TRIM SMARTER. Contractor Handbook. versatexpert.com

Transcription

1 TRIM SMARTER. Contractor Handbook versatexpert.com

2 Table of contents Introduction... 5 Product Offerings Trimboard... 6 Sheet... 7 Cornerboard... 8 Beadboard... 9 Stealth Window Surround Stealth Cornerboard Stealth Skirtboard...12 Soffit System VERSAWRAP Mouldings Crown Profiles...16 Cove Profiles...17 Casing Profiles Sill Profiles...18 Additional Profiles...19 Stealth CADS Soffit CADS...23 Finishing System...24 Installing Cutting...25 Routing Drilling Fastening Sealants and Adhesives Filling Nail Holes...30 Painting Moisture

3 Cleaning...34 Storage and Handling...34 Safety...34 Expansion/Contraction Heat Bending ASTM Chart...39 Installing Proprietary Products Stealth Window Surrounds Stealth Corners Stealth Skirtboard Soffit System VERSAWRAP Best Practices of Typical Construction Detail Porch Ceiling with Beadboard Pergola Beam Fabrication Moulding Installation...61 Brick Mould Installation...62 Use of Beadcap & Adams Casing with Beadboard Water Table Starter Custom Crown Moulding Piece...65 Custom Moulding with Bed Mould and Panel Mould...66 Custom Moulding with Rams Crown and Base Cap...67 Sill and Brick Mould Window Application Frequently Asked Questions Other Construction Related Documents Notes This guide is designed to answer questions and provide detailed guidance for builders and contractors working with cellular PVC. It has been developed in large part through discussions with installers who have a working knowledge of PVC trims and have been willing to share best practices in a variety of areas. This guide will introduce you to all products, thus ensuring you are ordering exactly what you need for your job. It will also provide both generic installation information and detailed accounts of specific construction practices. Finally, it will serve as a trouble-shooting guide to help you avoid common pitfalls associated with installing PVC trim. Our goal at is to provide you with the best possible installation information available so that your experience with our products is a favorable one. Should you require additional information that is not found in this document, please feel free to contact our engineering department directly at (724) or look us up online at 4 5

4 I. Products Trimboard Sheet Nominal Sizes Width (inches) Thickness (inches) /8" ( 5 /8" Actual) 1" ( 3 /4" Actual) 5/4" (1" Actual) 6/4" (1 1 /4" Actual) smooth only 8/4" (1 1 /2" Actual) smooth only Available in standard 18' lengths. Custom lengths available in UNIT quantities. Can be ordered reversible - Smooth/Timber Ridge or Smooth/Smooth 1 1 /2 " trimboards subject to extended lead times Actual Sizes Width and Length (feet) Thickness (inches) 4x8 4x10 4x12 4x18 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" 1" 1 1 /4" 1 1 /2" Custom lengths available in UNIT quantities. 1 1 /2 " sheet width is nominal 48", actual 47.5" +/- 1 /2 " 1 1/2 " sheet subject to extended lead times 6 7

5 Cornerboards BeadBoard/ beaded sheet Nominal Sizes Length and Finish smooth Timber Ridge Thickness (inches) 10' 20' 10' 20' 5/4 x 4" 5/4 x 6" 5/4 x 8" Special 12' and 22' corners available in UNIT quantities. Special 10" width corners available in UNIT quantities. Nominal Sizes Actual Size Length 8' 10' 12' 18' 1/2" x 4" (Regular) 1/2" x 3 1 /2" 1/2" x 6" (Regular) 1/2" x 5 1 /2" 1" x 6" (Regular) 3/4" x 5 1 /2" 1/2" x 4" (Stealth) 1/2" x 3 1 /2" 1/2" x 6" (Stealth) 1/2" x 5 1 /2" 1" x 6" (Stealth) 3/4" x 5 1 /2" 1/2" x 4' (Sheet) 1/2" x 4' 5/8" x 3" (T-Mould) 5/8" x 2 1 /2" WP4 Tongue & Groove 3/4" x 5 7 /16" 1"x4"x18' Nominal Stealth and Regular Beadboard available in UNIT quantities. Stealth Beadboard 8 9

6 Standard Stealth Trim with Flange Slot Stealth Window Surrounds Stealth Trim with Flange Slot Stealth Cornerboard Stealth Window Surround Length and Finish Nominal Sizes smooth Timber Ridge 18' 18' 5/4" x 4" 5/4" x 6" 5/4" x 8" (Standard Stealth Only) Stealth Corners Length and Finish Nominal Sizes Smooth Timber Ridge 10' 20' 10' 20' 5/4" x 4" 5/4" x 6" 5/4" x 8" Special 12' and 22' corners available in UNIT quantities. Special 10" width corners available in UNIT quantities. Stealth Corner All sizes available in Standard Stealth, Stealth with Flange Slot and Trim with Flange Slot. (See drawings page 11) 10 11

7 Stealth SkirtBoard Versatex Soffit System Stealth Skirtboard Length and Finish Nominal Sizes Smooth Timber Ridge 18' 18' 5/4" x 4" 5/4" x 6" 5/4" x 8" 1" x 8" 1" x 10" Vented and Solid Soffit Actual Sizes Smooth Only Vented solid 12' 18' 12' 18' 1/2" x 12" 1/2" x 16" Vented Soffit System 10 square inches of free air space Stealth Skirtboard Notched Fascia Length and Finish Nominal Sizes Smooth Timber Ridge 18' 18' 1" x 8" 1" x 10" Notched Fascia 12 13

8 Frieze Board Length and Finish Nominal Sizes Smooth Timber Ridge 18' 18' 5/4 " x 6 " 5/4 " x 8 " Frieze Board Versawrap tm Accent Wraps VERSAWRAP ACCENT WRAPS Nominal Sizes length 10" 4" x 4" (inside dim. 4 3 /4") 6" x 6" (inside dim. 6 3 /4") 8" x 8" (inside dim. 9 1 /2 ") Versawrap tm moulding kits Versawrap tm VERSAWRAP Nominal Sizes length 8'6" 10' 4" x 4" (inside dim. 3 3 /4") 6" x 6" (inside dim. 5 3 /4") 8" x 8" (inside dim. 8 1 /2") Custom 10" wraps available in UNIT quantities 10" long Accent Wraps available for 4", 6" and 8" wraps. Pre-cut mitered Mouldings with Hoffman Dovetail Connectors also sold separately. VERSAWRAP VERSAWRAP TRIM KITS 4" Wraps 6" Wraps 8" Wraps Base Cap base Cap base Cap Bed Mould bed Mould bed Mould Bed Mould XL Bed Mould Xl bed Mould XL Crown Mould Crown Mould crown Mould Crown Mould XL Crown Mould XL Crown Mould XL All Moulding Kits are pre-cut to length, mitered, and sold in bags with Hoffman Dovetail Connectors for easy assembly and designed to fit snugly around outside dimension of specific size wrap (4", 6", or 8"). XL Bed Moulding and XL Crown Moulding Kits are cut longer to fit around outside dimension of Accent Wrap. All Crown Moulding Kits are made with 4" Crown Mould profile (3 5 /8" actual). Base Cap Bed Mould 4" Crown Versawrap tm POST caps VERSAWRAP Post Caps Actual Inside Dimension 4 3 /4" x 4 3 /4" 6 3 /4" x 6 3 /4" Post Cap 14 15

