Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta February 3-17,

Transcription

1 412COL1 03/27/11 - SH 07/25/11 MA/PS Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta February 3-17, Colombia is back after more than a twenty-year absence. Is it safe, you ask? Our answer is an unequivocal Yes! Most of the country is now back to normal and as safe as almost anywhere one can travel in Latin America. A few areas, notably along the frontier with Ecuador, and east of the Andes remain problematic, but we do not visit these areas or areas anywhere near them. Almost all of the areas where we stay are within well-established reserves with relatively new facilities to accommodate visitors. These reserves have never experienced any security problems and the facilities, generally, are quite nice although still small by eco-lodge standards in other Latin American countries. You can be assured that Colombians are very excited to receive foreign visitors, every bit as excited to show their country and its avian riches to us, as we are to offer this trip. Simply put, more species of birds have been recorded in Colombia than anywhere else in the world. Colombia now boasts the largest list, some 1865 species at present. It is a remarkable testimony to the determination of a new generation of young and energetic Colombian students and ornithologists that this list, now a source of considerable national pride, continues to grow and observers continue to travel and work almost throughout the country. Since the publication of Hilty and Brown s landmark Guide to the Birds of Colombia in 1986, which was, incidentally, the last year that we offered a birding tour to Colombia, several species new to science have been described and more than one hundred and sixty species have been added to the country list, and the list continues to increase. We know that for years birders and naturalists have looked longingly at Colombia s ever growing list of birds and of the enticing number of endemics some 70 species found only within it s borders. And, there are many other near-endemics that barely extend beyond Colombia s borders. A number of reserves have now been established to protect these endemic species and our tour route takes maximum advantage of this, staying in key sites, throughout our trip. We will begin near Bogotá with the chance of seeing two or three endemics, the Bogotá Rail, Apolinar s Marsh-Wren and Silvery-throated Spinetail, even before we leave the city. Then, leaving the wide plateau around Bogotá, we ll descend into the Magdalena River Valley and begin our search for others such as the White-mantled Barbet and Sooty Ant-Tanager. Then we ll set sights on the small, newly established Reserva Reinita Cielo Azul located on the western slope of the Eastern Andes. Also known as the Cerulean Warbler reserve, this area provides habitat for North American breeding migrants on their wintering grounds and for several Colombian endemics including the Gorgeted Wood-Quail, Parker s Antbird, Black Inca, Indigo-capped hummingbird, and Turquoise Dacnis among others. We also will visit the bushbird reserve before setting our sights on Santa Marta on Colombia s north coast. This should be our most productive birding site of all. Here, nestled high in the lofty

2 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 2 Santa Marta mountains is the El Dorado reserve, one of the newest in a string of reserves set up and administered by the privately funded ProAves organization, and this reserve is perhaps the crown jewel of them all with nearly twenty species of endemics occurring in the area. Most of these are preceded by the name Santa Marta, so there s a Santa Marta Parakeet, a screech-owl, an antpitta, a bush-tyrant, a wren, a brush-finch, a warbler, and so on and we should be able to see most of them while based here. About this trip. Colombia lags behind other Latin American countries in tourism infrastructure although this is changing rapidly. There are no unusually long or difficult hikes on this trip although it is a fairly physical trip, in part because of frequent moves. Before determining if this trip is the one for you, consider a few issues, among them long travel times (although these drives are generally in a comfortable, air-conditioned bus) between sites, and the fact that many of these drives are on curvy mountain roads. We also will be using 4x4 vehicles at 2 and perhaps 3 sites and this entails riding in jeeps (uncomfortable at best) or Toyota Land Cruisers (much better) on rough, bumpy roads for anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours or more. Because of high rainfall in the Colombian Andes landslides (and hence delays or detours) can be major and on-going issues. Traffic is often heavy, and travel times when moving from site to site often take longer than one anticipates (although occasionally we are pleasantly surprised). Good birding sites are often separated by considerable distance where deforestation or habitat disturbance is extensive but this is not much different than in most other parts of Latin America. Food is generally good and meals large (generally too large and with too much meat for the tastes of most birders) but we have had (with only 1 exception) almost no problems with health issues related to food and water and, in fact, tap water in fine in Bogotá (although we strongly recommend bottled water everywhere else). It you enjoy spicy foods bring you own special hot sauce. Hotel breakfasts are usually light (as usual at pre-dawn hours) but we supplement them and also provide snacks for mid-morning breaks. Birding is on both roads and on trails and one trail (at the ProAves Cerulean Warbler Reserve) is very slippery and treacherous to walk without walking sticks or support (we proceed very slowly). We will use horses (no bucking broncos here) to reach this site but for those that do not wish to ride, or attempt this trail, you have the option of walking (which requires considerable physical stamina) or you may remain around the lodge where there also is good birding. Surprisingly, the horseback ride has been regarded as a high point