How To Build An. Attic Ladder. ALL DAY FENCING construction guide. Complies with the Timber Framing Code of NSW and the Building Code of Australia

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1 How To Build An Attic Ladder ALL DAY FENCING construction guide. Complies with the Timber Framing Code of NSW and the Building Code of Australia

2 CONSTRUCTION GUIDES How To Build An Attic Ladder Need more storage area in your home? Look no further than the attic for your solution. The addition of an attic ladder can add a whole new level to your home for very little cost! Lets get started, Materials required; Timber Treated Pine can be ordered raw or primed ready for painting. You must specify which type you require at the time of ordering. For this exercise we are using treated and primed timber. Pre-primed timber saves time and money and makes your project quicker! Before you can order the timber a measurement must be taken from floor to ceiling. The ceiling heights can vary from home to home and this must be taken into account when ordering timber. For this project we are using 166mm x 44mm primed TP for the stair rails and treads. 2 lengths will be needed that are 1 metre longer than the floor to ceiling measurement. The frame is to be made from 100mm x 50mm TP and 44 x 18mm. The length of the frame is equal to half the floor to ceiling height, plus 300mm. The width is adjustable depending on your requirements. 750mm wide is recommended to fit in the average hallway. Apart from the frame and stair, a customwood or plywood cover is required. Hardware 7 metres of 8mm sash cord and counterweight to suit the attic door. (This may be a matter of trial and error until the right weight for your sized stair is obtained). PVC glue (liquid nails or similar) 75mm x 6mm galvanised screws treads and rails 50mm x 6mm galvanised screws frame 1 pair 200mm t hinges 1 pair 200mm strap hinges 1 100mm pulley and bolt CONSTRUCTION GUIDES

3 Step 1 Setting Out. Clear the work area and lay protective sheets on the floor. Measure the height from the floor to the ceiling. Half this measurement and add 300mm. This is the length of your cutout on the ceiling. Start by making a small hole through the ceiling sheets using the end of a blunt handsaw or holesaw. Find a ceiling joist and mark the edge of the joist on the ceiling. Choose the width of your stair and mark a square on the ceiling starting from the edge of the joist. (This will minimize the number of ceiling joists that have to be cut). *SAFETY FIRST be sure to check for electrical wires or pipes above the ceiling before cutting. CONSTRUCTION GUIDES Step 2 Ceiling framework Using a handsaw, gently cut out the ceiling panel to reveal the ceiling joists. The joists need to be cut 50mm wider than the hole cut through the ceiling. This is to allow a beam 50mm thick to be fixed along the sides of the opening. Measure the length between the end (uncut) ceiling joists and cut two 100 x 50mm beams. Fix in position using two 75mm nails skewed at each end and nail to the cut ends of ceiling joists. Using 40mm galvanised clouts, re- nail the edge of the ceiling sheet up to the beam at 200mm spacings.

4 Step 3 Attic Ladder Frame Measure the opening size of the hole in the ceiling. Cut two lengths of 100 x 50mm timber to fit the width first then measure, cut and nail the sides in position. The sides should be cut 3mm longer than the measurement to help force the opening tight and straight. Nail the attic ladder frame to the ceiling frame with galvanised 75mm nails. Punch and putty nail holes. Step 4 Building the Ladder The sides have to be rebated to a depth of 15mm to take the treads as shown in the diagram above. The length of the sides is calculated by measuring from the bottom of the ceiling to the top of the floor at an angle of 60 degrees. Mark this measurement along one edge of a piece of 160 x 44mm. We will call this the bottom edge. Mark a square line across one end and a 60 degree angle at the other. Be careful to mark the angle in the right direction. (see diagram below). Cut this side with a sharp handsaw, and use it as a template to set out the other side. Once the two sides are cut, place them bottom edge together on a pair of sawstools and set out the treads as shown below.

5 Divide the length of the side into even steps (approx 375 to 425mm per step), then using an off cut mark the width of each tread. Use a handsaw and sharp chisel to cut the rebates. Cut the treads allowing the stair to have at least 30mm clearance on each side. Eg; if the opening between the frame is 800mm, cut the stair so it measures only 740mm wide. The tread will be 740mm less than the thickness of the side beam left after the rebate has been cut. Once all the treads have been cut you can assemble the stair section. Fix the treads into the rebates, glue with PVC woodworking glue and screw with 2, 60mm x 4mm screws in the side of each tread. The stair can now be cut in half and strap hinges fixed to the bottom edge of each side. Use large 200mm strap hinges firmly secured with 6 gauge 40mm wood screws. The T hinges can be fitted to fix the top of the ladder to the frame.

6 CONSTRUCTION GUIDES Cut and fix a sheet of plywood to the bottom of the attic ladder that s fits neatly into the opening of the frame. Using the 40mm x 18mm TP run a bead around the frame for the lid to close to, (see above) Step 5 Install the counter weight and pulley The counterweight can be made from anything heavy enough to counterbalance the weight of the ladder when closed, and weak enough to allow it to stay open when down. This may take some experimentation depending on the weight of your ladder. Fix the pulley through a roof rafter above the opening and use the sash cord to connect to the stair. Two pulleys (one on either side) may be required. Happy Building!! CONSTRUCTION GUIDES SAFETY FIRST SAFETY FIRST SAFETY FIRST SAFETY FIRST SAFETY FIR Workplace safety starts with you! Below is a list of suggestions designed to comply with the workplace safety act and the relevant parts should be applied. All Day Fencing take no legal responsibility for injury or damage caused by the use of this manual. Barricade or fence off the work area. All excavated holes should be covered outside of work hours Use earmuffs, safety glasses and dust masks where required Always wear suitable clothing and safety footwear Do not allow children inside the work area Safety signs should be erected where the project meets public land, eg; fence work. For more information on workplace safety visit the workplace website at

Pergola. How To Build A. ***Safety First*** Please read the section on workplace safety at the end of this manual before proceeding with any work.

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