9 Mouldings All moulding profiles are available in 16' lengths. Brick Mould is produced at a premium length of 17' 6" and our J-Channel Brick comes in 18' lengths to allow for one piece per entry door. Crown Profiles 2 3 /4" 9 /16" 7 1 /2" Cove Profiles 3 /4" 3 /4" Quarter Round PCBQTRROUND (WM 105) 3 /4" 3 /4" 1 1 /2" Scotia Cove PCBSCOTIACOVE (WM 93) 1 1 /2" Baluster PCBBALUSTER (WM 236) 3" Crown PCB3" CROWN (WM 52) 3 5 /8" 4 5 /8" 9 /16" 4" Crown PCB4" CROWN (WM 49) 11 /16" 1" 8" Crown PP8" CROWN 2 1 /4" 1 1 /8" Solid Crown PCBSOLIDCROWN (WM 212) 1 13 /32" Casing Profiles 11 /16" 1 1 /8" Base Cap PCBBASECAP (WM 164) 2" 1 1 /4" 1 1 /16" 1" 2" Rake Moulding PCBRAKEMOULDING (287) 2" 13 /16" 5" Crown PCB5" CROWN (WM 47) 5 1 /4" 11 /16" 6" Crown PCB6" CROWN (WM 45) 2 1 /16" Rams Crown PCBRAMSCROWN 9 /16" 1 3 /4" Bed Mould PCBBEDMOULD (WM 75) Brick Mould PCBBRICKMOULD (WM 180) 1 29 /500" 3 1 /2" Adams Casing PCBADAMSCASING (WM 97) J-Channel Brick PPJBRICK 1 11 /32" 1 3 /16" Backband PCBBACKBAND (WM 281) 16 17

10 Sill Profiles Additional Profiles 21 /32" 11 /16" Sill PPSILL /16" 1 17 /64" 1 17 /32" 1 5 /8" Shingle Mould PCBSHINGLEBAND (WM 210) 11 /16" 1 23 /32" Panel Mould PCBPANEL217 (WM 217) 1 3 /4" 2 3 /8" 1 1 /2" 1 5 /8" Drip Cap PCBDRIPCAP (WM 197) 1 /4" 4 /5" 1 7 /8" Heavy Sill Nose PPHEAVYSILL 1 3 /8" Sub Sill Nose PCBSUBSILLNOSE (WM 282) 1 5 /16" 3 /4" 1 /2" Water Table PPWATERTABLE 2" 2 3 /4" 5 /8" 1 3 /25" Beadboard Cap PPBEADCAP 2 1 /32" 1 11 /32" 72 /85" 73 /200" 1 3 /4" Historic Sill PCBHISTORICSILL Sill Nose PPSILLNOSE 1" Garage Seal PPGARAGEDOORSM 39 /20" 18 19

11 Stealth CAD Drawings Stealth Skirtboard Standard Stealth Trim 7 1/4" 5 5/8" 3/4" 7/8" 3 1/2" 2 3/4" 3/4" 3/4" 1" 1/4" 1" Nominal 5/4" x 8" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 4" and 6" Profiles) 7 1/4" Nominal 5/4" x 4" Profile 5 5/8" 1/2" 7/8" (Also available in a Nominal 6" and 8" Profiles) Trim with Flange Slot 3 1/2" Nominal 1" x 8" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 10" Profile) 1/4" 3/4" 3/16" 13/16" 1 7/8" 1 5/8" Nominal 5/4" x 4" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 6") 1" Stealth Beadboard 1/2" 4" 219/500" 1 47/250" 1 217/1000" Stealth Trim with Flange Slot Nominal 1/2" x 4" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 1"x 4" Profile) 3 1/2" 1/4" 6" 3/16" 13/16" 1 7/8" 7/8" Nominal 5/4" x 4" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 6") 3/4" 3/4" 1" 1/2" 219/500" 2 47/250" 2 47/250" Nominal 1/2" x 6" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 1"x 6" Profile) 20 21

12 T Mould soffit CAD Drawings 1/2" 5/8" Vented Soffit 1/2" 1 1/2" 1/2" 2 1/2" Nominal 5/8" x 3" T-Mould Profile 4" 5 1/2" (varies) 1/8" 1/4" 4" 3 1/2" Stealth Corner 1" TYP. 3/4" 8" Actual 1/2" x 12" Profile (Also available in 16" Profile) 3" (TYP.) 3/4" Frieze Board 6 3/16" 1/2" 3 1/2" HOT MELT BEAD 3/4" 1" 3/4" 9/16" 1/2" 3/4" 6 1/2" 3 1/2" 3/4" 7 1/4" Nominal 5/4" x 8" Profile (Also available in Nominal 6" Profile) Nominal 5/4" x 4" Profile (Also available in a Nominal 6", 8" and 10" Profiles) Notched Fascia 6 3/16" 1/2" 9/16" 1/2" 3/4" 7 1/4" Nominal 1" x 8" Profile (Also available in Nominal 10" Profile) 22 23

13 Finishing System II. Installing Versatex Installing requires the same tools and fasteners as wood and engineered wood trims. CUTTING Carbide-tipped blades with fewer teeth are preferred (32 tooth blade optimal). Rough cut edges are typically caused by excessive friction, poor board support, or worn/improper tooling. (See Technical Bulletin C-1 for more information). Weld-On Sizes Available Weld-On 4oz 8oz 16oz 32oz 128oz #705 White #705 Clear Weld-On 5oz Squeeze Tube (white only) ROUTING Standard wood working carbide-tipped bits with multiple flutes are recommended. Secure to a fixed object before routing. Tip: Sand with 320 grit sand paper and wipe down cuts with solvent to clean and reseal cells to reduce dust and dirt build-up. Tip: When making 90ºinside cuts, use tooling that creates a small radius rather than 90º angles to prevent stress cracking. Tip: Spray router and yourself with Static Guard to keep dust off you and your equipment. (See Technical Bulletin C-1 for more information). Biscuits #20 sold in boxes of

