COLOMBIA: THE CENTRAL & WESTERN ANDES HUMMINGBIRDS, ANTPITTAS, TANAGERS, & ANDEAN ENDEMICS

Transcription

1 COLOMBIA: THE CENTRAL & WESTERN ANDES HUMMINGBIRDS, ANTPITTAS, TANAGERS, & ANDEAN ENDEMICS JUNE 7-22, Colombia is often referred to as the ultimate birding destination, the holy grail for birders. There are two reasons for this; one being that more birds have been recorded in Colombia than in any other country on the planet, and the second being that, for two decades, civil unrest has made visiting remote areas within the country almost impossible. During that time, birders have looked longingly at the illustrations in the 836 page Birds of Colombia, (often referred to as the bible for Colombian birds), and longed for the chance to see some of these remarkable birds. And now that opportunity has arrived. Colombia has changed dramatically in the past few years and birders worldwide are now flocking to this beautiful country in hopes of getting a look at some of the approximately seventy endemic species found here. Colombia s diverse topography is indeed inspiring with soaring mountains, snow-capped volcanoes, cloud-filled valleys, savannas and rainforests and its magnificent birdlife ranging from tiny hummingbirds (there are more than 160 species!) to gaudy parrots, toucans, fruitcrows and an almost unbelievable palate of colorful tanagers. This trip concentrates on endemics, as well as hummingbirds, antpittas and tanagers, which are a hallmark of mid-elevations in the Andes. As an added bonus, one site now has three antpitta feeding stations where up to four species of antpittas come regularly and others occasionally. Another site offers an excellent possibility of seeing the rare Cauca Guan, a species once feared extinct. This area also boasts one of the highest known concentrations of Red-ruffed Fruitcrows, a species that is typically scarce and hard to find elsewhere. At another site, which has some of the most beautiful cloud forest in Colombia, our focus will be on rare Bangia tanagers (Gold-ringed and Black-and-gold) and other endemics. At three sites we will be searching for rare parrots and parakeets including the endemic Rufous-fronted Parakeet, near endemic Yellow-eared Parrot, and locally distributed Rusty-faced Parrot. Finally, there will be hummingbird feeders at five of the ten major areas we visit, which is sure to produce a remarkable list of hummingbirds. At all sites we should have the opportunity to see plenty of other exciting highland birds. About this trip: Colombia lags behind other Latin American countries in tourism infrastructure but we re happy to report that this is changing rapidly. Also, Colombia s extremely mountainous terrain and heavy rainfall complicate tour planning. Not surprisingly, landslides are frequent, although blocked roads are usually opened promptly. There also is on-going road construction almost everywhere and construction delays can thwart even the best-laid plans, so persons contemplating this trip should understand that minor itinerary changes might be necessary. However, most sites on this trip are in cooler highland regions where temperatures are pleasant, and even in the Cauca Valley, where temperatures are warmer, it is not likely to be excessively humid. On this tour most walking is

2 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 2 relatively easy and downhill as much as possible. However, one or two sites may require some slowpaced uphill walking on a relatively narrow road, where there is little or no traffic. At the Montezuma site (Cerro Tatamá National Park) in the Western Andes, walking distances will be longer, perhaps up to about five miles, although mostly downhill, but on a rough road that is fairly steep. Some participants may wish to use a walking stick here. In the past we have been able to use a jeep at Montezuma to reach the top of the mountain but the road is in disrepair (especially as of June 2014) and it is possible that we may have to use horses (or mules) or walk up the final portion of the road if we wish to reach the top where, of course, several interesting birds occur. In general our birding at all sites will be along roadsides or on jeep tracks. We expect to use wellmaintained but relatively short forest trails only at a couple of sites. Most mornings we will be up well before dawn for early breakfasts (or coffee/tea and snacks to be followed by field breakfasts later). At two sites we will begin our birding right around our hotel or lodge. At other sites, travel time to reach our birding destinations will vary from as little as thirty minutes to about an hour and a half, and at one site it may take two hours to reach our birding site but it is well worth the time. Most betweenlocation travel will be in a comfortable bus and when we travel we will be doing just that traveling, with little opportunity to stop for birding. At two (or possibly three) sites we will use 4x4 s mostly old Jeeps or Willys that harken from earlier decades to reach our birding destinations. Before determining if this trip is a proper match for you, please consider the following issues: There are some moderately long travel times between sites (up to three to five hours) which are mostly in a comfortable, air-conditioned bus, but most drives are on curvy mountain roads and it may seem as if there are no straight roads at all in Colombia. We also will be using 4x4 vehicles (jeeps) at some sites (Cerro Tatamá National Park; Jardín; Las Tangaras) where roads are often muddy, bumpy and poorly maintained. These back roads can also be dusty at times. Because of high rainfall in the Colombian Andes, landslides (and hence delays or detours) can be major and on-going issues. Truck traffic is particularly heavy on some mountain roads and is often complicated by extensive road construction. Consequently, moving from site to site almost always takes longer than one anticipates, although occasionally we are pleasantly surprised. In some areas good birding sites are separated by considerable distance from where we have to stay because of deforestation or habitat disturbance. Food is generally good and meals generous, although often too large and with large portions of meat, but we have had relatively few problems with health issues related to food and water. However, we recommend that you use bottled water everywhere. If you enjoy spicy food, bring your own hot sauce. Hotel breakfasts are usually light (as usual in pre-dawn hours), but we supplement them and also provide snacks for mid-morning breaks. You should be in reasonably good physical condition to enjoy this trip and be able to walk both uphill and downhill for extended periods on roads or trails at elevations of 400-9,000 feet or higher. On most days we will be able to return to a lodge, or at least a restaurant, for a mid-day meal, but on a few days we will, of necessity, be out all day on foot. Above all, you should bring a sense of adventure to this trip because unexpected detours or other events may necessitate some last minute rearrangement of the itinerary. Single rooms cannot be guaranteed at three sites where the number of rooms is limited, so some sharing (doubles) may be necessary.

