DRAFT IN WIDE CIRCULATION Our Ref : CHD 19 (2209,2210)C Date : Chairman and All Members of Footwear Sectional Committee, CHD 19

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1 DRAFT IN WIDE CIRCULATION Our Ref : CHD 19 (2209,2210)C Date : TECHNICAL COMMITTEE: FOOTWEAR SECTIONAL COMMITTEE, CHD 19 ADDRESSED TO: 1 Chairman and All Members of Footwear Sectional Committee, CHD 19 2 Convener and All Members of Panel CHD 19:P1 3 All others interested. Dear Sir(s), Please find enclosed the following draft Indian standards: Sl Document No. No. 1 DOC:CHD 19 (2209 )C Title SCHOOL SHOES FOR BOYS SPECIFICATION 2 DOC:CHD 19 (2210)C SCHOOL SHOES FOR GIRLS SPECIFICATION The document will also be hosted on BIS website Kindly examine draft Indian Standards and forward your views stating any difficulties which you are likely to experience in your business or profession, if these are finally adopted as National Standards. Last Date for Comment: 20 November 2015 Comments, if any, may please be made in the format as enclosed and mail to the undersigned at arora-deepti7@bis.org.in. In case no comments are received, we would presume your approval of the documents. However, in case we receive any comments on the document, the same shall be put up to the Sectional Committee for necessary action. Thanking you, Yours faithfully, Encl: As above (Dr.Rajiv K.Jha) Scientist F & Head (Chemical)

2 fax: य प च ल म द तपम प दम तत : ज त व षय दम तत द एलड 19 र तकत भ 1 स एचड 19 क स सद य 2 स एचड 19 प नल क स सद य 3 अ य च च ननक य हम र स द भ: स एचड 19 /रल ख (2209, 2210)स ददन क : मह दय(य )/ मह दय नन न ल खत मसदद स ल न ककय ज रह ह : 1 स एचड 19 (2209) स ल क क ललए क ल क ज त - व व व 2 स एचड 19 (2209 स ल लकय क ललए क ल क ज त - व व व क पय इस मसदद क अवल कन कर और अपन स मनतय यह तत त हएए ज कक यदद य मसदद र र य म नक क चप म रक त ह त इस पर अमल करन म आपक यवस य अवव क र त र म य कद न इय आ सकत ह द ततय त जमज प तत तत स मनतय यदद क ह त क पय अ ह त रत त क म ल arora-deepti7@bis.org.in पर स ल न मट म ज यदद क स मनत र त नह ह त ह अवव स मनत म क वल स त टएद हए त रपर त रल ख क यव वत अ नतम चप द ददय ज एग यदद स मनत तकन क रक नत क हए त व य स मनत क अ य क पर म भ स अवव रनक इ छ पर आग क क यभव ह क लए व य स मनत क ज ज न क त द रल ख क अ नतम चप द ददय ज एग यह रल ख रत य म नक य र क व तस इ पर ह यव द, वद य स ल न: रपर त ल खत (ड. र ज व क झ ) व ञ ननक ए एव रमएख (रस यन)

3 WIDE CIRCULATION DOCUMENT FOR BIS USE ONLY LAST DATE FOR COMMENTS भ रत य म नक मस द ल क क ललए क ल क ज त व ल ट Draft Indian Standard SCHOOL SHOES FOR BOYS - SPECIFICATION ICS BIS 2015 B U R E A U O F I N D I A N S T A N D A R D S MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI August 2015 Price Group

4 FOREWORD (Formal clause to be added) The Derby design prescribed in this standard for boys shoes has been developed for school going boys for sizes 11 to 5. Keeping in view of the foot comfort as well as the factors for the healthy growth of their feet, wide fitting F and G have been recommended. The choice of selection of rubber or leather as bottom components of the shoe and the mode of their construction has been left to the choice of the purchaser and the supplier. It is hoped that the educational authorities would popularize the shape and fitting recommended through their dress regulations for school going boys. Considerable assistance has been taken from Indian Standard 'IS 5332: 1969 Specification for boys and youths' school shoes' since withdrawn, while developing this standard. For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS 2 : 1960 Rules for rounding off numerical values ( revised )'. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.

