Madagascar: Endemic Birds & Lemurs 25 Oct-10 Nov 2008

Transcription

1 Limosa Tour Report Madagascar: Endemic Birds & Lemurs 25 Oct-10 Nov 2008 Clockwise, from top left: The superbly named Hubbard s Sportive Lemur Like so many of Madagascar s stunning birds, the White-browed Hawk Owl is endemic to the island As are the must-see Velvet Asity... and dashing Running Coua Our 2008 Madagascar group and Baobab What a gem, the Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity is another of the island s endemics Callan Cohen and Deirdre Vrancken, Oct/Nov Limosa Holidays, Suffield House, Northrepps, Norfolk NR27 0LZ, England tel: +44 (0) fax: +44 (0) info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 Clockwise, from top left: Blue Vanga is surely one of the island s smartest looking endemic birds The Indri s weird, whalelike calls echo through Madagascar s forests Unique to Madagascar, a Short-legged Ground Roller ponders our group A superbly camouflaged Collared Nightjar relies on its cryptic coloration to escape detection - but not the keen eyes of our 2008 group! There are plenty of other bizarre creatures on Madagascar, from geckos, chameleons and frogs, to insects such as the peculiar Giraffe-necked Weevil Callan Cohen and Deirdre Vrancken, Oct/Nov 2008 For a more extensive selection of photos taken on our Madagascar tour s please visit our Gallery feature at Tour Leaders: Callan Cohen & Deirdre Vrancken 2 Limosa Holidays

3 TOUR HIGHLIGHTS Complete immersion in the natural history of Madagascar, from ground-rollers, dwarf lemurs and giant chameleons to other-wordly Octopus trees Wide range of habitats covered, from eastern rainforests, dry western forests and the bizarre spiny forests of the south-west All five endemic bird families seen All five Ground-rollers seen. A real coup to complete the set! Saw three asities on one day, including the endangered Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity and a smart male Velvet Asity. Bird highlights: Velvet Asity, displaying Cuckoo-roller overhead, Madagascan Flufftail at our feet, Long-tailed Ground-roller in the spiny desert, Scaly Ground-roller in front of us, Madagascan Crested Ibis on the nest, Shortlegged Ground-roller and more Enjoyed Madagascar at the best time, with many birds breeding and flowers in bloom 18 species of lemurs in four families seen, highlights being Indri at close range, as well as Milne-Edwards, Verreaux s and Diademed Sifakas and, of course, Ring-tailed Lemurs. Meller s Duck seen well Top experiences were dancing sifakas, Ring-tailed Lemur families, the booming Indri calls, the search for Shortlegged Ground-roller across the river, and the rescue of the Madagascan Forest Rail chicks! Not to mention many others, including swimming in the Indian Ocean. Thanks to all the participants for a fun and successful tour - and some great spotting! A huge thank you to our drivers, local guides and hosts who made sure we were always in the right place at the right time and were well looked after. Callan Cohen & Deirdre Vrancken, November 2008 DAILY DIARY Saturday 25th October 2008 Fly London Paris. Overnight Paris. Sunday 26th October 2008 Fly Paris to Antananarivo ( Tana ). Evening arrival in Tana, where Deirdre and I met the group and proceeded to the nearby hotel for a check-in. Monday 27th October 2008 After a relaxed breakfast, we transferred to the airport and took the one-hour flight to Toliara on the south-west coast, where the aquamarine sea and arid coast contrasted strongly with the highland scenes of this morning. We met up with our airconditioned coaster bus and headed slowly up the coast, making regular stops to scan while our driver negotiated the very sandy patches where large trucks had become stuck. Here, white beaches were punctuated by small marshes, Vezo fishing villages and clumps of mangrove trees. A Madagascan ( Mad ) Kingfisher was nesting in a roadside bank but flew off quickly, before it was relocated by Deirdre perched in a low tree, where we also called up a Madagascan Swamp Warbler. Soon, the strange Octopus trees began to appear, making this seem a very other-worldly place. The huge Atrophaneura butterflies wafted past and a good bird party held our first Chabert s Vangas with their wonderful electric blue eye wattles. Also here was a Subdesert Brush Warbler, Olive Bee-eater. Madagascan Coucal, Namaqua Dove and Madagascan Kestrel. We arrived at our seaside hotel to watch the sun set with the sea lapping below us, and a Madagascan Nightjar flew around the hotel for those who hadn t yet begun their evening freshening up. We enjoyed dinner, with both seafood and beef ( zebu ) options, before settling in for the night. Tuesday 28th October 2008 After an early breakfast to beat the heat, we drove for five minutes to a very special patch of spiny forest. It wasn t long before our main bird targets - Long-tailed Ground-roller and Subdesert Mesite - were seen really well, with some good photographic opportunities, thanks to our local guides who knew just where to find the ground dwelling birds. We then worked our ways through all the birds we encountered, the whole time immersed in what must be one of the most unusual habitats on earth, surrounded by giant baobabs, Octopus trees and other equally bizarre flora. Sickle-billed Vanga was a huge highlight, as was Red-capped (the Green-capped subspecies) and Running Couas, Stripe-throated Jery, Grey-headed Lovebird, Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrots, Archbold s Newtonia, Madagascan Paradise Flycatcher, Thamnornis Warbler (looks nothing like the pic in the books), Madagascar Turtle Dove and Madagascan Spinetail. Perhaps the most exciting was a very obliging LaFresnaye s Vanga that I had found here a week earlier and tape recorded. He came so close to us that we could even see the tiny black throat that characterises him. By 10h00 it was getting very hot and the main activity was from Three-eyed Lizards scurrying around at our feet. So we returned to the cool of the sea at our hotel to relax, enjoy lunch and have some time off in the heat of the day. 3 Limosa Holidays

