WALLACEA & THE GREATER SUNDAS

Transcription

1 899ID2 04/01/99-LC 11/04/98-MH WALLACEA & THE GREATER SUNDAS Bali, Java, Sulawesi, & Halmahera July 17 - August 10, Girding the equator like a string of emeralds, the Spice Islands (known today as the Republic of Indonesia) comprise one of the most extraordinary collection of places, peoples, sights, sounds, tastes, and natural wonders on our planet. Known to naturalists and anthropologists as the Malay Archipelago, Indonesia encompasses more than 17,000 islands ranging almost 6,000 kilometers from the northern tip of unruly Sumatra across some of the world's last extensive areas of tropical rainforest to the rarely explored mountains of Irian Jaya and its spectacular glaciers which define the border with neighboring Papua New Guinea. The world's sixth largest nation, it supports about 12% of the Earth's tropical forests and a vast storehouse of biological wonders and ethnographic curiosities. Of special interest to us, Indonesia hosts a total of some 1500 species of birds including approximately 350 endemics, at least 120 of which are considered threatened. Imagine following in the footsteps of such distinguished forebears as Marco Polo, Ferdinand Magellan, Captain Cook, and the famous Victorian naturalist, Alfred Russell Wallace. Wallace observed that the fauna and flora of the islands of Western Indonesia (Sumatra, Borneo, Java, and Bali) composed almost entirely Malaysian elements, whereas far to the east, New Guinea and its satellite islands harbored an essentially Australian fauna and flora. However, it is the myriad of islands sandwiched between these two continental island groups that is largely responsible for Indonesia's remarkable plethora of avian endemics. Known, appropriately, as Wallacea, the archipelago includes such fascinating islands as Sulawesi (The Celebes), Halmahera, Sumba, Timor, Flores, and Komodo. On this tour you will be able experience, just as Wallace did, the remarkable dichotomy between the faunistically rich continental Sundaic fauna of East Java and Bali and the insular island and therefore highly endemic fauna of Sulawesi together with a number of other oceanic islands of Wallacea. Our tour begins in Bali. Here among the verdant, oh-so-perfect, terraced ricefields, graced with a vibrant Hindu culture, we will truly be birding in the lap of the gods. In Bali Barat National Park, we will keep our fingers crossed for the opportunity to see the almost extinct, but, nevertheless, exquisite Bali Starling. Elsewhere we will wend our way through mist-threaded montane forests in search for yet unseen Indonesian endemics such as the spectacular Javan Kingfisher and its dazzling compatriot the Small Blue Kingfisher; Blue-crowned Barbet; Orange-spotted Bulbul; Sunda Whistling-Thrush; Sunda Flycatcher-Warbler; and Javan Grey-throated White-eye. On Java we will explore little known Baluran National Park located at the extreme eastern end of the island. There, the climate is distinctly drier. Our travels will take us into an African-like savanna and a number of rather special and, in some cases, globally threatened species: Green Peafowl - magnificent but sadly endangered(our chances of seeing it are good); Green Junglefowl; Orange-breasted Green Pigeon;

2 Wallacea 1999, Page 2 Javan Turtle-Dove; Savanna Nightjar; Wreathed Hornbill; Javan Barbet; Banded Pitta; Pearl-cheeked Babbler, Grey-faced Tit-Babbler; Black-winged Starling; and Java Sparrow. Crossing Wallace's line, we will commence our exploration of the oceanic realm known as Wallacea. Clearly there are too many islands for a single visit, so this time, we will focus our attention on the strangely shaped and almost mythical island of Sulawesi. The birds of this island are very different from the Malaysian avifauna immediately to the west. Our birding will focus on Lore Lindu National Park in Sulawesi's central mountains, and the lowland forest of Dumoga-Bone National Park. Lore Lindu hosts a very large percentage of the Sulawesi endemics, including: Sulawesi Serpent-eagle; Barred Honey Buzzard; Small Sparrowhawk; Maleo; Barred Rail; 20 pigeons and doves; 8 parrots; Fiery-billed Malcoha; Ochre-breasted Hawk-owl; Heinrich's (Diabolical) Nightjar (known from just one specimen, it was rediscovered in 1996 by David Bishop and Jared Diamond); Purple Needletail; 10 kingfishers; including some of the world's most spectacular but elusive forest dwelling species; Knobbed Hornbill (a real humdinger); 5 cuckoo-shrikes; the strange Malia and Piping Crow; Great Shortwing; Blue-fronted Flycatcher; Rusty-bellied Fantail; 3 whistlers; Ivory-backed Woodswallow; 4 very special starlings/mynas: Sulawesi Crested and White-necked mynas, Fiery-browed and Grosbeak starlings; and a large group of endemic honeyeaters, flowerpeckers, white-eyes, and munias. From Sulawesi we will fly almost due east to the tiny volcanic island of Ternate. After collecting supplies we will board a large car-ferry and cross the sound to Halmahera. Made famous by the rediscovery of Wallace's Standardwing (Bird of Paradise), the forests of the central peninsula harbor a completely new set of birds, compared to those encountered to date, including such cosmic species as: Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove; White Cockatoo; Chattering