Example of existing Art Deco bags.

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1 Name:...

2 Example of existing Art Deco bags.

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4 **Remember** You are designing an Art Deco fashion bag think about relevant annotation and detail. No Preliminary Material or any associated material may be taken into the exam. Learn you design and annotation before you go into your exam. Colours to be used and textures of fabrics Components and fabrics used Close-up sections of details Style and shape of details, eg. Handles, basic bag shape Sizes and dimensions

5 Front and back views and other views if appropriate Components and fabrics used Suitability to the customer / user Source of the Art Deco design Use of sustainable materials Names of decorative techniques Purpose / function of design. How will it be used and by whom? How does the product meets the specification

6 Task: using your knowledge, revision book, text books and the internet find the definitions to the following key words: Make sure you understand what all the key words and definitions mean this will help when answering the exam questions. Product Analysis Target Market Disassembly Marketability Trend Forecast Task: Product Analysis Get your favourite t-shirt and analyse it focusing on; material, components, fit for purpose You must explain why all these points are important for the end use of the product. E.G materials cotton -lightweight, soft, durable, easy care. Components Fit for purpose Materials

7 Spring/ summer 2011 How does trend forecasts inform and aid designers? How can ICT/CAD be used to help with research and predicted trends? Using one of the trend forecast boards, design an outfit which will fit with the predicted trends.

8 Surface decoration Dyeing and printing techniques are not the only ways to add colour and pattern onto fabric. Task: using the internet find an example of each technique on a textile product. Give a very brief description of how the techniques are applied and give an advantage and disadvantage for each. Hand embroidery Method: Machine embroidery Method: Advantage Disadvantage Advantage Disadvantage Appliqué Method: Beading/ sequins Method: Advantage Disadvantage Advantage Disadvantage Screen printing Method: Block printing Method: Advantage Disadvantage Advantage Disadvantage

9 Patchwork Method: Silk painting Method: Advantage Disadvantage Advantage Disadvantage Textured effect : Distressed (brushing, shredding, fraying, stone washing) Method: Advantage Disadvantage Manipulation of fabric Fabric can be manipulated for fit and shape but also to add a decorative look to the product. Task: find examples of the following manipulation techniques used as decoration Pleating Darts Gathers Heat setting

10 There might be a 'process' question in this section it could be about anything e.g. a decorative process (see appliqué instructions on the left), or it could be about how to do a particular type of seam, or how to hem the bottom of a pair of trousers. TIP: If you are asked to name a decorative technique and describe how to do it, appliqué is a good one to choose as it has a lot of clear steps you can easily

11 Task: Write out the process for machine embroidery don t forget the embroidery hoop and stitch and tear backing. Write out the process for tie dye - don t forget to wash the fabric first!! **Hint** Sketches will help you visualise the correct order!

12 Finishes can be applied to fibres, yarns, fabrics or completed product. The finishes can be either chemical or physical. Finishes are used to improve the way the fabric; The look The feel The wear Physical Finishes Brushing raises the fibres when the fabric is passed between a series of wire rollers which brush the fabric forming a pile. This gives a soft and fluffy surface to the fabric. Possible application: Fleece, bedding Fabrics it can be applied to: Cotton, wool, polyester, and polyamide Calendering is the opposite of brushing. Fabrics are passes between heated rollers which give a smooth finish to the fabrics Fabrics it can be applied to: cotton, wool Chemical Finishes Waterproofing- silicones are applied to the fabric by spraying or impregnation. This forms a barrier to prevent water droplets from soaking into the fabric. Stain resistance finish works in similar way. Possible application: umbrellas, tents, waterproofs Fabrics it can be applied to: All fabrics Flame proofing chemicals are applied to the yarns or fabric which slow down or prevents burning. The fabric will be stiffer. Possible application: furnishings Fabrics it can be applied to: cotton, linen, rayon Mercerizing Cotton is place in sodium hydroxide solution. This makes the fibres swell, become more absorbent, and shiny. Possible application: clothing dresses, shirts Fabrics it can be applied to: cotton Easy care chemicals are applied to fabrics to make them easier to wash, dry and iron. They crease less and do not shrink. Possible application: easy care suit Fabrics it can be applied to: Cotton and viscose Question: Describe what finishes would be most suitable for the following products:

13 ACROSS 4. This is another name for a physical finish and is the first of two methods of applying a finish 5. mechanical finish - a relief print pressed into a fabric changing its surface texture as well as giving it a patterned appearance. 6. Chemicals are applied to the yarn or fabric. This prevents the fabric from easily igniting. DOWN 1. This is a method of applying a finish 2. mechanical finish - raises the fibres when the fabric is passed between a series of wire rollers 3. mechanical finish - it is the opposite to brushing. Fabrics are passes between heated rollers which give a smooth finish to the fabric

14 Quality of design refers to how attractive a product is to its target market, how well chosen its materials and components are, and how easy the product is to manufacture and maintain. Quality of manufacture has a more specific meaning. Well-made textile products (ones with a high quality of manufacture) will have the following characteristics: they use materials that are suitable for the end-use they match the product specifications they meet performance requirements they are manufactured by safe production methods they are made within budget limits they sell at an attractive price, and they are safe for the environment Quality Assurance Quality assurance is a system of checks and inspections to ensure high standards throughout design and manufacture. QA involves quality control checks which take place a critical control points. Materials processes staff training need to be considered health and safety. Quality Control Quality Control are a set of tests or inspections done at critical points during manufacture of a product this helps ensure a customer is satisfied with a product QC is carried out during the manufacture of components and products to check: Typical Critical Control points in Textile manufacture Raw materials are tested to make sure they are the correct width, colour, weight and fibre content. Depending on the product end-use, the fabric may be tested for strength, durability, creaseresistance, stretch, shrinkage or water repellency. Prototype This is a mock-up of the product used to trial a design or pattern, see how materials and components behave, work out costs, and test fitness-for-purpose in everyday use. Production During production there will be checks for stitch and seam strength, and seam allowances are tested to check if they meet the tolerance stated in the manufacturing specification. Final product. This is inspected for size and fit, and to see if the 'look' of the product meets the specification.

15 Answer the following questions from BBC bite size When evaluating the manufacturing quality of the product, you don't need to examine the seam allowance, stitching or fastenings: true or false? True False The quality assurance [QA] system uses quality control to test and monitor the quality, accuracy and fitness for purpose of the product from the design stage right through to manufacture. Which of the following are involved in the QA system? Manufacturing specifications Work schedules Prototypes Sealed samples All of the above The final product is inspected for which of the following? Size and fit Quantity and fit Size and amount Quantity and amount Name some quality control check for the material of this children s dress. Name some quality control checks which could take place during manufacture of the dress.

16 *Using you class books and revision guides, fill in the missing words and find them in the grid above.*... Limit the fraying of fabric. (13 letters) This is a domestic knitting machine, know as a... Knitting machine ( 7 letters)... Are used to finish off seams and hems of garments. The... Trims the fabric as it sews the seam. ( 9 letters) This is used in the textile industry for precision cutting. It is reliant upon the skill of the cutter to prevent mistakes....( 7 letters) A design can be made on the computer using CAD. It can then be either transferred onto paper and transfer printed ( sublimation printing) or printed directly onto the fabric... ( 14 letters **hint** ends in printer) There are two main categories of these, hand and machine..., ( 7 letters)

17 Woven fabric is created on a...( 11 letters) Transfer prints are created using a... ( 9 letters) These are used to temporarily hold fabric together... ( 4 letters) An... Machine is used in industry to create patterns, motifs and to personalise products with written script and numbers. It is an example of CAD/CAM. ( 10 letters) A...knitting machine produces fabric in a tubular shape. It can be split along the length and opened up to make use of the whole width of fabric. Socks, t-shirts and stockings can all be manufactured using this method of knitting. ( 9 letters) These can be used for pressing and steaming, also for heat setting dyes and fabric paint...( 4 letters) There are different types of... Automatic means operation is carried out by machine. Semi automatic means to assist the operator or fully automatic to complete the task independently. (13 letters)

18 All textile products have to be labelled. The information has a range of information to inform the customer. These include the product s care, safety, quality standard, size, fibre content and country of origin ( where it came from). The three main categories for labelling are; Care labelling Quality and safety labelling Eco-labelling Care labelling must be included so that the customer can care for the product correctly. Quality and safety labelling Products care tested for safety and quality so the consumer can be confident in the product they are buying. The tests are carried out by either the British standards institute or to achieve the European Safety standard. The y test the product but also the manufacturing process. Manufactures have to pay for these tests but if their product passes they can fix the quality label to their product. Eco-labelling Eco labels can be awarded if a product uses an eco-friendly system to produce the product or if the product is made from recycled, sustainable, organic and natural dye sources