4 In the late afternoon we returned and had a brilliant sighting of one last possible birds we could see here a Banded Kestrel. It was so unconcerned by us that at one stage it even flew towards us and snatched a lizard! Beginners luck I thought as I considered all the really good birds seen so well by the group on just their second day on the island. Wednesday 29th October 2008 We had done well the previous day, so enjoyed a late breakfast (and saw a bright Phelsuma modesta day gecko on the kitchen wall). We then headed to a special stake-out for the very rare Madagascan Plover, which Les spotted before we had even come to a stop! Excellent views were enjoyed and Madagascan Bushlark and Three-banded and Kittlitz s Plover were seen too. We did quite a lot of wader scanning, hoping for the Crab Plovers that we had seen here last year, but were instead rewarded with Greater Sand Plover, Whimbrel, Curlew Sandpiper, Dimorphic Egret, Striated Heron and Great Crested Tern. We had lunch at a seafront hotel in Toliara, did some more scanning in the now increasing wind, then settled in to our hotel in Toliara for some time off. Once it began to cool in the late afternoon, we headed to a nearby plateau area with dense spiny shrubs where we quickly found one of Madagascar s recently-described species, Red-shouldered Vanga which responded really well to its call. Verreaux s Coua called just a few metres away from us but refused to come out and we eventually had to call it a day as dusk fell. We did also have superb views of Red-capped ( Green-capped ) Coua, Subdesert Brush Warbler and Madagascan Green Pigeon on the nest. Thursday 30th October 2008 We had breakfast and departed early from our hotel to lie in wait at a nearby area where one of the most elusive Madagascar endemics sometimes comes to drink in the early morning: Madagascan Sandgrouse. We found the birds quicker than expected and enjoyed scope view of eight birds, a mix of the black-faced males and females. Madagascan Cisticola and Kittlitz s Plover were seen well too. Not wanting to dip, we tried another spot for the Verreaux s Coua that had eluded us last night and bingo one responded to the alarm call and perched in the top of an emergent tree giving excellent views! We continued our drive towards Zombitse forest, a remnant of the once very extensive deciduous forests inland. It was simply bursting with life. First we had a family group of Verreaux s Sifakas, lounging in a tree, our first encounter with these wonderful lemurs. As we entered the forest we noticed the fascinating botany with strange Pandanus trees, miniature orchids and Euphorbias. Giant Coua was seen excellently walking on the forest floor but it took more effort to see the more common Coquerel s Coua. Other goodies were Long-billed Bernieria, Red-tailed Vanga, Common Newtonia and, eventually, once it was getting rather hot, point blank views of the locally endemic Appert s Tetraka forging at our feet, a wonderfully understated bird with peachy underparts. Cuckoo-rollers impressed us over head with their dramatic displays, a White-browed Hawk Owl watched us from its day roost and a Hubbard s Sportive Lemur sat on the edge of its tree hole. We also saw a giant Oustalet s Chameleon, about 60 cm long. It was hot when we left and, after enjoying lunch at the nearby restaurant with cold drinks, we proceeded northwards, shocked by the devastation of the forest surrounding this small national park. Arriving at our very luxurious hotel, set among the runeiforme sandstone outcrops of the Isalo Plateau, we checked in and enjoyed a welcome drink, only to see a male Benson s Rock-thrush, the speciality we had come here to find, perched on the chandelier above our heads! We had some time off to enjoy our surroundings in the late afternoon light, before enjoying a superb gourmet dinner. Friday 31th October 2008 Our pre-breakfast walk for Madagascan Partridge, a rather tricky endemic, proved a huge success with extended scoped views of two females and a male. We also saw White-faced Whistling-ducks and Red-billed Ducks, Madagascan Kingfisher, Olive Bee-eater, African Palm Swift and a young Yellow-billed Kite. We headed north again, through the grassy plateaux, past huge granite outcrops and vivid red Flamboyant Trees, but didn t manage to pick up a Madagascan Harrier despite many stops to scan. As we approached Ranomafana - our destination - the deep valleys were cloaked in forest and we stopped on the edge of the road at a viewpoint. Here we saw both Common and Green Jerys, a distant Madagascan Buzzard on the nest spotted by Sandy and distant Blue Coua and Ward s Flycatcher. We settled into our hotel in the late afternoon and had dinner there. Saturday 1st November 2008 Today was one of my best day s forest birding ever. We made an early start but our patience and perseverance were rewarded with no less than two ground-roller species and three asity species! Each one required some dedication to a strategy, such as waiting at a particular spot, or recording the call and coaxing the bird out. The first was a male Velvet Asity, jet black with neon green and blue eye wattles. He sat close to us for about 10 minutes, allowing great photos. Next was the exquisite Pitta-like Ground-roller, which hid well at first but then showed itself, eventually hopping onto the path in full view and cocking its tail over its head! Common Sunbird-asity, as nice as it was, was completely overshadowed by our crippling views of a male and female Yellow-bellied Sunbird-asity at eye level as we waited for them at their favourite nectar plants. You have to see the photos to believe the convergence on sunbirds and those crazy colours! Rufous-headed Ground-roller played hard to get. We tried them often and with a variety of calls that I had pre-recorded. Eventually, after much waiting, two birds snuck close to us and we all got excellent views of this intricately-patterned bird. It was well worth the wait! 4 Limosa Holidays

