Madagascar. Land of the Lemur Tue 23 rd Oct Sun 4 th Nov Limosa Holidays Trip Report

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1 Limosa Holidays Trip Report Madagascar Land of the Lemur Tue 23 rd Oct Sun 4 th Nov 2012 (Trip photos, clockwise from top left): Parson s Chameleon the World s largest The turaco-like Blue Coua hops in the forest canopy Our group was fortunate to enjoy great views of two elusive Fossa, Madagascar s top predator Another special endemic, the shy Short-legged Ground-roller The beautiful and rare Diademed Sifaka at Andasibe The superb Crossley s Vanga is seldom seen well all photos Callan Cohen & Deirdre Vrancken, except Fossa Alastair Kilpin report compiled by tour leaders: Alastair Kilpin, Callan Cohen & Deirdre Vrancken 1 Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ tel: +44 (0) / 4 info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 Trip Diary Tour Leaders: Callan Cohen, Deirdre Vrancken and Alastair Kilpin with Bob & Joanne Kowalczyk, Andy & Sue Mendus, Pam Phillipson, Sue Reeks, and Mick & Chris Tunnicliffe Madagascar is not touted as the eighth continent for nothing, and this year's trip here yielded all the endemic families and subfamilies of Madagascar and a host of endemics that included the spectacular Pitta-like Ground Roller, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Long-tailed Ground Roller, Subdesert Mesite, Crossley s Vanga and more. Perhaps even more exciting was a rare find indeed a pair of Madagascar s elusive top predators, Fossa, mating in the canopy of the rainforest, that we watched for over half an hour! Add to this the charismatic lemurs and bizarre chameleons, and it was quite a trip. Read on for the details Day 1-23 rd Oct 2012 Fog delayed the group's scheduled Air France departure from London to Paris and travellers bound for Madagascar were rebooked on to the South African Airways evening flight to Johannesburg, with onward connection the Madagascan capital, Antananarivo ('Tana' for short), the following day. Day 2-24 th Oct 2012 Having arrived ahead of the group's flight from London, our 'land only' participants set off after Tana s morning rush-hour to explore the haven of nearby Lac Alarobia. Here, an array of waterbirds and garden birds that simply have nowhere else to live in the overcrowded and densely cultivated city find sanctuary. This fact sees them gather here in great numbers, most notably the herons and egrets. A few short hours here and the birding and photography was well underway: Red-billed Teal and White-faced Duck dominated the water in the hundreds and we had to search hard for the more elusive Hottentot Teal and a solitary Comb Duck. Western Cattle, white-morph Dimorphic and Great White Egrets were in full breeding swing so the heronry was noisy. We had ample opportunity to photograph the Black Herons and masses of Squacco Herons, and to scan for the now endangered Malagasy Pond Heron. The obvious blue bill, bright pink legs and exotic white plumes finally gave one bird away, allowing for good comparisons with the common Squacco. It was also amazing to see hundreds of Night Herons, a bird not normally seen in such big numbers. Here, our good birding was interrupted by some massive Golden Orb Spiders, a few fish, geckos and an odd sighting of the enormous Oustalet s Chameleon. A Malagasy Kestrel flew overhead a few times with a small lizard as its prey, presumably provisioning a nest nearby - we saw both the dark phase and spotted pale phase birds in the area. This was not the only raptor as first Yellow-billed Kite and then very excitingly a sub-adult Malagasy Harrier made an appearance hunting over the small wetland. It was also a good day to get to grips with many of the more common Madagascar birds, as we saw Madagascar Fody, Malagasy White-eye, Madagascar Bee-eater, Madagascar Bulbul, Malagasy Turtle Dove, Madagascar Wagtail, the busy Malagasy Brush Warbler and Madagascar Swamp Warbler in fairly quick succession. The beautiful Malagasy Kingfisher put in a show to distract us and some people saw the tricky Whitethroated Rail at the same spot. A few tiny Madagascar Mannikins showed briefly and we had our first views of the large and vocal Malagasy Coucal. The other bird to mention