HENITEX. Colors, textures, patterns & techniques for. By Virginia Borland

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HENITEX Colors, textures, patterns & techniques for fall 2 0 1 3 / 2 0 1 4 By Virginia Borland winter For Fall/Winter 2013/14 colors are dark with bright highlights or very bright, fabrics are bulky

Look for blurred tweeds, herringbones, twills, felts, meltons, moleskins, velvets, fleeces and denim. There are jacquards and burn outs, prints and patterns are covered and colorful.

COLOR The 21 colors on the Premiere Vision Color card are divided into three groups.

Printed fabrics are very bright and covered, dark with bright accents or soft and powdery. For evening it is very bright.

1 HENITEX Colors, textures, patterns & techniques for fall / By Virginia Borland winter For Fall/Winter 2013/14 colors are dark with bright highlights or very bright, fabrics are bulky and light weight, velvet-touch, silky, clean and soft. Double cloths, bonding and multilayered transparencies turned up frequently. Stretch is a given. Knits are compact. Look for blurred tweeds, herringbones, twills, felts, meltons, moleskins, velvets, fleeces and denim. There are jacquards and burn outs, prints and patterns are covered and colorful. Metallics have a copper or golden hue. Finishes are soft and supple or oiled, waxed, polyurethane, resin coated or have a paper touch. COLOR The 21 colors on the Premiere Vision Color card are divided into three groups. Six very dark shades center the card with seven soft, powdery colors to the right and six brights plus copper and mottled granite to the left. Woven patterns combine dark with bright. Printed fabrics are very bright and covered, dark with bright accents or soft and powdery. For evening it is very bright. WOOLIES At Robert Noble of Scotland, cashmere, merino and Shetland wool turned up in boucles, glen checks, gun club checks, herringbones and small classic patterns. Many fabrics have a natural finish and there is a lot of stretch. Weights range from ultra light to heavy coatings. Colors are very dark shades of olive, ocher and brown with rust or berry highlights. Avelana and Roudiere of France show together. New here is Carbonium, a modified polyester fiber thats pins, dyes and feels like wool. It is wrinkle, water, and stain resistant and can be blended with other fibers. At Avelana it has been styled into fabrics for womens wear and blended with wool. There is a glen check, stretch herringbone, and platinum finished fabric. Other wool fabrics include bi-stretch, Donegal tweeds, and bubble textures. The best seller is a worsted flannel.

For menswear Roudiere has an extensive line of bi-stretch clean strips and tweeds. There is an Irish tweed with technical stretch and a double faced fabric that reverses from worsted to wool.

Malia Kent showed tweeds and jacquards with the animal spirit. Soft, hairy blanket coatings are emblazoned with enormous stylized jungle wild life.

Their new chemical finishing gives fabrics a paper touch. s line is colorful and hairy or brushed. There are bright plaid, tweed and boucle coat and jacket weight fabrics and double cloths.

Malia Kent Malia Kent CASUAL Malia kent Wool and blends of cashmere/cotton or mohair/wool/acrylic are knitted in a wide variety of looks at SMI.

At Charpentier & Preux crochet knits are available with or without stretch. There are brushed wool/cotton blends with raised boarders, scroll designs, zig zags, crinkles and pretty laces.

SMI Henitex is showing a range of knitted fabrics that includes texture, animal skins, large scale placed jacquard patterns and stripes of all sizes and combinations.