for many and it is indeed a beautiful ride. You should be in reasonable physical condition to enjoy this trip, able to walk both uphill and downhill for extended periods on roads or trails at elevations ranging from the humid lowlands to cool highlands. Above all, you should bring a sense of adventure to this trip because unexpected detours or other events may necessitate some rearrangement of the itinerary at the last moment. Security is fine in all of the sites that we visit on this trip and, while issues remain in remotes areas, mostly along international borders, this should not be an issue on the present route. Finally, this trip does focus on Colombia s endemic species, some of which also are uncommon, endangered and difficult to find. We won t find them all but we will find some of them and in the process we will see a nice cross-section of Colombia s other Andean birds and wildlife and you will see a wonderful sample of the beauty of Colombia s fabled Andes where all that wonderful coffee is grown and where its beautiful birds occur. ITINERARY: (endemic and near-endemic species noted in boldface)

3 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 3 February 3, Day 1: Arrival in Bogotá. Participants may arrive any time today. Upon arrival you will be met and transferred to our hotel in Bogotá for the night. A bustling city of more than seven million, Bogotá, boasts a spectacular array of pre-colombian gold artifacts at its famous Gold Museum. There s also a spectacular overview of the city from atop the tram that ascends to Cerro de Montserrat and visitors can usually add several interesting hummingbirds there as well. In the past few decades, the city has transformed its internal transportation system with sleek, rapid articulating buses that enter and exit elevated stations and are capable of loading and unloading rapidly. And, in an effort to encourage people to get outside and exercise, on weekends the city closes some boulevards and streets to all motorized traffic so it is not unusual to see thousands of people of all ages out walking, jogging, bicycling, skating and enjoying Bogotá s pleasant climate. The views of the imposing eastern range of the Andes will be spectacular from almost anywhere in the city but Bogotá, at an elevation of 8600 feet, is high enough that visitors may want to rest and relax upon arrival. Nights are cool but not cold. For your local pre-trip activities (both birding and city tours) we recommend Diana Balcázar who is an English-speaking Bogotá native that conducts both birding trips and city tours. You should contact her directly for these arrangements at diana.balcazar@etb.net.co or azulejo500@hotmail.com. For assistance with reservations for early arrivals at hotels and transfers please contact the VENT office. NIGHT: Hotel Dann Norte, Bogotá, dept. Cundinamarca February 4, Day 2: Chingaza National Park. We will begin our trip with a day visit to a large and spectacular high-country park east of Bogotá. Elevations today will range from circa 8,600 feet at Bogotá to as high as 12,000 feet at some mountain passes. This beautiful park serves as a major watershed and water source for the city of Bogotá and, as such, preserves a wonderful cross section of mid- and high-elevation humid forest and also distinctive páramo vegetation, which is found above treeline. The road, in fact, initially enters the open páramo, which is dotted with Espeletia sp. (frailejón), a fuzzy-leaved Asteraceae that is somewhat taller than the grass covering the region. A sampling of species we may encounter, however, include Black-chested Buzzard- Eagle, Tyrian Metaltail, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, White-chinned Thistletail, Pearled Treerunner, Strongbilled Woodcreeper, Tawny Antpitta, Mattoral (Pale-bellied) Tapaculo (E), Ocellated Tapaculo (more often heard than seen), Black-capped Tyrannulet, White-throated and White-banded tyrannulets, Brown-backed Chat- Tyrant, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, Rufous Wren, Great Thrush (common), Superciliaried and Black-capped hemispingus, Scarlet-bellied and Buff-breasted mountain-tanager, Rufous-browed Conebill (E), Blue-backed Conebill, Glossy Flowerpiercer, Slaty, Pale-naped, and Stripe-headed brush-finch, Blackburnian Warbler (northern winter months), Golden-fronted and Black-crested warbler, and Mountain Cacique. The park also provides refuge for the threatened Flame-winged (Brown-breasted) Parakeet (E). Although most of the population of this species occurs at lower elevations and outside of the park we ll be searching for this species as well. Afternoons are often foggy in the park and at this point we ll relocated to lower elevations closer to Bogotá. We should be back in Bogotá by mid- to late afternoon. NIGHT: Hotel Dann Norte, Bogotá, dept. Cundinamarca February 5, Day 3: Morning birding near Bogotá and afternoon descending into the Magdalena Valley. Our activities will include an early morning visit to Parque La Florida, a small municipal park located near the international airport in the Sabana de Bogotá, a broad, flat and high elevation tableland (8,600 ft). A small marsh within this park has continued to support a viable population of two Colombian endemics, the Bogotá Rail (E) and diminutive Apolinar s Marsh-Wren (E), both species which occur only in the general vicinity of the Bogotá savanna and slightly northward. Both species can usually be seen here and the marsh also is a good place to see Spot-flanked Gallinule, Common Moorhen and Pied-billed Grebe. At times, varying numbers of waterfowl including Fulvous, White-faced, and Black-bellied whistling-duck (irregularly present), Blue-winged Teal (northern winter months only), Cinnamon Teal (a resident subspecies but irregular here), Masked Duck, Rufous-browed Conebill (E), and Grassland Yellow-Finch occur here, as does Sora, American Coot, Sparkling Violetear, Brown-bellied Swallow, Great Thrush, Black Flowerpiercer, Yellow-hooded Blackbird, Eastern Meadowlark, and the ubiquitous Rufous-collared Sparrow among others. Occasionally one can spot a pair or two of Subtropical Doraditos in the tall sedges. Sparkling Violetears, Silvery-throated Spinetail (E), and