Lory; Great-billed Parrot; Moluccan Owlet-nightjar; Blue-and-white Kingfisher; Blyth's Hornbill; the stunning Ivory-breasted Pitta; a variety of honeyeaters, monarchs and whistlers, and the peculiar Paradise Crow. Our exploration of these fabulous islands will be greatly enhanced by the recent publication of David's beautifully illustrated Field Guide to the Birds of Wallacea which covers in detail all the birds of this region. July 17-18, Days 1-2: Fly from the USA to Bali, Indonesia. Our group departs Houston on the morning of July 17 and arrives Bali in the evening, July 18. After clearing customs and immigrations, you will be met by your tour leader David Bishop or a representative of our ground operators who will transfer you to the hotel for a much needed rest. NIGHT: Patra Jasa Resort, Bali July 19, Day 3: Drive to Baluran National Park, East Java. After a leisurely breakfast we will make the long but very attractive drive to the far western end of the island. If permission is granted, we will watch for the endangered Bali Starling as it comes to its late afternoon roost. We will then take the short ferry ride across to East Java and our hotel for the next two nights. NIGHT: Hotel Manyar, Banyuwangi July 20, Day 4: Baluran National Park, East Java. We must rise early this morning for the one hour drive to this little known, but nevertheless very important and most interesting reserve. Here at the

3 Wallacea 1999, Page 3 extreme eastern tip of Java, climatic conditions are generally hot and dry in the lowlands with rains only during the monsoon from December to March. Unlike the true moist tropical forests of West Java, the vegetation here is more akin to the Acacia savannas one is more familiar with in East Africa. There are also patches of monsoon forest in the wetter areas along creek beds, and extensive areas of open grassland where the rare Banteng (a species of wild cattle) and feral Water Buffalo graze. Today we will investigate these and other habitats in the search for such species as: Lesser Adjutant - occasionally feeds along the shoreline; Black-shouldered Kite, Short-toed Eagle, Crested Goshawk, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Black-thighed Falconet - a handsome and aggressive miniature, Spotted Kestrel, Red Junglefowl - uncommon; Green Junglefowl - common, one of the specialties of this reserve; Green Peafowl - sadly now severely threatened, this reserve is its most important stronghold; we have a good chance of seeing this spectacular bird; Barred Buttonquail, Pink-necked and Orange-breasted Green Pigeons, Zebra Dove, Emerald Ground-Dove, Red-breasted Parakeet, Banded Bay and Little Bronze Cuckoos, Greater Coucal, Bay Owl - this has been seen on previous trips but is very shy; Collared Scops Owl, Buffy Fish Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, Large-tailed and Savanna Nightjars, Javan Kingfisher, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Wreathed and Oriental Pied Hornbills, Lineated and Blue-eared Barbets, Laced, White-bellied and Sunda Brown-capped Woodpeckers, Banded Pitta - the very distinctive Javan race; like all pittas this will, no doubt, lead us a merry dance; Australasian Bushlark, Large Cuckoo-Shrike, Small Minivet, Black-crested Bulbul, Racket-tailed Treepie, Grey-faced Tit-Babbler, White-rumped Shama, Striated Grassbird, Common Tailorbird, Brown Prinia, Hill Blue and Mangrove Blue Flycatchers, Black-naped Monarch, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Mangrove Whistler, Black-winged Starling, Brown-throated and Scarlet Sunbirds, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker - a very handsome Indonesian endemic; Java Sparrow and Java Munia. NIGHT: Manyar Hotel, Banyuwangi July 21, Day 5: Drive via the Balinese Mountains back to Denpasar. This morning we will cross the channel once again between East Java and Bali and drive into Bali Barat National Park. Here we will have another opportunity to search for the severely endangered Bali Starling as well as any species we may have missed the previous day in Baluran. As the day warms up and bird activity declines we will wind our way up through the steeply terraced rice fields to the cool, moist and still largely forested Balinese mountains. During the afternoon we will explore the small but attractive Tamblingan forest reserve. This is a particularly beautiful area with shimmering crater lakes amidst lush, moss draped forests, emerald rice fields, ancient temples and a wonderful sense of serenity. Don't forget to bring your camera. Birds we may encounter include: Black Eagle; Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon; Javan Kingfisher - a gorgeous endemic regularly found at the edge of rice fields; Blue-eared and Blue-crowned Barbets; Lesser Cuckoo-Shrike; Orange-spotted Bulbul; Large-billed Crow; Pearl-cheeked Babbler; Lesser Shortwing - this remarkable songster is a real challenge to see; White-crowned Forktail; Sunda Whistling-Thrush; Orange-headed Thrush; Sunda Flycatcher-Warbler; Mountain Tailorbird; Fulvous-chested and Little Pied flycatchers; Golden Whistler; Philippine Glossy Starling; Brown Honeyeater; and Mountain White-eye. During the late afternoon we will descend once again to the coast and our hotel near Denpasar. NIGHT: Patra Jasa Hotel, Bali July 22, Day 6: Fly to North-Central Sulawesi. Our flight today is a dawn departure, so we must be

