How To s. How To s. Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 1 of 14

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1 How To s 1 Arches (bendable lauan): 1. Bendable lauan is also know as Bendable Plywood or Wiggle Board. 2. This type board is used on an arch window or eyebrow arch window. (An eyebrow arch is shown in this example.) 3. Lauan is a plywood type board & can be special ordered from your local lumber yard, or check your local home improvement stores. Bendable lauan is available in a 4 x 8 sheet & in ¼" & d" thickness. 4. TIP: Pre-cut 4" or 6" x 96" L Bendable Plywood is available from Rowley. (purchase Bendable Plywood from Rowley see Sources) 5. To splice bendable lauan: For large arches, butt two strips of lauan together & glue with wood glue, then use d" staples on front and back to secure joint. (see dia. 1) 6. Cut a face board from d" plywood 5" or 6" wide in the shape of arch. (see dia. 2) 7. Cut d" bendable lauan the width of return needed for treatment & length needed to curve around the arch. (bendable lauan is dust cover) 8. Use 1½" nails, 1d" staples or screws to secure shaped plywood to bendable lauan. (A brad nailer or staple gun can be used.) 9. Cover plywood face with blackout lining. Cover inside area of bendable lauan with straight strip of blackout lining. 10. Attach treatment to bendable lauan using a staple gun. Use gimp to cover all inside edges. 11. Cover top of bendable lauan with face fabric. Add a layer of interlining under face fabric cover to soften edges of treatment. Welting can be added to edge of arch. Turn edges of face fabric under & press, then glue to top of arch. 12. If treatment is heavy, 1 x 2 or 1 x 4 blocks can be used inside of arch to add strength. 2 Arches (kerfing): 1. Kerfing is the process of making evenly spaced cuts in a piece of wood to make it bendable. Kerfing is used on arch windows or eyebrow arch windows. (An arch is shown in this example.) 2. Kerfing is done by making cuts in wood with a saw blade. The more severe the radius, the closer the cuts in the wood. Saw blade cuts are within 3/16" of cutting through board. (see dia. 1 & 2) (dia. 2 has been enlarged to show kerfing) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 1 of 14

2 2 Arches (kerfing continued): 3. Spacing between kerfs on eyebrow arches are even further apart than a regular arch. a. 40" arch window & under, space kerfing cuts approx. 1½" apart b. 40" 60" arch windows, space kerfing cuts approx. 2" 2½" apart c. Eyebrow arch windows, space kerfing cuts approx. 3½" 4½" apart 4. A skill saw, table saw or radial arm saw can be used to kerf wood. 5. Formula to figure length of wood needed: Ex: 40" (FW of treatment) size of board is half the diameter which is 20" x pi (3.1416) = 62.83" or 62f" (length of board). 6. Use 1 x 4, 1 x 6, or 1 x 8 board for an outside mount; depending on layers in treatment. 7. Completely wet board before bending. Let water absorb into wood for an hour or two or until board bends easily into arch shape. Wood will crack or break if it is not soaked. 8. Use 1½" nails, 1d" staples or screws to secure shaped plywood to kerfed board. (A brad nailer or staple gun can be used.) (see dia. 3 & 4) (See Quick Tips Tools for the workroom) 9. Cover plywood face with blackout lining. Cover kerfed board with straight strip of blackout lining. (wood grain can show through regular lining) Use gimp to cover all inside edges. Cover top of kerfed board with face fabric. Add a layer of interlining under face fabric cover to soften edges of treatment. Welting can be added to top edge of arch. Turn edges of face fabric under & press, then glue to top of arch.. 3 Bay window (angles): 1. Formula for determining angle to cut: 180 minus measured bay angle, divide that number by two. (180 = straight wall) a. Example: (measured angle in bay) = 45 2 = 22½ (22½ is the angle cut) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 2 of 14

