INTRODUCTION TO CROCHET BASICS

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1 CONTENTS Abbreviations..1 Introduction to Crochet Basics..2-3 Tools of the Trade.3-4 How to Crochet Right Handed How to Crochet Left Handed Slip Stitch, Double Crochet Half Treble, Treble Double Treble, Triple Treble Quadruple Treble, Quintuple Treble How to Read a Pattern.27 Increasing and Decreasing Crocheting in Rows Crocheting in Rounds Popcorns and Clusters Filet Crochet..38 Motifs Care and Laundering ABBREVIATIONS blk... block quintr... quintupletreble ch... chain sl st... slip stitch dc... double crochet sp[s]... space[s] dtr... double treble st[s]... stitch[es] htr... half treble tr... treble m... main colour triptr... triple treble quadtr.. quadruple treble c... contrast no...number inc...increase lp...loop dec...decrease 1

2 INTRODUCTION TO CROCHET BASICS This e-book is intended as an instructional tool to be used as a whole, and not in part. Each instruction continues from the previous one, so read carefully from the beginning and master each step before moving onto the next. Some of the information in this book may vary from that found in other publications. This does not mean that either way is incorrect, only that techniques can vary. I have found the technique employed here to be the easiest way for a beginner to learn, whether you are left or right handed. The illustrations on pages 5 to 11 are for right handed learners only, and the illustrations on pages 11 to 16 are for left handed learners only. Illustrations of stitches on pages 17 to 27, are presented as follows. The instructions for each stitch apply to both left and right handed learners. The right hand side illustrations are for right handed learners, and the left hand side illustrations are for left handed learners. To avoid confusion, I suggest covering the side not applicable to you. 2

3 All crochet stitches are based on the principle of pulling a loop through another loop with a hook. When crocheting, right handers work from right to left and left handers work from left to right. For your first attempt to crochet, begin with 8 ply yarn and a 3.50mm hook. These are larger implements and make the stitches clearly visible. Practise the first stitch until it can be preformed easily, before advancing to the next. In all crocheting, pick up the two top threads of each stitch unless the pattern states otherwise. CHAIN [ch] All crocheting must begin with chain. It is used to gain correct height at the beginning of a row, and to create an opening or space when needed. When crocheting the starting row, work the chain more loosely than in any other row. CROCHET YARNS The finer mercerised threads are suitable for delicate patterns such as doilies, edges and tablecloths. However if you have a problem holding or seeing these fine threads, work in a thicker thread such as #10 or 4ply cotton. Remember though that increasing your hook size and thread size will result in a larger finished product. Texture plays an important part in the beauty of crochet, and different brands or colours of the same size thread may vary in thickness. Avoid joining thread in the middle of a row. However if your thread is running out, lay the new thread along the top of the work and crochet a few stitches over it. Before the original thread runs out, start using the new thread and work the stitches over the old thread. Weave in any protruding ends. CROCHET HOOKS Crochet hooks are made of alloy metals, steel and plastic. Each hook is suited to a certain thread size. 3

4 Patterns should specify hook size, suitable thread and tension to achieve the desired size and texture in the finished product. If you begin working and find your tension is too loose, use a smaller hook. If your crocheting is too tight, use a larger hook. Use this table as a guide only to help you decide which hook size is suitable for which size thread. It also shows the equivalent metric size compared to the older style numbered hooks. THREAD HOOK OLD SIZE #80 & # mm 6 # mm 5 # mm 4 # mm 3 # mm 2½-2 3ply mm ply mm ply mm mm mm mm 2 Copyright Michelle Starkie

5 HOW TO CROCHET RIGHT HANDED STEP 1 Fig. 1 MAKING A LOOP 1. Hold the thread near the end between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. 2. Make a loop with the right hand by winding the long thread over the short thread. 3. Hold the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. [Fig. 1] Fig. 2 5

6 STEP 2 1. Hold the broad bar of the hook with the right hand. 2. Push the hook through the loop and under the thread. [Fig. 2] Hold the long thread and pull the loop through. 3. Do not remove the hook from the yarn. Fig. 3 STEP 3 1. Pull both threads to tighten loop around end of hook. Not too tight. [Fig. 3] 6