4 Wallacea 1999, Page 4 awake early. Have your camera ready - the views as we head east along the coast of Java's volcanic mountains are very impressive. Once on the island of Sulawesi we will have crossed Wallace's line and entered a completely new world. Most of the birds we see will be new, many of them either Sulawesi or Wallacea endemics, as are the plants, butterflies, and mammals found here. During the afternoon we will commence our exploration of Sulawesi with a visit to an area of xerophytic scrub and foothill forest. Just a 30-minute drive from our hotel, this rather atypical habitat harbors a number of interesting species, including Javan Pond-heron; Red Turtle-dove; White-faced Pigeon; Emerald Ground-dove; Purple-winged Roller; Knobbed Hornbill; White-rumped Cuckoo-shrike; White-winged Triller; White-breasted Woodswallow; Flyeater; Yellow White-eye; Grey-sided Flowerpecker; Black and Olive-backed sunbirds; and Pale-headed, Scaly-breasted, Chestnut and Black-faced Munias. NIGHT: Palu Golden Hotel July 23-27, Days 7-11: Lore Lindu National Park. During the next five days we will drive into the Lore Lindu National Park from Palu along a brand new, paved road. Although accommodations, of a sort, do exist at the edge of the park, our leader David Bishop feels that they are really too basic and too cramped for us to use. Thus, the plan will be to work out of Palu, where you can return nightly to a comfortable hotel with hot and cold running water, and air conditioned rooms. This decision was confirmed by the construction of the new paved road which enables us to access the birding in not a great deal more time than it would have taken us from the accommodations described above. On one morning, we will depart especially early in order to drive to the high pass at 5200 feet. The remaining mornings, we will depart at 4:00 a.m.- 4:30 a.m., depending on the timing of dawn. We will return in sufficient time for an early dinner and an early sleep. Breakfast and lunch, together with a regular supply of snacks and drinks, will be prepared in the field by our ground agents. Transport will be in comfortable, air-conditioned vehicles with 3-4 participants per vehicle. Lore Lindu is the largest and finest of Sulawesi's national parks. Although much of this magnificent reserve comprises high-rugged mountains densely covered with montane hill forest. Lowland habitats are less well represented, descending to 1600 feet. As a result of Lore Lindu's elevation range, the rich diversity of habitats supports approximately 85% of Sulawesi's endemic and resident forest birds. However, what is particularly striking is that most of the bird species we encounter will be totally different from those on nearby Borneo, just a few miles to the west. Perhaps nowhere is the effect of Wallace's Line more striking than in these forests. On the slopes of Gunung Rorekatimbu, the highest peak in the park at 8000 feet (2300 meters), we will search for a number of upper montane specialties amidst pristine forest which at the highest levels is dominated by a variety of conifers. Lower down we will find mid-montane forest with trees up to 200 feet tall and quite a different selection of birds. At the lower altitudes there is still some lowland rainforest, although inevitably it is these areas which have been disturbed by logging and collection of forest materials. The lower valleys are largely cultivated and provide a pleasantly tranquil setting as we look for a number of open country species. In the forest interior, we will seek out, with the aid of David's extensive tape recordings, some of Sulawesi's most elusive specialties: Snoring and Blue-faced rails; Blue-breasted Pitta; Great Shortwing; Sulawesi Thrush; the almost mystical Geomalia; and Chestnut-backed Bush-warbler. Exploring these different habitats will ensure that we see a wide range of species during our stay. In

5 Wallacea 1999, Page 5 densely forested areas the forest edges are often the most productive, especially in the early morning, and we shall take full advantage of the dirt roads and logging trails through the forest. Barred Honey-buzzards sweep low over the forest, noisy acrobatic flocks of Golden-mantled Racket-tails (Parrots) fly swiftly over the canopy, and Purple Needletails soar high above us. In particular we will look for fruiting trees, since these are the best places to find specialist fruit-eaters such as the gorgeous Red-eared, Superb, Black-chinned and Maroon-chinned fruit-doves; booming White-bellied, Grey-headed, and Green imperial pigeons; and the magnificent Knobbed Hornbill. Flowering trees are favored by a variety of flowerpeckers and honeyeaters, including the endemic Lesser and Greater Sulawesi honeyeaters. We will spend the first two days in this area birding the lowland and foothill forests to approximately 3200 feet (1000 meters). Most of our birding will be along a brand-new paved road (as of June 1996) through a mixture of primary forest, secondary woodland, scrub, and cultivation. As we progress further and further south, we will enter increasingly better habitat until upon reaching the Lore Lindu National Park we find ourselves surrounded by magnificent undisturbed hill forests. A number of trails