ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE

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1 ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE

2 CREATING AN ENGAGEMENT RING AS UNIQUE AND SPECIAL AS YOUR LOVE You ve found that special someone. Now it s time find that special ring they will wear for a lifetime. Whether you re picking out the engagement ring for her as a surprise Or the two of you are making the choice together as a couple (women take part in over 60% of engagement ring decisions) There are many options available when creating an engagement ring as unique and special as your love. Consider the wearer s style (formal, casual, artistic) and their daily activities (do they work in an office, with their hands, are they very active). Gruno s has been a trusted jeweler that generations have relied on for their once in a lifetime engagement ring. YOUR DIAMOND YOUR WORLD Your diamond, the centerpiece of your engagement ring. You know it s what people notice most when they look at a woman s left hand. It expresses your sense of style and who you are in the world. We ve created this guide to get you started on your journey and look forward to being with you every step of the way. A CUT ABOVE THE REST Your diamond s cut is important for a lot of reasons, but none more so than because of its role in maximizing the light and sparkle your diamond gives off. A symmetrical, precise and appropriate cut reflects l00% of the brilliance possible in your diamond. When cut in the proper proportions, light is returned out of the top of the diamond. That makes how your diamond is cut, a vital characteristic of your diamond. The quality of cut can help (or hinder) the effect of the other choices you make when creating your engagement ring. Even if your diamond has a perfect clarity and color, if it is not cut properly, you will end up paying for extra carats which don t add to your diamond s beauty. If a diamond is cut at too shallow of an angle, it will have an unattractive dead spot in the center and all that dazzling light will leak out of the bottom of your ring. If the diamond is cut at too deep of angle, the sparkle escapes out the sides. It will also be heavy-bellied and may be difficult to set. Cut quality ranges from poor to ideal. Cut Gradings: Poor/Fair: diamonds tend to appear dull or glassy Good: diamonds reflect most of the light that enters Very Good: diamonds reflect nearly as much light as the ideal/excellent cut, but for a lower price. Excellent/Ideal: diamonds reflect virtually all light that enters GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 2

3 Diamonds, and other lightly colored gemstones, benefit from a deeper cut. This deepness pulls light further into your diamond. That minimizes the visibility of inclusions and creates an overall color that appears fuller and richer. If you are considering gemstones other than diamonds, dark gemstones benefit from a shallower cut. Because they absorb light rather than being reflected out, this creates a greater refraction of light throughout the stone. The trade off results in a glowing, rounded and equalized color for your stone. If cut too deep, the already present dark colors will appear dull and muddled to the eye regardless of the light. When it comes to Cut, consider the following questions: Are you choosing a diamond or a darker colored gemstone? Do you want your diamond to sparkle and radiate out? (most people do) Do you want your diamond to draw the eye into its deep, rich colors? Will the cut be able to support the setting you are choosing for your ring? Then choose the highest cut grade within your budget that is appropriate to your diamond and reflects how you want your ring to look. CRYSTAL CLARITY Diamonds range greatly in price depending specifically on their clarity and the number of inclusions present in the diamond. When it comes to clarity and inclusions, especially when choosing fine diamonds, as well as other light-colored gemstones less is definitely more. The standard grading system divides clarity into five distinctions with the least number of flaws corresponding to the most precious cost-wise. Clarity grades and inclusions are judged when the diamond is observed both under a magnification ten times greater than the human eye, and with the naked eye alone. Clarity gradings also consider where in your diamond the inclusions are located. Clarity Gradings: Flawless (FL): less than 1% of all diamonds. No visible exterior blemishes. Inclusions are not visible, rarest clarity grade. Very Very Slightly Included (VVS): inclusions are so small they are difficult to see. VVS1 are those inclusions present in the bottom portion of the diamond (your diamond s pavilion). VV2 are present in the top portion (its crown) of the diamond. Very Slightly Included (VS): Under 10x magnification, inclusions are minor, slightly visible. Slightly Included (SI): Under 10x magnification, inclusions are noted, more visible. SI1 inclusions are possibly invisible to the naked eye. SI2 inclusions often (but not always) visible to the naked eye. Included (I): Included diamonds are the lowest quality and when it comes to clear or white diamonds, are best avoided unless an imperfection can be hidden in your ring s setting. GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 3

