ORNITHOLIDAYS TOUR TO CHILE Tierra del Fuego & Torres del Paine. 28 November - 12 December Leaders: Enrique Couve and Nigel Jones

Transcription

1 ORNITHOLIDAYS TOUR TO CHILE Tierra del Fuego & Torres del Paine 28 November - 12 December 2016 Leaders: Enrique Couve and Nigel Jones

2 ORNITHOLIDAYS TOUR TO CHILE Tierra del Fuego & Torres del Paine 28 November 12 December 2016 A Personal Diary Ornitholidays has been visiting Chile since the early 1990s and we have constantly refined our itineraries. This now means we have two trips to this large, elongated country a northern one, that takes in the highaltitude lakes near Arica, the coastal lowlands near Putre, the dry areas of the Atacama Desert and the lush rainforests and lakes of central Chile. The southern one now is based in Patagonia, with most of the times spent in Tierra del Fuego and the stunning Torres del Paine National Park. This report is based on this second tour, where Enrique Couve (author of the new Field Guide to Chile) was our guide. We were fortunate with good weather virtually throughout the tour but the winds in Torres del Paine were occasionally strong! The highlight of the tour was spending five nights nestled under the towering snow-covered spikes in Torres del Paine here we had Andean Condors soaring overhead and Puma watching the plentiful Guanacos. The scenery was truly magnificent. The Patagonia steppe and Tierra del Fuego were a real contrast with a low lying, windswept landscape of lakes, rugged shorelines, river valleys and stunted forests. Here we were treated to the enigmatic Magellanic Plover, the mighty Magellanic Woodpecker and some great encounters with King Penguins, Black-browed Albatrosses, Chilean Flamingos and Lesser Rheas. The accommodation and food overall was very good and all in all it is a great itinerary - with something for everyone! 28 November Most of the party met at London Heathrow for the flight to Paris Although our departure from Heathrow was delayed, our flight to Charles de Gaulle airport was quick and we had some time to kill in Paris before our next flight. It was around midnight when we took off and started our route to Santiago a mere 7,500 miles away! Between London and Santiago there is just three hours time difference, yet we seem to have travelled almost halfway round the world. 29 November We arrived half an hour early into Santiago where it was hot and sunny. After immigration and collecting our luggage we met up with Anna-Maria and our driver at around We drove into Santiago to our hotel where our rooms were ready so we could freshen up before going out for the afternoon. We met up with Peter and Juliet who had arrived a few days earlier so they could spend some time in Santiago. We meet up at and set off for the ski report of Farellones to the east of Santiago; en route we stopped at a Chilean restaurant Dona Tina for lunch. Some of the group tried the interesting Chilean dish Pastel de choco a corn and meat pie baked in individual earthenware dishes. We then drove up a winding road to a grassy area at around 2,600m where we stopped for a walk. On the way up we had passed an American Kestrel, Eared Dove, Common Diuca-Finch, Chilean Mockingbird, Long-tailed Meadowlark and Andrew spotted a rare Chiguanco Thrush. As we disembarked we spotted several Blackwinged Ground-Doves, Scale-throated Earthcreeper and White-browed Ground-Tyrant. Walking a little further we came across Rufous-banded Miners. A Variable (Puna) Hawk flew overhead and two Andean Condors were spotted over the distant hills. In amongst a jumble of rocks were Greater Yellowfinch, Rufous-collared Sparrow and Greyhooded Sierra-Finch. A highlight for many was an overhead Andean Condor being attacked by a Variable Hawk. As we walked towards another rocky outcrop we found a Cordilleran Canastero - as we watched this bird it disappeared into a rocky crevice and on further investigation we discovered that it had a nest there, so we left it in peace. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 1

