twist bracelet what you need all styles safari

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1 twist bracelet what you need all styles Beading thread size A to match color A beads Silver or gold toggle clasp 4 jump rings, 5 mm to match clasp safari 5 grams twisted bugle beads, 6 mm, metallic hematite 5 grams seed beads, 11, metallic bronze (color A) 5 grams seed beads, 11, metallic hematite (color B) 38 to 42 Czech fire-polished beads, 4 mm, metallic bronze festive 5 grams bugle beads, 7 mm, opaque light orange 5 grams seed beads, 11, opaque dark orange (color A) 5 grams seed beads, 11, opaque yellow (color B) 38 to 42 round millefiori beads, 4 mm, orange and yellow safari wedding 5 grams bugle beads, 6 mm, white pearl 5 grams seed beads, 11, white pearl (color A) 5 grams seed beads, 11, crystal AB (color B) 38 to 42 crystal bicone beads, 4 mm, crystal AB safari 1

2 what you do festive 1 Cut yards (5.1 m) of thread and put a needle on to work single thread. 2 Use the half-thread method (page 5) to add a stop bead with a 3-yard (2.8 m). Continue with this thread until it measures approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm), then switch to the other thread. 3 Line up 6 to 7 inches (15.2 to 17.8 cm) of bugle beads all the same size. 4 Create a one-wide strip, method 1 (page 6, steps 1 to 4) with the following variation: Every third column, add fringes as instructed in step 5. 5 To add fringes, pick up one 4-mm bead and one seed. Move the beads next to the strip. Skip the added seed and stitch back through the 4-mm bead and the seed-bugle-seed in the strip. Repeat on the other side. Use color A beads for the first pair (one on each side of the strip). For the next pair, use color B. Continue to alternate color A and B across the strip (figure 1). 6 Repeat steps 4 and 5 until there are approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) of thread left. End with two empty columns (just before a fringe column). 7 Remove the stop bead and put a needle on. 8 Repeat steps 4 to 6 for the other side of the bracelet until you have the desired length. 9 Add the loops to attach the clasp. Pick up 8 to 10 seeds. Stitch through the other side of the seed-bugle-seed sequence on the end. Repeat two more times. Tie a knot, weave the ends in, and cut (figure 2). 10 Repeat step 9 for the other end of the bracelet. 11 Cut yards (3.2 m) of thread and put a needle on. Move the needle to the middle to work double thread. 12 Add a stop bead with a 9-inch (22.9 cm). 13 Stitch through the turn bead in the fringe that is two fringes from the end. If the turn bead is color A, use color A beads (if color B, use color B beads). Pick up 8 to 12 seed beads as needed to stitch over to the second nearest fringe. Use a bead count that gives a slight loop above the skipped fringe. Repeat to the end of the bracelet. Add beads near the end as needed to fit and stitch across to the next side of the bracelet. Repeat the added beads across the other side of the bracelet to return to the starting place (figure 3). 14 Stitch through that turn bead and down into the bracelet. Stitch over to the next fringe and up through that fringe and turn bead. wedding 2

3 15 Pick up 8 to 12 seed beads as needed to stitch over to the next empty fringe. Use a bead count that gives a slight loop above the skipped fringe. If you used color A in step 13, use color B (and vice versa). Lay the bead strand over the previous loop strands and then under that strand at the turn bead to create the twist. Repeat to the end of the bracelet. Add beads near the end as needed to fit, and stitch across to the next side of the bracelet. Repeat the added beads across the other side of the bracelet to return to the starting turn bead (figure 4). figure 1 figure 2 16 Stitch down through the 4-mm bead. Cut the thread near the needle to create two ends. Add a needle on the other end. 17 With one needle, stitch down through the seed in the bracelet and up through the next seed. The ends are now near each other. Tie a square knot. With one end, weave up into the 4-mm bead and twist. Pull the knot into the 4-mm bead. With the other end, weave into the bracelet. Cut the ends (figure 5). figure 3 18 Remove the stop bead and add needles on each end. Stitch both ends down the 4-mm bead. 19 Repeat step 17. figure 4 20 Use jump rings to attach the clasp. figure 5 figure 5 3

4 techniques This section explains the techniques you ll use throughout the projects. If there s a deed technique you need to know, a reference in the project will send you back to the right section below. a c a c b d figure 1 b d figure 2 knots Knots are used at the end of stitching to secure threads before they are cut. There are two situations for using knots. One is when two thread ends are available to perform a knot, and the other is when only one thread is available. Square Knot When two threads are available, you can make a square knot. This is the preferred situation, because this knot is the most secure. When a square knot is knotted correctly, and when the ends are woven into the beadwork in opposite directions, any stress on the knot actually makes it tighter. To tie a square knot (figure 1), position the thread ends so that they are exiting two different beads, with one thread end to the right and the other to the left. Loop the right thread over and around the left. Then take the thread that is now on the left and loop it over and around the right. Pull the ends to secure the knot. Take one end and weave it into the beadwork in one direction. Take the other end and weave it into the beadwork in the opposite direction and then cut. One-Thread Knot You ll sometimes have only one thread to work with. If that s the case, stitch to an area in the beadwork where there are two threads coming out of a bead in two different directions (figure 2). Stitch under the two threads and pull gently to create a loop. Stitch through the loop, then through the loop again. Pull slowly to close the loops. Pull tight. Weave in (see below), then cut. Weaving into Beadwork Always cut thread away from the knot, not next to it. Weave into the beadwork before cutting the thread. Fabric weavers have discovered that weaving threads back in actually eliminates the need for knots if the weaving is done up, then down, then up, and then down. Weaving done in this back-and-forth pattern will secure the thread without the need for a knot. So, knot and weave to produce a really secure thread end. tip Many beaders leave all weaving in of threads as a last step. This will ensure that you do not fill up a bead hole that may be needed during construction of the project. 4

