Width Set 1 (A) Set 2 (B) Set 3 (A) Set 4 (B) Set 5 (A) Set 6 (B) Set 7 (A) Row 13 3/4" /8"

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Follow the chart below when piecing the strips. The numbers in the vertical columns under each set are the fabric numbers and correspond to the chart on page 2. Row Width Set 1 (A) Set 2 (B) Set 3 (A) Set 4 (B) Set 5 (A) Set 6 (B) Set 7 (A) of Strips 8" 9" 12" 14" 20" 30" 16" 1 3/4" 8 1 8 1 8 1 8 2 7/8" 1 7 1 7 1 7 1 3 1 1 /4" 8 1 6 1 6 1 6 4 1 1 /2" 1 7 1 5 1 5 1 5 2 1 /4" 8 1 6 1 4 1 4 6 3 1 /2" 1 7 1 5 1 3 1 7 3 1 /2" 8 1 6 1 4 1 2 8 3 1 /2" 1 7 1 5 1 3 1 9 2 1 /4" 8 1 6 1 4 1 4 10 1 1 /2" 1 7 1 5 1 5 1 11 1 1 /4" 8 1 6 1 6 1 6 12 7/8" 1 7 1 7 1 7 1 13 3/4" 8 1 8 1 8 1 8 When piecing Group A s together, ALWAYS press all seams toward row 13, the bottom. When piecing Group B s together, ALWAYS press all seams toward row 1, the top. When all seven strip sets are sewn together, cut each strip set according to the chart below. For Sets 1 through 6 only, you will need 8 cut strip segments each. For Strip Set 7, only 4 are needed. Set 1 Set 2 Set 3 Set 4 Set 5 Set 6 Set 7 Strip Lengths 8" 9" 12" 14" 20" 30" 16" Sub-Divide: Cut 3/4" 7/8" 1 1 /4" 1 1 /2" 2 1 /4" 3 1 /2" 3 1 /2" Divisions Needed 8 8 8 8 8 8 4 3

DaVinci Bed Runner Pattern & Color Notes This diagram may help you visualize how the block is constructed in conjunction with the first chart on Page 3 of the pattern. Blue numbers indicate the fabric number. The black, unmarked boxes are all Fabric 1. Patches marked with a green dot are Fabric 7; those marked with a red dot are Fabric 8. The darkest fabrics are towards the outside edges of the block; the center square is the lightest fabric. The strip set numbers are noted at the bottom of the diagram. 6 6 6 6 6 5 5 5 5 6 4 4 4 6 5 3 3 5 6 4 2 4 6 5 3 3 5 6 4 4 4 5 5 5 5 6 6 6 6 6 12 3 4 5 6 7 6 5 4 3 21 Strip Sets 6 Fabric 1 Red Teal Neutral Fabric 2 Fabric 3 Fabric 4 Fabric 5 Fabric 6 Fabric 7 Fabric 8 r092012

DaVinci Bed Runner Pattern Notes The DaVinci Bed Runner is offered in multiple colorways (teal shown here) with two border options, a solid and a border print. To complete the Bed Runner with your choice of border, follow the Da Vinci quilt pattern, making the changes noted below. In both versions, sew the four blocks together as shown right, rather than as shown in Figure 3 in the pattern. Solid Border Option If you purchased a kit, the fabrics for the border are packaged separately from the fabrics for the blocks. Use these pieces when cutting the borders Solid Border bed runner finishes 37" x 88¾". Border Print version will vary slightly based on width of stripes. below. Please note that all the border pieces are cut over-sized and are trimmed to fit in the Bordering the Quilt step of the pattern. Cutting Directions, Fabric #1: Disregard the first paragraph of cutting instructions and instead follow the instructions here. For the outer (wide) border, cut five lengthwise strips each measuring 6¾" x 54". Cut one of the strips in half lengthwise to make the side borders. Sew the remaining strips together in pairs, end to end, to make long top and bottom borders. For the inner (narrow) border, cut four strips measuring 2¾" x 40" and two strips measuring 2¾" x 27". Sew two of the longer strips together end-to-end to make the top and bottom borders. Cutting Directions, Fabric #6: Disregard the first cutting instruction. Instead, from the accent fabric included in the border package, cut three pieces measuring 1 7 /8" x the length of fabric (approximately 81"). Cut one of the strips in half cross-wise to create two strips for the side borders. Border Print Option Cutting Directions, Fabric #1: Disregard the first paragraph of cutting instructions. Instead, from the Fabric 1 included in the border package, cut three pieces measuring 1 7 /8"x the length of fabric (approximately 81"). Cut one of the strips in half cross-wise to create two strips for the side borders. Cutting Directions, Fabric #6: Disregard the first cutting instruction. Border Print Fabric. Separate the wide and narrow design stripes by cutting through the center of the seam allowance areas between the stripes. For the red border print fabric, this is dark stripe between the two design stripes. For the fabric used for the teal and neutral colorways, the seam allowance fabric has a printed design as shown in the illustration. Bordering the Quilt. Disregard the instructions in the DaVinci pattern and instead follow the instructions for Framing a Rectangular Quilt and Applying Multiple Borders in Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way. For a video demonstration of the technique, visit www.jinnybeyer.com/bordertips. Wide Wide Stripe Stripe Seam Allowance Narrow Stripe 092012

Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way Jinny Beyer s border prints are designed specifically with the quilter in mind. Each fabric has a wide and a narrow stripe which coordinate in both design and color. Both stripes have mirror-image motifs which are essential for perfectly mitered corners. In addition, the two different stripes in the border print are separated by at least a half-inch so that a 1/4" seam allowance is provided for on both sides of the stripes. From selvage to selvage, there are always at least four repeats of each stripe across the fabric so calculating the yardage needed to border a quilt is easy: you need the length of the longest side of the quilt plus an additional half-yard to match design elements and allow for the miters at the corners. Framing a Square Quilt 1. Place a strip of the border print across the middle of the quilt, centering a motif from the border at the exact center of the quilt. (Because of minor differences in seam allowances taken and stretching that can occur on bias edges, opposite edges of a quilt often measure slightly differently. Using a measurement taken from the middle of the quilt will help keep the quilt from ruffling at the edges.) 2. To mark the first miter, position a right-angle triangle so that one of the sides of the right angle runs along the bottom edge of the border print. Then carefully move the triangle until the angled side touches the point where the top edge of the border print meets the edge of the quilt. (See arrow in Diagram 1.) Mark, then cut the miter line. (Because the miter is cut right at the edge of the quilt, the seam allowance is already included.) Diagram 1: Mark the miter. 3. Carefully pick up the mitered side of the border strip and lay it on top of the strip on the opposite side of the quilt, right-sides together, placing the top edge of the strip at the edge of the quilt. If necessary, adjust the top strip so that the design motifs on the top and bottom match exactly. If you have centered a motif from the border print in the middle of the quilt, the designs should match at the edges. Cut the second miter. (Using the cut edge as a guide, rather than the triangle, ensures that your design motifs will be an exact match.) 4. Using this first mitered strip as a guide, cut three more identical pieces, making sure that the design on the border print is exactly the same on all four pieces. Diagram 2: Cut three pieces identical to the first. 5. Mark seam intersection dots on the short side of each of your border strips. To find the spot, simply draw a short line 1/4-inch inside the mitered edge and the short edge of the border strip. Mark the dot where the two lines intersect. Do the same for each corner of your quilt. 6. To sew the borders to the quilt, pin the mid-point of one of the border pieces to the middle of one of the edges of the quilt. Next, match and pin the dots on each side of your border with the dots on the quilt corners. Continue pinning the border to the quilt, easing in any fullness. (The edge of the quilt is usually a little wider than the center because of bias edges or seams.) Sew the border to the quilt, starting and stopping at the dots. Sew the mitered seams last, starting from the inside dot. When pinning the edges together, be sure to match the design elements on both pieces. Diagram 3: Correctly cut and sewn borders will have designs that flow around the corners. 1 2010, Jinny Beyer

Framing a Rectangular Quilt With rectangles, you cannot always be assured that the designs will automatically match at the corners so you must take an extra step. 1. First, follow steps 1-3 above and cut two identical strips for the short ends of the quilt. The pieces for the other two sides of the quilt must be cut differently: for the corners on all pieces to match, there must be a seam in these long pieces at the exact center of the quilt. 2. Place one of the cut strips on top of a length of the border print stripe, matching the fabric designs. Cut one miter to match the miter on the top strip. Set the top strip aside. Lay the newly cut strip on top of the quilt through the center, aligning one mitered edge with the edge of the quilt. Mark the center of the quilt on the strip as in Diagram 4. Move the strip from the quilt and cut it off ¼" beyond the center mark. Using this cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece identical to it. You also need two strips that are the exact mirror images of these pieces. Using one of the strips you just cut, flip it over and lay it on a strip of border print, matching the fabric design exactly. (The two strips will be right Diagram 4: Find and mark the center of the quilt on the border strip. sides together.) Cut the miter and straight edges to match the top piece. Using the newly cut strip as a guide, cut one more piece. g Diagram 5: The long borders on rectangular quilts have center seams. 3. Sew the seams at the middle of two mirror-imaged strips and attach these borders to the quilt as in Steps 5 and 6 in Framing a Square Quilt. Sewing the borders to a rectangular quilt in this manner assures that the corners will match. There will be a seam at the center of the long strips (Diagram 5), but the design at that center will mirror-image as well, allowing the design to flow around the quilt. Applying Multiple Borders Jinny often designs quilts to make full use of the border prints. First, she will frame the quilt with the narrow border stripe, then add a coordinating fabric as a second border. The quilt is finished off with the wide stripe from the border print. Jinny personally measures and adds each border separately. However, when the middle border is a fabric that doesn t have to be matched at the corners, she recommends the following method as being a little faster: Sew the second border to the first and then measure and cut them as a single border in the steps above. Measure, cut and sew the third border separately after the first two borders have been completed and sewn to the quilt. Binding the Quilt: When Jinny uses a border print to frame a quilt, she typically sews the binding to the back of the quilt and turns it to the front. This allows her to carefully hand-stitch the binding along a straight line printed on the border print fabric. For details, see www.jinnybeyer.com/binding. Diagram 6: Applying multiple borders Adding Borders the Jinny Beyer Way 2 2010, Jinny Beyer