4 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 4 Yellow-backed Oriole can be found in brushy areas or in tall eucalyptus trees near the lake. From La Florida we will leave straight away for the Magdalena Valley, stopping at two sites en route the first to view a spectacular array of hummingbirds at feeders where another endemic, the Indigo-capped Hummingbird (E), is possible. At the second site, a small wooded lake, yet another endemic is possible, the Spectacled Parrotlet (E) as well as the Bar-crested Antshrike (a near-endemic). Other interesting species here include Black Hawk-Eagle, White-throated Crake, Ash-browed Spinetail (an isolated population), Stripe-breasted Spinetail, White-bellied Antbird, Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Cinereous Becard, Scrub Greenlet, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Graythroated Warbler, Rosy Thrush-Tanager, Golden-hooded and Blue-necked Tanager, Crimson-backed Tanager and more. From here we ll drive straight through (about 3 hours depending upon traffic) to our hotel and may not arrive until dusk or slightly after. NIGHT: Hotel Boutique Casaquinta Vacacional, Mariquita, Magdalena Valley February 6, Day 4: Early start birding on eastern slope of Central Andes near city of Libano; afternoon birding in tropical dry and moist forest along a small tributary of the Río Magdalena. We ll depart from our hotel early (about 04:45 AM) and drive for about an hour up into the lower slopes of the Central Andes for breakfast and delicious fresh-brewed coffee, and then on to remnant forest patches and coffee farms (at ca m) where we ll search for the endemic Tolima Dove (often hard to find) and the endemic Yellow-headed Brush-Finch (generally easier to locate) in patches of remaining forest along steep stream valleys. Other possible species include Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Andean Emerald, Bronzy Inca, Squirrel Cuckoo, Moustached Puffbird, Emerald Toucanet, Azara s Spinetail, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Bar-crested Antshrike, Golden-winged Manakin (Scarce), Golden-faced Tyrannulet, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Mountain Elaenia, Blue-and-white Swallow, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Black-billed Thrush, Whiskered Wren, Rufousnaped Greenlet, Blackburnian Warbler, Canada Warbler, and American Redstart (all common winter migrants from North America), Slate-throated Redstart, Highland Hepatic-Tanager, Crimson-backed Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Golden and Bay-headed tanager, Saffron Finch, Black-winged Saltator, and the ubiquitous Rufouscollared Sparrow. At one site we have occasionally been able to locate a family of Crested Ant-Tanagers, an endemic with spectacular red and gray plumage. This afternoon we ll descend back to the floor of the Magdalena Valley (ca. 550 m) for some birding that should include a large number of species that are relatively easy to see. Among them, we hope, will be one endemic, the Velvet-fronted Euphonia, and with luck, perhaps also the endemic Apical Flycatcher. Other species here include Pearl Kite, Ruddy Ground-Dove, Common Ground-Dove, Yellow-crowned Parrot, Dwarf Cuckoo, White-collared Swift, Short-tailed Swift, Barred Puffbird, Western Slaty-Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren (one of the northern subspecies), Dull-mantled Antbird (scarce here), Jet Antbird, Vermilion Flycatcher, Forktailed Flycatcher (seasonal), Panama Flycatcher (status uncertain here), Scrub Greenlet Tropical Kingbird, Graybreasted Martin, Black-billed and Pale-breasted thrush, Buff-breasted Wren, Rufous-capped Warbler, Buffrumped Warbler, White-eared Conebill, Plain-colored Tanager, Blue-gray and Palm tanagers, Grassland Sparrow, Ruddy-breasted, Gray, and Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Blue-black Grassquit, and much more. NIGHT: Hotel Boutique Casaquinta Vacacional, Mariquita, Magdalena Valley February 7, Day 5 Early morning departure for Reserva Natural Bellavista followed by an afternoon relocation to the Reserva El Refugio Río Claro. We ll have an early start this morning (earlier than usual) in order to reach tiny Bellavista Reserve at dawn. The reserve is small but provides habitat for several key birds including three endemics and several others whose presence here might seem surprising. The endemics include White-mantled Barbet (first discovered new to science in the 1940s), Beautiful Woodpecker, and the lovely Sooty Ant-Tanager. As with many endemics their cooperation is never guaranteed (particularly the woodpecker). More surprising here is the Tody Motmot, which is frequently heard but difficult to see. Other species we might find include Cocoa and Streak-headed woodcreeper, Red-billed Scythebill, Streaked Flycatcher, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Striped Manakin (western form), White-bearded Manakin, Golden-hooded Tanager, Crimson-backed Tanager, Streaked and Buff-throated saltator, and Yellow-bellied Seedeater. By mid-day we should be retracing our route back to the main north-south highway that parallels the Magdalena River. Then,

5 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 5 once we begin driving north we ll cross the river a couple times before turning westward into the Río Claro Valley. We should arrive shortly after noon, leaving enough time to begin birding this rich and interesting area in the afternoon. Although not large, a remarkable number of species have been found here and, yes, several more endemics. NIGHT: Reserva Natural Río Claro (Rio Claro EcoLodge), dept. Antioquia February 8, Day 6: Day at Reserva Natural Río Claro. This small reserve, at an elevation of ca. 800 meters, boasts a surprising number of endemics including the Beautiful Woodpecker, White-mantled Barbet, and Sooty-Ant-Tanager as well as Antioquía Bristle-Tyrant, Colombian Chachalaca (an endemic if split from Speckled Chachalaca). Other species of interest include Black-billed Flycatcher (near endemic), Rufousbrowed Tyrannulet and Blue Cotinga. Fasciated