14 ROUTING (cont'd) We recommend speeds of 8,000 RPM's or greater. We have found that the higher the RPM, the smoother the surface of the milled board. We recommend feed rates between 40 and 60 FPM, depending on material thickness, the profile being cut, and tooling wear. Too fast a feed rate will lead to surface chatter. It is important that the board be held in place during the routing to prevent or minimize material vibration. Vibration will lead to chatter lines across the face of the moulding profile produced. Tip: Maintain sharp tooling. Worn tooling or tooling with chips will create a ripping or chatter look in the core of the cellular PVC board. This can also lead to softening or gumming of the core due to heat build-up. Drilling can be drilled using standard woodworking drill bits. Do not use drill bits made for rigid PVC. Point angle - 90º-110º, spiral angle -30º, Relief angle -10º Remove shavings periodically from a drill hole as necessary to avoid frictional heat build-up. (See Technical Bulletin C-1 for more information). Fastening Use 8d nails designed for wood trim and siding that have thin shanks, blunt points and full round heads with annular threads. Fasteners must penetrate a full 1 1 /4" into substrate. (stud or joist) Fasten 2" maximum from end of boards. Stainless fasteners are preferred over galvanized, as there s less chance of corrosion. (galv. stripping off fasteners) Nail guns can be used PSI between dependent upon gun, nail, outside temperature, and substrate. Use 7d trim screws to better control expansion/contraction. In temps under 40 F, pre-drilling may be required. Fastening Schedule To best control movement of boards Board Width Fasteners per width a maximum of every 16 on center 4" & 6" 2 8" & 10" 3 12" "

15 Fastening Pattern Recommended Fastener Nails Example: 12" Board Below 8d Nails with Annular threads (ex. Simpson Strong-Tie Trifecta Nail). The Trifecta Nail is available collated for use with a variety of nail guns. 16" OC Apply 3 fasteners every 16" OC Recommended Fastener Screws Fasten Master Cortex System Screw Plug System with Plugs Sealants and Adhesives PVC Cements: Weld-On #705, Trim Tight by Trim Glue, Glue by Ze-VO Products Group, or Christy s Red Hot Methacylates with UV Inhibitors (2 components) PVC TrimWelder by Extreme Adhesives *Eliminates need to fill fasteners or screw holes. Simpson Strong-Tie 2 1 /4" Trim Screw or Equal. Can be set flush with trim. Tip: Always apply adhesives to one piece of and press together to get superior bond. NPC Solar Seal 900; Quad by OSI; Various urethane Sealants *Sealant should be polymer-based containing solvents Do not use silicone

16 Bonding to Itself Weld-On 705 PVC adhesive, Trim Tight, Glue by Ze-VO Products Group, or Christy s Red Hot PVC TrimWelder by Extreme Adhesives *Most PVC cements cure in 3 5 minutes and have a limited working time. Bonding to Wood Liquid Nails Subfloor or Heavy Duty Construction adhesive NPC Solar Seal 900 Polyurethane-based adhesives (PL s or equivalent) Bonding to Metal PVC TrimWelder two component methacrylate by Extreme Adhesives Bonding to Concrete or Block PVC TrimWelder by Extreme Adhesives NPC Solar Seal 900 *Must be used in conjunction with mechanical fasteners. *Always test sealants and adhesives for compatibility before applying. Filling Nail Holes Best Method: Cortex Concealed Fastening System for PVC Trim PAINTING does not require painting for protection. Use paints that are 100% acrylic latex or acrylic latex with urethane additive. **CAUTION: PAINTING ANY CELLULAR PVC TRIM, INCLUDING, DARK COLORS CAN RESULT IN POOR PERFORMANCE AND WILL VOID THE WARRANTY. USE PAINTS WITH A LIGHT REFLECTIVE VALUE (LRV) OF 55 UNITS OR GREATER. Options for Dark Colors Consult AquaSurTech OEM or Blue River Coatings on heat reflective paints in applications where the paint color has an LRV value less than 55 units. When using paints, the liability of performance rests with the paint manufacturer. Heat reflective paints with an LRV between 45 and 55 have proven successful in the field. Tips on Painting To obtain adequate paint adhesion, be sure the surface of the Trimboard is clean, dry and free of dirt, loose or peeling paint, mildew, chalk, grease and any other surface contaminants before applying paint. Use a mild detergent (Spic n Span ) and water or denatured alcohol for cleaning. Paint can take up to 30 days to fully cure, depending on outside temperatures and humidity conditions. Follow the paint manufacturer s surface preparation and application recommendations. If you paint a dark color, you must first remove it before applying a lighter color paint with an LRV of 55 units or greater. Before painting, remove any mold or mildew using a mixture of three parts water, two parts bleach. Paint life is longer when applied to versus wood due to the absence of moisture in the trim. In most cases, the paint manufacturer will require a primer if the homeowner wants the paint warranty

17 Example of Unacceptable Paint Colors: Less than 55 LRV Units Pay attention to Light Reflective Values (LRV) when painting. Example of Acceptable Paint Colors: Greater than 55 LRV Units Pay attention to Light Reflective Values (LRV) when painting. LRV 15 LRV 28 LRV 60 LRV 65 LRV 38 LRV 41 LRV 73 LRV

18 Moisture can be installed at or below grade, as it does not absorb moisture. is perfect for use in moisture-prone applications such as garage door jambs, column wraps, ground contact, masonry contact, hot tub surrounds, and at rooflines. Cleaning will not support mold and mildew growth. (ASTM G-21-96) If products get dirty, clean with products like Soft Scrub with Bleach, Spic n Span, Clorox Regular Bleach, Clorox Clean-Up, Clorox Outdoor Bleach Cleaner, OxiClean, or Corte Clean. Use a nylon brush or Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for stubborn stains. Use 320 grit sand paper to reduce cell size on cut edges of boards. Test any cleaner on an inconspicuous area before use. Managing Expansion and Contraction Movement occurs due to temperature fluctuations. This movement is restricted to the length of the product. The product will not swell or shrink like wood experiencing a moisture cycle., like any PVC trim, will expand (lengthen) when it warms and contract (shrink) when it cools. Tips on Expansion and Contraction Expansion and contraction is ONLY an issue on longer runs (rake, fascia, frieze) comprised of multiple pieces of 18' boards (short lengths, around windows for example, can and should be built with tight joints). The more the product is mechanically fastened or bonded on longer runs, the less likely it will move. Screws restrict movement more than nails. Storage and handling Store on a flat level surface, as it has a tendency to conform to the surface on which it is stored. Handle as you would a premium lumber to avoid damage. Keep free of dirt and debris. Clean after installation as described above. Do not store or place on asphalt or in areas prone to excessive heat build-up. SAFETY All machining should be done in a well-ventilated area. Safety glasses should be worn whenever you are working with. When cutting with a power saw, a dust mask is recommended. As a rule, if you can bend the fastener in your fingers, it is too thin (no wire or brad nails). 18 galv. and 16 galv. trim nails are not recommended. You can further restrict movement on longer runs by reducing on center fastening to 12". Southern exposure, or areas where product is in direct sunlight, can result in greater movement. More fasteners should be used &/or wider expansion joints. All joints in high traffic or visible areas should be glued tight. Expansion/contraction joints should be placed in inconspicuous areas along the run of trim. Allow to acclimate to outside temperature before installing if possible, install long runs when boards and outside temperature are approximately F. Shiplap joints offer a superior joint, especially on long runs

