Delft. Crochet Blanket

Transcription

1 Delft Crochet Blanket 1

2 I have always been a lover of blue and cream pottery. When I was a child we would often visit my elderly Auntie for afternoon tea and so were used to seeing the Willow Pattern on sandwich plates and teacups. The Willow Pattern featured an elaborate chinoiserie pattern that was popular towards the end of the 18th Century. Despite having an oriental style of design, pottery featuring the Willow Pattern originally came from Stoke On Trent in the UK, but a lot of pottery featuring the design also came from China via the East India Company. Delftware from The Netherlands, which also features cream and blue designs, was in existence far earlier than it s Stoke On Trent counterpart. Delftware often features flowers and birds and is famous for it s quality and intricate designs. I have wanted to use Delftware as the inspiration for a crochet design for a while, but until now it wasn t easy to find enough good shades of blue within a yarn collection, so I was really pleased to see so many blues make an appearance in the Millamia range. This beautifully soft Merino yarn, with it s slightly matt appearance and quality feel is just perfect for the design and I am so pleased with the outcome of this blanket. I hope you will enjoy making it too. 2

3 Dealing with yarn ends: Sewing yarn ends in as you go along makes the finishing process much easier and means that you are less likely to lose stitches or make errors with tension. Tension Each block should measure 21.5cm (8½ in) at the widest point pre-blocking. It is important that you achieve the correct tension. If your pieces come up larger you could run out of yarn and be unable to complete your project. If your blocks come out bigger then your tension is too loose so try a smaller hook. If your blocks are significantly smaller then your tension is too tight, so try a larger hook. Measurements Pre-blocked Measurement: 84cm (33in) x 127cm (50in) Blocked Measurement: 91cm (35¾in) x 136cm (53½in) Yarn Millamia Naturally Soft Merino DK 125m (136 yds) per 50g ball A Snow (124) 6 balls B Fawn (160) 3 balls C Sky Blue (126) 4 balls D Seaside (161) 6 balls E Tempest Blue (167) 5 balls F Ink Blue (106) 2 balls Equipment 3.5mm (US E/4) and 4mm (US G/6) crochet hooks please see Tension notes Locking stitch markers Yarn needle Pattern Notes This pattern is written using UK terminology use the chart below for the US equivalents: UK US chain ch chain ch slip stitch ss slip stitch ss double crochet dc single crochet sc treble crochet tr double crochet double treble crochet dc dtr treble crochet tr Fastening off and re-joining yarn: You will achieve a much neater colour change if you fasten off the yarn as you complete rounds, rather than joining the new colour mid-stitch. When fastening off a yarn at the end of a round, the slip stitch made can look like a stitch when working the following round, so take care to count correctly and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working subsequent rounds. Note The completed blanket is made from a total of 33 full motifs and 4 half motifs. The motifs are all made using 6 shades of yarn, but the colour order for the motifs differs and there are 3 different sequences for yarn use. I have called the motifs either, Dark, Medium or Light and you need to make the following number of each motif: Dark (make these first): 7 Medium: 14 Light: 12 The pattern is written for the Dark Motifs. You will find a list of yarn shade substitutions for the other motifs at the end of the motif pattern. 3