5 Draft Indian Standard SCHOOL SHOES FOR BOYS - SPECIFICATION 1 SCOPE This standard prescribes the requirements, method of sampling and test for boys school shoes. 2 REFERENCES The standards listed below contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. At the time of publication, the editions indicated were valid. All the standards are subject to revision, and parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent edition of these standards. IS NO. TITLE 177: 1989 Cotton drills - Specification (Fourth revision) 534: 2007 Benzene - Specification (Fourth revision) 578: 1985 Full chrome upper leather (Third Revision) 579 : 1996 Vegetable tanned sole leather - Specification (third revision) 663: 1980 Specification for adzes (Second Revision) 1720 : 1978 Specification for cotton sewing threads (Second Revision) 2050 : 1991 Glossary of terms relating to footwear (first revision) 2051 : 1976 Methods of sampling of leather footwear (first revision) 2961: 1973 Chrome retan finished upper leather 3400 Methods of test for vulcanized rubbers. (Part 2): 2014 Rubber, Vulcanized or Thermoplastic Determination of Hardness (Hardness Between 10 IRHD and 100 IRHD) (fourth revision ) (Part 4): 2012 Accelerated Ageing and Heat Resistance (third revision ) (Part 9): 2014 Rubber, Vulcanized or Thermoplastic - Determination of Density (third revision) 3840: 2011 Specification for lining leathers (Third Revision) 4512 : 1978 Footwear Lasts, Wooden (first revision) 4663: : 1982 Permanent Rubber-based Adhesives for Footwear Industry Specification for Cotton laces for footwear (first revision) 3 TERMINOLOGY 3.1 For the purpose of this standard, the definitions given in IS 2050 shall apply. 4 REQUIREMENTS 4.1 Materials Upper Leather Printed or plain full chrome upper leather conforming to IS 578 or chrome retan upper leather conforming to IS 2961 shall be used. The shade of the upper leather shall be as agreed to between the purchaser and the supplier Lining Leather for Quarter Vegetable tanned lining leather conforming to IS 3840 shall be used.

6 4.1.3 Vamp Lining, Textile Cotton drill conforming to variety No. 2 as prescribed in IS 177 shall be used Bottom Material Materials according to either or shall be used For leather bottom material vegetable tanned sole leather conforming to type 1 of IS 579 shall be used. NOTE If required, water resistant sole leather conforming to type 2 of IS 579 may also be used, subject to agreement between the purchaser and the supplier For rubber bottom material Rubber sole and heel shall comply with the physical requirements prescribed in Table Threads Upper closing For upper closing, cotton thread conforming to variety No. 28 and 20 of IS 1720 shall be used. NOTE Silk, nylon or linen thread of suitable quality may be used, subject to agreement between the purchaser and the supplier Stitching of sole Depending on whether the stitching of the sole is done by machine or hand, thread used shall be of the following types: Mode of Stitching Materials Count Tex (Linen) Construction (Ply) i) Stitching by machine: a) Shuttle Cotton 6s b) Top Cotton 6s ii) Stitching by hand Cotton thread 6s Minimum Breaking Strength in kg on 50 cm Length with Rate of Traverse of Power Actuated Grips Being 30 cm/min NOTE Silk, nylon or linen thread of suitable quality may be used, subject to agreement between the purchaser and the supplier. TABLE 1 PHYSICAL REQUIREMENT FOR RUBBER SOLE AND HEEL (Clause , and 8.4.2) SL. CHARACTERISTIC REQUIREMENT METHOD OF TEST No. (1) (2) (3) (4) i) Relative density, Max 1.3 IS 3400 (Part 9) ii) Hardness, IRHD 60 ± 5 IS 3400 (Part 2) iii) Change in initial hardness after + 5 IS 3400 (Part 2 and Part4) accelerated ageing at 70º±1ºC for 168 h, IRHD 0 iv) Flexing resistance, No. of cycles, Min: Annex A