3 3 Bay window (angles) continued: 2. OPTION 1: Measure angle of bay with a cardboard protractor from Kirsch. (Form # SP-2) 3. OPTION 2: Place two index cards or business cards in corner of the bay. Overlap cards & staple them together. Outer edge represents angle of bay. Mark left & right angle. Bay windows (mounting): 1. Cut miters on all boards & draw mounting lines on each board & both returns. 2. TIP: Use 1", 1½", 2", etc. metal rules to draw mounting lines. (The width of the rule serves as the mounting line guide.) 3. Cut flap style board covers for each board; instead of adding 3", add 7" of fabric to width of each board. 4. Serge one edge of each board cover & press under 1½" for two outside board edges. (see diagram below) 5. Join boards for bay with 3" or 4" mending plates. Attach mending plates on top of boards, use one mending plate at each miter joint. Use 4" mending plates if treatment is heavy. 6. Staple serged edge of board covers to front edge of each board. At miter joint turn under excess fabric & staple. Board cover folds should meet in joints at front edge of boards. (see diagram below) 7. Staple treatment, welting or cording to front of board & around returns at mounting line. 8. Pull over flap & staple or glue as usual. At first miter joint, fold & press one side of board cover at a time making as neat as possible on top & bottom then staple or glue. At second miter joint, stop stapling or gluing 4" before miter & start 4" after miter. Fold & press board cover as if you were going to staple or glue. Leave second miter joint unfinished, for traveling purposes. Finish stapling or gluing the rest of board cover to end of treatment. 9. Unscrew one side of mending plate from second/unfinished miter joint. 10. Turn board up letting valance fall toward floor. Fold board that is not attached on top of center board. This should now be small enough to transport. 11. If vehicle can transport entire bay, finish off both miter joints. 12. At job site, reattach mending plate & staple or glue board cover. 13. A very finished look is achieved for the underneath side of board as well as the top. 14. OPTION: Dust Board Hinge Plates can be used for connecting angles in bay. (purchase Dust Board Hinge Plates from Rowley see Sources) 4 Board covers (flap style) projecting mount: (see cutting chart for flap style board cover) 1. Serge one length edge of board cover. Fold in & press 1½" on each side of board cover. Staple serged edge to front edge of board. (see dia. 1) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 3 of 14

4 4 Board covers (flap style) continued: 2. Draw mounting line on board & returns. 3. TIP: Use 1", 1½", 2", etc. metal straight edge to draw mounting lines. (Width of straight edge serves as mounting line guide.) 4. Fold remaining fabric so that fold of board cover touches welting & staple or glue. When a treatment does not have welting, bring fabric up to cover first set of staples & staple or glue. Board covers (present style) flush mount: (see cutting chart for present style board cover) 1. Present style board covers are used when a treatment does not have a return, or when treatment is going to be attached with Velcro. 2. Serge one length edge of board cover. Pull ends up & staple. (see dia. 2) 3. Pull one side of board cover up & staple to center of board. Pull serged edge over unfinished edge & staple. (see dia. 3) Fabric cuts for board covers: Flap Style Board Covers 1 x 2 6" x FW board + 3" 1 x 4 10" x FW board + 3" 1 x 6 14" x FW board + 3" 1 x 8 20" x FW board + 3" Present Style Board Covers 1 x 2 6" x FW board + 4" 1 x 4 10" x FW board + 4" 1 x 6 14" x FW board + 4" 1 x 8 20" x FW board + 4" 5 Cord locks (Conso): 1. Conso has a three cord lock (#11623) & a five cord lock (#11624). The three cord lock is for a smaller shade with a maximum width of 30" 33". The five cord lock is for a medium shade with a max. width of 43" 48". Use 1.4mm cord with cord locks. 2. Screw eyes can be used with cord locks. Using pulleys instead of screw eyes makes shades raise easier. Use pulleys for heavier shades. 3. Attach pulleys & cord lock with ¾" self drilling screws. 4. The white roller in cord lock should be toward inside of shade. Brass roller should be toward outside of shade. 5. Run each cord all the way through top of cord lock & then back in through rollers. Cords will go between white roller & brass roller. Only one cord should go into each space. (see diagram) (a three cord lock is shown in diagram) 6. To allow rollers to separate more, tilt board so that brass roller falls away from white roller. (A threader can be made from thin wire to help thread cords through rollers.) 7. This cord lock automatically locks when shade is raised. To lower shade, pull slightly on cords & cord lock will release. Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 4 of 14