19 Task: find out what the name and meaning of the following labels:

20 What are smart materials? Smart materials are materials that have one or more properties that can be significantly altered in a controlled fashion by external stimuli. (the environment around them) Examples include stress, temperature, moisture, ph, electric or magnetic fields. Burton Snowboards wanted to develop a system to make it easier for snowboarders to listen to music (on a personal stereo) while boarding. They approached Softswitch Ltd to develop a electronic textile control pad for the Apple ipod system, which could be integrated into the sleeve of a Burton snowboarding jacket. The successful development of this wearable electronic system, involving the use of electrically conductive polymers, yarns and fabrics was named as one of Time Magazine's Coolest Inventions. Made of soft, washable fabric, woven with optical and electrical fibres into it, the Smart shirt monitors the wearer s heart rate, body temperature, respiration and a host of other vital functions. The information can be relayed wirelessly to doctors or personal trainers. Future applications include shirts for parental use to monitor babies and for military use to provide a trapped soldier s exact location and give support units exact information about wounds.

21 Microencapsulation Scents and smells can be added to fibres that can be released slowly here s an example of a child s toy that has been fused with Chocolate scent. More scent is released when heat or fric- Thermochromic dyes change colour when heated up. Photochromic dyes the ability to change colour when exposed to sunlight. These dyes generate a reversible colour change under the sunlight or ultra vio- let (UV) light. Interactive textiles incorporates electronics that are reactivated by a power source. They are still smart fabrics they just require power!! Solvation chromism has been developed mainly for disposable nonwoven textiles where a fabric changes colour when wet. E.G babies nappies. Reflective textiles used to enhance safety in cycling and for pedestrians out walking at night, and

22 Modern materials are those that are developed through the invention of new or improved processes. They are not naturally occurring, they are altered to perform a particular job. Kevlar is a versatile material which is strong, tough, stiff, high-melting and well suited for uses such as radial tyres, heat- or flame-resistant fabrics, and bullet-proof clothing Neoprene is a man made fabric, used for wetsuits and other water sports attire. Has a stiff, body hugging quality that seals body heat in for protection Polartec made from recycled Polyester (plastic drinks bottles). Its light-weight and breathable Gore-tex is a bonded fabric that combined with other fabrics in thin layers provides exceptional properties including Wind/water proofing. It will also let the skin breath so is excellent for outdoor protective clothing!

23 Biomimetric means imitating a living bio system. Stomatex fabric keeps the wearer dry and comfortable during exercise. Buoyancy and inflatable textiles thermafloat for use in life jackets, and in inflatable yarns in swimwear for children. Phosphorescent textiles are used in glow-in-the dark fashion. Fibre optics used in trainers for illuminated logos and fibre-optic sensors are inserted in military garments to detect harmful chemicals. Nanotechnology in textiles in the early stages and is being developed to improve performance of fabric through controlling particles in fibres. ( Task: Draw a line from each product description to the smart materials. Product description Smart technology Printed t-shirt that changes colour when the wearer gets hot. Thermochromatic printing Aloe Vera underwear for women that leave the skin soft and moisturised. Children s toy with a scratch and sniff fabric that smells like a flower Micro-encapsulated fabrics Mosquito repellent clothing. Ironing board cover that changes colour when in use.

24 Felt Felt can come in many forms, from recycled wool from PET bottles to made the old fashion wet felting way by nomadic peoples in Central AsiaThe non-woven cloth is made by matting, condensing and pressing organic fibres while they are wet. While some types of felt are very soft, some are tough enough to use on construction materials such as a tar paper called roofing felt. Recycled Polyester PET stands for Poly Ethylene Terephthalate, a plastic resin and a form of polyester. PET is a polymer that is formed by combining two monomers called modified ethylene glycol and Purified Terephthalic Acid. PET is a popular package for food and nonfood products because it is inexpensive, lightweight, resalable, shatter-resistant and recyclable. To source the post consumer bottles, they are sterilized and then dried and crushed into tiny chips. The chips are heated in a vat and forced through spinnerets (as with virgin polyester) and then are spun into yarn and dyed without toxic properties. What can you make with the material? Everything from carpets, bags and clothing to wall coverings, furnishings and craft felt. Organic Cotton The Organic Trade Asso- ciation tells us organic cotton grown by farmers worldwide increased 152 percent during the crop year. Organic cotton is grown without harmful toxic pesticides and synthetic fertilizers meaning the farming methods and materials have a low impact on people and the environment. Production replenishes and maintains soil fertility to build biologically diverse agriculture. In terms of products, it is much easier to find now in upscale and everyday clothing and underwear, stylish bedding, rugs, bags.