7 a) Initial crack b) 600 percent cut growth Bottom Filling For bottom filling, bonded cork, sawdust or bituminized hessian cloth shall be used Eyelets Brass or brass plated steel eyelets, suitably coated or covered to match the shade of the upper shall be used Heel Pins Rustproof, mild steel heel pins of nominal length of 25 mm shall be used Toe compound Hard setting cement or gum compound shall be used Rivets Spear pointed brass rivets of 12 mm and 14 mm nominal length shall be used Staple Copper plated steel wire Screw Wire Rustproof; mild steel screw wire shall be used Shanks The shoes shall be fitted with either seasoned wood or rustproof mild steel shank, 1.2 to 1.5 mm thick Lasting Tacks Rustproof mild steel lasting tacks of nominal length of 8 mm and 12.5 mm shall be used Components Each component of the shoe shall also comply with the requirements given in Table Shape and Design The shoes shall be made to the pattern, shape and design as shown in Fig. 1. The shoes shall be made on last in sizes 11 to 5 (see IS 4512). Fittings F and G are recommended. If desired, the purchaser shall specify type, sizes and fittings of the last in the order or contract. However, from the point of view of foot health as a guidance, the details of insole pattern is included in Annex B. 4.3 Manufacture FIG. 1 BOYS SCHOOL SHOES The shoes shall be made on well-fitting lasts (see 4.2.1). The various components of the shoe shall be cut to the thickness, shape and design as required in Table 1 and 2 and Fig. 1.

8 4.3.2 The upper components shall be skived and stitched after beading and other allied operations. Each side of facing shall have four eyelets fitted equidistantly. Each eyelet shall be clenched without distortion. Sl. No. TABLE 2 MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS OF VARIOUS COMPONENTS FOR BOYS SCHOOL SHOE ( Clause and 4.3.1) Components Material Thickness or Substance, mm Conforming to IS or clause No. Min Max (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) i) Full vamp Butt portion of full chrome IS 578 or or chrome retan upper IS 2961 leather ii) Vamp lining Cotton drill IS 177 iii) Tongue Remaining portion of upper leather IS 578 or IS 2961 iv) Toe cap do Do v) Back strap do Do vi) Quarters do Do vii) Full socks Lining leather or finished Do split lining leather viii) Quarter lining Lining leather IS 3840 ix) Insoles Well struck and rolled IS 579 shoulders of sole leather x) Outer soles Prime part of sole leather Do xi) Middle soles Well struck and rolled Do shoulders of sole leather xii) Welt Well struck and rolled Do shoulders of sole leather xiii) Lifts Compressed bellies of sole Do leather xiv) Stiffener Well struck shoulders and Do bellies of sole leather xv) Toe puff or cap do Do xvi) Top piece Prime part of sole leather Do xvii) Rubber bottom (if used in place of leather) a) Sole: Rubber Above cleats 7.5 Between cleats 4.0 b) Heel: Rubber Above cleats Between cleats NOTE Both odd pairs shall be identical for all thickness requirements.

9 4.3.3 All the bottom components shall be prepared and moulded before use. The insole shall be feathered between the heel breast and toe line. The outer sole shall be channelled The upper shall be tightly laced and up to the fourth eyelet before lasting so that a parallel gap of 6 mm is maintained between the two quarter. The shoes shall be lasted to pull the upper right down to the wood of the last. In order to ensure firm attachment of the upper to the insole a clear 12 mm lasting allowance all round the lasting edge of the upper shall be provided. The stiffener or counter shall not be short in any way; if shall be in level with the upper so that it remains under the grip of the lasting tacks. Any wrinkles along the feather, after lasting, shall be removed completely so that the feather line may be quite clear and distinct. The soles shall remain on the last till the toe and stiffener are set hard and strong A wooden or steel shank shall be fitted on the waist of the insole after lasting. The shank shall cover the waist of the insole from half of the seat portion up to tread or joint line. Bottom filling shall be done with materials specified in Depending upon the mode of construction agreed to between the purchaser and the supplier, the bottom shall be attached to the upper according to either , or In case of composite construction process, the full leather middle sole shall be riveted by means of mild steel rivets at the rate of 2 per centimetre. The outer sole shall then be stitched in an open channel with middle sole using threads as indicated in The stitches shall be 20 to 25 stitches per decimetre. For reinforcement, the sole shall be secured by mild steel screw wire, spaced 20 mm apart all round. NOTE The sole may be pieced under the heel. The heel shall be attached by means of rustproof heel pins In case of welted construction, it shall be done in the following ways: a) For Goodyear welting, the welt shall be stitched with the insole rib and the upper at the feather edge with threads given in with 3 or 4 stitches per 25 mm. b) For staple welting, the welt shall be attached with upper and insole at feather edge with staple in a machine, using 2 staple per 25 mm, or with blue cut tacks, 3 to 4 tacks per 25 mm, in case of hand process In case of direct vulcanization process, after lasting the shoes with insole, the lasted margin of upper shall be roughened and then cement shall be applied throughout the bottom. A pre-cut unvulcanized piece of rubber mix (see ) shall then be attached on the lasted shoe directly with the help of a vulcanizing machine. All extra flash of the rubber shall be trimmed off. 4.4 Finish The edge of the leather sole shall be trimmed close to feather line of the shoe and it shall be set in the required shade or colour.