5 Despite all this gaudy colour, the bird of the day almost threatened to be a Brown Emu-tail that all but strolled over our toes and gave us excellent views of its tail barbs. Surely no bird resembles a rodent more than this one. Its trust was endearing and it was a real highlight and in complete contrast to its mega-skulking reputation. Other bird goodies were Cryptic Warbler, Tylas and Blue Vangas and a Madagascan Blue Pigeon that pooped on my head from the canopy (clearly a good luck sign). One of the most bizarre insects is surely the Giraffe-necked Weevil that we saw, while we also found the Pandanus frog that nests in the leaf axils of these plants. The Red-bellied Lemurs early in the day were good, but the mammal sighting of the day has to go to a group of the rare Milne-Edwards Sifakas that Deirdre spotted. We were able to watch them for at last 15 minutes before the late afternoon rain drizzled down and convinced us to head back after an excellent day. Sunday 2nd November 2008 The weather was superb and we headed to the area of the park that was more popular with lemur-seeking tourists. After crossing the Namorona River, we ascended into the forest and quite quickly found some real skulkers, Brown Mesite and Crossley s Babbler (a type of vanga!) that walked a circle around us on the forest floor, giving excellent views, in response to their calls. We also caught up with some small birds: Short-billed and Grey-crowned Tetrakas, Nelicourvi Weaver, Forest Fody, Wedge-tailed Jery, and White-throated Oxylabes. Our local guide was especially good on snakes and he spotted no les than three Biblavas that we got to examine in detail. At the Belle Vue viewpoint, we looked over the forest expanse and also saw close Blue Vangas, Cuckoo-Roller and Lesser and Greater Vasa Parrots and a stunning orange and black banded Ringtailed Mongoose. Christine had a Henst s Goshawk. We had superb views of another male Velvet Asity. The lemur highlight was surely the close views of Greater Bamboo Lemur, a real privilege as it is thought that as few as 60 of this highly endangered species might be left in the wild. We returned for an afternoon break back at the hotel and most elected to return for a late afternoon and evening walk, where we saw Red-fronted Brown Lemurs, then had incredibly close views of the tiny Brown Mouse Lemurs, a real treat. Here too was a habituated Malagasy Striped Civet, or Fanaloka. We saw a variety of frogs on the walk back but the highlight was a leaf-tailed gecko, Uroplatus phantasticus. We also saw the giant yellow Comet Moth, one of the largest moths in the world. Monday 3rd November 2008 This morning we had a chance to visit a recently discovered site for Meller s Duck that I d been to for the first time just a few weeks previously. En route, we had excellent views of Forest Rock-thrush. We slowly walked to a vantage point over a heavily forested river where we hoped to see the ducks. Red-billed Duck was a false alarm at first and things were tense. Our local guide headed forward while we waited and suddenly two duck burst from cover and did a huge looping flight in front of us: we all had excellent views of Meller s Duck, now fast dwindling into extinction. Other great highlights at a nearby marsh included Madagascan Grassbird and eventually - a Madagascan Snipe that showed really well! It was time to head north again and we continued our journey, stopping to see some Dimorphic Egrets at a heronry and enjoying a picnic spread put together by Deirdre on a mountain pass. Later in the afternoon we arrived at our grand colonial hotel were we settled in and even had the option to have a bath! Tuesday 4th November 2008 This morning, after breakfast, we continued on our way. The rolling landscape had small Betsileo villages and tomb sites along the ridges while the valleys were filled with fertile rice fields attended by people in colourful clothing. It was rather scenic but almost all the natural vegetation had been cleared and African Stonechats, Hamerkop and Great Egret were the more interesting birds. A White-throated Rail dashed back into cover after we stopped the bus and a Madagascan Grebe was seen on a river crossing. The most exciting was a Madagascan Praticole perched atop a boulder in a river, which everyone got to see in the scope! We approached Andasibe, also known as Perinet, with high hopes of more Eastern Rainforest creatures. Sandy spotted a troop of Common Brown Lemurs just near the hotel, then we checked in just as light rain began to fall. We nipped out to a nearby site to try for some skulking marsh birds and heard both Madagascan Rail and Madagascan Flufftail very close by but neither would show themselves. One our way to dinner, Deirdre s calls revealed one, then two, Furry-eared Dwarf Lemurs near the restaurant and we had good views in the spotlight of these nocturnal primates. Wednesday 5th November 2008 Today we headed to the nearby Mantadia National Park, one of the best sites for the medium to low altitude forest specials and it turned out to be another of those really excellent days in the forest. We had not one but TWO excellent sightings of Scaly Ground-roller. This chunky and intricately-patterned forest skulker was a firm favourite. The first was near a nest site (a burrow in the ground) and