19 Best Practice to Control Expansion and Contraction at Board Joints Method #1: Glue the Joints Secure (High Traffic Areas) 1. Shiplap the boards at the joint, and glue the boards together with Weld-On #705 or another acceptable PVC cement. 2. When possible, apply construction adhesive to back side of boards. Liquid Nails Sub Floor Adhesives or Heavy Duty Construction adhesive works well when attaching a fascia board to a subfascia. 3. Double fasten on both sides of joint (remember: screws work best). Use proper amount of fasteners based on width of boards. 4. If necessary, allow for movement at the ends of the boards or at inconspicuous joints. Method #2: Leaving an Expansion Joint 1. Based on temperature at time of installation (see chart below), create a gap between boards. 2. Follow proper fastening methods previously outlined. 3. Place UV-resistant acrylic-based or polymer-based sealant in joint between boards (NPC Solar Seal #900 or equal is recommended). 4. Never completely fill joint with sealant. Leave room to compensate for joint closure. Best Method: Shiplap Joint 100 o F TIGHT 50 o F TIGHT TIGHT 1/8 1/16 1/16 Best Method: Shiplap Apply construction adhesive 2'-0" on each side of joints (min.) Below 50 o F > 1/8 > 1/16 > 1/16 Subfascia PVC Fascia Two sets of 8d nails on each side of joint Shiplap Joint, bonded with Weld-On 705, 4052 Trim Tight or PVC TrimWelder HEAT BENDING can be heat formed or bent. Convection ovens are best for heat forming. Take a piece of duct pipe 5'-10' longer than your longest board and insulate. To keep the board flat so it does not take the shape of the duct pipe, place a grating in the duct pipe to support the trim

20 To monitor temperature, place a meat thermometer through the side wall of the duct pipe approximately at the midpoint. Place two torpedo heaters, one at each end of the duct pipe, forcing hot air into the pipe until the trim reaches a temperature of 270 F to 300 F. Hold this temperature for roughly 20 minutes, making sure the trim has had the chance to soak in the heat. Bending is an art and requires trial and error before you become proficient. If the heated piece crimps or resists bending anywhere along the edge, it is still too cold in those spots. All cellular PVC trims bend, although they may require slightly different temperature profiles to get a perfect bend. Tip: To keep product from distorting, rippling, etc, heat at 270 F for 10 to 15 minutes. Then take the product up to 300 F for no more than 5 minutes. If the product is rippling, the ripples can be pulled out by tugging on the ends like you would taffy. The only issue here is that you may lose a little product thickness in the drawdown process. Other Methods: Cellular PVC boards can also be heat bent using a duct pipe and torpedo heater or a PVC pipe and a wallpaper steamer. The goal is to get the temperature of the trimboard somewhere between 290 F and 300 F. ASTM Chart PROPERTY UNITS VALUE ASTM METHOD Physical Density g/cm³ 0.55 D 792 Water Absorption % <0.50 D 570 Mechanical Tensile Strength psi 3500 D 638 Tensile Modulus psi 100,000 D 638 Flexural Strength psi 5100 D 790 Flexural Modulus psi 215,000 D 790 Modulus of Elasticity psi 205,000 D 1037 Elongation % 9 d 638 Nail Hold Lbf/in 300+ D 1761 of penetration Staple Hold Lbf/in 69 d 1037 of penetration Screw Hold Lbf/in 240+ D 1037 of penetration Gardner Impact In-lbs 34 d 5420 Notched Izod Impact Ft-lbs/inch d 256 Termite Resistance d 3345 Hardness Lbf/in 60+ D 2240 Parking Garage psf -225 UL580 Ceiling Soffit System Thermal Coefficient of in/in/ F 3.24 x 10-5 D 696 Linear Expansion Burning Rate In/min Failed to Ignite D 635 Flame Spread Index -- Less than 25 E 84 Heat Deflection F 146 D 648 Temp (264 psi) Oil Canning F passed D 648 (@ 140 F) 38 39

21 III. INSTALLING PROPRIETARY PRODUCTS With the builder in mind, has created a proprietary group of products including the Stealth Trim System, which helps save time and improve aesthetics. The recommended installation methods of installing these products are on the following pages. Stealth Window Surrounds Standard Stealth Trim (A) Stealth w/ Flange Slot (B) Trim w/ Flange Slot (C) Stealth Window Surround Installation Before installing the Stealth Window Trim, be sure the window area is properly prepared to accept it. The window should be installed square, true and plumb. It should be weather proofed as per manufacturers specifications. window surrounds are not intended to be part of the window weather proofing. Flash window opening in accordance with AAMA Method A1. Having measured the window, cut the Stealth Trim to create a picture frame. Pocket screw and glue the Stealth Window Trim pieces to create a Stealth Window Surround (see fig. B, pg 43). We recommend using the Historic Sill (see fig. C, pg 43) at the base of the window surround, the Stealth Trim with Flange Slot for the jambs and the Trim with Flange Slot at the window header (see fig A, pg. 42). Before installing the Stealth Window Surround, run a bead of sealant down the backside edge just outside the pocket. Nail the window surround the same way as Trim, being sure not to nail through the overhang that conceals your siding. Although this overhang piece is 1/4" thick, it may break if struck with a hammer. Use stainless steel 8d annular or spiral fasteners designed for wood trim and siding. Fasteners with thin shanks, blunt points, and full round heads are preferred. The fastener must be long enough to penetrate the substrate a minimum of 1 1/4". Place nails a maximum of 16" on center. At the window header, bend a piece of light gage copper or aluminum into J or drip edge (see fig. B, pg. 43) and place it on the trim before installing the siding. Install the siding around the perimeter of the window in accordance with the manufacturer's installation guidelines

