasciatoventris. One on the way to the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 521) Whiskered Wren Pheugopedius mystacalis. Heard on the mountain near Bucaramanga and one seen very briefly at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. Incredibly skulking. 522) Rufous- breasted Wren Pheugopedius rutilus. One at Minca. 523) Speckle- breasted Wren Pheugopedius sclateri. Silhouette views at Ibague. 524) Rufous- and- white Wren Thryophilus rufalbus. Two at Minca. 525) Antioquia Wren Thryophilus sernai. Three at Penalisa near Bolombolo. 526) Niceforo s Wren Thryophilus nicefori. Two seen Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 527) Bay Wren Cantorchilus nigricapillus. Four at Rio Claro. 528) Buff- breasted Wren Cantorchilus leucotis. Three at Taironaka. 529) Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa. Seen at Rio Blanco and Jardin. 530) Sharpe s Wren Cinnycerthia olivascens. Two at Las Tangaras. 531) Grey- breasted Wood- Wren Henicorhina leucophrys. Common in the Andes. 532) Hermit Wood- Wren H. anachoreta. Three seen around Minca. 533) Bang s Wood- Wren H. bangsi. One seen above El Dorado. These two last forms have been( in the case of Hermit) or soon will be split from the somewhat variable Grey- breasted Wood- Wren 534) Munchique Wood- Wren Henicorhina negreti. Two very obliging birds at the Tanager- Finch reserve. 535) Chestnut- breasted Wren Cyphorhinus thoracicus. One performed well at Otun. 536) Long- billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus. Heard at the Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve and en route to the Cerulean warbler Reserve. 537) Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea. Several seen in the Caribbean coastal area and in the Cauca valley. 538) White- capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus. Pairs at Otun and Colibri del Sol. 539) Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides. Recorded at Otun, Las Tangaras, Colibri del Sol and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve with four seen.

78 540) Orange- billed Nightingale- Thrush Catharus aurantiirostris. The others saw one at Otun. 541) Slaty- backed Nightingale- Thrush Catharus fuscater. One on the compost heap daily at El Dorado. 542) Grey- cheeked Thrush Catharus minimus. Four at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve and a couple Ibague. 543) Swainson s Thrush Catharus ustulatus. Seen at most Andean sites and Santa Marta. 544) Black Solitaire Entomodestes coracinus. Flight views only at Las Tangaras but we did not try hard as none of us needed it 545) Yellow- legged Thrush Turdus flavipes. Common on Santa Marta Mountain and also one seen at the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 546) Pale- breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas. Common at Minca Rio Claro also seen in Puerto Boyaca. 547) Clay- coloured Thrush Turdus grayi. One at the restaurant at Penalisa near Bolombolo in the Cauca valley. 548) Black- billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis. Common and widespread. 549) Great Thrush Turdus fuscater. Common in the higher altitude locations. 550) Glossy- black Thrush Turdus serranus. One at Otun. 551) Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus. Common lower areas. 552) Northern Waterthrush Parkesia novobracensis.. Seen at Los Flamencos, Salamanca, Jardin, Las Tangaras and below Colibri del Sol. 553) Golden- winged Warbler Vermivora chrysoptera. One at Las Tangaras. 554) Black- and- white Warbler Mniotilta varia. Scattered birds in the Andes. 555) Prothonotary Warbler Protonotaria citrea. Six seen at Salamanca. 556) Tennessee Warbler Oreothlypis peregrine. Common at Minca, Chestnut- capped Piha area and below the Cerulean reserve where up to 15 seen in a day. 557) Mourning Warbler Geothlypis Philadelphia. One at our hotel in the Combeima Canyon. However some features such as black lores and white- eye crescents suggested MacGillivray s Warbler, which would be a first for Colombia. 558) American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla. Five birds seen around Minca..