3 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 3 Security is fine in all of the sites that we will visit and, while security issues remain in remote areas (mostly along international borders), this should not be an issue on the present route. Finally, this trip will focus on Colombia s endemic and near-endemic species, especially those of the Chocó-Pacific region. Some of these species are uncommon, endangered and difficult to find although a few are relatively easy to see. We won t find them all, but we will find as many as we can, and in the process, we will see a splendid cross-section of Colombia s Andean birds and wildlife. You also will see a wonderful sample of the beauty of Colombia s fabled Andes, where all their delicious coffee is grown and where so many beautiful birds occur. NOTE: In the itinerary that follows, endemic bird species (and some near-endemics) are noted in boldface type. June 7, Day 1: Arrival in Cali. Participants may arrive at the Alfonso Bonilla Aragón (Palmaseca) International Airport (airport code CLO) at any time today. Upon arrival you will be met and transferred to the Hotel Guadalajara in Buga about minutes away. Buga is a relatively small and quiet town and the hotel is quite comfortable, perhaps more typical of an earlier, more relaxed era. Those who wish to arrive a day early to rest will also be met and transferred to Buga. Alternatively, participants may wish to arrive first in Bogotá, Colombia s bustling capital city of more than seven million. With its signature red-tile roofed buildings and mountains all around, many past participants have opted to arrive early and spend a day or two here before beginning our tours, and the short flight from Bogotá to Cali is only about 30 minutes. There are many activities in Bogotá including the Botero Museum, the stunning Gold Museum, which boasts an exquisite array of pre-colombian gold artifacts in beautiful displays, numerous striking cathedrals, and nearby birding at sites such as Monserrate and the El Dorado Marshes, both within the city limits. The views of the imposing eastern range of the Andes will be spectacular from almost anywhere in the city. For birding or sightseeing activities in Bogotá, or for longer day trips in the Bogotá area, we recommend you go with a local guide. Diana Balcázar, an English-speaking Bogotá native, conducts both birding trips and city tours here and is highly recommended. You should contact her directly for these arrangements at diana.balcazar@etb.net.co or azulejo500@hotmail.com. Upon request, VENT will be happy to assist with hotel reservations for early arrivals. NIGHT: Hotel Guadalajara, Buga, dept. Valle del Cauca June 8, Day 2: Early Morning Visit to Laguna de Sonso in the Cauca Valley and Near Buga. We ll depart the hotel as early as possible this morning for the short trip to Laguna de Sonso, an old oxbow lake formed from the Cauca River. The reserve of about 600 hectares is close to the city of Buga. Almost all of the natural vegetation of the valley has been replaced with agricultural crops including sugar cane, rice, and cotton so the Sonso area is one of the few sites where some natural habitat remains. It is a large and important wetland and also has fairly extensive woodland and plantation-like habitat. Overall the area provides an excellent introduction to birdlife of rural farmland and lighter, drier woodland in southwestern Colombia and we should find quite an array of birds in short order. A sample of species here includes Black-bellied and Fulvous whistling-duck; Horned Screamer (the only population west of the Andes); Spotted Rail (scarce or difficult to see); Dark-billed Cuckoo; Striped Cuckoo; Dwarf Cuckoo; Little Cuckoo; Spectacled Parrotlet (near endemic and abundant); Black-throated Mango; Steely-vented and Rufous-tailed hummingbird; Common (Gray) Potoo; Limpkin; Purple Gallinule; Common (Moorhen) Gallinule; Wattled Jacana; Snail Kite; Northern Crested Caracara; Yellow-headed Caracara; numerous egrets and herons; Bare-faced, Glossy, and Green ibis; Grayish Piculet (endemic); Red-crowned, Spot-breasted and Lineated woodpecker; Jet Antbird; Common and Slateheaded tody-flycatcher; Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet; Sooty-headed Tyrannulet; Mouse-colored Tyrannulet; Pied Water-Tyrant; Rusty-margined Flycatcher; Apical Flycatcher (endemic); Fork-tailed Flycatcher; Cinereous Becard; Barred Antshrike; Pale-breasted Spinetail; Black-billed Thrush; Guira Tanager (scarce);

4 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 4 Thick-billed Euphonia; Ruddy-breasted, Gray, and Yellow-bellied seedeater; Saffron Finch; Yellow Oriole; and Red-breasted Blackbird. More recently Red-capped Cardinals (an exotic from Brazil and Argentina) have been found here (doubtless escaped cagebirds). We also may stop at a nearby site in the foothills of the Western Andes if road conditions improve (road construction will likely be finished by 2015). Known as Bosque Yotoco, the area lies at about 4,300 feet (1,200-1,400 m) elevation and the forest is humid, but a little too dry to be classified as cloud forest. For such a small reserve, a number of interesting and range-restricted species have been reported here, although virtually all of them can be found elsewhere. Regardless of our route, we should arrive at our lovely and very comfortable country hotel (ca. 6,100 ft or 1,850 m) sometime mid-afternoon or a little later, with time for late evening birding. Temperatures here are usually cool and pleasant. NIGHT: Hotel El Faro del 18, near El 18, dept. Valle del Cauca June 9, Day 3: Early Morning Departure for a Full Day Trip into the Río Anchicayá Valley with Birding Stops Beginning Along the Lower Portion of the Road. Once regarded as one of the top birding roads in the world, this area has not been much visited by birders for nearly two decades. With security no longer an issue, birders are returning to this exciting area. We ll depart quite early because it is a fairly long drive to the lower portion of the road. We ll do most of our birding between ca. 350 and 550 m elevation, where we ll be especially vigilant for Chocó-Pacific species. A sampling of species here (many of which are Chocó-Pacific endemics) could include Barred