First Steps to South America 5th 17th February 2018

Transcription

1 Limosa Holidays Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago First Steps to South America 5th 17th February 2018 Green-rumped Parrotlet brightens up a roadside tree on Trinidad. Photo Jo Latham Report compiled by tour leader: Richard Thaxton Limosa Holidays, West End Farmhouse, Chapelfield, Stalham Norfolk NR12 9EJ tel: +44 (0) fax: +44 (0) info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 Trinidad & Tobago First Steps to South America Leaders: Richard Thaxton, Mahese Ramlal (Trinidad) & Newton George (Tobago) Trinidad & Tobago offer the visitor a pocket-sized piece of what South American birding has to offer, an ideal destination for the first-time visitor to the birding continent in the world. Whatever type of birds or birding you seek, a week based at the legendary Asa Wright Nature Centre enables you both to indulge your fancy and combine all these opportunities into one terrific tour. Whether it s Asa Wright s famous veranda - deservedly part of tropical birding lore - its grounds and network of rainforest trails with the promise of new birds at every look and turn, or the daily excursions to various habitats elsewhere be that forest, swamp, mangrove, seashore, savanna or scrub this tour reinforces the overwhelming biodiversity and beauty to be found in the tropics. It s an experience not to be missed, seldom matched and never forgotten. Of course you will all have your own special memories, but included below are just a few of the experiences we shared together in T&T. Just a very few selected highlights: Asa Wright s much fabled veranda! All those such colourful birds, from tanagers, euphonias to honeycreepers The frantic antics of all those hummingbirds The diminutive beauty of Tufted Coquettes Our Trogon Day on Blanchisseuse Road a pair of all three species That beautiful perched White Hawk The weird but wonderful Oilbirds That unexpected Ornate Hawk-Eagle Oh, that Bat Falcon! The dancing lekking White-bearded Manakins That Long-winged Harrier at Waterloo The ridiculously close Lineated Woodpecker Scarlet Ibis en masse at Caroni Swamp That Immortelle Tree full of Ruby Topaz & Red-legged Honeycreepers That cryptic Common Potoo All those motmots and jacamars along Bloody Bay Road. Even Scrub Greenlet for some! And so on. You ll all have your own.. Monday 5 th February. Check-in and departure at a warm & sunny London Gatwick all went smoothly, followed by a smooth flight, briefly touching down in St Lucia before onward to Piarco Airport, Port of Spain where we were met by our guide and driver Mahese Ramlal one of the family dynasty of bird guides on Trinidad. On exiting the airport, first birds were Carib Grackles and Shiny Cowbirds. We arrived at Asa Wright Nature Centre (AWNC), our base for the next seven nights, at dusk, to be met by the welcoming staff and a traditional introductory glass of rum punch, which was to become our sundowner each evening. There was just time to settle in to our rooms before the dinner bell rang out, after which it was promptly to bed after a long travel day. For those slow to drift off to sleep, birding began from our beds that night with the metronomic call of Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, which was to lull us to sleep each night and wake us up every morning. Tuesday 6 th February Reveille was provided by the owl, soon accompanied by Great Kiskadees, Tropical Mockingbirds and the resident House Wren, plus the excitement of what dawn would bring, had us up promptly at first light to experience the waking of the surrounding forest. And with coffee in hand, we took up position on Asa Wright s much-fabled veranda and marvelled at the waves of birds that began to arrive. Bats took final slurps from sugar solution feeders before heading off to roost, replaced by an array of stunning hummingbirds eager for that reenergising sugar-shot to stir them from their overnight torpor. First to arrive were White-necked Jacobins followed by White-chested Emeralds, Copper-rumped Hummingbirds, both Green and Rufous-breasted Hermits, Black-throated Mangos, Blue-chinned Sapphires, and the elfin Tufted Coquettes. When the thuggish, possessive jacobins would allow, the shy Long-billed Starthroat 2 Limosa Holidays

3 sneaked in too, so too Brown Violetear. Centre staff plied the bird tables with fresh fruit and immediately tanagers started to arrive Silver-beaked, Blue-grey, White-lined and Palm, plus others of this extensive New World family that don t bear the name tanager, including both the gaudy yet vibrantly-coloured Green and Purple Honeycreepers and the ubiquitous Bananaquits. There was so much to see right in front of us that it was easy not to look further out to surrounding trees and across the forest canopy, but as the forest stirred, there were raucous fly-bys of Orange-winged Parrots and Crested Oropendolas, both Turquoise and Bay-headed Tanagers to add to the mix. Both Bright-rumped Attila and Bearded Bellbird could be heard calling and we spotted the latter perched atop a distant tree there every morning from now on. It was hard to tear ourselves away when the breakfast bell rang, but we d got many more mornings of this beguiling birding experience to come. After breakfast, we returned to the veranda for more, before then meeting with Mahese and setting off down the Discovery/Bellbird Trail. The moment we stepped outside, a Black Hawk-Eagle soared overhead. In the Centre garden we had great views of Green Hermit, Slaty-capped Flycatcher, Cocoa, Spectacled and White-necked Thrush, but only glimpsed Golden-olive Woodpecker. The Bellbird Trail s not called that for nothing and sure enough their loud, metallic bonk call, like a smithy striking an anvil, resonated around the forest and above our heads. The sound that epitomises tropical rainforest. Eventually we found him and were able to scope him for a while, watching him doing some agitated branch-dancing, hopping about, presumably to impress an unseen female. Forest birding can be tough, so much often heard but not seen, and so it was with White-bellied Antbird, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Grey-fronted Dove and Little Tinamou all heard, but all adding to the rainforest experience. We checked for activity at lek sites of both White-bearded and Golden-headed Manakins, heard both but couldn t see them. More on them later. Trinidad Motmot was glimpsed, but all too fleetingly. Back on the veranda, with the heat now up, raptors were in evidence. Both Black and Turkey Vultures sailed