Flower. bracelet. Stitch Workshop. Make a pretty bracelet with a new stitch. Tso Stitch
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1 Stitch Workshop Tso Stitch Flower bracelet Make a pretty bracelet with a new stitch designed by Hsiao-Hsuan Tso and Anna Elizabeth Draeger Master the basics of tso stitch as you make this charming bracelet. materials bracelet in. (19.1 cm) 10 mm crystal or pearl accent bead 110 seed beads 6 7 g color A (purple) 3 4 g color B (green) clasp nylon beading thread, size D, or Fireline 6 lb. test beading needles, #12 FCT-SCON0216_BNB26A 2010 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher. facetjewelry.com 1
2 a b c d e f stepbystep Six-petal flower [1] On a comfortable length of thread or Fireline, pick up four color A 110 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the first A again to form a ring. [2] Pick up an A, skip an A, and sew through the next A. Repeat, and step up through the first A added in this round. [3] Working as in Variation #1: Basic stitch, repeat step 2 10 times to make a tube with seven beads on each of two opposing sides (these will be the front and back) and six beads on each of the other two sides. Exit at the end of a six-bead side (photo a). [4] To begin the next row, work as in steps 2 and 3 of Variation #1: Adding rows : Pick up three As, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step. Pick up an A, and sew through the second A just added, positioning the new bead at the end of the tube. Pick up an A, sew through the A your thread exited in the previous step, and continue through the first A added in this round (photo b). [5] To work an increase off the end of the tube, work as in Variation #1: Basic stitch for two rounds to add a total of four beads (photo c). Sew through the beadwork to exit the bottom of the row. [6] Continue stitching the row as in Variation #1: Adding rows until the new row has five beads on both the front and back sides and four beads on each of the other two sides (photo d). [7] Exit the end bead on the new fourbead side. Work another row that is identical to the second row. Exit a bead between rows 2 and 3, and work as in Fill-in stitch to add three beads on each surface of the beadwork (photo e). Note: For visibility, the fill-in beads are shown in purple. Exit the second bead from the top of the new four-bead side. [8] Add a row that has seven beads on both the front and back and six beads on each side. To connect row 4 to row 1, exit the end of the inner six-bead side, and sew through the inner end bead of row 1. Sew through the bead in row 4 again (photo f), and continue through row 4 to exit the end bead of the outer six-bead row. The first petal is complete. [9] Work as in Variation #1: Adding rows to add a unit to each of the two bottom side beads. Continue the first row of the new petal as in Variation #1: Basic stitch until the front and back each have seven beads and the sides each have six beads. [10] Work as in steps 4 9 to make a total of six petals, ending and adding thread (Online Basics) as needed. When you get to the bottom of the sixth petal, sew through the two bottom outer edge beads of row 1 instead of adding new beads. [11] To add the accent bead in the 2
3 g h i center of the flower, exit the bottom side bead between two petals. Pick up the 10 mm bead, and sew through the bottom side bead between the opposite two petals (photo g). Retrace the thread path several times to secure the connection, and end the threads. Band [1] On a comfortable length of thread or Fireline, pick up four color B 110 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the first B again to form a ring. Using Bs, work as in steps 2 4 of Variation 2: Basic stitch to make a strip that is 19 units long. [2] Exiting the end bead, pick up seven Bs and half of the clasp, and sew through the end bead again to make a loop. Retrace the thread path several times, and exit a side bead in the end unit. [3] Work one unit as in Variation #2: Adding rows. Exit the end bead, and make a second loop through the clasp as in step 2 (photo h). [4] Exit the end bead of the unit stitched in step 3, and work four units as in Variation 2: Basic stitch. [5] To connect the second row to the first, exit the end bead of the previous stitch as usual. Align the rows so the beads are positioned the same way in each. Skip four units on the first row, and sew through the appropriate side bead in the next unit. Pick up a B, and sew through the adjacent side bead in the unit and the end bead from the previous unit of the second row. Pick up a B, and sew through the B added in the previous stitch. Pick up a B, and sew through the end bead in the previous unit, a side bead, and the end bead in the unit just made. [6] Work as in step 5 to make another connected stitch. [7] Work 11 units as in Variation 2: Basic stitch. [8] Work the final unit as a connected unit as in step 5. Exit the end bead. [9] Repeat steps 1 8 to make a second band. Assembly [1] Align the end of a band between two petals of the flower. With the working thread of the band, sew through the end side bead in the outer row of the nearest petal. Sew through the end bead in the band (photo i) and the end bead in the petal several times to secure the connection. [2] Sew through the band to exit the adjacent end bead. Sew through the corresponding end side bead in the other petal (photo j). Retrace the thread path several times, and end the working thread and tail. [3] Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the other band, positioning it opposite the first. j Eddy Tso has instructions for additional tso stitch projects available at kiki8800.etsy.com. Contact Eddy at arte@sympatico.ca. 3