4 Clarity in Colored Gemstones Flawless colored gemstones are rarer than flawless diamonds. Inclusions are not necessarily a negative feature when considering colored gemstones. Darker colored stones can hide their defects because of their depth and richness. Certain gems cannot exist without some inclusions For instance, a valuable green emerald will have many inclusions, since the natural process of emerald formation is violent, resulting in many natural flaws. According to the GIA, a good quality emerald will fall into the Included (I) range. CARATS WEIGHTS AND SIZES The most well-known and most misunderstood term in diamond selection is Carat. The name is derived from the carob seed which is equal to 1/5th of a gram. Centuries ago a simple balance scale was used to weight the gen with a number of carob seeds as the balance. When purchasing diamonds only, carat measure your diamond s weight, not its size. This is because the densities of different gemstones. When compared to diamonds of the same weight, sapphires, rubies, garnets and zircons will appear substantially smaller in size. But other gems (tourmaline, emerald, quartz) have a substantially lower density than diamonds. So they will appear larger size than diamonds of the same carat weight. Diamond Carat Weights Just like a dollar is divided into 100 pennies, a carat is divided into 100 points. For most engagement rings carat weights start and 0.25 and top off at 5 carats. Diamonds less than quarter weight in carat cost significantly less and subsequently make perfect supporting diamonds. Because carat weight is distributed across the whole diamond, small size differences are almost impossible to detect. Generally a 1.00 carat weight will have a diameter of 6.5mm. If you prefer a large carat weight, but your budget is tight, consider a diamond with a good cut (SI1-SI2) clarity. The good news is the smaller your hand; the larger the diamond will appear. A 1.5-carat diamond solitaire appears much bigger on a size 4 finger than a size 8. Diamond Cut Grade Impact on Carat Weight A diamond s cut grade should also be considered on how it can impact your carat selection. A well-cut diamond (Very Good or higher), will reflect more light out of the top, making your diamond appear larger. A larger carat weight diamond that has been poorly cut (Good, Poor/Fair) could appear smaller than it actually is. GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 4

5 YOUR SHAPE IS A CUT ABOVE THE REST While carats and clarity may be difficult to discern when somebody looks at your ring, the cut of your diamond makes a huge statement about who you are and what your style is. Round: classically designed to maximize sparkle, it speaks to a simple, understated, easy elegance the wearer evokes in everything she does. Princess: those pointed corners and square shape are right out of a fairytale. Its chic style appeals to those who want a distinctive look. Oval: A similar facet pattern to the popular round cut, it gives off a desirable sparkle with a silhouette that s more unique. Pear: A unique and romantic design, also called the teardrop because of its wistful style. The length of the cut creates a subtle slimming effect on the finger. Heart: Iconic in its inherent romanticism, and shaped for brilliance, the heart-shaped can convey a brilliant facet pattern and a stunningly symmetrical silhouette. Cushion: A hybridization of antique shapes, its soft pillowy appearance gives off a distinctively vintage feel. It s rounded corners and larger facets increase the brilliance of your diamond. Emerald: This cut s large and distinctive appearance is all about showing off clarity. When properly sized to fit the wearer, the length flatters and elongates the look of the finger. Asscher: X marks the spot for love that is the signature feature of this cut which draws the eyes into the diamond s center. Designed to maximize clarity, you can pick a shape from square to more rectangular to better flatter your hand and finger. Marquise: A rare and majestic style, its elongated eye-shape gives a larger size per carat weight than any other shape. It s the wise choice for those who want a diamond that appears larger than it actually weighs. Black Label Cut: The best of precision cut technology. Radiant: A harmonious blend of round and emerald, trimmed corners are the signature of this cut whose brilliant facet pattern delivers sparkle. Available in rectangular or square. GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 5

