Intro to Sewing with Knit Fabrics

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Lawrence Ethan Bryant
5 years ago
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1 Intro to Sewing with Knit Fabrics - Fitting guide: Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) and Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) for princess seams (Emma Dress only) - What is a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA)? An FBA involves altering a pattern to increase the bust area and fit a fuller cup size. The bodice of a pattern is adjusted, enlarging the bust area without increasing the size of the bodice overall. Do I need an FBA? The Emma Dress is designed for a B cup bust, as are most other commercial patterns, so if your cup size is bigger than this it is worth checking whether you need an FBA. Another sign that you might need an FBA is that typically garments you buy from the shops or other patterns you ve made are too tight around the bust area. Also your bust measurement may fall into a larger size on the chart than your waist. How do I measure myself for an FBA? First you need to measure yourself to find out what bodice size you should cut out. This is based on your waist and upper bust measurements. For example, if your upper bust measures 36.5 and your waist 30 you would cut out a size 12.

2 Secondly measure your full bust and check this measurement against the size chart. For example, if your bust measures 38.5, this is 1.5 greater than the body measurement at the bust for a size 12 ( = 1.5 ). Divide this figure by two (to calculate the amount to increase for each side of the bust). Note this number down as this is how much you will need to open the bust area of the bodice. What is a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA)? An SBA involves altering a pattern to reduce the bust area and fit a smaller cup size. The bodice of a pattern is adjusted, reducing the bust area without decreasing the size of the bodice overall. Do I need an SBA? The Emma Dress is designed for a B cup bust, as are most other commercial patterns, so if your cup size is smaller than this it is worth checking whether you need a SBA. Another sign that you might need a SBA is that typically garments you buy from the shops or other patterns you ve made are too loose around the bust area. Also your bust measurement may fall into a smaller size on the chart than your waist. How do I measure myself for an SBA? First you need to measure yourself to find out what bodice size you should cut out. This is based on your waist and upper bust measurements (see our Measuring Yourself PDF and video for where this is on your body). For example, if your upper bust measures 34.5 and your waist 30 you would cut out a size 12. Secondly measure your full bust and check this measurement against the size chart. For example, if your bust measures 36.5, this is 0.5 smaller than the body measurement at the bust for a size 12 ( = 0.5 ). Divide this figure by two (to calculate the amount to increase for each side of the bust). Note this number down as this is how much you will need to close the bust area of the bodice.

3 How do I alter my pattern for a FBA/SBA? You will need the following materials: - Tracing paper - Ruler or Pattern Master - Pen - Paper scissors - Tape - Tracing wheel Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) Preparing the pattern Trace your pattern size and cut out as normal, remembering to mark any notches.

4 1. Mark on the centre front and side front bodice panels the seam allowance along the curved princess seam edge. Also mark on the side front bodice panel the seam allowance along the armhole seam (red lines) (1.5cm). 2. Take the side front panel and draw a vertical line from the waist up to the fullest part of the bust. Start and finish touching the seam allowance created in step 1 (Line 1). 3. Add a second line drawing diagonally from the fullest point of the bust to the armhole, as marked in the illustration (Line 2). 4. Draw a third line from the fullest point of the bust towards the side seam (Line 3). 5. Draw a fourth line approximately 1 /2.5cm up from the waistline towards the curved princess seam edge (Line 4).

5 6. From the waist to the armhole, cut along lines 1 and 2, pivoting at the fullest part of the bust. Stop cutting at the seam allowance near the armhole. 7. Next cut from the armhole to the seam allowance, creating a pivot point. 8. Cut along line 3 from the side seam towards the fullest part of the bust, but stop just before to create an additional pivot point. 9. Tape down the curved edge of the princess seam and pull open the pattern piece by the amount you calculated in How do I measure myself for an FBA? Draw a line to help position the pattern pieces to increase the size of side front panel accurately. 10. Cut up and across line 4 and reposition this piece of the panel in line with the waist seam. Tape in place.

6 11. Redraw line 3 from the side seam to the bust along the top of the dart (created in step 9). Cut along the new line 3 from both sides, stopping either side of the new bust point. 12. Close the dart, creating additional fullness along the curved edge of the princess seam. Rejoin the lines along the curved edge of the princess seam. 13. Next reduce the width of the pattern piece at the waist, to keep it the same as it was originally. To do this, redraw the side seam, reducing the waist by the amount you increased for the full bust adjustment (blue line).

7 14. Finally alter the centre front panel. Draw lines across the centre front panel to match line 4 and the new line 3. Cut along these lines. Open the pattern piece at lines 3 and 4 to match the side front panel. Check you are increasing the pattern piece correctly by measuring along the seam allowance line. If you want to check you are happy with the pattern changes, we recommend you make an additional toile. You have finished your FBA and can resume sewing!

8 Small Bust Adjustment (FBA) Preparing the pattern Trace your pattern size and cut out as normal, remembering to mark any notches. To accurately alter the Emma dress for a SBA, we recommend you make a toile out of similar fabric. 1. Mark on the side front bodice panel the seam allowance along the side seam (1.5cm) (red line). 2. Draw a line across the side front bodice panel at the fullest part of the bust (blue line 1). Draw a line across the centre front bodice panel to match line 1 (blue line 2). 3. Cut across line 2. Cut from both sides of line 1, stopping either side of the seam allowance line, to create a pivot point.

9 4. Reduce the length of the centre front and side front bodice pieces by overlapping the sections of the cut pattern pieces. The amount you need to do this by depends on how much extra length you want to remove from the toile you made. Redraw the curved line of the princess seam edge for both the side front and centre front panels (blue line).

amount. Trim this excess away from your pattern pieces.

10 5. Next, to reduce the fullness across the widest point of the bust, take your calculated measurement. Divide this measurement again by two. Redraw the curved edge of the princess seam at the fullest part of the bust, reducing both the centre front and side front panel pieces by this amount. Trim this excess away from your pattern pieces. If you want to check you are happy with the pattern changes, we recommend you make an additional toile. You have finished your SBA and can resume sewing! For even more guidance on techniques, please see our blog or YouTube channel :

Location of Bust Fullness

E-388 05-06 Pattern Alteration Location of Bust Fullness Before attempting this alteration, study Extension publications E-372, Principles of Pattern Alteration, and E-373, Personal Measurement Chart,