25 Soybean Fabric Soy fabric is friendly and soft and similar to cashmere or silk in texture. It is found in luxury items, such as these cushy robes from Eco Body wear, and scrumptious baby rompers from Baby Soy USA. Soybean protein fibre is a sustainable and botanical textile fibre made from renewable and biodegradable natural resources the leftover soybean pulp from tofu and soy milk production. Bamboo Fibre The eco fibre option of choice, bamboo is woven into everything from fashionable dresses like those made by Spun in Seattle and other respected labels, to towels, totes and interior elements such as window treatments. This natural textile is made from the pulp of the bamboo grass and is best in the organic form pure and unbleached. It is a strong fabric, considered more durable and sustainable than conventional textile fibres. Hemp Hemp is grown without pesticides or fertilizers and is rapidly replacing plastic-based materials for clothing and home decor. A member of the Cannabis Sativa plant family (don t worry, it won t get you high other than environmentally!), it yields 250% more fibre than cotton per acre plus 500% more pulp fibre than forest wood. Hemp dates back to more than 10,000 years ago with a myriad of uses such as paper making, cloth weaving and extracted oils for medicinal products and skincare. Tencel It is a regenerated fibre made from the cellulose found in wood pulp from sustainably grown and harvested tree, and the solvents and water used in processing are continually recycled. Tencel is biodegradable, strong, soft, lightweight, drapes well and is breathable, this makes it popular choice for sustainable fashion. Tencel requires harsh chemicals to fix the dyes to the fabric

26 Include: the concerns over the way products are manufactured and the well-being and safety of the people who make the products. Ensuring no exploiting of workers Code of practice Safety, comfort and well-being of people who come into contact with the product. The way in which products are manufactured and sourced. On average every person in the UK throws away their own body weight in rubbish every seven weeks ( html 26/09/07) The Primark effect: Throwaway fashion that cannot be recycled now makes up 30 per cent of the waste in council tips dailymail.co.uk Rubbish today compared to pre-1960s rubbish, contains less biodegradable products than ever before. Over 70% of the world s population use second hand clothes. ( nsheets/textiles.htm28/09/07) The safety, comfort and well-being of those who make/ come into contact with the designs/product Ensuring right working conditions code of practice Reflecting on how technology affects the environment Where the materials for products come from. Exposed: Primark's fashion sweatshops that pay children just 60p a day (2008) Important issues that form part of traditions and identity. How products affect the quality of lives within different cultures. How traditional skills and cultural knowledge impact on modern products. The use and knowledge of traditional skills Cultural influences on consumer choice Some people in society may be restricted to their choice of textile products by religious beliefs and customs. For example Muslim women cover their head and body and wear longer styles of clothes and head scarves. Traditional clothing might be preferred by older generations but world communication means younger generations are often influenced by the western world. However Oriental and African textiles often inspire fashion trends.

27 When talking about social, moral, cultural and environmental issues they often overlap and interlink and do not always fit under one category E.G recycling is seen as an environmental issues, but it also has economic and social factors to consider. the amount of energy used to recycle Tesco accused over padded bra for 7-yearolds When designing products you need to consider global society as this effects the designing and manufacturing of products. Social responsibility means ensuring that our own and other people s quality of life and human rights are not compromised to fulfil our demands. Questions to consider when designing products! When designing a product does it improve users quality of life? Is it appropriate for society in which it would be used? Does the product meet the needs of people today without limiting future generations? Fairtrade is a non profit organisation which has internationally agreed standards for the sourcing, manufacture and costing of products to ensure companies and consumers are paying fairly to all workers throughout the process. They particularly help the poor and disadvantage workers who are often exploited. ETI is an alliance of companies, trade union and voluntary organisations who work to improve the lives of workers across the globe. The use of sustainable materials minimising waste sustainable sourcing of material visual impact on environment from making a product. The use of chemicals dangerous to the environment to manufacture products. Carbon footprint End of life disposal