is the Mascarene Martin, which we saw at the Lake, all along the city and also at the airport, where we collected the rest of our group this afternoon before heading east to the exciting forests of Andasibe and Mantadia. Sadly, heavy forest fires in the area brought dusk an hour early, so we arrived in the dark - but did hear the Madagascar Nightjar (as we would on most nights on the tour). Day 3-25 th Oct 2012 Dawn on our first full day in the wild couldn t come soon enough as we woke to the incessant sound of Madagascar Lesser Cuckoo and the whale-like wails of the biggest living lemur, the Indri. We had a smart pair of Madagascar Magpie-Robin in the garden around breakfast the first of many sightings 2 Limosa Holidays

3 of this engaging and vocal species throughout the island. Our first stop around the entrance to Andasibe produced a flurry of birds with both Malagasy Coucal and Wagtail and our first sighting of Madagascar Starling a frequently elusive forest starling. Close by, our guides showed us the white chick of a Madagascar Long-eared Owl, but despite some noisy Crested Drongo activity, we could not locate the adults. Madagascar Blue Pigeon made a showing as did the turaco-like Blue Coua what a bird! Further along we were treated to a pair of Madagascar Cuckoo-rollers foraging quite low down in a Eucalyptus stand probably one of the trip highlight birds snapped up on the first forest day; fantastic! Here we also had the common Souimanga (French for sunbird!) Sunbird, Madagascar Stonechat and Chabert s Vanga. The approach road to Mantadia delivered Forest Fody, Madagascar Bee-eater and Madagascar Buzzard being mobbed by Malagasy Kestrel. It is difficult to describe in a few paragraphs what transpired in the next few hours. We crept into the forest and had one top sighting following another species that we thought we d have to wait days for and others we thought we would never see! A smart and diminutive Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher was first up; then as we responded to some bird calls we got distracted by another loud and strange call. After some searching, we spotted not one, but two Fossa on a bough high in the forest canopy! As we spent the next hour standing still and manoeuvring quietly, we witnessed the predator preening and mating behind the leaves! All the while, around us Madagascar Buzzard, Lesser Vasa Parrot and Indri called. To see this elusive carnivore so well so quickly on this trip when many have never seen Fossa, was undoubtedly a special moment. Tearing ourselves away, we spotted a Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher on its nest before coming face to face with the retiring forest Collared Nightjar and all the while the Indri called. Suddenly, and unexpectedly, we managed to see the Indri what a moment! Common and Dark Newtonia flitted about as we watched the Indri sit quietly above us. After having our fill and thinking about going for a lunch break, we were interrupted by another of the island s most beautiful and sadly endangered lemurs in the form of four Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs. They jumped in the branches and some saw them come down to drink at the river! We even saw a female Velvet Asity before our rather late lunch, when a Greater Vasa Parrot came over as we ate. A short birding stop en route home delivered a brilliant Short-horned Chameleon and a nice bird party. This held Malagasy Green Sunbird, Green Jery, Chabert s Vanga, Madagascar Starling and Ward s Flycatcher (which is in fact a vanga!). In all the above we have not even mentioned the fantastic butterflies, flowers and lush forest vegetation that we enjoyed during our first forest day! Day 4 26 th Oct 2012 We headed back to the fantastic Mantadia forest this time finding a Red-billed Teal and male Velvet Asity feeding at eye level. Common Brown Lemurs and Madagascar Cuckooshrike appeared before we started on the trails again. The first (non-bird) sighting was another lemur in the form of Redbellied Lemur. Target birds for the day were the endemic ground-rollers and after a little searching got our first: the stunning Pitta-like Ground Roller. We continued to walk the trails, adding more Blue Coua, Short-billed Tetrakas feeding