Polyester Resin Casting Tutorial

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Alannah Higgins
5 years ago
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1 Polyester Resin Casting Tutorial By Spitfire At the request of a few members I am going to put together a tutorial on casting call blanks. It will be a work in progress as I have time to complete it. I thought I would start off by listing the supplies I use so people can go out and get them so you don't have to wait until the actual tutorial is posted. **Disclaimer, there are many way's to do this and many materials/supplies that can be used. This is my process and as you start to get more into it you will develop your own process, just like making calls. Material List Polyester Resin---You can buy locally at Michael's, A.C Moore, Hobby Lobby Here is a link of what you are looking for NOTE-- Make sure you go online and find a 40%-50% one time purchase coupon for whichever store you plan to purchase it at. I us Michael's and AC Moore and you can always find their coupons online or in the newspaper here is an example this coupon is good until May 23rd to print it and use it. Catalyst for the resin--depending where you bought your resin it will come with or without the catalyst so make sure it has it before you leave the store. Colorants - I use 2 kinds of dyes. PearlEx powders which can be purchased at Michael's. they come in sample packs, you might want to print 2 coupons and go 2 different days as the dye's are 30 bucks for the sample packs---here is a link to the dyes. I also use Testor's model paint which can also be purchased at the craft stores. Molds A couple options here For my turkey pot call blanks I use a 4" PVC cap which works great, is cheap and once cured the blank slides out and is reusable. For my "dowel" or "duck" call blanks I use 1.5" PVC cut to around 8" (length is dependent on what kind of blank you are casting) You will also need the appropriate size "cap" for the 1.5" PVC to close off one end

2 For my striker tops I use the same setup as the duck blanks but use 1" PVC I like the PVC molds because they are cheap, the resin slides right out once it's cured and is very reusable. Mixers I use the thick popsicle sticks for mixing the resin I use skewer stick from the grocery store for swirling my resin. if I am using a small mold I will also use a small diameter wire. Mixing Cups I use heavy duty clear plastic cups. you want clear ones so you can see into the cup to know how much resin you poured. Also, heavy duty because it you get the flimsy cups the resin can eat through it. Oribital Sander This is very optional. I use this sometimes to help get a different mix between the 2 colors. It allows 1 color to "rise through" the other color as seen in the picture below(not a turkey call just used as example, it's actually a mini frisbee )

The sander also helps removed air bubbles from the casting. This will become more clear when I post pictures. you will also want to have a marker and some water available when casting.

3 The sander also helps removed air bubbles from the casting. This will become more clear when I post pictures. you will also want to have a marker and some water available when casting. More to follow once I take some pictures of my process and post them up here. -Jason Disclaimer---I am nowhere near an expert in casting resin. This is how I do it and I'm sure there are other ways. You will find your own process I'm sure but I hope this get's you started in the right direction. Another word of caution. This stuff stinks! I am used to it by now but make sure you do this outside or in a very well ventilated area. When I see some tutorials sometimes they lack a few pictures o steps that might be rather obvious but would also be very helpful if pictured so when I do a tutorial I try to include a picture of every step I take. First things first, get all your supplies out and in order. Here you will see I have my resin, catalyst, some examples of what dyes might be used, skewer for swirling, popsicle sticks.

4 You will also need your mold, some cups, a cup of water, and a marker. I also included the molds that I use to make my striker blanks as well as duck/grunt call blanks.

Now get out the particular items you will need for whatever you are casting. Here you will see I am using a 4" PVC cap for my mold for a turkey pot call blank.

I am using 3 colors for this blank so you will need 3 cups First thing I do is mark my mold for where I want to fill it to.

5 Now get out the particular items you will need for whatever you are casting. Here you will see I am using a 4" PVC cap for my mold for a turkey pot call blank. There is also a mold there for a striker blank as well. I am using 3 colors for this blank so you will need 3 cups First thing I do is mark my mold for where I want to fill it to. You can see where I marked it with black marker. If I remember correctly it is marked right around 1" You now want to fill the mold with water up to your mark. Then transfer into a cup and mark it with a marker. This gives you the amount of resin you will need to cast this blank.i don't know why but I always mark the halfway point as well.