back and forth high up and a beautiful White Hawk soared low over the forest canopy. We d had an early start and a busy morning, so after lunch we chilled out, a nap for some, yet more veranda-time for others, during which our first Barred Antshrike was seen, so too Yellow Oriole and Double-toothed Kite. Later we took a stroll along the Centre driveway seeing a Short-tailed Hawk high overhead and great views of Red-crowned Ant Tanager and a male Great Antshrike. We were back on the veranda for 5pm, our default now, seeing Brown Violetear and Long-billed Starthroat. It had been a busy, bird-filled first full day, phew! Wednesday 7 th February The routine now was to begin our day pre-breakfast on the veranda, not to be missed. We saw the usual suspects, but enjoyed them all the more as we became increasingly familiar with them. The threat of a written exam paper on the flight home, had everyone concentrating on their identification, requiring them to tell me what we were seeing! After breakfast Mahese collected us and we headed out for the day, along the Blanchisseuse Road, up and over Trinidad s Northern Range. We made numerous stops along the way on what became our Trogon Day seeing a pair each of Trinidad s trio - Collared, Guianan and Green-backed Trogons. A Lineated Woodpecker tapping on bamboo eventually hove into view, a Short-tailed Hawk soared overhead and there were Northern Waterthrushes in the road ahead of us as we drove. As we dropped down the other side of the range we found a White Hawk perched at eye-level about 50m away, so in the scope we had fantastic views, for over half an hour. It just sat there for us until we eventually gave up and moved on. A tour highlight surely? Further on at Morne la Croix where we lunched, we saw Blue Dacnis, Ruddy Ground Doves, Golden-fronted Greenlet, Tropical Kingbirds and Shiny Cowbirds. At a nesting colony of Yellow-rumped Caciques we found a Piratic Flycatcher, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, lots of Grey-breasted Martins on telephone wires, several Rufous-tailed Jacamars and a couple of Blue-black Grassquits. We were waiting too for Blue-headed Parrots, and lo, eventually, a dozen or so flew over us. On the way back we saw more jacamars, while Tropical Pewee and Olive-sided Flycatcher and Scaled Pigeons were new for us. At another stop we added Rufous-browed Peppershrike, both Red-rumped and Golden-olive Woodpeckers, an Olive-striped Flycatcher and Speckled Tanagers. We stopped for cake at Las Lapas Trace and in so doing saw, Grey-lined Hawk, Turquoise Tanagers and Red-legged Honeycreeper. Thursday 8 th February It was a veranda session to start with, for the usual melee of hummers and tanagers and also seeing Lineated Woodpecker and Bearded Bellbird in the same dead treetop and Orange-winged Parrots all over the place. We were to be off-site again today, to Nariva Swamp, but taking our time on the drive down and making several stops along the way. At one such stop we saw Grey-lined Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle, Short-tailed Hawk and a Yellow Oriole. Also, in a flowering Immortelle Tree, we found three Red-legged Honeycreepers and Blue-grey, Palm, Silver-beaked and White-lined Tanagers. Further down we found a migrant Broad-winged Hawk perched right by the road edge. We stopped at Mahese s house to try to see his resident Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, heard 3 Limosa Holidays

4 it but it wouldn t show itself but we did see two Streaked Flycatchers. We stopped on the main highway to look into the Aripo Cattle Station where we saw several Great Egrets, White-winged Swallows, a White-headed Marsh Tyrant and a Savanna Hawk. We stopped for lunch at Manzanilla where Magnificent Frigatebirds soared above us and Brown Pelicans passed offshore. As we drove along the Manzanilla Road, we stopped for Yellow-headed Caracara and a juvenile Snail Kite in the shoreline palms trees. At an area of roadside mangrove we saw Brown-crested Flycatcher, Redrumped Woodpecker, Northern Scrub Flycatcher, Black-crested Antshrike, a pair of Green Kingfishers and glimpsed a Bicoloured Conebill. At the mouth of the Nariva River a Cocoi Heron, Snowy Egrets and a Striated Heron stalked the shallows. A lone Sanderling ebbed and flowed at the edge of the surf. Along the access road into Nariva Swamp in roadside ditches we saw Pied Water Tyrants, more Striated Herons and Great Egrets, Southern Lapwings, two Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, Carib Grackles and Yellow-chinned Spinetails. Checking drainage channels we found several Little Blue Herons and three Solitary Sandpipers how can three be solitary? Further along we found Yellow-headed Caracara, lots of Cattle Egrets, a few Barn Swallows and Yellow-bellied Elaenias and another Savanna Hawk. In the later afternoon, having come equipped with rum punch in hand, we waited in hope that Red-bellied Macaws might come into roost at a regular spot. We stayed as late as we could but alas no macaws. Giant Cowbirds were nice though. On the drive back we saw our only Ringed Kingfisher of the trip. We were late back, so straight into dinner. Friday 9 th February We breakfasted early and by 6.30am we were off, down to the lowlands at Aripo savanna area. En route we made several roadside stops including back at that busy Immortelle Tree. Today there was a pair of Blue Dacnis, three Red-legged Honeycreepers and assorted tanagers. From this vantage point looking across the valley we picked out a Channel-billed Toucan poised for scoping and then Mahese found a perched Ornate Hawk-Eagle also posing for prolonged scoping. Surely another candidate for Bird of the Trip (a BOTT bird)? At another stop further down, we heard White-bellied Antbird, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila and White-flanked Antwren. We tried again for Mahese s Ferruginous Pygmy Owl but it continued to elude us. Not so that superb Bat Falcon perched atop a roadside snag. Down in the lowlands, at Aripo savanna we found Green-rumped Parrotlets, Yellow Oriole, two perched Pearl Kites, a Zone-tailed Hawk wafted over and meanwhile an impressive kettle of Black Vultures swirled overhead. At another site we located several Red-breasted Blackbirds and a Yellow Warbler but our view of Masked Yellowthroat was all too fleeting. A Grey Kingbird was unexpected and our luck was in with two Trinidad Euphonias. We moved on to Wallerfield, the old WW2 airfield now overgrown with some superb secondary growth forest and scrub. At a patch of moriche palms we looked for macaws but to