10 4.4.2 The upper of the shoe shall be finished by polishing and brushing to impart shine and appearance to the shoes A full leather sock of matching colour shall be provided with every shoe. After ensuring that no nails or rough surfaces are present on the insole, the full sock shall be inserted into the shoe, and stuck down firmly on the top of insole with the help of an adhesive (see IS 4663) Cotton Laces The shoe shall be provided with two braided fabric laces each 60 cm long with a minimum breaking load of 23 kg and conforming to designation L 60/23 of IS SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY 5.1 For the purpose of ascertaining the conformity of the material in a consignment to this specification, the scale of sampling and criteria for conformity shall be as prescribed in IS MARKING 6.1 The size and fitting of the shoe shall be legibly stamped on the waist of the full sock. The manufacturer s name or recognized trade-mark, if any, together with the year of supply may also be legibly stamped on the waist of sock. 6.2 BIS Certification Marking The shoe may also be marked with the Standard Mark The use of the Standard mark is governed by the provision of Bureau of Indian Standard Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made there under. The details of conditions under which the licence for the use of Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards. 7 PACKING 7.1 Each pair of shoes shall be wrapped in tissue paper and put in a cardboard carton Each carton shall be marked with the size and fitting of the shoes. 8 TEST METHODS 8.1 Before opening out the shoes, test all visual and tactile characteristics of shoes selected in accordance with col 2 of Table 1 of IS 2051 for all such details given in Open out the sample of shoes, selected in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS 2051 and collect separately insole, outer sole (for rubber bottom collect sole and heel), stiffener (counter), vamp, tongue, lining, and full socks from each sample. 8.3 Test all the sample of shoes selected in accordance with col 4 of Table 1 of IS 2051 for all dimensional and material requirements specified in 4.

11 8.4 Testing for Bottom Components Leather Bottom To ascertain the conformity of bottom leather to IS 579, carry out all physical tests with test pieces, cut out from the outer soles from each of the samples selected in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS Cut equal amount of about 5 mm square pieces from insole, outer sole, top piece and stiffeners (see 8.2) from each sample selected for chemical test and mix thoroughly; ground and carry out chemical tests as required in IS 579 on the ground leather of the composite samples Rubber Bottom Cut test pieces directly from the sole and heel of samples selected in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS 2051 and carry out tests according to methods indicated in col 4 of table 1 of this standard. 8.5 Testing of Upper Components Carry out all physical tests as required in IS 578 or IS 2961 with test pieces, cut from vamps of each sample selected for chemical test in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS Cut equal amount of about 5 mm square pieces from vamp, socks, lining from each sample selected for chemical test (see 8.2) and mix thoroughly; ground and carry out all chemical tests required in IS 578 or IS 2961 on the ground leather of the composite sample. 8.6 Carry out the test with vamp lining fabric cut pieces in accordance with IS Carry out tests on cotton threads in accordance with the procedure specified in IS For this purpose, the supplier shall provide about 200 cm of threads in each variety which are similar in all respects with the threads used in stitching of various components of the shoes. 8.8 Test for Rustproofness Clean or degrease the heel pins, screw wire, steel shank or the lasting tacks, selected for this test with benzene (see IS 534). Dip in a solution of copper sulphate (CuSO 4.5H 2 O; relative density 1.17 g/ml at 27ºC) for a duration of one minute and take out. Wash, wipe and dry with a clean soft cloth. Repeat the process of immersion and drying four times and examine visually To pass the test the grinderies shall not show any sign of permanent red deposition of copper before or after the fourth dip. ANNEX A [Table 1, Item (iv)] FLEXING RESISTANCE A-1 FLEXING RESISTANCE FOR SOLE AND HEEL A-1.1 Outline of the Method This method determines resistance to initial cracking and 600 percent cut growth of rubber soles and heels of footwear cut-out directly from the material, by the Ross flexing machine. A-1.2 Apparatus