the second pair was found by Deirdre ahead on the path while we were otherwise engaged. Eventually, we had our fill and walked away from them. We also heard our first Indris, whose whale-like echoes reverberated through the forest trees, although these large primates remained out of view. We did however get excellent views of a group of the normally very shy Black-and-white Ruffed Lemurs feeding in a fruit tree, as well as a wonderfully close view of a mother and baby Eastern Woolly Lemur (Avahi) patiently waiting in a clump of leaves for night to fall. More bird highlights included a pair of Nuthatch Vangas, a Collared Nightjar on its nest atop a Bird s Nest Fern, a circling Henst s Goshawk and a Madagascan Flufftail that walked past my speaker, which I had positioned on the ground, many times until we all had a good view. It was the first flufftail - notoriously secretive pygmy crakes that occur in Africa too - that most of the participants had ever seen! 5 Limosa Holidays

6 We were then faced with a dilemma: a Short-legged Ground-roller, which we had been searching for the whole morning, began to call from the hillside opposite, but we knew there were no paths there. We tried to get closer and our local park guide enthusiastically cut a path through the undergrowth for us to follow. We crossed a little stream but then encountered a forest river, which was about five metres wide and a foot deep. Still the bird called from the other side. Those who were in the mood for a bit of an adventure either took off their boots and splashed across the river, or were carried across on the back of our muscular local guide who was always happy to be of assistance! We had a lot of laughs. Remarkably, the bird still called, so we scrambled about 200m further through some rather dense tangles and suddenly it was just above us. We stood still, and played back its call and the bird came into view, completely exposed on an open branch about 10 metres in front of us. We stood transfixed for at least 15 minutes and soaked up the most amazing views of this bulky bird that resembles a South American puffbird more than any African species. We soon realised there were two and it was an incredible experience standing beneath these huge trees, dripping with ferns, watching one of the toughest birds in the world to see. We returned in high spirits. We also encountered a reptile highlight, especially for Susie whois really into snakes. We saw the locally endemic Ithycyphis perineti. This normally very shy and strictly arboreal snake crossed the road in front of us, then stopped and performed a display not unlike a cobra. This must be one of the most beautiful snakes I have ever seen; it was a wonderful golden colour, but then the rear half is a blood-purple, with the most amazing gloss. The myth goes that these feared snakes drop from the trees to spear their human victims, explaining the blood-stained rear half of the animal. We also saw the vivid red, yellow, orange and black Painted Mantella Frog, remarkably convergent with the South American poison-dart frogs. And last, but not least, we had excellent views of the elusive Diademed Sifaka, a beautiful lemur with orange in the pelage. Thursday 6th November 2008 This morning we visited the Andasibe National Park with the intention of actually seeing Indri. We weren t prepared for the fright we got when a family group that we were tracking started calling just above our heads when we hadn t yet noticed them! The deafening sounds passed right through us and we just about jumped out of our skins when they started their calling. To have such an intimate experience, watching the parents and baby just above us, with this largest of the surviving lemurs, was a moving experience for all. No less than 16 species of lemurs, all bigger than Indri, have been rendered extinct since humans first colonised the island 2000 years ago. We had excellent bird sightings too: we caught up with more views of Nuthatch and White-headed Vangas, a White-throated Rail stalked in a stream bed below us, a Madagascan Scops Owl was eventually tracked down tucked below a Bird s Nest Fern and we added Rand s Warbler and Madagascan Starling. We also rescued two tiny Madagascan Forest Rail chicks from a ditch and enjoyed amazing views of the adults in the process. A huge trip highlight was a Madagascan Crested Ibis on the nest; the colours and gloss on the crest have to be seen to be believed. There was a group of Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemurs here too. We returned to our hotel on the edge of the forest to pack our bags and at eye level in the trees of the reserve opposite the decks in front of our rooms, a family group of Indri foraged! It was an incredible farewell to the rainforests. The branches were hanging with epiphytic ferns and white Angraecum orchids with their long nectar tubes famously pollinated by long-tongued Darwin moths. We drove back to Tana in the afternoon and made a stop at the best waterbird site in town, Lac Alarobia, where waterfowl and egrets are protected. The bird numbers were overwhelming, with Cattle, Dimorphic and Great Egrets, Squacco Heron, Black Egret and, finally, a handful of the rare Madagascan Pond Heron. Friday 7th November 2008 Today was mainly a travel day, with two internal flights to get us to the south-east coastal town of Tolagnaro, where we had a good lunch and continued on our journey to Berenty. The road was very potholed and at one stage a large bridge had been damaged, so we transferred to four-wheel-drives and made our way through the dry riverbed and on to Berenty, where we had some time off to relax after the travel and enjoy our first lemurs. Saturday 8th November 2008 We had a superb day birding and lemuring at Berenty. We started the day with tea and