begging fledglings and Ward s Flycatcher before finding two evasive Scaly Ground Rollers, which took a while to show well. During our lunch-break on the edge of the forest, Great Vasa Parrot, Broad-billed Roller and Blue Coua all showed up. Then the raptors arrived; in quick succession we enjoyed passing Peregrine and Madagascar Harrier Hawk. After lunch, a little lake was a real gem as it produced the declining Meller s Duck and Madagascar Grebe, but after all this activity what could top it? Well, the late afternoon was the time for watching the incredible Short-legged Ground-roller sit trogon-like on a branch for ages as we got to study it in every detail! We listened to Madagascar Flufftails, photographed Giraffe-necked Weevil and enjoyed our first decent sighting of the noisy Madagascar Lesser Cuckoo before making our way back to our lodge after another sensory overload. 3 Limosa Holidays

4 Day 5 27 th Oct 2012 We spent this day in the more accessible Andasibe forest, but were not disappointed by the quality of birds and other creatures. We started by viewing the strange Crossley s Vanga on the forest floor, then in the same place with a very similar call we got to see the very different White-throated Rail and a chick in a small marsh. All the while, the background music was played for us by Blue Coua and Indri! At the main bridge we had Striped-throated Jery and Rand s Warbler, and a Madagascar Ground Boa was pointed out to us. The very loud Madagascar Wood Rail would not show, but we saw other things like the green Lineated Day Gecko, a superb white male Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher and Long-billed Bernieria (Greenbul). Soon afterwards our local guides found one of the bizarre little leaf-chameleons Brookesia superciliaris, Cuckoo-roller called above the canopy and we finally got to see the world s largest chameleon Parson s Chameleon what a sight! Next was a phenomenal Indri sighting as a group moved and fed close to us a trip highlight for most of us I am sure. A bright-orange juvenile Parson s Chameleon and a few more birds led us to an endearing group of three Eastern Woolly Lemur before the thunderstorm brought the rain! After getting wet for a while, the rain cleared and as always delivered some great sightings the loud call of the endemic frog Platypeltis grandis boomed from the tree hollows and we were treated to watching a family of Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemurs cross the main bridge. The world s largest spider web was spun across the river (by a type of endemic bark spider) and we saw Blue Emperor dragonfly and a large, emerald-flashing damselfly there too. Back at the entrance we got to photograph lots of rain-emerged Pandanus frogs and a smart Short-horned Chameleon. We later regrouped for a night walk and were lucky to find a few nice things in the form of three chameleon species, Crossley s Dwarf Lemur and Goodman s Mouse Lemur. Rainforest Scops Owl was heard to end another great day. Day 6-28th Oct 2012 The morning started well as we finally got views of a typically swift-moving Madagascar Flufftail not far from the lodge. We then birded Andasibe again for the whole morning and despite walking similar routes, saw a whole host of different things. In the first bird party, Red-tailed Vanga showed well as did Green Jery and Rand s Warbler. We finally found Nelicourvi Weaver, a super White-throated Oxylabes, Ward s Flycatcher again and a viewable Malagasy Brush Warbler. Two Broad-billed Rollers displayed over the forest and the Indri called incessantly. Our first small bird party revealed the stunning Blue Vanga and we found the Red-fronted Coua by its aggressive ratchet-like call. In the next flock, the star attraction was Nuthatch Vanga, which showed briefly amongst the Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Common Jery, Tylas (heard only) and Long-billed Bernieria; a group of Common Brown Lemur appeared and allowed for good viewing too. The best moment on the mammal front was saved for last as we viewed a family of the large Diademed Sifakas resting and feeding, and then we came across a patterned Lowland Streaked Tenrec. We had to travel back to Tana today in readiness for tomorrow's flight to the