12 A Ross Flexing Machine A schematic diagram of Ross flexing machine is given in Fig. 2. The machine allows the flexed area of the specimen to bend freely over a rod of approximately 9.5 mm in diameter through an angle of 90º. A Piercing Tool and Holder A suitable form of piercing tool and holder is shown in Fig. 3. A Rule A rule of suitable length, graduated in steps of 0.25 mm is used for measuring the length of cut growth. A = Test specimen F = Supporting fixed roller B = Holder arm G = Pierced section C = Holder arm adjustment H = Road over which specimen bends freely through a 90 angle D = Adjustable roller E = Fixed lower roller A-1.3 Procedure FIG. 2 ROSS FLEXING MACHINE (SCHEMATIC) A Test Specimen Cut out directly from the outer soles test specimens of dimensions 25±1 mm width and a minimum of 150 mm in length by the standard knife for cutting samples for Ross flexing machine. A Procedure Thoroughly clean the inner surface of the sole layer without damaging the skin of the sole layer. Pierce one of the test specimens by the use of the piercing tool. For this, adjust the piercing tool in the holder with the cutting edge projecting 7.25 ± 0.25 mm from the base of the holder so that piercing tool will pierce completely through the test specimens when tapped. Before piercing the test specimen, lubricate the tests specimens with the solution of soap, that does not react with the compound. Place the test specimen with the designed surface of the sole on the top and cut by the piercing tool parallel to the width of the test specimen, at a right angle to and across the longitudinal centre line of the specimen at a point of 61.9 ± 0.1 mm from the clamped end. A Clamp unpierced test specimens to the holder arm of the flexing machine in such a position that the designed surface of the sole could be flexed at 90 angle. The holder arm shall be in a horizontal position when the test specimens are attached. Let down the adjustable top rollers until they just touch the

13 holder and lock in this position by means of the wing nuts, permitting free travel of the test specimens between the rollers during the bending movement. A After the test specimens have been attached as described, start the machine and run at a rate such that 100 ± 5 cycles per minute are obtained. Make frequent observations and record the number of cycles at the initial crack. Record the number of cycles by the use of the counter. A Clamp the pierced samples as described in A and start the machine at 100±5 cycles per machine. Make frequent observations, recording the number of cycles and increase in the cut length for the purpose of determining the rate of increase in the cut length. While observing the cut growth, the holder arm shall be at an angle approximately 45 vertically. Continue the test until the cut length has increased 500 percent, that is, until the combined length of the cut and crack has increased to a total of mm. NOTE In some cases the cut growth is not in a straight line as the continuation of the cut made by the piercing tool, and star-shaped cracking may develop. In this event, the cut growth shall be measured as the length of the longest continuous crack, regardless of its direction. A-1.4 Report Report the result from observation of at least two test specimens, average and report and report as the number of cycles for the initial crack and also for 600 percent cut growth. All dimensions in millimetres. FIG. 3 PIERCING TOOL AND HOLDER

14 ANNEX B ( Clause ) DETAILS OF INSOLE CONSTRUCTION B-1 DIRECTION FOR THE DESIGN OF INSOLE B-1.1 The insole of the shoe shall be cut to the design and shape as given in Fig. 4, with the details given below: AB = length line or length of insole. BC = 15 mm toe allowance. D = ball point. BD = 38 percent of AB. AE = size on Paris point, converted into millimetres. C = point joining the line HJ perpendicular to AB. AC = foot length. FG = ball line making an angle 75 at D with AB. Also width at ball and 38 percent of ball girth. FD = 38 percent of FG. FN = 60 percent of FG. NE drawn towards heel, represents heel axis line or the break line for symmetrical heel. HF = line drawn at an angle 94 to FG. This line intersects the line drawn through C at H. Angle GFH represents the big toe angle and is equal to 94. JG = line drawn at an angle 73 to FG. This line intersects the line drawn through C at J. Small toe angle JGF = 73. Draw little toe angle GFK, 30 at F on FG. Line FK cuts the line JG at K. LM = heel line = 2/3 of FG. LE = EM = 1/2 LM. Join points A, L, F, H, B, K, G, and M in a harmonic outline so that a nice shape of insole is achieved and it should pass at a distance of 4 to 5 mm from FH and 2 to 3 mm from GK. The drawing of outline between ball and seat line should be done with the help of a standard insole last. FIG. 4 INSOLE SHAPE

