In search of Kingfishers, Owls, Doves & Pittas in Sulawesi and Halmahera, Indonesia

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1 In search of Kingfishers, Owls, Doves & Pittas in Sulawesi and Halmahera, Indonesia Dates: 4 th 26 th November 2017 We could not fit in with any organised tours to Sulawesi & Halmahera and because of annual leave restrictions we couldn t do the full standard Birdtour Asia itinerary, our preferred option after looking at alternative tour companies, even as a private tour. So we decided after discussion with Rob Hutchinson from birdtourasia not to go for the Scrubfowl on Halmahera (avoiding long 8 hour drive for a single bird) and also dropped Lompobatang to fit in with our preferred dates. The cost for the private tour was competitively priced considering it was a custom tour with a dedicated guide Carlos Bocos who is Spanish but lives in Manado on Sulawesi and was an expert on Indonesian birds. Overview Flew with emirates from Manchester to Jakarta via Dubai. Arrived in Jakarta on 5 th November Stayed in Airport Hotel. Early flight to Manado on Sulawesi on 6 th November and transfer to the nearby Tangkoko-Dua Saudara National Park staying in Tangkoko Lodge. November 7 th and 8 th in wonderful park of Tangkoko with its forest rising from coastal to submontane. Evening of 8 th November travel to Tomohon for an overnight stay at Onong s Resort. November 9th we visit the nearby remnant forest patches of Gunung Mahawu, then PM we make the long drive to Kotamobagu, our base for the next four nights. Stayed in Kotamobagu at the Patra Jasa Hotel as local lodge is full, although we do have use of a room and lunch there on a few days. November 10 th,11 th and 12th explore several areas of the Dumoga-Bone National Park. November 13 th early start to go north of Kotamobagu to another national park, Gunung Ambang. Then night in Manado. November 14 th flight directly to Halmahera and from there transfer to the Weda Bay Resort. 14 th 18 th birding in Weda Bay and Nickle Mine area for high elevation species. November 18 th speed boat across to Ternate and flight to Makassar November 19 th visit the limestone karst forest at Karaenta, then PM flight to Palu drive to Lore Lindu November 20 th 21 st and 22 nd from Sendy s Guest House daily forays to the higher reaches of the park. November 23th morning at Lore Lindu the drive to Palu via Biramaru night in Palu. November 24 th Flight Palu to Jakarta on Java. November 25 th and 26 th in Jakarta November 27 th fly home to Manchester Day by Day Report Day 0 and Day 1 We arrived in Jakarta in late afternoon and had booked a nights accommodation through booking.com in the Jakarta Airport Hotel, which is in Terminal 2 where Emirates, Etihad and most international flights land. It was a really nice hotel for around 40 and had the benefit of views over two aspects of

2 the airport and gave us our first life tick Javan Munia 5 of them sitting on a wire over some grass. Only other birds were Black Kite and Pacific Swallow. We had booked the first flight out of Jakarta to get a complete day in Sulawesi, this meant getting the hotel Shuttle bus to Terminal 3 (for Garuda flights) at 4.00am and grabbing some coffee and a pastry before our 5.40 flight to Manado (we would get used to early starts). We arrived without incident and met up with our guide Carlos (who lives in Manado) and driver Mike and quickly headed up towards Tangkoko. Carlos asked me if I wanted to get a local SIM for my phone as Wi-Fi was going to be pretty patchy (something I ve done in the past), I expected to pay a reasonable price but R35,000 just over 2 was excellent value and the girl in the shop even fitted it for me. 5GB was enough for me to use and share connection with Sarah for over 3 weeks but top-ups were only about 1 if you needed one. Having been travelling for quite a while this morning Sarah asked for a quick leg stretch and some fresh air; about an hour in to our car journey and so our Sulawesi birding began with Glossy, Uniform and then Carlos pointed out our first Sulawesi Swiftlets. There was also a Sahul Sunbird, Grey Sided Flowerpecker and we could hear Sulawesi Babbler. A little further up the road and we were in the edge of Tangkoko forest and we had the first real target birds a colourful Sulawesi Roller and a Minhassa Racket-tail (albeit only a female). Only other bird on the way to Tangkoko Lodge was a fly over Green Imperial Pigeon. We had just dropped our bags on the room floor and kicked off our boots when Carlos knocked; he had a day roosting Owl. We quickly found our sandals and before lunch we had added Sulawesi Scops Owl (looking into the sun so photo isn t brilliant). Carlos mentioned that he likes to work hard to get all the possible targets so if we were up for it we would be doing quite a bit of owling, we were, who doesn t like a bit of night birding. Like most of our tour the food for lunch and dinner was local and consisted of fish, chicken, rice and corn fritters with some fresh local fruit. It was really pretty good throughout, with spicy chilli sauce to add if you needed it. This afternoon we would take a trip into the mangroves for a couple of target birds and then spend late afternoon early evening in the forest. The boat trip gave us Striated Heron, White-bellied Sea Eagle before we had flight views and then a good sighting of Great-billed Kingfisher, we then added Ruddy Kingfisher (separate sub-species) but we just couldn t find the target White-rumped Cuckooshrike. We then headed into the forest and added a couple of really good birds Green-backed Kingfisher a real cracker and Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher another gem. We decided not to try for the Tarsier as light was really poor in the target area and instead only added poor flight view of Knobbed Hornbill near their nesting tree and a Sulawesi Babbler. As the last light of day faded we tried to call Ochre-bellied Boobook but despite three calling birds we just could not get to see any perched birds and gave up when we heard a Minhassa Masked Owl call and then seemingly get closer and respond to our calling; something not seen very well in flight could have been the Owl, the Boobook or a large bat so nothing added. Instead we agreed to get here before dawn to try this area for owls in the morning. Still an excellent introduction to Sulawesi. Tangkoko Day 2 Breakfast in the lodge at and then drive to track to walk to the reserve, on 1 mile walk along track towards the forest we heard Sulawesi Nightjar calling very closely but we decided to push on and get into the forest in the pitch dark before the Minhassa became inactive. Although we got there in good time there was no further call from the owl but Carlos called at regular intervals as he hoped to

3 coax it in and then find it s day roost even if we couldn t see it in the dark. As the first weak light entered the forest the Ochre-bellied Boobooks were still calling but they didn t come very close, however Carlos thought he knew the rough area where the birds would roost. Only bird we saw was Sulawesi Scops Owl which seemed to be the easiest Owl to call in on the whole trip. We had a local guide with us this morning, not sure if he was mandatory but he heard the call of Red-backed Thrush in the distance and we hot footed it across to the calling area. However it wasn t obvious where it was so we took time to study a family of Spectral Tarsier (This incredible looking species with its endearing large eyes was the inspiration for Steven Spielberg s ET and we watch in amazement as they move from hole to hole and settle down to sleep). I then spotted a Tabon Scrubfowl on the ground on the hill about 70m away and right behind it was the Thrush, we sat quietly and tried to call it closer but it didn t respond to calls, but it did appear again slightly closer but I couldn t get a good view of its back, or get a photo just a side view and all Sarah saw was the bird as it moved and then in flight as it changed position and went into thick vegetation still at least it was tickable. No time for disappointment as a Sulawesi Malkoha and Bay Coucal vied for position in a tree above us with an Ashy Woodpecker also showing well. We then had the beautiful Green-backed Kingfisher show in better light than yesterday, although I was still using a very high ISO to get a fast enough shutter speed to capture the bird in focus. We then sat and played the Thrush call while Carlos and the local guide searched all the known roost spots including a Minhassa nest hole but with no birds found. I then discovered the lens hood had fallen off my camera and made to retrace my steps, the local guide however ran back and beat me to finding it and returned it to me and had some good news another guide we had seen earlier with a French girl had found the three roosting Ochre-bellied Boobooks. We had walked past the area earlier but although obvious from under the tree from the wrong side they were pretty much invisible. Still a great find and a few nice photos of the Boobook group was obtained. It was now starting to warm up and birdlife was dropping off so we walked back to the road seeing another beautiful target bird a Lilac Kingfisher and Black-billed Koel on the way. After lunch we would go to a viewing spot by the roadside before trying again for some night birds. The viewing area overlooked a number of trees with snags and some prime forest. We saw a male Minhassa Racket-tail, a pair of Sulawesi Rollers, a Green Imperial Pigeon before the first of many Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon, then a Black-naped Fruit Dove, before the last pigeon of the day a White-bellied Imperial Pigeon. The smaller birds by the roadside included Grey-rumped Treeswift, Barred Rail wading in a puddle, Collared Kingfisher, Sacred Kingfisher, and then we added Sulawesi Racket-tail and Sulawesi Hanging Parrot. The only bird of prey was a Black Eagle and I saw an Ivory-backed Woodswallow perch briefly on the overhead wires before we both caught up with Grosbeak Myna. On the way to our night birding we added Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Whitenecked Myna and Sooty Headed Bulbul to the trip list. No luck with the night birding with Sulawesi Nightjar calling in the grounds of the local fire station and a probable bird flying distantly but as we could also hear Great-eared Nightjar we didn t tick it and not even a call from the Minhassa Masked Owl tonight. It was also worrying us that we hadn t yet seen the Sulawesi Crested Macaques.