Southwest. We made one stop to find a Madagascar Pratincole perched on a rock in the river and roadside birding delivered more Madagascar Stonechats, Olive Bee-eaters and even a Red-fronted Coua on the mountain pass. Day 7-29 th Oct 2012 This was mainly a travel day, so we made the most of the time and revisited Lac Alarobia. Obviously many similar species were seen, but we did get better viewing of Madagascar Mannikin, a Common Jery, Moorhen and a few viewable Malagasy Pond Herons. We flew southwest to Toliara and headed quickly north to Ifaty; en route we ticked off Kittlitz s and Ringed Plovers from the car as well as a few waders, Namaqua Dove and flocks of Madagascar Fody. The setting on the ocean behind the distant barrier reef was special as was seeing our first Madagascar Nightjars, which hawked around the bungalows. 4 Limosa Holidays

5 Day 8 30 th Oct 2012 This was to be a big day, one that many had been waiting for: we were to take a trip into a section of the spiny forest, Madagascar s weird arid woodland. Before leaving the lodge we had Sakalava Weavers at their baobab nests and a large Grey-headed Lovebird flock congregating to drink near a water tank. The dusty, morning ride to the forest was a real highlight! Souimanga Sunbird probed the orange Chadsia flowers and quickly we located the target Long-tailed Ground Rollers very smart indeed birds with their blue flashes. There was a steady stream of fantastic endemics as we encountered the liquid-calling Archbold s Newtonia, amazing Sickle-billed Vanga, Subdesert Brush and Thamnornis Warblers in quick succession. Views of Chabert s Vanga and then a male Lafresnaye s Vanga on a nest were overshadowed by the chance to observe a male Subdesert Mesite in a tree. This bird stood stock still as the sentinel as we watched it watching us, so effective that we did not see the rest of the family. We were pleased to have finally found a member of one of Madagascar s most sought-after endemic families. The next highlight was spending time watching a pair of Banded Kestrels at their nest - atop a Sakalava Weaver colony. Another Lafresnaye s Vanga appeared here too and some flushed a Madagascar Nightjar. A few more raptors in the form of Malagasy Kestrel and Madagascar Harrier Hawk overhead finally had us making our way back in the morning heat. Crested Drongos nesting, Lesser Vasa Parrot and Running Coua rounded off the morning along with smart Madagascar Giant Swallowtail butterfly. The lodge provided respite from the midday heat as well good birds at the water tank plus a few on the beach like Whimbrel and Grey Plover, while Namaqua Doves came to drink at the fresh water seeps! Our afternoon walk in some spiny desert scrub produced Madagascar Magpie Robin, Olive Bee-eater, Madagascar Green Sunbird and the highlight of a Madagascar Nightjar and chick flushed and viewed superbly in the sand. Sunset on the Indian Ocean was spectacular as always. Around dinner we spotted Grey-brown Mouse Lemur and Malagasy Kingfisher with our spotlights. Day 9 31 st Oct 2012 Departure day provided a few quick reviews of the lodge birds as well as Malagasy Black Swift and Madagascar Spinetail overhead, before we made our way south in search of the very localised Madagascar Plover. At one of the salt marshes we found two birds nice and close and got our first proper views of Madagascar Lark as well. We spent some good time scanning the mangrove estuary for a variety of species and had good success despite no Humblot s Heron (this bird s numbers appear to be dropping). Madagascar Cisticola displayed and were seen nest-building in the sisal plants below us, not far from the shoreline, and we heard Madagascar Swamp Warbler. The shorebirds present were Turnstone, White-fronted Plover, Ringed Plover, Sanderling, Grey Plover, Common Sandpiper, Grey Heron, three Caspian Terns and Terek Sandpiper. Further south, we also had Little Stint, Black-winged Stilt and a Little Grebe. That was the end of the day s birding as we had to detour via Tana before moving on to Toliagnaro the following day. Day 10 1 st Nov 2012 After flying south over the coastal forest and up over the Andohahela Mountains, we began the drive to Berenty on a rather long, pot-holed and bridge-broken road! We