coffee, went on a pre-breakfast walk in the cool, returned for a good breakfast, then another walk, a rest over the heat of the day, then out again in the late afternoon for a dusk and night walk. Berenty is a wonderfully tranquil place and we had wonderful sightings. Highlights were sunning Crested Couas, tame Giant Couas, a Madagascan Cuckoo-hawk on the nest, Madagascan Hoopoes, another White-browed Hawk Owl, Hook-billed Vanga, Barn Owl, White-footed Sportive Lemurs and, of course, watching Ringtailed Lemurs and dancing Verreaux s Sifakas. The evening and night walk was superb with close views of roosting Torotoroka Scops Owls and Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs (and later Grey Mouse Lemur in the gallery forest). The silhouettes of Alluadia trees, Madagascan Nightjar and the moon were quite special. Sunday 9th November 2008 This was to be a long day, filled with variety. We started off with a late and relaxed breakfast, watching the lemurs sunning themselves in the open area opposite. We then took a walk through the gallery forest and located our main target, Madagascan Buttonquail, which eventually showed well. We had impressive views of a colony of Madagascan Flying Foxes 6 Limosa Holidays

7 hanging in the trees making quite noise and saw Grey-headed Lovebird and Madagascan Green Pigeon on the stroll back. We then had some time to pack bags, before transferring back to Tolagnaro (a very scenic but rather bumpy three-hour drive) and flying to Tana, We arrived in the early evening, had a final dinner in the ominously-named Ebola Restaurant at the airport and then checked in for the Air France flight on to Paris and London. Monday 10th November 2008 Arrival in Paris and on to the UK. BIRDS SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED (Total number of bird species recorded by the group - 153) Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris A small party of birds at Berenty; also 2 flying across the road at at Isalo. Madagascan Partridge Margaroperdix madagarensis Superb views of a male and 2 females in the open near Relais de la Reine. White-faced Whistling-duck Dendrocygna viduata Over 200 seen at Lac Alarobia in Tana, and a large group of over 100 roosting at the mangrove estuary near Ifaty. Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos 1 at Lac Alarobia in Tana. Meller s Duck Anas melleri Two seen excellently at a remote river in the Ranomafana area. This rapidly declining species is fast disappearing from its usual haunts and is a strong candidate for imminent extinction. Red-billed Duck Anas erythrorhyncha Over 100 seen at Lac Alarobia in Tana. And also seen from the roadside in the highlands and about 12 on the river at the Meller s Duck spot. Madagascan Grebe Tachybaptus pelzelnii One feeding in a river in the central highland, and one at Lac Alarobia Madagascan Crested Ibis Lophotibis cristata Spectacular views of this bird on the nest at Andasibe. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax About 20 seen at Lac Alarobia in Tana on the first day; also in a heronry in the central highlands. Striated Heron Butorides striata Small numbers throughout the trip, seen especially well in the mangroves near Ifaty. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Over 200 seen at Lac Alarobia in Tana in full breeding display. Madagascan Pond Heron Ardeola idae Eventually, about 4 seen well among all the Squacco Herons at Lac Alarobia in Tana. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common throughout. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1 seen along the coast in the Ifaty area. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Small numbers in the central highlands; seen well at the Mad Snipe Marsh. Great Egret Ardea alba Many breeding at Lac Alarobia, and seen occasionally in rice paddies throughout. Black Egret Egretta ardesiaca Over 10 adults and juveniles of this smart heron at Lac Alarobia. Dimorphic Egret Egretta dimorpha Widespread throughout the island, both at inland rice paddies and the coast, with both white, black and grey forms seen. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Seen in rice paddies on most travel days; huge nests also seen. Madagascan Kestrel Falco newtoni Common and widespread; adapted to breeding on buildings and seen on almost every day of the tour. Banded Kestrel Falco zoniventris One individual of this elusive species seen closely at Ifaty. Peregrine Falco peregrinus One bird flying near a grass fire near Ihosy, presumably of the endemic race radama. Madagascan Cuckoo-hawk Aviceda madagascariensis Seen while sitting on the nest at Berenty; best views were when the second bird flew (rapidly) past, being mobbed by drongos. 7 Limosa Holidays

8 Black Kite Milvus migrans Common and widespread, often seen along roadsides, many seen very well at Relais de la Reine. This subspecies is often called Yellow-billed Kite. Henst's Goshawk Accipiter henstii Seen soaring at Mantadia, and at Ranomafana by Christine (we all heard it calling but only Christine saw it here). Madagascan Buzzard Buteo brachypterus Seen regularly throughout the tour, including a bird on a nest at Ranomafana. Brown Mesite Mesitornis unicolor Exceptional views of this skulking bird: two were coaxed into view at Ranomafana. Subdesert Mesite Monias benschi A male was seen perched in a tree at Ifaty, exhibiting its strange anti-predator posture towards us. Madagascan Flufftail Sarothrura insularis A major trip highlight was exceptionally close views of a male as he investigated a playback of his song in the forest at Mantadia. Madagascan Forest Rail Canirallus kioloides We rescued two tiny fluffball chicks from a ditch and were rewarded with close views of the adults. Madagascan Rail Rallus madagascariensis Heard only, on the edge of reeds on the first day near Perinet. White-throated Rail Dryolimnas cuvieri Best views of a bird in a stream below us at Andasibe. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 4 at Lac Alarobia. Madagascan Buttonquail Turnix nigricollis Best sighting was of a pair in the woodland at Berenty. The female is more brightly-coloured in this polyandrous species. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Common in roadside ponds near Ifaty. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Very common along the coast at Ifaty and Tulear. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Common along the coast at Tulear; over 10 seen in Tulear harbour. Madagascan Plover Charadrius thoracicus Two of this increasingly rare plover seen very well, close to our hotel at Ifaty, and another on a mudflat in Toliara. Kittlitz s Plover Charadrius pecuarius Common around Ifaty ans seen well. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 1 seen on ponds near Ifaty. White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Two seen only distantly on a sand bar and never relocated. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii Common at Tulear and Ifaty, with up to 40 seen. Madagascan Snipe Gallinago macrodactyla Superb views of one of this increasingly rare wader at a highland swamp. The habitat of this species is under increasingly pressure due to conversion to rice paddies. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Very common along the coast at Ifaty and Tulear. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Common along the coast at Ifaty and Tulear. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Small numbers throughout; first seen at the Mangoro River Bridge. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Common along the coast at Ifaty and Tulear. Sanderling Calidris alba About twenty seen along the coast near Ifaty. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Small numbers along the coast at Ifaty and Tulear. Madagascan Pratincole Glareola ocularis Excellent scoped views of 1 bird perched on a rock at a river crossing. Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii One near Ifaty. Common Tern Sterna hirundo One on the coast at Toliara. Madagascan Sandgrouse Pterocles personatus Excellent views of 8 birds coming to drink at a waterhole near Tulear. 8 Limosa Holidays

9 Feral Rock Dove Columba livia Feral Pigeons were common and widespread in towns. Madagascan Turtle Dove Streptopelia picturata Common in woodland and forest throughout, with best views at Berenty and Ifaty. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis This attractive dove was very common throughout in drier areas. Madagascan Green Pigeon Treron australis Seen on the nest near Toliara and again at Berenty. Madagascan Blue Pigeon Alectroenas madagascariensis Great views of this dazzling pigeon at Andasibe and Ranomafana. Grey-headed Lovebird Agapornis canus Fairly common at Berenty and around Ifaty/Tulear. Greater Vasa Parrot Coracopsis vasa Just a few scattered individuals, probably best seen on the flowering red tree at Ranomafana. Lesser Vasa Parrot Coracopsis nigra Widespread throughout, seen well at Ifaty. Madagascan Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus rochii Common; seen or hear on most days of the tour. Giant Coua Coua gigas Magnificently close and prolonged views at Berenty; also seen well at Zombitse. Coquerel's Coua Coua coquereli Seen at Zombitse on the forest floor. Red-breasted Coua Coua serriana One of this super skulker was tempted to wander a big circle around us in the forest at Mantadia. He showed really for some, but was hidden for others. Red-fronted Coua Coua reynaudii Seen very well in the end at the Rufous-headed Ground-roller spot. Running Coua Coua cursor Two seen very well in the spiny desert at Ifaty. Red-capped Coua Coua ruficeps Two individuals of the southern Green-capped/Brown-capped subspecies seen well, first at Ifaty then near Toliara. Crested Coua Coua cristata Many seen well at Berenty; also smaller numbers at Ifaty. Verreaux's Coua Coua verreauxi One of this highly localized species seen well on our second try, in scrub near Toliara. Blue Coua Coua caerulea Small numbers in the eastern forests, seen especially well at Ranomafana; a star bird! Madagascan Coucal Centropus toulou Common on widespread throughout. Barn Owl Tyto alba hypermetra One roosting in the gallery forest at Berenty was seen very clearly. Torotoroka Scops Owl Otus madagascariensis One superbly-camouflaged bird roosting in spiny forest on the evening walk at Berenty. Madagascan Scops Owl Otus rutilus One seen roosting during the day at Andasibe after a bit of searching. White-browed Hawk Owl Ninox superciliaris Fantastic views of at least 3 birds at Berenty and one at Zombitse. Madagascan Nightjar Caprimulgus madagascariensis Small numbers at dusk throughout, including the first night at Ifaty. Collared Nightjar Caprimulgus enarratus One of this superbly camouflaged bird on a Bird s Nest Fern at Mantadia. Madagascan Spinetail Zoonavena grandidieri Seen in the morning in the spiny forest at Ifaty. African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Small numbers throughout; especially common around Isalo. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Small numbers in the Isalo area. Madagascan Swift Apus balstoni Small numbers throughout, most in the Isalo area. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus Scattered sightings in tall trees throughout, including Zombitse, Ranomafana and very well at Berenty. Short-legged Ground-roller Brachypteracias leptosomus Two seen very well at Mantadia, for those who opted to cross the small stream with no guarantee of success! 9 Limosa Holidays