7 Fig. 4 STEP 4 WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT HAND 1. Measure about 10cm. down the thread from the loop on the hook. 2. With the palm of the hand facing up, hold the thread between the ring finger and the little finger. [Fig. 4] Fig. 5 STEP 5 1. Wind thread under ring finger, over middle finger, and under forefinger. [Fig. 5] 7

8 Fig. 6 STEP 6 1. Hold the loop and the hook between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. 2. Pull the thread gently so that it pulls firmly around the fingers. [Fig. 6] 3. Hold the knot of the loop between the thumb and forefinger. Fig. 7 8

9 STEP 7 WHAT TO DO WITH THE RIGHT HAND. 1. Hold the broad bar of the hook as if you were holding a pencil. 2. Position the middle finger near the tip of the hook. [Fig. 7] Fig. 8 STEP 8 1. Position the fingers of the left hand as in Fig. 8. The ring and little fingers control the thread, and the middle finger controls the tension. The right hand controls the hook movement, and the left hand regulates the yarn evenly. This becomes easy with practice. 9

10 Fig. 9 STEP 9 CHAIN [ch] 1. Move the hook under the thread and pull the thread with the hook. This is referred to as yarn over hook. [Fig. 9] 2. Pull the thread through the loop with the hook. One chain made. Fig. 10 STEP Make as many chain as required, as in Step 9. Keeping the last loop on the hook. [Fig. 10] 10

11 2. Your left hand is guiding the yarn and helping the loop to slide along the hook. 3. Practise making chain until they are uniform in size and shape. HOW TO CROCHET LEFT HANDED Fig. 1 STEP 1 MAKING A LOOP 1. Hold the thread near the end between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. 2. Make a loop with the right hand by winding the long thread over the short thread. 3. Hold the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. [Fig. 1] Fig. 2 11

12 STEP 2 1. Hold the broad bar of the hook with the left hand. 2. Push the hook through the loop and under the long thread.[fig. 2] Hold the long thread and pull the loop through. 3. Keep the loop on the hook. Fig. 3 STEP 3 1. Pull both threads to tighten loop around end of hook. Not too tight. [Fig. 3] Fig. 4 12

13 STEP 4 WHAT TO DO WITH THE RIGHT HAND 1. Measure about 10cm. down the thread from the loop on the hook. 2. With the palm of the hand facing up, hold the thread between the ring finger and the little finger. [Fig. 4] Fig. 5 STEP 5 1. Wind thread under ring finger, over middle finger, and under forefinger. [Fig. 5] Fig 6 13

14 STEP 6 1. Hold the loop and the hook between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. 2. Pull the thread gently so that it tightens around the fingers. [Fig. 6] 3. Hold the knot of the loop between the thumb and forefinger. Fig. 7 STEP 7 WHAT TO DO WITH THE LEFT HAND. 1. Hold the broad bar of the hook as if you were holding a pencil. 2. Position the middle finger near the tip of the hook. [Fig. 7] 14

15 Fig. 8 STEP 8 1. Position the fingers of the right hand as in Fig. 8. The ring and little fingers control the thread, and the middle finger controls the tension. The left hand controls the hook movement and the right hand regulates the thread evenly. This becomes easy with practice. Fig. 9 STEP 9 CHAIN [ch] 1. Move the hook under the thread and catch the thread with the hook. This is referred to as yarn over hook. [Fig. 9] 2. Pull the thread through the loop with the hook. One chain made. 15

16 Fig. 10 STEP Make as many chain as required, as in Step 9. Keep the last loop on the hook. [Fig. 10] 2. Keep the thumb and forefinger close to the stitch you are making. 3. Practise making chain until they are uniform in shape and size. 16

