Kyrgyzstan 26 June 16 1 August 16

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1 For information contact me at Check my observations at Introduction Kyrgyzstan 26 June 16 1 August 16 From end of June until 1 of August I travelled with my girlfriend to Kyrgyzstan. Our goal was to explore the country. So birdwatching was not the main target, although we would spent most time in natural settings. Whenever I said that we were going to Kyrgyzstan, people asked us where it is situated. So I always had to say: South of Kazakhstan, next to China. Situated in Central-Asia this would be our furthest destination so far, and the first time I went birding outside the Western Palaearctic (WP). Although Kyrgyzstan is situated outside WP, most of the avifauna is similar to what we know in Europe. But you can also find some eastern specialities, mostly birds of mountain landscapes. The fact that you can find a lot of mountain species is quite logical since about 90% of the country lays above 1500m with an average elevation of 2750m and the highest point being higher than 7400m. Most of the mountain ranges in Kyrgyzstan belong to the Tien Shan range, with a part in the south belonging to the Pamirs. Lowland area s can be found around the capital Bishkek and around Jalal-Abad and Osh, which lay at the border of the Fergana Valley. Beside the mountainous character of Kyrgyzstan, its accessibility also influenced our choice. At least for Belgians, no visa is needed for a visit less than 90 days and airplane tickets to Bishkek are quite cheap (350 euro round trip per person with Aeroflot). But Kyrgyzstan is also quite easy to travel, it is not as big as Kazakhstan or other countries in Central and Northern Asia and the public transport system works well. The main modes of public transport are Marshrutka s (mini busses) and (shared) taxi s. The rule of the taxi is: everyone is a taxi! Public transport is rather cheap, i.e. 10 som for Marshrutka in Bishkek, 1000 som for shared taxi from Bishkek to Osh. Hitchhiking doesn t work that well since it is common to pay some money for a ride. But still you can ask if it s for free and often people will agree with it (depending where you are). Used literature, websites and maps Books Since 2012, Helm Field Guides came with a new handbook: Birds of Central Asia (Ayé, Schweizer and Roth). This was the only birdguide used during the trip. For the preparation of the trip I used the Bradt s travel guide of Kyrgyzstan and the Lonely Planet guide of Central-Asia. These where useful for practical information such as transport prices, practical addresses for accommodation, map shops and hiking stores.

2 Websites (Dutch site with observations which often have accurate coordinates) (site with all the Marshrutka routes in Bishkek city) (especially the report of Andy Reeves was used for detailed information on locations) Several sites about travelling in Kyrgyzstan for practical information. Maps Kyrgyzstan, 1: road map by Gizi map (shows much details) Tien shan trekking map form TerraQuest with overview map and detailed maps (1:10 000) of Ala-Archa, Karakol region, Peak Lenin and Inylchek. Some trekking maps and regional maps can also be bought in Geoid (Kievskaya 117, Bishkek) but this shop is rather hard to find (N , E ). Itinerary Bishkek Ala-Archa NP Bishkek Arslanbob Osh Sary Moghul and Peak Lenin base camp Bishkek Kochkor Song Kul Along the south side of Issyk Kul to Karakol Jeti-Oguz and Karakol Valley Cholpon-Ata Tokmok Burana tower Massanchi (Kazakhstan) Tokmok Alamedin Valley Bishkek Day reports 26/06 We arrived at Manas International Airport around 15h and were picked up by the aunt of a friend. First lifer was Common Myna. It is also possible to take a Marshrutka form the airport (n 380, 40som pp).on the way from the airport European Roller was seen and a possible Long-tailed Shrike. At and around the house we saw Laughing Dove, Common Myna s, Great Tit, House Sparrow and my first Long-tailed Shrike. Later on we went to Bishkek centre, where Common Myna was abundant and Alpine and Common Swifts were easily seen. 27/06 Still in Bishkek for some practical things like buying food, a map (which we eventually didn t use) an a gas canister (Red Fox hiking shop). Myna s were common and a Red-rumped Swallow and Magpie was seen. Back at our host home we walked around in the evening and saw two more Long-tailed Shrikes, Masked Wagtails, Goldfinch, Blackbird, Tree sparrows and four Black-headed Night Herons flying distantly. 28/06 (See map end of report) Today we left Bishkek towards Ala-Archa NP. First we took a Marshrutka towards Osh Bazaar (n 192) where we took another to Kashka-Suu (n 265, 25som pp). Along the road, Lesser Grey Shrike and European Roller were seen. Around Kashka-Suu groups of Rosy Starling, Black Kite and Mistle Thrush