Tiger-Heron is sometimes seen fishing from rocks on the river (Río Claro). Among a long list of other possibilities are Laughing Falcon, Collared Forest-Falcon, Roadside Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle, Yellow-headed Caracara, Plumbeous Pigeon, White-tipped and Gray-chested dove, Common Potoo, Pauraque, Chocó Screech-Owl, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Blueheaded Parrot, Greater Ani, White-collared, Band-rumped and Short-tailed swift, Rufous-breasted Hermit, Long-billed (Western Long-tailed) Hermit, Stripe-throated Hermit, Shining-green, Violet-bellied, and Bluechested hummingbird, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Western Green-backed (formerly White-tailed) Trogon, Gartered (formerly Violaceous) Trogon, Rufous Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Black-breasted and Pied puffbird, White-fronted Nunbird, Collared Aracari, Channel-billed (formerly Citron-throated) Toucan, Blackmandibled Toucan, Cinnamon, Spot-breasted and Lineated woodpecker, Plain Xenops, Buff-throated Foliagegleaner, Plain-brown, Olivaceous, Wedge-billed, Cocoa, Black-striped, Straight-billed, and Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Checker-throated Antwren, Bare-crowned, Chestnut-backed, and Bicolored antbird, Whitebearded Manakin, Brown-capped, Southern-beardless-, Yellow Tyrannulet, Yellow-crowned tyrannulet, Forest and Yellow-bellied elaenia, Southern Bentbill, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Longtailed Tyrant, Great-crested Flycatcher (northern winter), Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Masked and Black-crowned tityra, Rufous Mourner, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Black-bellied Wren (common), White-breasted Wood-Wren, Scaly-breasted (Southern Nightingale-) Wren, Scrub Greenlet, Red-eyed Vireo, Yellow-backed, Gray-headed, Scarlet-browed, White-shouldered, Crimson-backed, Flame-rumped (Lemon-rumped), and Plain-colored tanager, Thick-billed and Fulvous-bellied euphonia, Yellow-tufted (Black-faced) Dacnis, Orange-billed and Black-striped sparrow, Giant Cowbird, Crested Oropendola, and Orange-crowned Oriole among others. NIGHT: Reserva Natural Río Claro (Rio Claro EcoLodge), dept. Antioquia February 9, Day 7: We ll have time for a few hours of birding this morning at Río Claro before beginning the long drive to our next destination, the Reserva Reinita Cielo Azul (Cerulean Warbler Reserve). We will continue northward down the Magdalena Valley, then eastward into the mountains toward Bucaramanga (but we won t go that far), and finally southward to San Vicente de Chucurí and the Serranía de Chucurí. With only a few stops en route, the cooler and refreshing mountain climate will be a welcome change once we reach the reserve. A few roadside stops en route today could produce some aquatic species, namely Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Great and Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Cocoi Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, Wood Stork, Jabiru (unpredictable but groups concentrate more early in year), Northern Screamer (a species shared only with northwestern Venezuela), Roadside Hawk, Pearl Kite, Yellow-headed Caracara, American Kestrel, Large-billed Tern, and Black Skimmer (sometimes on river sandbars). Marshy areas close to the highway may produce Yellow-chinned Spinetail, White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, Pied Water-Tyrant, and White-winged Swallow. Other possibilities include: Spectacled Parrotlet, Orange-chinned Parakeet, Orange-winged Parrot, Pale-breasted Spinetail (voice), Common Tody-Flycatcher (almost any patch of trees), Vermilion Flycatcher, Cattle Tyrant, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Great Kiskadee, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Saffron Finch, Blue-black Grassquit, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, and Shiny Cowbird. For the last thirty minutes of our trip up to the lodge we have to transfer to 4-wheel drive vehicles and it is usually nearly dark before we reach the lodge. NIGHT: Reserva Reinita Cielo Azul, San Vicente de Chucurí, dept. Santander

6 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 6 February 10, Day 8: Reserva Natural Reinita Cielo Azul. This tiny reserve of about 200 hectares takes it namesake from the Spanish name of the Cerulean Warbler (literally Little Sky Blue Queen). The Colombian conservation organization, ProAves, maintains a small lodge on a coffee farm about an hours vigorous walk uphill from the main reserve. There are four new and very nice rooms here, all with private bathrooms. There also are some additional and decidedly less elegant rooms with shared bathrooms in another building. While the reserve was officially designated as a protected wintering site for the Cerulean Warbler (which, ironically, is scarcely found here), many endemic and near endemic birds, as well as numerous others that are poorly known, do occur in this remarkable reserve and in adjacent areas. Some can be seen right around the lodge itself including Indigo-capped Hummingbird (E), and Turquoise Dacnis (E) which is generally not too difficult here but elsewhere very local. Also possible at nearby sites is the Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird (scarce and unpredictable), Niceforo s Wren (E), and Bar-crested Antshrike (near endemic). Most of these occur in coffee and patches of woodland near the lodge, as does the secretive Recurve-billed Bushbird (near endemic) which is present but can be devilish difficult to see here and is best left for our next site. Other species require a trip up into the cloud forest far above and the quickest and easiest way to get up there is by horseback, an option that everyone should consider. This upper reserve forest, which is our main goal, is reached via a long rock trail that winds up through pastureland for a couple kilometers or more, eventually enters the main reserve and its lush cloud forest, and continues beyond for many kilometers. Once in the upper reserve, we ll have an opportunity to search for a number of top-quality species