did not have much time for stopping, but we managed Comb duck, Malagasy Kingfisher, large White-faced Duck flocks, Hamerkop and the full suite of herons en route. A brief stop as we left the mountains produced calls of two different couas and we saw Alpine Swift ahead of a massive thunderstorm. The countryside was beautiful and filled with fruit trees until we were far enough west to be back in spiny desert. At dusk a Madagascar Buttonquail flushed from the road, Crested Coua was spotted on its nest and we got our first glimpse of the enigmatic Maki or Ring-tailed Lemur. A night walk before dinner was superb as we had great sightings of White-browed Hawk Owl, Torotoroka Scops Owl, White-footed Sportive Lemur, more chameleons and a roosting Broad-billed Roller! Going to bed to the sound of the owls was a real treat as we prepared for our last big fun day in Madagascar. 5 Limosa Holidays

6 Day 11 2 nd Nov 2012 An early morning forest walk netted us great daylight views of the White-browed Hawk Owl, plus Red-fronted Brown Lemur and a Giant Coua before we entered the real gallery forest. Inside, we had a few sightings of the colourful Broad-billed Rollers and also managed to find Madagascar Green Pigeon. Near the very noisy Madagascar Flying Fox roost were also lots of Yellow-billed Kite, Common Jery, Common Newtonia and Lesser Vasa Parrot. White-headed Vanga was seen for the first time as we constantly picked up new species: the introduced Helmeted Guineafowl from Africa, Crested Coua and what appeared to be no less than four adult Frances s Sparrowhawk that were vocal and flying around, some being mobbed by Crested Drongo. A real highlight was watching the Verreaux s Sifakas sunning themselves and feeding on the abundant Rinorea fruits. The Red-fronted Brown Lemurs relished the fruiting tamarinds as we had a number of great sightings on our way back to the lodge for breakfast. A post-breakfast walk into the open sisal lands was good despite the building heat and we found a smart pair of Madagascar Sandgrouse as well as the Madagascar Cisticola and Lark again. Three-eyed Lizard, the Globe Skimmer dragonfly and a host of butterflies (like the striking blue Rhadama s Commodore) completed the walk. We met again in the late afternoon for a trip into a patch of spiny forest. A fantastic Hook-billed Vanga carrying its gecko prey appeared right at the lodge before we departed one of the vangas we had not yet seen. The three or four sightings of Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs curled up in the Euphorbia trees were fun, but more White-footed Sportive Lemurs and a big group of Ring-tailed Lemurs made for a good final lemur afternoon. Bird-wise we had a Torotoroka Scops-owl roosting and after a good effort on the trails eventually a good sighting of the Green-capped Coua. Sadly, it was then departure time, a journey back to Fort Dauphin for the night, made quite eventful by the ongoing roadworks. Day 12 3 rd Nov 2012 An early start had us back at the airport, the wait being pretty normal - that is until the missing Humblot s Heron was finally spotted from the departure lounge as it flew down the runway! A splendid way to finish a typically eventful tour to Madagascar. We arrived back in Tana for lunch then headed to the hotel to rest and relax before dinner and late evening check-in for flights home. Day 13 4 th Nov 2012 Air France early morning departure from Tana, with arrival back in London the same afternoon. Alastair Kilpin, Callan Cohen and Deirdre Vrancken ANNOTATED LIST OF BIRDS RECORDED Bird names follow the IOC list (total of 135 species recorded by the group) Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Seen Berenty White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Seen near Ifaty and LA (=Lac Alarobia) Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Seen LA (=Lac Alarobia) Meller's Duck Anas melleri Pair at Mantadia Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Seen LA (=Lac Alarobia) Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Seen LA (=Lac Alarobia) Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Seen south of Ifaty 6 Limosa Holidays