10 Scaly Ground-roller Brachypteracias squamiger One seen very well near its nest at Mantadia, and another pair in the path a little further along. Pitta-like Ground-roller Atelornis pittoides Excellent views at Ranomafana. Rufous-headed Ground-roller Atelornis crossleyi Superb views of two birds of Ranomafana after some perseverance! Long-tailed Ground-roller Uratelornis chimaera Fantastic views at Ifaty; one of the birds of the trip! Cuckoo-roller Leptosomus discolor The spectacle of displaying males overhead at Zombitse, with their piercing calls and acrobatic displays, was a major highlight; also seen at Ranomfana. Madagascan Kingfisher Alcedo vintsioides Scattered sightings throughout; first seen near Ifaty. Olive Bee-eater Merops superciliosus Widespread and common; especially numerous at Ifaty. Madagascan Hoopoe Upupa marginata Seen well at Berenty and Ifaty; bizarre purring call! Velvet Asity Philepitta castanea Superb views of a male on both of our full days at Ranomafana. Common Sunbird-asity Neodrepanis coruscans Seen feeding overhead at Ranomafana. Yellow-bellied Sunbird-asity Neodrepanis hypoxantha Excellent views of a pair at our stake-out at Ranomafana, after some waiting. where they came to feed at flowers at eye level. The male was especially impressive! Red-tailed Vanga Calicalicus madagascariensis Reasonably widespread in bird parties, but not seen well often. The best sighting was of a male at Zombitse and again at Ranomafana. Red-shouldered Vanga Calicalicus rufocarpalis Incredibly close views of this localized and relatively recently described species near Toliara. Hook-billed Vanga Vanga curvirostris One briefly at Ranofana and then seen at Berenty. Lafresnaye's Vanga Xenopirostris xenopirostris A male showed really well at Ifaty and we could even see the black chin! Pollen's Vanga Xenopirostris polleni Heard calling overhead a few times but wouldn t pop into view! Sickle-billed Vanga Falculea palliata Surely one of the top birds of Madagascar! Four seen well in the spiny forest at Ifaty. The call is almost as bizarre as the bird. White-headed Vanga Artamella viridis Seen well in the end at Andasibe. Chabert's Vanga Leptopterus chabert First seen well on our afternoon going to Ifaty, with small numbers throughout the trip. Blue Vanga Cyanolanius madagascarinus Despite the colour, not always that easy to see! Seen first at Ifaty but best from the viewpoint at Ranomfana. Rufous Vanga Schetba rufa Heard only, twice at Ranomafana. Tylas Vanga Tylas eduardi Small groups seen well at Mantadia and Ranomafana. Nuthatch Vanga Hypositta corallirostris Seen at Mantadia in a mixed bird party and again at Andasibe. Dark Newtonia Newtonia amphichroa This skulker was seen at Ranomafana at the Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity spot. Common Newtonia Newtonia brunneicauda Common in small numbers throughout. Archbold's Newtonia Newtonia archboldi Seen well in the spiny forest at Ifaty. Ward's Flycatcher Pseudobias wardi Small numbers in tall rainforest at Rano and Andasibe; easy to see at our accommodation at Andasibe. Crossley's Babbler Mystacornis crossleyi Top bird! One seen walking along the ground at Ranomafana. Ashy Cuckooshrike Coracina cinerea Small numbers in forest throughout; seen well at Mantadia and Ranomafana. 10 Limosa Holidays

11 Crested Drongo Dicrurus forficatus Common and widespread throughout. Madagascan Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone mutata Pleasantly common; seen in all wooded habitats and often the bird to brighten a slow patch in the forest. Pied Crow Corvus albus Very common along roadsides in the south and central part of the country. Mascarene Martin Phedina borbonica Small numbers throughout, seen on almost all days. Plain Martin Riparia paludicola Small numbers at the Mad Snipe marsh. Madagascan Bushlark Mirafra hova Comon in the south in grasslands and along roadsides. Madagascan Cisticola Cisticola cherina Common in any open grassy area, abundant in the south. Common Jery Neomixis tenella Common, heard most days, seen well at Rano and Berenty. Green Jery Neomixis viridis Although heard calling a lot from the tree tops, only seen once at Ranomafana, where we had close views on the road edge. Stripe-throated Jery Neomixis striatigula Common at Ifaty and also seen at Rano. Madagascan Bulbul Hypsipetes madagascariensis Very common throughout. Madagascan Grassbird Amphilais seebohmi One of this extreme skulker eventually seen well, at the Mad Snipe Marsh. Also known as Grey Emutail. Brown Emu-tail Dromaeocercus brunneus A real highlight! One of this extreme skulker eventually showed well, almost walking over our feet! Madagascan Brush Warbler Nesillas typica Common on forest edge throughout. Subdesert Brush Warbler Nesillas lantzii Common around Ifaty. Madagascan Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus newtoni Seen well on the first day near Ifaty. White-throated Oxylabes Oxylabes madagascariensis Extreme skulker: 1 seen well at Ranomafana in the end, and then again at Andasibe. Long-billed Bernieria Bernieria madagascariensis Common in mixed feeding flocks at Mantadia, Ranomafana and Zombitse. Cryptic Warbler Cryptosylvicola randriansoloi Recently discovered; seen in the forest at Ranomafana. Wedge-tailed Jery Hartertula flavoviridis A family group, with dependent fledglings, seen well at Ranomafana and again at Mantadia. Thamnornis Warbler Thamnornis chloropetoides 1 seen in the spiny forest near Ifaty; looks nothing like its illustration in the book! Short-billed Tetraka Xanthomixis zosterops AKA Spectacled Greenbul. Common in the understorey at Ranomafana. Appert's Tetraka Xanthomixis apperti Three birds seen very closely in Zombitse forest. An often under-rated bird: very beautiful, with a tiny world range. Grey-crowned Tetraka Xanthomixis cinereiceps Seen in a mixed flock at Ranomafana. Often seen creeping along mossy trunks. Rand's Warbler Randia pseudozosterops Seen above us at Andasibe. Madagascan White-eye Zosterops maderaspatanus Common and widespread throughout. Madagascan Starling Saroglossa aurata 1 at Mantadia and then well at Andasibe the next day. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Very common in man-altered habitats throughout. Madagascan Magpie-robin Copsychus albospecularis Very common throughout; small numbers of this confiding species seen on most days. African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Small numbers seen in the highlands on all travel days. Forest Rock-thrush Monticola sharpei One seen early in the morning at Ranomafana. 11 Limosa Holidays