3 We moved on closer to the resort of Farellones itself, seeing Blackwinged and Picui Ground-Doves and Buff-winged Cinclodes. A perched Mourning Sierra-Finch on a bush beside the road was seen well from the bus. At a stop beside a small steam and flooded field we found Greyflanked Cinclodes and in a tree next to the road was a magnificent Magellanic Horned Owl, which gave excellent views. In the bushes were both Black-chinned and Yellow-rumped Siskins, which we able to compare. On our return journey, a Culpeo Fox was seen next to the road and at a short stop some of the group had a brief view of Dusky-tailed Canastero, while a Moustached Turca was heard. We enjoyed supper in the hotel with wine and were joined by Claudio from the ground agents who explained that Enrique had been delayed by bad weather on the Juan Fernandez Islands and would be meeting us a little later than planned but Sebastian would be stepping into the breech. 30 November At we had an early breakfast at the hotel before departing for Santiago Airport where we said goodbye to Claudio, who had accompanied us, and checked-in for our flight to Punta Arenas. Our three-hour direct flight to Punta Arenas took off, and arrived on time. Some of the group were able to book a window seat, so that during the flight they were able to appreciate aerial views of some of Chile s most stunning scenery, with views of the mountain cordillera and even some active volcanos. At Punta Arenas we were met by Sebastian, our guide and Jose our driver, and set off for some birding. Today was our introduction to the sights and sounds of Patagonia. Our first stop was at Parco Chabunco close to the airport where we walked for a short distance beside the sea. Our first birds here were Kelp Gull, Crested Duck, Imperial Cormorant and Magellanic Oystercatcher. A little further along the coast we came across a couple of Flying Steamer-Ducks and a South American Tern. We returned to vehicle and ate our picnic lunch consisting of filled rolls, fruit, crisps and biscuits, while were travelled to our next site. From the bus we spotted our first Upland Goose, Buff-necked Ibis and several stately Lesser Rheas with small, fluffy chicks. We stopped close to a saline lagoon and once we had managed to manoeuvre the group though the wire fence we walked along the edge of the water looking for plovers. We saw a Twobanded Plover and a Baird s Sandpiper and then as we walked round a spur of the lake we were very lucky to find a Magellanic Plover in the foam at the edge of the lake. It was difficult to see as it blended in with the froth but then a second bird was found on a grass and rocky area which gave us all wonderful views. We then retraced our footsteps to the bus seeing Longtailed Meadowlark, House Wren and Whiterumped Sandpiper. A couple of Coscoroba Swans flew low overhead and at another small lake close to the road we found Silver Teal and Yellow-billed Pintail. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 2

4 On our journey back to Punta Arenas we saw a few Chilean Flamingos and a Brown Hare. A drive by the sea close to the port at Punta Arenas gave us views of Flightless Steamer-Duck, Southern Giant Petrel, Rock Cormorant, Black-browed Albatross out to sea and Dark-bellied Cinclodes on the rock by our feet. We also saw Peale s Dolphins leaping out of the water and a whale blow (although we didn t see the whale). We then checked into our hotel at around 18.00, and completed the checklist before supper. We all retired early as it had been a long day. 01 December We had breakfast at and left at with Sebastian and Jose and firstly we drove along by the sea close to the port of Punta Arenas finding birds such as Rock and Imperial Cormorants, Southern Giant Petrel, Black-browed Albatross, Magellanic Oystercatcher and Kelp, Dolphin and Brown-hooded Gulls. We visited a wetland area called Tres Puntes just outside the town. Here we found one Magallanic Snipe close to the road and another two close to the water s edge. On the lake were numerous ducks including Chiloe Wigeon, Speckled Teal, Red Shoveler, Yellow-billed Pintail and Crested Duck as well as Red-gartered and White-winged Coots and several Tufted Grebes with small babies riding on their parent s back. The photographers were delighted. Among the waders were White-rumped Sandpiper and Lesser Yellowlegs and a Franklin s Gull put in an appearance. After about an hour of enjoying the wildlife spectacle here we left to explore the eastern edge of the Brunswick Peninsula toward the southernmost point on the South American mainland at Cape Froward. As we travelled along the coast we made various stops. At one stop we found a male and female Kelp Goose close to the water s edge and at another a group of Chilean Flamingos. A Black-chested Buzzard flew overhead and we had our first Ashy-headed Goose flying above us. Upland Geese seemed to be everywhere. At we turned off the main road towards Parrillar. We saw several Brown Hares and Austral Blackbirds as the road became a gravel track passing through pastures. We arrived at a forested area where there were many large Nothofagus Beech trees. We got out of the vehicle and walked along the road finding Blackchinned Siskin, Thorn-tailed Rayadito and had brief views of Austral Parakeets high in a tree and flying over. We also saw Patagonian Sierra-Finch and a Fire-eyed Diucon. Sebastian tried hard to find a Magellanic Woodpecker by banging two sticks together to imitate their drumming call but we failed to find one here. We would have to look elsewhere! We returned to the bus and drove back down to the sea finding a pair of Spectacled Ducks on a small pond, and Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 3

5 then continued our journey south. At one stop we were able to see Upland, Ruddy-headed and Ashy-headed Geese in a group all in the same field of view. The South American population of Ruddy-headed Geese has been reduced to a few hundred birds, due to excessive livestock farming and by the introduction of the Grey Fox to control rabbits. In the afternoon we walked along the banks of the Rio San Juan, again looking for Magellanic Woodpecker, in this we were unlucky but we did find Blackcrowned Night-Heron, Barn Swallow, White-throated Treerunner, White-crested Elaenia and House Wren. A surprise was a Coypu at the edge of a stream that we watched before it disappeared into the vegetation on the bank. We turned back, around 20km from the tip of the peninsular, as you could only walk further south from here. We came across a Dark-bellied Cinclodes next to the road. Sebastian had one more site for us to visit to look for the woodpecker. We walked through the wood but could not hear any woodpecker sounds. Then a female flew into the trees in front of the group, giving excellent view before disappearing into a hole in a tree. We had found a nest as well as seeing the bird! On our return journey we stopped to see four Magellanic Penguins swimming in the sea. Black-browed Albatross flew close to us, as well as Chilean Skua and South American Terns. Our final new birds were Blackish and American Oystercatchers. We return to the hotel at and enjoyed supper and completed the bird list. We had an update on Enrique who had now managed to get back as the weather had improved and he would be joining us tomorrow. 02 November We had an early breakfast at and met Enrique and Jose at the bus We then drove the short distance to the car ferry that would take us across the narrow entrance to the Straits of Magellan and so to Tierra del Fuego. Waiting for the ferry we only saw a few species such as Kelp Gull, Southern Giant Petrel and Blackbrowed Albatross. The ferry left at and most to the group were outside at the bow to look for sea birds. We were lucky to spot Magellanic Diving-Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Wilson s Storm-Petrel, King Cormorant, Grey-headed Albatross and Sooty Shearwater as well as Peale s Dolphins. Andrew spotted a Brown Skua. As we approached Porvenir we saw some South American Fur-Seals. Porvenir is the capital and the largest city of the province of Chilean Tierra del Fuego and was founded in 1894 as a result of a gold rush. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 4