22 Stealth Window Installation Stealth Window Installation Figure A Field-bent aluminum or copper drip edge Figure B Cut Stealth Pocket in Header trim to accept siding. There should be no Stealth Pocket on the top. Picture frame, glue, and pocket screw corners Trim with Flange Slot Stealth pocket receives siding Stealth Trim with Flange Slot Typical fiber cement or composite wood siding Historic Sill Continue dimensions of factory Stealth Pocket by removing segment of sill to receive siding. This step is not required when using Trim with Flange Slot. Figure C Bond trim to Moulding with TrimWelder Screws go up through bottom of Historic Sill into the Stealth Trim

23 Stealth Corner Installation Guidelines Stealth Corners can accept all siding products and work especially well with fiber cement and vinyl siding, including foamed back or insulated, as well as composite sidings and cedar shakes. Before installing the Stealth Corner, be sure the corner of the house is properly prepared to accept it. The corner of the building should be square, true and plumb, covered with a house wrap. There may be a need to flash in the pocket of the J to cover the printing of the house wrap that may be exposed if the siding is held back. This can be accomplished by taking some left over trim coil and bending a simple 5/8" x 1 1 /2" L the length of the corner and inserting it into the J pocket. In those rare cases where the house wrap is not used, flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or equal. The flashing should have two 10" lengths and be bent at a 90 degree angle. Cover the entire corner, lapping the top piece over the bottom piece. The flashing should extend 4" to 6" beyond the outside edges of the corner. The fastener must be long enough to penetrate the substrate a minimum of 1 1 /4". Place nails a maximum of 16" on center. (12" preferred) Install siding in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations. Stealth Corner Application Detail * Flashing is recommended for aesthetics but is not required if house wrap is used. Flashing should extend 4" beyond end of corner Corner of House Flashing rubber, plastic or aluminum TC 8"-10" on each side of corner Sealant Siding Before installing the corner, strike a line on the wall where your siding should terminate. If using fiber cement or a wood composite, caulk or paint the end cuts of the siding before it is installed. For other sidings, run a bead of sealant down the back side of both corner edges just outside the pocket. Fasten the corner the same way you would a standard Corner, being careful not to nail through the overhang that conceals your siding. Although this overhang piece is 1/4" thick, it may break if struck with a hammer. Place the top of the Stealth Corner 1/8" from the underside of the eave. Use stainless steel 8d annular or spiral fasteners designed for wood trim and siding. Fasteners with thin shanks, blunt points, and full round heads are preferred. 5/4" Stealth Corner Fasteners (See Technical Bulletin C-2 for Fastening Schedule) 44 45

24 STEALTH SKIRTBOARD Nominal 8" Skirtboard meets manufacturer's and LEED s recommended installation guidelines for grade applications using fiber cement and wood composite sidings. It is available in 4", 6", & 8" widths in nominal thickness 5 /4" and 8" & 10" widths in 1x nominal thickness. Stealth Skirtboard Installation at Grade of Fiber Cement or Composite Siding House wrap Stealth Skirtboard Installation Guidelines Flash around the base of the wall a minimum of 10 1 /2" up from the sill plate if a house wrap is not used. Fasten the Stealth Skirtboard the same way as Trimboard. Since the Skirtboard is so close to grade, stainless steel fasteners are recommended. Fiber cement or wood composite siding Flashing - 3" minimum above Skirtboard - asphalt roof felt, rubber, aluminum or PVC trim coil Maximum nail spacing 16" on center. Install fiber cement or wood composite siding over the Skirtboard in accordance with manufacturer's installation guidelines. 5/4" Stealth Corner Siding Siding kick-out leg Built-in drip edge 1/2" 7/8" 1X8 Skirtboard provides 6 3/8" (Min.) clearance between siding and grade 5 7/8" Stainless steel fasteners 1 1/2" penetration into framing member(s) Grade 1" Skirtboard Masonry Flashing not required if house wrap is used on walls

25 versatex Soffit System General Soffit System Installation If required by code, insect screen can be secured to the backside of the soffit panel using various construction adhesives or staples. assumes no responsibility for moisture infiltration. Take special care not to damage or break the cellular PVC slats between the vents. Avoid cutting through the vented areas. If unavoidable, take special precautions to protect slats. s Notched Fascia extends 1 /2" below the soffit, forming a natural drip edge. The vented soffit has an 8/4 repeating vent pattern that provides 10 square inches of free air space per lineal foot. Vents can be screened if required by code or to minimize insect infiltration. The Notched Fascia requires no flashing or cover. Notched Fascia and Frieze boards have a 9 /16" plowed pocket to accept 1 /2" soffit. Frieze Board Notched Fascia Vented Soffit At all Notched Fascia and Frieze/Rake board joints, use a shiplap joint. A shiplap is not only stronger, but also hides unsightly gaps in the trim. Before installing the Soffit System, make sure the ends of the rafter tails are aligned and in the same plane. Eave Application Step 1: Fit your Soffit panel to the overhang, making sure the outside edge of the soffit projects 7 /16" beyond the subfascia. Position the slotted vents toward the outside of the eave for optimal air flow. Step 2: Secure the soffit to the underside of the subfascia and to the framing member along the other edge of the soffit panel at the frieze. Fasteners should be 4d or 5d stainless steel nails or trim screws spaced 12" on center at all panel edges and at all intermediate supports. Reduce spacing to 6" on center if soffit is not supported by fascia and frieze. Step 3: recommends the use of a T mould at the butt joints between two soffit panels and at all mitered soffit corners. Step 4: Use a Standard Stealth Trimboard for the Frieze board, making sure the long flat edge of the trim butts tight against the soffit panel 48 49