no avail but finding a couple of Neotropical Palm Swifts. We lunched at Arena Forest but it was quite quiet over there. Back at Asa Wright, in the later afternoon we headed back down the Discovery Trail, finding White-necked Thrushes, Green Hermits, Guianan Trogon, Red-crowned Ant Tanager and heard White-bellied Antbird. After dinner we went for a night-walk along the drive with torches. The only bird we saw was a roosting Cocoa Woodcreeper in a hole in bamboo but we saw many other interesting critters, including tarantulas, land crabs, harvestmen, stick insects, plus a great starry night sky. Saturday 10 th February We were on-site today. Before breakfast we again ventured down the Discovery Trail to check out the manakins, and this time we were in luck. There were two fine male Golden-headed Manakins at their lek and a short way away there were at least six male White-bearded Manakins at theirs. The Golden-headed showed well but were more subdued. The White-bearded were much more animated, going bonkers in fact, jumping back and forth and snapping their wings in full display. It was a sheer delight to watch. A Black-faced Antthrush called nearby and we tried to locate it helped by Eunice s call mimicry. It responded and came close, but remained unseen down slope from us. Nice to hear it, though. A Plain-brown Woodcreeper and a Guianan Trogon were seen too - not a bad pre-breakfast sesh. After breakfast, Centre guide Caleb joined us for our visit to Dunstan Cave to see the oilbirds. Along the way we saw a Golden-olive Woodpecker, several Red-crowned Ant Tanagers and two more White-bearded Manakins. There was a flurry of activity high above us in the forest canopy and after much neck-craning we managed to pick out Streaked Xenops, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher and a White-fringed Antwren. At the cave entrance Caleb talked us through the unique ecology of the Oilbirds the only nocturnal fruit-eating bird in the world and one that uses echolocation as bats do, plus the part they ve played in Amerindian culture. We took turns to sneak a look by torchlight at a pair of Oilbirds on their precarious nest ledge. Such weird birds. 4 Limosa Holidays

5 On the way back to the Centre we had great views of both male & female Great Antshrike, more Red-crowned Ant Tanagers, more manakins, another Guianan Trogon and a Cocoa Woodcreeper. Whilst we were watching the latter, a huge insect came buzzing past, a Tarantula Hawk Wasp, a beast of a thing that preys on tarantulas, which is no mean feat. As we emerged from the oilbird trail a White-bellied Antbird called close by. We d heard it so often, at distance thus far, surely this was our chance to see it. And with patience we did, it finally showed itself giving us fabulous views. Back on the veranda ahead of lunch, two Golden-headed Manakins showed really close, after having put in all that early morning effort! A female Barred Antshrike showed too, while a Greylined Hawk sailed over. Later in the afternoon we alternated between veranda and car park and back to veranda in between showers, in search of an elusive Ruby Topaz Hummingbird that had been seen. Only fleeting glimpses were had but we needn t have fretted given what we eventually saw on Tobago. Up at the car park we enjoyed great eye-level views of Tufted Coquettes, a male Barred Antshrike this time and two Common Black Hawks high overhead. Back at the veranda, there were two White-bearded Manakins and a Blue Dacnis. Sunday 11 th February After yesterday s pre-breakfast manakin-fest, we couldn t resist the temptation to go to see them again, so after a short spell on the veranda we headed down the trail again. As we descended in the grey-dark of dawn, what we at first thought was an owl that flushed from a tree ahead of us, perched again just long enough to check and quickly get the scope on it for some - quite unbelievably it was an Ornate Hawk-Eagle, probably the same one seen previously further down the valley. At their respective leks, both Golden-headed and White-bearded Mankins were giving it laldie. Again we, or rather Eunice, tried to tempt the Black-faced Antthrush to show itself, but no. It was to remain a heard only bird, bah. After breakfast Mahese met us and we set off for our final full day on Trinidad, down to the lowlands and the coast. WE couldn t pass his house without another try for his Ferruginous Pygmy Owl, but still no! We did though finally see Boat-billed Flycatcher. Bobbing & weaving through Arima town we eventually stopped at Trincity Golf Course where a section of river was full of roosting waders comprising 40+ Southern Lapwings, 35+ Blacknecked Stilts, 25+ Greater Yellowlegs, 50+ Lesser Yellowlegs and a couple of Spotted Sandpipers. Also here were a Little Egret, Cattle Egrets, White-winged Swallows, Little Blue Herons, a Striated Heron with two chicks in a nest, White-headed Marsh Tyrant and a Red-breasted Blackbird the latter found by Stuart. Meanwhile an Osprey circled overhead and eventually landed nearby, giving fabulous views. As we headed off, Jo spotted four Saffron Finches, our only ones of the tour. We reached the coast at Waterloo. The tide was high so most of the waders and gulls were bunched up in the mangrove edges, not very visible. However we spent time discerning the differences between Western and Semipalmated sandpipers, Wilson s and Semipalmated Plovers. One of the latter helpfully lifted its foot and held it up so that we could actually see the semipalmations (webs) between the toes, showing translucent orange in the bright sunshine. At first it was frustrating to hear the assembled waders and gulls behind mangrove cover but not be able to see them. Then lo, when a superb pale morph Long-winged Harrier hove in to view, it wafted passed and conveniently flushed said waders, bringing them into view. There was a mix of the above-mentioned waders plus 30+ Willet, two Whimbrel, lots of both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs, 20+ Black Skimmers, a Grey Heron and 60+ Laughing Gulls. And the views we had of the harrier sweeping back and forth were superb my BOTT. We moved on to Orange Valley Road, a fish dock, where hundreds more Laughing Gulls were roosting, with two Lesser Black-backed Gulls amongst them and another 30+ Black Skimmers, plus Brown Pelicans loafed on boats. In the nearby mangroves we glimpses a Greater Ani, a Limpkin, a female Black-crested Antshrike and a Streak-headed Woodcreeper. Meanwhile Magnificent Frigatebirds patrolled offshore. We lunched at Carli Bay, usually a nice quiet spot, but it