including the rare Gorgeted Wood-Quail (E), Black Inca (an endemic that is everyone s favorite), Moustached Puffbird, White-bellied Antpitta, Parker s Antbird (E), Upper Magdalena Tapaculo (E), Long-tailed Tapaculo, White-crowned Tapaculo (almost too many tapaculos here and they will all try your patience), Yellow-throated Spadebill (another rare and difficult-to-find species), as well as Rufous-naped Greenlet (near endemic), Beryl-spangled and Golden tanager and a few Highland (Scarlet-rumped) Caciques. While this upper forest section of the reserve consists of beautiful cloud forest and is one of those must-see areas, the trail is slippery and treacherous. From the forest entrance this trail, which was built from smooth rounded river stones, climbs steadily and relentlessly upward, and the stones are covered with slick wet moss. It there was ever a place for a walking stick (maybe two of them) and plenty of caution, this is the place. A sizeable list of more widespread species also occur in patches of woodland near the lodge and/or in the upper forest reserve including Barred Forest-Falcon, Wattled Guan (upper forest), Band-tailed Pigeon, Lined Quail- Dove (mainly voice), Tropical Screech-Owl, Rufous-bellied Nighthawk, White-tailed Nightjar, Chestnutcollared and White-tipped swift, Green Hermit, Lazuline Sabrewing, all three violet-ears, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Andean Emerald, Speckled Hummingbird, Violet-crowned Brilliant (upper forest), Long-tailed Sylph, Collared Trogon, Golden-headed Quetzal (upper forest), Olivaceous Piculet, Azara s Spinetail, Spotted Barbtail (upper forest), Montane and Buff-fronted foliage-gleaner (upper forest), Streak-capped Treehunter, Strong-billed and Olive-backed woodcreeper (upper forest), Uniform Antshrike (upper forest), Plain Antvireo, Slaty Antwren, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Golden-winged Manakin, Olive-striped Flycatcher, Ornate and Cinnamon Flycatcher, Blue-and-white Swallow, Bicolored Wren, Whiskered Wren, Andean Solitaire, Yellowlegged and Black-billed Thrush, Green Jay, Yellow-bellied Siskin, Golden-winged, Cerulean, Black-and-white, Blackburnian, Mourning, Canada, Rufous-capped and Three-striped warbler, Common Bush-Tanager, Guira, Golden, Bay-headed, Scrub, Blue-necked, Beryl-spangled, and Black-capped tanager, Blue-winged Mountain- Tanager, Baltimore Oriole, Yellow-backed Oriole, and Russet-backed Oropendola. While birds are generally numerous and remarkably easy to see in the coffee plantations, settled areas and patches of woodland near the lodge, we ve found the birding much more difficult albeit rewarding in the upper forest reserve where there are lots of high-quality but sometimes excessively shy birds that require large doses of patience. NIGHT: Reserva Reinita Cielo Azul, San Vicente de Chucurí, dept. Santander February 11, Day 9: Morning at Reinita Cielo Azul. Afternoon drive northward to city of Ocaña. We should have several hours to bird near the lodge this morning where we will focus on commoner birds as well as a couple endemics (Turquoise Dacnis and Niceforo s Wren) that are usually fairly dependable. We ll depart late morning, stopping for lunch after we leave. We may make a couple of stops at flowering trees or other promising sites en route but most of the afternoon will be devoted to travel as we make our way northward to

7 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 7 the bustling city of Ocaña. Once again, at Ocaña, we ll be up in the mountains, this time not too high but in a rather narrow neck of the Andes. Our drive this afternoon repositions us quite close to the Recurve-billed Bushbird Reserve, a small ProAves property. This reserve was set aside specifically for this species and one of the few areas where there is a reasonable shot at seeing this rare bird. Our hotel is located in downtown Ocaña and is relatively nice but the location can be noisy, so this may be the time to dig into your bag for those earplugs we recommended bringing. NIGHT: Hotel Plaza Real, Ocaña, dept Norte de Santander February 12, Day 10. Morning at Ocaña (Norte de Santander); afternoon drive to Santa Marta area. It is a short drive up to the bushbird reserve and we ll be there at dawn to listen for its distinctive song (assuming it actually is singing). The reserve is steep and laced with a series of interconnecting trails that are well maintained but wander steeply up and down the mountainsides. The habitat here is moderate-stature humid forest dominated by an unusual species of spindly bamboo that stools and forms large and sometimes impenetrable thickets. And, these bamboo thickets are precisely where the bushbirds like to forage, spending their time splitting dry stems with their blade-like bills and searching for insects hidden inside the stems. If the bushbird is not singing we can sometimes hear them foraging. It will take some luck to locate and see this unusual species that was essentially lost to science for almost a half century until relocated some fifteen years ago. Although the diversity of birds here is rather low, there are several other interesting birds around including the Gray-throated Warbler, a species that is surprisingly common here but a bit understated. Its thin, wiry song doesn t help to make it any easier to locate. This also is one of the few places where both Scrub Tanager and Burnish-buff Tanager occur together and it is a good area for Chestnut-bellied Thrush, a species that doesn t turn up on lists very often. There also are several other species of thrushes here. Whether we find the fabled bushbird or not (the odds are no better than 50-50) we ll return to Ocaña by mid-day for lunch and leave shortly thereafter for the drive northward (about 5 hours) the Santa Marta area. This is a long drive but there just seems to be no easier alternative to reach the Caribbean coast so bring along a book or some music to pass the time during the long drive this afternoon. The countryside is interesting, especially as one approaches the Santa Marta area where the vegetation changes to desert scrub. We will by-pass the high-rise beach resorts