4 Last Day at Tangkoko Our last day at Tangkoko had a familiar feel, with early breakfast and onto the track to the forest before Sulawesi Nightjars were calling and seemed to be really close on both sides of the track but we just couldn t find them and even when we returned in daylight could not find a roosting bird. The Minhassa Masked Owl was not calling and did not respond to our calls, having read the struggles that Russ and Melissa Gallard had to get this bird a couple of months ago I wasn t really surprised that we were struggling to see it but Carlos was still pretty upbeat about finding a bird and had a new place to try tonight. Into the forest and a little confusion as Carlos called Sulawesi Black Pigeon but I was looking at White-faced Cuckoo Dove (turns out Black Pigeon was previous name and I was using latest name from the field guide). Anyway a very smart bird which I even managed a record shot of. We then got better views of Knobbed Hornbill before trying again for the Red-backed Thrush, although we saw the bird fleetingly the views were not brilliant so just as well yesterday s were tickable. Other birds were familiar from previous days with Bay Coucal, Green-backed Kingfisher, Ashy Woodpecker, Sulawesi Malkoha, and Sulawesi Babbler all seen before we tried another area for roosting Nightjars and we found a smart Spot-tailed Goshawk which posed nicely for a photo with its diagnostic tail spots showing. At this point the heavens opened and we headed to a little shelter at the start of the track to keep dry. This was a good move as when the rain eased we saw the biggest troop (around 90 strong) of Sulawesi Crested Macaques on the ground looking like miniature gorillas and doing all the behaviours we hoped for, including mating, fighting, tree climbing, baby feeding and grooming. Later in the morning we saw a smaller troop so we need not have worried about seeing these sought after Macaques. The only birds on the track were Pale-Blue Monarch and Sulawesi Crow. Carlos and the local guide then went into the undergrowth at either side of the track to hopefully find a roosting Sulawesi Nightjar and although they flushed a bird we didn t see it fly and they couldn t relocate it. Following the rain shower it was now very hot and there was no bird activity so time to head back to the lodge for a rest before lunch. After lunch there was a change of plan we were going to an area for Sulawesi Sahul Pitta which hadn t been that regularly in Tangkoko recently. We stopped at a little track by some houses and immediately flushed two Barred Buttonquail, we also added Sunda Yellow-vented Bulbul before arriving at a little river. Carlos found a couple of logs and we were able to cross the river and then we could hear the Pitta real close. Carlos set up his speaker on the track and the bird stopped right by the path. Unfortunately the bird was slightly obscured so I couldn t photograph it and Sarah couldn t see the whole bird but it then decided to fly back and forward across the track and even stopped once (really briefly) for Sarah to get a great view of Sulawesi Sahul Pitta. We then headed back to the roadside to pick up some of the

5 common birds we still needed. We added Blue-backed Parrot, Short-crested Myna, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon and White-eyed Drongo to the usual array of swifts and swallows. We had packed our bags and loaded the van but as we still needed a few target birds we agreed we would drive to Tomahon after dark after another attempt for Owls and Nightjars. The try for nightjars was in the forest near the Fire Station and started promisingly with both nightjars calling but only the Great-eared Nightjar was definitely seen by us, we just didn t see Sulawesi (at least not well enough to count it) although it was no doubt flying about. Carlos said, this contact has given me a location where we will just pull up on a track, call beneath some trees for the Owl and there he ll be. I was sceptical but after a 40 minute drive past a road-end into some forest, we tried. The Minhassa Masked Owl was called, no call back but they don t always call, then we all saw something fly in from behind the trees. Flash light on and it was another bloody Sulawesi Scops Owl, after more trying we retraced our steps and then did the long drive to Tomahon. We stayed at Onong s Mountain Resort and arrived late, we dropped our stuff in the cabin, had a quick dinner before retiring to bed, we were off early again after a light breakfast but would be able to come back for a shower and to pack our bags after our mornings birding including a try for a new owl. Gunung Mahawu Early breakfast and I had some nice pancakes and coffee, Sarah an Omelette before we headed off around 4.30 to try for a couple of Owls. This was much more like it one call, bird calls back, two birds fly in and perched in the flash light is a nice Speckled Boobook, I didn t get a great photo before we moved the beam and looked at the second bird which no surprise I suppose was a Sulawesi Scops Owl. The Boobook was still around but was now well hidden behind some branches. Still this was nice and easy and we were up the top of Gunung (old volcano) Mahawu, while it was still semi dark; so we took the opportunity to walk to the top of the viewpoint to see the old crater and the other mountains as the sun rose. There were even a few Sulawesi Cuckoo Doves at the top to tick. After taking a few photos there was time for a few common birds Lemon-bellied and Mountain White-eye, Arctic Warbler, Turquoise Warbling Flycatcher and couple of new birds in Sulphur-bellied Whistler and Black-crowned White-eye before trying for two difficult targets in the forest. On the walk down we bumped into another birding group who had been in the forest yesterday they told us where they had found a Scaly Kingfisher. So we headed into the forest and crossed the stream to that area. However, there was no Kingfisher calling and after much searching no Scaly Kingfisher found, we did though find a cracking Sulawesi Jungle Flycatcher that I even managed a photo of and we knew that we still had a chance of a Scaly at Gunung Ambang. On emerging from the forest we did some roadside birding on the way down the hill and added Sulawesi Myzomela, Western Superb Fruit Dove, Citrine Canary Tit, and a couple of fly-over Japanese Sparrowhawks and then a Small Sparrowhawk. It was then time to get back to the resort, pack up the car and then drive to Kotamobagu with just a stop at some fields for some waders and munias. We duly added Sunda Teal, Spotted Dove, Pacific Golden Plover, Common Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Red-necked Stint, Swinhoe s Snipe, Javan Pond Heron and the Scaly-breasted and Black-faced Munia.

6 We arrived in Kotomobagu where we were staying at the Patra Jasa Hotel just before dark, we dropped our bags and headed immediately to some local fields where just as darkness was falling we had a Sulawesi Masked Owl fly from a palm tree which we had been searching for its presence. A nice way to finish the day! We were staying at the Patra Jasa as the lodge near Dumoga-Bone was fully occupied, so an extra 45 minute drive each way for the next few days. Dumoga- Bone National Park One of the drawbacks of staying at Kotamobagu is the drive before and after the days birding and lack of place to have a rest in the heat of the day. Our plan for the 4 days we are staying at Patra Jasa is to leave each day early and have breakfast at Dumoga-Bone park office before birding, lunch locally and then arrive back after dark for dinner at the hotel. Food is good at the Hotel and the room is comfortable with constant hot water (at least when we are here at night and early in the morning). We set off about three get to the park at four, where we have our packed breakfast of Nasi Goreng, Peanut-butter or Nutella sandwiches and coffee and juice. This was breakfast for most mornings from this point on with us being happy with coffee, bread and peanut butter and then some Beng-beng chocolate biscuits with coffee and water when we stop. It worked well for us. On this first morning Carlos thought he knew a Masked Owl roost but although we heard the bird we couldn t find it. We did a bit of local birding as things started to come awake but all we saw was Sulawesi Roller, Black-Kite, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle (young bird perched in tree), Yellow-vented Bulbul, Tree Sparrow and Uniform Swiftlet, we then had a try for Sulawesi Bush-hen a notoriously shy bird and were lucky and saw the bird really well before it was time to cross the river on a makeshift bamboo raft to enter the park proper. On the river we saw Collared and Common Kingfisher, White-eyed Drongo and Barn Swallow before we heard the distinct call of Oberholser s Fruit Dove a real beautiful dove that we saw well a couple of times but my pictures just don t do it justice, I suspect Carlos got better. Most common birds were Greystreaked Flycatcher and Turquoise Warbling Flycatcher but we also saw Sulawesi Triller, Pied Cuckooshrike, Sulawesi Malkoha, Barred Rail, Yellow-sided Flowerpecker and some lovely Ornate Lorikeet s and our first Pygmy Hanging Parrots. We heard a pitta calling fairly nearby bit didn t go for it having seen one well yesterday and it did show for others later. In the heat of the morning we tried for raptors and added Spotted Harrier quartering the local grassland before getting Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle and Brahminy Kite by the forest edge. We also saw our only Pechora Pipit of the trip. At we headed to a local lodge (the one that was full so unavailable for us to stay in) and had a nice lunch and even had a basic room that we could rest in for a few hours. We met a couple of UK birders Geoff and Grace who were staying here and exchanged info with them we were particularly interested in Tabun and Gunung Ambush which they had visited and which we were still to visit in the coming days. Food was excellent and I was even able to charge my phone which I had forgotten to charge overnight. This was to become a bit of a habit with stops here 3 times and a meet ups with Geoff and Grace to compare notes and show photos twice.