17 SLIP STI TCH [sl st] Fig. 11 SLIP STITCH [sl st] Slip stitching is used to join rounds in circular crochet, and to travel along the row without creating height. Insert the hook through the length of chain from the front, under the two top threads of the stitch next to the hook. [Fig. 11] Fig. 12 Yarn over hook [Fig. 12], pull through the stitch and the loop on the hook. Continue along the row of chain. [Fig. 13] 17

18 Fig. 13 DOUBLE CROCHET [dc] Fig. 14 Crochet a length of chain. Working from the front, push the hook under the top two threads of the second chain from the hook. Yarn over hook and pull the thread through the chain stitch. [Fig. 12] You now have two loops on your hook. [Fig. 14] Yarn over hook [Fig. 15] and pull through both loops, one loop remains on the hook. One double crochet made. [Fig. 16] Move the hook under the top two threads of the next stitch and work the next dc as the previous one. 18

19 Fig. 15 Fig.16 19

20 HALF TREBLE [htr] Fig. 17 Crochet a length of chain, yarn over hook, from the front push the hook under the two top threads of the third chain from the hook [Fig. 17]. Yarn over hook and pull through chain. You have three loops on hook. Yarn over hook [Fig. 18], pull through all three loops, one loop remaining on hook. One half treble made [Fig. 19]. Fig

21 Fig. 19 To make the next htr, yarn over hook, push the hook under the two top threads of the next chain stitch and complete as per previous htr. TREBLE [tr] Fig

22 Crochet a length of chain, yarn over hook, from the front, push the hook under the two top threads of the fourth chain from the hook [Fig. 20], yarn over hook, pull through this chain. You now have three loops on the hook, yarn over hook, [Fig. 21] and pull it through two loops, two loops remain on the hook. Fig. 21 Fig

23 Yarn over hook [Fig. 22], pull through the remaining two loops, one loop will remain on the hook. One treble [tr] made [Fig. 23]. To make the next tr, yarn over hook, push the hook under the two top threads of the next chain and repeat as previous tr. Fig. 23 DOUBLE TREBLE [dtr] Fig

24 Crochet a length of chain, yarn over hook twice, from the front, push the hook under the two top threads of the fifth chain from the hook, yarn over hook, and pull it through the chain stitch. There are now four loops on the hook, yarn over hook and pull it through two loops, three loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull it through two loops, two loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook, and pull it through the remaining two loops, one loop will remain on the hook. One dtr made. For next dtr, yarn over hook twice, push the hook under the two top threads of the next ch and complete as previous one. [Fig. 24] TRIPLE TREBLE [triptr] Fig. 25 Crochet a length of chain, yarn over hook three times, from the front, insert the hook under the two top threads of the sixth chain from the hook, yarn over hook, and pull through the chain. Five loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook, and pull through two loops, four loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops. 24

25 Three loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops, two loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again and pull through the remaining two loops, one loop will remain on the hook. A triple treble [triptr] made. For following triptr, yarn over hook three times, insert the hook under the two top threads of the next ch and complete as previous triptr. [Fig. 25] QUADRUPLE TREBLE [quadtr] Fig. 26 Crochet a length of chain, yarn over hook four times, from the front, insert the hook under the top two threads of the seventh chain from the hook, yarn over hook, and pull through the chain. You have six loops on the hook, yarn over hook, and pull through two loops, five loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops, four loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops, three loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops, two loops remain on the hook 25

26 Yarn over hook again, and pull it through the remaining two loops, one loop will remain on the hook. A quadruple treble [quadtr] made. To make the next quadtr, yarn over hook four times, insert hook from the front, under the top two threads of the next chain and complete as previous quadtr. [Fig. 26] QUINTUPLE TREBLE [quintr] Fig. 27 Crochet a length of chain, yarn over hook five times, push the hook from the front, under the top two threads of the eighth chain from the hook, yarn over hook, and pull through the chain. You have seven loops on the hook, yarn over hook and pull through two loops, six loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops, five loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through two loops, four loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again and pull through two loops, three loops will remain on the hook, yarn over 26