4 Method Delft Motif Dark (make 7) Using yarn (A) and 3.5mm hook, make 4ch, join with a ss to form a ring. ROUND 1: 1ch (does not count as a st), 8dc into ring, ss to join. (8 sts) ROUND 2: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into next st, 2ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st, 2ch, skip next st; repeat from to end, ss to join, fasten off. (4dc & 4ch-sps) ROUND 3: Using yarn (B), join yarn into any 2ch-sp by working 1ch (does not count as a st) 3dc into same ch-sp, 1ch, 3dc into next ch-sp, 1ch; repeat from to end, ss to join, fasten off. (12dc & 4ch-sps) ROUND 4: Using yarn (F), join yarn into any 1ch-sp made on previous round by working 1ch, 2dc into same ch-sp, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next ch-sp; repeat from to end, omitting 2dc into ch-sp on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. (24 sts) Cluster (tr3tog): Make a cluster as follows: Yarn over hook, insert hook into required ch-sp (or stitch), yarn over hook, draw through the ch-sp (or stitch), yarn over hook, draw so that through 2 yarn loops 2 loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook, insert hook into same ch-sp (or st); repeat from to so that 3 yarn loops remain on the hook; repeat from to a final time so that 4 yarn loops remain on the hook, yarn over hook, draw through all 4 loops to leave 1 loop on hook. You will also find the instruction tr2tog. In this pattern this is worked after 3ch as the first 3ch count as the first step of the tr3tog. Round 6 Round 7 Round 8 Round 9 Measurement: approx. 3.5cm (1½in) diameter. ROUND 5: Using yarn (E), join yarn into st in line with central dc of any 3dc group made on Round 3 by working 1ch, 1dc into same st, 1dc into each st to end, ss to join. (24 sts) ROUND 6: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 5ch, 1dc into same st, 2ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st, 2ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st; repeat from to end, omitting 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. (6 5ch-sps & 12 2ch-sps) ROUND 7: Using yarn (A), join yarn into any 5ch-sp made on previous round by working 1ch + 2ch, tr2tog into same ch-sp (counts as tr3tog), [3ch, tr3tog into same ch-sp] twice, 2ch, tr3tog into next 5ch-sp; repeat from to end, omitting last tr3tog on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 8: Using yarn (D), join yarn into any 2ch-sp made on previous round by working 1ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 4dc into next ch-sp, dc2tog over same ch-sp & next ch-sp, 3ch, ss into st at base of 3ch to make picot, 4dc into same ch-sp as second step of dc2tog made before picot, 1dc into next ch-sp, working in Round 10 4

5 Round 11 Round 12 Round 13 Round 14 front of previous round work tr2tog over next 2 ch-sps made on Round 6, 1dc into same ch-sp; repeat from to end, omitting last 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. Measurement: approx cm (3¾ 4in) diameter. ROUND 9: Using yarn (F), join yarn into top of any tr2tog made on previous round by working 1ch + 2ch (counts as 1tr), 4tr into same st, 5ch, 1dc into centre of next 3ch picot, 3ch, 1dc into ch-sp at base of 3ch to make loop, 5ch, 5tr into top of next tr2tog; repeat from 4 times, then repeat from to once, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 10: Using yarn (E), join yarn into centre of any 3ch loop by working 1ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 5ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr into next tr, 1tr into each next 3sts, 2tr into next st, 3ch, 1dc into centre of next 3ch loop; repeat from omitting last 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 11: Using yarn (A), join yarn into top of central tr of any 7tr group made on previous round by working 1ch, 1dc into same st, 4ch, working over the top of the ch made on previous round and the ch made on Round 9 work 3dc into next pair of ch-sps, 4ch behind 5ch loop, 3dc into next pair of ch-sps made on previous 2 rounds, 4ch, skip 3tr, 1dc into next st (central tr of 7tr group); repeat from to end, omitting last 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 12: Using yarn (C), join yarn into any 5ch loop made on Round 10 by working 1ch + 2ch, tr2tog into same ch-sp, [3ch, tr3tog into same ch-sp] twice, skip 1dc, 1dc into next st, 1ch, working in front of previous round [1dc into top of next tr made on Round 10, 2ch, skip next st] three times, 1dc into top of next tr made on Round 10, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1dc into next st, tr3tog into next 5ch-sp; repeat from 5 times, omitting last tr3tog on final repeat, 3ch, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 13: Using yarn (D) and working behind any group of clusters (tr3tog) made on previous round, join yarn into 4ch-sp made behind ch loop on Round 11 by working 1ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 3ch, skip next dc made on previous round, 1dc into next 1ch-sp, [1dc, 3tr, 1dc into next ch-sp] 3 times, 1dc into next 1ch-sp, 3ch, working behind next group of clusters made on previous round work 1dc into next 4ch-sp made on Round 11; repeat from to end, omitting last 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 14: Using yarn (F), join yarn into st sp made between any 1dc & first cluster of 3 cluster group made on Round 12 by working 1ch, 1dc into same st sp, 4dc into next ch-sp, dc2tog over same ch-sp & next ch-sp, 4dc into same ch-sp, 1dc into next st sp between cluster & 1dc made on Round 12, working behind petals made on previous round [3ch, 1dc into next ch-sp made on Row 11] twice, 3ch, 1dc into st sp made between 1dc & next cluster made on Round 12; repeat from to end, omitting last dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 15: Using yarn (E), join yarn into top of any dc2tog made on previous round by working 1ch + 2ch (counts as 1tr) 4tr into same st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1htr into next st, 3tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 2dc into next ch-sp, [3ch, 1dc into next ch-sp] twice, 1dc into same ch-sp, 1htr into next st, 3tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1htr into next st, 5tr into next st; repeat from to end, omitting 5tr on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. (144 sts) Round 15 5