15 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C WIDE CIRCULATION DOCUMENT FOR BIS USE ONLY LAST DATE FOR COMMENTS भ रत य म नक मस द ल क य ललए ल ज त व ल ट Draft Indian Standard SCHOOL SHOES FOR GIRLS - SPECIFICATION ICS BIS 2015 B U R E A U O F I N D I A N S T A N D A R D S MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI August 2015 Price Group

16 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C FOREWORD (Formal clause to be added) The design prescribed in this standard for girls shoes has been developed primarily for school going girls for sizes 11 to 5. Keeping in view the foot comfort as well as the factors for the healthy growth of their feet, wide fitting E and F have been recommended. It is hoped that the educational authorities would popularize the shape and fitting recommended through their dress regulations for school going girls. Considerable assistance has been taken from Indian Standard 'IS 5259: 1969 Specification for Girls and Maids' School Shoes' since withdrawn, while developing this standard. For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS 2 : 1960 Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)'. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard.

17 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C Draft Indian Standard SCHOOL SHOES FOR GIRLS - SPECIFICATION 1 SCOPE This standard prescribes the requirements, method of sampling and test for girls school shoes. 2 REFERENCES The standards listed below contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this standard. At the time of publication, the editions indicated were valid. All the standards are subject to revision, and parties to agreements based on this standard are encouraged to investigate the possibility of applying the most recent edition of these standards. IS NO. TITLE 177: 1989 Cotton drills - Specification (Fourth revision) 534: 2007 Benzene - Specification (Fourth revision) 578: 1985 Full chrome upper leather (Third Revision) 579 : 1996 Vegetable tanned sole leather - Specification (third revision) 663: 1980 Specification for adzes (Second Revision) 1720 : 1978 Specification for cotton sewing threads (Second Revision) 2050 : 1991 Glossary of terms relating to footwear (first revision) 2051 : 1976 Methods of sampling of leather footwear (first revision) 2961: 1973 Chrome retan finished upper leather 3840: 2011 Specification for lining leathers (Third Revision) 4512 : 1978 Footwear Lasts, Wooden (first revision) 4663: 1968 Permanent Rubber-based Adhesives for Footwear Industry 3 TERMINOLOGY For the purpose of this standard, the definitions given in IS 2050 shall apply. 4 REQUIREMENTS 4.1 Material Upper Leather Printed or plain full-chrome upper leather conforming to IS 578 or chrome retan upper leather conforming to IS 2961 shall be used. The shade of the upper leather shall be as agreed to between the purchaser and the supplier Quarter Lining Lining leather conforming to IS 3840 shall be used as quarter lining Vamp Lining Cotton drill conforming to variety No. 2, prescribed in IS 177 shall be used Bottom Material Vegetable tanned sole leather conforming to type 1 of IS 579 shall be used If required, water resistant sole leather conforming to type 2 of IS 579 may also be used, subject to agreement between the purchaser and the supplier Threads Upper closing For upper closing thread conforming to variety No. 15 and 9 of IS 1720 shall be used. NOTE Silk, nylon or linen thread of suitable quality may be used subject to agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.