3 were seen. From there we hitched towards the gate and paid an entrance fee (80som pp),but I m not sure if it s really needed... Around the entrance to the park more Black Kites and Rollers were around. Also Hobby and Sparrowhawk were noted, as well as some Turtle dove spec. ( most likely Oriental). Further in the pines two Lesser Whitethroats were seen. We hitched further and reached the end of the road at the Hotel. On the slopes at the left Common Rosefinches and Common Whitethroat were singing and Hume s warbler. I also found a female Bluecapped Redstart. A Couple of Common Kestrels were about and a Vulture fly high up, but this was left unidentified as Griffon/Himalayan. Further in the spruce forest Hume s Warbler was common. We walked to the river along the paved road and saw a Blue Whistling Thrush flying by over the river. On the walk back to the crossroad 2 White-winged Grosbeaks flew by and landed. We got up the trail towards the Ak-Sai glacier. On the way we noted Rufous-naped Tits, Common Rosefinches and Greenish warblers in the forest. As soon as the forest became more open I saw a Blackthroated Accentor which was singing and later on a female Red-mantled Rosefinch. We walked up until we came to a flatter meadow (The Lush meadow from Reeve, 2013) Here we camped and I went birding on the flanks, which proved to be a good choice! Four Red-mantled Rosefinches, a male Whitetailed Rubythroat and a Sulphur-bellied Warbler were seen. 29/06 Ala-Archa is a good site to see White-browed Tit Warbler, a species I really wanted to see. Since I didn t manage so far I got up at 5h to bird on the flanks between the Juniper bushes (same site as noted in Reeve 2013). It started with a Rock Bunting and some Redmantled Rosefinches. Later I heard a White-browed Tit Warbler and saw it very shortly. It took me another hour before I saw a couple on the top of the bushes. Other species seen were Whitetailed Rubythroat, Sulphur-bellied warbler, Scarlet Rosefinches and a Blue-capped Warbler. On the way towards the tent I found a

4 Partridge sp. totally relying on its camouflage. I m more convinced that it is Grey Partridge, but since I don t have experience with Daurian, I m leaving this one unidentified. On the way up to the glacier some more Red-mantled Rosefinches and three Rubythroats were seen (just after the crossing of the river). A bit after this point a male Eversmann s Redstart was seen. After the wooded area next to the waterfall some Common Swifts were flying around and here I briefly saw a Himalayan Snowcock flying over. We went almost to the glacier and returned towards the waterfall were a Blue-capped Redstart was seen. 30/06 Today we went back to Bishkek. On the way towards the hotel we saw similar species as before with the addition of a Golden Eagle and Tree pipits. Back at the road we walked a bit along the river to search for Brown Dipper, but only Grey Wagtails and an Woodpigeon were seen. We hitched back and were brought to Manas Ordo a rather strange looking park. Here two Indian Orioles were seen and on the way out a Spotted Woodpecker flew by, according to the maps this should be White-winged. 01/07 Today would be a day of sitting in cars since the plan was to take a shared taxi towards Arslanbob. We went to the main bus station in Bishkek and soon a driver found us, a car with a passenger came some 10 minutes later and after picking up a tourist who was just walking around Osh Bazaar we were on the way towards Bazar-Korgon (1000 som pp.). The ride was long but the scenery was good with a mountain pass of about 3500m and a high valley filled with yurts in a nice mountain landscape, which later turned to a more arid environment. In the Chuy Valley close to Bishkek we saw Long-tailed Shrike and Hoopoe. On the pass two Ravens were about and in the higher valley we saw Black-backed Citrine Wagtails, Rooks, Northern Wheatear and a Vulture sp. We lunched in a road side restaurant where I noted two Himalayan Vultures. Later on, in the drier areas around Toktogul reservoir we stopped to let the motor cool down and I saw my only two Red-headed Buntings in Kyrgyzstan. Later on an Egyptian Vulture flew by. After 11h we arrived at the turn to Arslanbob, where we left the taxi and took a Marshrutka (60som pp). We slept in Homestay 14 of the CBT network in Arslanbob. 02/07 (see map end of report) Arslanbob is the centre of the walnut forests in Kyrgyzstan and is a place of serenity. In the morning we walked towards the CBT-panorama point. On the way I found Spotted Flycatchers in the village and after crossing the river a family of Azure Tits. These showed yellow breasts but the yellow was not sharply delined, but later on more clear examples of flavipectus were seen. Near to the panorama a Rufousnaped Tit was singing and at the panorama I heard some buntings singing, I located them quickly and indeed it were two White-capped Buntings.