79 559) Cerulean Warbler Setophaga cerulean. Singles at Las Tangaras, Chestnut- capped Piha reserve and Ibague. 560) Tropical Parula Setophaga pitiayumi. Singles at Otun, Las Tangaras and Ibague. 561) Bay- breasted Warbler Setophaga castanea. Common below the Cerulean Warbler Reserve and Ibague area. 562) Blackburnian Warbler Setophaga fusca. The commonest migrant North American Warbler, seen at most higher altitudes sites. 563) Yellow Warbler Setophaga petechial. One below Pedro Palo several Los Flamencos/ Salamanca area and one in the Cauca valley. 564) Chestnut- sided Warbler. Setophaga pensylvanica. One Minca. 565) Citrine Warbler Myiothlypis luteoviridis. One Rio Blanco and I had two of the different looking richardsoni race at Colibri del Sol. 566) Santa Marta Warbler Myiothlypis basilicus. Four on the ridge above El Dorado. 567) Black- crested Warbler Myiothlypis nigrocristata. Three Chicaque, one Pedro Palo, one below Hotel Thermales and one Colibri del Sol. 568) Buff- rumped Warbler Myiothlypis fulvicauda. Below the Cerulean Warbler reserve, El Paujil and Rio Claro. 569) White- lored Warbler Myiothlypis conspicillata. Seven seen above Minca. 570) Russet- crowned Warbler Myiothlypis coronate. Seen at Otun, Rio Blanco, Jardin, Colibri del Sol and above Bucaramanga. 571) Rufous- capped Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons. First seen at Grand Via, then around Minca, below the Cerulean reserve and the Combeima Canyon. 572) Golden- crowned Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons. Five seen in the Cauca Valley were the only ones. 573) Three- Striped Warbler Basileuterus culicovoris. Common at Las Tangaras and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 574) Canada Warbler Cardellina Canadensis. Twenty at Otun, with ones and twos at most Andean sites. 575) Slate- throated Whitestart Myioborus miniatus. Common with birds seen at multiple sites. 576) Yellow- crowned Whitestart Myioborus flavivertex. Two above El Dorado. 577) Golden- fronted Whitestart Myioborus ornatus. Common in the Andes with the white- faced ssp in the east.

80 578) Black- capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropleus. One Nevada del Ruiz, at Otun and Jardin the commonest bird in the mixed flocks. 579) Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris. Seen at Nevada del Ruiz, Otun, Jardin and below The Cerulean reserve with up to four daily. 580) Oleaginous Hemispingus Hemispingus frontalis. One near the Tanager- Finch reserve. 581) Grey- headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata. A total of seven seen at Minca, Cerulean Warbler reserve, Rio Claro and Ibague. 582) White- shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus. One Cerulean Warbler reserve and two Rio Claro. 583) Tawny- crested Tanager Tachyphonus delatrii. One Rio Claro. 584) White- lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus. One El Dorado and the others had one below the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 585) Crimson- backed Tanager Ramphocelus dimidiatus. Common in the lower montane sites. 586) Lemon- rumped Tanager Rhamphocelus icteronotus. Five Cerulean Warbler reserve. 587) Flame- rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus. A few birds seen in the central Andes and Cauca Valley. 588) Black- and- gold Tanager Bangsia melanochlamys. Thirteen sightings of this excellent tanager at Las Tangaras. Also one at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 589) Gold- ringed Tanager Bangsia aureocincta. One seen on the ridge at Las Tangaras. How Juan got it in the scope so fast was amazing. 590) Hooded Mountain- Tanager Buthraupis montana. Seven above Santa Rosa de Cabal and five at Nevada del Ruiz. 591) Grass- green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii. Four above Santa Rosa de Cabal. I always think they are made of plastic.