7 Madagascar Grebe Tachybaptus pelzelnii Seen well at Mantadia Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Small numbers in many places; common LA Striated Heron Butorides striata Seen LA, Andasibe & roadsides Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Seen in rice paddies around Tana; very common LA Malagasy Pond Heron Ardeola idae At least 3 seen at LA Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Small numbers generally but common Berenty and LA Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Five in mangrove lagoon Ifaty Humblot's Heron Ardea humbloti Single at Fort Dauphin airport! Purple Heron Ardea purpurea In Mantadia forest & en route Berenty! Great Egret Ardea alba Common around Tana in the paddies Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca LA, Tana paddies, Fort Dauphin Dimorphic Egret Egretta dimorpha Common LA & other wetlands Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Roadside ex Tana and Berenty Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius Common esp. Berenty Malagasy Harrier Circus macrosceles Seen day 1 at LA Madagascar Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides radiatus Seen Mantadia & Ifaty Frances's Sparrowhawk Accipiter francesiae Seen well at Berenty Madagascar Buzzard Buteo brachypterus Regular Andasibe, Ifaty Malagasy Kestrel Falco newtoni Common throughout the island, with pale and dark forms Banded Kestrel Falco zoniventris Pair at nest Ifaty Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Mantadia Subdesert Mesite Monias benschi Great views at Ifaty Madagascar Flufftail Sarothrura insularis Heard many, seen Andasibe White-throated Rail Dryolimnas cuvieri Great views in Andasibe Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Seen LA Madagascar Buttonquail Turnix nigricollis Seen (not well) Ifaty & Berenty Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common around Ifaty 7 Limosa Holidays

8 Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Madagascar Plover Charadrius thoracicus Great views of this rare species near Ifaty Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Seen south of Ifaty Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Seen south of Ifaty Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Greenshank Tringa nebularia Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Seen LA & Ifaty Turnstone Arenaria interpres Sanderling Calidris alba Little Stint Calidris minuta Seen south of Ifaty Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Madagascar Pratincole Glareola ocularis Seen on a river near Andasibe Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Seen well near Ifaty Madagascar Sandgrouse Pterocles personatus Pair at Berenty Feral Rock Dove Columba livia Small numbers in towns Malagasy Turtle Dove Nesoenas picturata Scattered at most sites Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Common in dry areas Madagascar Green Pigeon Treron australis Seen at Berenty Madagascar Blue Pigeon Alectroenas madagascariensis Seen Mantadia Grey-headed Lovebird Agapornis canus Common at Ifaty and Berenty Greater Vasa Parrot Coracopsis vasa A few Mantadia, Ifaty Lesser Vasa Parrot Coracopsis nigra Seen Andasibe, Ifaty & Berenty Malagasy Coucal Centropus toulou Common throughout Crested Coua Coua cristata Nesting at Berenty 8 Limosa Holidays

9 Blue Coua Coua caerulea Seen well at Mantadia, Andasibe Green-capped Coua Coua [ruficeps] oliveiceps Seen at Berenty Red-fronted Coua Coua reynaudii Seen Andasibe Running Coua Coua cursor Great views Ifaty Giant Coua Coua gigas Great views Berenty Madagascar Cuckoo Cuculus rochii Heard most days and seen well at Mantadia Torotoroka Scops Owl Otus madagascariensis Seen Berenty Rainforest Scops Owl Otus rutilus Heard at Andasibe White-browed Hawk-Owl Ninox superciliaris Great viewing Berenty Madagascar [Long-eared] Owl Asio madagascariensis Chick at nest Andasibe Madagascar Nightjar Caprimulgus madagascariensis Seen very well Ifaty, heard most days Collared Nightjar Caprimulgus enarratus Unbelievable views Mantadia Madagascar Spinetail Zoonavena grandidieri Seen well at Ifaty African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Seen daily around Andasibe Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba En route to Berenty Malagasy Black Swift Apus balstoni Seen Tana, Berenty Cuckoo Roller Leptosomus