7 This afternoon we would bird the edge of the park. There was actually a bit of rain about but we added Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill, Purple Needletail, Knobbed Hornbills, White-necked Myna, Black Sunbird, Black-headed Munia and Golden-bellied Gerygone. Tabun and Dumoga-Bone NP Off nice and early again and we arrive at Maleo reserve around 4am for breakfast. No owls calling but we did hear Sulawesi Nightjar again but only birds that we saw flying were Great-eared that we eventually saw well; good to have a guide that doesn t try to claim something he has been trying to get for a few days as our target as on initial brief view and with the bird having called we might have thought it was a Sulawesi. Into the forest and the hot spring area at first light with a local guide. We quickly spot a Maleo at the edge of the forest but light is really poor, we spot a mature male at the top of a tree just as we exit the forest, still distant but at least light is a little better and I get a few record shots. It is still very early so we decide to head to edge of Duomo Bone to hopefully catch some birds as the day begins to heat up. We see Sulawesi Cuckoo Dove, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon, Oberholser s Fruit Dove, White-bellied Imperial Pigeon before the first new bird of the morning Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, then repeat views of Malkoha, Sulawesi Racket-tail, Sulawesi Hanging Parrot and Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon before a Sulawesi Cicadabird was seen and scoped. There were Sulawesi and Uniform Swiftlets flying around the road and on a roadside bush we also added Lesser Coucal. On the bird of prey front we found a good vantage point and saw Sulawesi Honey-buzzard, Sulawesi Hawk-eagle, Black Eagle, and a Sulawesi Goshawk. We also had a Black-naped Oriole and Ivory-backed Woodswallow by the roadside before we went back to the lodge for lunch and a rest. This afternoon we when to some ponds (tower wetlands) to try for White-rumped Cuckooshrike but we were unsuccessful and did most of our birding under umbrellas as heavy rain set in. We did however get Sunda Teal, Sunda Swamphen, Dusky Moorhen, Wandering Whistling Duck, Whitebrowed Crake, and Barred Rail before Sarah took a tumble on a muddy path and needed some cleaning up in a local shack. We did after that see Rufous Night Heron, Grey Heron, Little Egret, Cinnamon Bittern and Purple Heron and an Osprey. No owling tonight due to rain and over dinner Carlos suggest we go into the big forest at Dumoga- Bone tomorrow to try for some rarely seen species such as Snoring Rail, Sulawesi Ground Dove, Rufous-throated Flycatcher as well as Minhassa Masked Owl. We would be off at Toraut forest Dumoga Bone It had rained all night but it was just drying as we set off. We took the bamboo raft across in the dark and quickly left the normal trails behind and headed up into the forest with a local guide hacking a path through spikey growth, after about 30 minutes we stopped and tried for owls. Distant Boobook calling but no sign of Minhassa Masked Owl and only owl we saw was the ubiquitous Scops Owl which was happy to call and pose in the spotlight. Around 5am when the first glimmers of light were coming into the forest we heard a Rufous-fronted Flycatcher call, it was still too dark to see anything properly so we noted the GPS to come back a little later. Up to the dead centre of the forest and although we could hear a lot of calling doves it was really disappointing the lack of species diversity in this pristine habitat. Although there was a Green-backed Kingfisher calling that just days ago would have been a star bird.

8 Although we had made our own trail there was evidence of other trails despite no official guided trips into the forest in the last couple of months. In all likelihood these were made by trappers / hunters we saw a number travelling openly with guns and traps on the back of motorbikes and in this area that rather than habitat loss seems to be the main threat to birds. Back to the birding or lack of it the species we were looking for are shy for good reason and exist at low densities so it is hardly surprising that these birds are rarely / never seen. We heard a number of Pitta calls in the early morning gloom and despite good views a few days earlier decided that would try to see one. Fortunately a little bit of playback brought a bird to a log at eye-level near the edge of our trail. We just sat ourselves down on the forest floor ate some biscuits and enjoyed a rest after 3 hours of quite hard sweaty mostly uphill trekking, and watched a beautiful Sulawesi Sahul Pitta coming and going for 20 minutes. We were now back in the zone and headed to the GPS point for the Flycatcher, although we heard the bird again distantly it just didn t respond to playback and so added to a bit of a disappointing morning although we did get one lifer in Red-eared Fruit Dove. We walked for 7 hours with little seen or heard, certainly our main targets of Masked Owl, Ground Dove and Rail were not even heard. Still that is often the way of birding and hopes were now on a big day tomorrow. We did see a few birds in the lower area near the reserve centre where presumably birds are a little more habituated and protected by wardens they included Black-winged Kite and Pale Blue Monarch and we did see a Gorontalo Macaque. This afternoon after lunch at the regular lodge we took it easy and went back to Tabon to see the Maleo, recovery programme we had completely lost track of days but it was Sunday afternoon and just before the reserve closed when we arrived. It was really busy and quite amazingly we had hordes of teenage girls and even their teacher all wanting selfies with us and climbing all over us to get close Sarah said she now knows what it feels like to be a movie star we did in lots of places get requests for photos as not many westerners make to some of these remote areas but just for sheer numbers this felt really odd. We didn t see many birds just Drongo, Grey-sided Flowerpecker and Grosbeak Myna and no wild Maleo, just birds of different age ranges held in different parts of the reserve and an Maleo egg which wasn t quite ready for hatching but which Sarah held, still it was good to talk to guys running the programme and hear about the success in increasing numbers of this emblematic species. Nice meal tonight and early night as tomorrow we would get off early (packed and out the hotel by so we could be up Gunung Ambang before daylight. Gunung Ambang Thankfully the rain of last few days had totally cleared and we have a nice clear sky for the drive to the start point. Carlos is very pleased that the track is driveable much further than last time he was here and the walk before climbing Ambang is pretty short. So we have breakfast out of the back of the car against a star strewn night sky before our walk up the first track. At the first clearing with some nearby tall trees we call Sulawesi Masked Owl and a bird flies in, unfortunately it perches too low in the tree for Sarah and me to see it well, but we climb the hill a little and see it clearly but it flies off before we can photograph it. A little further up the hill we try for Cinnibar Boobook, a bird calls distantly but nothing doing so we climb a little higher and call again, a bird flies in but is really well hidden so while we think it is Boobook we want a better view lights out and we call again and there he is sitting on a bare branch clearly visible a Cinnibar Boobook, my camera setting were all over the place and the bird kept moving so I couldn t get a really sharp image just a couple of record shots but really happy to see this bird that our friends and a few other groups had missed. We didn t even pay any attention to the Sulawesi Scops Owl that flew across into a nearby tree but an excellent morning so far and it got better. We could hear the distinctive sound of

9 Scaly Kingfisher up the hill so a bit of a hard climb in the dark up the narrow track anyone who knows us can see that we are built for comfort rather than performance but we put on as much of a spurt as we could and got there in time to see the perched Scaly Kingfisher in the first of the morning light; fortunately I had my camera on a mono pod and with a slow shutter speed so even grabbed a record shot which Carlos struggled to get doing hand held. The bird then flew down the hill but Sarah managed to relocate it and got me on it and I got an Ok shot of one of the most sought after Kingfishers of the trip. In good spirits we headed up to the top and tried for the Matinan s Warbling Flycatcher, I have to say not much of a looker but a lovely song and we did get to see the bird singing right at the top of a tree. So far so good and we tried calling Sulawesi Bush Warbler at least that s what I thought it was and even saw this little skulker really well as he moved mouse like on a log where Carlos had balanced his speaker; of course it is now Sulawesi Grasshopper Warbler but to me still looks and sounds like a Bush Warbler regardless of what mdna says. I should probably have said earlier we are using a Birdtour Asia checklist list and taxonomy based on the new field guide Birds of Indonesian Archipelago. I did like the field guide plates and think the short text is appropriate and helpful and can even understand the new naming conventions even if some of them to me are confusing when it comes to updating our life lists which are IOC based the bit I hate and Sarah does too is the Index which is fully alphabetised which means you can t just look something up by name/family e.g. Bulbul/Goshawk you need to go to Sulawesi Goshawk / Halmahera Golden Bulbul (it s the same index style as the Gregory guide to New Guinea which I also don t like). Off my soapbox now. Next up we had a couple of noisy Malia (Recondite sub species) which is now also in Locustellidae family although it looks and behaves much more like a cross between thrush/babbler and certainly isn t shy. We hear the Matinan s singing nearby and quickly head up to a tangle where the birds shows remarkably well although he isn t the most photogenic of birds. We add Sulawesi Leaf Warbler and Flamebrowed Myna in this area of the mountain. Other wildlife included Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel. On the way down which was very slippery after recent rain Carlos said lets go slowly and stay together to hopefully spot any birds coming onto the track, but then he was off quickly and on a perched Sulawesi Goshawk which he was photographing and which we disturbed as we caught up a few words were said but quickly forgotten on what was a great days birding. The only realistic target bird we missed was Purple-bearded Beeeater; I think we were down the hill before they became active but as we had Lore Lindu to look forward to we weren t too concerned. It was now a long slow drive to Palu, where we were staying the night. Our hope was to drop our bags at the hotel and get to a mangrove area before dark but traffic was a nightmare with a police incident and heavy rain causing massive delays. In the end we got to a resort hotel just north of the ring road with a long partly covered pier just before dark with no stop off. We made our way out to the pier end where there was a covered area, we called a White-rumped Cuckooshrike and two birds appeared to give us great views of a bird we had tried for since day1; pity we left our cameras in the car due to the rain.

