SAVAGE 116 long action Hi-cap mag tutorial. T.A.R MAG (Tactical Applications Rifle Mag)

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Clifford White
5 years ago
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as with the ones I have made there will also be a lot of fitting to

this is for a staggered feed detachable mag,long action, with the

I would guess the same could be done with a short action too.

first I bought a 6 x18 flat 16ga steel from the hardware store.

And a savage long action box and follower that I bought at Brownells.

1 SAVAGE 116 long action Hi-cap mag tutorial. T.A.R MAG (Tactical Applications Rifle Mag) This tutorial shows how I have made a hi-cap magazine for my Savage 116 long action. some things you will be doing are measuring grinding and welding. as with the ones I have made there will also be a lot of fitting to your rifles needs too. this is for a staggered feed detachable mag,long action, with the push button mag release on the right hand side of the gun. I would guess the same could be done with a short action too. so lets get started! first I bought a 6 x18 flat 16ga steel from the hardware store. A G3 magazine that we will be taking apart. And a savage long action box and follower that I bought at Brownells. cut off the front and back lips from the box and the two lips on the bottom of the box. after you cut those off hit the edges with a lil sand paper to make smooth. The mag box is ready to go, so lets move on to the steel. i would suggest sanding a little to make the measurement marks stay on better. So with a set of digital calipers we will measure the walls of the lower mag box.

2 the first is the front fold in the box and should be around.694 in mark all 6 of the steel top to bottom for now and make sure lines are straight and don t rub off. the first wall should be around in you can try these measurements,but you can see in the pics how I got them. the back spine of the mag measured.920 in but I found this was a lil to tight I would suggest maybe a.94 or even.950, I was getting internal binding with this mag at the.920 measurement. the next side should measure around in, don t make this side match the other side,this one is just a lil bit shorter the last one should be around.676 in and will overlap the first one, so now your steel should look like this.now you need to determine what capacity you want the finished mag to be. This one is a 20 rounder

and could really hold 24 or so but I only load 20 as to not

439 in and when I lay the mag box upper to the steel I m

And your gonna need guide lips at the bottom for the bottom

bottom of your mag. From that line measure up.

The middle spine and the two ends should be 4.618 in.

cut the dimensions out with an angle grinder but DO NOT cut

there are 5 walls of the mag and 4 folds to make.

3 and could really hold 24 or so but I only load 20 as to not over compress my spring and also lets me load a full mag into the gun with the bolt closed. so the factory 5 round mag I have top to bottom is in and when I lay the mag box upper to the steel I m coming down about in for my 20 rounder. And your gonna need guide lips at the bottom for the bottom plate. so at least.140 in and we will trim them later. so now measure from one edge around in (for the 20rnd) and mark it then that line is the bottom of your mag. From that line measure up.140 in for the bottom lip, but only on the two long sides. The middle spine and the two ends should be in. clamp the steel down its time to cut. cut the dimensions out with an angle grinder but DO NOT cut the other lines yet. there are 5 walls of the mag and 4 folds to make. To do these folds we are gonna cut almost half way thru the metal on the lines we have drawn on and at the front and back of both the long walls you need to cut all the way thru but just that lil.140 where the bottom guide lips are. Look close at the last two pics above.

Now when you go to cut the fold lines use

sand both sides with sand paper to clean

the straighter your lines are the better

4 Now when you go to cut the fold lines use the thinnest disc you can and then go back over about ¼ the way thru to make a beveled edge. sand both sides with sand paper to clean up a lil bit. the straighter your lines are the better your mag will look when finished so go slow here. So now we should be ready to fold the lower mag box. lock into a vice, hit it with some heat and bend the two outer edges first.the side with all your cuts is the inside of the mag don t fold it the wrong way.use a hammer and a block of wood to make the folds tight. fold the two long sides around again use some heat,wood and a hammer go slow and get it as straight and even as you can. Turn the mag over so the front fold is pointed up and line up the mag box upper. Tighten down with a clamp to hold the mag box lower closed to the right size. Now lets check to see if the follower will slide thru the mag box lower. if so then mark the bottom of the fold.

so now if the mag box upper and mag box lower line up well and

can t weld very well with it but its all I have here to use,

upper in place, I used some tape to hold in place while I got

I did the back first, then the front, then the sides.

case a lot. And we can get started on the bottom plate.