18 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C Stitching of bottom components The bottom components shall be stitched with linen thread 92 tex x 8 (or 18 s /8 linen count) having a minimum breaking strength of 23 kg when tested on 50 cm length with 20 cm/min rate of traverse of power actuated grips of a testing machine Buckle Rust-proof roller buckles according to width of the strap ranging from 12 mm to 18 mm shall be used Bottom Filling Bonded cork or sawdust or bituminized hessian cloth shall be used Heel Pins Rust-proof mild steel heel pins of nominal length of 20 mm shall be used Toe Compound Hard setting cement or gum compound shall be used Shanks The shoes shall be fitted with shanks made of either wood or rust-proof mild steel, 1.2 to 1.5 mm thick Lasting Tacks Rust-proof mild steel lasting tacks of nominal length of 8 mm and 12.5 mm shall be used Components Each component of the sole shall further comply with the requirements given in Table 1. Table 1 Requirements of Various Components for Girls School Shoes (Clause ) Sl. No. Components Material Thickness or Substance, mm Conforming to IS no. Min Max (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) i) Vamp Prime part of full chrome or chrome retan upper leather IS 578 or IS 2961 sides ii) Straps Remaining portion of upper do leather sides iii) Quarter Natural coloured vegetable IS 3840 lining tanned lining leather iv) Full sock do do v) Vamp lining Cotton drill IS 177 vi) Insoles Well struck and rolled IS 579 shoulders or bellies of sole leather vii) Outer sole Prime part of bend of sole do leather viii) Top piece do do ix) Stiffener Well struck shoulders or do bellies of sole leather x) Toe puff do do 4.2 Shape and Design The shoes shall be made to the pattern, shape and design as shown in Fig. 1. The shoes shall be made on lasts in sizes 11 to 5 (see IS 4512); fitting E and F are recommended. If desired, the purchaser shall specify type, sizes and fitting of the last in the order or contract. However, as a guidance from the point of view of foot health, the details of insole pattern are included in Annex A.

19 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C 4.3 Manufacture The shoes shall be made on lasts (see 4.2). The various components of the shoe shall be cut to the thickness, shape and design as required in Table 1 and Fig. 1. The upper components shall be skived and stitched after beading and punching The upper shall be closed with lock stitching using threads as given in The number of stitches shall be 5 to 6 per centimeter. All loose ends of the threads shall be secured A metal roller buckle shall be used according to the width of the strap. FIG. 1 GIRLS SCHOOL SHOES All the bottom components shall be prepared and moulded before use. The insole shall be feathered between the heel breast and toe line and the outer sole channelled The upper shall be lasted to pull the upper right down to the wood of the last. In order to ensure firm attachment of the upper to the insole a clear 12 mm lasting allowance all round the lasting edge of the upper shall be provided. The stiffeners shall not be shorter than the corresponding uppers. Before lasting stiffeners and toe puffs shall be pasted and inserted into the upper and upper lasted with tacks. Any wrinkles along the feather, after lasting, shall be removed completely so that the feather line may be quite clear and distinct A bamboo or steel shank shall be fitted on the waist of the insole after lasting. The shank shall cover the waist of the insole from half of the seat portion up to tread or joint line. Bottom fitting shall be done with materials specified in Thirteen-millimetre high heel shall be used. The sole shall be stitched with chain stitches using threads specified in The stitches shall be 6 stitches per 5 centimeters. The heel shall be attached by means of rust-proof heel pins. NOTE The sole may be pieced under the heel For cemented process, the lasted margin of the upper and the sole shall be roughened and suitable adhesive (see IS 4663) shall be applied. Then the sole shall be placed on the lasted shoe under cementing press. 4.4 Finish The edge of the leather sole shall be trimmed close to feather line of the shoe and it shall be set in the required shade or colour The upper of the shoe shall be finished by polishing and brushing to impart shine to the shoes A full leather sock of matching colour shall be provided with every shoe. After ensuring that no nails or rough surfaces are present on the insole, the full sock shall be inserted into the shoe and stuck down firmly on the top of insole with the help of an adhesive (see IS 663).