6 ROUND 16: Using yarn (F), join yarn into 3ch-sp made before any petal on previous round by working 1ch, 2dc into same ch-sp, skip next st, dc3tog over next 3sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into next st, 2dc into each next 3sts, 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, dc3tog over next 3sts, skip next st, [2dc into next ch-sp] twice; repeat from to end, omitting last 2dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. (144 sts) ROUND 17: Using yarn (A), join yarn into top of 2nd dc of 2dc group made at point of any petal on previous round by working 1ch, 3dc into same st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 1htr into next st, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1tr into each next 3sts, dtr2tog over next 2sts, 1dtr into each next 3sts, dtr2tog over next 2sts, 1tr into each next 3sts, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1htr into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 3dc into next st; repeat from to end, omitting 3dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. (132 sts) Round 16 Round 17 ROUND 18: Using yarn (B), join yarn into top of central dc of any 3dc group made at tip of petal on previous round by working 1ch, 3dc into same st, 1dc into each next 7sts, 1htr into each next 7sts, 1dc into each next 7sts, 3dc into next st (this should be central dc of 3dc group made on previous round); repeat from to end, omitting 3dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off. (144 sts) Pre-blocked Measurement: approx. 21.5cm (8½in) at widest point. Sew in all ends. Block and press. Delft Motif Dark Round 18 6

7 Delft Motif Medium (make 14) Using yarn (F) work as Delft Motif Dark to end of Round 2. ROUND 3: Yarn (D). ROUND 4: Yarn (E). ROUNDS 5 & 6: Yarn (B). ROUND 7: Yarn (E). ROUND 8: Yarn (A). ROUND 9: Yarn (F). ROUND 10: Yarn (E). ROUND 11: Yarn (A). ROUND 12: Yarn (C). ROUND 13: Yarn (D). ROUND 14: Yarn (E). ROUND 15: Yarn (D). ROUND 16: Yarn (E). ROUND 17: Yarn (A). ROUND 18: Yarn (B). Delft Motif Light (make 12) Using yarn (C) work as Delft Motif Dark to end of Round 2. ROUND 3: Yarn (E). ROUND 4: Yarn (F). ROUNDS 5 & 6: Yarn (A). ROUND 7: Yarn (D). ROUND 8: Yarn (A). ROUND 9: Yarn (E). ROUND 10: Yarn (D). ROUND 11: Yarn (A). ROUND 12: Yarn (C). ROUND 13: Yarn (D). ROUND 14: Yarn (B). ROUND 15: Yarn (C). ROUND 16: Yarn (D). ROUND 17: Yarn (A). ROUND 18: Yarn (B). Delft Motif Light Round 18 Delft Motif Medium Round 18 7