into the forest will enable us to search for some of Sulawesi's more elusive species during the heat of the day. Birds we may encounter include: Woolly-necked Stork; Jerdon's Baza (uncommon); Barred Honey-Buzzard; Sulawesi Serpent-Eagle; Spot-tailed Goshawk; Rufous-bellied Eagle; Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle; Oriental Hobby (uncommon); Red Junglefowl; Barred Rail; Isabelline Bush-hen; Red Turtle-Dove; Brown Cuckoo-Dove; White-faced Pigeon; Maroon-chinned and Superb fruit-doves; Green and White-bellied imperial pigeons (the latter, a most handsome pigeon, has a very distinctive, loud call); Ornate Lorikeet; Large Hanging-Parrot; Golden-mantled Racket-tail; Blue-backed Parrot; Sulawesi Hawk-Cuckoo (regularly heard but extremely difficult to see); Indonesian Cuckoo; Gould's Bronze-Cuckoo; Drongo Cuckoo; Black-billed Koel; the strange Fiery-billed Malkoha; Grey-rumped Tree-Swift; Moluccan Swiftlet; Purple Needletail; Purple-bearded Bee-eater (a truly cosmic endemic); Purple-winged Roller (yet another stunning endemic); Knobbed and Sulawesi Dwarf hornbills; Sulawesi Pygmy and Ashy woodpeckers; White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike; Sulawesi Cicadabird; Hair-crested Drongo; Piping Crow (a very aberrant member of its family); Red-backed Thrush; Sulawesi Babbler; Rufous-throated Flycatcher (difficult to see, it inhabits dense and very spiny rattan tangles); Citrine Flycatcher; Ivory-backed Woodswallow; Sulawesi Crested Myna (a real gem); White-necked Myna; Grosbeak Starling; Yellow-sided and Grey-sided flowerpeckers; and Black-fronted White-eye. Many of Sulawesi's endemic birds inhabit montane forests above 3200 feet (1000 meters). The road on which we have been birding the last few days eventually ascends to about 7000 feet through some magnificent upper elevation forest. The views over the surrounding hills and valleys are quite something. Unfortunately there are no accommodations here, so our only option is to depart very early in the morning so as to be at the forest by dawn. We'll return to our hotel in good time for an early night's sleep. On the first day we will concentrate on the higher elevation species, so that on the second day we will hopefully not need to travel quite so far. This should be a very exciting couple of days, and we will see a number of endemics only observed by a handful of other birders. Species we may encounter include: Sulawesi Goshawk (uncommon); Small Sparrowhawk (elusive); Oriental Hobby; Sunda Teal; Snoring and Blue-faced rails (both extremely difficult to see-if time permits we will search an area of damp hill forest where your leader has previously recorded both species); Sulawesi Woodcock (collected from the park area, this species-only known from nine specimens- has never been reliably observed in the wild); Red-eared Fruit-Dove (a really gorgeous beast); Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon; Sombre Pigeon (shy and very difficult to find); Yellow-and-green Lorikeet; Golden-mantled Racket-tail; Indonesian Cuckoo; White-bellied Swiftlet; Scaly-bellied Wood-Kingfisher; Purple-bearded Bee-eater; Cerulean and Pygmy cuckoo-shrikes; Malia (a very distinctive and interesting endemic); Geomalia (recently observed by David

6 Wallacea 1999, Page 6 Bishop at the highest elevations); Great Shortwing; Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler; Sulawesi Leaf-Warbler; Blue-fronted Flycatcher; Island Verditer; Rusty-bellied Fantail; Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed whistlers; Fiery-browed Myna; Lesser and Greater Streaked honeyeaters; Sulawesi Scarlet Honeyeater; Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker; Mountain White-eye; Streaky-headed Dark-eye; Blue-faced Parrot-Finch (very elusive and uncommon); and perhaps the smartly colored Sunda Serin (the Gng Rorekatimbu population is erythristic--reddish colored.) Mammals are rarely encountered in these forests; however, there is always a possibility of such specialties as Mountain Anoa, the strange, pig-like Babirussa, Bear Cuscus, Sulawesi Tarsier, and Black Macaque, in addition to a number of tree-shrews and squirrels. Lore Lindu is also an outstanding place to see a good variety of butterflies and dragonflies. NIGHTS: Palu Golden Hotel July 28-29, Days 12-13: Drive Palu to Gorontalo. Today we will drive northward along the west and then east coasts of the northern peninsula. Our journey passes through an intriguing landscape of rice-fields, vast, unexplored, forest clad mountains as well as some fine areas of roadside forest, mangroves and coastal swamps. This area is virtually unbirded and almost anything is possible as our leader discovered during a recent foray along this route. Some of the birds we may encounter include: the endangered Milky Stork, Woolly-necked Stork, a host of waterbirds including Sunda Teal and Comb-crested Jacana; Spot-tailed Goshawk; Black Eagle; Silvered Imperial Pigeon; Great-billed Kingfisher; White-rumped Cuckoo-shrike; and Lemon-bellied White-eye. NIGHT: July 28- Moutong July 29- Gorontalo July 30, Day 14: Drive to Dumoga-Bone National Park. This morning we will make our way eastward along the coast, to the south of the Dumoga Bone National Park, through some of the most fascinating and attractive coastal scenery in all of