5 Later also a Rock Bunting was seen. In the Walnut forest I found a White-winged Woodpecker and four Hawfinches. On the way back to the village two more White-capped Buntings in the open areas, Egyptian Vulture, Common Kestrel and a Short-toad Snake Eagle were seen. In the evening we went to the little waterfall (which is ruined by tourism) and I saw two Blue-whistling Thrushes (along the river in the village and next to the waterfall). 03/07 We walked in the direction of the big waterfall because a friend who was here 2 years ago met birders who saw Little Forktail there. In the end we didn t went to the waterfall but decided to go to the forest on the north-west side of the village. Here I found two White-capped buntings, ten Griffon Vultures above a ridge and 2 Lesser Whitethroats (in the lower areas). We ate dinner next to the river and walked up to the panorama where 2 Oriental Turtle Doves were singing. Jody wanted to ask me whether the thing she saw on a rock was a bird, when it flew up and turned out to be a European Nightjar. Back in the village two Common Nightingales were singing in the bushes. 04/07 Today was our last day in Arslanbob and it was raining a bit, we walked towards the panorama but went back due to the rain. On the way back I saw a perched Oriental Turtle Dove and in the village two more and a Collared Dove. We took the Marshrutka to Bazar-Korgon. On the way Rollers and Common Beeeaters where seen. We transferred towards Jalal-Abad where we took the bus towards Osh. In Osh we met with our couchsurfing host who showed us the city. Some Alpine Swifts, Common Swifts and Common Mynas were seen, as well as a bokharensis Great Tit. 05/07 We took a shared taxi towards Sary Tash (500som pp). We arrived in a windy weather with some light rain. Along the road Black-backed Citrine Wagtails were seen and further on a pair of Common Rosefinches. We hitched to Kashka-Suu where we were invited by a family to eat and sleep in their house. 06/07 (see map end of report) The family with who we stayed arranged transport for us to the Peak Lenin Basecamp. After a bumpy ride with lots of Marmots and Horned larks we arrived at the basecamp. It is said that you need a

6 permission for this place, but we didn t notice anything of this. On arriving two Güldenstädt s Redstarts were flushed just before the crossing of the river. After paying our drivers we went to the little hills next to the river canyon. White-winged Snowfinch was common and on the gravel plains I noted a Lesser Sand Plover. We decided to leave our bags and walk around quietly because we weren t fully acclimatised to the height. On walking up along the river Altai Accentor (5), Water pipits (10+), Brandt s Mountain Finch (7) and Plain Mountain Finch (5) were seen foraging between the grass in this order. On the slopes of the canyon a family of 3 Güldenstädt s redstarts were about. When we were walking back it felt like raining so we decided to pitch the tent. Unfortunately I soon found out that I lost the tent pegs and the tube to fit over my broken tent pole. So the tent was completely useless. Luckily we could use a tent in the basecamp for free! 07/07 It proved to be a very good choice to go and sleep in a tent at the basecamp, because this morning we woke up in a landscape covered with a ten cm deep snow layer! The view we had yesterday of the snow capped peaks of the Pamirs was spectacular but this landscape, dressed in a white coat, was even more impressive! It seemed that some birds descended to the camp because Brandt s Mountain Finches were seen next to the tents.

7 We asked around if someone had to go to the valley and luckily that was the case. We were dropped off again at Kashka-Suu from where we hitched. On the way down two possible Eurasian Black vultures flew by and a young Golden Eagle. We went to Bash-Bulak, close to Osh were we couchsurfed. Around the house a lot of Rosy Starlings were flying around and a Indian Oriole in the garden. Also seen in the neighbourhood was the only Crested Lark of the trip and an Egyptian Vulture. 08/07 Today we travelled from Osh to Bishkek. Since we were in need of camping gear and roads towards Naryn/ Kochkor have, apparently, no regular public transport, we had to go by Bishkek. We Left Osh rather late (around noon) so arrived in the middle of the night. Luckily we managed to take a taxi to our couchsurfing hosts. In their garden I heard a Eurasian Scops Owl. 09/07 After visiting the Red Fox outdoor shop we went the Western Bus station and got on a Marshrutka towards Kochkor. On the way I saw Black-crowned Night Heron, Great Cormorant, Black-headed Gull and Lapwing from the bus. Arrived in Kochkor we started to search someone to arrange a horse riding trip to lake Song-Kul. This was arranged rather easily and we could pitch our tent in her garden. In the evening a large group of Rooks flew by. 10/07 In the morning we were brought to the village of Kyzart, from which the horsetrek would start. Around the village Corn Bunting was singing and a Corn Crake. We left towards the hills and in the drier parts some Tawny Pipits were about and I heard a Bunting singing. It sounded like Pine, but the horse wouldn t stand still, so I didn t manage to have a look. In general, birding from a horse is rather difficult. The path took us to a higher valley were we camped next to the yurt camp. Along the road several Blackbacked Citrine Wagtails, lots of Common Starling, two Eurasian Crimson-winged Finches and a Longlegged Buzzard were seen. Around the camp two Little Owls were seen as well as three Rock Sparrows, a male Common Rock Thrush, 5 Eurasian Crimson-winged Finches, Lammergeier, Tree Pipit, Quails and Isabelline Wheatears.