5 lining up bugle beads Bugle beads, like seed beads, have a slight variation in size and shape from one bead to another. Higher quality, more expensive bugles usually have less variation than the cheaper ones. When the project design calls for bugle beads to be stitched next to each other, these variations can affect the final appearance of the work. For this reason, the project instructions include comments such as line up three bugle beads. This is to alert you to preselect which beads to use in that set of instructions so you can more easily set them side by side and look to see that the beads match each other. To do this, first pour out the bugle beads on a bead mat. Move the beads next to each other side by side in a column. Use a straight edge (like a ruler, the edge of an index card, etc.) and push on one side of the beads to line them up straight. Now review the column. Allow for some variation, but remove any beads that are too short or too long. adding a stop bead Starting a project of beadwork often involves leaving the thread for use later in completing the beadwork. Accordingly, there are no beginning knots to hold the tension. The use of a stop bead compensates for this and helps to hold the tension in the thread. The stop bead is a bead that is used temporarily and is removed later. tip Any bead can be used as a stop bead, but the best choice is a size 8 or 9 bead in a matte finish. That s because the roughness of the matte finish helps to hold the thread better, and it s a large enough bead to remove easily later. To add a stop bead, pick up the bead. Move it to the desired location and stitch through it again so the thread is looped around the bead. When you stitch in the bead again, be careful not to stitch through the thread already in the bead since that will cause problems when you try to remove it later. Pull the thread so the loop is tightly around the bead (figure 3). half-thread method The half-thread method is based on two beading truths. One is that a short thread is easier to work with than a longer one. The other truth is that adding a new thread is tedious and laborious. With the half-thread method, you cut a thread that is twice as long so you eliminate the need to add thread. And, by using one half at a time, it is easier to work with than a longer thread. Begin by putting a stop bead in the middle of the thread. You ll be beading from the middle of the beadwork toward one end. Continue until instructed to stop. Then remove the stop bead, put a needle on that thread end, and continue beading from the middle of the beadwork to the other end. tip A long thread can be troublesome for some beaders. To alleviate this problem, simply take a sticky note and loosely wrap the thread around it. Now take another sticky note and press it together with the first. This will make that long thread easy to handle while you are working with the needle thread. When you are ready to use the thread, open the sticky notes and unwrap the thread. figure 3 5

6 a /beadwork /beadwork pull thread to create loop figure 4 end loops There are essentially two ways to attach findings (such as clasps) to beadwork. One is to stitch directly through the finding while beading. This method makes the finding an integral part of the beadwork. However, this can create a problem later if the clasp breaks or you need to change the type or color of the clasp. There is no easy way to fix these situations without remaking the entire project. The preferred method is to create a beaded loop and use jump rings to attach the finding. This method allows you to replace or change a clasp easily. Bracelet sizing can easily be manipulated by changing to a smaller clasp to make the bracelet smaller. You can lengthen a bracelet by changing to a larger clasp or simply adding a few more jump rings. Strength and security are achieved by using two jump rings, which gives as much security as a split ring, yet is much easier to use. All of the projects in this book use the preferred method. To create a loop, follow these steps (see figure 4): 1 Pick up the beads using the number of beads indicated in the project instructions. 2 Move the beads down the thread to the stop bead, length, or beadwork whichever is appropriate. 3 Stitch through the beads again to create a loop. bugle strips One of the basic formats of beading with bugle beads is a strip. You can create a strip that is one-bugle wide, two bugles, or more. Create strips using the following instructions. One-Wide Strip Method 1 (when using single thread) 1 Pick up one seed bead, one bugle, two seed beads, one bugle, and one seed bead. Move to the stop bead or length indicated in the project instructions. 2 Line up the beads and fold the thread between the two seed beads. Stitch down through the beads in the first column. Stitch up through the beads in the second column (figure 5). 3 Pick up one seed bead, one bugle, and one seed bead. Stitch through the previous seed-bugle-seed set, then back through the seed-bugle-seed set just added (figure 6). 4 Repeat step 3 until you have the quantity per the project instructions. tip If you don t keep a good tension on the thread, you may end up with gaps between the columns of bugle strips. To avoid this problem, pull on the opposite side of the thread just before pulling on the needle for final stitching when adding a column. pull up here, then pull down on the needle pull down here, then pull up on the needle 6

7 One-Wide Strip Method 2 (when using double thread) 1 Add a stop bead, leaving a 3-inch (7.6 cm) to prevent the beads from falling off the thread later. 2 Pick up one seed, one bugle, and one seed. 3 Repeat step 2 until all the bugles per the instructions are used. 4 Position the beads so that the needle half of the thread is bare and the beads are at the top of the half of the thread (figure 7). 5 Skip the first seed-bugle-seed set at the top of the fold. 6 Stitch through the next seed-bugleseed set from the top (figure 8). 7 Pull both thread ends so the set used in step 6 is next to the previous set. 8 Repeat steps 6 and 7 until all the beads are used. 9 Optional: if you re creating a tube, connect the starting set and last set by stitching down through the starting set. Pull both thread ends to adjust the tension. Tie a square knot (figure 9). bead placement middle of the thread with stop bead needle figure 7 needle a b c fold figure 5 figure 8 a b c d figure 6 figure 9 7

8 This project is from: bugle bead bonanza Jamie Cloud Eakin A Sparkling Collection of Jewelry Projects Fun and inspiring a great addition to beaders libraries! Margie Deeb Want to buy the printed book? Text 2010, Jamie Cloud Eakin Photography and illustrations 2010, Lark Books, a Division of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., unless otherwise specified A Division of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. New York / London For more information on Lark CraftS, visit our website at 8

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