Centre of Excellence for Leather Skill Bangladesh Limited (COEL)

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1 Centre of Excellence for Leather Skill Bangladesh Limited (COEL) Three days Module Machine Operator Sewing, Cutting, Insole, Outsole & Lasting Some Short name Page 1 of 22

2 SDC The Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation BMET Bangladesh Manpower Employment & Training BTEB Bangladesh Technical Education Board NTVQF National Technical & Vocational Qualification Framework COEL - Centre of Excellence for Leather Skill Bangladesh Limited EU - European Union GoB - Government of Bangladesh PRICE - Poverty Reduction by Increasing the Competitiveness of Enterprises TVET - Technical Vocational Education & Training NTVQF - National Technical Vocational Qualification Framework About COEL. The first Apprenticeship Pilot Program in country for Leather Sector Workers was held at Centre of Excellence for Leather Skill Bangladesh Limited (COEL), Pallibiddut, Kaliakoir, Gazipur on June 7, It is an Initiative of the Centre of Excellence for Leather Skill Bangladesh Limited (COEL) with support from USAID/PRICE & ILO/TVET Reform Project. COEL is a one stop training organization for leather sector in Bangladesh. It s providing training three prior occupations. Like Cutting, Sewing and Lasting. Actually COEL continuing Apprentice training program of BMET for machine operator training program. The apprentices will be registered with the Bureau of Manpower, Employment and Training (BMET), the competent authority of Bangladesh by the apprenticeship rules & legislation. After completing the training program COEL provide the certificate trainee who successfully complete their twelve (12) months training program. The trainee can use the certificate in future for his/her as a work document not only in Bangladesh but also at different country out of Bangladesh. Total duration of this apprenticeship training will be 01 year, of which 03 months will be both on/off the job training at floor level closely monitored by COEL and rest 09 months will be workplace learning at factory premises based on competency based log book. After a short orientation program, COEL will place apprentices to different companies based on the demand placed. The expected benefits of the apprenticeship program are as followings: The whole program is totally different with new competency based training (CBT) system where a log book will be followed and structured workplace assessment will take place The trainees will get dual certificate; one as successful apprentice from Bureau of Manpower Employment &Training (BMET), another certificate from Bangladesh Technical Education Board (BTEB) as per the proposed National Vocational Qualification Framework (NVQF) after accreditation of the program and approval of the NVQF. Provides a clear career path to go for the next level of skills and payment based on skills. The industry will get a group of people with structured learning procedure that leads to better productivity. Employers can hire the right man in right place with the help of NVQF certificate. This step will gradually increase remuneration in the industry at the end of the program. Page 2 of 22

3 About SDC SDC is donary organization which funding by Switzerland. The goal of the organization is to develop the status of poor people by developing their technical knowledge. In time of their self developing period they also provide the trainee for their survival. SDC not only provide the stipend money to all trainees but also they also bear each & every cost of training materials which are need to train the trainee. What is training? Training is the combination of knowledge, Skill & attitude. Knowledge Knowledge is the gathering past experience. Skill Anyone can perform a fixed work on time or before of work schedule is called Skill. Attitude Willingness to perform any types of work is attitude. Types of training Formal Training Collect any knowledge from any institute which is control by different expert person and have certified facility is called Formal training. Non formal Training Out of any institutional knowledge to collect knowledge arranging training program is called non formal training. Informal Training By following any person or work to collect knowledge is informal training. Benefit of training Proper use of industry asset Create skill worker Increase team workforce Inter communication/relation develop of worker Clear communication pathway Reduce conflict of workforce Reduce the risk. Ensure the proper management. What is personal protective equipment? Personal protective equipment (PPE) is any clothing, equipment or substance designed to protect a person from risks of injury or illness. Some types of PPE Page 3 of 22

4 Sl. No. Name Portrait view 1 Apron 2 Safety goggles 3 Earmuff/Earplug 4 Hand gloves 5 Mask 6 Finger gourd Benefit of staying long term job Easy to self-development on economical status. Easy to self-development on social status. Easy to self-development as skill person. Easy to self-development at industrial position. Page 4 of 22

Safety Requirements Cutting All clicking presses should only be operated with the use of both hands. Only the actual knife being used should be on the clicking board.

When using the grind stone for making or sharpening cutting knives should be used safety. Do not use a grind stone without glasses. Switch off grindstone when not in use.