6 ALL COLORS ARE BEAUTIFUL Diamonds A significant majority of all first-time brides will receive or choose a diamond for their engagement ring. If you choose a diamond, you can still show off your distinctive style. That s because diamonds---once primarily known for their different cuts, carat weights and clarity---are also available in a variety of colors. White Diamonds and Colorless Diamonds As timeless as they are traditional, white and colorless diamonds are categorized by how absent of pigment the diamonds are. D-E-F Color Distinctions: D and E Diamonds: show virtually no color and are clear like glass F Diamonds Natural Fancy Black Diamonds and Black Diamonds Alluring and deeply mysterious, these ebony treasures have become trendy. While both are real diamonds, as their name implies, Natural Fancy Black Diamonds are found in the rough with the same black color they display when turned into jewelry. Black diamonds get their color from heating treatments. This accounts for their difference in price. Treated Black diamonds normally run $300 per carat. Natural Fancy Black Diamonds start at ten times that much. Natural Fancy Black Diamonds are rare and distinctive in appearance. They pair beautifully with black gold, white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold, as well as traditional white or colorless diamonds and other gemstones. Fancy Yellow Diamonds Also known as canary yellow diamonds and canary diamonds, these are the most common form of colored diamonds. Their name refers to their pure yellow color and the strength of their shade. But they can also have secondary hues as well (orange, green, brown). These show-stopping blonde gems have gained fame on the red carpet. Academy Award winning actresses Natalie Portman and Kate Winslet wore Fancy Yellow diamonds to the Oscars. Brides-to-be are falling in love with Fancy Yellow diamonds because of their radiant shine and relative affordability. Fancy Yellow Diamond color intensities range from: Light Yellow, Fancy Light Yellow, Fancy Yellow, Intense Yellow and Vivid Yellow (rare and valuable) Keep in mind while canary and canary yellow are popular names for these diamonds, the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) color description is Fancy Yellow, not canary. GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 6

7 Beyond Diamonds While diamonds are still by far the most popular choice for engagement rings, they are by no means the only choice available. More and more, other precious gems especially those possessing truly dazzling colors are also gaining in popularity and becoming more common. Garnet, amethyst and topaz are also popular gemstones if you are considering a more unique engagement ring. SUPPORTING YOUR STYLE Supporting diamonds and setting styles collectively play an important role in your engagement ring. Whether you choose to set them in a clean line, or form intricate patterns, supporting diamonds should be strategically incorporated in a way that will deliver the greatest overall visual impact without detracting from your diamond. Halo Setting Are you drawn to the big engagement rings that celebrities have? Do you want to make a big splash but don t have a celebrity s budget? Either way, the Halo setting is a great choice. Like the pave, the halo setting encircles a diamond in a with a collection of diamonds (or colored gemstones). These focus the attention back on the center diamond to create interest and draw people s gaze to your ring. Not only does a high-carat center diamond look enormous in a halo setting, but halos also make any diamond look as much as a half a carat larger. The classic choice for a halo engagement ring is white gold or platinum. Recently we have created the look in pink or rose gold as well yellow. Ever to Many Halos? The classic single halo has given way to double and even triple halos. Each circle makes the ring look bigger so the triple wrap may make sense if you have a very small center diamond. For those on a budget, instead of a single center diamond, you can do a cluster of small diamonds and wind up with the same carat weight of a single large diamond, but at a lower price. Pavé Style Setting Also called Mille Grain (from the French word for pavement) just like diamonds are paved on a street, if you choose a pavé setting your diamond is paved in with a tight grouping of supporting diamonds. Unlike the halo setting, where the emphasis is to make the center diamond look bigger, the pavé look is a sparkling surface (usually of diamonds) covering your setting with little or no space between the diamonds. It creates a beautiful the illusion your band is made completely of diamonds. To fill in the gaps between diamonds tiny beads of metals are pushed over the edge of the diamonds into the metal shank. GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 7

8 Pavé settings can require extra maintenance. Dirt can easily accumulate in pavé rings and diminish the overall sparkle of the diamonds. So, you will need to do regular cleaning to maintain its sparkle. If your/her daily work requires heavy duty activities, then you should consider this before choosing a pavé setting. Direct hit on small beads that hold the diamonds so close together can lose their grip, increasing the chance of your diamond falling out. Whether we made your ring or not, we always provide excellent cleaning and inspection for all of your jewelery and best of all its free. Pavés and Shanks The shank is the part of the ring that wraps around the sides and back of the finger but does not include your diamond and supporting gemstones. A shank that is not pavéed creates a cleaner, simpler look. But if you want more bling, then pavé the shank. If you do pavé the entire shank, remember as we get older, our knuckles grow larger. So a pavéed shank can make removing, resizing and replacement an issue. A shank that s not fully pavéed allows your jeweler to cut and open the metal if needed. If you have your heart set on a pavé setting, consider a split shank. Your band will be split into two narrower bands. Split shanks are available in straight entwined styles. Solitaire Many grooms and brides-to-be choose a solitaire setting for its classic elegance as well as its ability to showcase the beauty of their diamond. But just because you appreciate the singular look of a solitaire setting doesn t mean you have sacrifice choice and customization. The Tiffany 6-prong setting Introduced over 125 years ago, the Tiffany 6-prong setting is an iconic image of an engagement ring. Minimalist in style, the prong setting holds the diamond from beneath like a claw. This raises the diamond higher in the setting and allows more light to pass through for better brilliance. It s simple and classic beauty popularized the giving of diamond solitaire rings for engagements. It remains a popular and often imitated, style. 4-prong Setting With four prongs spaced evenly apart, it will create a square appearance as the prongs function like the corners of a box. This is the reason why the 4-prong setting is the obvious choices if your diamond is square (princess) or rectangular (emerald). A 4-prong setting is recommended when the size of your diamond is small (less than 1 carat). Additional prongs look overbearing and make a diamond appear even smaller than it already seems. The main drawback of the 4-prong settings is that it s less secure compared to 6-prong designs. If you accidentally bend or break a prong, there is a heightened risk of losing your diamond. GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 8