4 Stitch Workshop Tso Stitch Stitch mashup With elements of peyote stitch and right-angle weave, tso stitch is a versatile stitch that is new yet familiar. Petals: Begin each petal with a seven-stitch row in Variation #1. Begin a new row, work an increase, and complete the row with a total of five stitches. Work rows 3 and 4 as a mirror image of rows 2 and 1. Connect rows 1 and 4 at the bottom. Add fill-in stitches between rows 2 and 3. designed by Hsiao-Hsuan Tso materials all samples 3 g 80 seed beads in each of 2 colors: A, B beading thread or Fireline 6 lb. test beading needles, #12 stepbystep Master the basics of tso stitch and you can apply them to your own creations, like this flower bracelet. Band: Work the band in Variation #2. Stitch the first row to the desired length, then work a second row, splitting and connecting the rows as desired. FCT-SCON0216_BNB26 Attach a stop bead (Basics) to a comfortable length of thread or Fireline before stitching each of the following samples. Variation #1 This variation is based on tubular peyote stitch (Basics), starting with four beads in the initial round, and two beads in each subsequent round. While stitching the sample, you will notice that the thread and holes of the beads are very prominent in the design, so choose thread to match the beads you are using. Basic stitch [1] Pick up a color A 80 seed bead, a color B 80 seed bead, an A, and a B, and sew through the first A again to form a ring. a b c [2] Pick up a color B 80 seed bead, skip an A in the ring, and sew through the next A in the ring. Repeat, and step up through the first B in the new round (photo a). [3] Repeat step 2, alternating rounds of As and Bs. Adding rows [1] Using As, work a row of the basic stitch. [2] Exit a side A, and pick up three Bs. Sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step (photo b). [3] Work two stitches of tubular peyote using Bs: Pick up a B, and sew through the second B picked up in the previous stitch. Pick up a B, sew through the A your thread exited in the previous step, and continue through the first B added in this step (photo c). [4] Continue, working in modified tubular peyote: Pick up a B, and sew through the second B added in the previous step. Sew through the next A in the previous row. [5] Work as in steps 3 and 4, alternating between adding two stitches per round and one stitch per round, along the length of the previous row. Increase and decrease rows To work an increase at the beginning of a new row, you must first add a stitch that is flush with the end of the first row as in Variation 1: Adding rows. Work in the opposite direction to add the increase stitch (photo d), then sew back through the beadwork to complete the new row. To work an increase stitch at the end of a completed row, simply continue working in the basic stitch, adding two beads per round. 4
5 d e f g h i j k To work a decrease stitch at the beginning of a row, sew through the beadwork to exit the second side bead instead of the first, then work the row as in Variation 1: Adding rows. To work a decrease stitch at the end of the row, stop short of working the last stitch. Variation #2 This variation is made by making units of six beads, and then connecting the next unit to the previous unit. Basic stitch [1] Pick up four color A 80 seed beads, and sew through the first A again. [2] Pick up an A, skip an A in the ring, and sew through the next A in the ring. Repeat, and step up through the first A in the new round. Look at this first unit: When you look at it one way, you see the holes of four As, and when you look at it the other way, you see the holes of two As. You want your thread to be exiting one of those two As (photo e). [3] Pick up three Bs, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step (photo f). Pick up a B, and sew through the B opposite the A your thread is exiting. Pick up a B, and sew through the A again. Step up through two Bs (photo g). [4] Continue adding units by repeating step 3, alternating As and Bs. Adding rows [1] Using As, work a row of the basic stitch. [2] Exit a side A, pick up a B, and sew through the adjacent A. Repeat, and step up through the first new B (photo h). [3] Pick up a B, and sew through the opposite B. Repeat (photo i). [4] Sew through the nearest side A, and pick up a B. Sew through the opposite A, the B in the previous stitch, the next A, and the new B. [5] Repeat steps 3 and 4 to complete the row. [6] Add subsequent rows by repeating steps 1 5, alternating colors if desired. Increase and decrease rows To work an increase unit at the beginning of a new row, you must first add a unit that is flush with the end of the first row as in Variation 2: Adding rows. Work in the opposite direction to add the increase unit (photo j), then sew back through the beadwork to complete the new row. To work an increase unit at the end of a completed row, simply continue working in the basic stitch. To work a decrease unit at the beginning of a row, sew through the beadwork to exit the second side bead instead of the first, then work the row as in Variation 2: Adding rows. To work a decrease unit at the end of the row, stop short of working the last stitch. Hsiao-Hsuan (Eddy) Tso is a selftaught beader with a background in fine arts from Ontario, Canada. Eddy has booklets for additional tso stitch projects available at kiki8800.etsy.com. Contact Eddy at arte@sympatico.ca. Fill-in stitch Depending on the design you are working on, you may want to use the fill-in stitch to hide some of the holes of the beads. To work a fill-in stitch, exit an 80 in a row where the holes are prominent and facing you. Pick up an 80, and sew through the next 80 in the row. On the back of the sample, pick up an 80, and sew through the next 80 in the row (photo k). The new 80s will be positioned perpendicular to those in the adjacent rows. Continue to zigzag through the row, adding 80s between every other pair of 80s. When you reach the last bead, zigzag back through the row, adding 80s in the remaining openings. 5
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