Building Instructions v RH Servo for F3P

Transcription

1 RH Servo for F3P Specifications Digital servo board with ceramic resonator oscillator Lightweight.0 g (when lightened as shown) Standard voltage range (Emax base).7 V 4. V Deadband.0 us (1 us for tail surfaces on request) Input signal range us Voltage and temperature effect on centering < 0.5 Degrees under all conditions Materials needed Preprogrammed and tested servo board with ceramic resonator assembled.5 g servo such as Emax ES951 or Spektrum A 010 for base o Emax is faster and stronger at low voltages but does not tolerate > 4. V for long periods o Spektrum can be used with up to 6 V voltage and has nicer body o These two share the same gear train, dimensions and potentiometer Dynamo wire for wiring (0.1 mm for signal, 0.15 mm for (+) and 0./0.5 mm for GND) Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 1/8

2 Tools needed Narrow side cutters for electronics Miniature vice or alligator clips for holding the board Soldering station with narrow tip Small tweezers Needle files Solder wick and thin solder wire for electronics Gel solder flux in a tube is also very handy and makes achieving nice solder joints easier Magnifier or stereo microscope depending on your eye sight Disassembling and lightening the base servo Step 1 remove shrink tubing and stickers, then open the bottom Step Desolder the original servo board Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com /8

3 Step 3 Cut the plastic edge off down to the potentiometer surface See the images below for detailed steps. Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 3/8

4 Step 4 Desolder the potentiometer wires and cut off the rest of the unnecessary plastic Note: Be careful when cutting the plastic nearby the potentiometer terminals. We don t want them cut accidentally! The lightened base servo looks like this after finalizing the edges with needle file. Tip: Roughen the glue surfaces for mounting in the model in the same time. I have left the mounting tabs in place but they can be removed later if desired depending on the mounting method. Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 4/8

5 Final assembly Step 5 Cut 3 0 mm long wires for potentiometer wiring and tin the tips I use 0.5 mm lacquered dynamo wire but 0. mm should be sufficient. Step 6 Solder the wires to potentiometer terminals and bend The Z-shaped ends are mm (part that solders on the PCB) by mm (height from PCB). Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 5/8

6 Step 7 Solder the motor wires and potentiometer wires Pay attention to the motor polarity. The red wire must be like this on Emax and Spektrum bases. Using a small vice to hold the board while soldering the pot wires makes it much easier! You can hold the servo by hand and accurately steer the wires one by one to the PCB solder joints. Some gel flux helps here too. Apply a little to the PCB on top of the solder spots and then solder the wires on. Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 6/8

7 Step 8 Test the servo Before removing the original servo wire, it is a good idea to test the servo with a servo tester or a receiver. If the servo works as expected, center it for installing to the model. If not, check the following details: Inspect all the solder joints, especially the potentiometer connections If the servo just runs around without stopping, check the motor polarity If the servo does not run at all, check for tin bridges or other possible causes for short circuit If there are no shorts, check that the motor wires are not accidentally cut. You can measure the resistance between motor terminals with a multimeter. The result should be between 8 and 5 ohms depending on the original servo (Emax motor has lower resistance than the Spektrum). Step 9 Remove the original wire and solder dynamo wires Carefully desolder the original servo wire and then remove possible glue/gum residue from the PCB. It comes off quite easily when the board is still warm. Clean the solder joints with solder wick and apply new tin before adding the dynamo wires. I use the thickest wire for GND since the signal always refers to GND. For plus wire 0.15 mm is sufficient and the signal wire can be as thin as you can handle. I have used 0.09 mm for it. Left GND, middle - (+), right - signal Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 7/8

8 Final note Before assembling the servo the the model, please remember that the servo body is held together by friction only. Thus, depending on how you are mounting the servo, it may be a good idea to secure the servo body by adding a piece of tape to both sides. Risto Hölttä & PayPal: RH_design@outlook.com 8/8