Care should be taken when handling knives many have sharp edges, pins etc. Which can cut your fingers? Never place your hands or fingers under the beam of the press to release a knife.

5 Safety Requirements Cutting All clicking presses should only be operated with the use of both hands. Only the actual knife being used should be on the clicking board. Scissors and knife should not be allowed on the clicking board. Clicking press should not be struck on the edge of the beam to release them, from the board, they can spring up. When using the grind stone for making or sharpening cutting knives should be used safety. Do not use a grind stone without glasses. Switch off grindstone when not in use. Avoid wearing loose clothing it can get caught in machinery. Long hair or loose clothing should not be allowed near machinery. Care should be taken when handling knives many have sharp edges, pins etc. Which can cut your fingers? Never place your hands or fingers under the beam of the press to release a knife. Do not have anything on the clicking board after you turn off the machine. When the power is turned off the beam automatically lowers itself on the cutting board. When you working in machine not to be careless. Know your Fire drill. Do not attempt to do your own electrical repairs. Machineries used in cutting department Sl. No. Name Portrait view 1 Swing arm clicking cutting machine. 2 Travelling head cutting machine. 3 Stamping machine. 4 Embossing machine. Page 5 of 22

5 Splitting machine. 6 Thread burner. 7 Zero to punch machine.

There boards are available in various thicknesses. They are also available in difference hardness. The colour of the nylon also represents the type of hardness.

The cost of replacement or repair plus the cost of lost production. Knives can be stored in shelves; these are normally specially made for this purpose.

If knives must be placed on top each other they should have a paper or card board between each layer.

6 5 Splitting machine. 6 Thread burner. 7 Zero to punch machine. Cutting Board There are various types of clicking boards for clicking press available today; the main type that is used in India is the nylon board. There boards are available in various thicknesses. They are also available in difference hardness. The colour of the nylon also represents the type of hardness. The main colours are white, green and red. Storage Procedure of Knives When knives are damaged through bad storage the cost can be quite high. The cost of replacement or repair plus the cost of lost production. Knives can be stored in shelves; these are normally specially made for this purpose. The main storage method required should be such that no knife is placed on top of another. This reduces the knife of the cutting blade. If knives must be placed on top each other they should have a paper or card board between each layer. This is especially important when packing knives away after order has been completed. They should be boxed and labelled to allow quick access and should not be damaged in storage. Some Faults and defects in Leather: 1. Color Fastness. 2. Flay cuts. 3. Vein Marks. 4. Wrinkle mark. 5. Looseness. 6. Grain jam. 7. Scratch. 8. Growth marks. 9. Pox mark. 10. Wound mark. Checks after cutting: The correct number of sections, The correct number of lefts & rights, Page 6 of 22

7 Undercut or chipped sections & accuracy of prick marks, Correct direction & amount of stretch. All components should be cut to the exact shape of the pattern. Bundle the components nearly on top of each other; place an elastic band around them to hold them in position. Grain side in. The clicker will continue cutting until he has cut required pair age. They would normally be bundled in 5 pair lots. Check them perfectly. Check for quality on each piece if missing. Different parts of a shoe Shoe Manufacturing Process (Sequence Wise) Pattern Making Cutting Inspection Stitching Stamping Skiving Upper Ready Lasting Dept Toe Puffing Side Lasting Toe Lasting Insole Fixing Counter Lasting Roughing Sole Pasting Finishing De-Lasting Heat Setting Packing Page 7 of 22

Synthetic Stamping foil Synthetic ornaments Lace Machineries used in sewing section Sl.

8 Sewing Materials used: Metals Eyelets Ornaments Revert Hook Buckles Adhesive Neoprene Latex PU Other materials Thread Counter Silver pen Socks label Tape Elastic Toe puff Synthetic Stamping foil Synthetic ornaments Lace Machineries used in sewing section Sl. No. Name Portrait view 1 Flat Bed sewing machine 2 Post Bed Sewing machine Page 8 of 22

9 3 Cylinder Arm Sewing Machine 4 Zigzag machine 5 Fusing Machine 6 Skiving Machine 7 Folding Machine 8 Counter moulding machine 9 Toe puff attaching machine 10 Eyeleting machine Page 9 of 22