5 6 Cord locks (Dofix): 1. Dofix cord locks are very small & work on any size board. (Optional Dofix bendable mount board is available from Dofix See Sources) (Dofix recommends using their pull cord #357.9mm rough faceted) 2. Rounded edge mounts toward end of board. 3. Dofix cord locks can be used for a left/right operation or a forward/backward operation. 4. Very easy cord lock to thread. (Directions come with Dofix cord locks) 7 French seams: 1. This type seam can be used on sheer fabrics, fabrics that ravel, or unlined draperies. 2. With wrong sides together, sew a scant ¼" seam. (see dia. 1) 3. Trim any long strings that might show through second stitch line. 4. Fold treatment so that right sides are together & sew a d" seam, enclosing first seam. (see dia. 2) 8 Embellishments: 1. Cut a piece of interfacing smaller than desired size of embellishment, i.e., 6" x 3". 2. Rosettes: a. Medium rosette: Cut a strip 5" x 118". b. Small rosette: Cut a strip 4" x 80". c. Fold strip in half lengthwise. Serge raw edges, tapering off at fold. (see dia. 1) d. Starting at tapered edge, gather entire length of piece. e. This piece can be used to make a spiral type rose or a zigzag rose. Spiral method; start spiral at bottom center of interfacing. (see dia. 2 & 3) Zigzag method; start zigzagging at left side of interfacing. (see dia. 4) f. Cut half circle shape from interfacing for a regular shape arch. Cut an elongated half circle from interfacing for eyebrow arches. Glue rose onto a piece of interfacing. Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 5 of 14

6 8 Embellishments continued: 3. Choux rosette: a. Cut a 30" 40" circle. b. Gather edge of circle. Circle will look like a shower cap. Gathered area is the back of rosette. c. The tighter the edge is gathered, the smaller the rosette. d. Attach gathered circle to interfacing by using a tacking machine or hand tacking in several places. Continue tacking until desired look is acheived. 4. Braided Knot: (a tailored look) a. Use 16/32 cord for braid at bottom of sunburst. b. 3" x 118". Cut strips of fabric on bias. Cover cording. (see How To s Welting/encased) c. Cut covered cord into three equal length. Braid the three pieces & tie in a square knot. Tuck in ends & glue. d. The larger the sunburst the larger the embellishment needs to be. For a larger braided knot use a larger cord. A longer length will also be needed. 9 Gathered chain covers for chandeliers: 1. 6" 7" cuts x 2½ - 3 times length of chain. Sew all strips together. Finish off top & bottom, by folding under 1" & straight stitch, or use Dofix tape, Rowley s Trim adhesive or Millennium tape. (If using a silk fabric serge all edges or zigzag to prevent raveling.) 2. Gather down each side of length of chain cover. Apply Millennium Tape to one side of gathered stitching, leaving paper on tape. Be sure to burnish tape. (Burnish: rub paper with back of finger nail. This process makes tape adhere to fabric.) 3. At job site, put chain cover around chain & remove paper from tape 6" at a time. Turn other gathered side in & press to tape to cover chain. 10 Gathering formula (54" fabric): 1. 2½ X fullness: (divide perimeter to be covered by 22) Ex: 20" x 30" queen sham = 100" of perimeter to be covered. (100" 22" = 4½) 4½ widths are needed for each sham. Each full width should be gathered to 22" X fullness: (divide perimeter to be covered by 18) Ex: 20" x 30" queen sham = 100" of perimeter to be covered. (100" 18" = 5½) 5½ widths are needed for each sham. Each full width should be gathered to 18". 11 Glue basting: 1. Using Rowley Trim Adhesive, apply a small amount of glue in seam allowance area & press with iron to set glue. (Glue basting stops fabric from shifting while sewing.) 2. Glue basting can be used to match print fabrics. (see How To s Matching print fabrics) 3. When glue dries it is safe to sew over glue. 12 Inserting drapery weights into hems & seams: 1. Drapery weights can be attached to each seam in seam allowance. Weights should be attached at the bottom of hem before hem is sewn. 2. After side hems have been pinned, unfold side hem at bottom & open up bottom of hem. Insert fabric covered weight into first fold of side hem. (see dia. 1) 3. Use tagging gun or staple pliers to secure fabric covered drapery weight. Tag or staple fabric tab on top of drapery weight. (see dia. 2, dotted square box represents hidden drapery weight) (purchase staple pliers from Atlanta Thread & Supply see Sources) 4. Diagrams do not show interlining & diagrams have been exaggerated to show detail. Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 6 of 14

