How to Construct the 8-Point Star by Jay S. Helland

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Kerrie Bruce
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The process for constructing the 8-pt. star medallion is as follows: 1.

Cut and additional strip of wood for layout purposes. 2. Cut a 45 degree miter on the end of each strip of wood either on the table saw or miter box saw. 3.

1 How to Construct the 8-Point Star by Jay S. Helland The photos in these instructions were not taken in consequential order but provide the reader the general idea of the processed used. The process for constructing the 8-pt. star medallion is as follows: 1. Rip contrasting colored wood strips 3/8 to ½ wide by ¾ thick and about 12 to 24 in length (depends on how many stars you want to make). Cut and additional strip of wood for layout purposes. 2. Cut a 45 degree miter on the end of each strip of wood either on the table saw or miter box saw. 3. Layout: the 8 pt. star segments are parallelograms, so lay one of the other strips on top making sure the edges are flush with the miter cut. This is where the additional strip of wood the exact thickness is a huge help. (See Photo) 4. How to create the parallelogram segment. Scribe with a sharp pencil or knife the size of the segment, which is the width of the stock. Layout of Parallelogram Segment A pencil was used to highlight the knife scribed mark.

5. There are three ways to cut out the star segments. First method; rough cut on of the stars segments on the band saw and grind down to the layout line using the disc sander.

Lightly sand the band sawed surface before gluing. Trust me you can get a very suitable surface using a band saw. Using a disc sander, sand to the layout line.

2 5. There are three ways to cut out the star segments. First method; rough cut on of the stars segments on the band saw and grind down to the layout line using the disc sander. This method will require you to re-cut the 45 degree miter for each segment and repeat the layout. Second method uses a band saw miter gauge sled (see photo). Lightly sand the band sawed surface before gluing. Trust me you can get a very suitable surface using a band saw. Using a disc sander, sand to the layout line. Third method uses the table saw with a miter gauge sled. Set a stop block on the wooden fence so that the cutting process is repeatable. Band Saw Sled Table Saw Sled 6. Glue two of the segments together unit there are 4 pairs. After the glue sets up, glue the two pairs together to create two halves. You should always lightly sand any glue off the surfaces to keep flush for the next glue ups.

7. Infill Process: Now that you have an 8 point star you are ready to begin infilling with the contrasting colored wood.

Rough cut the wood on the band saw and then sand to the scribed line using your disc sander.

If the fit of the intersection is acceptable, glue the in-fill. I use rubber bands for the clamps.

8. Using a compass draw a circle on the glue up. Rough cut on the band saw to create the circle.

3 7. Infill Process: Now that you have an 8 point star you are ready to begin infilling with the contrasting colored wood. Lay the star on top of the wood to be used as the infill material and scribe the joint. Rough cut the wood on the band saw and then sand to the scribed line using your disc sander. Check the accuracy of the cut by back-lighting the piece checking for gaps. If the fit of the intersection is acceptable, glue the in-fill. I use rubber bands for the clamps. Repeat the process until all gaps are in-filled. Lightly sand as needed to keep both surfaces flat throughout the process. 8. Using a compass draw a circle on the glue up. Rough cut on the band saw to create the circle. You now have a segmented "hockey puck".. 9. Sand the top and bottom sides of the assembly on the disc sander. It s important to get the two faces parallel to each other. Use a veneer height gauge or at depth gauge to scribe the edge of the accessibly and then sand the face until it is parallel.

Hold the assembly by hand until the glue gets tacky enough that it won t get out of square while you place some spring clamps on the assembly. 11.

4 10. Using 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood, glue the plywood to both sides of the hockey puck (making a sandwich) being sure to keep the sides and edges square. I use a small square and the fence of my jointer or table saw to align it. Hold the assembly by hand until the glue gets tacky enough that it won t get out of square while you place some spring clamps on the assembly. 11. After the glue has dried, resaw on the band saw so that you have cut a 3/16" thick segmented inlay. 12. Smooth the band sawed face of the hockey puck on the disc sander keeping the two faces parallel. 13. Glue another piece of 1/8 Baltic birch plywood to the hockey puck making another sandwich and repeat steps 10 and It s possible to get 3 segmented inlays pieces out of one hockey puck. 15. Center the medallion on the long axis of the lathe (see photo) and then draw a circle on the wooden faceplate around the rough circumference making sure that there is a registration mark. Remove the faceplate from the lathe and place just a couple of 1/8" glue dots (CA or yellow/white glue) on the back of the medallion. Using the layout lines, center the star on the faceplate and clamp and let the glue dry for at least 45 minutes. Formatte color: Auto

16. Place the faceplate back on the lathe and with a parting tool or skew lathe chisel

Cutting from the face of the medallion to make it symmetrical will not create the shear

Make sure that the faceplate you are using has been faced off and is clean of debris. 17.

Sand off glue from the back of the medallion. 18.

5 16. Place the faceplate back on the lathe and with a parting tool or skew lathe chisel cut into the medallion from it face but not the side. Cutting from the face of the medallion to make it symmetrical will not create the shear stress that cutting from the edge. Make sure that the faceplate you are using has been faced off and is clean of debris. 17. Using a putty knife or 5 in 1 tool, separate the medallion from the face plate. Sand off glue from the back of the medallion. 18. Once you get the medallion round you're ready to cut the recess in the bottom to receive the medallion. The recess depth should be at least as deep as the thickness of the medallion. 19. Turn a mortise in the bowl bottom the exact same diameter of the medallion. 20. To center the medallion into the bottom of the bowl body, face off the bottom of the bowl body and then cut a mortise square to the bottom rim.

21. This photo illustrates how the bottom and

Clamping Technique Using Weights This is how

6 21. This photo illustrates how the bottom and the bowl match before gluing. The tenon has been turned to fit the mortise in the bottom of the bowl. Clamping Technique Using Weights This is how to registering the bowl bottom on the lathe before gluing it to the wooden faceplate.

7 Bowl ready for facing off the top rim before the top ring is glued to the bowl. More Medallion Designs to Consider Completed Project!

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