26 with the siding pocket on the Stealth Trim at the bottom and against the exterior wall to accept siding. Step 5: Fasten the Frieze board to the wall studs with 8d stainless steel nails with annular threads and blunt points or trim screws spaced a maximum of 16" on center. Fastening Schedule Board Width Fasteners per width a maximum of every 16" on center 12" " 4-5 Step 6: Install the Notched Fascia board on top of the subfascia. Place a continuous bead of PVC TrimWelder adhesive into the plowed pocket on the Fascia board, aligning the pocket with the projecting edge of the Vented Soffit panel before fastening it to the face of the subfascia. To reduce linear movement in the fascia board, glue it to the subfascia with a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails Sub-Floor or Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. Step 7: The top edge of the fascia can be flashed with a piece of undersill trim or hidden behind a drip edge or other roof edge flashing. Be sure the edge angle on the soffit panel is cut to the same slope as the roof where two soffit panels abut. Rafters Ceiling Joist Roof Sheathing Edge Nailing Soffit System Installation Detail Project Fascia min 1" below subfascia Subfascia Board (min 2x) Venting to outside of eaves 1x Fascia Board 1/2" 1 1/2" 1/2" 2 1/2" 1/2" 5/8" Rafter Soffit 5/4" Stealth Trim with integral siding pocket Siding Tips when Installing Soffit System Soffit to lay flush against the framing member Miter soffit at corners rather than butting soffit at corners. Use a T mould at joints rather than sealants or adhesives. Make sure the soffit panel is fully engaged into the plowed slot on the Fascia and Frieze board. Building the soffit system on the ground and installing it as one piece is not recommended. The soffit overhang is not going to be a perfect 90 degree angle, so it is best the three components be installed individually so they properly conform to the walls of the building. Top Plates 1X8 Fascia If using beadboard for soffit, use 1" nominal beadboard products or thicker boards for spans of 16" to 24". Ledger Siding Structural Sheathing 5/4" Standard Stealth Trim Lookout Vented Soffit If using 1 /2" beadboard for soffit, orient it perpendicular to the joists. Fasten every 12" or less on center and apply construction adhesive to the underside of the rafters

27 Never span more than 24". Before installing beadboard, be sure the underside of the ceiling joists are true and level. You may want to place a 1 /2" or 7 /16" sheet of OSB or plywood on the underside of the ceiling joists to reduce or eliminate joist read-through. 1/2" X 6" Beadboard Soffit Drip Edge 6" Beadboard or 6" Stealth Beadboard Roof 1" Fascia Board Vented Soffit and Crown Moulding Drip Edge Vented Soffit 3" or 4" Crown Moulding 1" Fascia Board Roof Subfascia board (minimum 2") Siding Beadboard lays flush against framing member Siding 5/4" Stealth Trim Subfascia board (minimum 2") Soffit lays flush against framing member Venting to outside of eaves 5/4" Stealth Trim VersaWrap tm Installation Step 1: Ensure the structural post is sound, straight, and true. If necessary, install thin furring strips or shims to the structural column approximately 4" down from the top, middle and approximately 4" up from the bottom so that the wrap fits tightly around the structural column/post. Shim all four (4) sides evenly to maintain an equal spacing around the column/post. Be sure the furred/shimmed strips outside dimensions are no wider than the inside dimension of the VERSAWRAP column wrap. Step 2: Use an adhesive that offers enough cure/working time so it can be applied in the four joints and wrapped around the structural column/post before curing. PVC glues with solvent work well, provided you apply them quickly. Apply PVC glue by squirting it into the four joints using a plastic squeeze bottle with a thin, tapered nozzle applicator, like a ketchup bottle or a 5 ounce tube of Weld-On 705. PVC adhesives such as Weld-On 705, Christy s Red Hot or Trim Tight are a few recommended solvent-based PVC adhesives. PVC glue softens the joint of the VERSAWRAP, reducing cracking of the cellular PVC at the outside corners of the wrap. Remember to apply the adhesive to only one surface of the miter lock joints. NOTE: Four VERSAWRAPS can be glued using one 5 oz tube of Weld-On 705 independent of column length (no matter if you are gluing 8' 6" or 10' column wraps). Step 3: Once the glue is placed in the VERSAWRAP joints, immediately place it around the structural column or post, pushing the lockmiter joint together. Use a soft rubber mallet or dead blow hammer to close the lockmiter joint. If necessary, take a sanding block with 320 grit or a more abrasive sand paper and lightly sand the lockmiter joint to smooth out any rough spots

28 Step 4: Secure the VERSAWRAP column wrap to the structural column using stainless steel nails that penetrate through the furring strips. Remove the tape from the corners 4 hours after installation. Step 5: To remove the tape, lift it across the entire top before you start to pull it down the column. If you try to pull the tape down by starting at only one corner, the tape will split into thin slivers. When the tape is started evenly across its entire width and slowly pulled down the column wrap, it will pull off in one piece. Most PVC adhesives set in minutes, not hours, allowing you to remove the tape soon after the column has been installed. NOTE: Leaving the tape on the column wrap and exposed to the UV rays of the sun for more than 24 hours will make it difficult to remove and may leave adhesive residue on the column wrap. NOTE: There are two things to watch when removing the tape on a VERSAWRAP. First, it is critical that you start by pulling the ENTIRE piece of tape away from the top or bottom of the corner. Don t try to pull it off from only one side, or at an angle or with one hand. Secondly, pull the piece of tape straight down and don t try to pull it off too quickly. Again, use both hands. If the end of the board has been cut and the tape is embedded in the PVC wrap, be sure the entire width of tape has been started across the top before pulling it down. Step 6: Mild cleaners or a solvent can be used to remove any residual adhesive resulting from leaving the tape on the column wrap for an extended period of time. Use a hair dryer to help remove the tape at temperatures below 40 F. Step 7: If specified, install the Accent Wraps and moulding trims to complete the VERSAWRAP column wrap

29 VERSAWRAP 4" Crown Moulding IIII. Best Practices of typical construction detail Porch Ceiling with Beadboard (SHEets or boards) Ceiling joist with nailer(s) 5/8" 1/2" 1/2" 1/2" 1 1/2" 1/8" 2 1/2" Stealth "T" 4' X 8' or 4' X 10' Beaded sheet Face nail 12" OC joists Use Stealth "T" to cover expansion joint (leave gap between sheet and "T" Moulding for movement). Versawrap 4' X 8' or 4' X 10' Beaded Sheet Face nail 12" OC joists NOTE: ALLOW FOR 3/32" TO 1/8" MOVEMENT BETWEEN SHEETS AND 1/8" TO 3/16" MOVEMENT BETWEEN BEADBOARDS Scarf cut versus butt joint if not using "T" moulding Fasten no more than 2" from the edge of the board or sheet Ceiling joist with nailer (s) Base Cap Accent Wrap Bed Mould Support Spacing must not be used in load bearing applications, but it may be used in spanned applications such as soffits and ceilings. For Soffit/Ceiling Installation Sheet and Beadboard 1 /2" or thinner are not designed to be ripped and used for trim applications. These products must be glued and mechanically fastened to the substrate. Use 1" nominal beadboard products or thicker boards for spans of 16" to 24"