7 12 Inserting drapery weights into hems & seams continued: 5. Fold side hem back & pin. Blind stitch or hand hem side hems as usual. 6. When using a blind stitch machine, the side hem area with drapery weight will have to be hand stitched. 13 Matching print fabrics: 1. Option 1: a. With right sides together, fold selvage of top panel back until print matches on both panels. (see dia. 1) b. Press fold. c. Pin fold, checking face fabric side to make sure print matches. d. With seam pinned, hold fabric taut & top stitch as close as possible to fold. (see dia. 2) 2. Option 2: a. With right sides together, fold selvage of top panel back until print matches on both panels. (see dia. 3) b. Press fold. Place DoFix tape or use small amount of Rowley s Trim Adhesive next to fold. (see dia. 4) (Do not use Millennium Tape, Millennium cannot be sewn over.) c. Fold bottom seam allowance over on top of DoFix tape or Rowley s Trim Adhesive & press. (see dia. 4) d. After pressing, stitch down press mark. e. Stitch the same side of fabric as the tape was placed. (see dia. 5) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 7 of 14

8 14 Pleated draperies (stationary): 1. Stationary panels (1 width) (54" wide fabric): Panels will have five pleats & four spaces. Use 5" in pleats & 4½" in spaces with 3½" returns & overlaps. (small adjustments may need to be made when pleating) FW will be 25" including overlaps & returns. 2. Stationary panels (1½ widths) (54" wide fabric): Panels will have seven pleats & six spaces. Use 5¼" in pleats & 4½" in spaces with 3½" returns & overlaps. (seams should be very close to beginning of a pleat) (small adjustments may need to be made when pleating) FW will be 34" including overlaps & returns. 15 Rope cord w/lip (joining): 1. Stop stitching approx. 1" from where cording will meet. 2. Separate lip from rope cord at stitch line. (see dia. 1) 3. Top stitch across both flanges to hold them. 4. Untwist a small amount of rope cord on left side & flatten out strands. (see dia. 2) Do not over handle cording after it has been untwisted, it gets in a mess fast. Each strand can be wrapped with tape. 5. Bring strands on right side over strands on left side to make a continuous roping look. Stitch across strands to secure them. (see dia. 3) 6. Trim off excess. Experiment on a test piece the first time. Practice makes perfect. 16 Stitch-in-the-ditch: 1. This technique can be useful in many applications, i.e., attaching an insert on a pillow. 2. Top stitch on front side of face fabric in seam, stitching will be invisible. (see dia. 1) 3. Diagram below illustrates stitching-in-the-ditch with a rope cord on one side of seam; some applications may not have cording. (see dia. 2) 17 Templates for arch windows, chair cushions & window seats: 1. Use colored chalk to make templates for arch windows and chair cushions. (chalk easily makes an impression of any edge) 2. Use blue masking tape to hold template paper in place while drawing a template of a window. (blue masking tape is less adhesive & will not harm paint like regular masking tape) 3. All templates should be rolled; never fold a template. 4. Always label templates with the following information: a. Window: Name of client, room, room side, top of window & actual written dimensions of window. b. Cushion: Name of client, room, back & front of chair, actual written dimensions of chair or window seat, tie placement, number of chairs, & type of fill. Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 8 of 14

9 18 Turkish or boxed corners: 1. With right sides together fold corner to form a point. 2. Measure down cut edge 2" 3" (amount depends on desired size of box), draw a straight line across point & sew. (see diagram below) 3. Repeat on all four corners on front & back of pillow. 4. Trim points to a ½" seam allowance & finger press seams open. 5. Place right sides together with welting in between the front & back of pillow. 6. Secure each corner with a pin. (all corner seams should match) 19 Upholster s knot: (for attaching buttons on both sides of a pillow or cushion) 1. Mark pillow on front & back for button placement. 2. Cut tufting twine about 20" long. (more length is required for neckrolls or bolsters) 3. Thread one strand through shank of button. 4. Thread both strands through eye of a long needle. 5. Insert needle through mark on front of pillow & out through & second mark on back of pillow. 6. Take strands out of needle & thread one strand through other button shank. 7. Make the upholster s knot: (see diagram below) a. Pull strand B not strand A. As you pull strand B, you tighten strands, bringing buttons closer together. b. At this point you can loosen or tighten buttons. When strands have the correct amount of tension, tie a square knot. Clip off strands so that they hide under button. TIP: When making a neckroll pillow with buttons on each end, use a 12" 14" upholstery needle with a bayonet point (a cutter). (purchase needles & tufting twine from an upholstery supplier see Sources/Upholstery suppliers) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 9 of 14