2 For menswear Roudiere has an extensive line of bi-stretch clean strips and tweeds. There is an Irish tweed with technical stretch and a double faced fabric that reverses from worsted to wool. Groupo GF has a new line of jacquards with a three dimensional look, Chanel-type tweeds with a soft fluffy touch and ultra light weight tweeds that look thick. Bright colors are popular. Malia Kent showed tweeds and jacquards with the animal spirit. Soft, hairy blanket coatings are emblazoned with enormous stylized jungle wild life. Nikke celebrated 100 years in business with vintage classics and a new finishing treatment. There are double weaves that reverse from check to twill or ultra light double gauze. Their new chemical finishing gives fabrics a paper touch. s line is colorful and hairy or brushed. There are bright plaid, tweed and boucle coat and jacket weight fabrics and double cloths. One has a woven wool face and is bonded to a knitted back, another reverses from black to a colorful plaid. Malia Kent Malia Kent CASUAL Malia kent Wool and blends of cashmere/cotton or mohair/wool/acrylic are knitted in a wide variety of looks at SMI. There is fleece for sportswear, heavy coating fabrics and a lot of double faces. These include stripe/tweed, herringbone/tweed or one big jacquard rose that reverses to tweed. At Charpentier & Preux crochet knits are available with or without stretch. There are brushed wool/cotton blends with raised boarders, scroll designs, zig zags, crinkles and pretty laces. A lot of fabrics have boarders or edgings. SMI Henitex is showing a range of knitted fabrics that includes texture, animal skins, large scale placed jacquard patterns and stripes of all sizes and combinations. Double faced fabrics reverse from stripe to chevron or Malia are fleece kentbacked with black and white faces. A large American flag turns up on a quilted or a pique knit. Stripes are variegated, engineered, change direction or combine with other sizes and shapes. Stretch is a best seller at BTD, where pants are a major end use. There are power stretch twills and crepes, pique twills, double faced black and white patterns that reverse to twill and a variety of boucles for jackets to go with all of those pants. Some are Chanel-styled and some contain Lurex. CHARPENTIER & PREUX

Traditional corduroy has been the basic of the Chapman Group since 1869. Eight wale is their biggest seller especially in black; color is beginning to sell, Chapman has a large range of stock colors.

Velcorex, showing with Philea, has taken corduroy to new extremes, Ultra light, mini rib or cordless, it can stretch, is jacquard patterned or printed.

Deep bright colors are dyed using a new technique developed by Clariant that requires less water and is friendlier to the environment. Philea has a wide variety of crepes.

HENITEX TECHNO At Frizza finishes can be glossy, matte or somewhere in the middle.

3 Traditional corduroy has been the basic of the Chapman Group since Eight wale is their biggest seller especially in black; color is beginning to sell, Chapman has a large range of stock colors. Moleskin and cotton drill are two other standards. Velcorex, showing with Philea, has taken corduroy to new extremes, Ultra light, mini rib or cordless, it can stretch, is jacquard patterned or printed. There is ribless corduroy dyed to look like denim, tonally colored and twill patterned corduroy. Deep bright colors are dyed using a new technique developed by Clariant that requires less water and is friendlier to the environment. Philea has a wide variety of crepes. Some are satin backed with stretch, there is crepe georgette, textured and jacquard patterned crepe. Most of the patterns are small, with a casual look. Other fabrics are tweedy and glitter. HENITEX TECHNO At Frizza finishes can be glossy, matte or somewhere in the middle. There are transparencies, see through double faced fabrics, 3-D prints, fabrics that look and feel like elephant skin and a triple cloth with a layer of sheer over shine over fleece. Olmetex has a lot of double fabrics. There is wool/nylon/polyester that reverses from a wool surface to micro fake fur, a quilted yarn dyed pattern that reverses to thermal jersey, waxed cotton reversing to yarn dyed viscose plaid, and a waterproof stretch coating that has a wool blend on one side, neoprene on the other. frizza frizza LUXE There is color and glitter with a paper touch at Carlo Pozzi. Wool/silk tweedy looks, color reverse double faces, multi colored jacquard flowers, and sheer/opaque crinkle fabrics with subtle glitter in blends of wool, silk, acetate or nylon are some of their other new fabrics. Denis et fils is showing elaborate lames and jacquards, some on velvet or satin grounds. At Solstiss, best selling laces are heavy corded, Chantilly styles, abstract patterned or copper metallics. There are boarders and edgings. s line is elegant, luxe and very new. There is printed leather and suede, some embellished with nail heads, others have a gummy texture applied to them. One is printed with an animal design. Burn outs in bright colors have simple designs. Wool blend coating fabrics are printed with optic geometric looks, some have a dimensional

quality. Printed velvets are there in a variety of stripes, zig-zags, large Indian patterns and misty abstract all-overs.

And of course, there are new paisley designs that are elaborate and rich on wool challis or velvet. There are heavy jacquards, some with a touch of glitter in the woven line. Some are double faced.

There are patterned coat weight fabrics with boucle and metallic yarns, and jacket weight fabrics with fuzzy and nubby yarns.

Jersey, canvas, crepe, crepe de chine, satin, taffeta and georgette are some of the fabrics.

patchworks and enormous designs that run selvedge to selvedge. KBC Confetti has large, bold, dramatic patterns.