27 hook again, and pull through two loops, two loops will remain on the hook, yarn over hook again, and pull through the remaining two loops, one loop will remain on the hook. One quintuple treble made. For next quintuple treble [quintr], yarn over hook five times, insert the hook under the two top threads of the next chain and complete as previous quintr. [Fig. 27] HOW TO READ A PATTERN Patterns are normally written in rows. If this is the case, crochet the first row and then turn the work, crochet the following row to the end and turn the work again. Continue like this turning at the end of each row. If the pattern is written in rounds, crochet the first round, ending with a slip stitch into the top of the first stitch of the round. Don t turn your work between rounds. If directions are enclosed in a bracket, repeat them as many times as stipulated, eg. [3ch, 1 dc into next dc] 4 times. This means to work whatever is in the brackets 4 times. An *[asterisk] in a pattern means the instruction after the * is repeated as many times as stipulated, in addition to the original direction that followed the *, eg. [Miss 3 tr, *1tr in next tr, 4ch, repeat from *to last tr, a tr in last tr], means to miss the first 3tr, work the next 1tr and 4ch as stated, then keep repeating them until one treble remains, then work 1tr into last tr. 27

28 INCREASING Each individual pattern gives exact directions for increasing. Increasing basically means working two stitches instead of one, into one stitch of the previous row. You can do this at either end of a row or at any point in the row. The pattern will normally give precise directions as to where and how much to increase. DECREASING The pattern will give exact directions for decreasing. Miss one stitch miss the next stitch and work into the following stitch. In some patterns this may be stated as skip one. Work 2 stitches together by not finishing either of the next 2 stitches, leaving the last loop of each stitch on the hook as well as the loop already on the hook, yarn over hook and pull through all loops on the hook to only leave one loop on the hook. Both these methods decrease the amount of stitches by one. Fig

29 Work 2sts tog or Decrease treble Make the first treble to the stage where you have two loops on the hook. Work the next tr until you have four loops on the hook [Fig. 28], yarn over hook and pull through two loops [Fig. 29], yarn over hook again and pull through the remaining three loops. One loop remains on the hook. [Fig. 30] Again, the pattern should give exact directions. Fig. 29 Fig. 30 To decrease at the start of a row, slip stitch along the amount of stitches to be decreased, then work the turning chain and complete the row. To decrease at the end of a row, work along the row until you have the no. of stitches required, turn your work leaving the remaining stitches on the current row unworked. 29

30 Work turning ch, work back across last row as if you had completed it all the way to the end. Altering the kind of stitch & varying the combinations, increasing and decreasing forms all shapes & patterns, eg. shell stitch is formed by working 1dc in next st, miss 2 sts, 5tr in next st, miss 2sts, 1dc in next st[fig. 31] Fig. 31 CROCHETING IN ROWS Crochet a foundation row of chain, add extra chain to form the height of the stitch. This turning ch almost always counts as the first stitch. You may be instructed to miss a no. of stitches at start of the first row. This will also form the correct stitch height. This table shows the equivalent amount of chain to form the height of each stitch. Double crochet [dc].1ch Half treble [htr].2ch Treble [tr].3ch Double treble [dtr]..4ch Triple treble [triptr]...5ch Quadruple treble [quadtr] 6ch Quintuple treble [quintr]..7ch 30

31 Eg. Crochet a foundation row of trebles, turn your work, work three chain to form the height of a treble. This turning chain forms the first stitch of the next row. Miss the last st of the previous row and work the next tr into the top of the next treble. [Fig. 32] Work along the row to the last tr. Work this tr into the top of the turning chain. [3 rd of 1 st 3ch of previous row] Fig. 32 If the turning chain DOES NOT count as the first stitch at the start of a row, then you work into the last stitch of the previous row. Do not work a stitch into the turning chain at the end of the row. The pattern should give precise instructions on the correct procedure to be used. Your stitches should have a smooth, even look. Practice makes perfect. FINISHING OFF Cut the yarn off at about 9cm from the hook. [Fig33] Using your hook, pull this end through the last remaining loop on the hook, pull gently on the tail of yarn to tighten the end. [Fig. 34] Weave the end back through your work with a tapestry needle. 31