6 We reached our hotel at 11.30, having stopped to watch Great Grebes on the way. It is one of the oldest buildings in Porvenir, largely made of wood and converted by Enrique and his eldest son into a warm and welcoming hostel. We were allocated our rooms and ate our picnic lunches there and helped ourselves to hot drinks. We left around and drove northwards towards to Lagoon Verde. We had good view of Southern Crested Caracara, Correndera Pipit and Short-billed Miner. A couple of Eared Doves were on the wire and we had great view of Least Seedsnipe from the bus. In the pools and grassy areas close to road were Baird s Sandpipers and Two-banded Plovers. Many Guanacos and Brown Hares were seen in the pastures. We stopped at a track for a walk and found Patagonia Yellow-Finch, Blue-and-white Swallow, Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch, Plainmantled Tit-Spinetail, Scale-throated Earthcreeper and Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant. We went past a farm where they were shearing sheep, but we were unable to go inside to watch due to their health and safety regulations. A litter further, at another pool, were hundreds of Coscoroba Swans as well as Black-necked Swan, Great Grebe, Speckled Teal, Red-gartered Coot and Chiloe Wigeon. We returned to Porvenir and travelled southeastwards to the Cordon Baquedano hills. There were lovely Firebushes on the hillside showing off their red flowers. At a stop on the hillside we found Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Fire-eyed Diucon, and Blackchinned Siskin. We saw several Grey Foxes and an Austral Canastero. A little further on, the flat tops to the hills became moorland, dominated by the domed bosses of Balsam Bog and the heather-like Diddle-dee, both species familiar to anyone who had visited the Falkland Islands This is the habitat for Red-chested Dotterel and we soon had great views of two or three of these stunning birds. We drove back to the hotel and met up a little later to drive to a restaurant where the fish was much enjoyed. Later back at the hotel we completed the birdlist before bed. 03 December We had a later breakfast this morning and left at to drive south to the entrance to Useless Bay where there is a King Penguin colony. It was raining today but during our journey we saw many of the birds that we had seen previously including Coscoroba Swan, Chilean Flamingo, Yellow-billed Pintail, White-tufted Grebe and Grey-headed Sierra-Finch. We also saw Black-necked Swan and by the sea was a spectacle of hundreds of South American Terns. We arrived at the centre where we could use the facilities and were given a talk about the King Penguins by the guide. By now it had just about stopped raining and we walked down to a screen where we could look across a small river to the colony on the other bank. There were many adult penguins with a few chicks, at least one of which resembled a large fluffy barrel! The photographers amongst us had a field day. We stayed with the penguins for around two hours and ate our packed lunches. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 5

7 It had start to rain a little more as we commenced our return journey and we didn t make any stops for a while. We passed an area where mining was carried out during the gold rush in the late 19 th century. We went back over the hill and found some more Red-chested Dotterel, although there were not very close. We eventually found White-bridled Finch close to the road so all the group could see them. Supper was taken at the same restaurant in Porvenir this evening and many enjoyed the local caramel ice cream. Later we returned to the hotel to complete the birdlist. 04 December The road to the eastern ferry terminal took us past lakes and ponds, all with wildfowl and shorebirds. During the course of the morning and its numerous stops we found Baird s Sandpiper, Two-banded Plover, Chilean Flamingo, Southern Lapwing, Upland Goose, Southern Giant Petrel and Ruddyheaded Goose. This rolling steppe landscape was sheep rearing country, which Guanacos seemed to like as well. There were small birds too. By the time we reached the ferry we had seen Short-billed Miner, Correndera Pipit and Longtailed Meadowlark, but the highlight was probably the pair of Magellanic Horned Owls roosting on a small rock face. Arriving at the ferry we couldn't believe our bad luck one of the boats was out of action and the first one to come across was only taking gas tankers on its return journey. However, while we were waiting we had views of a couple of Magellanic Penguins and ate our picnic lunches. The crossing was smooth and to our delight we were accompanied by a number of Commerson's Dolphins and for a short period of time had two or three riding the bow-wave below us! We also had Magellanic Diving-Petrel, a pair of Great Grebes and South American Terns from the ferry. On reaching Punta Delgada we continued north. The wetland we had hoped to look for some birds on was dry, as there had been very little rain and snow the previous winter. We took a slight longer route to Puerto Natales and turned off the main road on a dirt track towards Gallego Chico. During our journey we found Least Seedsnipe, Chocolate-vented Tyrant, Band-tailed Earthcreeper and Buff-winged Cinclodes. At one stop close to a small lake we had a small group of Chilean Flamingos, which gave us some great views as they flew overhead, against a stunning clear blue sky. We all loved the Lesser Rheas with small chicks that ran alongside the road. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 6

