Viewing the Ryca Motors CS-1 Build Video series at youtube.com/rycamotors is highly recommended before beginning the following assembly process.

Transcription

1 RYCA CS-1 ASSEMBLY GUIDE [The CS-1 installation guides should be used as supplements to the videos found on our Youtube Channel. There is no strict order to the build process, but it is highly recommended that you read through all of the guides and watch all the videos before beginning your project. The Clymer manual for the Suzuki S40/Savage is also a good reference, and can be used in the future for service and maintenance. Another great resource is the Suzuki Savage forum.] Viewing the Ryca Motors CS-1 Build Video series at youtube.com/rycamotors is highly recommended before beginning the following assembly process. Drill a hole in the clip-ons for the tab on the throttle assembly and clutch control. Alternately, you can just file the tabs off. Note: Older style bikes don t have the tabs, they just clamp on, so no need to drill: Tighten the controls and install the grips: Attach the gauges to the brackets with the bend at the top of the brackets pointing down. Tighten the nuts on the back side of the gauges:

2 Use M10 x 65mm cap screws and M10 nylon flange locknuts to attach the gauge brackets to the triple trees. The brackets attach below the triple tree with the locknuts at the bottom: Thread the end of the speedometer cable onto the speedometer. You may want to remove the headlight first: The other end of the speedometer cable attaches at the transmission. Line up the slot, slide the cable down, and tighten the nut: You can route the cable however you like, just avoid any kinks. Use the M10 x 240mm cap screw and the M10 x 230mm cap screw along with the M10 acorn nuts to replace the stock upper and lower motor mount bolts (the motor mount cuts are covered in the frame cutting guide):

3 (The middle mount is used for the decompression lever and will be covered later.) Tighten the bolts to the recommended torque specs: Use the M10 x 190mm cap screw as a replacement for the stock motor mount bolt at the bottom rear of the engine. This bolt is also used to attach the sidestand mount: Remove the tab on the stock sidestand arm that previously activated the sidestand sensor. It s pressed in, not threaded. You can use a vise to twist it out, or just cut it off: Fit the stock sidestand in the sidestand mount and attach with the stock bolt and nut:

4 Tighten the nut. Screw an M8 x 50mm cap screw into the back side of the sidestand: With the kickstand in the closed position, attach the stock sidestand spring to the M8 x 50mm cap screw: Attach the sidestand mount to the bike frame with the M10 x 190mm cap screw and an M10 nylon flange locknut. Rotate the mount fully clockwise against the frame and then torque the locknut down very tightly to prevent it from rotating. The sidestand strap functions as a reinforcement for the sidestand mount. It attaches to the

5 sidestand mount via the M8 x 50mm cap screw and an M8 thin hex nut: The strap crosses under the motor and attaches to the frame tab on the other side with two M6 x 10mm cap screws and two M6 locknuts. Here s the fram tab: Attach the strap with the cap screws and locknuts:

6 Here s a shot of the sidestand side with the M8 thin hex nut on top: There are two spotwelds on the inside of the sidestand mount that keep the kickstand from fully opening and closing. By grinding or filing down the spot welds, you will be able to fine tune the angle of your sidestand. The picture below shows the spotwelds on an un-powdercoated piece: Adding the spotwelds in the manufacturing process is necessary to account for slight variations in the fitment of the sidestand mount from bike to bike. Grind or file the spotwelds until the

7 sidestand has the proper range of movement without hitting the drive belt, and the bike has a reasonable lean angle: Attach the rearset bracket to the frame at the points shown below using M8 x 50mm cap screws. The top cap screws thread into the stock motor mount bracket. Use M8 nylon locknuts on the bottom cap screws: Remove the white plastic indicator light housing from the stock speedometer assembly and label the lights:

8 Remove the plastic light lenses from the rubber gasket assembly: Insert the indicator lenses supplied with the kit into the holes of the tank indicator panel. The green lense can be used for the neutral light and the two clear lenses can be used for turn signals. Tighten them down with the lock washers and plastic hex nuts from below: Sandwich the rubber gasket between the tank plate and the plastic indicator housing. Use M6 locknuts on each side of the plastic housing tab to secure it to the threaded rod of the tank panel. You may need to slightly shave the end of the plastic piece for it to fit properly:

9 Note: if the plastic housing does not sit flat after tightening the locknuts on the left rod, you can use a washer and nut on the right rod to hold it into place. The keyswitch is held in place with the bottom threaded rod of the tank panel. The hole in the keyswitch must be drilled out slightly to fit over the threaded rod. Insert the keyswitch through the hole in the tank plate and tighten with two M6 locknuts. Note: the keyswitch is a tight fit by design. You may have to slightly sand the powdercoat for it to fit through the tank plate hole: (Extending the keyswitch wiring is covered in the Electrical / Wiring Guide.) Mount the ignition coil at the points shown below. Use the stock standoff and screw at the top. Use the M5 x 25mm machine screw and M5 nylon locknut at the bottom:

10 (Proper wiring of the ignition coil is covered in the Electrical / Wiring Guide.) Re-locate the battery ground wire so it will reach the terminal when the battery is in the battery box. You can use an engine bolt or the stock battery box mount (shown below). Make sure to sand the paint off for a good metal-to-metal contact. You can re-use one of the stock battery box mounting bolts: Use some double stick tape or velcro to attach the CDI unit to the left side of the battery box with the connector facing towards the rear:

11 Use the stock bolts and two M6 locknuts to mount the rectifier to the front of the battery box. Route the wiring and connectors through the hole at the top of the battery box. The starter solenoid mounts to the bottom of the battery box with M6 x 10mm cap screws and M6 locknuts: Apply the oil supplied with the air filter and attach it to the carb. Attach the throttle cable: Detach the shifter linkage arm and flip it around so the ball joint is facing outward. Re-install with the arm pointing down:

12 Assemble the rearsets: The angle of the rearsets is adjustable by inserting the pin in different holes around the circumference of the lever arm. The longer mounting bolt goes through the right rearset and can double as a muffler mounting point (more on that later). Thread an M6 nut on one end of the shifter rod followed by a clevis rod end:

13 Thread the other end of the shifter rod into the shifter ball joint (use an M6 nut on this end also): Attach the left rearset to the rearset bracket with the nylon lock nut supplied with the rearsets. Do not overtighten! The rearset must pivot freely: Attach the clevis rod end to the rearset with a pin and an E-clip:

14 Install the right rearset. Again, do not overtighten the nylon locknut. Install the same M6 nut / clevis combination on the short end of the brake rod. Thread an M6 nut on the other end of the brake rod. Attach the brake rod to the brake lever arm as shown below. Don t forget the spring: Take up as much slack in the brake lever arm as possible by winding it counter-clockwise before attaching the brake rod to the rearset. Attach the clevis rod end to the rearset with a pin, but don t install the E-clip yet. Here s a view from above: Flatten the stock brake light mounting tab as shown below:

15 Attach the tab to the swingarm via the passenger footpeg hole. Use an M6 x 40mm cap screw and M8 washer through the backside of the swingarm: Route the brake light cable through the loop of the tab and then attach the end to the pin of the rearset clevis, and secure with the E-clip:

16 Once the brake light has been tested, the tab of the brake light mount can be clamped down on the cable. The bolt at the top of the engine (shown below) can optionally be cut off. Add some RTV to keep it from rattling after it s cut: Mark and cut the end of the header pipe 1 inch from the base: Clean up the edges with a file or sandpaper and slide the short end of the exhaust adapter onto the header pipe. The muffler attaches to the long end of the adapter. It s a tight fit to prevent exhaust leaks:

17 Install the header pipe and tighten the bolts hand tight. Adjust the angle of the adapter, and then slide the muffler on (use both exhaust clamps included in the kit -- one tightens the adapter to the header pipe and the other tightens the muffler to the adapter): The bracket of the muffler can be attached to the right rearset mounting bolt. If it doesn t quite reach the bolt, you can notch it a little: Attach the muffler bracket to the rearset bolt with an M8 nylon locknut. Once everything is in place, you can tighten the header bolts and both muffler clamps. On the stock shift lever, drill out the rivet that holds the original linkage in place with a ¼ drill bit:

18 Use the template printed on the hardware parts list to mark and drill a second hole in the shifter lever for the decompression spring. The position of the hole does not have to be extremely precise: Using a vice or pliers to press the sleeve bearing into the shaft of the shift lever:

19 Attach the shift lever via the unused hole in the left side of the frame (between the top and bottom motor mounts) with an M10 x 90mm cap screw and M10 nylon flange nut: Place an M6 nut and M6 clevis rod end on the end of decompression rod 1. Attach the rod to the shift lever (top hole) with a pin and E-clip: Attach decompression rod 2 to the decompression mechanism on the engine with an M6 nut, clevis rod end, pin, and E-clip. On the other end, thread on an M6 nut and the M6 ball joint:

20 Connect decompression rod 1 and decompression rod 2 with an M6 nut and M6 coupling nut: Attach the extension spring between the top motor mount and the bottom hole of the shift lever (shown here without the linkage installed):

21 Using the decompression lever makes start up easier and reduces the strain on the starter motor. Adjust the decompression lever so that the exhaust valves are cracked open slightly upon depressing the lever. Make sure there is no tension on the exhaust valves when the lever is not in use. When starting, depress the lever for a brief moment while holding the start button. You can fine tune the decompression lever while the engine is running, making sure the lever is not affecting the exhaust valves while not in use. The decompression lever can also be used as a killswitch. Or a conversation topic at bike night. Press the rubber edge trim around the lip of the cavity in the tank, and cut off the excess: Install the indicator panel assembly in the tank. Use M6 locknuts to secure it from below. Do not overtighten the nuts!

22 The tank fits very low on the frame after modding, and it s recommended to install the fuel valve AFTER you have fitted the tank. If there is a clearance issue with the fuel valve, you can replace one of the screws on the fuel valve with the M4 x 10mm button head cap screw included in the kit.