discolor Fantastic pair Mantadia Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus Great views Berenty, seen Andasibe Short-legged Ground Roller Brachypteracias leptosomus Incredible views at Mantadia Scaly Ground Roller Geobiastes squamiger Pair seen at Mantadia Pitta-like Ground Roller Atelornis pittoides Fantastic views at Mantadia Long-tailed Ground Roller Uratelornis chimaera Amazing views of pair at Ifaty Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher Corythornis madagascariensis Great views Mantadia Malagasy Kingfisher Corythornis vintsioides Small numbers seen well throughout Madagascar Bee-eater Merops superciliosus Common! Madagascar Hoopoe Upupa marginata Seen at Ifaty and Berenty Velvet Asity Philepitta castanea Excellent views at Mantadia 9 Limosa Holidays

10 Red-tailed Vanga Calicalicus madagascariensis Seen at Mantadia Hook-billed Vanga Vanga curvirostris Seen well Berenty Lafresnaye's Vanga Xenopirostris xenopirostris Fantastic views Ifaty Sickle-billed Vanga Falculea palliata Fantastic views Ifaty White-headed Vanga Artamella viridis Seen Berenty Chabert Vanga Leptopterus chabert Common at Mantadia and Ifaty Blue Vanga Cyanolanius madagascarinus Seen Andasibe Tylas Vanga Tylas eduardi Heard Andasibe Nuthatch Vanga Hypositta corallirostris Seen Andasibe Dark Newtonia Newtonia amphichroa Seen Mantadia & Andasibe Common Newtonia Newtonia brunneicauda Common and seen often Archbold's Newtonia Newtonia archboldi Seen well Ifaty Ward's Flycatcher Pseudobias wardi Seen well Mantadia, Andasibe Crossley's Vanga Mystacornis crossleyi Excellent sighting in Andasibe Madagascar Cuckooshrike Coracina cinerea Seen Mantadia & Andasibe Crested Drongo Dicrurus forficatus Common and conspicuous Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone mutata Common and both white and orange plumages seen Pied Crow Corvus albus Common Madagascar Lark Mirafra hova Seen Ifaty & Berenty Malagasy Bulbul Hypsipetes madagascariensis Common and widespread Mascarene Martin Phedina borbonica Common and widespread Brown-throated [Plain] Martin Riparia paludicola Seen by some LA Malagasy Brush Warbler Nesillas typica Seen well at LA, Andasibe Subdesert Brush Warbler Nesillas lantzii Madagascar Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus newtoni Seen in the mangroves near Ifaty & LA White-throated Oxylabes Oxylabes madagascariensis Seen Andasibe Long-billed Bernieria Bernieria madagascariensis Seen Mantadia, Andasibe 10 Limosa Holidays

11 Thamnornis Warbler Thamnornis chloropetoides Seen well Ifaty Spectacled Tetraka Xanthomixis zosterops Seen feeding fledglings in Mantadia Rand's Warbler Randia pseudozosterops Seen Andasibe Common Jery Neomixis tenella Common throughout Green Jery Neomixis viridis Seen well Andasibe Stripe-throated Jery Neomixis striatigula Seen Andasibe Madagascar Cisticola Cisticola cherina Common in open areas, esp Ifaty and Berenty Malagasy White-eye Zosterops maderaspatanus Common Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Common throughout Madagascar Starling Hartlaubius auratus Seen in Mantadia Madagascar Magpie-robin Copsychus albospecularis Common & seen most days Madagascar Stonechat Saxicola sibilla Seen in the Andasibe area & Tana Souimanga Sunbird Cinnyris sovimanga Very common, seen almost all days Malagasy Green Sunbird Cinnyris notatus Seen well Ifaty and Mantadia Nelicourvi Weaver Ploceus nelicourvi Seen well in Andasibe Sakalava Weaver Ploceus sakalava Common in the dry south, esp around Ifaty Madagascar Red Fody Foudia madagascariensis Abundant! Forest Fody Foudia omissa Small numbers Mantadia Madagascar Mannikin Lemuresthes nana Seen well LA, Tana and Andasibe Madagascar Wagtail Motacilla flaviventris Quite common Tana and Andasibe area MAMMALS Gray-brown Mouse Lemur Microcebus griseorufus These small nocturnal lemurs caused much excitement around dinnertime in Ifaty. We also found several curled up in the Euphorbia trees at Berenty. Goodman's Mouse Lemur Microcebus lehilahytsara Two of these tiny nocturnal lemurs were seen during our night-walk at Andasibe. Crossley's Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus crossleyi Three were seen on the night-walk at Andasibe - remember the dark rings around the eyes and the cat-like walk. White-footed Sportive Lemur Lepilemur leucopus This cute nocturnal foliovore ingests its feces - one of the numerous adaptations lemurs have to deal with food shortage. We saw it well during our night-walk in Berenty s gallery forest and the following afternoon resting among the sharply spined octopus trees! 11 Limosa Holidays