5 so now if the mag box upper and mag box lower line up well and the follower slides thru without catching or hanging up we are ready to weld. I m using a flux core welder and that really sucks because I can t weld very well with it but its all I have here to use, so pay lil attention to my welds. So with that said, here we go! tack the front in place then turn it over and line the mag box upper in place, I used some tape to hold in place while I got it started. I did the back first, then the front, then the sides. When you get that done go ahead and clean it up a lil or in my case a lot. And we can get started on the bottom plate. hit the bottom lips with some heat and fold them out, pliers should work fine. Now you should notice the front and back hang down after the lips are bent in place. Cut the front even with the sides now so only the back hangs down like in the middle pic above. sit the mag on the steel and mark the front, should be around in and needs to be a lil bigger foe the lips on the bottom plate, so I went in front to back and in side to side with.196 lips on the two long sides.

cut out the same as with the mag box ½ thru with a thin disc ¼ thru with a

bottom plate slides on and off but leave it a lil stiff.

this is what I used to hold my bottom plate on, I found quick that without it

So this was my quick fix. there is prolly a better way but this works fine.

longer, I didn t measure it but it should fit snug between the inner front

ok its getting close, the front needs to be cut to allow the bullets to feed

the gun, I marked with a sharpie and slid the mag into the gun a few times to

6 cut out the same as with the mag box ½ thru with a thin disc ¼ thru with a thick to make a bevel and heat and fold. Cut the lil pieces that stick out off. now go back and trim the bottom guide rails and the mag bottom down so the bottom plate slides on and off but leave it a lil stiff. now take the bottom retaining plate out of the G3 mag. this is what I used to hold my bottom plate on, I found quick that without it when I fired my gun the bottom plate would slide off a little bit every shot. So this was my quick fix. there is prolly a better way but this works fine.just weld a little bit of your left over steel onto the G3 plate to make it longer, I didn t measure it but it should fit snug between the inner front and back walls if the mag bottom. ok its getting close, the front needs to be cut to allow the bullets to feed out smooth I don t have a measurement for it I just tried to make it look like the factory mag. Then on the right hand side of the mag where its gonna catch and hold into the gun, I marked with a sharpie and slid the mag into the gun a few times to see where the catch was. When you find it make small cut at a time and go VERY SLOW here you want a tight fit, im not using the spring loaded catch on the left hand side for the spring loaded release its just not needed so make sure the right hand side catches tight. Now we need to make the spring and follower.

see how much of the spring is sticking out of the mag, that is the amount I

magazine and it worked great, springs that didn t work, the G3 spring an AR15

above is an ar15 mag spring attached to the follower, the saiga spring goes on

And the third pic,you ll need to drill a hole the size of the plunger from th

the finish I used is just some alumahyde II and cleaned with some TCE before

once the mag is together it took a lot of fitting to them to feed 20 rounds

make sure that on the inside of the mag you don t weld thru and create places

follower sit as even as it can or you will have problems.

7 I used a few 3.45 mm screws and a spring from a saiga 12ga magazine, in the third pic you can see how much of the spring is sticking out of the mag, that is the amount I found to work the best, I have also used the spring from a saiga 20 ga magazine and it worked great, springs that didn t work, the G3 spring an AR15 spring and an ak47 spring all DIDN T work for me! above is an ar15 mag spring attached to the follower, the saiga spring goes on the same way but I don t have a pic of it right now. And the third pic,you ll need to drill a hole the size of the plunger from th G3 mag so your bottom plate will lock in place. the finish I used is just some alumahyde II and cleaned with some TCE before applying the alumahydeii. makes a good durable finish. once the mag is together it took a lot of fitting to them to feed 20 rounds reliably every time. make sure that on the inside of the mag you don t weld thru and create places for the follower to catch and you will need to bend the spring so it lets the follower sit as even as it can or you will have problems.these mags are not easy to make and took some time and patience but they work great and are very worth it in the end. I have a youtube video of the T.A.R mag and how well and smooth it feeds. please ask questions on the savage shooters forum and I will try to get back to you. Thankx for lookin Jason Burnside

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