8 Delft Half Motif Medium (make 4) Using yarn (F) and 3.5mm hook make 2ch. ROW 1: Skip 1ch, 5dc into next ch, turn. (5 sts) ROW 2: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into next st, [2ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st] twice, fasten off, turn. (3dc & 2ch-sps) ROW 3 (RS FACING): Using yarn (D), join yarn into top of first dc by working 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into same st, 3dc into next ch-sp, 1ch, 3dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next dc, fasten off, do not turn. (8dc) ROW 4 (RS FACING): Using yarn (E), join yarn into top of first dc made on previous row by working 1ch (does not count as a st), 2dc into same st, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next ch-sp, [1dc into next st, 2dc into next st] twice, fasten off, do not turn. (14 sts) Measurement: approx. 3.5cm (1½in) at widest point. ROW 5: Using yarn (B), join yarn into top of first dc made on previous row by working 1ch (does not count as a st), skip st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each st to end, turn. (13 sts) ROW 6 (WS FACING): 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 5ch, 1dc into same st, 2ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st, 2ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st; repeat from twice, 5ch, 1dc into same st, fasten off, turn. (4 2ch-sps & 6 2ch-sps) ROW 7 (RS FACING): Using yarn (E), join yarn into first 5ch-sp made on previous row by working 1ch + 2ch, tr2tog into same ch-sp (counts as tr3tog) 3ch, tr3tog into same ch-sp, 2ch, [tr3tog, 3ch into next 5ch-sp] twice, tr3tog into same ch-sp; repeat from, 2ch tr3tog into next 5ch-sp, 3ch, tr3tog into same ch-sp, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 8 (RS FACING): Using yarn (A), join yarn into top of first tr3tog made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 1dc into same st, 3ch, ss into st at base of 3ch to make picot, 4dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next ch-sp, working in front of previous row work tr2tog over next 2 ch-sps made on Row 6, 1dc into same ch-sp, 4dc into next ch-sp, dc2tog over same ch-sp & next ch-sp, 3ch, ss into st at base of 3ch to make picot, 4dc into same ch-sp as second step of dc2tog made before picot, 1dc into next ch-sp, working in front of previous round work tr2tog into next 2 ch-sps made on Round 6, 1dc into same ch-sp; repeat from, 4dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into top next tr3tog, 3ch, ss into st at base of 3ch to make picot, fasten off, do not turn. Measurement: approx cm (4 4¼in) at widest point. ROW 9 (RS FACING): Using yarn (F), join yarn into centre of first picot made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 3ch, 1dc into ch-sp at base of 3ch to make loop, 5ch, 5tr into top of next tr3tog, 5ch, 1dc into centre of next 3ch picot, 3ch, 1dc into ch-sp at base of 3ch to make loop; repeat from to end, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 10 (RS FACING): Using yarn (E), join yarn into centre of first 3ch loop made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 5ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, 3ch, 2tr into next tr, 1tr into each next 3sts, 2tr into next st, 3ch, 1dc into centre of next 3ch loop; repeat from twice, 5ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 11 (RS FACING): Using yarn (A) and working over the top of the ch made on previous row and the ch made on Row 9, at the same time join yarn into first pair of ch-sps made to the left side of the first ch loop made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 3dc into same pair of ch-sps, 4ch, skip 3tr, 1dc into next st (central tr of 7tr group) 4ch, 3dc into next pair of ch-sps, 4ch behind 5ch loop, 3dc into next pair of ch-sps; repeat from once more, 4ch, skip 3tr, 1dc into next st (central tr of 7tr group), 4ch, 3dc into next pair of ch-sps, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 12 (RS FACING): Using yarn (C), join yarn into first 5ch loop made at the beginning of Row 10 by working 1ch + 2ch, tr2tog into same ch-sp, 3ch, tr3tog into same ch-sp, skip 1dc, 1dc into next st, 1ch, working in front of previous row [1dc into top of next tr made on Row 10, 2ch, skip next st] three times, 1dc into top 8