Hawk; Blue-headed, Mealy and Rose-faced parrot; White-whiskered Hermit; Rufous-breasted Hermit; Blue-chested and Purple-chested hummingbird; Green Thorntail; Purple-crowned Fairy; Lanceolated Monklet (fairly common here); Chocó Trogon; Chocó Toucan; Chestnut-mandibled Toucan; Spot-crowned Barbet (common); Broad-billed Motmot; Chestnut-backed and Immaculate antbird; Sulphurrumped Flycatcher; Pacific Flatbill; Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant; Lemon-browed Flycatcher; Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher; Cinnamon Becard; Southern Rough-winged and White-thighed swallow; Slate-throated Gnatcatcher (scarce); Bay Wren; Golden-bellied (Chocó) Warbler; Orange-billed Sparrow; Tawny-crested, Dusky-faced, Golden-chested, Scarlet-browed and Scarlet-and-white tanager; and Black-winged Saltator. This also is an excellent area for many small Tangara tanagers, including Blue-necked, Golden-hooded, Rufouswinged, Bay-headed, Blue-whiskered, Silver-throated, Rufous-throated Emerald, and even Gray-and-gold tanager. Other species include Pied Puffbird, Long-tailed Tyrant, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Yellow-collared Chlorophonia, Ochre-breasted Tanager, Yellow-spectacled Tanager (uncommon), Russet-backed Oropendola, and Scarlet-rumped Cacique among many more. We ll return to the El 18 area tonight. NIGHT: Hotel El Faro del 18, near El 18, dept. Valle del Cauca June 10, Day 4: Cloud Forests Along Crest of Western Andes. We plan to spend the morning in the vicinity of our hotel and in nearby highland sites where there are good opportunities to see the much-sought Multicolored Tanager (endemic) as well as many other species. We also will have access to hummingbird feeders at a nearby house where several species of hummingbirds are sure to be present and some are so habituated to the presence of humans that they will alight on one s fingers to sip nectar. Examples of species in this area include Gray Tinamou (most likely only a voice), Chestnut Wood-Quail (endemic and likely another voice), Colombian Chachalaca, (endemic), Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Barred Parakeet (seasonal), Red-headed Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Uniform Antshrike, Montane Woodcreeper, Red-faced Spinetail, Spotted Barbtail, Rusty-winged Barbtail (scarce), Streak-capped Treehunter, Streaked Xenops, Nariño Tapaculo, Greenand-black Fruiteater, Marble-faced and Variegated bristle-tyrant, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Andean Solitaire (beautiful song), Three-striped Warbler (common), Rusty Flowerpiercer, and Orange-bellied Euphonia. Colorful Tangara tanagers are apt to dominate whenever we encounter mixed species flocks and likely species include Saffron-crowned, Golden-naped, Metallic-green (near endemic), Goldennaped, Golden, Bay-headed, Black-capped, and Beryl-spangled as well as Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager and Dusky Bush-Tanager. Hummingbirds are star attractions at feeders and we may spend some time at a site where the hummingbird show should be good. Some of the species possible in this area are White-necked Jacobin,

5 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 5 Green Violetear, Brown Violetear, Black-throated Mango, Blue-headed Sapphire (seasonal), Booted Racket-tail, Speckled Hummingbird, Andean Emerald, Bronzy Inca, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Buff-tailed Coronet, Longtailed Sylph, and Purple-throated Woodstar. We ve also seen Golden-headed Quetzal and Emerald Toucanet here. After an early lunch we ll pack up and drive through the arid upper Dagua Valley. This dry, rain-shadow portion of the Río Dagua is important for bird distributions. Here the vegetation changes dramatically, from humid forest at higher elevations to desert scrub within just a few kilometers. This happens because the valley makes an abrupt bend to the south and intervening high mountain ridges block the flow of warm, moist (east-flowing) Pacific coast air from reaching the valley, which is lower in elevation and hotter than the ridges above. Consequently the cooled air passing over the ridges warms as it descends into the upper Dagua Valley and rarely reaches a temperature cool enough to cause precipitation. This local climatic system has persisted for thousands of years and a distinctive flora and fauna now occupies this unusual valley, which is flanked, at higher elevations, both to the west and the east by cloud forest. Time permitting, we ll stop briefly and may be able to add a few arid-country species; among possibilities are Common Ground-Dove (very common), Barred Antshrike, Bar-crested Antshrike (near-endemic), Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Bran-colored Flycatcher, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Vermilion Flycatcher (common), Apical Flycatcher (endemic), Ultramarine Grosbeak, Streaked Saltator, Scrub Tanager and possibly Grayish Piculet (endemic). It s still a long drive northward to Pueblo Rico and the Montezuma Lodge, located within Tatamá National Park, so even if we stop, it won t be for long. Our route this afternoon will take us northward along the lovely Cauca Valley (broad near Cali but eventually narrowing northward) and then up the eastern flank of the Western Andes through the small towns of La Virginia and Apía to Pueblo Rico. Beyond Pueblo Rico, for the last hour of the trip, the road we take is narrow and poorly maintained and 4-wheel drive vehicles will be needed. It will likely be late afternoon before we reach the lodge. The lodging is basic essentially a small country house with shared bathroom facilities (there are now four bathrooms available including a couple with hot water) and the facility has been recently remodeled and updated. The rooms are very clean, the food excellent and the owner (a recently widowed woman with five daughters) is extremely gracious and eager to please. We feel lucky to have located this site because, although the lodging facilities are small, the birding opportunities here are spectacular and we believe the birding far outweighs a few inconveniences. The main birding road begins at the lodge at ca. 4,600 feet elevation (ca. 1,400 m) and hummingbird feeders