81 592) Santa Marta Mountain- Tanager Anisognathus melanogenys. Several groups on the ridge above El Dorado. 593) Lacrimose Mountain- Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus. Odd birds seen above Santa Rosa de Cabal, Rio Blanco, Jardin and Colibri del Sol. 594) Scarlet- bellied Mountain- Tanager Anisognathus igniventris. Seen at Lago Pedro Palo, above Santa Rosa de Cabal, Nevada del Ruiz and above Bucaramanga. 595) Blue- winged Mountain- Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus. Seen at Rio Blanco, Las Tangaras and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 596) Black- chinned Mountain- Tanager Anisognathus notabilis. Two at Las Tangaras. 597) Buff- breasted Mountain- Tanager Dubusia taeniata. Singles at Rio Blanco, Jardin and Combeima canyon. 598) Purplish- mantled Tanager Iridosornis porphyrocephalus. Six seen at both Las Tangaras and Chestnut- capped Piha Reserves. 599) Golden- crowned Tanager Iridosornis rufivertex. Six at Colibri del Sol. 600) Fawn- breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota. Only seen at Otun. 601) Glistening- green Tanager Chlorochrysa phoenicotis. Five seen at Las Tangaras. 602) Multicoloured Tanager Chlorochrysa nitidissima. One immature and adult at Otun and an adult on the ridge at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 603) Blue- grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus. Common. 604) Glaucous Tanager Thraupis glaucocolpa. One at Los Flamencos. 605) Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum. Common at lower altitude sites. 606) Blue- capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala. Several at El Dorado and the chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 607) Scrub Tanager Tangara vitriolina. Commonly seen at more open Andean sites. 608) Golden- hooded Tanager Tangara larvata. Seen at Jardin, Las Tangaras and Rio Claro. 609) Blue- necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis. Seen at multiple sites. 610) Rufous- throated Tanager Tangara rufigula. Six at Las Tangaras.

82 611) Speckled Tanager Tangara guttata. Seen at Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves, five in total. 612) Blue- and- black Tanager Tangara vassorii. Common at Otun, Rio Blanco, Nevada del Ruiz and above Santa Rosa de Cabal. 613) Beryl- spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis. Seen at Otun, Rio Blanco, Las Tangaras, Colibri del Sol and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 614) Metallic- green Tanager Tangara labradorides. One Pedro Palo, ten Otun and one near Tanager- finch reserve. 615) Plain- coloured Tanager Tangara inornata. One below The Cerulean Warbler reserve and four Rio Claro. 616) Bay- headed Tanager Tangara gyrola. A few at widespread sites. 617) Saffron- crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala. Seen at Jardin and Las Tangaras. 618) Golden Tanager Tangara arthus. Commonly seen in Andean forest sites 619) Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis. Only seen at Minca and below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 620) Yellow- tufted Dacnis Dacnis egregia. Four below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 621) Turquoise Dacnis Dacnis hartlaubi. One male at the Cerulean Warbler lodge. 622) Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana. Seen at Jardin and below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 623) Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus. Seen near Minca and Ibague. 624) Red- legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus. One near Minca. 625) Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza. One below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 626) Golden- collared Honeycreeper Iridophanes pulcherrimus. One Las Tangaras. 627) Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira.one in the Cauca Valley. 628) Yellow- backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis. Two below the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve and one near Ibague. 629) Blue- backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor. Six at Chingaza and six Nevada del Ruiz. 630) Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons. Two Nevada del Ruiz and one above Bucaramanga. 631) Rufous- browed Conebill Conirostrum rufum. One at Sumapaz. 632) Chestnut- bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa gloriosissima. At least six at Colibri del Sol. 633) Glossy Flowerpiercer Diglossa lafresnayii. Two at Hotel Thermales. 634) Black Flowerpiercer Diglossa humeralis. Seen at Minca, Jardin, Las Tangaras and Colibri Del Sol. 635) Black- throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris. Eight at Colibri Del Sol. 636) White- sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera. Seen at multiple Andean sites.

83 637) Indigo Flowerpiercer Diglossa indigotica. Five seen at Las Tangaras. 638) Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides. One above El Dorado. 639) Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossa caerulescens. Two below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 640) Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossa cyanea. Common at many sites. 641) Plushcap Catamblyrhynchus diadema. Two at Chingaza, and two at Jardin. 642) Black- backed Bush Tanager Urothraupis stolzmanni. A party of about seven on the lower slopes of Nevada del Ruiz. 643) Plumbeous Sierra- Finch Phrygilus unicolor. Three females at Sumapaz. 644) Slaty Finch Haplospiza rustica. Two on the mountain outside Bucaramanga.