30 When using 1 /2" Beadboard or 1 /2" thick sheet, orient it perpendicular to the joists, fasten every 12" or less on center and apply construction adhesive to the underside of the rafters. Never span more than 24". Before installing Beadboard, be sure the underside of the ceiling joists are true and level. You may want to place a 1 /2" or 7 /16" sheet of OSB or plywood to the underside of the ceiling joists to reduce or eliminate joist read-through. Beadboard/ Beaded Sheet Step 1: Cut the beadboard to length by measuring the depth of the porch front to back at the end where you will start installing the beadboard. Subtract 1 /2" from this measurement to account for the 1 /4" gap you want to leave around the perimeter of the ceiling to allow the beadboard to expand. Step 2: Trim the first board before installing the first piece, calculate how many boards it will take to cover the ceiling. Divide the width of the porch ceiling by the width of the beadboard to get the number of whole boards needed to cover the ceiling. If the last board is less than 2", trim down the first and last board to make the ceiling look evenly spaced. Step 3: Trim the first board to width, cutting off the groove side of the beadboard, leaving the tongue-edge for nailing. Step 5: All beadboards, including the first one, should be nailed every 12" on center through the tongue or extended leg, in the case of Stealth Beadboard. Position the pneumatic gun at the back edge of the board s tongue, angle it away from the tongue and to one side. This will keep the nail from pulling out and blocking the tongue when you fit the groove of the next board over it. Slide the groove of the next board into the tongue of the previous board. If necessary, tap it tightly in place with a hammer and woodblock. Tip: Use a scrap of beadboard as your woodblock so you can fit the groove over the tongue and keep it from mushrooming when you hammer. Step 6: Finish installing beadboard over the ceiling. Trim the final board, if necessary, from the tongue side. Install one or more mouldings around the perimeter of the ceiling, making sure the mouldings cover the expansion gap. Step 7: For runs longer than 18', cut a bevel or shiplap joint into the end of the beadboard. Leave a 1 /8" gap when installing beadboard at temperatures below 40ºF. Consider a T moulding or faux beam as a means of hiding the butt ends of the beadboard. Step 8: Where possible, orient the beadboard in the direction that uses the shortest possible board length. As with any ceiling application, be sure any space above the ceiling is properly ventilated to prevent heat build up. Step 4: Face nail the first board, positioning it on the ceiling, groove side 1 /4" away from the wall. Using a pneumatic gun and 2" finish nails, face nail the beadboard to the plywood underlayment or ceiling joists every 12" on center. Position the nails 1 /2" to 3 /4" from the outer edge of the beadboard. Beaded sheet should be nailed 16" on center across the width and 12" on center around the perimeter

31 pergola Beam Fabrication (10' - 16' length) Moulding Installation Guidelines 10" 1" 1" 5/4" cut out to accept aluminum tubing Sandwich 1/8" thick X 1" wide X 3" (min.) deep aluminum tubing into slot routed into 5/4" X 10" boards. Glue in place with PVC TrimWelder. Use corrosion-resistant, smooth shank, screw, annular threaded or spiral type nails, at least 6d in size and long enough to penetrate at least 1 1 /2" into the substrate. Stainless steel fasteners are preferred over galvanized steel. If using a nail gun, adjust the length of the stroke, not the air pressure to control nail depth. If the temperature of the moulding is below 40ºF, pre-drilling is recommended to avoid cracking. If screws are preferred, use drywall or deck screws with a large thread or flute, long enough to penetrate substrate by at least 1". Slightly countersink screws and finish holes using an exterior spackling or sealant. Nails should be placed 12" on center and 3 /4" from each edge. All bonded surfaces must be smooth, clean, and in complete contact with each other. Use exterior-grade, PVC compatible, urethane-based adhesives for bonding mouldings to various substrates. Use solventbased PVC cement to bond the mouldings to each other. Stop routed channel short of decorative edges to hide aluminum tubing. NO REINFORCING REQUIRED FOR BEAM LESS THAN 10 IN LENGTH. Recommended sealants/adhesives include Solar Seal 900 from NPC and Liquid Nails Sub Floor and Heavy Duty Construction Adhesives. Use adhesive sealants in addition to mechanical fastening to secure the mouldings to the building frame whenever possible

32 Brick Moulding Installation Guidelines Measure top brick mould to overlap the jamb material by 1 /2". This will allow for a 1 /8" to 1 /4" reveal around the jamb. Cut a 45 angle on the brick mould ends, butt or angle joint middle seam if needed. Note: Reveal may vary depending on siding, siding J-channel, brick or block installation. Be sure the moulding pieces are fairly tight and with minimum gaps. Properly seal the moulding pieces to the brick. Use of Beadcap & Adams Casing with Beadboard Beadboard Cap 1 5/8" 3 1/4" When nailing, use 8d nails or 3" galvanized finishing nails, space nails 8" to 10" apart. Counter sink nails 1 /16" below the surface of the brick mould. Nails should penetrate the structural frame at least 1". To conceal nail holes, use a sealant or epoxy. Sealants such as Quad by OSI or NPC Solar Seal 900 sealants work well with cellular PVC products. If you prefer a harder, more durable surface, PVC TrimWelder is recommended. Nails can be placed as close as 3 /8" to the edge of the brick mould. For optimum fit, use Weld-On 705 white PVC adhesive or equal to bond the mitered corners of the brick mould. If you prefer to bond the brick mould to a wood substrate, we recommend Liquid Nails Sub Floor or Heavy Duty Construction adhesives. Seal around the brick mould where it meets the siding material. When installing a storm door or combination door be sure the brick mould is firmly attached before installing the combination door. 6" beadboard or 6" Stealth Beadboard* Base Cap Exterior Wall Quarter Round 1X Trimboard * This can be 1 /2" X 6" Beadboard, 1 /2" X 6" Stealth Beadboard, 1 /2" Beaded Sheet, 1 /2" X 4" Beadboard or 1 /2" X 4" Stealth Beadboard

33 Water Table Starter Custom Crown Moulding Piece CUSTOM CROWN MOULDING PIECE 5/4" X 6" 5/4" X 3" Water Table 2 3/4" 1/2" 3/4" 4" Crown 5/4" X 3" 2" Rams Crown 5/4" X 8" Trimboard Grade 64 65

34 Custom Moulding with Bed Mould and Panel Mould Custom Moulding with Rams Crown and Base Cap Bed Mould Rams Crown 5/8" X 4" Trimboard 5/8" X 4" Trimboard Panel Mould Base Cap 66 67