28 Fibres Fibres are tiny hair like structures. They can be either short (staple fibres) or long (filament fibres). All fabrics come from fibres. On their own they are weak but when twisted into yarns they take on different properties. There are three groups of fibres. Yarns Yarns are fibres that have been twisted into long lengths. They are spun in either an anticlockwise (S twist) or clockwise (Z twist) direction. Fabrics Fabrics have all sorts of uses from clothing to automotive and engineering purposes. There are four main types, knitted, woven, felted and bonded.

29 Natural fibres and their properties Linen Silk Cotton Wool Cool to wear Very absorbent, dries slowly Soft handle Good drape Durable Creases easily Wash and iron Warm to wear Absorbent Soft handle Good lustre and drape Durable Creases drop out Dry clean Fresh and cool to wear Very absorbent, fast drying Stiffer handle Good drape Durable Creases badly Wash and iron Warm to wear Absorbent, dries slowly Breathable, repels rain Soft or coarse handle Can shrink, dry clean Good drape Not durable Creases drop out Synthetic fibres and their properties Fibre Fabric names End use Clothing, ropes, carpets and rugs. Seat belts and sports Polyamide nylon, tactel strong, hard-wearing, good elasticity, thermoplastic, belting does not decompose, melts as it burns. Polyester polyester fleece, very strong, flame resistant, thermoplastic, terylene does not decompose. Acrylic courtelle, strong but weaker when wet, thermoplastic, shrinks amicor from heat and burns slowly then melts Wide range of textile products Knitwear and knitted jersey fabrics. Toys, fake-fur products. Upholstery fabrics. Antibacterial socks and sportswear. Elastane lycra very elastic, lightweight but still very strong. Resists chemicals and biological damage from perspiration. Very hard wearing. Swimwear, sportswear and clothing that may require extra elasticity such as jeans or fitted blouses

30 State whether the fibres below are animal, plant, regenerated or synthetic. Then find them in the word search. **To help with revision colour all animal fibres blue, plant fibres green, regenerated purple and synthetic pink.** Cotton Rayon Angora Viscose Linen Alpaca Mohair Jute Polyester Elastane Acrylic Cashmere Nylon Silk

31 Fibres, yarns and fabrics revision.are fibres that have been twisted into long lengths. They are spun in either an anticlockwise (S twist) or clockwise (Z twist) direction....are tiny hair like structures. They are either short fibres called... or long fibres called are made from fibres and yarns. They have many different uses from clothing to automotive and even medical. The three groups of fibres, Natural, Synthetic, and Regenerated Natural fibres come from...and plants. Examples of animal fibres are; wool, mohair and silk Examples of plant fibres are; cotton.and... Synthetic fibres are made from the by-products of oil. Examples of synthetic fibres are; nylon, acrylic... Microfibres are extremely fine synthetic fibres. They are up to 60 times finer than human hair. It is often used in sports wear as it is 25% lighter than cotton. Regenerated fibres fibres that have been created artificially from proteins or cellulose waste, for example wood pulp or cotton linter. They are converted and reformed by wet-chemical processing that allows production of continuous filaments that can be spun into a fibre. Examples of regenerated fibres are; viscose and... Knitting is a process of interlocking loops of yarn. Weft knitting is worked horizontally. The loops above and below each row interlock, holding the fabric together. Weft knitting - yarns are knitted in... rows. The loops hold the fabric together by interlocking above and below each row. Uses of weft knitting: nightwear, cardigans, sports and leisure wear which needs stretch and movement Advantages: good insulator as loop structure traps air, available in a variety of weights and hundreds of different stitches can be used. Very stretchy Disadvantages: single jersey fabric curls at the edges making it difficult to work with. Weft knits ladder if a thread is cut or breaks.