9 of next tr made on Row 10, 1ch, skip 1dc, 1dc into next st, [tr3tog, 3ch into next ch-sp] twice; repeat from to end, omitting 3ch on final pattern repeat, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 13 (RS FACING): Using yarn (D), join yarn into 1ch-sp after 2nd tr3tog & 1dc made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 1dc into same ch-sp, [1dc, 3tr, 1dc into next ch-sp] 3 times, 1dc into next 1ch-sp, 3ch, working behind next group of clusters made on previous row work 1dc into next 4ch-sp made on Row 11, 3ch, skip next dc made on previous row, 1dc into next 1ch-sp; repeat from once more, [1dc, 3tr, 1dc into next ch-sp] 3 times, 1dc into next 1ch-sp, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 14 (RS FACING): Using yarn (E), join yarn into top of first tr3tog made at beginning Row 12 by working 1ch, 1dc into same st, 4dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st sp between cluster & 1dc made on Row 12, working behind petals made on previous row [3ch, 1dc into ch-sp made on Row 11] twice, 3ch, 1dc into st sp made between 1dc & next cluster made on Row 12, 4dc into next ch-sp, dc2tog working 1 st into same ch-sp & 1 st into next ch-sp, 4dc into same ch-sp; repeat from to end, finishing last repeat at, 1dc into top of tr3tog, fasten off, do not turn. next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, dc3tog over next 3sts, skip next st, [2dc into next ch-sp] twice, skip next st, dc3tog over next 3sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into next st, 2dc into each next 3sts; repeat from twice more, ending last repeat at 3dc into next st, fasten off, do not turn. (70 sts) ROW 17 (RS FACING): Using yarn (A), join yarn into top of first dc made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 2dc into same st, 1dc into next st, 1htr into next st, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1tr into each next 3sts, dtr2tog over next 2sts, 1dtr into each next 3sts, dtr2tog over next 2sts, 1tr into each next 3sts, tr2tog over next 2sts, 1htr into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts; repeat from twice more, ending last repeat at, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, fasten off, do not turn. (65 sts) Round 18 ROW 18 (RS FACING): Using yarn (B), join yarn into top of first dc made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch, 1dc into same st, 1dc into each next 6sts, 1htr into each next 7sts, 1dc into each next 7sts, 3dc into next st (this should be central dc of 3dc group made on previous row), 1dc into each next 7sts; repeat from 1htr into each next 7sts, 1dc into each next 7sts, fasten off. (69 sts) Pre-blocked Measurement: approx. 22cm (8½in) at widest point. Sew in all ends. Block and press. ROW 15 (RS FACING): Using yarn (D), join yarn into top of first st made at beginning of previous row by working 1ch + 2ch (counts as 1tr), 2tr into same st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1htr into next st, 3tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 2dc into next ch-sp, [3ch, 1dc into next ch-sp] twice, 1dc into same ch-sp, 1htr into next st, 3tr into next st, 1htr into next st, 1dc into next st, 1htr into next st, 5tr into next st; repeat from to end, omitting 3 of the 5tr on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off, do not turn. ROW 16 (RS FACING): Using yarn (E), skip 3ch made at beginning of previous row, join yarn into top of next tr by working 1ch, 2dc into same st, 1dc into 9

10 Making Up Lay motifs out in order using the chart as a guide. Using yarn (B) & 4mm hook, join motifs using slip stitch on the reverse side of the work, matching stitch for stitch on each motif and using corner stitches more than once so that all stitches are joined. Key Delft Motif Dark, see page 4. Delft Motif Medium, see page 7. Delft Motif Light, see page 7. Delft Half Motif Medium, see page 8. 10