Indonesia. Charming, traditional villages hidden away in aquamarine, coral-fringed coves interspersed between patches of forest, dry scrub, and woodland, make for intriguing birding and delightful journey. Eventually we turn inland and cross a superb section of hill forest that lies within the Dumoga - Bone National Park before descending to Toraut and our base for the next three nights. NIGHT: Wallacea Cottages, Dumoga-Bone National Park July 31, August 1,2, Days 15-17: Dumoga-Bone National Park. Recently renamed Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, this important reserve encompasses 285,000 hectares and is Sulawesi's largest protected area. Although the park ascends to over 2000 meters, we will concentrate our efforts on lowland areas, especially the interior of primary forest. Here, in addition to a number of species we will have encountered in Lore Lindu to the south, we have a good chance of finding some of the more elusive lowland specialists. In addition, we may encounter Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail and Pied Cuckoo-shrike, whose world distribution is confined to Sulawesi's northern peninsula. Species we may find include Lesser and Grey-headed fish-eagles; Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk; Sunda Teal; the rather strange and sadly endangered Maleo; Philippine Scrubfowl; Sulawesi Ground-dove (tough); Pink-necked and Grey-cheeked green pigeons; the lovely but elusive Maroon-chinned Fruit-dove; Silver-tipped

7 Wallacea 1999, Page 7 Imperial-pigeon; Small Sulawesi Hanging-parrot; Channel-billed Cuckoo; Minahassa Masked Owl (this is the only site for which there are any observations of this little known endemic); Sulawesi Nightjar; Green-backed Kingfisher (gives a most lovely, un-kingfisher like call); Lilac-cheeked and Sulawesi Dwarf kingfishers; and with luck, the endemic race of Hooded Pitta. NIGHT: Wallacea Cottages, Dumoga-Bone National Park August 3, Day 18: To Manado. After a final morning's birding, we will drive further eastward, again on a newly paved road, to the city of Manado. Ever since Wallace explored the region, the Minahassa region has beguiled birders and naturalists alike. We will make regular stops along the way, for anything that draws our fancy. NIGHT: Novotel Hotel, Manado August 4, Day 19: Fly Manado to Ternate, Drive to Halmahera. This morning we will take an early morning flight eastward to the tiny, volcanic island of Ternate. At last we are in the heart of the Spice Islands. This fascinating, mystical island, its neighbors, and their crops of Nutmeg and Cloves, provided a powerful inducement to early European exploration of the "East Indies." As a result, much of what we know of the region's birds dates from those early days. After lunch we will take a large car ferry across the sound and in the shadow of neighboring Tidore, to the central isthmus of Halmahera. NIGHT: Sidangoli Guest House, Halmahera August 5-6, Days 20-21: Halmahera. At long last we on the mystical island of Halmahera. For the next 48 hours we'll treat ourselves to some very special and little-known birds, including the famed Wallace's Standardwing. Other birds we may see include Dusky and, if we are very lucky, Moluccan scrubfowl; Gurney's Eagle; Rufous-collared Sparrowhawk; Moluccan Goshawk; Blue-capped, Grey-hooded and Scarlet-breasted fruit-doves; Spectacled and Chestnut-bellied imperial-pigeons; White Cockatoo; Large-billed Parrot; Chattering and Violet-necked lories; Moluccan Hanging-parrot; Goliath Coucal; Moluccan Scops-owl; Moluccan Boobook; Moluccan Owlet-nightjar; Blue-and-white, Sombre and Common Paradise kingfishers; Blyth's Hornbill; the exquisite Ivory-breasted Pitta; Halmahera and Moluccan cuckoo-shrikes; Golden Bulbul; Dusky Oriole; Paradise Crow (a true bird-of-paradise, most similar to the Manucodes); Long-billed Crow; White-naped Monarch; Drab Whistler; Dusky and White-streaked friarbirds; Flame-breasted Flowerpecker; and Creamy-throated White-eye. NIGHT: Sidangoli Guest House, Halmahera August 7, Day 22: Return to Ternate. After final morning's birding we will return to Ternate and a welcome hot shower. NIGHT: Ternate August 8, Day 23: Fly Ternate to Manado. This morning we will make the short flight from Ternate to Manado. If time permits we will visit the world famous coral reefs surrounding nearby Bunaken Island during the afternoon. NIGHT: Novotel Manado

8 Wallacea 1999, Page 8 August 9, Day 24: Fly Manado to Denpassar, Bali. This morning we will make the fascinating flight over the convoluted island of Sulawesi, south to the city of Ujung Pandang and on to Bali. NIGHT: Patra Jasa Hotel, Bali. August 10, Day 25: Fly Bali to Jakarta to USA. Our tour concludes today after breakfast. Those continuing on the Lesser Sundas tour will depart this morning for Waingapu. Those returning home will have the day free. The Patra Jasa Hotel will provide a transfer for you to the airport for your evening flight back to the USA. TOUR SIZE: This tour will be limited to 12 participants. TOUR LEADER: David Bishop David Bishop has spent much of the past 22 years studying the birds and natural history of the Oriental region, particularly Indonesia, in addition to New Guinea and the Southwest Pacific. Once a police officer amid the streets of London's West End, David has emerged