10 Overnight at Peninsula Hotel, the best hotel in Manado very nice views and rooms but really poor service with restaurant closed and bar meal for me not delivered, due to various politicians /VIPs being in for a reception, in the end I shared a bit of Sarah s meal and we did get a free beer. Flight to Halmahera was now later at not so leisurely start tomorrow. Trip to Halmahera We had already crossed Wallace s Line when we flew from Java to Sulawesi but with the arrival in Halmahera we were now in the heart of Wallacea (just across from Ternate where Wallace lived while doing his research). However the avifauna in Halmahera was now much more like New Guinea and with a truly Australasian flavour. When anyone comes to Halmahera the top 5 birds targets are inevitably Wallace s Standard Wing, Moluccan Owlet Nightjar, Ivory-breasted Pitta, Azure Dollarbird and Sombre Kingfisher with an assortment of Parrots, Night birds and endemics added for good measure and we were no different. Since visiting PNG in 2012 I had longed to see another Bird of Paradise display so a real attraction in staying at Weda Resort was a pretty accessible lek. It is in nearby forest which the resort had bought to protect the habitat from loggers. I have to also say the resort was really comfortable with excellent food and friendly staff and with a decision made to not try for the Moluccan Spurfowl there was no really long or difficult journeys for our main targets. We had a nice leisurely breakfast and then made our way to the airport in about 30 minutes. Check-in was a bit complicated as we thought all our internal flights allowed us 20kg of luggage each (that was case for Garuda and Batik) but for Lion Air luggage allowance was just 10kg and Sarah and I each had about 19kg and Carlos had about 18kg. Birdtour Asia agreed to pick up the tab for the excess but it was just a painful process with Carlos having to go to visit the office 3 times and coming back to the desk as bureaucracy went mad demanding different paperwork before they would take the charge for 26KG of excess baggage and finally take our bags about 30 minutes after we had checked in. The actual cost wasn t great about US $1 a kilo but it was time consuming and stressful so glad that Carlos speaks fluent Indonesian. It was a 2 hour 40 minute flight but there is also an hours time difference so by the time we get our bags and head to the Weda 4WD vehicle at the airport it is around mid-day. Good news is that with change in time zone it gets dark and then light almost an hour later than in Manado. So more time for birding today and pre-dawn start for birding tomorrow is almost a long lie. We had flight into Kao which was an hour or so north of the capital Sofili and the first real birding spot, near here where we stopped on a beach near some mangroves. On the roadside were a nice selection of Red-flanked Lorikeets and Moluccan Hanging Parrots before we went for the target bird. Unfortunately the birds weren t showing and it was fairly high tide so we couldn t change our vantage point. Carlos decided he would wade out to the mangroves to see if he could see the birds and then get us on them, as I said it was high tide and Carlos admitted he had never done this walk other than at low tide and before long the water was over his shorts and had soaked his wallet and phone (fortunately waterproof) we didn t know whether to laugh or not but from the other direction a Beach Kingfisher flew into the mangroves and as Carlos recognised we had seen the bird and turned back a second bird flew out from the other side of the mangroves. A good start on Halmahera. We had lunch near the beach; the driver from Weda had brought a packed lunch in tiffin boxes. We then headed into the local town found a shop for Carlos to get a towel and try off and for us to be invited into the back room and use the toilet and join the family for food (we didn t take their food just bought some drinks in the shop) really friendly people.

11 It was around 3 hours to the resort so we decided that we would try for a few birds and then get to the resort after trying for a night bird or two. The number of birds around were not huge but there were some real attractive species, first up was Umbrella Cockatoo, these birds were once very common but now like many birds are threatened by industrial strength trapping for the pet trade (while we were in Halmahera we saw a local news report of hundreds of parrots and cockatoos being transported to Ternate for onward travel in plastic tubes, it appears hunters are now using ebird to get GPS coordinates and xeno canto and local Indonesian bird sites to download calls to trap these birds this is in addition to all the trapping for local homes every village had a number of caged Chattering Lory and this beautiful parrot is now difficult to see in the wild at sea level in Halmahera). It has to be a case of get here soon before sustainable populations of some gloriously colourful birds are just not visible in the wild any longer or better still help locals do something about it but Carlos was not hopeful that young groups equivalent to Wild Bird Club Philippines would emerge in Indonesia to stop the rot before it is too late depressing thought on this beautiful spice island. Sorry lost my thread there we saw the Cockatoo but it was wary and a little distant. Next up we added Halmahera Oriole, Rufous Bellied Triller, White-bellied Cuckooshrike and Halmahera Friarbird before amongst the Glossy swiftlets we add Halmahera Swiftlet and then a Great Billed Parrot with his distinctive flight shape. We heard a Pale-vented Bush-hen when we stopped not far from the resort to try for Moluccan Scops Owl, and saw a few Blue and White Kingfishers, and a couple of Metallic Starlings, however while we heard the Scops Owl no luck with a sighting and Carlos was not too pleased with the way the local driver guide shone his torch and made movement and noises while we were trying so it was no surprise when we had a different driver from that point on. Wallace s Standard Wing Birds of Paradises and plenty more This morning is our time to search for some of the most prized species of the trip. We headed off after breakfast to arrive in the forest just before dawn with only a 30 minute drive and 20 minute mostly down-hill walk. On the way to the lek we spotted a Common Paradise Kingfisher (juvenile male so not with full tail) but a good start albeit a bird we had seen before. It was then time to observe the Wallace s Standardwing at a lek site a truly magical experience as three male birds greet the rising sun by jumping up and parachuting down again, accompanied by an amazing cacophony of noise whenever one of the two females present approaches. I had almost talked the experience down before hand as I didn t think it could get near a Raggiana or King Bird of Paradise display and partly because most photos I had seen of the birds hadn t been that spectacular I think this is but because the display starts in darkness and then the birds are moving quickly in poor light so the best people seem to achieve is static not very colourful record shots but what a thrilling experience. It is certainly in my 4 or 5 top five bird of paradise experiences. As it got light the bird activity dropped off massively and the birds just melted away over 10 minutes or so.

12 However just as we expected to be on a low we heard an Ivory-breasted Pitta. The bird sounded low to the ground but then it suddenly appeared 40 feet up and then showed on an unobscured branch. I had the camera all wrong and so despite some great views and opportunity for photos I got only one shot as the bird made to leave. I did even worse with Nicobar Pigeon which flew at Sarah s head when we called it, in all we saw 6 of this often difficult bird before we headed back to the main track. So an excellent start to the morning and we headed back to the road to try for a few more endemics and special birds. First off we went just a few meters off the road when we heard a Pitta call, we set ourselves up on a log and put the speaker on the trail and called the Sultan s Sahul Pitta, fortunately the bird came almost immediately and although we didn t get brilliant sighting it showed a couple of times in deep vegetation and did a couple of fly bye s, so another good bird added. We also saw a couple of huge Goliath Coucals but interestingly the white wing patch was not as obvious as I expected it to be. We then got a Shining Monarch, a Red Cheeked Parrot, repeat views of Rufous-bellied Triller and Red-flanked Lorikeet before we headed back to the resort. The birding hadn t finished we went down a trail opposite the restaurant where we added a very obliging Sombre Kingfisher and then had another Bird of Paradise albeit the Paradise Crow is nothing to write home about. On the walk back to our room Sarah and I added the delightful little Blue-capped Fruit Dove but despite this bird coming to trees near the restaurant and close to our room over the 4 days I never did get a photo. Either ill prepared or with blinds down in the restaurant. This afternoon we drove North and birded the road side I think we only saw about 10 cars, however in stopping to take some photos of an Eclectus Parrot I dropped my cap and despite searching for it later couldn t find it sod s law it was really bright and we were not in the forest, so a really uncomfortable afternoon and next morning. Back to the birding and it was a little bitty but with good birds being added at regular intervals we saw Varied Goshawk, then Halmahera Goshawk, Halmahera White-eye, Moluccan Hanging Parrot, Moluccan Starling (one of only two we saw), Moluccan Cuckooshrike, Umbrella Cockatoo, Halmahera Friarbird and a few good pigeons in Moluccan Imperial Pigeon, Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon and Pied Imperial Pigeon. The only thing we missed was Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove which was heard only and Azure Dollarbird where every bird we checked was a Common Dollarbird It was then time to head back towards the resort and try for some night birds of which Halmahera has a few crackers. We tried first for Moluccan Scops Owl and despite lots of calling and a couple of birds in the vicinity we could not get on this bird tonight (we gave this bird the nick-name Bob as the call when the birds were keeping in touch was a long Booab? in fact it sounded just like an American friend of ours calling her husband. We didn t see Bob for a while. Much more successful was Halmahera Boobook which responded well and flew in quite quickly and even changed his perch to give me at least a reasonable record shot. We headed back to the resort road and stopped about 1 kilometre from the rooms when we heard the Owlet Nightjar but although he came very close and even came near to the restaurant during dinner we couldn t locate this birds which after the Standard-wing and Ivory Breasted Pitta this morning was now our top target.