12 Benson's Rock-thrush Monticola bensoni A male, and then female, seen closely at Relais de la Reine, on the chandelier! Often lumped under the former species. Souimanga Sunbird Cinnyris souimanga Common and widespread throughout. Long-billed Green Sunbird Cinnyris notatus Small numbers on forest edge at Ranomafana. Nelicourvi Weaver Ploceus nelicourvi Small numbers in forest feeding flocks at Mantadia and Ranomafana. Sakalava Weaver Ploceus sakalava Very common in the arid south-west. Around our hotel at Ifaty. Red Fody Foudia madagascariensis Common and widespread throughout. Forest Fody Foudia omissa One in full plumage at Ranomafana. Madagascan Silverbill Euodice nana Small numbers on many days of the trip; often rather fleeting. Madagascan Wagtail Motacilla flaviventris Common and widespread throughout. MAMMALS Old World Rats & Mice: Family Muridae Eastern Red Forest Rat Nesomys rufus One of this rather tame forest rat was seen at Ranomafana. Malagasy Carnivores: Family Eupleridae Fanaloka (Malagasy Civet) Fossa fossana A very tame individual, which allowed excellent photo opportunities, was seen at the Nocturne at Ranomafana. Ring-tailed Mongoose Galidia elegans Seen briefly at the viewpoint at Ranomafana. A very attractive animal, with its orange pelage and banded tail. Old World Fruit Bats: Family Pteropodidae Madagascan Flying Fox Pteropus rufus Hundreds at the roost during the day at Berenty. Sportive Lemurs: Family Lepilemuridae White-footed Sportive Lemur Lepilemur leucopus Many of this endearing species seen at Berenty, both on night walks and peering, somewhat surprised, from daytime sleeping holes. Hubbard's Sportive Lemur Lepilemur hubbardi One of this very localized primate seen on our walk at Zombitse; seen peering out of a roosting hole. True Lemurs: Family Lemuridae Grey Bamboo Lemur Hapalemur griseus A family group seen well at Andasibe near the Mad Crested Ibis nest. Greater Baboo Lemur Prolemur simus A family group seen well at Ranomafana as real privilege as only 60 are believed to still exist in the world, Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur Varecia variegata Normally shy and difficult to see, we were treated to sightings of this panda-like lemur as fed on fruits in the tree tops at Mantadia. Ring-tailed Lemur Lemur catta One of the highlights of Berenty was being able to watch habituated family groups of this postcard species interacting. Brown Lemur Eulemur fulvus A family group seen well at Andasibe on arrival! Red-bellied Lemur Eulemur rubriventer A small group seen very well at Ranomafana on two days. Red-fronted Lemur Eulemur rufus Very common and habituated at Berenty, where many were seen. Also seen at Ranomafana when heading on the night walk. Mouse & Dwarf Lemurs: Family Cheirogaleidae Furry-eared Dwarf Lemur Cheirogaleus crossleyi Excellent views watching two at our hotel at Andasibe, just before dinner. Grey Mouse Lemur Microcebus murinus Good views at night in the gallery forest at Berenty. Grey-brown Mouse Lemur Microcebus griseorufus Excellent views watching them waking up at dusk in the spiny forest at Berenty. 12 Limosa Holidays

13 Brown Mouse Lemur Microcebus rufus Watched at close range at the Nocturne at Ranomafana; fantastic close views as it bounded between the trees. The Indri family: Family Indriidae Indri Indri Indri The sounds of the Indri must rate as one of the most evocative sounds of nature worldwide. A major highlight of the trip was hearing these social primates establishing their territorial boundaries at dusk, where the mist forest is filled with their whale-like echoes. We were also unusually lucky to see a small family group as closely as we did at Andasibe, right over our heads. Verreaux s Sifaka Propithecus verreauxi The dancing locomotion of these large white primates as they move across open areas has become famous, and the best place to watch this is at Berenty. We were treated to excellent views of them dancing here. Seen at Zombitse for the first time. Diademed Sifaka Propithecus diadema A close sighting at Mantsdia was a great way to round off the day! Milne-Edwards Sifaka Propithecus edwardsi Excellent views of a family group of this normally elusive lemur were found by Deirdre at Ranomafana. Eastern Woolly Lemur (Avahi) Avahi laniger One on our night walk at Rano and then excellent views of a mother and baby during the day at Mantadia. REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS We saw a large number of reptiles and amphibians on this tour, which we noted each night during the daily log. I ve mentioned the more interesting ones in the report, but haven t included an annotated checklist of them here. If any participants have any questions about them, you re welcome to me. INSECTS/ BUTTERFLIES We saw some interesting butterflies and other insects on this tour, which we noted each night during the daily log. I ve mentioned the more interesting ones in the report, but haven t included an annotated checklist of them here. If any participants have any questions about them, you re welcome to me. 13 Limosa Holidays