8 We counted 13 chicks in one of the groups and were worried as two of them seem to go in the wrong direction from the rest and were relieved when they managed to catch up. We turned west and continued along the road fairly close to the Argentinean border and at 17.00, not long before we re-joined the tarmac road, we were lucky to find a pair of Tawny-throated Dotterel the bird we had been hoping to see. As we travelled north we eventually left the steppes behind us and reached the first trees for a couple of days. The Nothofagus were little more than shrubs at first, but soon gave way to proper trees. The farmland, created from cleared forest, was much more luxuriant that the sheep country we had been passing through. We reached our eco-hotel overlooking the long inlet from the sea, where Puerto Natales was founded. The views of snowy peaked mountains from the rooms were splendid and once we had settled in we went straight to dinner, where many enjoyed the very tender beef, or crab, as we watched the sunset over the water from the restaurant. After dinner we were all ready for a good night's sleep. 05 December A few of the group had a walk outside the hotel before breakfast at We were packed up and ready to leave at but first spent a few minutes looking at a grassy field next to the hotel where a Grass Wren was found. Our journey continued on the tarmac road until at 8.40 when we turned off on to the gravel road to Torres del Paine (which means Blue Towers or Mountains in Spanish). Before we reached the park Iain spotted our first Andean Condor here and we came across a couple of fighting Guanacos. By we were at the entrance to the park where we had a comfort stop and walked to a small lake where we looked for Austral Rail, but were unsuccessful. However, we did find Redgartered Coot, Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch and Grass Wren but a Wren-like Rushbird was only heard. Chilean Swallows were flying over the lagoon. At another lagoon further into the park we tried again for Austral Rail, which was heard by all, but only seen by a few of the group as the strong wind kept it hiding in the reeds. Other birds seen at this stop included Yellow-winged Blackbird, Cinerous Harrier and Lake Duck and a Sandy spotted a Plumbeous Sierra- Finch as the rest of the group looked for the rail. We continue to another lake and view point where we had our picnic lunch. Mourning Sierra-Finch and Rufous-tailed Plantcutter were seen on a rocky area with a few scrubby shrubs. We continued over the viaduct to our hotel which we reached at We had some time to go to our rooms and freshen up before we departed for our afternoon excursion at The backdrop was the now the ever-present view of the towers and the snowy peaks around. We set off on a circular tour past the cascades where we found a female Torrent Duck spotted by Andrew and then a male. We also saw Silvery Grebes and Chilean Flamingos. A Chimango Caracara put in an appearance too as well as two fighting male Guanacos Enrique informed us that when the males fight they are aiming to bite the genitalia of the opposing male! As we returned to the hotel we looked in a small grove of trees near to a short bridge where we spotted a Striped Woodpecker. We had supper at and called the birdlist in the restaurant. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 7

9 06 December Some of the party were feeling under the weather but most joined the group to go on an early circuit of the Pampa Handu loop in the hope of finding a Puma. We had hot drinks and cakes at and set off 30 minutes later. All eyes were looking out for a Puma crossing the hills but we only saw the usual birds but did find a Humbold`s Hog-nosed Skunk ambling along close to the road. Then a Puma was spotted sitting in the grass close to the road and we quickly called for the bus to stop. We all had amazing views of the Puma and lots of photographs were taken. Enrique told us it was a female which had probably recently made a kill as she just stretched a bit and lay in the grass, looking very relaxed. We watched her for some time and she eventually walked a little further away from us and lay down again. We left her alone and continued on our way, still looking for other Pumas, as a family with cubs was living close to our route, but we didn t see them. We had good views of Patagonian Mockingbird, Buff-bellied Cinclodes, Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant and Lesser Rhea. We returned for breakfast at After breakfast we set off again at to have a day of looking at the sights of the mountains and lakes from various viewpoints whilst also trying to see the elusive Austral Rail. We were unsuccessful with the rail although we did give it a good chance. It was still windy so although we heard the bird it wouldn t show itself. We had four South American Terns over the river together with Yellow-billed Pintail. We stopped at Pehoe at the campsite where there were wooden cabins for people to stay at. We ate our picnic lunch at the picnic tables there and it was warm in the sun and out of the wind. The delight of our lunch stop was the pair of Southern Crested Caracaras which came down to eat the remains of our rolls. They especially liked the smoked salmon and tried to collect all the pieces in their bill before Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 8

