Making Double Fold Straight of Grain Quilt Binding

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1 Making Double Fold Straight of Grain Quilt Binding Tools and Supplies: Cutting mat, rotary cutter with a sharp blade, walking foot, 6x24 ruler, seam allowance guide, pencil, quilting gloves Be sure your Quilt is Square How Much Binding is Required: Add up the circumference of your quilt (all 4 sides). If your quilt is 60 by 90 you add = 300 inches + 10 (for overlap and corners) = 310 inches. Then divide by 42 to get the number of strips needed. 310 divided by 42 = 7.3 strip. Cut 8 strips. The yardage required is determined by the size of the strip chosen. To be safe I would buy and extra 1/8 to ¼ yard. 2 Strips Use a Generous ¼ seam allowance. Multiply 8 x 2 = 16 inches. For this quilt buy 5/8 of a yard 2 ½ Strips Use 3/8 seam allowance. Multiply 8 x 2.5 = 20 inches. Buy ¾ of a yard 3 Strips - Use Almost ½ seam allowance. Multiply 8 x 3 = 24 inches. Buy ¾ to 7/8 of a yard. Straight Grain Binding is cut on the straight of grain (from selvedge edge to selvedge edge, usually about 42 to 44 inches). Straight of grain binding has almost no stretch or give. It works best on square and rectangular quilts with straight edges. Square up one side of your fabric Using your ruler cut the number of strips required for your size quilt. I like 3 strips for binding. For me it is easier to get the binding to be equal size on the front and the back as judges prefer. 1

2 Place a binding strip (with the selvage still on) face up on the work surface. Place a binding strip face down on the first strip. Overlap the edges as shown. Use a pencil or chalk wheel and draw a diagonal line corner to corner. Sew from corner to corner on the drawn line. Sew from corner to corner Seam is Sewn from corner to corner Trim ¼ seam allowance Seam allowance is trimmed Continued sewing the strips together as shown above until all are joined Press all the seams open Fold in half and press Square up one end of pressed binding 2

3 I measured 4 inches up from the end of the binding and put a pin there to show where I will STOP sewing Place binding along one raw edge of the quilt about 12 inches down from the top. I measured down about 7 and placed a pin to show where I will start sewing I cut 3 wide strips for my binding, so I will use slightly less than a ½ seam allowance (see page 1). Start sewing and back tack before going forward. When you get close to the end of the side of the quilt stop and measure slightly less than ½ from the end and mark with a pencil. This is where you stop and back tack, cut the thread Take the quilt out of the machine and trim the threads. 3

4 As shown left, turn the quilt top so the binding is across the top and the next seam being sewn is down the right side. Fold the binding strip up so it is parallel with the right side of the quilt. Then fold it down to lay along the right side of the quilt. Pay particular attention to the fold at the top. It should be exactly even with the top edge of the quilt. Continue sewing all sides until you meet up with the stop pin, back tack, cut the threads and remove the quilt to the work surface. Lay the beginning binding strip on the bottom and the ending strip on the top. You can see the bottom strip is sticking just a little from beneath the top strip. The strip on top should be longer than you need. I cut 3 wide strips for my binding, so I measured down 3 from the bottom strip, and using my ruler drew a pencil line. 4

5 Take the upper strip and open it with the fabric RIGHT side up, lay it flat. Pick up the lower strip and open it with the fabric WRONG side up. Lay it flat on top of the ending strip. Using a ruler draw a diagonal line from corner to corner as shown, and pin on either side of the drawn line. Ending strip on the bottom right side up Line drawn on ending strip Sewing Line Beginning strip on top, wrong side up, lined up with drawn line on bottom strip Sew from corner to corner through the drawn line. Cut seam allowance Finger press the seam open Finish sewing the binding down 5

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