and fruit feeders attract many birds right around the lodge building. The climate here is pleasant but decidedly humid as this region receives high rainfall (close to 4,000 mm) spread fairly evenly through the year. We should arrive just before dusk. NIGHT: Montezuma Lodge, Reserva Natural Cerro Montezuma, dept. Risaralda June 11-12, Days 5-6: Reserva Natural Cerro Montezuma and Tatamá National Park. This small reserve (designed as such by the local community) lies adjacent to Cerro Tatamá National Park and much of our birding will be within Cerro Tatamá National Park itself. The park figures large in the history of Colombian ornithology because it was an early and important collecting site, with a long list of Chocó-Pacific birds first known from this area. This is a rainy region lying on the cusp of the famous super-wet Chocó-Pacific region, although mornings tend to be clear even here. On the first day, weather permitting, we ll leave very early by vehicle for the approximately one hour (or a bit more) drive up to the end of the road where we will begin our birding activities. The road has deteriorated considerably in recent years and if we are unable to use a vehicle to gain the upper elevations of Cerro Montezuma, we may have to turn to horses (if available), or simply walk to reach higher elevation (ca m). Also bear in mind that horses and mules here are small and may be unable to accommodate persons in excess of about 220 to 230 pounds. Regardless of the method of transportation used, getting to the top is sure to be an adventure, and there will certainly be birds along the way. We also will devote time on the second day to lower and middle elevations of the reserve at ca. 1,350-1,650 m. And at the lodge itself, we will be quite close to beautiful wet, mossy forest and hummingbird feeders as our guest house usually attracts several interesting species including White-tailed Hillstar, Velvet-purple Coronet

6 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 6 and even Empress Brilliant. The list of birds in these upper and lower zones is almost a complete list of montane Chocó-Pacific species, including many that have been seen by only a small number of birders previously. Among them are two endemic Bangsia tanagers, the Black-and-gold Tanager and Gold-ringed Tanager. At the very highest elevations the endemic Munchique Wood-Wren also has been reported (a species first discovered in southwestern Colombia by Hilty in the late 1970s but not described until 2003) as well as the endemic Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer, a species heretofore known from only a handful of high elevation sites in the Western Andes. Weather and logistics permitting, we will try to reach the mountaintop where we have a good chance to see these rare species as well as others. The recently described Chocó Vireo (near endemic) also has been found along this road but is scarce and local. A sample of species that occur close to where we will stay and higher include: Barred Hawk, Chestnut Wood-Quail (endemic), Sickle-winged Guan, Blue-fronted Parrotlet, Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl, Western Emerald, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Brown Inca (fairly common seasonally), White-tailed Hillstar (rivers), Empress Brilliant (near endemic), Greenish Puffleg, Velvet-purple Coronet (near endemic), Violet-tailed Sylph, Purple-throated Woodstar, Crested and Goldenheaded quetzal, Black-billed Mountain-Toucan, Fulvous-dotted Treerunner (near endemic), Lineated Foliagegleaner, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Uniform Treehunter, Streak-capped Treehunter, Plain Antvireo, Bicolored Antvireo (local), the still undescribed Alto Pisones (name not confirmed), Tapaculo (likely also endemic), Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant, Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant, Smoky Bush-Tyrant, Andean Cock-ofthe-rock, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Orange-breasted Fruiteater (near endemic), Golden-breasted Fruiteater, Scaled Fruiteater, Olivaceous Piha, Club-winged Manakin, Beautiful Jay (scarce, near endemic), Black Solitaire (near endemic), Glistening-green Tanager (near endemic), Multicolored Tanager (endemic), Indigo Flowerpiercer (near endemic), Golden Tanager, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, Silverthroated Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, Scrub Tanager, Blue-necked Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Berylspangled Tanager, Flame-faced Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager (this is an astonishing 11 species of Tangara found here!), Blue-winged and Black-chinned mountain-tanager, Dusky Bush-Tanager, Yellow-throated Bush- Tanager, Crested Ant-Tanager (endemic and surprisingly common here), Tricolored Brush-Finch, Blackwinged Saltator, Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia, and Thick-billed and Orange-bellied euphonia. This also may be one of the best places to see the remarkable Club-winged Manakin (dance/wing display video available on YouTube), a species we have seen on most of our visits here. NIGHTS: Montezuma Lodge, Reserva Natural Cerro Montezuma, dept. Risaralda June 13, Day 7: Tatamá National Park to the City of Pereira. We will have the morning to continue birding the lower elevations of this area. Following an early lunch we will depart by 4x4 vehicle back to Pueblo Rico where we will continue by bus to the city of Pereira and then onward a short distance to the Otún-Quimbaya Reserve. We should arrive a little before dusk. NIGHT: La Suiza Lodge, Otún-Quimbaya Sanctuary, dept. Risaralda June 14, Day 8: Morning at Otún-Quimbaya Sanctuary; Short Afternoon Drive to Manizales. We will have a morning to enjoy this pleasant area, which is composed primarily of second growth and plantation forests, much of which is Chinese Ash as well as various conifers. Our focus here will be on two or three endemic species, in particular the Cauca Guan, Chestnut Wood-Quail and, if we have not already seen it, the Crested Ant-Tanager, and the Red-ruffed Fruitcrow, which for reasons not entirely clear, is more common here than anywhere else in its extensive range. The Cauca Guan, once feared extinct, is common here and usually easy to see. The wood-quail also is relatively common but not so easy to see, although occasionally we spot them crossing the main road. The ant-tanager is confined to sites along the river and is of lower priority because it is easier to see at the Montezuma site. The endemic Multicolored Tanager also occurs here but we have not had good success in finding it. Stile s Tapaculo, yet another endemic, also is present but other sites later in the trip offer much better and more convenient opportunities to search for it. After dark, Common Pauraque and Tropical Screech-Owl call around the lodge buildings and can often be seen without too much difficulty. Other species nearby include Great Antshrike, Whiskered Wren, Flame-rumped Tanager (here with scarlet rump), Highland Hepatic-Tanager, and Golden-rumped Euphonia, as well as Black