10 they flew off. This usually took some time as they kept dropping pieces! Everyone was able to take great photographs of them. Around the campsite we had White-crested Elaenia and then Enrique called in a pair of Austal Pygmy-Owls which sat and called in a tree in front of us. Austal Parakeets flew overhead as we walked through the campsite and crossed over the road where there was a small shop. As we walked down to the lake we saw a couple of Big Hairy Armadillo that live under the cabins. There were two of them which gave great views as they looked for food under the picnic tables. Rufous-tailed Plantcutters poised on the small bushes for all to see and a Plumbeous Rail was seen by a few at the water s edge. Our final visit of the day was to the visitors centre which had some interesting displays and information about the fire which destroyed nearly 40,000 acres in December 2011 and was caused by some careless tourists. Many trees were destroyed and they are just starting to grow back. We were entertained by an Upland Goose with goslings on the lawn outside. We returned to the hotel and had an hour or so to relax before supper at and we all were soon off to bed after our early start. 07 December We had breakfast at and then set off to go outside the park to explore the Sierra Baguales, an area of spectacular mountain scenery. During the journey, we saw many of the same species we had seen earlier including Chilean Flicker, American Kestrel and Common Miner along with many Guanacos. At one stop we saw a female condor on the ground with several Southern Crested Caracaras at a carcass. She had to walk up the hill to get enough height to be able to take off. Later, we had views of the nest of a Black-chested Buzzard- Eagle where the parents were feeding a baby. We stopped at a small steam at higher elevation in the hills, where it was much colder but we did find Mourning Sierra-Finch, Darkbellied and Buff-winged Cinclodes, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter, Patagonian Mockingbird and a flock of Long-tailed Meadowlarks. Higher up in the mountains we found Grey-breasted Seedsnipe, Greater Yellow-Finch and had wonderful views of Yellow-bridled Finches feeding on dandelions in a meadow. A small pond held the usual waterfowl. tonight. We ate our picnic lunches in the lee of some large rocks. Afterwards, our way was barred by a locked gate so we walked further on in hope of finding White-throated Caracara but we were unsuccessful and Enrique was concerned that they had been persecuted. We returned to the park, spotting two Spectacled Ducks on the river fairly close to the hotel. We had supper at and completed the checklist between courses as the restaurant was busy Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 9

11 08 December We had an early start this morning with hot drinks and cakes at and set off in the hope of finding another Puma. Our visit to Torres del Paine coincides with the Guanacos giving birth to their youngsters, and this can provide a practise ground for young Pumas to perfect their killing technique. At one area, we saw the results of such an event, with the remains of perhaps six young Guanacos. However, as much as we searched, we could not find the culprits. However, there were many attendant scavengers and we saw 20 Andean Condors, 40 Southern Crested Caracara and a Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle. We returned to the hotel for breakfast at and had time to relax before departing for the park at Roy decided to opt out of today s excursion and to walk to the mirador from the hotel instead. It was much windier today and we tried again for Austral Rail but only a few caught a glimpse of it. We returned to the Pehoe picnic stop for lunch as some of the group had missed this due to illness last time. The Southern Crested Caracaras were still keen to eat our left over lunches! We had a walk in the wooded area behind the campsite and had good views of House Wren, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, White-crested Elaenia and Tufted Tit- Tyrant. We drove to a several scenic spots and more photographs were taken of the mountains and lakes. Sue explained that the bright blue colour of the lake was caused by glacial flour (which is fine-grained, silt-sized particles of rock, generated by mechanical grinding of bedrock by glacial erosion). It certainly made for good photographs. At one stop by the edge of a lake we found an Austal Pygmy-Owl in some small trees close to the road which was a catch up bird for some. We tried again for Plumbeous Rail but were unsuccessful. We returned to the hotel at and met up with Roy who had enjoyed his walk in the sunshine but had also found it very windy. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 10

12 09 December Today we concentrated on the area of Grey Lake. Unfortunately, the wind was even stronger strong than it had been the last two days. Early on in our journey to the lake, we enjoyed the wonderful sight of five or six Andean Condors flying overhead. We made another scenic stop where we had Red-gartered Coot and Coscoroba Swan. We could see waves on all the lakes as we drove past today. Close to Grey Lake, we made a banos stop at an Information Centre and set out to cross the river over a rather wibbly-wobbly bridge that swung to and fro in the high winds. With a little help all those that wanted to crossed the bridge and walked to the beach of Lake Grey through wonderful old nothofagus forest. The trees were riddled by the nesting holes and feeding scars of Magellanic Woodpeckers. Sadly, we were unable to find any of the species. However, there was compensation in some excellent views of Austral Parakeets and some interesting orchids. We also saw good numbers of Thorn-tailed Rayaditos. Down on the lake s extensive shore, we realised how fierce the wind was whipping down from the glacier that feeds into the lake. Evidence of the glacier was provided by the beautiful sculptured blue icebergs languishing just offshore. Returning across the bridge we set off to walk to the Grey Hotel and we had great views of more Thorn-tailed Rayaditos while a group of Austral Parakeet feeding on the ground entranced us all. Eventually we had to turn back as the wind was strong and with gusts of 110km/hour we were unable to get around the headland to the hotel. So, we returned to the bus and drove there instead. A walk in the grounds produced nothing new and we walked down to the shore for more views of the glacier and then retreated from the wind for a warming coffer in the hotel. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 11