9 Cathedral Setting Its sweeping style is reminiscent of vaulted ceilings. The pleasing arches allow your diamond maximum visibility while the slopes on either side protect it. Bezel Setting Sleek and the most modern of solitaire settings the metal band completely surrounds your diamond, following its exact shape. The bezel is an ideal choice for your active lifestyle. Tension Setting Known for its unique appearance, the diamond appears to float above your hand. A tension setting acts as a spring to hold your diamond in place. Since there is no metal underneath it, your diamond can be easily cleaned. A major difference between tension other settings is that resizing is limited. A FINAL WORD ON SETTINGS Not all settings will fit all diamond sizes or shapes. If you have your heart set on a specific shape and setting, Your Gruno s expert is happy to help you discover you options METALS AS PRECIOUS AS YOUR LOVE When creating your special ring, this is where karats meet the carats. There are a wide variety of precious metals to choose. The options available can express whatever aesthetic and personal style you choose to emanate. The term karat indicates the fineness or purity of gold. 14k gold is 58.3% gold, 18k gold is 75% gold. Yellow Gold/White Gold Naturally yellow, its combined with different alloys for added strength. The result is a band available in a rainbow of colors, including white, green, and pink. That means you can personalize your ring to the hue that most compliments you. Rose Gold This pink-tinted gold results from the addition of a copper alloy. The more copper, the deeper the rosy tones will be. One of rose gold is so popular is because of its underlying meaning. White gold symbolizes friendship and yellow gold fidelity. Rose gold represents love. Plus, it s durable and has a look that s pleasing with a variety of skin tones. Black Gold Because of its distinctive and bold look, black gold can make your engagement ring a real attention-grabber. Black gold s color comes from electroplating. Platinum Naturally white and known for its strength, platinum will keep your diamond protected and secure. It s also hypoallergenic so it won t irritate sensitive skin. Platinum is typically a 90% pure platinum with iridium or GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 9

10 cobalt added to harden the material. When platinum scratches very little metal is lost, so your ring will withstand years of wear. And because it s pure white, it won t cast any tint or color into your center diamond. Palladium A lustrous silver-white metal, this natural element is also used as an alloy in white gold. Like platinum, palladium won t tarnish. It s very flexible and hypoallergenic. It also has a grayer and darker tone than platinum. Yellow Gold 18k gold is a classic metal with high gold purity, it s less expensive than platinum, yet highly valued. 18k yellow gold is rich in color and has distinct heritage. 14k Gold is a strong metal that is popular in fine jewelry, it is moderate in color compared to 18k yellow gold. It s easy to polish, repair and resistant to rust and tarnishing. A FINAL WORD FROM GRUNO S DIAMONDS ON CREATING YOUR EN- GAGEMENT RING. Since 1953, Gruno s has been working with couples to create rings as special as their love. We have been trusted experts for generations. Please reach out to set up a personal one-on-one time to let us get to know you and your visions for your special jewelery. Madison Location 7311 W Towne Way (next to Toys R Us on the outer drive) Phone: Fax: Rockford Location 801 N. Perryville Rd. Jewelry Store Hours Monday - Friday: 10am - 7pm Saturday: 10am - 5pm Sundays : Starting Sunday, November 27, 2016 until Sunday, December 18, 2016, Gruno s in Rockford will be open 11am to 4pm on Sundays. Call Gruno s for extended holiday hours Gruno s Diamonds where your dreams turn into realities GRUNO S ENGAGEMENT RING SELECTION GUIDE PAGE 10

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