7 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 7 Phoebe. On the river, Torrent Tyrannulet and Torrent Duck can both be found although the ducks may require some time to locate. The best accessible primary forest is via a trail immediately behind the lodge buildings. Species that occur here, or along the main road, include Tawny-bellied Hermit, Greenish Puffleg, Booted Racket-tail, Collared Inca, Golden-headed Quetzal, Blue-crowned (formerly Highland) Motmot, Red-ruffed Fruitcrow (we could easily see a dozen or more), Moustached Puffbird, Azara s Spinetail, Streak-capped Treehunter, Slaty Antwren, and Green (Inca) Jay. Mixed species flocks may contain Masked Trogon, Streaked Xenops, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Marble-faced and Variegated bristle-tyrant, Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet, Pale-edged Flycatcher, Andean Solitaire, Golden-fronted Redstart, Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Masked Flowerpiercer, Black-winged Saltator, and various Tangara tanagers including Golden, Metallic-green (scarce), Beryl-spangled, Saffron-crowned, and Black-capped. With only a morning here we will focus on endemic and near-endemic species and perhaps try for one or more reclusive species such as the Chestnut-breasted Wren (common but usually the devil to see), Pale-eyed Thrush, or Russet-crowned Warbler. Moustached Antpitta also occurs here but we seldom see it close to trails. On about half of our visits we ve also found Colombian Screech-Owl in these forests. We are certainly unlikely to see all of these species mentioned here, but we should be able to find a good number of them even during our short stay, and we are confident you will enjoy this pleasant area with its delightful spring-like temperatures. By early afternoon we ll return to Pereira (about minutes away) and then drive northward to Manizales, about an hour away, for a three-night stay. Manizales lies at ca. 1,500 m elevation and also has a pleasant spring-like temperature. NIGHT: Hotel Varuna, Manizales, dept. Caldas June 15, Day 9: Río Blanco Reserve. This splendid reserve, located less than thirty minutes from the city of Manizales, is owned by Aguas de Manizales, a municipal water company. A guest house and other visitor facilities are operated by the Fundación Gabriel Arango Restrepo (FUNDEGAR). The area features several excellent forest trails with good mixed species flocks, well-attended hummingbird feeders and, more recently, several remarkable antpitta feeding sites where Chestnut-crowned Antpitta and Brown-banded Antpitta are regular visitors, and Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Bicolored Antpitta and Slate-colored Antpitta also are likely. On previous visits we ve seen four of these five species although we ve yet to see all five in a single morning. Other species that regularly visit the antpitta feeding sites (it is not just antpittas that like worms) include Ash-colored Tapaculo, Gray-browed Brush-Finch (formerly Stripe-headed Brush-Finch) and Green-and-black Fruiteater (no kidding!). Other species also have turned up periodically at these feeding sites, making them exciting and mustdo destinations during a visit to this reserve. The reserve protects forest over a wide elevation range from 2,000 to 3,400 m (circa 6,600-11,200 ft.) and is regarded as one of the top birding spots in the central Andes of Colombia. We ll be spending most of our time at mid-elevations (2,400-2,600 m). Endemics, however, are only a small part of the appeal of this reserve as many rare and other infrequently-seen species also occur here including Rusty-faced Parrot, Golden-plumed Parakeet, Black-collared Jay, Powerful Woodpecker, Black-billed Mountain-Toucan, Moustached Antpitta (rare), Ocellated Tapaculo (occasionally visits the antpitta feeding stations), Black-billed Peppershrike, Golden-faced Redstart, Plushcap, and two prized species, the Red-hooded Tanager and Masked Saltator. These last two are local in distribution and much sought by birders. The saltator is perhaps more easily seen here than anywhere else in its range but even here there are days when it is quiet and unresponsive and cannot be found. Other species, including a few that occur in low density, include Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Montane and Lineated foliage-gleaner, Rusty-winged Barbtail, Pearled Treerunner, Dusky Piha, Oleaginous Hemispingus, Grass-green and White-capped tanager, Buffbreasted Mountain-Tanager, and (Northern) Mountain-Cacique. Buff-tailed Coronets dominate the hummingbird feeders, but over ten species of hummers are regular attendees here including Green Violetear, Sparkling Violetear, Speckled Hummingbird, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Mountain Velvetbreast (seasonal), Bronzy Inca, Collared Inca, Tourmaline Sunangel, Long-tailed Sylph, and occasionally White-bellied Woodstar. If not at the feeders, some may be found in flowering shrubs in the garden around the main building. Patches of bamboo, especially at higher elevations, are frequented by Black-capped Tyrannulet; Sharp s Wren; Citrine Warbler; Black-capped, Oleaginous, Superciliaried, and Black-eared hemispingus, Plushcap, and Yellow-billed