13 I should have mentioned we were now with a local guide Bang-bang who was very good and spoke good English, he was a good spotter and knew of recent sightings so anyone on their own at Weda on a birding rather than diving package should try to get him to guide them on their visit to the lek, etc. In search of the Invisible Rail The local guides knew of a good spot for Invisible rail. So after breakfast and an unsuccessful try for Owls and Owlet-nightjar we set off on a dive boat across the bay and up a local river. On the way we added Moustached Tree-swift, Greater-crested Tern, Black Bittern, Chinese Egret, Osprey and Blythe s Hornbill before a flock of Violet-necked Lory s added a blaze of colour and provided the first lifer to our early morning. We soon got to the area and staked out a fairly open area, Carlos put his speaker on a low snag and we all got ready. The speaker played the Invisible Rail call and the bird shot across behind us and disappeared with only the local guide seeing more than a movement. We did try calling it repeatedly and looking at other areas in this bit of flooded forest but as the Rail didn t even call back we gave up after an hour and headed back to the boat. We headed back to near the Standard-wing lek, we heard the Ivory Breasted Pitta but we were after the Dollarbird, the guys knew a high bare snag it had been frequenting recently. We made our way there adding a pair of Eclectus Parrots and Drab Whistler. After about 30 minutes of waiting Carlos decided he would play the call under the tree, we would watch the tree; no sooner had he left than the Azure Dollarbird landed high in the tree, we just got him in our binoculars but rather than sitting patiently on his favourite perch he flew off after just a couple of seconds and all we had after that initial sighting was a flight view as he circled; still at least we saw the bird, albeit fleetingly. Out to the forest edge and we added Halmahera Spangled Drongo and then the attractive White-naped Monarch and Halmahera Flowerpecker. After a break and some lunch we headed south and en-route to some forest I spotted a little shop that sold me a cap Sarah said I looked a Chinese labourer but it kept the sun out of my eyes. It was really fun with the family of the shop owner coming to have photos taken with me and my new cap. Off to what looked like a non-descript area of secondary growth but there were birds arounds including Moluccan Monarch, Rufous-bellied Triller, Halmahera Hanging Parrot, Great-billed Parrot, Moluccan Whistler and Halmahera Flowerpecker. In the scrubby open area we added Dusky Scrubfowl. We then started back for Weda but stopped at a place suggested by Bang-bang where we called and saw Pale-vented Bush-hen, the bird showed twice but was really nervous and quickly went into hiding and that was it really with an attempt for Bob (Scops Owl) near the resort being heard own but with some excitement as a huge bat flew out at the right height. When we arrived back for dinner the Owlet Nightjar was calling but quite distant so we decided to eat and then try for the bird, I have to say we weren t looking forward to climbing up the track after dinner but the van took us most of the way back to the road so we just had to walk 100m to the spot we would call from. We walked into the forest put out the torches and called the bird. One sounded really close and when we put on the the spot light there he was right above us a really unusual looking bird Sarah decided the Moluccan Owlet Nightjar deserved cute rather than ugly or Weird as a descriptor but I went for much sought after as this was only the second bird of this family we had ever seen, having missed a few in PNG.

14 We went to bed happy this evening having forgotten the missed rail and even with an early planned start time we could have breakfast before going into the mountains tomorrow, and so no listening for birds to get in the way of a good night s sleep tonight. Off to the area near the Weda Bay Nickle mine. Early breakfast, even with a start before 4am they offer full selection of pancakes, eggs, etc. so Weda Resort is well set up for birders in addition to having some great birds in the local area and very comfortable accommodation. We headed toward the Weda bay port and stopped to try for Moluccan Scops Owl but again no sign of Bob although we did get another Halmahera Boobook fly in to nearby trees. We persevered for the scops owl and this time when we switched the torches back on and had a scan of the trees there was a couple of Moluccan Scops Owls but quite distant after a little more calling, and hearing Booab?.., Booab?.., Booab?... one of the birds came close enough and perched for a record shot although he wouldn t show completely out in the open. It was just getting light as we passed through the last town before the road split and we took the fork towards the Nickle Mine, I don t think this road is used very much we certainly didn t see another car in a full day on the road and only saw a few people near the mining town and then two people late in the day near the start of the road. The road gets to a high enough elevation to get the few tricky birds that only occur at 1200M and above. The first birds we spotted were a small flock of the beautiful Chattering Lory, what a shame that these birds are all being trapped and kept in cages in the local villages. We then added Wallacean Monarch, Cinnamonbellied Imperial Pigeon and Moluccan Monarch, at the highest point of the road just before the mining town we had good views of two Gilolo Fantails flying around with a couple of Halmahera White-eyes. We also found a couple of North Moluccan Leaf Warblers which were quite confiding We heard a distant Moluccan King Parrot but despite lots of attempts to call it in we could not see this target bird but we did add Wallacean and Halmahera Cicadabird and the Dusky Myzomela. We heard a Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove and Bang-bang managed to see it, even though it was well set back in a tangle of vines high up in a tree, fortunately I got on it quickly and even managed a distant record shot of this beautiful dove but Sarah just couldn t get on it despite three of us giving her directions and me showing her a photo to try to get her to look through the right gap in the vegetation, the scope was in the car a good 30 minute walk away and we had visions of her missing this great bird when fortunately it moved slightly and she was on it, I don t believe I couldn t see it doh! To be fair we have all been there where everyone but you is on a bird and you just get frustrated as hell as you are at the wrong height, angle, or the bird is hidden by a leaf, branch etc. We were then walking up and down the hill calling and trying for a Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk which had been seen here a few weeks ago but without luck, we were however lucky to see a fly-over Gurney s Eagle which we were able to see well by running to the brow of the hill as it initial went out of sight and a Varied Goshawk. Bird activity had pretty much stopped so we had lunch on a table of banana leaves set out on the road, we then had a siesta just lying on the road, only to be disturbed by a heavy rain shower an hour or so later. While the rain didn t last long, just 40 minutes with us sheltering under umbrellas, there was little bird activity then we saw Umbrella Cockatoo, then we heard another King Parrot and there

15 below in the middle of tree was a Moluccan King Parrot. This is now a pretty rare bird in this part of Halmahera. We walked and birded down the road with Bang-bang driving behind and with Carlos on top of the car, birds added included Dollarbird, Blue and White Kingfisher, Moluccan Cuckooshrike and Longbilled Crow. The heavy rain had brought a tree down across the road - whilst we had a machete in the car it was going to take ages to get the tree cleared; but our good luck continued - two guys collecting coconuts had good blades and made short work of clearing the tree and were happy to be rewarded with some biscuits and sweets. In a clearing on the way back to the main road and just before dark we added Peregrine Falcon, Indonesian Kestrel and Oriental Hobby. Weda to Ternate and then Makassar Nice leisurely start just getting up for breakfast before dawn sods law, having struggled for ages with Moluccan Scops Owl one was calling and seen outside our room on the way to breakfast; we could also hear Owlet Nightjar but decided not to try for it, but pointed out the call to some divers staying at the resort who were intrigued by the look and sound of this weird bird and were hoping to see it at some point. After breakfast we would drive slowly up to Sofili for our private transfer across to Ternate for our flight to Makassar. We would be stopping regularly to try for a few targets we were still looking for a possible day roost for Barking Owl but did not have much hope as the birds had not been seen recently by Bang-bang or any local guides. We stopped at every little bridge over a stream looking for Little Kingfisher but didn t see or hear a single bird, we did see Sombre Kingfisher (much thicker billed on this view), Common Kingfisher and Scared Kingfisher. We had our last look at some nice endemics such as Rufous-bellied Triller, Halmahera Flowerpecker, Friarbird, Oriole, and Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove (poor view). Carlos then saw a Purple Needletail when we were looking at a Halmahera Goshawk, he is human in his encyclopaedic bird knowledge, he thought it was Indonesian Endemic but we had seen them in the Philippines and also had one at Dumoga Bone when Carlos wasn t around so we weren t too bothered. We added Halmahera Golden Bulbuls (first mentioned so shown as lifer here), Umbrella Cockatoo, Hanging Parrot, and Moluccan Cuckooshrike, we had been calling for Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk as we went along, then Carlos went into the forest calling it, we were told to look at open area below us for birds hopefully flying across above the trees. We only saw Brahminy Kite and a couple of Eclectus Parrots which we were looking at when we heard Carlos call and run up the hill, look but we had all missed the Sparrowhawk, which has flown across behind us. A real pity as this is a very rare bird which Bangbang said he only sees once or twice a year. Unsurprisingly, we didn t find Barking Owl, I don t think it is seen very often on Halmahera in the areas we visited. We arrived at the dock earlier than expected but as we had a private boat transfer we set off immediately, Carlos on top of the little speedboat looking for rare terns. However despite a little detour to a sand spit we only saw Great-Crested Tern. So a pretty disappointing last morning but a successful trip to this lovely spice island; visit soon before all the birds are trapped!! As it was now raining torrentially we had no opportunity to try for any birds on Ternate. Instead we waited for a