10 20 Welting (continuous strips): 1. When a large amount of welting is needed this is an easy & fast way to make bias welting. 2. Making bias welting by this method yields approx. 25 yds. of welting for 1 yd. of fabric. 3. Fold 1 yd. fabric with cut edge to selvage to form a true bias. Cut off excess fabric. 4. Cut folded bias edge as shown in diagram. (see dia. 1) 5. To avoid confusion, mark each side of triangle on the wrong side of fabric. (see dia. 1) 6. Stitch two selvage edges together using a small seam & short stitches. (see dia. 2) 7. Line off entire parallelogram with a pencil. Width of lines vary depending on size of cording. (see dia. 3) 8. With right sides together, sew two cut edges together with small seams, off-setting by one strip as you start. Stitch so that two lines meet & crossover. (Piece will look very twisted as seam is sewn.) After seaming, turn & you will have a tube. (see dia. 4) 9. Cut along pencil lines for one continuous strip. (see dia. 5) 10. OPTION: Bias welting can also be cut by folding cut edge of fabric to selvage. 11. Press folded edge of bias & cut along bias press line. (see dia. 1) 12. Strips can then be cut on a mat with a rotary cutter. (see dia. 2) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 10 of 14

11 21 Welting (covering): 1. If using welting; cut on straight of grain, each strip will need to have diagonal cut where strips are joined. (see dia. 1) 2. Lay welting strips like diagram above. Sew from top left corner to right corner, use a small stitch length & backstitch at beginning & end. Cut off excess fabric leaving a ½" seam allowance & press seam open. 3. Using a zipper foot, cover cord at the same time you are attaching welting to pillow, sham or treatment. This eliminates extra steps: 1. covering cord, 2. sewing again to attach welting to pillow, sham, etc. 4. The secret to perfect welting is not to pull the cord or fabric as you sew. Hold all layers together firmly & sew. 5. Sewing welting around corners: a. When attaching welting, do not sew close to cording, back off just a little, except at corners. Sew close to cord at corners only. Draw a horizontal line ½" from bottom edge of pillow, sham or treatment & another horizontal line at bottom edge. Draw a diagonal line to connect horizontal lines. Cut diagonal line in seam allowance of welting. Cut only seam allowance of welting. As you make diagonal snip, leave just enough room to stitch, push a little as you go around corner making it as sharp as possible. b. Seam allowances of welting & pillow or treatment should line up perfectly as you turn corners. (see dia. 2 & 3) c. Tip: Keep needle down in fabric as you pivot. d. Once you have mastered this technique, drawing horizontal lines will not be necessary, this can be done by eye, make a diagonal cut ½" up from bottom edge of corner. 6. To connect welting at bottom, angle cut cording & join seams with another diagonal seam. This can be a little tricky. Practice makes perfect. (see How To s Welting/joining w/ diagonal seam) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 11 of 14

12 22 Welting (encased): 1. Sew strips together with diagonal seams. (see How To s Welting/covering) 2. This method works directly from spool of cording. Pull welting straight off spool, do not let cording get twisted. (Cording can be placed in a holder to be pulled off straight.) 3. Measure from beginning of the roll down to amount of cording needed. Mark this measurement with a pencil. 4. Fold casing with right sides together facing cord. 5. Stitch across end of casing & cord at pencil mark. (see dia. below) Stitch across end to hold cord secure while turning. 6. Casing will be stitched going toward spool & away from cut end of cord. 7. Begin sewing casing leaving casing very loose for the first 1½". 8. Continue to sew casing, pushing casing toward stitch line. Cord casing should be slightly loose. Starting at stitched end, pull casing back over cord, to form covered welting. 23 Welting (joining strips w/diagonal seam): 1. Stop sewing 3" before beginning stitch line. 2. Pull fabric away from machine & draw a line parallel to other strip. (see dia. 1) 3. Cut diagonal line with ½" seam allowance added. (see dia. 2) 4. Sew two diagonal lines together with a slightly larger than ½" seam. Do not backstitch. (see dia. 3) 5. Open & flatten out seam allowance. 6. Test seam, making sure it lays flat. Rejoin if strips do not meet properly. (see dia. 4) 7. Angle cut cording so that cords join smoother. (see dia. 5) 8. Pull all layers tight & stitch to finish welting. (see dia. 6) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 12 of 14