and hustle and bustle of the Santa Marta/Rodadero and head straight up into the foothills to the village of Minca. Because this afternoon will be rather dry and hot we will likely not make more than a brief stop or two for birding. NIGHT: Hotel Sierra Sound, village of Minca (Santa Marta Mts. foothills), dept. of Magdalena February 13-14, Days El Dorado Reserve in the Santa Marta Mountains. We ll spend some time birding around the hotel this morning before continuing up the road to the El Dorado Lodge. From Minca we ll transfer to 4x4 vehicles for this trip up to the El Dorado Lodge. The narrow road leading up to the lodge and beyond (onto the Cuchillo (knife) de San Lorenzo), is reasonably good at first, but road conditions steadily decline, and eventually you will see why we summoned such rugged vehicles and why it can take so long to travel such a short distance. But, the views from the lodge, and the birdlife on this mountaintop ridge more than compensate. This is, in fact, the crown jewel of the trip, the largest mother lode of endemics, and some of the most inspiring scenery of the trip. We should arrive in El Dorado in time for lunch with the afternoon free to enjoy the hummingbird feeders and begin searching for some of the lower-elevation endemics. The Santa Marta Mountains harbor some twenty species of endemic birds (the number varies with taxonomic considerations), the highest concentration of endemics in such a small area, of any locality in Colombia. Because of the large number of endemic birds, this area is of special interest to birders and naturalists. Most of this imposing mountain range is inaccessible but recently a lovely new lodge, located at about 6500 ft elevation along this road, was built by the ProAves Conservation organization, making this area a birders delight. All but two or three of the endemics can be seen along the road leading up to the lodge and beyond, where the road finally ends at a communication facility at 9600 ft elevation. Situated on the northern slopes of the lofty Santa Marta Mountains, the views from the lodge are simply spectacular, with humid montane forest spreading away in all directions and a view of the Caribbean spread below, even to the city of Barranquilla some sixty miles away. From the upper part of the road it is possible, on clear mornings, to see the snow-capped peaks of the Santa

8 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 8 Marta s which reach to 5775 m (ca. 19,000 ft), making them some of the highest on the continent. The Colombian organization ProAves has purchased forest near the lodge and much of the rest of this area is national park. A few endemics can be seen around the lodge and the remainder occur in the cool damp forests and roadside vegetation either above or below the lodge. Most of the endemics are relatively common and not particularly difficult to locate but a few will try our patience. While the exact number of endemic birds here depends upon the taxonomy of the moment, suffice to say, this area is endemic-rich and includes: Santa Marta Parakeet, Santa Marta Screech-Owl (still not officially described), White-tailed Starfrontlet, Santa Marta Metaltail (proposed split from Tyrian Metaltail), Santa Marta Woodstar (proposed split from Gorgeted Woodstar), Rusty-headed Spinetail, Santa Marta Antpitta, Santa Marta Tapaculo (lower els.), Brownrumped Tapaculo (higher els.), Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant, Santa Marta Wren (split from Mountain Wren), Yellow-crowned Redstart, White-lored Warbler, Santa Marta Warbler, Santa Marta (Blackcheeked) Mountain-Tanager, and Santa Marta Brush-Finch. Two others, the Santa Marta Sabrewing and Black-backed Thornbill occur in remote areas that are inaccessible to us although there are a few recent records of the sabrewing on the northwestern slope suggesting this species may occur here seasonally in small numbers. Some taxonomists also recognize the endemic form of Emerald Toucanet (Santa Marta Toucanet) as well as the local race of the Stripe-headed Brush-Finch (split by some as Colombian Brush-Finch based on its black chest band). The local subspecies of Ruddy-Foliage-gleaner is now separated as Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner. Two additional species, the Streak-capped Spinetail, and Coppery Emerald, are both near-endemics, both having been reported very locally in mountains along the Colombia-Venezuela border. The Santa Marta Mountains remain the only practical place to see either species. Another species, the Blossomcrown, while not endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains, is a Colombian endemic, being found elsewhere only in the state of Tolima. There also are two species of Gray-breasted Wood-Wren here, one at higher elevation and one lower and the differences in their songs are being investigated presently. We should have an opportunity to hear (and perhaps see) both during our stay here. In addition to the endemics, many other species occur in these mountains although, as might be expected from an isolated sky island environment, overall diversity is lower than in the adjacent Andean cordilleras. Other species that occur in the vicinity of the lodge, many represented by endemic subspecies include (endemic subspp marked with asterisk*): White-rumped Hawk, Band-tailed Guan*, Sickle-winged Guan, Black-fronted Wood- Quail, Band-tailed Pigeon, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Red-billed Parrot*, White-tipped Quetzal*, Masked Trogon*, Golden-olive Woodpecker*, Yellow-billed (Groove-billed) Toucanet, Emerald Toucanet, Montane Foliage-gleaner*, Spotted Barbtail*, Streaked Xenops*, Gray-throated Leaftosser*, Strong-billed Woodcreeper*, Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Rufous Antpitta*, Mountain Elaenia, Black-capped Tyrannulet, Venezuelan and White-throated tyrannulet*, Olive-striped Flycatcher*, Black-throated Tody-Tyrant, Cinnamon Flycatcher*, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant*, Golden-breasted Fruiteater*, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren (two endemic subspp., one at high elevation, another