as an acknowledged authority on the birds of these exotic regions. His enthusiasm for these places and their birds is contagious. This, along with his skills in locating wildlife, sharing what he sees with others, and conversing with local people in their native language, ensures you the finest quality tour. David has undertaken a number of expeditions to previously unexplored regions, such as the Van Rees Mountains of Irian Jaya, to survey little-known and, in many cases, globally threatened species. This has resulted in the rediscovery of a number of species including the incomparable Wallace's Standardwing, a bizarre bird-of-paradise, and together with Jared Diamond in 1996, Heinrich's Nightjar, previously known from just a single specimen. This important work continues. In July, 1997, David, together with Brian Coates, published A Guide to the Birds of Wallacea (Sulawesi, the Moluccas, and Lesser Sundas). David lives with his wife and two children on three acres of subtropical forest just north of Sydney, Australia. FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: The fee for the tour is $4990 per person in double occupancy from Denpasar. This includes all meals from lunch on Day 3 to breakfast on Day 25, accommodations as stated in the itinerary, ground transportation during the tour, internal flights, and guide services provided by the tour leaders. It does not include airfare from your home to Jakarta and return, airport departure taxes, alcoholic beverages, special gratuities, phone calls, laundry, or items of a personal nature. Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration, a small-party supplement may have to be charged. The single supplement for this tour is $640. You will be charged a single supplement if you desire single accommodations, or if you prefer to share but have no roommate and we cannot provide one for you. Singles may not be available at all locations. Those taking the Wallacea tour in combination with the Lesser Sundas tour will receive a discount of $ per tour. TOUR REGISTRATION: To register for this tour, complete the VENT registration form and return it with a deposit of $300 per person. If you prefer to register by phone, a deposit must be made with Visa,

9 Wallacea 1999, Page 9 MasterCard, or American Express at the time of registration. Full payment of the tour fee is due 80 days prior to the tour departure. CANCELLATION POLICY: Refunds are made according to the following schedule: If cancellation is made 80 days or more before departure date, the deposit less $75 per person is refundable. If cancellation is made between 80 and 60 days before departure date, the deposit is not refundable, but any payments covering the balance of the fee will be refunded. If cancellation is made fewer than 60 days before departure date, no refund is available. This policy and fee schedule also applies to pre- and post-trip extensions. We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation insurance to protect yourself. Application forms are available through the VENT office. Waiver for pre-existing conditions is available; however, stipulations apply. If you cancel: Your refund will be: 80 days or more before departure date Your deposit minus $75. Between 80 and 60 days before departure No refund of the deposit, but any payments on the balance will be refunded. Fewer than 60 days before departure date No refund available. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours is not a participant in the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund. This transaction is not covered by the California Travel Consumer Restitution Fund. You are not eligible to file a claim against that fund in the event of Victor Emanuel's default. CASOT # AIR INFORMATION: Victor Emanuel Travel is a full-service travel agency and wholly owned subsidiary of Victor Emanuel Nature Tours (VENT). Victor Emanuel Travel will be happy to make any domestic or international air travel arrangements from your home and return. Please feel free to call the VENT office to confirm your air arrangements. Those participants making air arrangements through Victor Emanuel Travel will receive a $200 discount off the tour price. Those combining Wallacea with Lesser Sundas, will receive this discount off the Wallacea tour only. Climate: During the tour, you will experience a wide range of temperatures and climate, from the 70s and high 80s in the lowlands, to the 40s and 50s at higher elevations. We will almost certainly encounter some rain, possibly heavy (unlikely except at night). Clothing: Lightweight, dull-colored field clothing is recommended for the lowlands. This includes several pairs of pants and cool, comfortable shirts. Long-sleeved shirts, a dull-colored hat, and sunglasses are recommended for protection from the sun and mosquitos. Long socks are very useful so that you can tuck your pants in and further avoid biting insects. A warm sweater is essential for the early morning on Gng. Rorekatimbu. Raingear is also essential, including waterproof pants which are very useful in case we encounter rain while in a boat. Dress will be casual, although you might prefer something slightly dressier for the hotels on Java and Manado. Dark, muted colors help to prevent spooking the birds, especially when we are in the forest.