13 24 Welting (joining strips w/straight fold): 1. Angle cut cords so that cords join smoother. Fold down one welting strip over cord. (see dia. 1 & 2) 2. Fold in 1" on other welting strip & fold welting down over cord & stitch. (see dia. 2 & 3) 25 Welting (no seam showing): 1. This is a great technique to use for welting along bottom edge of cornices. Seam is totally concealed. 2. Add 1½" to regular welting cut. (Extra long lip is used to wrap to backside of cornice.) 3. Welting will have two folds. 4. Stitch only one time. 26 Zippers: 1. Zippers by roll can be purchased from upholstery suppliers. Metal or nylon zippers can be used in shams & pillows. For stability, use a metal zipper in boxed cushions & large bolsters. (see Sources/Upholstery suppliers) a. Cut desired length of zipper. Use pliers to attach slide. b. Use zipper stops or fabric to finish zipper. Attaching zipper stops is easiest way to finish off a zipper. (purchase zipper stops from an upholstery supplier see Sources) i. Fabric option: Cut two pieces of ½" or ¾" twill tape 2" long. Place tape at top & bottom of zipper. Straight stitch on left & right side of zipper teeth. This eliminates sewing across zipper teeth. Inserting a zipper: (example is for a queen sham) 1. Use a 16" zipper for shams. Use a longer zipper for boxed cushions & large bolsters. 2. Add 1" to height of sham. Split back 5" up from bottom of sham. With right sides together, sew the two back pieces together using a ½" seam. (Back stitch at top & bottom of zipper opening. The opening will be marked 16" in the center of the sham. Use a seam ripper & break a stitch on both sides at the top & the bottom where zipper will be placed. Also, break several stitches in center of the 16" area, this will make it easier when opening the stay stitched area.) 3. Tip: As you are sewing 16" area, enlarge stitch length or pull material through sewing machine to make machine sew larger stitches. Press seam open. 4. Center zipper on back of seam in 16" area that has broken stitches. Teeth of zipper should be in center of stitch line. (see diagram) 5. On backside of sham using a zipper foot, straight stitch zipper on one side of opened seam allowance, as you come to zipper tab unzip zipper a couple of inches & finish sewing, back stitch at top & bottom as you sew zipper to sham. It is not necessary to stitch across zipper. Back stitching secures stitching on zipper. Tab of zipper should be up before sewing down other side of zipper. If tab is down, zipper will be locked when you try to open zipper. Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 13 of 14

14 26 Zippers continued: 6. Work zipper a couple of times to make sure it operates properly. 7. Since you have broken several stitches, you can pull on seam & it will tear open. Use a seam ripper if fabric is delicate. 27 Zippers (bound): 1. This technique can be used in pillows or cushions; the pattern is not broken in a print fabric. 2. With a pencil, mark a small rectangle on wrong side of pillow back ½" W x 16½" L" (see dia. 1) (adjust rectangle length, if necessary). Center rectangle horizontally. 3. Serge all four sides of facings. 4. Place facing wrong side up on right side of pillow back; center over rectangle & pin. 5. Turn pillow over, stitch on pencil mark on wrong side of pillow back. 6. Make a slit in center of rectangle & a diagonal snip to each corner. (see dia. 2) Be sure the diagonal snips end very close to stitching. 7. Push facing through slit; facing will be on wrong side of pillow back. (see dia. 3) 8. Press seams open between pillow back & facing. 9. To form bound zipper; push extra facing fabric to center of opening; forming pleats in facing & closing the opening. Repeat for both sides. (see dia. 3) 10. Make sure both plackets are even & press folds to form bound zipper. 11. Pin zipper on facing; make sure zipper is in center of slit. 12. Stitch-in-the-ditch on front side of pillow back to secure zipper. (see dia. 4) Copyright 2000 Minutes Matter 14 of 14