8 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 8 Cacique. Trails inside the forest harbor numerous skulking species for patient observers including Ocellated, Blackish, and Spillman s tapaculos. NIGHT: Hotel Varuna, Manizales, dept. Caldas June 16, Day 10: Nevado del Ruiz, Los Nevados National Park. This exciting area is about an hour and a half from the city of Manizales and offers access to some of the most easily accessible páramo (a tropical alpine grassland above tree line) vegetation anywhere in Colombia. The Nevado del Ruiz, at 5,429 m (17,788 ft), is the northernmost volcano in the Andes and is glacier-covered but still active (although not since ca. 1985). We plan to reach elevations of about 4,050 m (13,200 ft), the highest of the tour today, and most of the day will be spent between about 3,400-4,050 m. At such elevations, temperatures can be cold, especially during the early hours of the morning (although it is remarkably pleasant some mornings). We will go as far as the national park entrance as all the key high elevation specialists of the low, damp elfin woodland mixed with páramo can be found here. Among them are the delightful little Buffy Helmetcrest (formerly known as Bearded Helmetcrest before a fourway split), Stout-billed Cinclodes, Tawny Antpitta, Andean Tit-Spinetail, White-chinned Thistletail, Brownbacked Chat-Tyrant, Páramo Tapaculo, Sedge Wren, Plain-colored Seedeater and Plumbeous Sierra-Finch. All of these species usually can be found relatively easily along the last kilometer of road leading to the national park entrance. If the morning is clear and warm, there is a good chance of seeing an Andean Condor here as well. At slightly lower elevations, and in grassy areas, we ll also be searching for the Many-colored Canastero (a strikingly colorful race here). Fog often determines the course of our activities on this mountain, but in general we ll continue birding downward in elevation through patches of montane forest, searching for such species as Viridian Metaltail, Shining Sunbeam, Mountain Avocetbill (scarce), Golden-breasted Puffleg, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Sword-billed Hummingbird (also scarce and seasonal), Tyrian Metaltail (generally common), Andean Pygmy-Owl, White-throated and White-banded tyrannulet, Scarletbellied Mountain-Tanager (often quite common), Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager, Lacrimose Mountain- Tanager, Blue-backed Conebill, Glossy Flowerpiercer and Páramo Seedeater. The endemic and highly localized Rufous-fronted Parakeet occurs in this area but is erratic or unpredictable (we re three for five here so the odds are only slightly better than even). A small lake, Laguna Negra, sometimes harbors Andean Teal and Ruddy Duck (Andean form with all or mostly black head). Two other much-prized species in this area are Golden-crowned Tanager and Black-backed Bush-Tanager, and both usually require patience and some luck to find. Late afternoon should find us back in Manizales for a much-needed rest after our busy and exhausting day at these ultra-high elevations. NIGHT: Hotel Varuna, Manizales, dept. Caldas June 17, Day 11: Mountain Forest Near Manizales. We will begin our day in a valley leading up to the slopes of the Nevado del Ruiz. The road is narrow so we ll probably leave our bus near the lower end of the road and continue slowly upward on foot for part of the morning before returning for lunch. Weather permitting (and weather is always a factor in these high elevation regions), we could amass a nice list of species today. This region is similar in elevation to the Río Blanco forest we visited yesterday and contains many of the same species so provides a nice opportunity to search for species we might have missed yesterday, or to see some of them again. In particular, we ll be looking for a few birds that occur above the elevations we visited yesterday. Among them are Scaly-naped Parrot, Viridian Metaltail, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Golden-headed Quetzal, Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Bar-bellied and Yellow-vented woodpecker, Whitebrowed Spinetail, Streaked Xenops, Montane Woodcreeper, Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Undulated and Slatecrowned antpitta (both most likely only voices), Ocellated Tapaculo (another voice), Streak-throated Bush- Tyrant, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Barred Becard, Black-collared Jay, Sharp s Wren, Rufous-crested Tanager, Black-headed Hemispingus, Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Plushcap, and Pale-naped Brush-Finch. This region is relatively little explored by birders and we would not be surprised if, during the morning, there is a surprise or two in store for us. We will use almost all of our afternoon to reach our next destination, a lower elevation site in the Western Andes, although if time permits, we ll make one brief stop along the Río Cauca where a few drier

9 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 9 country species might be seen, among them Barred Antshrike, Bar-crested Antshrike, Grayish Piculet and Apical Flycatcher. NIGHT: Las Tangaras Reserve, El Carmen, dept of Chocó June 18, Day 12: Full Day at the Las Tangaras Reserve. This is one of the newer reserves acquired by the Colombian Conservation Organization ProAves in their quest to set aside and manage key properties that preserve bird diversity in Colombia. The reserve is located on the western slope of the Western Andes and most of our birding will be at elevations similar to those of the lower zone at Montezuma, about 750 to 1,300 m elevation. This is, without question, a fabulous zone for tanager diversity. The reserve is about thirty minutes from the lodge where we stay and 4x4 vehicles will likely be required to reach the reserve. Some key species here include Toucan Barbet, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager, Black-and-gold Tanager (endemic), Purplishmantled Tanager, and Rufous-throated and Glistening-green tanager. A sampling of other species includes Scaly-naped Parrot, Buffy Tuftedcheek, Yellow-breasted Antwren, Ochre-breasted Antpitta (hard to find), Chocó Tapaculo, Rufous-browed Tyrannulet, Handsome Flycatcher, Club-winged Manakin, Sooty-headed and Chestnut-breasted wren, Crested Ant-Tanager (endemic), Dusky Bush-Tanager, Olive Finch, and Tricolored Brush-Finch. Hummingbird feeders