12 Ring-tailed Lemur Lemur catta We had great views of some well-habituated large troops around our Berenty accommodation, in the gallery and the spiny forest. Our last afternoon there included a beautiful scene of a troop playing and grooming, their lush coats and long tails glistening in the setting sunlight. Common Brown Lemur Eulemur fulvus We saw four on our second morning at Mantadia, a group of about eight crossing the bridge and entering the trees above us at Andasibe, and two more just before watching the Diademed Sifakas. Red-bellied Lemur Eulemur rubriventer Our second morning at Mantadia, 4 of these were spotted in a tangle above us. The female was trying to eat up a giant millipede, causing her to spittle and scratch herself. It must have been too good a treat! Red-fronted Brown Lemur Eulemur rufifrons Seen well at Berenty, feeding on tamarind fruits, drinking and carrying their newborn young. The population at Berenty is a hybrid between the introduced Red-fronted Brown Lemur and Collared Brown Lemur (E. collaris). Southern Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur Varecia variegata editorum On our first morning in Mantadia, we had fantastic views of more than five Black and White Ruffed Lemurs high up in the primary forest, showing off their acrobatic skills jumping between the tallest canopies. Some of us tracked them further and were treated with exceptional sightings of these shy and endangered lemurs coming down to drink in the river below us. Eastern Woolly Lemur/Eastern Avahi Avahi laniger At Andasibe we watched a group of four of these nocturnal lemurs cuddling together during daytime, and another small group of perhaps three during our night-walk. Remember the white thighs and the upright stance. Diademed Sifaka Propithecus diadema Its golden lush coat gives it its reputation of perhaps the most beautiful lemur. We saw it first on our first day at Mantadia, and then watched a family group of about four adults up a thick tree trunk in Andasibe. They sat peacefully and allowed us to watch them play and groom each other. Another superb sighting and photographic opportunity - it was so hard to tear us away! Verreaux s Sifaka Propithecus verreauxi On our morning walk at Berenty s gallery forest, we got much entertained by the antics of troop of these mostly white lemurs, sunning themselves in the tops of the trees, hanging upside down and sitting in typical lotus position. Indri Indri Indri Also called ghosts of the forest, the Indri s beautiful whale-like call abounded much of the day, while we spent 4 days in Andasibe-Mantadia. National Park. Our first and unexpected encounter occured shortly after watching Fossa and Collared Nightjar in Mantadia. They suddenly sounded so nearby so we tracked them and soon found ourselves standing below a family group of three Indri. At Andasibe, we enjoyed amazingly close sightings, with Indri feeding, resting, bounding between trees with their long legs and finally, singing right there among us. Fossa Cryptoprocta ferox On our very first few hours in the Madagascan rainforest, we picked up the call of Fossa, and tracked it down to the branch of a tree where eventually we watched two Fossa, in between the leaves, preening and mating! To see and photograph Madagascar s largest carnivore - and on the first full day of the tour is quite an experience!! Ring-tailed Mongoose Galidia elegans This shy but colourful carnivore was seen in Berenty by a very happy Sue Mendus. Narrow-striped Mongoose Mungotictis decemlineata Some of us saw this shy carnivore head into the arid scrub at the estuary between Ifaty and Tulear. Lowland Streaked Tenrec Hemicentetes semispinosus One seen and rescued from a deep verge along the forest trail in Andasibe. Madagascar Flying Fox Pteropus rufus We watched a colony of these large and noisy fruit bats with great scope views in Berenty's gallery forest. 12 Limosa Holidays