32 Warp knitting Warp knitting has warp yarns which interlock... along the length of the fabric. Warp knitting is an industrial process only Advantages: keep shape well as not as stretchy as weft knitting, does not easily ladder, fastest way to produce fabric once machine is set up Disadvantage: Setting up warp knitting machine takes a very long time not generally used for fashion fabrics Weaving is a process where two yarns, the warp and the weft are woven together at right angles to each other. It involves strong warp threads running the length of the loom with the weft threads being woven across using a shuttle. The way the warp and weft threads are woven produces different patterns or weaves. The yarns or threads that run horizontally across the fabric are called... The yarns or threads running vertically are called... Woven fabrics fray easily The closer the weave is together the stronger the fabric is. Name the following two weaves: Non-woven fabrics are made with raw fibres which haven t been turned into yarns first. This can be done by; Treating with chemicals to matt together, using heat to felt together or stitched together in layers. Non-woven fabrics can be broken down into 3 main groups; wool felts, needle felts, bonded fibres. Advantages: depending on yarn and weave it can be hardwearing. Twill is the hardestwearing weave Disadvantages: they are not as strong as other fabrics, they do not stretch or give which means they can tear. Task: Write how the following textile products have been constructed

33 Select the most appropriate fabric for each one of the Textile products below. Be prepared to explain why you have chosen your particular fabric. Choice of fabric Explain your choice Advantages of this fabric Fabric reading cube Disadvantages of this fabric Choice of fabric Explain your choice Advantages of this fabric Disadvantages of this fabric Designer Dress Choice of fabric Explain your choice Advantages of this fabric Shopper Bag Disadvantages of this fabric

34 Image shows a machine used for screen printing in a factory. Image shows a machine used for rotary screen printing in a factory. The graphics show two different types of screen printing..industrial flatbed printing the fabric moved through the machine on a conveyor belt and the print repeating rapidly. Rotary screen printing uses CAD and roller squeegees - one roller for each colour; this is a very fast process used in the continuous printing of furnishing and clothing fabrics. (BBC Bitesize ) Dyeing Before dyeing and printing the fabric is prepared by washing, bleaching and mercerising. In industrial production fabric is dyed by continuous or batch dyeing: In continuous dyeing, the fabric passes through a dye bath. The fabric is then squeezed between rollers to spread the dye evenly and remove excess dye. Continuous dyeing is used for colours that do not need to change too quickly with fashion. In batch dyeing, fabrics are produced without dye. They are then dyed to order in large batches according to the colours required. Batch dyeing is used for colours that need to change frequently with fashion.

35 Computers are a great way of helping you design and manufacture a textile product. They ensure accuracy in the finished product. Computers can help in the researching, designing and manufacture of a textile product. CAD- (Computer aided design) using computers to help design your product CAM-(Computer aided manufacture) using machinery to help with the manufacture of textile products. Researching and presenting a design Internet- Researching retailers and designers to gather ideas for your own product Trend websites- These websites have information on which fabrics, shapes and colours are in vogue Digital cameras- Taking photographs of similar products 3D modelling- Using computer software to show your designs on a 3D model. Spreadsheets- can help with calculating the cost of fabric and components. CAD (Computer aided design) The advantages of using CAD allows you to make changes and adjustments to your design without having to redraw, it is also really quick. Here a few ways in which this can be used;- 3D modelling software- this allows you to design a product in 3D, a visual prototype. 2D paint software- allows you to design logos and repeat patterns and experiment with different colours (colourways) Scanners- allow you to scan fabrics which can be applied to a 3D model.

36 CAM (Computer aided manufacture) CAM allows you to produce a product with a lot more speed and accuracy. Here a few ways in which this can be used;- Computerised sewing machines- a complicated logo or motif can be embroidered on to a product. Computerised fabric printers- computers can be used to produce large amounts of printed fabric. For example automated screen printing, this ensures quality and accuracy. Drawing patterns and layplans- computers allow you to adjust patterns. Computers also plan the most economical way in which to lay the pattern pieces on the fabric. Laser cutters- Computers are used to control lasers which cut out fabric in multiple layers. CNC technology ADVANTAGES OF CAD/CAM Large amounts of identical products can be manufactured quickly and accurately. It is very accurate, which helps to ensure a high quality product. Visual prototypes can be produced, giving the client a better idea of how your design will look. Changes can be made quickly and easily to the design It reduces time and labour costs. DISADVANTAGES OF CAD/CAM Computer virus can mean that work can be destroyed. Workers require training in how to use CAD/CAM and this can be expensive. The software is very expensive. Disadvantages of CAD/CAM