8 11/07 We rode towards the mountain pass and went down to a yurt camp close to the lake. On the way up White-winged Snowfinches were seen and on the pass itself a Griffon Vulture and a Hobby flew by. At the yurt camp there were only few birds: some Black-headed Gulls. After midday we went to the lake by horse, closer to the lake Horned Larks and Black-headed Citrine Wagtails were seen. One of my targets here was Greater Black-headed Gull and when we arrived a gull flew by, but it turned out to be Caspian Gull. After taking a swim in the lake we returned and said goodbye to the guide. We walked towards the lake and camped along the shore. Next to a river mouth I noted around five Redshanks and an equal number of Common Terns. 12/07 I woke up early to search for gulls but this only resulted in more Caspian Gulls (about 15). We decided to walk towards a bar in the south side of the lake which is fenced with a sign of nature reserve. On the bar more Common Terns and Black-headed Gulls were present. Also on of the targets of this site was seen: Lesser Sand Plover, we saw 4 birds of which two were summer plumage males. On the lagoon some Great Crested Grebes, Rudy Shelducks were present. Since we didn t arrange transport towards Kochkor we started walking towards the road. On the way four Black- one Griffon Vulture and one Lammergeier flew by. We walked quite a bit until cars started passing by, but soon after we were in a car towards Kochkor. They charged quite a lot for the distance but it was still cheaper than the taxi s we were offered at the start of the trip. The driver also led us pitch our tent in his garden. Here a Common Quail and Cuckoo were singing. The House Sparrows in his garden were possibly indicus, which is regarded as a full species by Ayé et al. (2012). 13/07 Today we were making for the Issyk Kul lake to travel along the south side towards Karakol. We managed to get a shared taxi towards the turn just before Balykchy. After this we were picked up and lead to a house to have tea and lunch (tea never comes alone). They dropped us close to Otuk at the lake side. This is part of the Nature reserve but is also partially used as a beach. We walked to a more natural part with more wetland like vegetation and some reed beds. This new habitat resulted in some new species for the trip list like: Cetti s Warbler and Barred warbler(2). Also seen were Azure Tits, Tree Sparrows, Oriental Turtle Dove, Common Starlings, Common Tern and Lapwing.

9 14/07 We left the lake side and walked towards the main road. On the way Azure Tits were seen in the marshy area. Close to the road, were more Poplars were growing a Indian Oriole was singing and five Hoopoe s were flying around. Next to the road I also saw 3 White-winged Woodpeckers. When the row of Poplars stopped we saw a little road on the left of the road, which we took. Behind the apple trees next to the road, the land had opened again and we walked into a field of low reed vegetation. Here a lot of Black-headed Citrine Wagtails were present. Suddenly I flushed a male Pheasant from a distance, but could not relocate it. While walking between the vegetation I flushed a Richard s Pipit which started a song flight. Other things seen here were Marsh Harrier, Black Kite and Corn Bunting. We hitched to just before Bokonbaev and turned towards the village Tuura-Suu. This was a more agricultural landscape so again some Corn Buntings, Common Rosefinch, Hoopoe and Quails were seen and also the first Turkestan Shrike of the trip. During evening it started to rain so we pitched our tent and went to sleep. 15/07 Morning was sunny again and around our camping spot Eurasian Crimson-winged Finch, Rock Bunting, Common Whitethroat, Greenfinch, Oriental Turtle Dove, Common Sandpiper and Grey Wagtails were seen. We walked further along the road and steep slopes turned up on the left side. Here I noted an Eastern Black Redstart, Rock Sparrow, Chukars and a Common Rock Thrush. At a bridge across the river on the left some House Martins, Sand Martins and Barn Swallows were hunting. After this we returned to the lake and hitched towards Fairy-tale Canyon (Skazka Canyon). At the entrance of the road towards the canyon some Pied Wheatears and Turkestan Shrikes were seen. On the way to the canyon two Grey-necked Buntings were singing. We pitched our tent on a higher part to be safe from floods by the rain, because all the roads showed traces of this. 16/07 Getting up early to walk around before too much tourists would arrive, this partially failed since some were already about, flying a drone. The sky was full of Common Swifts and next to a cliff two Crag Martins were flying. Suddenly I heard a birdcall which reminded me of Trumpeter finches so I was alarmed because this is a site for Mongolian Finch. They landed behind the ridge so I climbed up. Sadly nothing to be found except some more Grey-necked Buntings. At the parking area there is a small water source and Red-fronted Serin s came to drink here. Suddenly I heard the trumpeter finch like call again and this time I managed to see the light rump, this together with the call and jizz made me confident that it were indeed Mongolian Finches. We returned to the road and hitched towards Barskoon to buy food. After this we hitched further and in the fields on both sides of the road Quails and a Corn Crake were singing. We got picked up by a family and stayed at their house in Jengis. By nightfall a Common Nightingale started to sing and a Asio Owl flew by, but there was too little light to see any details.