13 On our journey back we made a few stops and found Dark-winged Cinclodes, Great Grebe, Yellowbilled Pintail, Cinereous Harrier, Black-necked Swan and Lesser Rhea. A male American Kestrel was hunting by the roadside and gave amazing views as it hovered right next to the vehicle. Its head stayed still in the strong wind as it scanned for prey. We had our final dinner with Enrique and Jose at our hotel with wine provided by Ornitholidays. We completed the checklist and retired to bed, to finish packing and be ready for an early start the next day. 10 December We had an early breakfast at as we had a long way to travel to Punta Arenas in order to catch our flight to Santiago. The lakes in the park held the usual Chilean Flamingos, Silvery Grebes and Crested Ducks. We didn t make many stops on the journey but as we left the park we had great views of an Andean Condor flying across the road. Soon the Torres del Paine massif receded into the distance and we returned to the typical distinctly flat and windswept Patagonian landscape. As we reached the sea we had views of Black-necked Swans, Chiloe Wigeon and South American Terns. A shopping and coffee stop provided some retail therapy at Punta Natales, before we continued on our way, where we saw Kelp Gull, Buff-necked Ibis and Cinerous Harrier. As we sped along we were able to see for the last time birds with which we had become familiar during the tour Upland Goose, Coscoroba and Blacknecked Swans, Chimango and Crested Caracaras and Austal Negrito. We made good time to the airport which is north of Punta Arenas. We said our goodbyes to Enrique and Carlos who had looked after us so well. Our flight left at and three hours later we arrived into Santiago. We collected our luggage and made the return journey to the hotel we had started our trip nearly two weeks earlier. We checked into our rooms and met up for our final supper. 11 December It was still hot in Santiago and we awoke to a lovely sunny morning. We breakfasted at and met up with Eduardo, who was going to give us a guided tour of Santiago before we continued to the airport. We visited the old town first and Eduardo told us about the history of Santiago and the time under Spanish rule and independence in We stopped for an hour s walk through the streets to the Plaza de Armas where we visited Metropolitan Cathedral and then onto La Moneda Palace which is the is the seat of the President of the Republic of Chile. We arrived at just in time to see the spectacular changing of the guard, with marching bands and mounted guards in wonderful uniforms. We reached the airport in good time, checked in for our return flight and had lunch. It wasn t long till we set off for Paris on our 14 and a half hour flight. 12 December The flight arrived on time and our onward flight from Paris to Heathrow was also on schedule. Farewells were said at the baggage claim and sadly the party disbanded. Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 12

14 Acknowledgements Special thanks go to Enrique for his leadership and organisation, for his considerable knowledge of Chile s natural history and for the amusement he provided throughout the tour. It was my pleasure to be working alongside him and to be travelling with such a pleasant group. Thanks to you all for your good company, humour and spotting. My hope is that we might have the chance to meet up again on some future Ornitholidays tour. Many thanks also to Jose for his safe driving and to Sebastian and Anne-Marie for guiding during the early part of the tour. Also thanks to Iain and Sandy for allowing me to use some of their photographs in this report. Nigel Jones Ornitholidays 29 Straight Mile Romsey Hampshire SO51 9BB info@ornitholidays.co.uk February 2017 Itinerary and Weather 28 November Depart London for Santiago via Paris 29 November Arrival in Santiago, pm Farellones, overnight Santiago Fine and sunny 32 C 30 November Flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas, drive north along the coast, overnight Punta Arenas Fine and sunny 14 C 01 December Tres Puntes and the south to Parrillar and San Juan, overnight Punta Arenas Fine and sunny with showers later in afternoon14 C 02 December Punta Arenas ferry to Porvenir, Tierra del Fuego, pm Laguna Verde and Cordon Baquerdano, overnight Porvenir Mainly fine and sunny with a few showers 14 C 03 December Tierra del Fuego - King Penguin colony at Useless Bay and Cordon Baquerdano, overnight Porvenir Rain at first clearing in afternoon 12 C 04 December Tierra del Fuego - Porvenir to Punta Delgado via ferry and then northern route to Puerto Natales for overnight Mainly fine 14 C 05 December Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park, overnight Torres del Paine National Park Fine 16 C 06 December Torres del Paine National Park Puerta Ria, overnight Torres del Paine National Park Fine but windy 19 C 07 December Torres del Paine National Park Pampa Handu loop and then to Sierra Baguales, overnight Torres del Paine National Park Fine 19 C Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 13