was Carnival-time in T&T while we were there and our lunch was interrupted and foreshortened by the din of competing boom-box revellers. So moving swiftly on, we had a date at Caroni Swamp but not before we stopped to look yet again for a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl (still no!), an American Redstart and then that magnificent Lineated Woodpecker right above our heads at its nest hole, bashed into a telegraph pole. At the boat dock, as we awaited our boat trip, we saw three Masked Cardinals and several Short-tailed Swifts overhead. We then met with Lester our boatman and set off along mangrove channels into the swamp. Lester gave us a lot of information about mangrove ecology and the differences between red, white and black mangrove, yet stopping to point out wildlife as we passed it. This included several Green-throated Mango hummingbirds, two Tropical Screech Owls, more cardinals, three Central American Tree Boas curled and suspended above our heads. Best though were the adult and juvenile Boat-billed Herons. Further along the channel we saw several Northern Waterthrushes, a Rufous-browed Peppershrike, a Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Little Blue Herons and a Yellow-crowned Nigh Heron. As we reached more open areas of mangrove swamp we picked out Anhinga, three Blue-winged Teal and a couple of Eared Doves. Eventually it was time for the main event. We moored and waited for the show to begin. And what a spectacular show it was. 5 Limosa Holidays

6 It began slowly at first, just a trickle, building to a torrent from all direction, of what we d primarily come here for the arrival to roost of Scarlet Ibises en masse, of them in total in the swamp, Lester informed us. We didn t see them all, but hey, we must have seen most of them, turning green mangrove islands red. Awesome or what? One of the world s great birding spectacles. It wasn t just the ibises either, there was a constant stream of assorted herons and egrets too, comprising Tricoloured Herons, Little Blue Herons and Snowy Egrets, making for a one of those wildlife dewy-eyed moments, washed down, toasted and no-doubt enhanced by supping celebratory rum punch. The grey-dark was soon upon us and it was sadly time to leave and head back, but what an astonishing finale it was, to our stay in Trinidad. Monday 12 th February It was our last day on Trinidad so it was on to the veranda at first light one last time before breakfast, then after breakfast, in between packing and before and after lunch. It s hard to stay away from such a bird-busy place. By now much was very familiar to us, yet no less thrilling and enjoyable and new birds can always turn up, which for us this morning involved a Black-tailed Tityra. Eventually, though it was time to move on, to leave Asa Wright, and Trinidad, to head for Tobago. We said our goodbyes to the Centre staff who d looked after us so well, then Mahese whisked us off to Piarco Airport for the short inter-island flight. On arrival, we met our guide Newton George and driver Wendel and without further ado, we drove directly to Blue Waters Inn. Well, not quite directly. Carnival was in full swing here too and street processions required us to take a detour. At one point we were stopped by a group of Black Devils, scary-looking guys covered in black paint and wearing ghoulish masks. They meant us no harm, just part of the Carnival celebrations. We arrived at Blue Waters Inn in the late afternoon with plenty of time to unpack and settle-in for the remainder of the tour. Tuesday 13 th February We started early today, woken by Rufous-vented Chachalacas, taking a pack-up breakfast with us to head to the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, cloaking Tobago s tail-end of the mighty Andes. As we waited for Wendel to pick us up we saw a female Ruby Topaz in the hotel garden. We set off at 06.30am, met up with Newton and set off to Roxborough. Here we made a brief stop to see a roosting Common Potoo and our first three of what would amount to a daily total of 15+ Trinidad Motmots, a bird that had proved so difficult for us in Trinidad. We then headed up along the road to Bloody Bay road, making several stops along this quiet, beautiful rainforest-edged road. At our next stop we saw our first Rufous-tailed Jacamar of the day too, (8+ in all), another bird easier to see in Tobago than Trinidad. Here too were Shiny Cowbirds, Violaceous Euphonias, Broad-winged Hawk and Red-tailed Squirrels. We walked the next stretch, finding yet more motmots and jacamars, plus our first Whitetailed Sabrewings, plus a Barred Antshrike, a Collared Trogon and Giant Cowbirds. Further up the road at a fruiting tree we saw several White-necked Thrushes, Scrub Greenlet, Cocoa Woodcreeper, more Violaceous Euphonias and two superb male and a female Blue-backed Manakins. After a brief stop for our pack-up breakfast, we set off down Gilpin Trace, a trail into the rainforest. A Venezuelan Flycatcher called above us in the high canopy but was difficult to see, easier was a pair of Stripe-breasted Spinetails, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Rufous-breasted Wren, Plain Antvireo, a male Blue-backed Manakin and more sabrewings. An Olivaceous Woodcreeper was heard but showed oh so fleetingly. After emerging from the forest depths, we made tracks back down the road to Roxborough, stopping along the way at that fruiting tree. There were still manakins and White-necked Thrushes, but alas we couldn t find a Yellow-legged Thrush. However, what made up for that was the stop we made at a flowering Immortelle Tree that was frantically busy with birds, including at least a dozen Ruby Topaz Hummingbirds!!!! Added to which there were Black-throated Mangos, Copper-rumped Hummingbirds, at least four Red-legged Honeycreepers, Bananaquits, Palm and Bluegrey Tanagers and a Red-crowned Woodpecker in the mix too. Wow! We were back at Blue Waters Inn for a late lunch after which we took a gentle saunter up the driveway and down the road to the edge of town. It was quite a productive time, seeing our first Black-faced Grassquits, Northern White-fringed Antwrens and ten Rufous-vented Chachalacas, plus Red-crowned Woodpecker, Palm & Blue-grey Tanagers, Shiny Cowbirds, Brown Pelicans, Osprey and Magnificent Frigatebirds over the bay, while down by the river we found two juvenile Night Herons, one of each, a Black-crowned and a Yellow-crowned, giving us a good chance to compare the differences between them. Wednesday 14 th February There was quite a storm overnight and we woke to strong wind and squally rain. It was our planned boat trip out to Little Tobago this morning but it wasn t looking good. The sea was very rough, there was a heavy swell and waves could be seen crashing over the landing stage out at the island. The boatman arrived at 10am and in consultation with him our trip was cancelled. There had been difficulties landing out there the day before. This was disappointing but, given the conditions which persisted all day and indeed the next day - it was the safe 6 Limosa Holidays