in the reserve attract an array of spectacular hummers including Empress Brilliant, Velvet-purple Coronet, Violet-tailed Sylph and even Brown Inca. This reserve also harbors such rarities as Yellow-green Bush-Tanager (known from only a few localities) and other Chocó-Pacific endemics such as Chocó Vireo (near endemic), Black Solitaire (near endemic), White-headed Wren, Beautiful Jay, Fulvous-dotted Treerunner, Orange-breasted Fruiteater (near endemic), Gold-ringed Tanager (endemic) and the lovely Yellow-collared Chlorophonia. With only a day and a half here, we will concentrate on searching for species that we might have missed at the Tatamá/Montezuma site, as well as just enjoying the beautiful mossy forest. NIGHT: Las Tangaras Reserve, El Carmen, dept. Chocó June 19, Day 13: Morning at Las Tangaras; Afternoon Drive to the Picturesque City of Jardín, Located on the Eastern Slope of the Western Andes. We ll make the most of our morning here at Las Tangaras before departing for the relatively short drive (compared to some others) to the city of Jardín (which means garden in Spanish). The city takes pride in its hundreds of hanging flowerpots, brightly painted buildings, beautiful cathedral at the center of the plaza, and relaxed atmosphere. With a near perfect climate, large numbers of people gather at tables and chairs around the plaza in the evenings to talk and enjoy the night air, and perhaps also to watch the Peruvian Paso horses strutting around the square, all in a setting that is uniquely Colombia. We ll try to have at least one meal at a restaurant on the square where it will be possible for everyone to enjoy the remarkable ambiance of this beautiful town, which has now gained considerable fame as a vacation destination. NIGHT: Hotel Hacienda Balandú, Jardín, dept. Antioquia June 20, Day 14: Reserva Natural Loro Orejiamarillo (Yellow-eared Parrot Reserve). This morning we ll depart quite early for the approximately one-hour trip via 4-wheel drive vehicles to this small but important reserve owned by the ProAves conservation organization. Established in 2006, this reserve of circa 300 hectares (741 acres) protects one of Colombia s rarest birds, the critically endangered Yellow-eared Parrot (a near endemic species and one unlikely to be seen outside of Colombia). In most areas this species utilizes tall, highelevation wax palms (Ceroxylon spp.) for roosting and for nest holes although it has recently been found in one site without these palms. A combination of deforestation and palm cutting has deprived this species of most of its natural habitat and critical nest hole sites. Once common and widespread in the Colombian Andes, the population plummeted to perhaps a few hundred individuals. The establishment of protected reserves, public education programs and the construction of artificial nest boxes by dedicated conservationists have helped to reestablish this species in several areas; the present population has climbed to an estimated 750-1,000 birds and recently a heretofore unknown population has been discovered in the Eastern Andes. Although formerly found

10 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 10 in south to central Ecuador, the species no longer occurs in that country and now survives only in isolated sites in Colombia. The steep landscape surrounding Jardín and en route to the reserve is a mixture of pasture land and patches of forest. The parrots some 350, which represent a significant portion of the world s population, are found in this area, and often range widely over reserve forest as well as surrounding semi-open areas, sometimes even to much lower elevation and close to the city of Jardín. While our goal will be to see these parrots, some 250 species of birds have been recorded in this area including the Red-bellied Grackle (E) and Munchique Wood- Wren (E). A sample of species found here includes Emerald Toucanet, Black-billed Mountain-Toucan, Acorn Woodpecker (same species as in North America), White-browed Spinetail, Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Chestnutcrowned Antpitta, Spillman s Tapaculo, Ocellated Tapaculo, Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Chestnut-crested Cotinga (always scarce and local), Golden-faced Redstart, Citrine Warbler, Golden-crowned and White-capped tanager, and Tanager-Finch. Mixed species flocks in the reserve forest contain a variety of interesting furnariids, flycatchers, warblers and tanagers. Hummingbird feeders maintained near the reserve generally attract an interesting mix of species including, at least seasonally, Mountain Velvetbreast, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Tourmaline Sunangel, White-bellied Woodstar, Buff-tailed Coronet, Sparkling Violetear, and Green Violetear among others. At some point we will pay a visit to a group of Andean Cock-of-the-rocks that display in a canyon just a few blocks from the central plaza in Jardín. If time permits, we will visit this area late this afternoon. NIGHT: Hotel Hacienda Balandú, Jardín, dept. Antioquia June 21, Day 15: Early Morning Near Jardín and Late Morning in Lower Cauca Valley Near Bolombolo; Afternoon Drive to Medellín. Depending upon weather and our success yesterday, we may return to the reserve early this morning, or spend a few hours in areas in or near the city of Jardín before departing for Medellín. We also plan a birding stop in dry forest and scrub en route to Medellín to search for species typical of this lower, warmer zone including Spectacled Parrotlet (near endemic), Steely-vented Hummingbird, Rufoustailed Hummingbird, Whooping Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Moustached Puffbird, Olivaceous Piculet, Grayish Piculet (endemic), Red-crowned Woodpecker, Barred Antshrike, Bar-crested Antshrike (near endemic), White-fringed Antwren, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Apical Flycatcher (endemic), Brown-crested Flycatcher, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Black-tailed Flycatcher, Rusty-margined Flycatcher, Rufous-naped Greenlet (near endemic), White-breasted Wood-Wren, Long-billed Gnatwren, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Rufous-capped Warbler, Blue Dacnis, Guira Tanager, Crimson-backed Tanager, Scrub Tanager (near