15 08 December Torres del Paine National Park - Pampa Handu loop, Puerta Ria, Pohoe, overnight Torres del Paine National Park Fine but windy 10 C 09 December Torres del Paine National Park Gray Lake, overnight Torres del Paine National Park Fine but very windy (70mph) 15 C 10 December Torres del Paine National Park to Punta Areas to Santiago, Overnight Santiago Fine but windy 16 C 11 December City tour and flight from Santiago to Paris Hot and sunny 32 C 12 December Arrival in Paris and onward to London Flightless Steamer-Ducks Striped Woodpecker Two-banded Plover Blackish Oystercatcher Andean Condors Patagonian Sierra-Finch Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 14

16 CHECKLIST OF BIRDS SEEN DURING THE TOUR No of days recorded Abundance Scale 1 (2h) means seen on 1 1 = 1-4 day and heard on 2 2 = 5-9 other days 3 = = > 100 Species No of days recorded Locations Abundance Scale Scientific Name Lesser Rhea 6 4 Rhea pennata White-tufted Grebe 6 3 Rollandia rolland Great Grebe 5 3 Podiceps major Silvery Grebe 4 3 Podiceps occipitalis Black-browed Albatross 3 4 Diomedea melanophrys Grey-headed Albatross 1 1 Diomedea chrysostoma Antarctic Giant Petrel 5 3 Macronectes giganteus White-chinned Petrel 1 3 Procellaria aequinoctialis Sooty Shearwater 1 2 Puffinus griseus Wilson s Storm-Petrel 1 2 Oceanites oceanicus Magellanic Diving-Petrel 2 3 Pelecanoides magellani King Penguin 1 3 Aptenodytes patagonica Magellanic Penguin 3 2 Spheniscus magellanicus Neotropic Cormorant 5 1 Phalacrocorax brasilianus King Cormorant 1 1 Phalacrocorax albiventer Rock Cormorant 5 2 Phalacrocorax magellanicus Imperial Cormorant 3 4 Phalacrocorax atriceps Black-crowned Night-Heron 4 1 Nycticorax nycticorax Black-faced Ibis 10 3 Theristicus melanopis Chilean Flamingo 6 3 Phoenicopterus chilensis Black-necked Swan 7 3 Cygnus melanocorypha Coscoroba Swan 8 4 Coscoroba coscoroba Upland Goose 10 4 Chloephaga picta Ashy-headed Goose 2 3 Chloephaga poliocephala Ruddy-headed Goose 3 3 Chloephaga rubidiceps Kelp Goose 2 1 Chloephaga hybrida Flightless Steamerduck 3 3 Tachyeres pteneres Flying Steamerduck 6 3 Tachyeres patachonicus Torrent Duck 1 1 Merganetta armata Chiloe Wigeon 9 3 Anas sibilatrix Speckled Teal 6 3 Anas flavirostris Spectacled Duck 4 1 Anas specularis Crested Duck 8 4 Anas specularioides Yellow-billed Pintail 10 4 Anas georgica Silver Teal 1 1 Anas versicolor Red Shoveler 2 3 Anas platalea Lake Duck 3 2 Oxyura vittata Andean Condor 8 3 Vultur gryphus Cinereous Harrier 4 1 Circus cinereus Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle 5 1 Geranoaetus melanoleucus Variable Hawk 2 2 Buteo polyosoma Southern Crested Caracara 10 3 Caracara plancus Chimango Caracara 11 3 Milvago chimango American Kestrel 5 1 Falco sparverius California Quail - 1h 1 Callipepla californica Austral Rail 1 1h 1 Rallus antarcticus Plumbeous Rail 1 1 Pardirallus sanguinolentus White-winged Coot 1 3 Fulica leucoptera Red-gartered Coot 7 3 Fulica armillata Magellanic Oystercatcher 9 3 Haematopus leucopodus Blackish Oystercatcher 1 1 Haematopus ater Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 15