32 Fig. 33 Fig. 34 TO CROCHET IN ROUNDS Fig. 35 Crocheting in rounds is no more complicated than working in rows. Instead of working back and forth, you work around in a circle. Each round is joined with a slip stitch into the top of the first stitch. [Figs. 35, 36, & 37] Don t turn your work between rounds, unless the pattern states otherwise. Work each stitch under the two top threads of the stitch of the previous round. The no. of stitches in each round is increased evenly to accommodate the growing circumference of your work. 32

33 Fig. 36 This round motif is worked in treble only. This pattern shows you the most common method for creating a centre ring, which is the basis for all rounds,[just like the foundation chain you use when working in rows]. It then shows how to work rounds of stitches off of this centre ring. Crochet 5ch, join with a sl st to form a ring. Round 1. 3ch [to count as 1 st st]. Work 12tr into space in centre of ring. Join with a sl st into the 3 rd ch of the initial 3ch. [13 stitches] Round 2. Work this round increasing in every stitch as follows - 3ch, 1tr in same place as sl st, 2tr in each of the following tr. Join with a sl st into 3 rd of 1 st three ch.[26 stitches] Continue increasing evenly as follows - Round 3. 3ch,*2tr in next tr, 1tr in next tr, repeat from*to last st, 2tr in last st. Join with a sl st into the 3 rd ch of the initial 3ch.[39 tr] Every second stitch was increased by working an extra stitch into it. Most patterns give clear instructions on when to increase and what method to use. This is always done evenly to allow the crocheting to remain flat. The right side will be easily distinguishable from the wrong side. The illustration [Fig. 37], shows the right side. 33

34 Fig. 37 CLUSTERS AND POPCORNS Fig. 38 Clusters can consist of two to six stitches, and may be worked into a space, into one stitch, or into several stitches. They may also be made by working each tr into a different stitch. This gives a triangle shaped group. 34

35 A four double treble cluster into four stitches. Leaving last loop of each stitch on hook, work 1dtr into each of the next 4 stitches, yarn over hook and pull through all 5 remaining loops on hook.[fig.38] Fig. 39 A 3tr cluster worked into one stitch. Leaving the last loop of each stitch on the hook, work 3tr into one stitch, yarn over hook [Fig. 39], pull through all loops on hook [Fig. 40]. FIG

36 A 3dtr cluster worked into a space. Leaving the last loop of each stitch on the hook, work 3dtr into the space of the previous row, yarn over hook, and pull through all 4 remaining loops on hook [Fig. 41]. Fig. 41 Popcorns are nicely rounded, compact oval stitches that stand out from the fabric. Various numbers and combinations of stitches can be used. For even more variety, you can work Popcorn so that they pop to either the front or back of your work. Fig

37 Popcorns consist of a group of three or more stitches worked into the same stitch on the previous row.[fig. 42] Fig. 43 Work 3tr into the same stitch [Fig. 42], remove the hook from the loop, push the hook into the top of the first tr of the 3tr, then into the loop [Fig. 43]. Pull the loop through the first tr. Popcorns are often followed and/or preceded by 2 or 3 chain to accentuate the stitch. Fig

38 FILET CROCHET Filet Crochet is much simpler than it looks, and so is great for beginners. This lace net effect is created by working blocks of stitches and spaces. Making a space Miss 2sts, 2ch, 1tr into next stitch. The 2ch and missed stitches form the space and the tr finishes the space. Making a block Work a group[normally three] of trebles to form the solid section of the pattern before and after the space. [Fig. 45] If double treble are used instead of treble, the space would be made with 3ch instead of 2ch. Filet designs are a grid of blocks and spaces. Spaces form the background and blocks create the design. Patterns for these designs are shown on charts. Because of it s detail, Filet Crochet is often used for lettering. Fig