10 17/07 We hitched towards Karakol to meet with our Couchsurfing host. After walking around town we got to a field next to the airport were Common Grasshopper Warbler was singing and a Pheasant was calling. 18/07 (see map end of report) Today was the start of a 5 day hiking trip into the mountains south of Karakol. The primary goal on this trip for me was Ibisbill. We started off at the Djety-Oguz resort and the plan was to walk up the valley and cross the mountain pass towards the Karakol Valley. At the start Rock Bunting and Red-fronted Serin were common. This place should also be good for Red-Mantled Rosefinch, but since I had seen this species in Ala-Archa I didn t search too much for it. The first part was rather dull on the birding part with only notable species being a Songar Tit and Spotted Nutcracker. When we got close to the point where the valley splits we saw White-throated Dipper on the smaller streams. At the splitting point we decided to camp and eat. While cooking I saw a brown flash flying over the river. I jumped up and ran after it, as I suspected it was indeed a Brown Dipper. 19/07 Today we walked until the path left the river valley, in this part we would go through the habitat of Ibisbill. When we woke up the Brown Dipper was still around, we followed the road through the forest until the forest stopped. On the way a male Blue-capped Redstart, Common Buzzard and Goldcrests were seen. After the forest, the valley became open with grassy slopes and Juniper thickets. After walking a bit the river flowed through a flatter area with some shingle beds. As soon as I saw this place I knew this was where it had to happen. So I walked along the river scanning the shore and soon I located an Ibisbill! I didn t try to approach it and took a distant record shot. After a well deserved lunch we walked on and I birded a bit between the Juniper bushes. This proved a good spot with 10+ Plain Mountain Finches, 2 White-winged Grosbeaks, Eversmann s Redstart, Lammergeier and 2 possible Himalayan Vultures. After crossing the river we pitched our tent at the basecamp and I walked up a bit. In the bushes on the slopes I found Black-throated accentor, White-tailed Rubythroat, Red-mantled Rosefinch, a Merlin and Eversmann s Redstart. 20/07 In the morning we packed our stuff and started the climb towards the pass. On the way through the bushes I saw the similar species as yesterday and 2 White-winged Grosbeaks. Getting higher and higher