35 Sill and Brick Mould Window Application Window Glass Brick Mould IV. Frequently Asked Questions Does exterior trim require special code approval? No. However, is approved under its Code Compliance Research Report #CCRR-0149 from Architectural Testing. The report is applicable to all lengths and widths of trimboards, sheets, cornerboards, soffit, fascia, frieze, one-piece column wraps, Stealth Trim profiles, beaded products and moulding profiles. 1 /2" X 6" Beadboard also passed the stringent UL580 Wind Test for coastal ceiling applications. Does trim require painting? does not require painting to validate the warranty but, like any product, it will weather over time and may eventually need to be painted. Sill Moulding Heavy Sill Nose Sill Nose Does require a primer? A primer is only needed to receive the paint manufacturer s warranty. Excellent adhesion can be achieved by properly cleaning the board with a detergent or denatured alcohol before applying a top coat of paint to. What type of paint do you recommend for coating trim? 100% acrylic latex or 100% acrylic latex with a urethane additive should be used to achieve superior coating adhesion and flexibility. Lacquers are not recommended with because lacquers are a more brittle coating and will not flex with any movement in the trim. Paints like Duration by Sherwin Williams, Manor Hall by PPG and Moorlife by Benjamin Moore adhere well to. Paint companies might tell you that paint on will last three to five times longer than paints on wood or wood composites due to the absence of moisture in the substrate. Sherwin Williams also offers a field applied coating under their Green Seal product designation

36 Aqua Kem BP Enamel is a water reducible polyurethane, acrylic top coat that offers fast dry times and no critical recoat times. Due to its excellent adhesion properties, it is an ideal coating for cellular PVC. A primer is not recommended, but if you prefer to prime the trim, use Aqua Kem Bonding Primer E61W525, which also offers a field applied coating under their Green Seal product designation. What preparation steps should be followed before painting trim? Follow the paint manufacturer s preparation steps. To ensure good adhesion, the surface of the product should be clean, dry and free of dirt, mildew, chalk, grease and any other surface contaminants before applying paint. Keep in mind that cellular PVC may have a static charge on the surface of the product which tends to attract dust. Cleaning can be accomplished using a cloth and a mixture of a mild detergent (Spic n Span ) and water. Other cleaning agents include mild household cleaners, or degreasers for more stubborn stains. Prior to cleaning, it is a good practice to fill all nail holes and remove any marks or blemishes that appear during the installation process. Sanding the surface is an acceptable method of removing blemishes if painting. However, sanding the original exterior surface will expose the micro cell structure. Can trim be painted dark colors? Only light to medium colored paints with a light reflective value of 55 units or greater should be applied to. Using a paint with an LRV below 55 units will void our product warranty. Don t assume the paint is a light color. Too many times we have had cases where contractors believe the paint they used was a light beige only to find out it had an LRV in the 20 s or 30 s. Consult the paint manufacturer for the LRV of your paint. Can I paint over a dark color on my trim with a heat reflective coating? No. The dark color must be stripped off before applying a heat reflective paint. Are there any other options available to me? Possibly. Some companies like Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, AquaSurTech and Blue River Coatings have developed heat reflective paint systems. Consult these paint manufacturers to determine the available color pallet and the paint s compatibility with cellular PVC trim. Do I need to scuff the product? No. The gloss on is low enough that no mechanical form of surface preparation is required to assure good paint adhesion. How do I fasten or join PVC trim? As with wood, can be fastened or joined to itself or other substrates using nails, screws, PVC glues, quality polyurethane adhesives, and cyanoacrylates or super glues. A shiplap joint works best. Butt joints are not recommended. For more information on fastening, joining or gluing, please visit the Technical Bulletins, Section B of our website. What is the best fastening system for PVC trim that also hides the fastener heads? The best overall system for securing trim is the Cortex Concealed Fastening System. It combines the advantages of using a screw (strong connection) with the tapered plug that fits into the hole created by the screw, eliminating the need for fillers or sealants to fill the nail holes

37 What if I want to use a nail rather than a screw. What are my options for filling the nail holes? Extreme Adhesive PVC TrimWelder is a good but expensive nail hole filler. It is also an excellent adhesive. Its advantages over other nail hole fillers are: it creates a structural bond to, it becomes very hard once it has cured, and it remains a close color match to. However, it is a two-component product that has a working time of about 18 to 20 minutes and can shrink about 10%. This nail hole filler does not have to be painted for protection. Be sure to use a methyl methacrylate with a UV inhibitor. Other nail hole fillers that perform well but require painting are DAP s Crack Shot high performance paste, DAP Fast n Final Lightweight Spackling, Dyna Patch by Dynamic, and caulking like NPC Solar Seal #900 (Trimboard White 111) and Quad by OSI. Do you recommend nails or screws for fastening trim? We recommend screws over nails because screws help to limit thermal movement of the trim. However, if you do use nails, use a 7d or 8d, 12 gauge, 316 stainless steel nail with annular threads or a combination of annular threads and ring shank. Simpson Strong - Tie makes a couple of great nails for hanging, including their Trifecta Nail. Does require pre-drilling before fastening? Pre-drilling typically is not required unless large diameter fasteners are used (not recommended) or the product is installed or has been outside during low temperatures, typically below 40 F. Do you recommend gluing a PVC trim fascia board to the wooden subfascia? We do. It is just one more step in minimizing or reducing thermal movement in the trim. Products for gluing to wood include Liquid Nails Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive, Liquid Nails Sub-Floor Adhesive, and even NPC Solar Seal 900. Do you recommend all joints be glued or should we leave a caulked joint(s) to allow for product movement? We recommend the highly visible joints be glued and other joints act as expansion joints with a backer rod and sealant (preferably NPC Solar Seal 900). A common method used by some contractors is shiplapping the edges of the boards on long runs. This allows for product movement while never exposing the substrate or house wrap. It also increases the surface area of the joint should you decide to glue it. What is the best glue for joining two pieces of trim? What is the best glue for bonding PVC trim to wood? To metal? We recommend a PVC pipe glue with solvent for bonding the ends of boards to themselves (Weld-On 705 by IPS, Trim Tight by Trim Glue, Inc. or Christy s Red Hot White Vinyl Adhesive) or better yet Extreme Adhesive PVC TrimWelder whenever you are bonding a shiplap, scarf or miter cut (window surround) or even sheets of. For bonding to wood, we recommend Liquid Nails Sub-Floor Adhesive or Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. For to metal, we suggest Extreme Adhesive PVC TrimWelder. There are three types of Extreme Adhesive PVC TrimWelder: Slow Cure and Fast Cure, both used for field joints and small glue ups, and Laminating Grade, used for sheet glue ups. Slow Cure should not be used at temperatures below 40 F. How do you recommend trim be secured to masonry? We recommend the masonry be troweled with an adhesive first to provide a level/plumb surface to accept the board/sheet and the trim secured with Tapcon masonry fasteners. Can I use just glue or do I have to use glue in combination with fasteners? You should use a combination of glue and mechanical fasteners. The glue is not enough to insure a long term bond