16 slightly delayed plane in the small airport and arrived just before dark in Makassar. So we just headed to our airport hotel. Carlos did offer us an owling trip but it was a couple of hours driving to the site and as we were off really early the next morning we sensibly declined. Visit to the limestone karst forest at Karaenta Off before the hotel can do breakfast to get up to the karst forest at Kareanta, a place Carlos doesn t like as most birding is by a busy road and near the Bantimurung-Bulusaraung N.P visitor centre where on a Sunday it gets extremely busy. However despite trying he hasn t found anywhere else in the vicinity with the same selection of birds. We arrived before dawn no owls calling but we could hear one of our top targets the recently split Black-headed Kingfisher, another one of the forest kingfishers which is only really findable early in the morning when they are calling. We had some coffee and peanut butter sandwiches while we waited for some light, overhead there was an Indonesian Kestrel and a Knobbed Hornbill. Then a motorbike suddenly pulled into the forest trail at near full pelt stop we gestured. The guy got off his bike he was a local reserve guide. Not a good introduction. There were two birds calling Carlos went left into the forest, the local guide right and we headed in slowly behind the local guy as it was the easiest trail. Almost immediately the guy was pointing and I was on the Black-headed Kingfisher, but he flew deeper into the forest, we whistled Carlos and started quietly towards where the bird had flown, and there he was sitting on a low branch easily viewable, getting photos was much more difficult with the light really poor and even with a high ISO and monopod getting a sharp shot was difficult, still the bird played ball and flew into a series of nearby branches while Carlos and I got a load of shots that would surely produce a few keepers. After about 20 minutes we left the bird in peace happy at a very good start to the day. We then looked for a very range restricted endemic and down a little embankment in a gully we found a couple of Black-ringed White-eyes birds that only occur in this southern area of Sulawesi. While we were sitting watching the white-eyes Carlos called Flycatcher, it was a Sulawesi Streaked Flycatcher, to be honest at the angle we were looking I couldn t really see line/blobs rather than streaks. However when we got back to the road I saw the Flycatcher totally out in the open and started snapping away, the bird turned face on to Carlos and he whispered pass your camera and he got what he thinks are the best photos ever of this recently described bird. Carlos was really annoyed that he didn t have his camera, he put it in the car which had driven up the road, so he ran up the hill to get it, the bird meanwhile continued to display and even called and I think I got some better shots albeit not as diagnostic. 15 minutes later Carlos came back with his Camera but the bird although still around was hawking insects further back in the tree. Carlos posted a copy of the photos on an Indonesian Bird site and started a mini twitch including one of the authors of the new field guide. On the walk up the road we heard a couple of Piping Crows and managed to obtain a decent view at the top of a tree. Other birds around included Sulawesi Malkoha, White-necked Myna, Lesser Coucal, Grey-rumped Tree-swift, Uniform Swiftlet, and Grey-sided Flowerpecker.

17 The local guide then heard some macaques and led us into the forest where there was a troop of Moors Macaques including an eye-catching grey male who wanted feeding, although not allowed, the guy from the park did throw the troop the odd banana, obviously his way of ensuring that they come to him when he takes parties into the forest. We had seen the target birds and the macaques without going into the National Park head-quarters and before the road got busy, it was still only 8am. So we decided to head to the airport via some fields where a couple of tricky birds could be found. First we tried for Pale-headed Munia but only Black-headed were around but the other target Lesuere s Triller was spotted by Sarah flying into a nearby tree and we got good views, only other birds seen were Wood Sandpiper, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Eastern Cattle Egret, White-breasted Woodswallow, Sahul Sunbird and Pacific Swallow. On arrival at the airport everything looked OK for our flight but then there were delays dues to Operation Issues (this seemed to be code words for problems with planes coming from Bali being impacted by the active Volcano there). A couple of hours later we were called and madness ensued, we were on the tarmac with buses for three different planes all in the same area, we got on a bus that was heading to Palu plane, and got on the plane but no sign of Carlos, fortunately we had got seats with extra leg-room at the emergency exit and he had been given a seat at the back of the plane. The plane eventually took off a couple of hours late and we landed in Palu in central Sulawesi just as it was getting dark. We met up with our driver for the next few days and headed directly to Sendy s Guest House in Wuasa near Lore Lindu national park with no stops along the way for birding. Lore Lindu N.P near Lake Tambling and Lake Wanga We were based in lowlands, making daily forays to the mid and higher reaches of the park for some of the really special endemics of Sulawesi. Our first day started at Lake Tambling where arrived around 4.00 for breakfast and some roadside owling, we tried for the Lore Lindu sub-species of Cinnibar Boobook and managed to see the bird pretty well but then a Minhassa Masked Owl called from very nearby, Carlos had told us that he had once seen the Minhassa at Lore Lindu but I had more or less given up hope after our time trying for this bird in the North of Sulawesi where until recently people thought it was endemic to. The bird flew within 10 meters of Carlos but despite wanting to see the bird the only thing that we saw with any certainty was the Boobook flying and I just couldn t convince myself I had seen it despite Carlos thinking we must have seen it (certainly not ticked as a lifer so we will try again). After this we headed back to the car-park for some coffee and very easy birding. We quickly added Sulawesi Heleia, Black-crowned White-eye, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Mountain Whiteeye, Citrine Canary Tit (Flycatcher), Grosbeak Myna, Grey-streaked Flycatcher, Snowy-browed Flycatcher and Sulawesi Cuckoo Dove before had to work a little harder to add two beautiful blue birds, Hoevell s Warbling Flycatcher and the irruptive and never easy to see Blue-faced Parrotfinch. We headed behind the new building to some fruiting trees and saw Western Superb Fruit-Dove, Meyers Lorikeet and at the top of the tree a Flame-browed Myna - a great trio of colourful birds. Off the road and on the various steep trails things got a bit harder we tried without success for Heinrichia and Sulawesi Ground Dove, but then our local guide Indris pointed us at a Maroon-backed

18 Whistler a glorious bird to look down with his maroon colours glowing on his back and a very tricky bird to see (it was heard only after that sighting), we also saw Red-eared Fruit Dove and Malia on that trail. Then under some cover on the boardwalk we had Sunda Swamphen, Sunda Teal, Pacific Black Duck, Wandering and Spotted Whistling Ducks, Darter, Spotted Dove, Asian Palm Swift, and Eastern Yellow Wagtail. The weather then started to turn and in the heavy rain we decided that today we would head downhill and do some birding near a newly board-walked area at Lake Wanga then try for Grass owl at a nearby site. It was a good call I think; as it was extremely dull and raining quite heavy for most of the afternoon and by night time the rain was torrential. From the car we added Pied Bushchat, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Spotted Dove, Barred Rail, and Rufous-winged Buzzard. Once we got to the fields for the owl, the rain eased and we added Buff-banded Rail, Purple Heron, Javan Pond Heron, Scaly Munia, Wood sandpiper, Glossy Ibis, Grey Wagtail before the star of the show Eastern Grass Owl emerged and started quartering the field. It was too dull and distant for any decent photos but Carlos in his shorts and sandals just walked across the flooded paddies to get closer and take some record shots. The rain then started again and all we saw on the way back to Sendy s was a Bush-hen running across a field. The rain was torrential but we still made plans for early dinner and bed time, up at and off at so we could be up the Anaso trail before first light. Anaso trail with a change of plan In our guide it says the higher reaches of the Lore Lindu park are accessible along a famed old logging road, the Anaso Trail, and home to four of the most wanted endemics; Diabolical Nightjar, Geomalia, Great Shortwing and one of the world s most spectacular bee-eaters; Purple-bearded Bee-eater. The bee-eater breeds in roadside banks and often perches conspicuously.., so pretty high expectations. We got up at 1am and things were not looking good as the rain was still very heavy, Carlos shouted across the rooms and said lets go back to bed for a couple of hours and leave at So a couple of hours later than planned we got up again and the rain was much lighter