endemic), Streaked Saltator, Black-striped Sparrow, Thick-billed Euphonia, and Yellow-bellied Seedeater. We also have the possibility of seeing the newly described Antioquia Wren, an endemic species that looks (and sounds) remarkably similar to the more widespread Rufous-and-white Wren but appears to be genetically distinct. From here we will continue on to Medellín, a trip of about two hours. NIGHT: Hotel Portón Medellín, Medellín, dept. Antioquia June 22, Day 16: Morning in Park in Medellín; Afternoon Departure for Home. We ll visit a small and quiet park within the city limits of Medellín this morning where two much-sought endemics occur, the Redbellied Grackle and Yellow-headed Manakin, and a third less charismatic endemic, the Stiles Tapaculo, also occurs. Unfortunately, the Stiles Tapaculo looks quite similar to almost every other species in its genus there are now some 35 species in the genus so seeing it is much less informative than hearing its distinctive voice, but we ll try to find it just the same. This also is a good place to observe many commoner mid-elevation birds including a good variety of tanagers, thrushes, wrens and species typical of forest borders and second growth woodland. A sample of species here includes Western Emerald, Blue-crowned Motmot, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Azara s Spinetail, Spotted Barbtail, Bar-crested Antshrike (near endemic), Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, Blackish Tapaculo, Golden-faced Tyrannulet, Pale-edged Flycatcher, Brown-capped Vireo, Rufousnaped Greenlet, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush, Three-striped Warbler, Common Bush-Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Scrub Tanager, Metallic-green Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Rusty Flowerpiercer, White-naped Brush-Finch, Yellow-backed Oriole, and Orange-bellied Euphonia. Typical

11 Colombia: The Central & Western Andes, Page 11 North American migrants only present during northern winter include Swainson s Thrush, Tennessee and Blackburnian warbler, American Redstart, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, and Summer Tanager. We ll leave for the airport in time for flights departing after 3:00 p.m. TOUR SIZE: This tour will be limited to 8 participants. TOUR LEADERS: Steve Hilty and Louis Eduardo Urueña Steve Hilty is the senior author of A Guide to the Birds of Colombia, and author of Birds of Venezuela, both by Princeton University Press, as well as the popular Birds of Tropical America, A watcher's introduction to behavior, breeding and diversity. He has also written a number of scientific papers on birds and plants, has described two species of birds new to science in Venezuela, and another, with a team of scientists, in Colombia. He also wrote the text and species accounts for the tanager family for the acclaimed Handbook of Birds of the World, published by Lynx Press in Barcelona. Steve holds a Ph.D. in zoology from the University of Arizona and has worked at the Arid Lands Department at the University of Arizona, as a consultant to The Nature Conservancy, and as a broker with Merrill Lynch. He is currently a research associate in ornithology at the University of Kansas Biodiversity Institute. Since 1983 he has worked for Victor Emanuel Nature Tours, guiding trips throughout North and South America, and co-leading trips to India, the Orient, and Australasian regions. With four decades of experience in South America and a wide range of natural history interests, he brings a unique breadth of expertise to his Neotropical tours. At night he often turns his binoculars towards the skies for stargazing. Steve lives in Kansas City with his wife, Beverly. They have two daughters. Luis Eduardo Urueña is a young biologist from Tolima University in the state of Tolima, Colombia. He started his work in ornithology eleven years ago, and was the director of the Blue-billed Curassow conservation program for four years for the ProAves Foundation in Colombia. He and his wife Andrea, also a biologist, are active in various conservation projects. Luis combines excellent field skills with an eagerness to please, and enjoys showing people the birds of his country. Luis and Andrea also own and operate Manakin Nature Tours, a company offering high quality birding tours, dedicated to providing services for birders in Colombia. FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: The fee for the tour is $6,595 per person in double occupancy from Cali (tour ends in Medellín). This includes all meals from breakfast on Day 2 to breakfast on Day 16, accommodations as stated in the itinerary, ground transportation during the tour, gratuities, and guide services provided by the tour leaders. It does not include airfare from your home to Cali and return from Medellín, alcoholic beverages, special gratuities, phone calls, laundry, or items of a personal nature. Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration, a small-party supplement may be charged. The single supplement for this tour is $500. You will be charged a single supplement if you desire single accommodations, or if you prefer to share but have no roommate and we cannot provide one for you. Single rooms cannot be guaranteed at the eco-lodges at Montezuma Reserve, Otún-Quimbaya National Park, and Tangaras Reserve, and this is taken into account for the single supplement. REGISTRATION & DEPOSIT: To register for this tour, please contact the VENT office. The initial deposit for this tour is $500 per person. If you would like to pay your initial deposit by check, money order, or bank transfer, your tour space will be held for 10 days to allow time for the VENT office to receive your deposit and completed registration form. If you prefer to pay the initial deposit using a credit card, your deposit must be made with MasterCard or Visa at the time of registration. The VENT registration form (available from the VENT office or by download at should then be completed, signed, and returned to the VENT office. PAYMENTS: Initial tour deposits may be made by MasterCard, Visa, check, money order, or bank transfer. All other tour payments, including second deposits, interim payments, final balances, special arrangements, etc.,