10 Wallacea 1999, Page 10 Please remember Indonesia is a predominantly Muslim country and rather conservative about standards of dress. Women should dress modestly: no halter tops, shorts, or miniskirts please. Note: Excellent 24-hour laundry facilities are available at most locations at which we stay. Boots: Although there will be few if any really rigorous walks or uphill jaunts, we will encounter mud, slippery surfaces, and stony ground. Add the fact that you are on your feet most of the day, and it becomes MOST IMPORTANT that you provide suitable protection and support for your feet and ankles. Light-weight boots (gortex or some similar material) that come up to the ankle and have a good lug-sole are ideal. Many people are apprehensive that these will be too heavy; this is not true. The protection, grip and day-long comfort such boots afford is far superior to the seemingly comfortable sneakers/training shoes. Documents: A current U.S. passport valid for at least 6 months after arrival and your return airline ticket are required for entry into Indonesia. Tourist visas of two months' duration are available upon entry into Indonesia. Health precautions: According to the Centers for Disease control (CDC) in Atlanta at , you should be up to date on both your tetanus and polio boosters. Hepatitis A and B vaccines are recommended. Malaria is present, and participants are strongly advised to seek the advice of their physician about an appropriate prophylactic. However, Meflaquine is generally the medication of choice and should be taken beginning two weeks prior to departure, once a week throughout the tour, and for four weeks after completion of the tour. Recent use of this drug indicates no side effects but good protection in areas of Chloroquine-resistant malaria. Participants should also bring a supply of their personal medication, including aspirin, a good cortisone cream, etc. Insect protection: Chiggers, mosquitos, and other insects can be a problem. Regular use of the lotion Cutters or Off in combination with the pump-action Off is most effective. We recommend that you bring one bottle of each. Please, no aerosol cans! Baggage: Please try to limit your luggage to one medium-to-large suitcase and a carry-on bag. You should also pack a duffle. As a precaution, we recommend you pack your binoculars, a change of clothing, your walking shoes, travel documents, and personal medications in your carry-on bag. Items to bring: Bring a flashlight, camera film, batteries, handy-wipes, alarm clock, swim suit; also a water bottle, wash cloth, towel, light day-pack, collapsible umbrella (the latter is very useful and should be carried at all times); mosquito net, sheet sleeping bag, and either a lightweight sleeping bag or additional sheet for our nights on Halmahera. Your leader will have a Questar; however, if you own a spotting scope, you may want to bring it too. We will be birding from roadsides or open trails for much of the time, and a scope can be very useful for seeing such treetop birds as the beautiful fruit-doves and most of the parrots and lorikeets. Electricity: Most hotels in Indonesia use volts, 50 cycles, and two-pronged plugs.