Now since I am using 3 colors I need 3 cups. Lighter colors can get taken over by the darker colors so I try to distribute more resin to the lighter colors and less in the darker colors.

Then mark where the water comes to in each cup and label each cup with which color you plan to use in it as seen in the picture.

6 Now since I am using 3 colors I need 3 cups. Lighter colors can get taken over by the darker colors so I try to distribute more resin to the lighter colors and less in the darker colors. So take the cup with water in it that came from the mold and pour it into your 3 cups distributing it as you see fit. Then mark where the water comes to in each cup and label each cup with which color you plan to use in it as seen in the picture. Pour the water out of all the cups and make sure you dry off all cups that resin will go into as well as your mold before you pour any resin. Here you can see I poured my resin. Now from this point on you don't want to walk away on a phone call. You don't have o rush like a mad man but do be smooth in your process so your cups don't get to hot and melt.

7 No add your coloring. How much you ask? Well that is up to you. Experiment with this part. Add some mix it, if it isn't the color you want add more. No mix up the color into the resin until you have a complete mix

8 Once you have all your colors mixed in add your catalyst. How much can depend on a few things such as the climate in your area, temp in your shop. Start by using what it says on the resin container and adjust from there. To little catalyst and it won't fully set, to much and it can make the blank brittle and even crack. When resin starts to cure it get hot, you will be able to feel that through your blank. Once catalyst is added the curing process is starting to again have a smooth process here but don't overly rush. Mix the catalyst in well, a good minute of stirring and you are good. So now we are ready to pour our resin. Since I was doing 3 colors and using black I started pouring my green/tan stopped halfway through then added a little black. Poured more green/tan the topped it off

9 with the black.

10 No you can swirl a little bit here or wait for the resin to start to harden a little. This part will come from experience.

11 I really don't like to waste resin so I usually always have a PVC cap around when I cast for any extra resin to go into Now this step is optional but I would try it at least once to see what results you get. Just run your orbital sander by your mold and will see the colors kinda rise and mix within each other.

12 Here is how the blank looked before setting it aside to cure for 24 hours. Looks promising but you really never know what you have until you turn it. I also wanted to do a matching striker so I mixed the resin just like the steps above and poured my resin into the striker mold

I could make my striker blanks in a square mold for easier mixing and also cast more blanks at the same time but I like the fact they come right out of the mold pre rounded

13 I use a wire to swirl the colors on the dowel style blanks. It helps keep the colors from bleeding together. Now I will say it is much easier to get a nice mix of the colors using the PVC cap style mold as you can easily swirl in that mold. I could make my striker blanks in a square mold for easier mixing and also cast more blanks at the same time but I like the fact they come right out of the mold pre rounded making for easier turning. I also had a question as to how I chuck these blanks. I actually use a wine bottle stopper chuck I drill a hole I think 11/32...I think and just mount it right onto the wine stopper chuck. Here is a ink to the chuck I use.

what will end up being the bottom of my call as well as a

14 Ok, we continue forward Here you can see the resin has been cured and pulled away from the mold slightly Here is what will end up being the bottom of my call as well as a picture of the striker blank and the black left over resin

15 Here is what will end up being the top...kinda plain looking I tried something new today as far as mounting the blank. Usually I just use the wine stopper chuck the whole time but tried my 4 jaw chuck and works great. Once I turn the inside of the pot I reverse it and mount it on the chuck

Here is a sneak preview of what it will look like. I am actually pretty happy with the results. Better than I thought it would come out I thought I would post how I finish these.

16 Here is a sneak preview of what it will look like. I am actually pretty happy with the results. Better than I thought it would come out I thought I would post how I finish these. I usually have a smooth enough surface that I start with 320 then wetsand with 400 wet/dry paper. After that I hit it with One Step as seen here Usually 1 coat but sometimes 2 if needed and it gives it a nice shine.

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