17 American Oystercatcher 1 1 Haematopus palliatus Southern Lapwing 11 3 Vanellus chilensis Two-banded Plover 4 3 Charadrius falklandicus Rufous-chested Dotterel 2 1 Charadrius modestus Tawny-throated Dotterel 1 1 Oreopholus ruficollis Magellanic Plover 1 1 Pluvianellus socialis South American Snipe 3 3 Gallinago paraguaiae Lesser Yellowlegs 1 1 Tringa flavipes White-rumped Sandpiper 5 3 Calidris fuscicollis Baird's Sandpiper 5 4 Calidris bairdii Gray-breasted Seedsnipe 1 1 Thinocorus orbignyianus Least Seedsnipe 2 2 Thinocorus rumicivorus Chilean Skua 5 3 Stercorarius chilensis Brown Skua 1 1 Stercorarius antarcticus Dolphin Gull 4 3 Leucophaeus scoresbii Franklin s Gull 1 1 Leucophaeus pipixcan Kelp Gull 6 4 Larus dominicanus Brown-hooded Gull 5 3 Chroicocephalus maculipennis South American Tern 6 4 Sterna hirundinacea Rock Dove 6 2 Columba livia Eared Dove 8 3 Zenaida auriculata Picui Ground-Dove 1 3 Columbina picui Black-winged Ground-Dove 1 1 Metriopelia melanoptera Austral Parakeet 4 3 Enicognathus ferrugineus Great Horned Owl 2 1 Bubo magellanicus Austral Pygmy-Owl 2 1 Glaucidium nanum Striped Woodpecker 2 1 Picoides lignarius Chilean Flicker 2 2 Colaptes pitius Magellanic Woodpecker 1 1 Campephilus magellanicus Common Miner 4 1 Geositta cunicularia Rufous-banded Miner 1 3 Geositta rufipennis Short-billed Miner 3 2 Geositta antarctica Scale-throated Earthcreeper 5 2 Upucerthia dumetaria Band-tailed Earthcreeper 1 1 Eremobius phoenicurus Dark-bellied Cinclodes 5 1 Cinclodes patagonicus Bar-winged Cinclodes 8 2 Cinclodes fuscus Grey-flanked Cinclodes 1 1 Cinclodes oustaleti Thorn-tailed Rayadito 3 3 Aphrastura spinicauda Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail 2 1 Leptasthenura aegithaloides Wren-like Rushbird - 2h 1 Phleocryptes melanops Cordilleran Canastero 1 1 Asthenes modesta Austral Canastero 1 1 Asthenes anthoides Dusky-tailed Canastero 1 1 Asthenes humicola White-throated Treerunner 1 1 Pygarrhichas albogularis Moustached Turca (E) - 1h 1 Pteroptochos megapodius White-crested Elaenia 4 3 Elaenia albiceps Rufous-tailed Plantcutter 5 2 Phytotoma rara Tufted Tit-Tyrant 3 2 Anairetes parulus Chocolate-vented Tyrant 1 3 Neoxolmis rufiventris Fire-eyed Diucon 3 1 Xolmis pyrope Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant 1 2 Muscisaxicola capistrata White-browed Ground-Tyrant 1 3 Muscisaxicola albilora Austral Negrito 10 4 Lessonia rufa Chilean Swallow 8 3 Tachycineta meyeni Blue-and-white Swallow 10 2 Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Barn Swallow 1 1 Hirundo rustica Correndera Pipit 5 2 Anthus correndera House Wren 9 2 Troglodytes aedon Grass Wren 3 1 Cistothorus platensis Chilean Mockingbird (E) 1 2 Mimus thenca Patagonian Mockingbird 2 2 Mimus patagonicus Austral Thrush 11 3 Turdus falcklandii Chiguanco Thrush 1 1 Turdus chiguanco Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 16

18 House Sparrow ( I ) 9 3 Passer domesticus Black-chinned Siskin 9 3 Carduelis barbata Yellow-rumped Siskin 1 3 Carduelis uropygialis Greater Yellow-Finch 2 3 Sicalis auriventris Patagonian Yellow-Finch 2 1 Sicalis lebruni Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch 11 1 Phrygilus gayi Patagonian Sierra-Finch 3 2 Phrygilus patagonicus Mourning Sierra-Finch 3 2 Phrygilus fruticeti Plumbeous Sierra-Finch 1 1 Phrygilus unicolor Black-throated Finch 2 3 Melanodera melanodera Yellow-bridled Finch 1 3 Melanodera xanthogramma Rufous-collared Sparrow 11 4 Zonotrichia capensis Yellow-winged Blackbird 2 1 Agelaius thilius Long-tailed Meadowlark 10 3 Sturnella loyca Shiny Cowbird 1 1 Molothrus bonariensis Austral Blackbird 8 3 Curaeus curaeus E =endemic and I = introduced MAMMALS Big Hairy Armadillo 2 1 Chaetophractus villosus Humbold`s Hog-nosed Skunk 2 1 Conepatus humboldtii Culpeo Fox 2 1 Lycalopex culpaeus Grey Fox 8 3 Lycalopex griseus Coypu 1 1 Myocastor coypus Puma 1 1 Puma concolor Guanaco 8 4 Lama guanicoe Brown Hare 9 3 Lepus europaeus European Rabbit 3 1 Oryctolagus cuniculus Commerson`s Dolphin 1 1 Cephalorhynchus commersonii Peale`s Dolphin 3 3 Lagenorhynchus australis South American Fur Seal 1 2 Arctocephalus australis This list represents those birds and other animals as seen by party members of this tour. Ornitholidays Front cover: Torres del Paine Massif All Photographs I Elliot, S Jones and N Jones Ornitholidays Tour to Chile 28 November 12 December 2016 Page 17