10 11 Trimming machine 12 Binding machine Different parts of sewing Machine Sl. No. Name of M/C parts Sl. No. Name of M/C parts 01 Paddle 17 Motor 02 Pressure Wheel 18 Bench Stand 03 Bobbin Re-winder 19 Treadle 04 Thread Stand 20 Balance Wheel 05 Feed Wheel 21 Throat Plate 06 knee-press 22 Paddle Stand 07 Arm 23 Stitch Regulator 08 Bench top 24 Head Roller 09 Head 25 Head Roller 10 Tension 26 Power switch 11 Needle Bar 27 Light 12 Deep Oil 28 Thread Guides 13 Back Stitch 29 Face Plate 14 Thread stand 30 Poole Cover 15 Take up lever 31 Transmission 16 Work Guide 32 Drip tray Classification of Needle Mainly two types of needle LR Needle PCL Needle Parts of the Needle and their Function 1. Butt 2. Shank 3. Shoulder 4. Blade/Shaft 5. Long Groove 6. Front/Short groove 7. Point 8. Clearance cut 9. Eye Page 10 of 22

11 Different part of a shoe 1. Vamp 2. Quarter 3. Counter 4. Collar 5. Back tap 6. Eyelet 7. Plug 8. Tung Some faults of sewing section Slip the stitch Causes: Needle not fully into the needle bar. Needle twisted around. Needles bend. Machine out of time. Machine not threaded correctly. Correction: Remove and reinsert the needle. Untwist the needle. Replace the needle. Re-time the machine. Re-thread the machine. Bottom thread broken. Causes: Burr on bobbin tension spring. Coarse throat plate. Bobbin over spinning. Correction: Replace bobbin tension spring. Smooth out throat plate. Re-thread bobbin into bobbin case. Top thread too tight. Causes: Bobbin tension too loose. Top tension too tight. Machine not threaded correctly. Top thread being caught. Correction: Tighten bobbin tension. Undo top tension. Re-thread the machine. Take away thread obstruction. Bobbin thread too tight: Causes: Top tension too loose, Bottom tension too tight, Bottom threads being caught. Page 11 of 22

12 Correction: Tighter top tension, Undo bottom tension, Clear away thread obstruction. Top Thread broken Causes: Burred needle Bent needle Course tension discs Course groove in a thread guide Burr on hook Correction What is Skiving? Replace the needle. Replace the needle. Smooth or replace the tension disc. Smooth out thread guides. Smooth out hook. It is a procedure of reduce leather edge thickness. Types of skiving 1. Raw edge skive 2. Underlay skive 3. Fold edge Different part of a Skiving machine 1. Tension hook 2. Sharp stone 3. Guide 4. Pressure foot 5. Pressure foot height adjusting screw and locking nut 6. Pressure foot height adjusting screw 7. Materials release lever 8. Knife adjusting lever 9. Arm 10. Bed 11. Belt cover 12. Feed belts 13. Knife driven belt 14. Sharping stone belt 15. Hand wheel 16. Knife 17. Feed roller 18. Waste slide tray Page 12 of 22

13 Operating procedure of a Skiving machine Turn on the machine Make sure the sharpening stone is not touching the knife Check that the pressure foot is not touching the feed roller Check that the knife is not touching the feed roller Position the guide Depress the treadle. Stock your work on the bench top to the left of the machine. Feed in the leather with the grain side up. Keep the leather to the guide. Run straight through. Place the skived place of leather upside down on the machine bed Pick up the next piece and skive as before When you have completed all pieces remove the pressure from the treadle to stop the machine Remove the pressure from the treadle to stop the machine. Inspect, stack and tie up your work What is Insole Insole The inner part of a shoe in bottom portion. An extra strip of material put inside a shoe for comfort or protection. Also called innersole. A thickness of material lay as an inner part within a shoe. In reality an insole is the foundation of the shoe. In a finished shoe insole is usually to take up moisture in the form perspiration from the foot. Insole is for- Comfort Protection from outside substances Absorb ability of moisture Perspiration of the feet Ideal properties of insole To absorb moisture readily and dry quickly. Sufficiently durability to withstand friction from the foot. Flexibility. Firm enough not to spread in manufacture or in wear. Uniformity of substance. Light weight. The ability to take an adhesive, tacks or stitch. Type of Insole Blended insole with skeleton Blended insole-cellulose back part-bontex forepart. Latex bounded insole with laid on cellulose back part. Half insole cellulose sandwich. Covered insole (for casual sandal) Page 13 of 22

Bound insole for sling-back, peep-toe open fashion sandal. Ribbed insole.