lower)*, Orange-billed* and Slaty-backed* nightingale-thrush, Great Thrush*, Black-hooded Thrush*, Slate-throated Redstart*, Three-striped Warbler, White-sided Flowerpiercer, and Blue-naped Chlorophonia. And, there is much more than the birds. At dusk, with the calm Caribbean spread out far below, the docks and the lights of ships visible at sea, and the long narrow isthmus of land stretching far westward toward the distant metropolis of Barranquilla, a peacefulness seems to settle over this site. Maybe a Santa Marta Antpitta calls in the distance, or a hummingbird whirrs close by as it sips a last drop of nectar in the gathering dusk. And then you know why you came. NIGHTS: El Dorado Lodge, Santa Marta Mountains February 15, Day 13: Departing the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and driving northeastward along the coast to the city of Riohacha. This morning we ll begin moving down slope through the coffee zone and toward the little town of Minca, which is located in the foothills. Birds found at lower elevations in the coffee zone and foothills of the Santa Marta Mountains will be the focus of most of our activities this morning. This is a particularly diverse area for birds and by descending through several elevational zones, beginning with our lodge at 6500 feet and eventually ending in arid scrub zone in the foothills, we are likely to amass an impressive

9 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 9 list. A sampling of possible species, mostly from humid middle and lower elevations includes: Black Hawk- Eagle, Crested Bobwhite, Military Macaw (seasonal), Scarlet-fronted and Orange-chinned parakeet, Red-billed Parrot, White-tipped Dove, Lined Quail-Dove (voice), White-collared and Chestnut-collared swift, Blue-fronted Lancebill, Green Violetear, Brown Violetear, Coppery Emerald (near-endemic), White-vented Plumeleteer, Blossomcrown (endemic and difficult to find), Steely-vented Hummingbird, Collared Aracari, Keel-billed Toucan, Golden-olive, Lineated and Crimson-crested woodpecker, Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner (endemic), Black-backed Antshrike, Long-tailed Antbird, Greenish and Forest elaenia, Yellow-olive and Ochre-faced (Yellow-breasted) flycatcher, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Social and Piratic flycatcher, Cinereous, Cinnamon and White-winged becard, Masked Tityra, Rufous-breasted and Rufous-andwhite wren, Yellow-legged, Black-hooded, Pale-breasted, and Black-billed thrush, Black-chested Jay, Goldenfronted Greenlet, Brown-capped Vireo, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush (at least a voice), Red-legged and Purple honeycreeper, Blue Dacnis, Rusty Flowerpiercer, Bay-headed, Black-headed, Black-capped, Blue-gray, Palm, White-lined and Crimson-backed tanager, Streaked and Grayish saltator, Golden-winged Sparrow, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Yellow-backed Oriole, Crested Oropendola and Thick-billed Euphonia. During the northern winter months these foothills harbor a good number of North American breeding migrants including Swainson s Thrush, Yellow-throated Vireo, Tennessee, Golden-winged, Cerulean, Blackburnian, and Blackthroated Green warbler, Rose-breasted Grosbeak and Summer Tanager. We will have lunch en route and continue northeastward along the coast toward Riohacha. If time permits we ll make a brief stop in a low Acacia-dominated desert scrub (not unlike the Chihuahuan desert of southern New Mexico) of Los Flamencos National Park before continuing on to Riohacha for an early dinner and a good night s sleep. NIGHT: Hotel Gimaura, Riohacha, dept. Guajira February 16, Day 14: Morning in desert scrub near Riohacha followed by afternoon drive westward back to Santa Marta. We will spend our morning hours in the desert scrub vegetation indeed among the driest anywhere in Colombia near the town of Riohacha. In this habitat we should add many new species. While the scrub around Santa Marta, with its many large columnar cactus, is more picturesque, the even drier region we ll visit this morning is much more favorable for finding some of the true arid habitat specialties of the Caribbean coast, among them such striking species as White-whiskered Spinetail (one of the prettiest spinetails on the continent) and the lovely Vermilion Cardinal with its long pointed crest. A sampling of desert scrub species here includes: Harris s Hawk, Common Black-Hawk, Pearl Kite, Aplomado Falcon, American Kestrel, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (not as numerous here as it should be), Bare-eyed Pigeon, Common and Ruddy ground-dove, Brown-throated and Blue-crowned parakeet, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Burrowing Owl, Red-billed Emerald, Buffy Hummingbird, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Blue-crowned Motmot, Russet-throated Puffbird, Chestnut Piculet (always a favorite), Red-crowned Woodpecker, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Caribbean (Pale-legged) Hornero, Pale-breasted Spinetail, Black-crested and Black-backed antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Northern Scrub- Flycatcher, Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Slender-billed Tyrannulet, Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Vermilion Flycatcher, Brown-crested and Venezuelan flycatcher, Streaked Flycatcher, Social Flycatcher, Bicolored Wren, Black-chested Jay, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Tropical Mockingbird, Scrub Greenlet, Blue-gray and Glaucous tanager, Tocuyo sparrow, Black-faced Grassquit, Pileated Finch, Grayish, Buffthroated and Orinocan saltator, Saffron Finch, and Yellow Oriole. We should be back in the vicinity of Santa Marta by mid- to late afternoon with time for a brief search for the endemic Chestnut-winged Chachalaca in the evening and some time to relax and enjoy the Caribbean Sea, or just walk along the beach, before the final dinner tonight. NIGHT: Hotel La Sierra, Rodadero, dept. Magdalena February 17, Day 15. Departure for Home. Airport transportation will be arranged for participants to depart Santa Marta (airport code SMR) at any time today.