19 By the time we got up to the trail area the rain was pretty much off but we set off in full waterproof gear. No sooner were we about to start walking and the Minhassa Masked Owl called this bird was proving a real pain as it once again came close but wouldn t come to the trail or the road side. It was clear that we weren t going to get very far up the trail before daylight and that became more so when we heard the distinctive French horn tuning sound of a Sombre Pigeon, we had been told yesterday that only one other group had seen this bird here, so we had to try for it and the bird flew in right above me. Carlos was up the trail a bit and managed a record shot but my camera was in a waterproof cover (rubble sack) inside my rucksack, trying to get it out when every rustle was seemingly magnified was hell but I finally got it out only to find it was switched on with a nearly dead battery, so I managed just six shots of the Sombre Pigeon in the gloom before I had to find another battery and with that second movement the bird flew further away. Still a great start and the shots were Ok - I think. A couple of people have asked us how hard is the Anaso trail to bird, I think in perfect weather probably no problem, just a few long steep climbs albeit with very little respite in between to take a breather, but taken slowly probably OK but with the 15 hours of heavy rain causing the scree and rocks to be slippery and the muddy areas to be very wet we found it hard and Sarah even with a walking pole struggled to do any more than look at her feet due to uncertainty and fear of slipping. In fact for an hour after the Pigeon sighting when we were seeing nothing and it was clear that we wouldn t be up to the mid-point before 7.00am we were not enjoying it at all. The thought crossed Carlos s mind to try again tomorrow and do it early as planned today, we discussed it briefly and I slipped back and raised the subject with Sarah, she told me in the most un-ladylike language that she was not setting foot on the trail again tomorrow. So I conveyed the news and we agreed that we needed to get everything we could up here today. We passed the area for the bee-eaters but decided to try later when the day was warmer and birds more active and headed directly to the area near the old Helipad. Here the local guide Indris checked a few places and found a couple of well disguised Diabolical (Satanic) Nightjar s the birds were only hiding behind a single little plant but until seen very closely were well hidden. A few nice photos, the sun was out and our rain gear off and suddenly we felt much happier. Just a couple of hundred meters higher we were trying for Heinrichia (Great Shortwing) but the bird showing was a Snowy-browed Flycatcher, this was to be a pattern; when we heard the Hylocitrea (previously known as Olive-flanked Whistler) and saw two birds on top of a bush with a couple of Mountain White-eye. We then added Red-eared Fruit Dove and were just getting to the next pass area when unexpectedly a Geomalia showed on the path in front of us and then shot into the undergrowth. No other group this year had seen this bird so despite the dodgy start and the fear that we were too late to see the Geomalia and might struggle with Nightjars (it was now 8.00am) we had been lucky and seen the Geomalia without even trying to call it in. We tried a few more places for Heinrichia unsuccessfully and couldn t find any thrushes and decided not to walk to the highest pass for possible Indonesian Serin. Instead we headed back to the helipad area, the Nightjar s were now well hidden in the vegetation and I struggled to see the birds despite knowing where they were, we had a snack before going down to the area (clear evidence of recent earthquake with an obvious detour path) and we sat and waited for the bee-eaters. 30 minutes passed (nothing) we didn t want to come back up as per last discussion so we decided to give it another hour. Fortunately a bird came after about 20 minutes and was then joined by his partner.

20 The birds showed well but the light was for the most part completely wrong to capture the beauty of this colourful bird in close-up, the Purple Bearded Bee-eater was one of Sarah s top targets for the trip, although I did get a few distant record shots that shows the colours. We had some lunch and a rest at the visitor centre before doing some birding round the reserve area. We saw Superb and Redeared Fruit Doves and a feeding flock comprised several more endemics; Yellow-vented Whistler, Sulawesi Heleia (Streak-headed White-eye), Blue-fronted Flycatcher, Cerulean Cuckooshrike, Sulawesi (Rusty-bellied) Fantail, and Lesser Myza (Sulawesi Honeyeater). Just before dark we birded a local town for White-eyes and Flowerpecker but didn t find anything unusual and overhead only saw Black eagle before the rain kicked in. Back at Sendy s which was very friendly and had good food we confirmed we would not go up the Anaso Trail again tomorrow instead we would try for the remaining target birds on the trails off the road. Sendy s guest house is by all accounts the best accommodation in the area but it isn t luxurious and the toilet facilities an adventure; with limited running water. You fill a plastic bin when there is water from an outlet tap and use that water to fill a bucket that you mix with a hot flask to have a body wash / shower/ and wash hands etc., we were glad we had some little bars of soap, the bin is also used to scoop water to flush the toilet which although western in style had no toilet seat and flushed to a drain that ran behind the room, so a little smelly. That said the room was clean, the bed comfortable and with a seating area to relax on and do our lists and it had electricity most of the time to charge batteries and read etc. We also had one of the best laundry services we have ever had with clothes returned quickly, pristine and fresh smelling despite the day having lots of rain. We found 4 nights and not the original 5 nights here was plenty of time. Lore Lindu mid elevation trails We were probably only looking for 4 or 5 birds now and the first one we tried for was the Minhassa Masked Owl, but again it was heard only. I think Carlos now felt it was a failing on his part that we hadn t seen this bird and we had only two attempts left with a different strategy in mind. The next targets were Heinrichia and Sulawesi Ground Dove, we tried two sites for the Shortwing with no success although in both cases we saw Snowy-browed Flycatcher respond to the call and one even perched on the log with the speaker on it. On the third attempt I even managed to stay quiet when I was stung twice, but still no bird, we then heard a Ground Dove and set up the speaker on a trail behind some logs, the Ground Dove played cat and mouse with us for over an hour calling, coming close, moving away, coming back but no matter how we positioned we couldn t see the bird. We did see Golden-bellied Gerygone, and the first real target of the morning Pygmy (Mountain) Cicadabird, then Piping Crow, Citrine Canary Flycatcher and finally before a rest and lunch Sulawesi Leaf Warbler and Mountain Leaftoiler. Surprisingly we had a few leaches up here which the local guide and Carlos were surprised by, but not enough to warrant wearing our leach socks.

21 After a nice lunch and a nap in the ranger office, they gave up their sofa and chairs to us, we tried for and got the tricky Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker near the car park. We added Sulawesi Babbler drinking by the leaking taps, probably the same Blue-faced Parrotfinch as before, Hoevell s Warbling Flycatcher and Black-naped oriole before trying again on various territories for the Shortwing. It was actually our 6 th attempt of the day, up a very steep track, climbing rather than walking in one area, where we finally got great views of the female Heinrichia (it used to be known as Great Shortwing but is now known to be closer to Bornean Shade-dweller, the bird previously known as Eye-browed Jungle Flycatcher) as she ran around mouse like responding to our calls. Of course we had left our cameras behind due to the difficulty of the short climb, so no shots of this rare bird where the female is more striking than the male with the blue showing well, rusty chin and throat and white eye patch and then for good measure a male then started calling to the female, that was our cue to get back down to the road in a happy frame of mind. We tried calling some Malia in the hope that some Thrushes would be a mixed flock, but today it was just Malia and Lemon-bellied White-eyes with them. Our new strategy for the owl was to get to a high spot in the forest where the Minhassa had previously been calling just before dark, sit quietly with no lights until the owl calls and then try to call him in and spotlight him. We got up there and found a likely spot; sat and waited but wouldn t you know it the rain just started and got heavy as it got dark, we gave up and went slithering back down to the road. Just one more chance for the Owl that Carlos was pretty bullish about getting right from day one. I had probably given up when we left Sulawesi for Halmahera so it was with hope but no great expectation that we had tried. Final Morning at Lore Lindu and search for Buttonquail So up and off at 3.30am for the last time. We were planning to walk into the forest if we heard the Minhassa Owl call and then put out torches and wait for a bit. However birds don t play by the rules and this owl certainly didn t he was calling by the road as we got out the car and then called from the lake side of the road where we couldn t access the forest, also calling was the Cinnibar Boobook. We tried a little half-heartedly to call the Minhassa but with no success but if we were told in advance that we would have had 8 new owls and an Owlet-Nightjar all seen really well I would have taken that. The main target for today was the Thrush and I think we had called Malia s for the third time before a mixed flock got going and amongst them at the top a tree was a Sulawesi Thrush which we both got on OK but couldn t manage a decent photo, come to think of it all the Malia shots were also of bits of birds not a whole bird so the tail and legs of a thrush wasn t too bad. In the air we had Sulawesi Swiftlet, Grey-rumped Treeswift and

22 Glossy Swiftlet and finished with Short-tailed Starling and Lesser Myza. We spent the rest of the morning just trying to get better photos of things like Turquoise Warbling Flycatcher, Sulphur-bellied Whistler, Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Flame-browed Myna, Goldenbellied Gerygone, Myer s Lorikeet and Sulawesi Cuckoo Dove. good light. After lunch at Sendy s we were returning to Palu in the afternoon, stopping along the way at Biramaru to try for Redbacked Buttonquail, Savanna Nightjar and the scarce Paleheaded Munia. Just before Biramaru we stopped at some rice field to look for the munia, there we saw Black-headed, Scaly-breasted and Black-faced before a little group of Pale-headed Munia flew over us and towards the very furthest field. Of course we walked all the way around the fields to see the birds OK views and then when we got back to where we started there was 6 birds sitting nearby in In the fields we added Zebra Dove, Buff-banded Rail, Greater Painted Snipe, Javan Pond Heron, Common Sandpiper, Purple Heron and Black-faced Munia to the daily list. After another short drive at the roost area for Savannah Nightjar I sort of embarrassed myself, Carlos was pointing ahead; a Nightjar flew and I shouted to Sarah Savannah and tried to grab a photo, although not a lifer it was a bird we had only seen a couple of times and nightjars are always a bit special, especially in daylight but Carlos was pointing at the ground and we missed the Buttonquail, we saw loads of Nightjars after that, they were active despite it being an hour before dark, we also saw a couple of Stephan s Dove a bird that we hadn t ticked at Tangkoko as views were too fleeting to discount Emerald Doves. Also around was a Little Bronze Cuckoo (Gould s), Sulewesi Pygmy Woodpecker, Sulawesi Fantail and Sulawesi Babbler. We had been going for 4 or 5 hours since our early lunch, the males had managed toilet stops in the bushes as we walked but Sarah needed to find a more secluded spot, of course as soon as she went for a comfort break a Red-backed Buttonquail, ran across the track right in front of us, it took an another 20 minutes and with darkness almost upon us before we saw two birds very well in the scrub and the birds ran in and out for a few minutes to end the day and the birding part of the trip on a high note with a lifer, the third of the afternoon. We found that we were now staying in the Mercure Hotel a lovely hotel with relatively luxurious rooms after Sendy s and great views over the harbour and the iconic Palu Bridge an ideal way to end our stay on Sulawesi. Departures to Jakarta from Palu airport We had a flight to Jakarta at 7.15 whilst Carlos was heading back to Manado on an indirect flight at It meant we could travel to the airport together; only about a 25 minute drive at 5.30 in the morning; after a nice breakfast that started at 5am as a few flight crews also seemed to use this hotel. So it could be used as a birding base if you want a bit of luxury when birding the Palu area. Check-ins were easy and we said our goodbyes in the lounge just before we boarded at nearby gates. Even with the time difference we were back and reunited with our luggage and in a cab to the Shangri- La hotel by We had booked this 5 star hotel on Expedia on one of the regular offers that come through with various discounts to be selected I got lucky on this one with over 50% off the