Flexon-42/62(Thermo plastic sheet). Steel Shank. Pattern. Adhesive. Thinner. Cutting Knife.

Purpose of cutting There are lots of insole are made in insole department including various sizes.

14 Bound insole for sling-back, peep-toe open fashion sandal. Ribbed insole. Full insole with shank Materials Used in Insole Department: Cellulose Board. (Texon and Bontex). Shank Board. Leather Board. Laminated leather paper. Flexon-42/62(Thermo plastic sheet). Steel Shank. Pattern. Adhesive. Thinner. Cutting Knife. Gum-tape, stamp-pad, polythene, talcum powder without fragrance etc. Purpose of cutting There are lots of insole are made in insole department including various sizes. These cut marks are used to identify the size of insole. Size marks are divided into two steps. 1. For Insole 2. For Counter+ Toe puff. Machineries of Insole Department: Sl. No. Name Portrait view 1 Travelling Head Cutting Machine. Insole cutting Counter cutting Toe-puff and Strong cutting 2 Shank Board Skiving Machine 3 Counter Skiving Machine 4 Toe-puff Skiving Machine 5 Roughening Machine Page 14 of 22

15 6 Counter Moulding Machine 7 Insole moulding machine 8 Drilling Machine 9 Riveting Machine 10 Trimming(Bevelling) Machine 11 Pasting Machine 12 Conveyor and heat setter Page 15 of 22

16 Quality Check for Insole Taxon Board: Knife matched with pattern, if OK then cutting started Whether any part of the Insole get cut because of knife Whether glue attachment is done according to the size of the shank board Counter: Knife matched with pattern, if OK then cutting started Whether any part of the Insole get cut because of knife Shank Board: Shank board straightness check (When pasting with texon) Pattern wise check ( size) Skiving- for full Insole 25 to 35mm but for half Insole 25 to 40mm Accuracy of roughing Others Checking: Existence of glue on the Ritz Texon moulding check according to last size Trimming of extra part of shank board and whether texon is get cut Toe Puff: Standard Skiving is done or not ( 10mm from upper part of the toe puff) Counter Moulding: Standard Skiving is maintained or not ( 10mm-15mm) Distance of the length of the two side is accurate or not Thickness checking after roughing After moulding these things must be checked, Burning part must be checked Checking of wrinkle existence Timing checking of machine (Article wise) Burning density is reduced Outsole Outsole is the part of the shoe which is directly connected with the ground. It protects our feet from various types of hazards. Various types of material are used to make outsole. The outsole may comprise a single piece or may be an assemble of separate pieces of different materials. Types of outsole: 1. Rubber soles. 2. Leather soles. 3. Synthetic materials sole. 4. Recycled materials sole. Page 16 of 22

17 Materials used in outsole: 1. TPR (Thermoplastic Rubber). 2. PU (Poly Urethane). 3. PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride).s 4. EVA (Ethyl Vinyl Acetate). Required Materials used for making outsole: TPR Welt Silicon spray Masking tape Gum tape Cotton hand Gloves Jute Colour Hair brush Wax Primer (503,turmo natural) Machineries used in outsole department: Sl. No. Name Portrait view 2 Injection moulding machine Hydraulic machine Pneumatic machine 3 Water chillier 4 Spray booth 5 Brushing m/c Moulding section: 01.Pre-heating machine: It is an electric motor driven machine used to heat the TPR granules to remove moisture before using them into injection moulding m/c. Outsole department has two pre-heating m/c. Each can pre-heat 40 kg TPR within 5-7 min. Page 17 of 22