11 Wallacea 1999, Page 11 CURRENCY: Indonesian Rupiah: 1 USD = 9000IDR as of March This exchange rate is currently fluctuating. MISC: Departure Tax -2500IDR Language - Bahasa Indonesia. English is widely understood. SUGGESTED READING: ** Recommended for this tour. Bangs, Richard & Kallen, Christian. Islands of Fire, Islands of Spice: Exploring the Wild Places of Indonesia. Sierra Club Books, Photos and description of Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Bali, Sulawesi, Maluku and Irian Jaya. Bellwood, Peter. Man's Conquest of the Pacific. Oxford: Oxford University Press, Excellent information on the prehistory of southeast Asia and Oceania. Bernard, H-U (editor). South-east Asia Wildlife Insight Guide. Apa Publications, Blair, Lawrence and Loren. Ring of Fire. New York: Bantam, Account of a 10-year exploration of Indonesia by two brothers. Includes Bali, Java, Komodo, Aru and other areas. Very good reading and good photos. **Coates, Brian J. and Bishop, K. David. A Guide to the Birds of Wallacea. Alderley, Queensland Australia: Dove Publications Ltd., (This comprehensive guide deals with and illustrates all the known species of this little known region, and is available from ABA Books, LA Audubon, and Natural History Book Sellers, UK. All participants on this tour should carry a copy of this book with them). Flannery, T. Mammals of the South-west Pacific and Moluccan Islands. Australia: Reed, Forbes, H. A Naturalist's Wanderings in the Eastern Archipelago: A Narrative of Travel and Exploration from AMS reprint, 1977 (originally published in 1885). Holt, C. Art in Indonesia: Continuity and Change. Cornell University Press, Detailed treatment of Indonesian art. Huxley, Francis. The Dragon. New York: Collier, Background on Komodo Dragons. Indonesia. Lonely Planet, Travel Survival Kit A useful travel handbook to the entire country. Jepson, P. & R. Ounstead (Editors). Birding Indonesia. Singapore. Periplus Editions.(A very attractive and useful introduction to birdwatching in Indonesia.) **Mackinnon, J. & K. Phillips. The Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java, and Bali. The Greater Sundas. Oxford, England: Oxford University Press, 1997.(Participants on the East Java, Bali, Sulawesi and Halmahera trip should carry this field guide, as it illustrates and describes all the species they will encounter at those two locations. Please note that the birds of these locations are very different from those you will encounter in Wallacea. The Wallacea book will only cover a few of the more widespread species we are likely to encounter in East Java and Bali.) McNeeley, J.A. and P.A. Wachtel. Soul of the Tiger. New York: Doubleday, A superb classic, discusses the interweaving of Oriental myth with conservation realities. Monk, K.A. The Ecology of Nusa Tenggara and Maluku. Singapore: Periplus Editions, *Muller, K. Spice Islands: The Moluccas. Singapore: Periplus Editions, By far the best contemporary guide to these little visited islands. *Muller, K.(revision editor) Sulawesi, Indonesia. Singapore: Periplus Adventure Guide, 1995.

12 Wallacea 1999, Page 12 photographs of Java, Sumatra, Bali, Kalimantan and Sulawesi. Tweedie, M.W.F. Mammals of Malaysia. Malaysia: Longman, *Wallace, A. R. The Malay Archipelago. Dove Publications, 1962 (reprint). A superb account of this great naturalist's travels and specimen collecting and observations throughout Indonesia. Whitmore, T. Tropical Forests of the Far East. Oxford: Oxford University Press, Whitten, A.L., Mustafa, M. & G.S. Henderson. The Ecology of Sulawesi. Indonesia: Gadjah Mada University Press. Whitten, A.L. Wild Indonesia. The wildlife and scenery of the Indonesian Archipelago. London: U.K. New Holland Publishers Ltd., (A super photographic overview of the natural history of Indonesia.) Zich. "Indonesia: Two Worlds Time Apart". Washington, D.C.: National Geographic. (Jan. 1989). TIPPING: As noted in our itineraries, tipping (restaurants, porters, drivers, local guides) is included on VENT tours. However, if you feel one or both of your VENT leaders or any local guides have given you exceptional service, it is entirely appropriate to tip. We emphasize that such tips are not expected and are entirely optional. RESPONSIBILITY: Victor Emanuel Nature Tours, Inc. (VENT) and/or its Agents act only as agents for the passenger in regard to travel, whether by railroad, motorcar, motorcoach, boat, or airplane and assume no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or irregularity which may be occasioned either by reason of defect in any vehicle or for any reason whatsoever, or through the acts or default of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the tour. VENT and its agents can accept no responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, or other causes. All such losses or expenses will have to be borne by the passenger, as tour rates provide for arrangements only for the time stated. The right is reserved to substitute hotels of similar category for those indicated and to make any changes in the itinerary where deemed necessary or caused by changes in air schedules. The right is reserved to cancel any tour prior to departure, in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. The right is reserved to substitute another leader for the first leader on any tour. Where this is necessary, notification will be given to tour members and they will have the right to cancel their participation and receive a full refund. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made in sufficient time to avoid penalties. The prices of the tours are based on tariffs and exchange rates in effect January 22, 1999, and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. The right is reserved to decline to accept or to retain any person as a member of any tour. Baggage is at owner's risk entirely. The airlines concerned and their agents and affiliates are not to be held responsible for any act, omission, or event during the time passengers are not on board their aircraft. The passenger ticket in use by said airlines, when issued, shall constitute the sole contract between the airlines and the purchaser of these tickets and/or passenger. The services of any I.A.T.A.N. carrier may be used for these tours, and transportation within the United States may be provided by any member carrier of the Airline Reporting Corporation.