23 best price and an upgrade to a Horizon Room (free snacks and drinks). The hotel also has pretty good grounds and a nearby river which offered some birding. Last Days Although we had a possible sight for Javan Coucal, it meant an early start and after a few drinks and a nice couple of meals we decided to relax on both our days in Jakarta and only did a little birding around the hotel grounds. There was nothing too exciting to see just doves, munias, bulbuls, kites, etc. but we did add a lifer in Red-breasted Parakeet, we saw small flocks of these each day looking as though they were flying to a roost in the trees near the river. We decided will bird Java properly in our next trip to Indonesia. Summary A great trip with all logistics handled really well by Birdtour Asia. Carlos as he promised was really hard working and really did go the extra mile to try to find us a bird. He was also very personable and easy to talk to. While I mentioned Owls, Kingfishers, Doves and Pitta in the title of this trip report that was only because we were looking at various books and couldn t believe we had the chance of so many excellent birds. In fact for Owls (8 new birds seen), Kingfishers (13 seen 9 of them new), Pigeons and Doves (25 seen 18 new) and 3 new Pittas it was excellent but it could have been about Honeyeaters, Parrots and Hornbills or just the Wallace s Standard-wing and the Owlet Nightjar. There were so many excellent birds which hopefully this report wets your appetite for trying to see. (for any further info you can contact dviblair@gmail.com or srablair@sky.com )

24 Bird List Spotted Whistling-Duck Moustached Treeswift Wandering Whistling-Duck Grey-rumped Treeswift Pacific Black Duck Asian Palm Swift Sunda Teal Glossy Swiftlet Maleo Halmahera Swiftlet Tabon Scrubfowl Sulawesi Swiftlet Dusky Scrubfowl Uniform Swiftlet Tri-coloured Grebe Purple Needletail Rock Dove Molùccan Owlet Nightjar Red-collared Dove Satanic Nightjar Spotted Dove Great-eared Nightjar Sulawesi Cuckoo Dove Savanna Nightjar Sultan's Cuckoo Dove Barred Rail White-faced Cuckoo Dove Buff-banded Rail Great Cuckoo Dove White-browed Crake Zebra Dove Sulawesi Bush-hen Nicobar Pigeon Pale-vented Bush-hen Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon Sunda Swamphen Stephan's Dove Common Moorhen Red-eared Fruit Dove Dusky Moorhen Oberhosler's Fruit Dove Pied Stilt Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove Pacific Golden Plover Superb Fruit Dove Western Greater Painted snipe Blue-capped Fruit Dove Common Sandpiper Grey-headed Fruit Dove Wood Sandpiper Black-naped Fruit Dove Common Greenshank Sombre Pigeon Marsh Sandpiper White-bellied Imperial Pigeon Red-necked Stint Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon Swinhoe's Snipe Green Imperial Pigeon Eurasian Whimbrel Moluccan Imperial Pigeon Red-backed Buttonquail Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon Barred Buttonquail Pied Imperial Pigeon Greater Crested Tern Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon Oriental Darter Sulawesi Malkoha Glossy Ibis Sulawesi Brush Cuckoo Yellow Bittern Australian Brush Cuckoo Black-Bittern Gould's Bronze Cuckoo Eastern Cattle Egret Black-billed Koel Intermediate Egret Lesser Coucal Grey Heron Goliath Coucal Purple Heron Bay Coucal Little Egret Halmahera Friarbird Pacific Reef Egret Javan Pond Heron Striated Heron Chinese Egret Black-crowned Night Heron Osprey Black-winged Kite Sulawesi Honey Buzzard Sulawes Serpent Eagle Sulawesi Hawk Eagle Rufous-bellied Eagle Black Eagle Gurney's Eagle White-bellied Sea Eagle Black Kite Brahminy Kite Rufous-winged Buzzard Spotted Harrier Spot-tailed Goshawk Varied Goshawk Halmahera Goshawk Sulawesi Goshawk Japanese Sparrowhawk Small Sparrowhawk Eastern Grass Owl Sulawesi Masked Owl Moluccan Scops Owl Sulawesi Scops Owl Oche-bellied Boobook Cinnabar Boobook Halmahera Boobook Speckled Boobook Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill Blyth's Hornbill Knobbed Hornbill Ashy Woodpecker Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker Green-backed Kingfisher Black-headed Kingfisher Scaly Kingfisher Common Paradise Kingfisher Sulawesi Lilac Kingfisher Great-billed Kingfisher Ruddy Kingfisher Blue and White Kingfisher Sombre Kingfisher Collared Kingfisher Beach Kingfisher Sacred Kingfisher Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Common Kingfisher Purple-bearded Bee-eater Blue-tailed Bee-eater Sulawesi Roller Dollarbird Azure Dollarbird Indonesian Kestrel Oriental Hobby Peregrine Falcon Umbrella Cockatoo Chattering Lory Violet-necked Lory Ornate Lorikeet Meyer's Lorikeet Red-flanked Lorikeet Minhassa Racket-tail Sulawesi Racket-tail Red-cheeked Parrot Great-billed Parrot Blue-backed Parrot Red-breasted Parakeet Ecĺectus Parrot Moluccan King Parrot Sulawesi Hanging Parrot Pygmy Hanging Parrot Moluccan Hanging Parrot Sulawesi Sahul Pitta Sultan's Sahul Pitta Ivory-breasted Pitta Dusky Myzomela Sulawesi Myzomela Lesser Myza White-rumped Cuckooshrike Sulawesi Fantail White-naped Monarch Greater Myza Moluccan Cuckooshrike Gilolo Fantail Wallacean Monarch Golden-bellied Gerygone White-bellied Cuckooshrike Willie Fantail Long-billed Crow Halmahera Oriole Pied Cuckooshrike White-eyed Spangled Drongo Sulawesi Crow Black-naped Oriole Cerulean Cuckooshrike Sulawesi Spangled Drongo Piping Crow Maroon-backed Whistler Mountain Cicadabird Halmahera Spangled Drongo Citrine Canary Tit Sulphur-bellied Whistler Halmahera Cicadabird Halmahera Paradise Crow Barn Swallow Moluccan Whistler Wallacean Cicadabird Wallace's Standard-wing Pacific Swallow Drab Whistler Sulawesi Triller Pale-blue Monarch Sooty-headed Bulbul White-breasted Woodswallow Rufous-bellied Triller Shining Monarch Sunda Yellow-vented Bulbul Ivory-backed Woodswallow Lesuere's Triller Moluccan Monarch Halmahera Golden Bulbul

25 Sulawesi Babbler Sulawesi Grasshopper Warbler Grey-streaked Flycatcher Blue-faced Parrotfinch Sulawesi Heleia Gray's Grasshopper Warbler Sulawesi Streaked Flycatcher Black-faced Munia Lemon-bellied White-eye Golden-headed Cisticola Turquoise Warbling-Flycatcher Scaly-breasted Munia Black-crowned White-eye Hylocitrea Matinan Warbling-Flycatcher Black-headed Munia Black-ringed White-eye Metallic Starling Hoevell's Warbling-Flycatcher Pale-headed Munia Halmahera White-eye Moluccan Starling Heinrichia (Great Shortwing) Javan Munia Mountain White-eye Short-tailed Starling Snowy-browed Flycatcher Tree Sparrow Arctic Leaf Warbler Grosbeak Myna Pied Bushchat Eastern Yellow Wagtail Sulawesi Leaf Warbler Flame-browed Myna Yellow-sided Flowerpecker Grey Wagtail North Moluccan Leaf Warbler White-necked Myna Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker Pechora Pipit Mountain Leaftoiler Short-crested Myna Halmahera Flowerpecker Paddyfield Pipit Australasian Reed Warbler Sulawesi Thrush Grey-sided Flowerpecker Malia Geomalia Black Sunbird Tawny Grassbird Red-backed Thrush Sahul Sunbird Other Wildlife Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel Sulawesi Crested Macaque Gorontola Macaque Moor s Macaque Halmahera Python Lore Lindu Comet Sulawesi Black Frog Spectral Tarsier