11 Edging ROUND 1 (RS FACING): Working along the short flat edge, using yarn (A) & 3.5mm hook, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group made at top right corner by working 1ch, 3dc into same st, 1dc into each next 24sts working last dc into central dc of 3dc group made at next corner, skip seam, working along side edge of next half motif work 22dc to centre point of motif, 1dc into ring at centre of half motif, 22dc along remaining side of half motif, skip seam, 1dc into each next 25sts along next motif working 1dc into central dc of 3dc groups made at each corner; repeat from once more, 2dc into same st, place marker into last st. (169 sts along first edge). Do not fasten off. Continue along side edge (zigzag edge), working 1dc into each next 23sts, 3dc into next st (this should be central st of 3dc group), 1dc into each next 23sts, dc2tog over each next 2 corner sts (central sts of 3dc groups) on same motif and next motif skipping the seam in between, 1dc into each next 23sts; repeat from 5 times more, 3dc into next st (this should be central st of 3dc group), 1dc into each next 23sts. (299 sts from marked st). Do not fasten off. You have worked along 2 edges. Repeat as set for remaining 2 edges, ss to join, fasten off. (936 sts total) Round 2: Using yarn (E) & 3.5mm hook, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group made at opposite top right corner by working 1ch, 3dc into same st, 1ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st, 1ch, skip next st; repeat from to next corner st (central dc of 3dc group), 3dc into next st, [1ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st] 13 times, 2dc into same st. Do not fasten off. Continue along side edge (zigzag edge), [1ch, skip next st, 1dc into next st] 11 times, 1ch, skip next st, dc2tog over next 3sts skipping central st made on previous round, 1ch, skip next st, [1dc into next st, 1ch, skip next st] 11 times, 3dc into next st; repeat from 5 times more, 1ch, skip next st, [1dc into next st, 1ch, skip next st] to next corner st (central dc of 3dc group). You have worked along 2 edges. Repeat as set for remaining 2 edges, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 3: Using yarn (D) & 3.5mm hook, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group made at opposite top right corner by working 1ch, 3dc into same st, 1ch, skip next st, 1dc into next ch-sp, 1ch, skip next st; repeat from to next corner st (central dc of 3dc group) 3dc into next st, [1ch, skip next st, 1dc into next ch-sp] 14 times, 2dc into same st. Do not fasten off. Continue along side edge (zigzag edge), [1ch, skip next st, 1dc into next ch-sp] 11 times, 1ch, skip next st, dc2tog over next 2ch-sps, 1ch, skip next st, [1dc into next ch-sp,1ch, skip next st] 11 times, 3dc into next st; repeat from 5 times more, 1ch, skip next st, [1dc into next ch-sp, 1ch, skip next st] to next corner st (central dc of 3dc group). You have worked along 2 edges. Repeat as set for remaining 2 edges, ss to join, fasten off. ROUND 4: Using yarn (C) & 3.5mm hook, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group made at opposite top right corner by working 1ch, 3dc into same st, 1dc into next st, 1dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st; repeat from to next corner st (central dc of 3dc group), 3dc into next st, 1dc into next st, [1dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st] 14 times, 3dc into next st (central dc of 3dc group). Do not fasten off. 11

12 Continue along side edge (zigzag edge), 1dc into next st, [1dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st] 11 times, dc2tog over next 2ch-sps, 1dc into next st, [1dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st] 11 times, 3dc into next st; repeat from 5 times more, 1dc into next st, 1dc into next ch-sp, 1dc into next st; repeat from to next corner st (central dc of 3dc group). You have worked along 2 edges. Repeat as set for remaining 2 edges, ss to join, do not fasten off, turn. Note: On the next round you are going to work a round of slip stitches (ss). Slip stitches tend to be slightly tighter in tension than your other stitches, so in this instance the stitches are meant to give you a slightly tighter finish to the edge of the blanket. If you find that your stitches are coming up too tight, either try to work looser or use a larger hook size. ROUND 5 (WS FACING): 1ch, skip st at base of 1ch, 1ss into each st to end, ss to join, fasten off. Blocking and Washing Once your project has been put together I suggest you wash it. I find that washing a completed piece can make a really big difference to the finished appearance of it. Seams become flatter and stitches become more even and (as you can s ee from the pre blocked and blocked measurements of the project) it also makes a difference to the size of the project. I always hand wash my knit and crochet items in a liquid specially formulated for that purpose, such as Woolite or Soak. It is wise to avoid biological liquids or powders as they can contain brighteners, which can destroy the yarn fibres, cause bobbles and shade changes. Once the piece is washed, gently pin it out on a bath towel or large soft flat surface to dry. Don t place in direct sunlight or over a radiator and do not tumble dry. Sew in all ends. Acknowledgement: The very talented Deborah Mather expertly and beautifully crocheted our version of the Delft blanket. WEBSITE: mail@janiecrow.co.uk Jane Crowfoot All rights reserved. This pattern and items created from it are for personal use only. Commercial use of either the patterns or the items made from them is strictly prohibited. Please respect the copyright and do not pass either digitally or otherwise to another person. 12