84 645) Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola. Common at Grand Via on our first day and below the Cerulean reserve, at Rio Claro and Ibague. 646) Grassland Yellow- Finch Sicalis luteola. At least six at Guasca. 647) Blue- black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina. Common at the Cerulean Warbler reserve, El Paujil and Rio Claro areas. 648) Ruddy- breasted Seedeater Sporophila minuta. Singles below Pedro Palo and in the Cauca and Magdalena valleys. 649) Thick- billed Seed- Finch Sporophila funereal. Singles at El Paujil and Cerulean Warbler reserves. 650) Grey Seedeater Sporophila intermedia. One at Los Flamencos and one Taironaka. 651) Yellow- bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis. A few around the lodge at Las Tangaras. 652) Slate- coloured Seedeater Sporophila schistacea. One seen en route to the Cerulean Warbler reserve was a bonus. 653) Plain- coloured Seedeater Catamenia inornata. Four near El Dorado and eight above Santa Rosa de Cabal. 654) Paramo Seedeater Catamenia homochroa. One on the ridge above El Dorado and two at both Nevada del Ruiz and Sumapaz. 655) Pileated Finch Coryphospingus pileatus. A couple of scruffy birds at Los Flamencos. 656) Bananaquit Coereba flaveola. Common at some of the lower altitudes sites. 657) Yellow- faced Grassquit Tiaris olivaceus. Three near Jardin. 658) Dull- coloured Grassquit Tiaris obscurus. Five near Minca. 659) Black- faced Grassquit Tiaris bicolor. Three Los Flamencos. 660) Dusky- faced Tanager Mitrospingus cassinii. A couple of groups at Rio Claro. 661) Rosy Thrush- Tanager Rhodinocichla rosea. One seen briefly at Ibague. 662) Buff- throated Saltator Saltator maximus. Common. 663) Black- winged Saltator Saltator atripennis. Three at Otun and one Las Tangaras. 664) Orinocan Saltator Saltator orenocensis. Three at Los Flamencos. 665) Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens. Seen at Taironaka, Minca and Jardin.

85 666) Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus.two at Minca. 667) Masked Saltator Saltator cinctus. An amazing six seen at Rio Blanco. 668) Slate- coloured Grosbeak Saltator grossus. Two en route to the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 669) Tanager Finch Oreothraupis arremonops. One heard above Jardin 670) Olive Finch Arremon castaneiceps. Six different birds seen at Las Tangaras.

86 671) Chestnut- capped Brush- Finch Arremon brunneinucha. Seen at Pedro Palo, Chestnut- capped and Cerulean Warbler reserves. 672) Orange- billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris. Seen at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve, el Paujil and Rio Claro. 673) Golden- winged Sparrow Arremon schlegeli. Three birds seen at Minca 674) Black- headed Brush- Finch Arremon atricapillus. Two below the Chestnut- capped Piha Reserve. 675) Sierra Nevada Brush- Finch Arremon basilicus. A pair above Minca. 676) Grey- browed Brush- Finch Arremon assimilis. Heard at Nevada del Ruiz and Colibri del Sol. 677) Tocuyo Sparrow Arremonops tocuyensisone. One eventually at Los Flamencos. 678) Moustached Brush- finch Atlapete albofrenatus. Two above Bucaramanga. 679) White- naped Brush- Finch Atlapetes albinucha. One Combeima Canyon. 680) Santa Marta Brush- Finch Atlapetes melanocephalus. Common in the El Dorado area. 681) Pale- naped Brush- Finch Atlapetes pallidinucha. Several at Nevada del Ruiz and Sumapaz. 682) Yellow- headed Brush- Finch Atlapetes flaviceps. Two at the Combeima Canyon. 683) Choco Brush- Finch Atlapetes chocoensis. Two at Las Tangaras. 684) Slaty Brush- Finch Atlapetes schistaceus. Seen at multiple sites. 685) Rufous- collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis. Very common 686) Common Chlorospingus Chlorospingus flavopectus. Four at Otun. 687) Dusky Chlorospingus Chlorospingus semifuscus. Four at Las Tangaras. 688) Yellow- throated Chlorospingus. Chlorospingus flavigularis. Seven at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 689) Ashy- throated Chlorospingus Chlorospingus canigularis. One at Otun. 690) Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava. One at Minca. 691) Summer Tanager Piranga rubra. Scattered birds at lower elevations. 692) White- winged Tanager Piranga leucoptera. Ewan had one at the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 693) Sooty Ant- Tanager Habia gutturalis. Un- tickable views for me below the Chestnut- capped Piha reserve and one seen well at El Paujil 694) Crested Ant- Tanager Habia cristata. A pair finally found at Ibague.