39 MOTIFS Motifs are small patterned shapes which when joined together form larger pieces of crochet, eg. rugs, tablecloths, runners, doilies, bedspreads etc. The motif size will depend on the size of yarn and hook used as shown on the table on page 4. The most popular motif is the granny square. Often worked in mixed colours, they are a very good way to use up left over yarn. The motifs are usually crocheted in 8ply yarn and joined together to make rugs. Granny Square Motif:- [Fig. 46] is a knee rug, worked in 8ply yarn with a 3.50mm hook. With M, work 5ch and join with a sl st to form a ring. 1 st round 3ch, 2tr into ring. [1ch, 3tr into ring]3times, 1ch, 1ss into 3 rd of 3ch. Fasten off. 2 nd round Attach C1 to any corner 1ch space. 3ch, [2tr, 1ch, 3tr] into same place as join, [1ch, 3tr, 1ch, 3tr] into each of next three 1ch sp. 1ch, 1ss into 3 rd of three chain. Fasten off. 3 rd round Attach C2 to any corner 1ch space, 3ch [2tr, 1ch, 3tr] into same place as join,*1ch 3tr into next 1ch space. [1ch, 3tr] twice into corner 1ch space, rep. from*twice more, end with 1ch, 3 tr into last 1ch space, 1ch, ss into 3 rd of 3ch. Fasten off. 4 th round Attach C3 to any corner 1ch space,. Continue in this fashion until motif is the desired size. In [Fig. 46] the motifs consist of 14 rounds. Make as many motifs as required for the size rug you desire. Then crochet or sew them together on the wrong side. Once the rug is assembled, work 2 rounds around the perimeter as if the rug were one large, single motif, then finish off with a shell edge as shown in [Fig. 31]. This is one of the simplest patterns for a beginner to master, being done in 8ply yarn and using the basic stitches. 39

40 Fig. 46 LAUNDERING AND CARING FOR CROCHET If you take into account the many hours you have invested in creating your finished item, taking the time to properly care for, launder and store it should be an important consideration. Most yarns today come with washing instructions on the label. Remember though that extra care must be taken with crocheted items compared with knitted ones because of the way the stitches are created, longer and looser, as a rule, and more prone to stretching. Also, never hang a piece of crochet to store it. The stretching of the stitches that results, can totally ruin the item. Always fold carefully and lay flat in a drawer or on a shelf. Keep all your work in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, ultra-violet light, excessive humidity and extreme temperature changes. If the yarn is washable [not dry-clean only], hand washing with a gentle soap [not detergent], made for delicates, is the safest option. Some lukewarm water and a small amount of soap, wash gently, then rinse thoroughly. Squeeze gently to remove excess water, blot with soft absorbent towels and then lay flat to 40

41 dry. Whenever your item gets wet, it will need reshaping. Blocking with starch towel edges & pillowcases require only a very light starch or they will be too scratchy to use. Heavy spray or liquid starch is necessary for doilies and filet crochet, so as to maintain the correct shape and display the stitches properly. To permanently stiffen three dimensional designs, art work etc., commercial fabric stiffener is available from craft stores. Spray Starch After washing and blotting moisture with a clean dry towel, spray one side of your article with starch. Using rust-free pins, pin your design [starched side down], to shape, onto a suitable blocking surface [foam board, ironing board]. Spray the other side of the item, until lightly soaked. Allow to dry completely. Liquid Starch gives more range to the desired amount of stiffness required. Use the instructions on the box as a guide to how strong you need to make the solution. Completely immerse your item in the liquid and allow starch to be absorbed for a few minutes. Follow the guidelines as for Spray starch, to pin and block your design. Blot any excess liquid from your item, before leaving it to dry. Commercial Fabric Stiffener Follow steps as for liquid starch. Most patterns give detailed directions on how to achieve the desired finish, and how to shape your individual article. NOW! CHECK OUT YOUR FREE BONUSES 20 Vintage Crochet Patterns Abbreviations 100s of Needlecraft Patterns PLUS SURPRISE SUPER BONUS!!!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! YOU HAVE EVERTTHING YOU NEED TO BE A SUCCESSFUL CROCHET EXPERT. HAPPY CROCHETING!!! 41

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