20 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C 5 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY 5.1 For the purpose of ascertaining the conformity of the material in a consignment of this specification, the scale of sampling and criteria for conformity shall be as prescribed in IS MARKING 6.1 The size and fitting of the shoe shall be legibly stamped on the waist of the full sock. The manufacture s name or recognized trademark, if any, together with the year of supply may also be legibly stamped on the waist of sock. 6.2 BIS Certification Marking Each shoe may also be marked with the Standard Mark The use of the Standard mark is governed by the provision of Bureau of Indian Standard Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made there under. The details of conditions under which the licence for the use of Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards. 7 PACKING 7.1 Each pair of shoes shall be wrapped in tissue paper and put in a cardboard carton Each carton shall be marked with the size and fitting of the shoes. 8 TEST METHODS 8.1 Before opening out the shoes, test for all visual and tactile characteristics of shoes selected in accordance with col 2 of Table 1 of IS 2051 for all such details given in Open out the sample of shoes selected in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS 2051, and collect separately inner sole, outer sole, stiffeners, vamp, straps, lining and full socks from each sample. 8.3 Test all the samples of shoes, selected in accordance with col 4 of Table 1 of IS 2051 for all dimensional and material requirements specified in Testing for Bottom Component To ascertain the conformity of the bottom leather to IS 579 carry out all physical tests with test pieces cut out from the outer sole from each of the samples selected in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS Cut equal amount of about 5 mm square pieces from inner sole, outer sole, top pieces and stiffeners (see 8.2) from each sample, selected for chemical test and mix thoroughly, ground and carry out tests as required in IS 579 on the ground leather of the composite sample. 8.5 Testing of Upper Components Carry out all physical tests as required in IS 578 or IS 2961 with test pieces cut from vamps of each sample selected for chemical test in accordance with col 6 of Table 1 of IS Cut equal amount of about 5 mm square pieces from vamp, sock, lining from each sample selected for chemical test (see 8.2) and mix thoroughly, ground and carry out all chemical tests required in IS 578 or IS 2961 on the ground leather of the composite sample. 8.6 Carry out the test with vamp lining fabric cut pieces in accordance with IS Carry out tests on both linen and cotton threads in accordance with the procedure specified in Annex B of IS For this purpose, the supplier shall provide about 200 cm of threads in each variety which is similar in all respects with the threads used in stitching of various components of the shoes.

21 Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C 8.8 Test for Rust-Proofness Clean or degrease the buckles, heel pins or the lasting tacks selected for this test with benzene (see IS 534). Dip in a solution of copper sulphate (CuSO 4.5H 2 O; relative density 1.17 at 27ºC) for duration of one minute and take out. Wash, wipe and dry with a clean soft cloth. Repeat the process of immersion and drying four times and examine visually To pass the test, the buckles, heel pins or the lasting tacks shall not show any sign of permanent red deposition of copper before or after the fourth dip. ANNEX A (Clause 4.2) DETAILS OF INSOLE CONSTRUCITON A-1 DIRECTION FOR THE DESIGN OF INSOLE A-1.1 The insole of the shoe shall be cut to the design and shape as given in Fig. 2 with the details given below: AB = length line or length of insole. BC = 15 mm toe allowance. BD = 37 percent of AB. D = ball point. AE = size on paris point, converted into mm. C = point joining the line HJ, perpendicular to AB. AC = foot length. FG = ball line making an angle 75º at D with AB. Also width at ball and 38 percent of ball girth. FD = 38 percent of FG. FN = 60 percent of FG, NE dawn towards heel, represents heel axis line or the break line for symmetrical heel. HF = line drawn at an angle 72º to FG. This line intersects the line JH at H. Angle GFH represents the big toe angle and is equal to 93º. JG = line drawn at an angle 72º to FG. This line intersects the line drawn through C at J. Small toe angle JGF = 72º. Draw little toe angle GFK, 30º at F on FG. Line FK cuts the line GJ at K. LM = heel line = of FG. LE = EM = ½ LM. Join the points A, L, F, H, B, K, G and M in a harmonic outline so that a nice shape of insole is achieved and it should pass at a distance of 3 to 4 mm from FH and 2 to 3 mm from GK. The drawing of outline between ball and seat line should be done with the help of a standard insole last.

22 FIG. 2 INSOLE SHAPE Doc No. CHD 19 (2210)C

23 FORMAT FOR SENDING COMMENTS ON BIS DOCUMENTS (Please use A4 size sheet of paper only and type within fields indicated. Comments on each clauses/sub-clauses/table/fig. etc be started on a fresh box. Information in Column 4 should include reasons for the comments and suggestions for modified wording of the clauses when the existing text is found not acceptable. Adherence to this format facilitates Secretariat s work) Doc. No.: TITLE: LAST DATE OF COMMENTS: NAME OF THE COMMENTATOR/ORGANIZATION: Sl. No. Clause/Subclause/ para/table/fig. No. commented Commentator/ Organization/ Abbreviation Type of Comments (General/Editorial/ Technical) Justification Proposed change