4 quality. Printed velvets are there in a variety of stripes, zig-zags, large Indian patterns and misty abstract all-overs. There is a variety of printed polyester fabrics including canvas, satin backed crepe, and georgette printed with large floral designs and blurred plaids. And of course, there are new paisley designs that are elaborate and rich on wool challis or velvet. There are heavy jacquards, some with a touch of glitter in the woven line. Some are double faced. Other jacquards are brightly colored with boucle and nubbed yarns in combinations of stripes, dots and diamond patterns. There are patterned coat weight fabrics with boucle and metallic yarns, and jacket weight fabrics with fuzzy and nubby yarns. Carlo Pozzi Denis et fils PRINTS Prints are selling, especially digital prints that are enormous, elaborate, colorful and covered. Jersey, canvas, crepe, crepe de chine, satin, taffeta and georgette are some of the fabrics. At KBC there are multi-colored kaleidoscope styles, photographic flowers, needlepoint designs, digital scenics, blurred orientals, lace patterns, new paisleys, houses hidden behind foliage, melting patchworks and enormous designs that run selvedge to selvedge. KBC Confetti has large, bold, dramatic patterns. There are architectural figurative designs with double Eiffel towers soaring on a misted ground or New York City rising, centered with the Empire State building. Enormous bright blurred plaids, bold blotchy abstracts, mosaic/paisley combos and pretty placed bouquets are some of the other new stand outs. Miroglio is showing enormous, colorful combinations of blurred stripes and checks, blotchy cityscapes, moving abstracts, dimensional geometrics, huge florals sometimes combined with birds or butterflies, and, of course, new paisleys and animal skins. There are oriental florals and Indian motifs. Most of the prints are completely covered or have tweed, dot or lacy grounds. Miroglio At Sprintex prints are oversized, dramatic and graphic or small with combinations of delicate flowers and dots. Large scale prints are engineered, photo-realistic, new patchwork combos or enormous florals. There are boarders, double boarders and scarf prints. Since opening their own office in New York a year ago Liberty s North American business has increased 200-percent! Along with the usual Liberty lawn, jersey, corduroy, they have added a new fleece for fall. The print line is new Liberty. Along with flowers there are pears, birds, and figs on a leafy vine. Confetti

Miroglio January 15-16,2013 Resource Spring / summer 2014 where to find it PREVIEW New York AT THE METROPOLITAN PAVILION AND ALTMAN BUILDING PVUSA@PREMIEREVISION.

5 Miroglio January 15-16,2013 Resource Spring / summer 2014 where to find it PREVIEW New York AT THE METROPOLITAN PAVILION AND ALTMAN BUILDING PVUSA@PREMIEREVISION.COM Amalfi Fabrics (for Chapman) 570 7th Ave., # BTD USA 330 W. 38th St., #1009, NYC 10018, Chesler & Assoc. (for Sprintex) 1430 B way, # Debbie Matos (for SMI) th St., #6J Corona, NY, European Textile Trading (for Olmetex) 110 W. 40th St, #508A Gruppo GF elena@gruppogf.it Hanna Cohen (for Charpentier & Preux) 246 W.38th St., 10th Fl Larry Case (for Robert Noble) 22 Canterbury Lane, Wilton, CT, Liberty Art Fabrics 110 W. 40th ST., # Manon Clavel (for Avelana & Roudiere) 208 W. 29th St., #506 NYC, Miroglio USA 1430 B way, 7th fl Nikke yoshino-hiroyuki@nikke.co.jp Mills USA (for, Henitex & KBC) 241 W. 37th St., 10th fl USA 8 W. 40th St, 17th fl Solstiss Inc. (for Denis et fils & Solstiss) 561 7th Ave., 21st fl Stelmar (for Confetti) 213 W. 35th St, # Studio Bert Forma (for Philea & Velcorex) 237 W. 37th St., # Tela-Fina (for Carlo Pozzi) 142 W. 36th St., # Tex-Studio (for Frizza) 80 Depeyster Ave. Tenafly, NJ, Report distributed at the Spring / Summer 2013 New York/ London / Milan / Paris Collections presented November 14, 2012 by: The Fashion Group International, Inc. 8 West 40th Street, 7th Floor, NYC T: F:

SPRING / SUMMER 2015

SPRING / SUMMER 2015 Best selling colors, weaves, textures & patterns By Virginia Borland Less is more. For Spring/Summer 2015 colors are less bright. Fabrics are less dense and heavy. Sparkle is less