11 we reached a zone which was only sparsely vegetated. Here we saw 2 Güldenstädt Redstarts, 5 Altai Accentors, 2 Alpine Accentors and 3 Plain Mountain Finches. After enjoying the view when we reached the pass, we started walking down towards the valley. Here we saw Red-Billed Chough along the river and the typical species of the Juniper shrubs. We camped along the river and were just on time before it started hailing. 21/07 We were planning to try to reach lake Ala-Kol. So we headed towards the lower valley. On the way some Red-fronted Serin s and Plain Mountain Finches ware seen and suddenly we flushed 5 Pigeons, these turned out to be Hill Pigeons a species I didn t suspected at this altitude. After a steep decent through the forest we reached the valley were we had lunch and saw some Coal Tits and a male Three-toed Woodpecker. We crossed the river and walked up the valley leading to Ala-Kul. Both locals and 2 hikers told us the path was not that way and pointed towards a turn which led up a grassy slope. Soon the path was lost and we faced a rather steep hill to climb. Eventually we got up and luckily it became less steep. Their along some rocks I found a Brown Accentor jumping between the stones and after pitching up our tent an adult Himalayan Vulture flew by. 22/07 I woke up early and decided to take a morning stroll to search some birds. I heard some Himalayan Snowcocks and thought to see them disappearing behind a hill. So I climbed up but there was no sign of them. But 5 White-winged Grosbeaks, Plain Mountain Finches and an Eversmann s Redstart were seen. We walked further along the river valley until we came to a cirque. Here we flushed a Green Sandpiper. When we reached the highest parts of the valley, a cackling noise was heard, I realised there must be some Himalayan Snowcocks on the slopes. After scanning I managed to find 5 birds. Suddenly they flew of and it turned out to be a group of 7. I checked with the GPS on my phone and indeed the lake should be on the other side of the cirque, as we were already doubting that we took the wrong way, we were now quite sure. But we found a part of the slope which looked manageable, so we climbed up. On the way I flushed 2 more Himalayan Snowcocks, which gave splendid views, considering they were Snowcocks. Also some Brandt s and Plain Mountain Finches were around. When I reached the top I could indeed see the lake, but also that there was no way down. So we rested and lunched and went down again right until the Karakol Valley. The way down didn t bring anything not seen on the way up and when we reached the valley it was pouring rain so we quickly set up our tent under the trees.

12 23/07 In the morning the sky was clear and sun was shining so we hung all our wet clothes and material in the sun to let it dry. A park ranger came by and we had to pay a toll for the park and for our tent. When everything was dry we started walking down towards Karakol. Some parts of the road were flooded, so we had to go through the forest. On the way not many birds were seen: 2 Blue-capped Redstarts and a Himalayan Vulture. When we crossed the river birds became more abundant with several Common Whitethroats, Common Rosefinches, Azure Tits, Black Kites and a Booted Eagle. 24/07 Today we went further along the lake and stopped at Mikaelovka. Here we visited a wetland site. We hitched towards Mihaelovka and walked from there towards the river and walked along it to the shores. There was a Buckthorn vegetation where I found 2 Sykes Warblers. After this there were pastures and wetlands. On the pasture, a lot of Rooks and one juvenile Western Jackdaw were present. Wood Pigeons and Oriental Turtle Doves were rather common and from the wetlands came the call of a Water Rail. Here also Mallard and Gadwell, Common Tern, Azure Tit, Barn Swallows, Sand Martin and Grey Heron were seen. On the lake there was a group of Coots and 3 Garganeys flew by. There were also some waders on the shore, mostly Common Sandpiper, but I managed to find a Marsh Sandpiper and Temmincks Stint. We hitched further towards Tüp were we slept next to a river. 25/07 We woke up with good weather and found Common Moorhen and 2 Common Terns. This was a day without much birding. We visited the Petroglyph site just north of Cholpon-Ata. Some Northern Wheatears and a Sparrowhawk were seen. After this we hitched further towards the lake again. We settled just past the village of Örnok where the shore was covered with Buchthorn and some reed. While cooking we saw some curious Cetti s Warblers and at least 5 Oriental Turtle Doves. 26/07 The morning again brought Oriental Turtle Doves and as an addition 2 Paddyfield Warblers and 10 Sand Martins. We took a Marshrutka and after some hitchhiking we were in Tokmok. Here we visited the Bazaar. Our next goal was Burana Tower, so we asked directions. The guy who we asked it to proposed to drive us to Burana. So 10 minutes later we were in his car with his 2 sons on the way to Burana! This historical site holds not too much birds. I thought it might be good for Red-headed Bunting, but this species was not seen. But we saw Long-tailed Shrike, European Bee-eater and Spanish Sparrow. The plan was to camp here, but our driver Mirlan proposed to eat and sleep at his house and so we did!