87 695) Vermilion Cardinal Cardinalis phoeniceus. A pair at Los Flamencos. 696) Rose- breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus. Twenty- five or so coming in to roost above Minca. 697) Blue- black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides. One Minca, two Ibague. 698) Dickcissel Spiza Americana. One Los Flamencos. 699) Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna. Guasca and Cerulean Warbler reserve. 700) Red- breasted Blackbird Sturnella militaris. Two near Barranquilla. 701) Great- tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus. Common on the Caribbean coast. 702) Carib Grackle Quiscalus lugubris. Common on the coast also at El Paujil and Rio Claro. 703) Red- bellied Grackle Hypopyrrhus pyrohypogaster. Six above Jardin and a couple at en route to Colibri del Sol and Chestnut- capped Piha reserve. 704) Yellow- hooded Blackbird Chrysomus icterocephalus. Eight near Baranquilla. 705) Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis. Common. 706) Yellow- backed Oriole Icterus chrysater. Seen at Grand Via, Las Tangaras and below the Cerulean Warbler Reserve. 707) Orange- crowned Oriole Icterus auricapillus. Two Taironaka and one below the Cerulean Warbler reserve. 708) Yellow Oriole Icterus nigrogularis. Three around Minca. 709) Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula. One in a flowering tree between the Cerulean Warbler reserve and Puerto Boyaca. 710) Yellow- billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus. One Taironaka. 711) Yellow- rumped Cacique Cacicus cela. One Rio Claro. 712) Russet- backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons. Seen at Jardin, Las Tangaras, Chestnut- capped Piha and Cerulean Warbler reserves 713) Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus. A few around El Dorado/Minca. 714) Trinidad Euphonia Euphonia trinitatis. Seven seen in Los Flamencos.

88 715) Velvet- fronted Euphonia Euphonia concinna. A pair in the Magdalena valley below Ibague 716) Thick- billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris. Common. 717) Golden- rumped Euphonia Euphonia cyanocephala. Two El Paujil. 718) Fulvous- vented Euphonia Euphonia fulvicrissa. Four Rio Claro. 719) Orange- bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster. A few at the lower elevation Andean sites. 720) Blue- naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea. Very common at El Dorado. 721) Chestnut- breasted Chlorophonia Chlorophonia pyrrhophrys. A couple at Las Tangaras. 722) Lesser Goldfinch Spinus psaltria. Ten at Grand Via, one Otun and one Combeima Canyon. 723) Andean Siskin Spinus spinescens. One La Florida and four Sumapaz. 724) Yellow- bellied Siskin Spinus xanthogastrus. Seen at Nevada del Ruiz, above Santa Rosa de Cabal and Las Tangaras. 725) Hooded Siskin Spinus megellanicus. One Otun.

89 With thanks to Juan Julio our excellent driver, Hernan a brilliant guide and Pablo for running it so expertly for us as well as his own guiding. paul.noakes@nhs.net