7 call. The first time the trip s not gone ahead. No matter, sea-watching from the hotel we could see Red-billed Tropicbirds and the menacing piratic frigatebirds shadowing them, plus Brown Boobies skimming the waves. Ospreys circled the bay, no-doubt struggling to see fish in the swell. Turnstones scurried along the beach between crashing waves and a Belted Kingfisher was an unexpected bonus. An earlier lunch was arranged, after which we set off along the Starwood Trace trail above the hotel. As we set off we met a couple returning from their bird walk and we were told there wasn t much to see. We didn t want to hear that really, but in fact for us it proved to be a busy session with lots of birds, including our first Fuscous Flycatcher and Pale-vented Pigeon, plus Black-faced Grassquits, Yellow-bellied Elaenias, Brown-crested Flycatchers, Scrub Greenlets, Northern White-fringed Antwrens, Shiny Cowbirds, both male and female Barred Antshrike, Tropical Kingbirds and our best views yet of both Ruby Topaz Hummingbirds and Rufous-tailed Jacamars scope-fulls of em at close range. Thursday 15 th February Woken early again by the raucous wake-up chorus of Rufous-vented Chachalacas, taking a pack-up breakfast with us, we set off with Newton for a round island tour. Our first stop was at Studley Park, just beyond Roxborough where there was a Great Blue Heron wading in the surf and 14 Royal Terns ripe for scoping on a jetty. Here too were two Semipalmated Plovers. Further on we entered the Tobago Plantation Beach and Golf Course complex. (TPBGC). On the lake here we saw Green Herons, Anhingas, Black-crowned Night Herons, Little Blue Herons, Spotted sandpipers and both Purple and Common Gallinules, and Spectacled Caimans. Further in, we stopped for our pack-up breakfast as we watched nesting Cattle Egrets, got close views of breeding Tricoloured Herons with their nuptial bright blue beaks, with huge iguanas all in the same bush. Nearby there was Grey Kingbird, American Yellow warbler, Blue-black Grassquits, Brown-crested Flycatchers, Yellowbreasted Flycatcher, Scrub Greenlet and Caribbean Martins overhead. After breakfast we ventured along a boardwalk through the mangroves and in here found Yellow-crowned Night Herons. Whimbrel, Red-crowned Woodpecker and Cocoa Woodcreeper. We did our bit for mangrove regeneration by dropping saplings picked up on the walkway into the exposed mud. As we left TPBGC a Peregrine Falcon came hurtling in and attempted to knock a Snowy Egret out of the air. It missed, but then landed in a nearby tree for us to scope. Next stop was Bon Accord sewage ponds a bird tour has to have a visit to a sewage pond, great places for birds. And so it proved. Here we saw our first and only Least Grebes and White-cheeked Pintail, plus White-winged Swallows and a Great Blue Heron. We lunched at Pigeon Point and then drove back to Blue waters Inn along the entire length of the road on the Caribbean side of the island, a twisting, tortuous road but through some stunning forest and coastal scenery with secluded bays. We must have seen 20+ Trinidad Motmots along this route and 40+ Giant Cowbirds including 18 together on a football pitch, the males performing their inflated bull-necked courting posturing strut. Friday 16 th February Our last morning. We had a couple of hours to spare before preparing for departure and lunch, so we ventured back up along the Starwood Trace trail. Here we had our last and by far our best look at Ruby Topaz Hummingbirds, showing off all their crimson and gold finery, great views too of Fuscous Flycatcher, Northern White-fringed Antwrens, Yellow-bellied Elaenias and Brown-crested Flycatchers. Meanwhile squadrons of frigatebirds passed overhead. We had hoped that Great Black Hawk might be one last new bird for the trip, but no, Hey-ho, can t win em all. After lunch Wendel arrived on time to whisk off to the airport for our flight home, stopping briefly at Antigua en route, arriving at London Gatwick on Day 13, Saturday 17 th February. The above summary account and accompanying annotated checklist I hope serves as a memento of our time together in T&T, and helps you re-live the experience, with many highlights that will live long in the memory. Thank you for coming along and sharing it! Richard W Thaxton, February Limosa Holidays

8 Annotated Bird List (A total of 209 species) Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Frustratingly, heard only, calling hauntingly from the depths of the forest at AWNC on 06-11/02. Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis Two, Nariva Swamp, 08/02. Blue-winged Teal Anas discors Three, Caroni Swamp, 11/02. White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis One at Bon Accord sewage ponds, Tobago, 15/02. Rufous-vented Chachalaca Ortalis ruficauda Our early morning wake-up call at Blue Waters Inn (BWI) and seen daily on Tobago. Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Two at Bon Accord sewage ponds 15/02. Red-billed Tropicbird Phaethon aethereus Seen daily, from the bar, the pool, the terrace and the balcony of our rooms at BWI, Tobago, but at distance, off-shore, 12-16/02. Scarlet Ibis Eudocimus ruber of them coming in to roost at Caroni Swamp, 11/02. A tour Highlight for sure. Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius cochlearius An adult and a juvenile roosting in mangroves, Caroni Swamp, 11/02. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax A juvenile at the stream at the entrance to BWI and one at Roxborough,13/02 and then 10+ at Tobago Plantation Beach & Golf Course complex (henceforth TPBGC) Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Three at mangrove edges and exposed mud in Caroni Swamp, 11/02 and a juvenile near BWI, 13/02. Green Heron Butorides virescens Four at TPBGC complex & two at Bon Accord sewage ponds, 15/02. Striated Heron Butorides striata Several seen at Nariva Swamp on 08/02 and others in Caroni Swamp on 11/02. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Very common in the lowlands of Trinidad throughout the week, fewer seen on Tobago, but including a nesting rookery at TPBGC on 15/02. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea One in the mangroves at Caroni Swamp 11/02. Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias One at Nariva Swamp on 11/02 and one standing in the surf at Roxborough beach, Tobago 15/02.. Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Just the one, Nariva Swamp, 08/02. Great Egret Ardea alba Three at Aripo Cattle Station and several more at Nariva Swamp on 08/02. Several others in Caroni Swamp on 11/02 and a few on Tobago at TPBGC and Bon Accord sewage ponds on 15/02. Tricoloured Heron Egretta tricolor 100+ at Caroni Swamp 11/02 and a pair amongst the nesting Western Cattle Egrets at TPBGC, 15/02. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Four at Nariva Swamp on 08/02, then 60+ in total at Waterloo / Caroni Swamp 11/02. Fewer on Tobago at TPBGC & Bon Accord, 15/02. Snowy Egret Egretta thula Several at Nariva Swamp on 08/02, then 25+ in Caroni Swamp on 11/02, plus a few at TPBGC 15/02. Little Egret Egretta garzetta One, in the river at Trincity Golf Course, 11/02. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis A few off-shore / overhead at Manzanilla, 08/02, 40+ off-shore and loafing on boats at Waterloo 11/02 and then 1-2 daily on Tobago in the bay in front of BWI. Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Several birds off-shore / overhead at Manzanilla on 08/02, more off-shore at Waterloo on 11/02 and then at BWI, Tobago 12-16/02. Brown Booby Sula leucogaster 6+ seen from BWI, Tobago, 14/02. 8 Limosa Holidays

9 Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus One at Carli Bay, 11/02 and four on Tobago at TPBGC, 15/02. Anhinga Anhinga anhinga One in Caroni Swamp on 11/02 then 10+ on Tobago at TPBGC, 15/02. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common on Trinidad, several seen daily. Absent from Tobago. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Very common on Trinidad. Ubiquitous. None on Tobago. Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus Good views of one perched at Trincity Golf Course, then three others later at Caroni Swamp on 11/02, then on Tobago 1-2 in the bay at BWI 12-16/02. Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii leonae A pair, Aripo savanna, 09/02. Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus One above us on the Discovery Trail at AWNC on 06/02 and another on the drive down from AWNC, 08/02. Ornate Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus ornatus One perched across the valley on the road down from AWNC on 09/02, then one on the Discovery Trail at AWNC on 11/02. Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus One, from the veranda at AWNC, 06/02. Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni A fabulous pale morph at Waterloo, 11/02. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis One, a juvenile, Manzanilla road, 08/02. Common Black Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus Seen on seven dates from the veranda / grounds of AWNC. Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis One, at the Aripo Cattle Station and then three at Nariva Swamp, 08/02, one at Aripo savanna, 09/02. White Hawk Leucopternis albicollis A soaring bird seen twice from the AWNC veranda on 06 & 08/02, but best was that perched bird, watched for 30 minutes at eye level on the Blanchisseuse Road, 07/02. Grey-lined Hawk Buteo nitidus Seen on five dates, at AWNC and on the road down. Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus One on the road down from AWNC, 08/02, and then one at Main Ridge Forest Reserve, (MRFR) 13/02 Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Seen on five dates, at AWNC and on the road down. Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus One seen, Aripo savanna, 09/02. Purple Gallinule Porphyrula martinica Only seen on Tobago several adults and juveniles at TPBGC, 15/02. Common Gallinule Gallinula galeata Only seen on Tobago several at TPBGC and at Bon Accord sewage ponds, 15/02. Limpkin Aramus guarauna One, Orange Valley Road, Waterloo, 11/02. Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus mexicanus 35+ in the river at Trincity Golf Course, 11/02. One, TPBGC, 15/02. Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Seen on five dates across both islands. Max. 50+ TPBGC, 15/02. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Just the one, amongst mixed waders flushed by a Long-winged Harrier at Waterloo, 11/02. Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus 6+ at Waterloo in a mixed flock of waders including Western & Semi-palmated Sandpipers at Waterloo, 11/02. Two on the shore at Roxborough, Tobago, 15/02. Wilson s Plover Charadrius wilsonia Two, in mixed waders as above, Waterloo 11/02. Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Common & widespread on both islands Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus One on the mudflats at Waterloo, 11/02 and two in the mangroves at TPBGC, 15/02. 9 Limosa Holidays

10 Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 25+ roosting in the river at Trincity Golf Course, and several others at both Waterloo & Caroni Swamp, 11/02. Two at Bon Accord sewage ponds, Tobago on 15/02. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes 50+ with the above Greater Yellowlegs, roosting in the river at Trincity Golf Course. Others, in Caroni Swamp, 11/02. Six at Bon Accord, sewage ponds, Tobago, 15/02. Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Three, Nariva Swamp, 08/ in total at Waterloo and Caroni Swamp, 11/02 and then one on Tobago, at Bon Accord, 15/02. Willet Tringa semipalmata 25+ at Waterloo, 11/02 conveniently flushed for us by that Long-winged Harrier. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius 10+ seen during our boat trip at Caroni Swamp on 11/02 and six in total at TPBGC and at Bon Accord, 15/02. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres 14 daily on the beach and jetty at BWI, Tobago, 12-16/02. Sanderling Calidris alba One, at the mouth of the Nariva River, Manzanilla Road, 08/02. Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla A great opportunity to look in close-up at a flock of 20+ mixed Calidrids Semi-Ps and Westerns, on the mudflats at Waterloo, 11/02. Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri As above. Black Skimmer Rynchops niger 40+ in total on the mud at Waterloo, 11/02. Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Several hundred at Waterloo 11/02. On Tobago, 20+ in the bay at Charlotteville 15/02. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Two in among the hundreds of Laughing Gulls, at Waterloo, 11/02. Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus On Tobago only, there were 14 on that concrete pier near Roxborough, 15/02. Feral Rock Dove Columba livia A few seen, in towns and villages on both islands. Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa One seen twice from the veranda at AWNC, 07/02 & 10/02. Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis On Tobago, four seen, MRFR, 13/02 and 3-4 around BWI, 14-15/02. Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Seen daily on both islands. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi One or two seen on all Tobago days, mostly drive-by birds, 12-16/02. Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Heard daily at AWNC and eventually one seen on 10/02. Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Three seen in Caroni Swamp, 11/02 and several seen at TPBGC Tobago 15/02. Greater Ani Crotophaga major One, seen briefly in mangroves at Orange Valley Road, Waterloo, 11/02. Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common and widespread in lowlands, both islands. Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia One, heard only, Aripo savanna, 09/02. Tropical Screech Owl Megascops choliba Two roosting together in the Caroni Swamp mangroves 11/02. Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Heard every night / early morning at AWNC, and along the Blanchisseuse Road, and at Mahese s house each time we passed, but could we find one? Bah! Oilbird Steatornis caripensis Just two of these weirdos at the entrance to Dunstan s Cave, AWNC, 10/02. Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus On Tobago, one seen in daytime along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road, 13/02. Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicaudus Seen daily. With care some, could be sifted out amongst Grey-rumped, in daily fly-by flocks at AWNC. 10 Limosa Holidays

11 Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Seen daily, as above. The more common of the two species. Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura 10+ seen near Waterloo, 11/02. On Tobago, several over the Visitor Centre on the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road 13/02 and then a few at Bon Accord on 15/02. Neotropical Palm Swift Tachornis squamata Just two at the Moriche palm area of Wallerfield on 09/02. Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta Seen every day at AWNC. Green Hermit Phaethornis guy Seen every day at AWNC. Little Hermit Phaethornis longuemareus Seen twice, at AWNC 09-10/02. White-tailed Sabrewing Campylopterus ensipennis Only on Tobago. 7+ seen on 13/02; along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road, and along the Gilpin Trace. White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora Many seen daily at AWNC. One, Gilpin Trace, Tobago, 13/02. Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae One, almost daily at AWNC. Green-throated Mango Anthracothorax viridigula Four seen at Caroni Swamp, 11/02. Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis At least 2-3 seen daily from AWNC veranda. On Tobago, one along the Gilpin Trace 13/02 and one along Starwood Trace, 14/02 and again on 16/02. Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird Chrysolampis mosquitus One at AWNC, but not seen well, but to make up for that, on Tobago we saw 12+ buzzing an Immortelle Tree, at Speyside, and had our best views along the Starwood Trace above BWI on 14/02 and again on 16/02. A BOTT (Bird Of The Trip) contender surely? Tufted Coquette Lophornis ornatus Very obliging this year, with several daily from the veranda at AWNC. Blue-chinned Sapphire Chlorostilbon notata One seen at AWNC, 06/02 then 10-12/02. White-chested Emerald Amazilia brevirostris Daily, at AWNC veranda feeders. Copper-rumped Hummingbird Amazilia tobaci As above, but fewer than the W-c Emeralds Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris Seen on six dates at AWNC feeders. Green-backed Trogon Trogon viridis A pair seen along the Blanchisseuse Road on 07/02. Guianan Trogon Trogon violaceus A pair also seen along the Blanchisseuse Road on 07/02. Collared Trogon Trogon collaris To complete our Trogon Day, a pair also seen on the Blanchisseause Road, 07/02 and then one seen on the Discovery Trail at AWNC on 09-10/02. On Tobago, one seen on the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road, 13/02. Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana A pair seen from the bridge along the Manzanilla road on 08/02. Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata One crossed the road in front of the van, Manzanilla Road, 08/02. Belted Kingfisher Megaceryle alcyon One, a male, seen at BWI, Tobago, 14/02. Trinidad Motmot Momotus bahamensis On Trinidad, only glimpsed one along the Discovery Trail at AWNC on 06/02 but then on Tobago we saw 10+ along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road on 13/02, one at BWI on 14/02 and 7+ along the Caribbean coast road to Charlotteville, 15/02. Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda Great views of birds on the Blanchisseuse Road and later at More La Croix - 6 in total on 07/02. On Tobago, seen daily with 8+ along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road on 13/02. Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus Seen daily at AWNC, either from the veranda or from the road down to Arima. 11 Limosa Holidays

12 Red-crowned Woodpecker Melanerpes rubricapillus Tobago only; Seen daily, including good views of one in that roadside Immortelle tree buzzing with topaz hummers 13/02 and close prolonged views along Starwood Trace on 14/02 Red-rumped Woodpecker Venilornis kirkii One on the Blanchisseuse Road on 07/02, one on the Manzanilla road on 08/02 and one on the road down to Arima,11/02. Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus At AWNC, one on Dicovery Trail on 06/02, one on the Blanchisseuse Road on 07/02 and one from the veranda at AWNC on 10/02. On Tobago, just heard, on the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road on 13/02. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Two distant perched birds at AWNC on 06/02 and 07/02 and heard on two other days, but then storming close views of one at a nest hole in a telegraph pole at Carli Bay, 11/02. Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima One along the Manzanilla road on /08/02 and one at the Aripo savanna area on 09/02. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Another BOTT candidate? That perched bird atop a dead tree on the road down from AWNC to Arima, 09/02. Peregrine Falco peregrinus On Tobago, one at TPBGC, attempting to catch a Snowy Egret before perching and giving us fine scope views. 15/02. Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus A dozen, fly-by birds at Morne la Croix, Blanchisseuse Road, 07/02. Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica Seen daily, on both islands. The commonest parrot species on the islands. Green-rumped Parrotlet Forpus passerinus Four in the Aripo savanna area 09/02. On Tobago, 2-3 zipping about at TPBGC, 15/02. Stripe-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis cinnamomea A pair seen on Gilpin Trace, Tobago, 13/02. Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea Several seen at nariva Swamp, 08/02. Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans One seen alopng the trail to the oilbird cave at AWNC, 10/09. Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa One on the AWNC entrance driveway, 07/02 and one on the trail to the oilbird cave, 10/02. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomas griseicapillus Just the one seen fleetingly, and another heard along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road, and another heard along the Gilpin Trace, 13/02. Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus Two, Caroni Swamp mangroves, 11/02. Cocoa Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus susurrans One seen roosting in a hole in bamboo on our night-walk at AWNC, 09/02. Another on the trail to the oilbird cave, 10/02. One on Tobago along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road, 13/02. Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii littorali One, Nariva Swamp mangroves, 08/02. Great Antshrike Taraba major At AWNC, a pair along the Discovery Trail 06/02, and a pair along the trail to the oilbird cave, 10/02. Black-crested Antshrike Sakesphorus canadensis One heard at Nariva Swamp, 08/02 and then a pair seen briefly in Caroni Swamp, 11/02. Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Heard, if not seen, daily at veranda and elsewhere in grounds of AWNC. On Tobago; great views of a pair along Starwood Trace, 14/02. Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis On Tobago, a pair seen well along the Gilpin Trace, 13/02. White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris One on the AWNC driveway on 07/02, one heard in the Aripo savanna area 09/02, then a pair seen along the tail to the oilbird cave, 10/02. Northern White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea On Tobago, a pair on our walk along the road from BWI on 13/02, a male along the Starwood Trace on 14/02 and again on 16/02. White-bellied Antbird Myrmeciza longipes Heard daily at AWNC and from the road down to Arima, but then superb views of a male as we returned from the oilbird cave, 10/ Limosa Holidays

13 Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis Heard several times on the Discovery Trail at AWNC, but try as we might we didn t get to see it, despite Eunice s efforts at mimicry. Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Two, Nariva Swamp on 08/02. Several seen daily on Tobago 12-16/02. Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum One, Blanchisseuse Road, 07/02. Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus venezuelensis One, Blanchisseuse Road, 07/02. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous One on the trail to the oilbird cave, 10/02 and then on Tobago, one along the Gilpin Trace, 13/02. Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris At AWNC, one on the Discovery Trail on 07/02, then one in roadside mangroves at Nariva Swamp, 08/02. Northern Scrub Flycatcher Sublegatus arenarum glaber One in roadside mangroves at nariva Swamp, 08/02. Yellow-olive Flatbill Tolmomyias sulphurescens One seen along the trail to the oilbird cave on 10/02. Ochre-lored Flatbill Tolmomyias flaviventris On Tobago, two seen at TPBGC, 15/02. Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemptriccus fuscatus On Tobago, one seen in the grounds of BWI, 15/02 and then wonderful close views of one along Starwood Trace, 16/02. Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi One, along Blanchisseuse Road 07/02. Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus One, along Blanchisseuse Road, 07/02. Pied Water Tyrant Fluvicola pica Two at Nariva Swamp, 08/02. White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala One at the Aripo Cattle Station and two at Nariva Swamp, 08/02. Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius One perched in that tree with the Yellow-rumped Cacique nests, More La Croix, Blanchisseuse Raod, 07/02. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Common everywhere in Trinidad, curiously absent from Tobago. Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynates maculatus Two, on the road down from AWNC to Arima on 08/02 and there again on 11/02. Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarhynchus pitangua Heard several times at AWNC then finally seen on the road down to Arima, 11/02. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Common and widespread. Grey Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis On Trinidad, one in the Aripo savanna area on 09/02 then one at Waterloo on 11/02. On Tobago, one at BWI on 13/02 and one along Starwood Trace, 14/02. Venezuelan Flycatcher Myiarchus venezuelensis One heard on the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road, and one seen high in the canopy on Gilpin Trace, 13/02. Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus One, in roadside mangroves at Nariva swamp, 08/02. On Tobago, one along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road on 13/02 and 3-4 along Starwood Trace, 14/02. Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Heard daily from the veranda at AWNC. One seen briefly on the Blanchisseuse Road, 07/02. Bearded Bellbird Procnias averano Seen & heard every morning from the veranda at AWNC. Seen close and wonderfully well on the Discovery Trail on 06/02. Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola Tobago only. Four males and three females seen in total along the Roxborough to Bloody Bay road 13/02. White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Seen & heard at AWNC on six dates, from the veranda, along the oilbird trail and fabulous close lekking birds on the Discovery Trail. Golden-headed Manakin Pipra erythrocephala At AWNC, two males seen along the Discovery Trail and then two from the veranda, 10/ Limosa Holidays