18 02. Injection moulding machine: It is the most vital m/c of outsole department. Generally there are two types of injection moulding machine. (a) Hydraulic machine: This kind of m/c used liquid pressure to make the upper mould down on the lower part of mould. The major advantage of this m/c is that liquid pressure is equally distributed over a specific area. (b) Pneumatic machine: This kind of m/c uses compressed air pressure over mould. 03. Water chillier: It is an electric motor driven machine used for cooling purpose. Every injection moulding machine has single water chillier. Spray section: 01. Spray booth: After the hard brush and priming operation is done the sole are stacked by hand, placed on a small spray booth and compelled in to a position. A spray gun fed from a can is used by the operator to coat the sole edge a special solvent base color emulsion finish. The edges are well coated and finished dries approximately minute very clean and satisfactory result is still not achieved. 02. Brushing m/c: In a brushing /c there are two types of brushes used. One is hard brush and the other is soft brush. Hard brush is used to remove the scratches of the unfinished outsole. Whereas the soft brush is used to increase or improve the shininess of the outsole. Sole Colouring & Finishing: The colour is used to have final appearance of the sole is instructed in sole technical sheet. For different operation we use different types of colour. Here we use solvent based colour. According to buyer s instruction generally we do some operations to finish sole colouring. Side and Heel brush Sole Wash Applying Base Colour Decoration Colour Side Colour Final Colour Hard Brush Soft Brush Heel Decoration What is lasting? Lasting Lasting is a process in which complete shoe upper is attached with insole and out sole through design last or standard last. Lasting is a process in shoe making. Under lasting we attach the upper on the standard last varying in sizes undergoing going processes like attaching the insole, lacing and heating etc. Basic style of shoe 1) Derby, 2) Oxford, 3)Moccasin, 4)Court, 5)Sandle, 6)Sport, 7)Boot Page 18 of 22

Last A last is a form in the approximate shape of a human foot, used by shoemakers in the manufacture and repair of shoes.

The solid form around which a shoe is molded A "Last" is a wood, plastic or metal model of the foot on which shoes are constructed.

molded The shoe last must represent the anatomical information of the foot, at the same time giving the finished shoe a pleasing and fashionable appearance.

19 Last A last is a form in the approximate shape of a human foot, used by shoemakers in the manufacture and repair of shoes. Lasts typically made from many materials, including hardwoods, cast iron, and high density plastics. The solid form around which a shoe is molded A "Last" is a wood, plastic or metal model of the foot on which shoes are constructed. The shape of the last affects the width, length and fit of the shoe A shoe last is a solid form in the approximate shape of a human foot from which a shoe is molded The shoe last must represent the anatomical information of the foot, at the same time giving the finished shoe a pleasing and fashionable appearance. Required Material for lasting section Upper, Sole, Insole, Midsole, Shank, Heel, Last, Stiffener, Toe cap Types of lasting machine Sl. No. Name Portrait view 1 Toe & Forepart lasting machine. 2 Seat & side lasting machine 3 Back part moulding machine 4 Heat setting machine Page 19 of 22

20 5 Roughing machine 6 Scouring machine 7 Iron machine 8 Sole press machine 9 Conditioning machine 10 Heal pounding Machine 11 Heat setting machine Page 20 of 22

12 Brushing and polishing machine 13 Hot air blower machine 14 Heavy hammering machine 15 Sole stitching machine 16 Spraying machine 17 De-lasting machine

roughening Poor sole adhesion Rocking at shoe Incorrect toe spring Socks not covering insole correctly Outsole folding Impression at shoe due to improper in

21 12 Brushing and polishing machine 13 Hot air blower machine 14 Heavy hammering machine 15 Sole stitching machine 16 Spraying machine 17 De-lasting machine Major fault in shoe lasting Back seam crooked Back height uneven 1 mm Wrong back height Wrinkle at shoe Wrinkle at lining Poor shoe adhesion Improper roughening Poor sole adhesion Rocking at shoe Incorrect toe spring Socks not covering insole correctly Outsole folding Impression at shoe due to improper in counter and toe puff Any torn by mishandling Packing mistake Damage inner box Critical fault in shoe lasting Nail hidden in a pair Broken needle hidden in a shoe Page 21 of 22

22 Minor fault in shoe lasting Small gap in upper and out sole Uncut thread Marking spot Back height uneven up to 1 mm Slight color shade in a pair Common mistakes in lasting Too much lasting margin Lining not shorter than upper Vamp not matching pair wise Back seam crooked Insufficient lasting margin at waist or inside Counter and toe puff not consistent in stiffness. Wrinkle at toe Too many pleats at toe after lasting Lining wrinkle Page 22 of 22

UNIT 5 LAYOUT ON CORRECTED GRAIN LEATHER

UNIT 5 LAYOUT ON CORRECTED GRAIN LEATHER Layout on Corrected Grain Leather Structure 5.1 Introduction Objectives 5.2 Quality Region of H/S 5.3 Allowance on Components 5.4 Nesting of Derby 5.4.1 Nesting