10 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 10 TOUR SIZE: Limited to 8 participants. TOUR LEADERS: Steve Hilty and local Colombian guide Luis Eduardo Urueña Steve Hilty is the senior author of A Guide to the Birds of Colombia, and the recently published Birds of Venezuela, both by Princeton University Press. Other credits include Birds of Tropical America, A watcher's introduction to behavior, breeding and diversity, which has just been republished by the University of Texas Press. He has also written a number of scientific papers on birds and plants, and is presently preparing the text and species accounts for the tanagers for a forthcoming volume of the acclaimed Handbook of Birds of the World, published by Lynx Press in Barcelona. Steve holds a Ph.D. in zoology from the University of Arizona and has worked at the Arid Lands Department at the University of Arizona, as a consultant to The Nature Conservancy, and as a stockbroker. He is currently a research associate at the University of Kansas Museum of Natural History. Since 1975, he has led tours throughout North and South America, and co-led trips to India, the Orient, and Australasian regions. With three decades of experience in South America and a wide range of natural history interests, he brings a unique breadth of expertise to his Neotropical tours. At night he often turns his binoculars towards the skies for stargazing. Steve lives in Kansas City with his wife, Beverly. They have two daughters recently graduated from college and now working. Luis Eduardo Urueña is a young biologist from Tolima University in the state of Tolima, Colombia. He started his work in ornithology eleven years ago, and was the director of the Blue-billed Curassow conservation program for four years for the ProAves Foundation in Colombia. He and his fiancé, Andrea, also a biologist, are active in various conservation projects. Luis combines excellent field skills with an eagerness to please, and enjoys showing people the birds of his country. Luis and his fiancé also own and operate Manakin Nature Tours, a new company offering high quality birding tours, dedicated to providing services for birders in Colombia. FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: The fee for this tour is $6,895 per person in double occupancy from Bogotá (tour ends in Santa Marta). This includes all meals from breakfast on Day 2 to breakfast on Day 15, accommodations as stated in the itinerary, ground transportation during the tour, and guide services provided by the tour leaders. It does not include airfare from your home to Bogotá (one way) nor your return from Santa Marta back to your home (one way), airport departure taxes, alcoholic beverages, special gratuities, phone calls, laundry, or items of a personal nature. Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration, a small-party supplement may have to be charged. The single supplement for this tour is $275. Because single rooms are not available at the reserves, members of the group will be required to share rooms. Rooms with private bathrooms are generally available but hot water is not always available. TOUR REGISTRATION: To register for this tour, please contact the VENT office. The deposit for this tour is $500 per person. If you prefer to pay your deposit by check, your tour space will be held for 10 days to allow time for the VENT office to receive your deposit and completed registration form. If you prefer to pay your deposit using a credit card, your deposit must be made with MasterCard or Visa at the time of registration. The VENT registration form should then be completed, signed, and returned to the VENT office. Full payment of the tour fee is due 120 days prior to the tour departure date. CANCELLATION POLICY: Cancellation penalties and refunds are based on the following schedule: if cancellation is made 120 days or more before the tour departure date, a cancellation fee of $250 per person will be charged unless the deposit is transferred to a new registration for another VENT tour that will operate within the next 12 months, in which case the cancellation fee will be $100 per person. If cancellation is made fewer than 120 days before departure date, no refund is available. This policy and fee schedule also applies to pre-trip and post-trip extensions. We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation insurance for your protection.

11 Colombia: Bogotá, the Magdalena Valley and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Page 11 If you cancel: Your refund will be: 120 days or more before departure date Your deposit minus $250* Fewer than 120 days before departure date No refund available *Unless the deposit is transferred to a new registration for another VENT tour that will operate within the next 12 months, in which case the cancellation fee will be $100 per person. FUEL AND FUEL SURCHARGES: In the uncertain, often volatile oil market of late, it is difficult if not impossible to predict fuel costs over the long term, and more specifically, at the time of operation of this departure. Our prices are based upon the prevailing fuel rates at the time of itinerary publication. While we will do everything possible to maintain our prices, if the fuel rates increase significantly, it may be necessary to institute a fuel surcharge. EXCHANGE RATE SURCHARGES: In the erratic global financial markets of today, it is difficult to predict foreign currency exchange rates over the long term or at the time of operation of a tour or cruise departure. Tour prices are based upon the rate of exchange at the time of itinerary publication. If exchange rates change drastically, it may be necessary to implement a surcharge. If a surcharge is necessary, every effort will be made to minimize the amount. In many cases, these additional foreign exchange rate surcharges are passed to VENT by its vendors and suppliers. TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: Application forms for optional coverage for baggage, illness, and trip cancellation can be obtained through the VENT office. We strongly recommend that you purchase trip cancellation insurance to protect yourself against losses due to accidents or illness. Check with your insurance agent regarding coverage you may presently have via other insurance policies that may cover illness during your trip. Waiver for pre-existing conditions is available, however, stipulations apply, usually requiring the purchase of the insurance soon after registering. Contact the VENT office prior to registration for details. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours is not a participant in the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund. California law requires certain sellers of travel to have a trust account or bond. This business has a bond issued by Travelers in the amount of $50,000. CST # AIR INFORMATION: Victor Emanuel Travel is a full-service travel agency and wholly owned subsidiary of VENT. Victor Emanuel Travel will be happy to assist you in making air arrangements. Airline tickets carry restrictions due to the airfare used. You may find that your ticket cannot be reissued or exchanged for another air carrier or routing. Cancellation penalties and change fees may be assessed for any changes to the ticket. These charges are solely your responsibility. First- and business-class travel is available on some flights. All requests for travel assistance (air tickets, additional hotels, etc.) must be received no later than 60 days prior to departure date. Within 60 days, arrangements must be made on your own. Trip Classification: This may be regarded as physically a fairly vigorous trip (more so than many other VENT trips) with some uphill walking on steep to very steep trails that may be muddy and slippery trails and have uneven footing. Some of the walking is in hot and humid conditions in the lowlands, Andes at mid-elevations or high but most of the trip is at pleasant mid-elevations of about 2500 to 6600 feet (ca m); one day we will reach 12,000 feet (ca m) elevation. To reach the base of the main forest trail at the Reinita Cielo Azul Lodge, horses will be available and we encourage all members to ride horses for the approximately minute steep uphill ride to the trail entrance as the walk, on foot can be quite exhausting for those unaccustomed to vigorous physical uphill walking at an elevation of over 1600 m (5000 feet). Thereafter, we will access the main trail on foot. This main trail (a pre-colombian Amerindian trail) also is moderately steep in places, and constructed almost entirely of smooth rounded rocks which provide uneven and often very slippery conditions that require good balance and considerable stamina to negotiate. It is, however, the only access (on this trip) to the habitat of several endemic species including the rare Gorgeted Wood-Quail; Parker s Antbird; Upper Magdalena Tapaculo; Black Inca. Visitors may also encounter some steep uphill walking conditions in the Santa Marta Mountains.