13 27/07 Since we don t need visa for Kazakzstan for a visit less than 15 days we decided to visit Kazakhstan for a day or 2. Apparently we, as Europeans, cannot cross the border at all the crossing zones. So we had to go to the international border control ( , ). We went to Massanchi and walked a bit around along a riverbed. Nothing special was seen. In the evening, after helping to carry a goat up hill, we got invited to the house of the owner of the goat. We put up our tent in his garden. 28/07 With no real plan we walked along a road further towards nothing. The landscape was a bit different from Kyrgyzstan with more grain fields. On the electric wire I found a Red-headed Bunting. We walked until a big reedbed, were we rested in the shade. On the way Tawny Pipit, Booted Eagle, Short-toad Eagle, Eurasian Roller, Corn Bunting and 3 Green Sandpipers were seen. In the reedbed 2 Great Reed Warblers were calling and the tree who provided shade held a big flock of Rosy Starlings and a young Lesser Grey Shrike. We were planning to eat here, but again we were plucked from the road by a Lada of which I was very surprised it could still ride! After a while we returned to Kyrgyzstan and went back to the house of Mirlan. 29/07 We stayed with Mirlan and his family and went fishing in Chong-Kemin. On the way I saw a male Pied Wheatear. Otherwise not many birds seen. 30/01 This day was also spent with Mirlan, we ate the fish we caught and went to Issyk-Ata. Again nothing notable of birds. 31/07 Today we insisted to go on by ourself into the Alamedin Valley south of Bishkek. We took a bus to Bishkek and a Marshrutka from there to Koy Tash. In a field a saw an Acrocephalus sp. But sadly I could not get a positive ID. It seemed as multiple individuals were calling. Maybe already some migrants. After some hitching we got to the end of the road and started walking. Not much birds around, but I managed to see Blue Whistling Thrush, Greenish Warbler, Hume s Warbler and a Hobby. 01/08 Our last day in Kyrgyzstan. We walked back and on the way I saw a Rufous-naped Tit. On the electric wires there were some Rollers. We got to the airport by Marshrutka and took our flight towards Moskow.

14 Species List Observed species, subspecies is noted when (to me) it was clearly different. For target species, info on abundance and location is given. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Common Myna Acridotheres tristis common near civilisation Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola 2, Issyk Kul, around , Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Eurasian Black Vulture Aegypius monachus 4, Song Kul Chukar Mallard Garganey Gadwall Tawny Pipit Alectoris chukar Anas platyrhynchos Anas querquedula Anas strepera Anthus campestris Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi 1, near Ottük , Water Pipit ssp blakistoni Tree Pipit Common Swift Golden Eagle Grey Heron Little Owl Anthus spinoletta blakistoni Anthus trivialis Apus apus Aquila chrysaetos Ardea cinerea Athene noctua Mongolian Finch Bucanetes mongolicus 2, skazka , Steppe Buzzard Long-legged Buzzard Temminck's Stint Buteo buteo vulpinus Buteo rufinus Calidris temminckii White-tailed Rubythroat Calliope pectoralis Fairly common Ala-Archa from , European Nightjar Common Rosefinch Caprimulgus europaeus Carpodacus erythrinus Karakol: multiple in appropriate habitat and heigt, , Red-mantled Rosefinch Carpodacus rhodochlamys Fairly common Ala-Archa, 4 Karakol (same sites as Rubythroat) Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus 1 Gravel fields Peak Lenin BC , European Greenfinch Black-headed Gull White-throated Dipper ssp leucogaster Chloris chloris Chroicocephalus ridibundus Cinclus cinclus leucogaster 4 Song Kul ,

15 Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii 1 Karakol , Short-toed Eagle Western Marsh Harrier Hawfinch Western Jackdaw Common Wood Pigeon Circaetus gallicus Circus aeruginosus Coccothraustes coccothraustes Coloeus monedula Columba palumbus Hill Pigeon Columba rupestris 5 Karakol , European Roller Common Raven Rook Common Quail Corn Crake Common Cuckoo Azure Tit (including Yellowbreastead) Common House Martin Coracias garrulus Corvus corax Corvus frugilegus Coturnix coturnix Crex crex Cuculus canorus Cyanistes cyanus (ea flavipectus) Delichon urbicum White-winged Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucopterus 1 Arslanbob common Arslanbob (flavipectus) fairly common around Issyk kul in different habitats 3 Ottük , Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps 2 Toktogul , Massanchi (Kaz) Grey-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani Fairly common Skazka canyon , Corn Bunting Rock Bunting Emberiza calandra Emberiza cia White-capped Bunting Emberiza stewarti Fairly common around Arslanbob in appropriate habitat , Horned Lark ssp brandti Merlin Eurasian Hobby Common Kestrel Eurasian Coot Crested Lark Common Moorhen Lammergeier Eurasian Griffon Vulture Eremophila alpestris brandti Falco columbarius Falco subbuteo Falco tinnunculus Fulica atra Galerida cristata Gallinula chloropus Gypaetus barbatus Gyps fulvus common around Song Kul and towards Peak Lenin Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis 2 birds along road Between Bishkek and Toktogul Reservoir Karakol area: multiple sightings , Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

16 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii 1, upper valley Djeti Oguz , Sykes's Warbler Iduna rama 2 Birds Issyk Kul , Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor Turkestan Shrike Lanius phoenicuroides Fairly common around Issyk Kul ea Skazka entry , Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach fairly common around Bishkek , Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans 1, Burana Tower White-browed Tit-Warbler Leptopoecile sophiae 3, Ala-Archa, , Brandt's Mountain Finch Leucosticte brandti fairly common Peak Lenin BC 3, Karakol, , Plain Mountain Finch Leucosticte nemoricola 5, Peak Lenin BC Common Grasshopper Warbler Common Nightingale European Bee-eater Black Kite Common Rock Thrush Snowfinch Locustella naevia Luscinia megarhynchos Merops apiaster Milvus migrans Monticola saxatilis Montifringilla nivalis Masked Wagtail Motacilla alba personata common Grey Wagtail Black-backed Citrine Wagtail Spotted Flycatcher Motacilla cinerea Motacilla citreola calcarata Muscicapa striata fairly common Karakol area seen throughout the country (Sary-Tash, Song Kul, Issyk kul) White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes multiple Ala- Archa (sites with Rubythroat) multiple Karakol (sites with Rubythroat) Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus 1, Ala-Archa (along river) Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes Karakol (Djeti Oguz) Black-crowned Night Heron Isabelline Wheatear Northern Wheatear Nycticorax nycticorax Oenanthe isabellina Oenanthe oenanthe Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka Skazka Indian Golden Oriole Oriolus kundoo throughout the country European Scops Owl Otus scops multiple, Arslanbob (along the river) , Karakol (along rivers)

17 Great Tit ssp major & Parus major 2, Osh (bokharensis) bokharensis Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis 1, Burana Tower Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Rosy Starling Pastor roseus common, lowland areas Grey Partridge Perdix perdix likely this species Coal Tit Periparus ater Rufous-naped Tit Periparus rufonuchalis Ala-Archa, , Rock Sparrow Great Cormorant Petronia petronia Phalacrocorax carbo Arslanbob, , Alamedin Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 1, Ottük, Blue-capped Redstart Güldenstädt's Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephala Phoenicurus erythrogastrus 4, Ala-Archa, , , Karakol 5, Peak Lenin BC 2, Djety-Oguz pass, 20/7 Eversmann's Redstart Phoenicurus erythronotus 1, Ala-Archa, , , Karakol, , Eastern Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros phoenicuroides Sulphur-bellied Warbler Phylloscopus griseolus 2, Ala-Archa , Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei Common Ala-Archa and Karakol Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Common Ala-Archa and Karakol Eurasian Magpie Pica pica Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus 1, Karakol Valley, , Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Songar tit Poecile songarus 1, Djety-Oguz, , Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis Fairly common Ala-Archa and Karakol (Habitat of Rubythroat) Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens 1, Karakol, , Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana fairly common Peak Lenin BC , Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris 5, Djety-Oguz pass Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus Common in Mountains Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 1, Karakol Water Rail Goldcrest Rallus aquaticus Regulus regulus

18 Eurasian Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys sanguineus multiple 1th day of horsetrek , , Tuura-Suu, , Sand Martin Riparia riparia Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus Skazka and Karakol, , Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis common Common Tern Sterna hirundo Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis Fairly common Arslanbob , and around Issyk Kul , Common Starling ssp porphyronotus Sturnus vulgaris porphyronotus Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria 2, Ottük Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus himalayensis 1, Ala Archa 10, Karakol, , Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Common Redshank Tringa totanus Common Blackbird Turdus merula Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus

19 Ala-Archa (Ak say valley), south up. Red area good for Tit warbler and Sulpher bellied warbler and other species of Juniper shrubs (BT-Accentor, WT-Rubythroat, RM-Rosefinch,...). At River crossing, multiple Rubythroats and Eversmanns Redstart. Forest around R N tit good for Humes and Greenish Warbler. Also couple of Grosbeaks. Overview of Arslanbob region with locations of White-Capped Bunting and White-Winged Woodpecker. Marker of Panorama is also site for W-C Bunting.

20 Area around Peak Lenin Basecamp (south facing image). Red area is approximate area which was birded. Overview of hiking trip near Karakol. Left the Djeti Oguz valley and right the Karakol valley with Ala Kul lake. Best places for mountain species between Ibisbill marker and nameless marker (Hill pigeon).

21 Upper part Djeti Oguz valley (after the bifurcation). East up on map. Red area s are Juniper areas where I birded and are good for Plain mountain finch, rubythroat, grosbeak, B T accentor,... Make sure to be on the east side of the river before you reach the basecamp, there is no crossing there. Cirque next to Ala Kul. South up on map. Black line shows approximately our trail. Snowcocks flying around the marked slope.